vv.  fit      *******  jl.. 


PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


Purchased  by  the  Hammill  Missionary  Fund. 


i)TM:\ 


Division 
Section 
Number  


Digitized  by 

the  Internet  Archive 

in  2015 

https://archive.org/details/howifoundlivingsOOstan_0 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


HOW  I  FOUND 


LIVING- STONE 


TRAVELS,  ADVENTURES.  AND  DISCOVERIES  IN 
CENTRAL  AFRICA 


INCLUDING  AN  ACCOUNT  OF 

FOUR  MONTHS'  RESIDENCE  WITH  DR.  LIVINGSTONE 


BY 

HENRY  M.  'STANLEY 


WITH  MAPS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS  AFTER  DRAWINGS  BY 
THE  AUTHOR 


NEW  YORK 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 
1891 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  In  the  year  18*4  bv 
SOK1BNER,  ARMSTRONG  4  CO., 
AU  me  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


JAMES  GORDON  BENNETT,  ESQ. 

(PBOPBIETOB  OF  THE  "NEW  YORK  HERALD,'' J! 

THIS  RECORD  OF 

THE  EXPEDITION  SENT  IN  SEARCH  OF  DOCTOR  TJVTNGSTONE. 

AND  OF 

TRAVELS,  ADVENTURES,  AND  DISCOVERIES  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA, 
AS  A  TRIBUTE 

K)  THE  GENEROSITY  AND  THE  LIBERALITY  WHICH  ORIGINATED.  SUSTAINED 
AND  CROWNED  THE  ENTERPRISE, 

BY  HIS  GRATEFUL  SPECIAL  CORRESPONDENT, 

HENRY  M.  STANLEY, 

LATE  COMMANDER  "  NEW  YORK  HERALD"  EXPEDITION 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  L 
ZANZIBAR. 

Arrival  at  Zanzibar — Eeception  by  Captain  Webb,  U.S.  Consul — 
Life  at  Zanzibar — System  of  Trade  with  the  Interior — The  town 
of  Zanzibar — Population — Introduction  to  Dr.  Kirk — Bishop 
Tozer  .        .        .        .     '  .        .        .        .       Pages  1  to  20 


CHAPTER  II. 

ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 

Difficulty  of  obtaining  information — Engagement  of  J.  W.  Shaw 
and  W.  L.  Farquhar — Mbarak  Bombay — Visit  to  the  Sultan's 
Palace — Embarkation  for  Bagamoyo — Courtesy  and  Character 
of  the  Sultan  Pages  21  to  10 


CHAPTER  IIL 

BAGAMOYO. 

Arrival  at  Bagamoyo — Hospitality  of  the  Jesuit  Mission — Life 
at  Bagamoyo — Ali  bin  Salim — Dishonest  Prowlers — Donkey 
stolen — Packing  the  Bales — Difficulty  in  procuring  Pagazis — 
Cost  of  Carriage  and  Goods — Soor  Hadji  Palloo — His  pecca- 
dilloes— Visit  to  the  Livingstone  Caravan — Arrival  at  Bagamoyo 
of  Dr.  Kirk — Climate  of  Bagamoyo — Departure  of  the  Five 
Caravans      .......      Pages  41  to  68 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THROUGH  UKWERE,  UKAMI,  AND  UDOE,  TO  USEGUHHA- 

Arrival  at  first  Camp,  "  Shamba  Gonera " — The  Valley  of  the 
Kingani — Building  Bridge  across  the  Kingani — The  crossing — 
Peppering  Hippopotami — Arrival  at  Kikoka — Route  never 
travelled  by  a  White  Man — Rosako,  the  Frontier  Village  of 
Ukwere — Impertinent  Curiosity  of  the  Wagogo — My  Watch- 
dog "Omar  "—The  Insect  Tribe  — The  Tsetse  Fly— The 
Chufwa  Fly :  its  voracity — Commencement  of  the  Masika,  or 
Rainy  Season — Death  of  Arab  Horse — Interview  with  Chief  of 
Kingaru  — Death  of  Bay  Horse — March  to  Imbiki — Arrival  at 
Msuwa — Jungle  troubles — Chained  Slave-gang — Kisemo — The 
Belles  of  Kisemo — Desertion  of  Khamesi :  his  punishment — 
Crossing  the  Ungerengeri — The  Capital,  Useguhha  Simba- 
mwenni — The  Sultana — Stormy  Dispute  with  Shaw — African 
Ague — Visit  from  the  Sultana         .        .        .      Pages  69  to  12C 

CHAPTER  V. 

TO  UGOGO. 

The  Rainy  Season — Innumerable  Hosts  of  Creeping  Things — Cross- 
ing the  Ungerengeri — The  Flogging  of  Bunder  Salaam :  he  is 
Lost :  his  Discovery — Soldiers  imprisoned  by  the  Sultana — The 
Makata  Wilderness — Desertion  and  Capture  of  Soldier — Terri- 
ble Difficulties  in  crossing  the  Makata  Swamp — Encampment 
at  Usagara — Shaw's  Letter  to  Farquhar — Farquhar's  Reply — 
His  extravagant  Expenditure  —  Shaw's  Dilatoriness  —  Novel 
mode  of  using  a  Cart — Lake  Ugombo — Shaw  and  Farquhar  at 
Breakfast — Shaw  "measures  his  length"  on  the  ground — 
Asks  for  his  Discharge — He  Repents — A  Shot  fired  through  my 
Tent — Farquhar  left  behind  at  Mpwapwa — Abdullah  bin 
Nasib — Scenery  of  Mpwapwa        .        .        .      Pages  121  to  170 

CHAPTER  VI. 

THROUGH  MAREXGA  MKALI,  UGOGO,  UYANZ1,  TO  UXYAXYEMBE. 

Arrival  at  Chunyo — Bitter  Water — Marenga  Mkali — No  Water 
for  Thirty-six  Hours — A  Dangerous  Fever  attack — Arrival 


CONTENTS. 


at  Ugogo — Furious  Mob — Plentiful  Supplies  at  Mvumi — 
Tribute  to  the  Great  Sultan — The  Sultan  of  Matamburu — 
March  to  Bihawana — "Whipping  the  Wagogo — Visit  from  the 
Sultan  of  Mizanza — The  Wahumba  a  fine  Eace — Arrival  at 
Mukonduku — Departure — Counsel  with  Arabs  as  to  Eoute — 
Dispute  and  Separation  from  them — They  follow — Ugogo 
proves  to  be  a  Land  of  Gall  and  Bitterness — Arrival  at  Kiti — 
Sultan  bin  Mohammed — Halt  at  Kusuri — Thief  shot — Mud- 
fsh — Rubuga  iD  Bui:is — Amir  bin  fSultai — Crossing  tho  Mtcni 
— Arri?al  in  Unyanyembe   •        .       •       •      Pages  171  to  222 

CHAPTEE  VII. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS. 

Pages  223  to  257 

CHAPTEE  VIII. 

LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 

Hospitality  of  the  Governor,  Sayd  bin  Salim — Comfortable 
Quarters — Tabora,  the  principal  Arab  Settlement — Mirambo, 
Chief  of  Uyoweh — His  Depredations — A  Council  of  War — The 
Livingstone  Caravan  found — Terrible  attack  of  Fever — March 
for  Ujiji — Arrival  at  Masangi — Shaw  taken  111 — Join  the  Arab 
Army  at  Mfuto — Fight  with  Mirambo — Capture  of  the  Village 
of  Zimbizo — Fever  again — Defeat  and  great  Slaughter  of  the 
Arabs  by  Mirambo— Eetreat  to  Mfuto     .        .      Pages  258  to  286 

CHAPTEE  IX. 

LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 

The  Arabs  Eetreat  to  Tabora — I  proceed — Arrival  at  Kwihara — 
Try  another  Eoute — My  Position  most  Serious — Death  of 
Farquhar  reported — Defeat  of  the  Arabs  at  Tabora — Khamis 
bin  Abdullah  slain — Tabora  in  Flames — Preparations  for 
Defence — The  Philosopher  Sheikh  bin  Nasib — I  determine  to 
lead  a  Flying  Caravan  to  Ujiij — Death  of  Baruti — Men  dis- 
pirited—  The  little  Boy  Kalulu  —  His  baptism  —  Mirambo 
attacks  Mfuto,  and  is  defeated — Selim  Delirious  from  constant 
Fevers — Two  Guides,  Asmani  and  Mabruki — My  Eesolution  to 
find  Livingstone  Pages  287  to  309 


I 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  X. 

TO  MRERA,  UKONONGO. 

Start  from  Kwihara — Bombay  gets  a  Thrashing — Shaw  wishes  to 
stay  behind — I  compel  him  to  go  on — Another  Fever  attack 
— Livingstone's  Letter-carrier  missing — Arrival  at  Kasegera — 
Shaw  gives  in,  and  is  sent  back  to  Kwihara, — The  splendid 
Forests  of  Unyamwezi — We  reach  Ugunda — The  Mukungnru — 
Description  of  this  Fever — A  magnificent  Sycamore — A  Victim 
to  Small-pox — Numerous  Skeletons  found  on  the  Road-side — 
Arrival  at  Manyara — Dispute  as  to  Tribute  with  the  Sultan — 
Visit  from  him — A  Dose  of  Concentrated  Ammonia — The 
Sultan's  Astonishment — The  Hunter's  Paradise — My  first  Game, 
an  Antelope  shot — Zebra-stalking — Adventure  with  a  Croco- 
dile— Two  Days'  Hunting — Mutiny — Asmani  and  Mabruki 
present  their  Guns  at  me — Peace  restored — Bombay  Thrashed 
again,  and  put  in  Chains — Characters  of  the  Principal  Men — 
Arrival  at  Ziwani  —  The  Honey-Bird  —  Utende  —  Mwaru — 
Arrival  at  Mrera — Shoe-mending  .        .        .      Pages  310  to  360 

CHAPTER  XI. 
THROUGH  UKAWENDL,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJL 

Departure  from  Mrera — Camp  in  the  Jungle — I  sink  to  my 
Neck  in  the  Ooze  of  the  Rungwa — The  Mpokwa  River — The 
Home  of  the  Lion  first  seen — A  Troop  of  Monkeys — Adventure 
with  a  huge  Wild  Boar — Followed  by  a  Lion — A  Day  of  great 
Troubles — A  Buffalo  shot — A  Leopard — Buffalo-stalking — 
Famine  stares  us  in  the  face — Welled  Nzogera's — Food  plentiful 
— A  Donkey  sinks  in  the  Morass — Embassy  to  Chief  Kiala — 
Seven  Hours  of  Talk — On  the  Banks  of  the  Malagarazi — Our 
Donkey  "  Simba  "  seized  and  carried  away  by  a  Crocodile — 
News  of  Livingstone! — Halt  at  Kawanga — Disputes  about 
Tribute — Exorbitant  Demands — We  cross  the  Pombwe  and 
the  Kanengi  Rivers — A  Midnight  March  through  the  Jungle — 
A  Crazy  Woman  almost  betrays  us  by  yelling — Thunder  from 
the  Tanganika — On  the  Banks  of  the  Rugufu — Niamtaga — 
The  Tanganika!  Hurrah!  Unfurl  the  Flags !— Susi,  Dr.  Living- 
stone's Servant,  says,  "  Good-morning,  Sir !" — "  Dr.  Living- 
stone, I  presume  ?"  "  Yes  I" — Conversation  with  the  Doctor 
—Good-night  Pages  361  to  419 


CONTENTS. 


xi 


CHAPTER  XII. 

INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE  AT  UJIJI. 

Summary  from  my  Note-book  of  Livingstone's  Travels 

Pages  420  to  474 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANGANIKA. 

Our  Ship,  a  cranky  Canoe — Enormous  Dog-nosed  Monkey — 
The  Fishermen  of  the  Tanganika — The  Zassi  River  and 
Village — Soundings  of  the  Lake — Nyabigma  Island — Disturbed 
at  Supper — Hostility  of  the  Natives — War  between  Mukamba 
and  Warumashanya — A  Mgwana  asserts  that  the  Rusizi  flows  out 
of  the  Lake — I  am  struck  down  by  Fever — Nursed  by  the 
Doctor — The  Mgwana's  Report  contradicted  by  Mukamba — 
Swarms  of  Crocodiles — Ruhinga's  Information — The  Head  of 
the  Lake  and  the  Mouth  of  the  Rusizi — The  Question,  Was  the 
Rusizi  an  Effluent  or  Influent,  answered  for  ever — The  Doctor 
still  believes  in  an  Outlet — Burton  and  Speke's  Extreme  Point 
— Signs  of  Disturbance  in  Mruta's  Village — "  New  York  Herald 
Islets  " — Cape  Luvumba — A  Fight  about  to  Commence — The 
Sultan  Pacified — A  serio-comic  Scene — Return  to  Ujiji 

Pages  475  to  515 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS. 

Pages  516  to  557 

CHAPTER  XV. 
OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE. 

Chat  with  Livingstone  over  the  Incidents  of  the  "  Pic-nic  " — The 
Doctor  declines  to  return  Home  until  his  Work  is  done — 
"R3mpg  "Ki^Mhr  pspflfoff  MtH  R1ftYegi  and  commanding 
them  to  bring  him  back — Recovery  of  his  Enfield  Rifles — The 
Doctor  resolves  to  accompany  me  to  Unyanyembe — Attack  of 
Remittent  Fever — How  we  spent  Christmas-day— Departure 
from  Ujiji — Our  Voyage  down  the  Tanganika — Arrival  at,  and 
crossing  the  Liuche — Crossing  the  Malagarazi — No  Current  in 
the  Tanganika  —  Arrival  at  Urimba  —  Zebra-shooting — The 
Valley  of  Loajeri — Buffalo  Cow  shot — Confronting  an  Elephant 
— Travellers'  Tales — Red-bearded  Monkeys — Magdala  sighted 


xii 


CONTENTS. 


—The  Valley  of  Imrera— The  Doctor  foot-sore— Herds  of 
Game  in  Mpokwa  Plain — Two  Zebras  shot— A  Herd  of  Giraffe 
— Giraffe  wounded  —  Ibrahim's  Slave  Ulimengo  absconds — 
Latitude  of  Mpokwa — Zinc  Canteens  converted  into  Bullets — 
Giraffe  brought  down  therewith — Start  for  Misonghi — The 
Doctor  dreadfully  Stung  by  "Wild  Bees — Mirambo  famished — 
Death  of  Shaw — Incidents  in  the  Career  and  Death  of  Eobert 
Livingstone — A  Lion  in  the  Grass — A  Triplet  of  Lions — 
Arrival  at  Ugunda — Capture  of  tho  Deserter,  Hamdallah— 
Arrival  at  Unyanyembe       ,  Paget!  558  to  607 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

HOMEWARD  BOUND. 

Livingstone's  Stores  opened — Found  to  be  a  Delusion — Asmani 
found  Guilty — White  Ants  consuming  the  Brandy  and  replac- 
ing the  Corks ! — The  Goods  turned  over  to  Dr.  Livingstone — 
He  writes  his  Letters  home — His  Letter  to  James  G.  Bennett 
— Native  Song — Last  Night  with  Livingstone — His  Journal 
sealed  up — Our  final  Departure — Farewell — Halt  at  Tura — 
Letters  from  the  Doctor — Arrival  at  Kiwyeh — Wagogo  "War 
Horns  sounding  everywhere — Full  Fighting  Costume — A  false 
Alarm— Khonze  Chief  resists  our  Advance — Preparation  for  a 
Fight — Mnyamwezi  seized  by  the  Throat,  and  Peace  restored — 
Arrival  at  Kanyenyi— Visit  from  the  Sultan — The  Village  of 
Mapanga — Sudden  Bush  of  Armed  Natives — Forty  Spears 
against  Forty  Guns — Tribute  Demanded  and  Paid — Leucole's 
Account  of  Farquhar's  Death — The  Valley  of  the  Mukondokwa 
— Privation  from  the  Masika — Awful  Floods — Fighting  Swarms 
of  Mosquitoes — The  Doctor's  Despatch-Box  in  Jeopardy — 
Dragged  through  the  River  by  Ropes — Arrival  at  Simba- 
mwenni  —The  Wall  swept  away — Terrific  Storm — Destruction 
of  One  Hundred  Villages — The  Msunva  Jungle — Its  Horrors — 
"Hot- water  "  Ants — News  from  Zanzibar — Arrival  at  Bagamoyo 
— The  meeting  with  the  Livingstone  Search  and  Relief  Expe- 
dition Pages  608  to  657 

CHAPTER  XVIL 
VALEDICTORY   Pages  658  to  692 


APPENDIX 


Pages  693  to  719 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


^nil-page  Illustrates. 


1.  Portrait  of  James  Gordon  Bennett,  Esq.       to  face  Introduction. 

2.  A  view  of  Zanzibar     .....  to  face  page  3 

3.  A  view  of  Bagamoyo                   •  , ,  41 

4.  SlMBAMWENNI — "  THE  LlON  ClTY  "    ...  115 

5.  Discomforts  of  African  travel— The  Makata 

Swamp   135 

6.  Shaw's  mode  of  marching     ....  , ,  152 

7.  The  Lake  and  Peak  of  Ugdmbo     ...  , ,  154 

8.  Mount  Kibwe,  and  the  Valley  of  the  Mukon- 

dokwa  Piter   ......  , ,  245 

9.  We  attack  Mirambo   , ,  280 

10.  View  of  Kwihara   , ,  310 

11.  Ma-man  vara  takes  medicine        ...  , ,  334 

12.  The  mutiny  on  the  Gombe  River         .       .  , ,  345 

13.  Selim,  the  Interpreter        ....  , ,  352 

14.  The  wounded  boar  comes  to  a  halt       .       .  , ,  371 

15.  "  Dr.  Livingstone,  I  presume?"      ...  ,,  412 

16.  Our  levee  at  Magala,  Urundi     ...  , ,  494 

17.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Rcsizi  ...  , ,  504 
18  ) 

'  IPot-fourri — arms,  implements,  and  pipes       .  at  pages  544  and  545 

19.  J 

20.  Dr.  Livingstone  at  work  on  his  journal       .  to  face  page  563 

21.  On  Lake  Tanganika— homeward  bound         .  567 

22.  "  He  is  shot  !    He  is  shot  !" — shooting  a  buf- 

falo cow .......  9t  577 

23.  A  surprise   , ,  580 

24.  A  lion  in  the  grass     .....  . ,  602 

25.  My  house  in  Kwihara,  Unyanyembb     .       .  ? ,  612 

26.  The  Wagogo  on  the  war  path      ...  , ,  632 

27.  Symptoms  of  a  fight   , ,  636 

28.  11  Look  out  1  You  drop  that  box — I'll  shoot 

you"   642 

Jsmnlkr  fllustr aliens. 

1.  View  of  Bagamoyo          ...•»••  41 

2.  Portrait  of  Bombay  and  Mabruki  69 

3.  Woman  grinding  corn     ...,».,  106 


siv 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS, 


PAGE 


4.  Portrait  of  Shaw  and  Farquhar     .....  121 

5.  Our  camp  at  Chunyo   171 

6.  Mgogo  man  and  woman   223 

7.  a  gate  of  a  village  239 

8.  Weapons  of  war   242 

9.  Youthful  Wasagara   248 

10.  Bird's-eye  view  of  a  tembe      „   253 

11.  View  in  front  of  my  tembe   258 

12.  Group  of  Wanyamwezi   287 

13.  Gigantic  sycamore  and  camp   328 

14.  View  in  Uvinza   361 

15.  Village  in  Uzavira — native  pottery      ....  367 

16.  Our  house  in  Ujiji   420 

17.  View  on  Lake  Tanganika        ......  475 

18.  susi,  the  servant  of  livingstone     .....  499 

19.  Ujiji  cow,  Unyamwezi  cow,  pariah  dog,  and  fat-tailed  sheep  516 

20.  The  fishes  of  the  Tanganika   532 

21.  An  idol   552 

22.  Daggers  and  spear-heads   556 

23.  Our  camp  at  Urimba   558 

24.  Making  the  most  of  a  halt     ......  609 

25.  The  Memorial   719 


Slaps. 

Map  of  Eastern  Central  Africa — Frontispiece. 
Plan  of  Central  Unyanyembe  to  face  page  259. 
Plan  of  water  system  in  page  229. 

Sketch  map  of  Livingstone's  discoveries  to  face  page  449. 
Survey  of  northern  half  of  Tanganika  to  face  page  475. 
Small  sketch  map  of  Livingstone's  discoveries  to  face  page  1. 


EBKATA. 


Fa^e  line 

29  et  passim,  line  25,  &c. 

41  plate  

62, 63  passim  .  .  .  , 
137  et  passim,  line  13,  &c 


for  read 

Syed   Seyd. 

Bagomoyo   Bagamoyo. 

O'Reilly   Reilly. 

Sarmian     .        ...  Sarmean. 


142    29    .    .    baughy   banghy. 

166    19  quahary   KwaherL 

171  10  (col.  1)     ....    Manieka   Munieka. 

237   20    representations    .    .    .  representatives, 

245  plate   Mukandokvro,  ....  Mukondokwa. 

259    23   Xghema   Ngema. 

330    18   stamped   tamped. 

341    33   O'Reilly   Reilly. 

370   33   its   his 

383   26   beasts   reptiles. 

391     6   has  not  spoken     .    .    .  has  spoken. 

408     3  •   insert  "  of  "  at  beginning  of  line. 


JAMES    GORDON    BENNETT,  ESQ. 

Proprietor  of  the  "New  York  Herald." 


INTRODUCTORY, 


On"  the  sixteenth  day  of  October,  in  the  year  of  our 
Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty-nine,  I  am  in 
Madrid,  fresh  from  the  carnage  at  Valencia.  At  10  a.m. 
Jacopo,  at  No.  —  Calle  de  la  Cruz,  hands  me  a  telegram  : 
on  opening  it  I  find  it  reads,  "  Come  to  Paris  on 
important  business."  The  telegram  is  from  Jas.  Gordon 
Bennett,  jun.,  the  young  manager  of  the  "  New  York 
Herald." 

Down  come  my  pictures  from  the  walls  of  my  apart- 
ments on  the  second  floor ;  into  my  trunks  go  my 
books  and  souvenirs,  my  clothes  are  hastily  collected, 
some  half  washed,  some  from  the  clothes-line  half  dry, 
and  after  a  couple  of  hours  of  hasty  hard  work  my 
portmanteaus  are  strapped  up,  and  labelled  for  "  Paris." 

The  express-train  leaves  Madrid  for  Hendaye  at 
3  p.m.  I  have  yet  time  to  say  farewell  to  my  friends. 
I  have  one  at  No.  6  Calle  Goya,  fourth  floor,  who 
happens  to  be  a  contributor  to  several  London  dailies. 
He  has  several  children,  in  whom  I  have  taken  a  warm 


in 


IN  Til  OD  UC  TOR  7. 


interest.  Little  Charlie  and  Willie  are  fast  friends  of 
mine ;  they  love  to  hear  of  my  adventures,  and  it  has 
been  a  pleasure  to  me  to  talk  to  them.  But  now  I 
must  say  farewell. 

Then  I  have  friends  at  the  United  States  Legation 
whose  conversation  I  admire — there  has  come  a  sudden 
ending  of  it  all.  "  I  hope  you  will  write  to  us,  we 
shall  always  be  glad  to  hear  of  your  welfare."  How 
often  have  I  not  during  my  feverish  life  as  a  flying 
journalist  heard  the  very  same  words,  and  how  often 
have  I  not  suffered  the  same  pang  at  parting  from 
friends  just  as  warm  as  these. 

But  a  journalist  in  my  position  must  needs  suffer. 
Like  a  gladiator  in  the  arena,  he  must  be  prepared  foi 
the  combat.  Any  flinching,  any  cowardice,  and  he  is 
lost.  The  gladiator  meets  the  sword  that  is  sharpened 
for  his  bosom — the  flying  journalist  or  roving  corre- 
spondent meets  the  command  that  may  send  him  to 
his  doom.  To  the  battle  or  the  banquet  it  is  ever  the 
same — "  Get  ready  and  go." 

At  3  p.m.  I  was  on  my  way,  and  being  obliged  to 
stop  at  Bayonne  a  few  hours,  did  not  arrive  at  Paris 
until  the  following  night.  I  went  straight  to  the 
"  Grand  Hotel,"  and  knocked  at  the  door  of  Mr, 
Bennett's  room. 

"  Come  in,"  I  heard  a  voice  say. 

Entering,  I  found  Mr.  Bennett  in  bed. 

"  Who  are  you  ?"  he  asked. 

"  My  name  is  Stanley  I"  I  answered. 


INTRODUCTORY.  xvil 

"  Ah,  yes !  sit  down ;  I  have  important  business  on 
hand  for  you." 

After  throwing  over  his  shoulders  his  robe-de-chambret 
Mr.  Bennett  asked,  "  Where  do  you  think  Living- 
stone is  ?" 

"  I  really  do  not  know,  sir  !" 

"  Do  you  think  he  is  alive  ?" 

"  He  may  be,  and  he  may  not  be  !"  I  answered. 

"  Well,  I  think  he  is  alive,  and  that  he  can  be  found, 
and  I  am  going  to  send  you  to  find  him." 

M  What !"  said  I,  "  do  you  really  think  I  can  find  Dr. 
Livingstone  ?  Do  you  mean  me  to  go  to  Central  Africa  ?" 

"  Yes ;  I  mean  that  you  shall  go,  and  find  him 
wherever  you  may  hear  that  he  is,  and  to  get  what 
news  you  can  of  him,  and  perhaps" — delivering  himself 
thoughtfully  and  deliberately — "the  old  man  may  be  in 
want  : — take  enough  with  you  to  help  him  should  he 
require  it.  Of  course  you  will  act  according  to  your 
own  plans,  and  do  what  you  think  best — but  find 
Livingstone  ! 

Said  I,  wondering  at  the  cool  order  of  sending  one 
to  Central  Africa  to  search  for  a  man  whom  I,  in 
common  with  almost  all  other  men,  believed  to  be  dead, 
u  have  you  considered  seriously  the  great  expense  you 
are  likely  to  incur  on  account  of  this  little  journey  ?" 

"  What  will  it  cost  ?"  he  asked,  abruptly. 

"  Burton  and  Speke's  journey  to  Central  Africa  cost 
between  £3,000  and  £5,000,  and  I  fear  it  cannot  be 
done  under  £2,500." 


xviii 


INTRODUCTORY. 


"  Well,  I  will  tell  you  what  you  will  do.    Draw  a 

thousand  pounds  now ;  and  when  you  have  gone 
through  that,  draw  another  thousand,  and  when  that 
is  spent,  draw  another  thousand,  and  when  you  have 
finished  that,  draw  another  thousand,  and  so  on ;  but, 
find  Livingstone. 

Surprised  but  not  confused  at  the  order,  for  I  knew 
that  Mr.  Bennett  when  once  he  had  made  up  his  mind 
was  not  easily  drawn  aside  from  his  purpose,  I  yet 
thought,  seeing  it  was  such  a  gigantic  scheme,  that  he 
had  not  quite  considered  in  his  own  mind  the  pros  and 
cons  of  the  case  ;  I  said,  "  I  have  heard  that  should 
your  father  die  you  would  sell  the  £  Herald '  and  retire 
from  business." 

"  Whoever  told  you  that  is  wrong,  for  there  is  not 
money  enough  in  New  York  city  to  buy  the  1  New 
York  Herald.'  My  father  has  made  it  a  great  paper, 
but  I  mean  to  make  it  greater.  I  mean  that  it  shall  be 
a  news  paper  in  the  true  sense  of  the  word.  I  mean 
that  it  shall  publish  whatever  news  will  be  interesting 
to  the  world  at  no  matter  what  cost." 

"  After  that,"  said  I,  "  I  have  nothing  more  to  say. 
Do  you  mean  me  to  go  straight  on  to  Africa  to  search 
for  Dr.  Livingstone  ?" 

"  No !  I  wish  you  to  go  to  the  inauguration  of  the 
Suez  Canal  first  and  then  proceed  up  the  Nile.  I  hear 
Baker  is  about  starting  for  Upper  Egypt.  Find  out 
what  you  can  about  his  expedition,  and  as  you  go  up 
describe  as  well  as  possible  whatever  is  interesting  for 


INTRODUCTORY. 


tourists ;  and  then  write  up  a  guide — a  practical  one — 
for  Lower  Egypt,  tell  us  about  whatever  is  worth 
seeing  and  how  to  see  it. 

u  Then  you  might  as  well  go  to  Jerusalem ;  I  hear 
Captain  Warren  is  making  some  interesting  discoveries 
there.  Then  visit  Constantinople,  and  find  out  about 
that  trouble  between  the  Khedive  and  the  Sultan. 

"Then— let  me  see — you  might  as  well  visit  the 
Crimea  and  those  old  battle-grounds.  Then  go  across 
the  Caucasus  to  the  Caspian  Sea,  I  hear  there  is  a 
Russian  expedition  bound  for  Khiva.  From  thence 
you  may  get  through  Persia  to  India ;  you  could  write 
an  interesting  letter  from  Persepolis. 

"  Bagdad  will  be  close  on  your  way  to  India ;  suppose 
you  go  there,  and  write  up  something  about  the  Eu- 
phrates Yalley  Railway.  Then,  when  you  have  come 
to  India,  you  can  go  after  Livingstone.  Probably  you 
will  hear  by  that  time  that  Livingstone  is  on  his  way 
to  Zanzibar ;  but  if  not,  go  into  the  interior  and  find 
him,  if  alive.  Get  what  news  of  his  discoveries  you 
can  ;  and,  if  you  find  he  is  dead,  bring  all  possible 
proofs  of  his  being  dead.  That  is  all.  Good-night, 
and  God  be  with  you." 

"  Good-night,  sir,"  I  said  ;  "  what  it  is  in  the  power 
of  human  nature  to  do  I  will  do  ;  and  on  such  an  errand 
as  I  go  upon,  God  will  be  with  me." 

I  lodged  with  young  Edward  King,  who  is  making 
such  a  name  in  New  England.  He  was  just  the  man 
who  would  have  delighted  to  tell  the  Journal  he  was 


INTRODUCTORY. 


engaged  upon  what  young  Mr.  Bennett  was  doing,  and 
what  errand  I  was  bound  upon. 

I  should  have  liked  to  exchange  opinions  with  him 
upon  the  probable  results  of  my  journey,  but  I  dared 
not  do  so.  Though  oppressed  with  the  great  task 
before  me,  I  had  to  appear  as  if  only  going  to  be 
present  at  the  Suez  Canal.  Young  King  followed  me 
to  the  express-train  bound  for  Marseilles,  and  at  the 
station  we  parted — he  to  go,  and  read  the  newspapers 
at  Bowles'  Reading-room—  I  to  Central  Africa  and — 
who  knows  ? 

There  is  no  need  to  recapitulate  what  I  did  before 
going  to  Central  Africa. 

I  went  up  the  Nile,  and  saw  Mr.  Higginbotham, 
chief-engineer  in  Baker's  Expedition,  at  Philae,  and 
was  the  means  of  preventing  a  duel  between  him  and  a 
mad  young  Frenchman,  who  wanted  to  fight  Mr.  Hig- 
ginbotham  with  pistols,  because  that  gentleman  re- 
sented the  idea  of  being  taken  for  an  Egyptian,  through 
wearing  a  fez  cap.  I  had  a  talk  with  Capt.  Warren 
at  Jerusalem,  and  descended  one  of  the  pits  with  a 
sergeant  of  engineers  to  see  the  marks  of  the  Tyrian 
workmen  on  the  foundation  stones  of  the  Temple  of 
Solomon.  I  visited  the  mosques  of  Stamboul  with 
the  Minister  Resident  of  the  United  States,  and  the 
American  Consul  General.  I  travelled  over  the 
Crimean  battle-grounds  with  Kinglake's  glorious  books 
for  reference  in  my  hand.  I  dined  with  the  widow  of 
General  Liprandi  at  Odessa.      I   saw  the  Arabian 


INTRODUCTORY. 


traveller  Palgrave  at  Trebizond,  and  Baron  Nicolay, 
the  Civil  Governor  of  the  Caucasus,  at  Tiflis.  I  lived 
with  the  Russian  Ambassador  while  at  Teheran,  and 
wherever  I  went  through  Persia  I  received  the  most 
hospitable  welcome  from  the  gentlemen  of  the  Indo- 
European  Telegraph  Company ;  and  following  the 
examples  of  many  illustrious  men,  I  wrote  my  name 
upon  one  of  the  Persepolitan  monuments.  In  the 
month  of  August,  1870,  I  arrived  in  India. 

On  the  12th  of  October  I  sailed  on  the  barque 
"  Polly  "  from  Bombay  to  Mauritius.  As  the  "  Polly  " 
was  a  slow  sailer,  the  passage  lasted  thirty-seven  days. 
On  board  this  barque  was  a  William  Lawrence 
Farquhar — hailing  from  Leith,  Scotland — in  the  ca- 
pacity of  first-mate.  He  was  an  excellent  navigator, 
and  thinking  he  might  be  useful  to  me,  I  employed 
him ;  his  pay  to  begin  from  the  date  we  should  leave 
Zanzibar  for  Bagamoyo.  As  there  was  no  opportunity 
of  getting  to  Zanzibar  direct,  I  took  ship  to  Seychelles. 
Three  or  four  days  after  arriving  at  Mahe,  one  of  the 
Seychelles  group,  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  get  a 
passage  for  myself,  William  Lawrence  Farquhar,  and 
Selim — a  Christian  Arab  boy  ot  Jerusalem,  who  was  to 
act  as  interpreter — on  board  an  American  whaling 
vessel,  bound  for  Zanzibar,  at  which  port  we  arrived 
on  the  6th  of  January,  1871. 

I  have  skimmed  over  my  travels  thus  far,  because 
these  do  not  concern  the  reader.  They  led  over  many 
lands,  but  this  book  is  only  a  narrative  of  my  search 


INTBODUCTORY 


after  Livingstone,  the  great  African  traveller.  It  is 
an  Icarian  flight  of  journalism,  I  confess;  some  even 
have  called  it  Quixotic ;  but  this  is  a  word  I  can  now 
refute,  as  will  be  seen  before  the  reader  arrives  at  the 
"  Finis." 

I  have  used  the  word  "  soldiers 99  in  this  book.  The 
armed  escort  a  traveller  engages  to  accompany  him 
into  East  Africa  is  composed  of  free  black  men,  natives 
of  Zanzibar,  or  freed  slaves  from  the  interior,  who  call 
themselves  "  askari,"  an  Indian  name  which,  translated, 
means  "  soldiers."  They  are  armed  and  equipped  like 
soldiers,  though  they  engage  themselves  also  as  ser- 
vants ;  but  it  would  be  more  pretentious  in  me  to  call 
them  servants,  than  to  use  the  word  "  soldiers  ;"  and 
as  I  have  been  more  in  the  habit  of  calling  them 
soldiers,  than  my  watuma — servants — this  habit  has 
proved  too  much  to  be  overcome.  I  have  therefore 
allowed  the  word  "  soldiers "  to  appear,  accompanied, 
however,  with  this  apology. 

I  have  also  used  the  personal  pronoun  first  person 
singular,  u  I,"  oftener,  perhaps,  than  real  modesty  would 
admit. 

But  it  must  be  remembered  that  I  am  writing  a 
narrative  of  my  own  adventures  and  travels,  and  that 
until  I  meet  Livingstone,  I  presume  the  greatest  interest 
is  attached  to  myself,  my  marches,  my  troubles,  my 
thoughts,  and  my  impressions.  Yet  though  I  may 
sometimes  write,  "  my  expedition,"  or  "  my  caravan," 
it  by  no  means  follows  that  I  arrogate  to  myself  this 


INTB  OB  UCTOli  T. 


xxiii 


right.  For  it  must  be  distinctly  understood  that  it  is 
the  66 '  New  York  Herald  '  Expedition,"  and  that  I  am 
only  charged  with  its  command  by  Mr.  James  Gordon 
Bennett,  the  proprietor  of  the  '  New  York  Herald,'  as 
a  salaried  employe  of  that  gentleman. 

One  thing  more  ;  I  have  adopted  the  narrative  form 
of  relating  the  story  of  the  search,  on  account  of  the 
greater  interest  it  appears  to  possess  over  the  diary 
form,  and  I  think  that  in  this  manner  I  avoid  the  great 
fault  of  repetition  for  which  some  travellers  have  been 
severely  criticised. 

Having  explained  so  much,  I  do  not  think  it  neces- 
sary to  say  any  more  in  the  Introduction,  and  shall 
therefore  commence  my  narrative. 

HENRY  M.  STANLEY, 


8,  Duchess  Street,  Portland  Place,  London 
October,  1872. 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE 


CHAPTER  L 

ZANZIBAR. 

One  of  the  fruitfulest  islands  of  the  Indian  Ocean  is 
Zanzibar.  When  I  left  Bombay  for  the  rjurpose  of 
leading  the  '  New  York  Herald '  expedition  into  the 
unknown  heart  of  Africa,  my  abstract  conception  of  the 
island  was  that  it  was  but  a  little  better  than  a  great 
sandbar,  or  a  patch  of  Sahara,  with  a  limited  oasis  or  two, 
surrounded  by  the  sea,  rife  with  cholera,  fever,  and 
nameless  but  dreadful  diseases ;  populated  by  ignorant 
blacks,  with  great  thick  lips,  whose  general  appearance 
might  be  compared  to  Du  Chaillu's  gorillas,  who  were 
ruled  over  by  a  despotic  and  surly  Arab. 

How  it  had  become  thus  distorted  in  my  imagina- 
tion I  cannot  conceive.  I  had  read  books  and  articles 
on  Zanzibar,  which  were  by  no  means  unfavourably 
disposed  towards  it,  yet  it  floated  in  my  brain  as  an 
island  whose  total  submersion  in  the  sea  would  benefit 
the  world.  I  am  not  certain,  but  I  think  I  caught  the 
idea  from  Capt.  Burton's  'Lake  Regions  of  Central 
Africa,'  along  with  many  other  eccentric  ideas.  The 
whole  book,  although  wonderfully  clever  and  truthful, 

B 


2  HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 

is  somewhat  bilious  in  tone,  and  I  think  its  effect  was 
manifest  in  me  by  a  rush  of  a  part  of  its  bile  into  my 
head,  for  while  I  read  it  I  saw  a  lethal  stream,  wThich 
drifted  with  me  towards  the  eternal  feverish  region  of 
Africa,  from  which  a  sickening  presentiment  said  there 
was  no  return.  But  hail !  to  the  blessed  dawn  that 
dispels  the  dreadful  dream  under  which  you  groaned  in 
agony  throughout  the  night.  Hail !  to  the  letter  that 
brings  good  news,  and  hail !  to  the  verdant  shores  of 
Zanzibar,  that  said  to  me,  "  Hope ;  things  are  seldom 
so  bad  as  they  are  painted.' ' 

It  was  in  the  early  morning  that  I  sailed  through 
the  channel  that  separates  Zanzibar  from  Africa.  The 
high  lands  of  the  continent  loomed  like  a  lengthening 
shadow  in  the  grey  of  dawn.  The  island  lay  on  our 
left,  distant  but  a  mile,  coming  out  of  its  shroud  of 
foggy  folds,  bit  by  bit  as  the  day  advanced,  until  it 
finally  rose  clearly  into  view,  as  fair  in  appearance  as 
the  fairest  of  the  gems  of  creation.  [  It  appeared  low, 
but  not  flat ;  there  were  gentle  elevations  cropping 
hither  and  yon  above  the  languid  but  graceful  tops  of 
the  cocoa-trees  that  lined  the  margin  of  the  island,  and 
there  were  depressions  visible  at  agreeable  intervals,  to 
indicate  where  a  cool  gloom  might  be  found  by  those 
who  sought  relief  from  a  hot  sun.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  the  thin  line  of  sand,  over  which  the  sap-green 
wTater  rolled  itself  with  a  constant  murmur  and  moan, 
the  island  seemed  buried  under  one  deep  stratum  of 
verdure. 

The  noble  bosom  of  the  strait  bore  several  dhows, 
speeding  in  and  out  of  the  bay  of  Zanzibar  with  bellying 
sails.  Towards  the  south,  above  the  sea  line  of  the 
horizon,  there  appeared  the  naked  masts  of  several 
large  ships,  and  to  the  east  of  these  a  dense  mass  of 


y  j.  i87i.] 


ZANZIBAR. 


3 


wxiite,  flat-topped  houses.  This  was  Zanzibar,  the 
capital  of  the  island  ; — which  soon  resolved  itself  into  a 
pretty  large  and  compact  city,  with  all  the  characteristics 
of  Arab  architecture.  Above  some  of  the  largest  houses 
lining  the  bay  front  of  the  city  streamed  the  blood-red 
banner  of  the  Sultan,  Syed  Burghash,  and  the  flags  of  the 
American,  English,  North  German  Confederation,  and 
French  Consulates.  In  the  harbor  were  thirteen  large 
ships,  four  Zanzibar  men-of-war,  one  English  man-of- 
war — the  "  Nymphe,"  two  American,  one  French,  one 
Portuguese,  two  English,  and  two  German  merchantmen, 
besides  numerous  dhows  hailing  from  Johanna  and 
Mayotte  of  the  Comoro  Islands,  dhows  from  Muscat  and 
Cutch — traders  between  India,  the  Persian  Gulf,  and 
Zanzibar. 

It  was  with  the  spirit  of  true  hospitality  and  courtesy 
that  Capt.  Francis  R.  Webb,  United  States  Consul, 
(formerly  of  the  United  States  Navy,)  received  me. 
Had  this  gentleman  not  rendered  me  such  needful 
service,  I  must  have  condescended  to  take  board  and 
lodging  at  a  house  known  as  "  Charley's,"  called  after 
the  proprietor,  who  is  a  Frenchman  with  a  crooked 
nose,  and  withal  very  eccentric,  who  has  won  con- 
siderable local  notoriety  for  harboring  penniless  itine- 
rants, and  manifesting  a  kindly  spirit  always,  though 
hidden  under  such  a  rugged  front ;  or  I  should  have 
been  obliged  to  pitch  my  doubled-clothed  American 
drill  tent  on  the  sandbeach  of  this  tropical  island, 
an  in-no-wise  desirable  thing. 

But  Capt.  Webb's  opportune  proposal  to  make  his 
commodious  and  comfortable  house  my  own  ;  to  enjoy 
myself,  with  the  request  that  I  would  call  for  whatever 
I  might  require,  obviated  all  unpleasant  alternatives. 

One  day's  life  at  Zanzibar,  made  me  thoroughly 

B  2 


4 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


conscious  of  my  ignorance  respecting  African  people 
and  things  in  general.  I  imagined  I  had  read  Burton 
and  Speke  through,  fairly  well,  and  that  consequently 
I  had  penetrated  the  meaning,  the  full  importance  and 
grandeur,  of  the  work  I  was  about  to  be  engaged  upon. 
But  my  estimates,  for  instance,  based  upon  book  in- 
formation, were  simply  ridiculous, — fanciful  images  of 
African  attractions  were  soon  dissipated,  anticipated 
pleasures  vanished,  and  all  crude  ideas  began  to  resolve 
themselves  into  shape. 

I  strolled  through  the  city.  My  general  impressions 
are  of  crooked,  narrow  lanes,  white-washed  houses, 
mortar-plastered  streets,  in  the  clean  quarter  ; — of  seeing 
alcoves  on  each  side,  with  deep  recesses,  with  a  fore- 
ground of  red-turbaned  Banyans,  and  a  back-ground  of 
flimsy  cottons,  prints,  calicoes,  domestics  and  what 
not ;  or  of  floors  crowded  with  ivory  tusks ;  or  of  dark 
corners  with  a  pile  of  unginned  and  loose  cotton ;  or 
of  stores  of  crockery,  nails,  cheap  Brummagem  ware, 
tools,  &c,  in  what  I  call  the  Banyan  quarter  ; — of  streets 
smelling  very  strong — in  fact,  exceedingly  malodorous, 
with  steaming  yellow  and  black  bodies,  and  woolly 
heads,  sitting  at  the  doors  of  miserable  huts,  chatting, 
laughing,  bargaining,  scolding,  with  a  compound  smell 
of  hides,  tar,  filth,  vegetable  refuse,  excrement,  &c,  in  the 
negro  quarter ; — of  streets  lined  with  tall,  solid  looking 
houses,  flat  roofed,  of  great  carved  doors  with  large 
brass  knockers,  with  baabs  *  sitting  cross-legged  watch- 
ing the  dark  entrance  to  their  masters'  houses ;  of  a 
shallow  sea-inlet,  with  some  dhows,  canoes,  boats,  an  odd 
steam-tug  or  two,  leaning  over  on  their  sides  in  a  sea 
of  mud  which  the  tide  has  just  left  behind  it ;  of 
a  place  called  w  Nazi-Moya,"  "  One  Cocoa-tree,"  whither 

*  Porters. 


Jan.  1871.] 


Zanzibar. 


5 


Europeans  wend  on  evenings  with  most  languid,  mori- 
bund steps,  to  inhale  the  sweet  air  that  glides  over 
the  sea,  while  the  day  is  dying,  and  the  red  sun  is 
sinking  westward  ;  of  a  few  graves  of  dead  sailors,  who 
paid  the  forfeit  of  their  lives  upon  arrival  in  this  land  ;  of 
a  tall  house  wherein  lives  Dr.  Tozer,  "  Missionary  Bishop 
of  Central  Africa,"  and  his  school  of  little  Africans; 
and  of  many  other  things,  which  got  together  into  such 
a  tangle,  that  I  had  to  go  to  sleep,  lest  I  should  never 
be  able  to  separate  the  moving  images,  the  Arab  from 
the  African  ;  the  African  from  the  Banyan  ;  the  Banyan 
from  the  Hindi ;  the  Hindi  from  the  European,  &c. 

Zanzibar  is  the  Bagdad,  the  Ispahan,  the  Stamboul, 
if  you  like,  of  East  Africa.  It  is  the  great  mart  which 
invites  the  ivory  traders  from  the  African  interior.  To 
this  market  come  the  gum-copal,  the  hides,  the  or- 
chilla,  the  timber,  and  the  black  slaves  from  Africa. 
Bagdad  had  great  silk  bazaars,  Zanzibar  has  her  ivory 
bazaars  ;  Bagdad  once  traded  in  jewels,  Zanzibar  trades 
in  gum-copal ;  Stamboul  imported  Circassian  and  Geor- 
gian slaves ;  Zanzibar  imports  black  beauties  from 
Uhiyow,  Ugindo,  Ugogo,  Unyamwezi  and  Galla. 

The  same  mode  of  commerce  obtains  here  as  in  all 
Mohammedan  countries — nay,  the  mode  was  in  vogue 
long  before  Moses  was  born.  The  Arab  never  changes. 
He  brought  the  custom  of  his  forefathers  with  him  when 
he  came  to  live  on  this  island.  He  is  as  much  of  an  Arab 
here,  as  at  Muscat  or  Bagdad  ;  wherever  he  goes  to  live, 
he  carries  with  him  his  harem,  his  religion,  his  long  robe, 
his  shirt,  his  watta,*  and  his  dagger.  If  he  penetrates 
Africa,  not  all  the  ridicule  of  the  negroes  can  make 
him  change  his  modes  of  life.  Yet  the  land  has  not 
become  Oriental ;  the  Arab  has  not  been  able  to  change 

*  Slippers. 


8 


JJOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  atmosphere.  The  land  is  semi-African  in  aspect; 
the  city  is  but  semi-Arabian. 

To  a  new-corn  ar  into  Africa,  the  Muscat  Arabs  of 
Zanzibar  are  studies.  There  is  a  certain  empressement 
about  them,  which  we  must  admire.  They  are  mostly 
all  travellers.  There  are  but  few  of  them,  that  have 
not  been  in  many  dangerous  positions,  as  they  pene- 
trated Central  Africa  in  search  of  the  precious  ivory ; 
and  these,  with  their  various  experiences,  have  given 
their  features  a  certain  unmistakeabJe  air  of  self- 
reliance,  or  of  self-sufficiency  ;  there  is  a  calm,  resolute, 
defiant,  independent  air  about  them,  which  wins  un- 
consciously one's  respect.  The  stories  that  some  of 
these  men  could  tell,  I  have  often  thought  would  fill 
many  a  book  of  thrilling  adventures. 

For  the  half-castes  I  have  great  contempt.  They 
are  neither  black  nor  white,  neither  good  nor  bad, 
neither  to  be  admired  nor  hated.  They  are  all  things, 
at  all  times,  they  are  always  fawning  on  the  great 
Arabs,  and  always  cruel  to  those  unfortunates  brought 
under  their  yoke.  If  I  saw  a  miserable,  half-starved 
negro,  I  was  always  sure  to  be  told,  he  belonged  to  a 
half-caste.  Cringing  and  hypocritical,  cowardly  and 
debased,  treacherous  and  mean,  I  have  always  found 
him.  He  seems  to  be  for  ever  ready  to  fall  down  and 
worship  a  rich  Arab,  but  is  relentless  to  a  poor  black 
slave.  When  he  swears  most,  you  may  be  sure  he  lies 
most,  and  yet  this  is  the  breed  which  is  multiplied  most 
at  Zanizibar — this  syphilitic,  blear-eyed,  pallid-skinned, 
abortion  of  an  Africanized  Arab. 

The  Banyan  is  a  born  trader,  the  beau-ideal  of  a 
sharp  money -making  man.  Money  flows  to  his  pockets 
as  naturally  as  water  down  a  steep.  No  pang  of  con- 
science will  prevent  him  from  cheating  his  fellow  man. 


Jan.  1871.]  ZANZIBAR.  "i 

He  excels  a  Jew,  and  his  only  rival  in  a  market  is  a 
Parsee  ;  an  Arab  is  a  babe  to  him.  It  is  worth  money 
to  see  him  labour  with  all  his  energy,  soul,  and  body,  to 
get  advantage  by  the  smallest  fraction  of  a  coin  over 
a  native.  Possibly  the  native  has  a  tusk,  and  it  may 
weigh  a  couple  of  frasilahs,  but,  though  the  scales 
indicate  the  weight,  and  the  native  declares  solemnly 
that  it  must  be  more  than  two  frasilahs,  yet  our  Banyan 
will  asseverate,  and  aver,  and  declare,  and  vow,  that  the 
native  knows  nothing  whatever  about  it,  and  that  the 
scales  are  wrong;  he  musters  up  courage  to  lift  it, 
it  is  a  mere  song,  not  much  more  than  a  frasilah. 

Come,"  he  will  say,  "  close,  man,  take  the  money  and 
go  thy  way.  Art  thou  mad  ?  "  If  the  native  hesitates, 
he  will  scream  in  a  fury ;  he  pushes  him  about,  spurns 
the  ivory  with  contemptuous  indifference, — never  was 
such  ado  about  nothing;  but,  though  he  tells  the 
astounded  native  to  be  up  and  going,  he  never  intends 
the  ivory  shall  leave  his  shop. 

The  Banyans  exercise,  of  all  other  classes,  most 
influence  on  the  trade  of  Central  Africa.  With  the  ex- 
ception of  a  very  few  rich  Arabs,  almost  all  other  traders 
are  subject  to  the  pains  and  penalties  which  usury 
imposes.  A  trader  desirous  to  make  a  journey  into 
the  interior,  whether  for  slaves  or  ivory,  gum-copal, 
or  orchilla  weed,  proposes  to  a  Banyan  to  advance  him 
S5,000  at  50,  GO,  or  70  per  cent,  interest.  The  Banyan 
is  safe  enough  not  to  lose,  whether  the  speculation  the 
trader  is  engaged  upon  pays  or  not.  An  experienced 
trader  seldom  loses,  or  if  he  has  been  unfortunate, 
through  no  deed  of  his  own,  he  does  not  lose  credit ; 
with  the  help  of  the  Banyan,  he  is  easily  set  on  his 
feet  again. 

We  will  suppose,  for  the  sake  of  illustrating  how 


8 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


tiade  with  the  interior  is  managed,  that  the  Arab 
conveys  by  his  caravan  $5,000  worth  of  goods  into 
the  interior.  At  Unyanyembe  the  goods  are  worth 
$10,000;  at  Ujiji,  they  are  worth  $15,000:  they  have 
trebled  in  price.  Five  doti,  or  $7*50,  will  purchase  a 
slave  in  the  markets  of  Ujiji  that  will  fetch  in  Zanzibar 
$30*00.  Ordinary  men-slaves  may  be  purchased  for 
$6-00  which  would  sell  for  $25*00  on  the  coast.  We 
will  say  he  purchases  slaves  to  the  full  extent  of  his 
means — after  deducting  $1,500  expenses  of  carriage  to 
Ujiji  and  back — viz.  $3,500,  the  slaves — 464  in  number, 
at  $7*50  per  head — would  realize  $13,920  at  Zanzibar! 
Again,  let  us  illustrate  trade  in  ivory.  A  merchant 
takes  $5,000  to  Ujiji,  and  after  deducting  $1,500  for 
expenses  to  Ujiji,  and  back  to  Zanzibar,  has  still  remain- 
ing $3,500  in  cloth  and  beads,  with  which  he  purchases 
ivory.  At  Ujiji  ivory  is  bought  at  $20  the  frasilah,  or 
35  lbs.,  by  which  he  is  enabled  with  $3,500  to  collect 
175  frasilah s,  which  if  good  ivory  is  worth  about  $60 
per  frasilah  at  Zanzibar.  The  merchant  thus  finds 
that  he  has  realized  $10,500  net  profit!  Arab  traders 
have  often  done  better  than  this,  but  they  almost 
always  have  come  back  with  an  enormous  margin  of 
profit. 

The  next  people  to  the  Banyans  in  power  in  Zanzi- 
bar are  the  Mohammedan  Hindis.  Eeally  it  has  been  a 
debateable  subject  in  my  mind  whether  the  Hindis  are 
not  as  wickedly  determined  to  cheat  in  trade,  as  the 
Banyans.  But,  if  1  have  conceded  the  palm  to  the 
latter,  it  has  been  done  very  reluctantly.  This  tribe  of 
Indians  can  produce  scores  of  unconscionable  rascals 
where  they  can  show  but  one  honest  merchant.  One 
of  the  honestest  among  men,  white  or  black,  red  or 
yellow,  is  a  Mohammedan  Hindi  called  Tarya  Topan. 


Jan.  1871.] 


ZANZIBAR. 


fa 


Among  the  Europeans  at  Zanzibar,  he  has  become 
a  proverb  for  honesty,  and  strict  business  integrity. 
He  is  enormously  wealthy,  owns  several  ships  and 
dhows,  and  is  a  prominent  man  in  the  councils  of  Syed 
Burghash.  Tarya  has  many  children,  two  or  three 
of  whom  are  grown-up  sons,  whom  he  has  reared  up 
even  as  he  is  himself.  But  Tarya  is  but  a  representative 
of  an  exceedingly  small  minority. 

The  Arabs,  the  Banyans,  and  the  Mohammedan 
Hindis,  represent  the  higher  and  the  middle  classes. 
These  classes  own  the  estates,  the  ships,  and  the 
trade.  To  these  classes  bow  the  half-caste  and  the 
negro. 

The  next  most  important  people  who  go  to  make 
up  the  mixed  population  of  this  island  are  the  negroes. 
They  consist  of  the  aborigines,  Wasawahili,  Somalis, 
Comorines,  Wanyamwezi.  and  a  host  of  tribal  repre- 
sentatives of  Inner  Africa. 

To  a  white  stranger  about  penetrating  Africa,  it  is  a 
most  interesting  walk  through  the  negro  quarters  of  the 
Wanyamwezi  and  the  Wasawahili.  For  here  he  begins 
to  learn  the  necessity  of  admitting  that  negroes  are 
men,  like  himself,  though  of  a  different  colour;  that 
they  have  passions  and  prejudices,  likes  and  dislikes, 
sympathies  and  antipathies,  tastes  and  feelings,  in 
common  with  all  human  nature.  The  sooner  he  per- 
ceives this  fact,  and  adapts  himself  accordingly,  the 
easier  will  be  his  journey  among  the  several  races  of 
the  interior.  The  more  plastic  his  nature,  the  more 
prosperous  will  be  his  travels. 

Though  I  had  lived  some  time  among  the  negroes  of 
our  Southern  States,  my  education  was  Northern,  and 
I  had  met  in  the  United  States  black  men,  whom  I  was 
proud  to  call  friends.  I  was  thus  prepared  to  admit  any 


10 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


black  man,  possessing  the  attributes  of  true  manhood, 
or  any  good  qualities,  to  my  friendship,  even  to  a 
brotherhood  with  myself ;  and  to  respect  him  for  such, 
as  much  as  if  he  were  of  my  own  colour  and  race. 
Neither  his  colour,  nor  any  peculiarities  of  physiognomy 
should  debar  him  with  me  from  any  rights  he  could  fairly 
claim  as  a  man.  "  Have  these  men — these  black  savages 
from  pagan  Africa,"  I  asked  myself,  "  the  qualities 
which  make  man  loveable  among  his  fellows  ?"  "  Can 
these  men — these  barbarians — appreciate  kindness  01 
feel  resentment  like  myself  ?  "  was  my  mental  question 
as  I  travelled  through  their  quarters  and  observed  their 
actions.  Need  I  say,  that  I  was  much  comforted  in 
observing  that  they  were  as  ready  to  be  influenced  by 
passions,  by  loves  and  hates,  as  I  was  myself ;  that  the 
keenest  observation  failed  to  detect  any  great  difference 
between  their  nature  and  my  own. 

The  negroes  of  the  island  probably  number  two- 
thirds  of  the  entire  population.  They  compose  the 
working-class,  whether  enslaved  or  free.  Those  en- 
slaved perform  the  work  required  on  the  plantations, 
the  estates  and  gardens  of  the  landed  proprietors,  or 
perform  the  work  of  hamals  or  carriers,  whether  in  the 
country  or  the  city.  Outside  the  city  they  may  be  seen 
carrying  huge  loads  on  their  heads,  as  happy  as  pos- 
sible, not  because  they  are  kindly  treated  or  that  their 
work  is  light,  but  because  it  is  their  nature  to  be  gay 
and  light-hearted,  because  they  have  conceived  neither 
joys  nor  hopes  which  may  not  be  gratified  at  will,  nor 
cherished  any  ambition  beyond  their  reach,  and  there- 
fore have  not  been  baffled  in  their  hopes,  nor  known 
disappointment. 

Within  the  city,  negro  hamals  may  be  heard  at  all 
hours,  in  couples,  engaged  in  the  transportation  of 


J  as.  1871.] 


ZANZIBAR. 


clove-bags,  boxes  of  merchandise,  &c,  from  store  to 
"  go-down  "  and  from  "  go-down  "  to  the  beach,  singing 
a  kind  of  monotone  chant  for  the  encouragement  oi 
each  other,  and  for  the  guiding  of  their  pace  as  they 
shuffle  through  the  streets  with  bare  feet.  You  may 
recognise  these  men  readily,  before  long,  as  old  ac- 
quaintances, by  the  consistency  with  which  they  sing 
the  tunes  they  have  adopted.  Several  times  during 
a  day  have  I  heard  the  same  couple  pass  beneath  the 
windows  of  the  Consulate,  delivering  themselves  of  the 
same  invariable  tune  and  words.  Some  might  possibly 
deem  the  songs  foolish  and  silly,  but  they  had  a  certain 
attraction  for  me,  and  I  considered  that  they  were  as 
useful  as  anything  else  for  the  purposes  they  were 
intended. 

The  town  of  Zanzibar,  situate  on  the  south-western 
shore  of  the  island,  contains  a  population  of  nearly  one 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants  ;  that  of  the  island  alto- 
gether 1  would  estimate  at  not  more  than  two  bundled 
thousand  inhabitants,  including  all  races. 

The  greatest  number  of  foreign  vessels  trading  with 
this  port  are  American,  principally  from  New  York 
and  Salem.  After  the  American  come  the  German, 
then  come  the  French  and  English.  They  arrive 
loaded  with  American  sheeting,  brandy,  gunpowder, 
muskets,  beads,  English  cottons,  brass- wire,  china-ware 
and  other  notions,  and  depart  with  ivory,  gum- 
copal,  cloves,  hides,  cowries,  sesamnm,  pepper,  and 
cocoa-nut  oil. 

The  value  of  the  exports  from  this  port  is  estimated 
at  $3,000,000,  and  the  imports  from  all  countries  at 
$3,500,000. 

The  Europeans  and  Americans  residing  in  the  town 
of  Zanzibar  are  either  Government  officials,  independent 


12 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


merchants,  or  agents  for  a  few  great  mercantile  houses 
in  Europe  and  America. 

The  most  important  consulate  at  Zanzibar  is  the 
British.  The  acting  British  Consul  and  political  resi- 
dent, when  I  was  at  Zanzibar  preparing  my  expedition 
for  the  African  interior,  was  Dr.  John  Kirk. 

I  felt  quite  a  curiosity  to  see  this  gentleman,  from 
the  fact  of  his  name  being  so  often  coupled  with  the 
object  of  my  search — Dr.  David  Livingstone. 

In  almost  all  newspapers  he  was  mentioned  as  the 
"  former  companion  of  Dr.  Livingstone."  I  imagined, 
from  the  tone  of  the  articles  that  I  saw  published,  and 
from  his  own  letters  to  the  Indian  Government,  that  if 
I  could  obtain  any  positive  information  from  any  person 
regarding  the  whereabouts  of  Dr.  Livingstone  I  should 
be  able  to  procure  it  from  Dr.  Kirk. 

It  was  with  feelings  of  no  small  impatience,  therefore, 
that  I  awaited  the  honour  of  an  introduction  to  him 
through  Capt.  Webb. 

On  the  second  morning  after  my  arrival  at  Zanzibar, 
according  to  the  demands  of  Zanzibar  etiquette,  the 
American  Consul  and  myself  sallied  out  into  the  street, 
and  in  a  few  moments  I  was  in  the  presence  of  this 
much-befamed  man.  To  a  man  of  rather  slim  figure, 
dressed  plainly,  slightly  round-shouldered,  hair  black, 
face  thin,  cheeks  rather  sunk  and  bearded,  Capt. 
Webb  said,  tk  Dr.  Kirk,  permit  me  to  introduce  Mr. 
Stanley,  of  the  <  New  York  Herald.'  " 

I  fancied  at  the  moment  that  he  lifted  his  eyelids 
perceptibly,  disclosing  the  full  circle  of  the  eyes.  If  I 
were  to  define  such  a  look,  I  would  call  it  a  broad  stare. 
During  the  conversation,  which  ranged  over  several 
subjects,  though  watching  his  face  intently,  I  never 
saw  it  kindle  or  become  animated  but  once,  and  that 


Jan.  1871.] 


ZANZIBAR. 


13 


was  while  relating  some  of  his  hunting  feats  to  us. 
As  the  subject  nearest  my  heart  was  not  entered 
upon,  I  promised  myself  I  would  ask  him  about 
Dr.  Livingstone  the  next  time  I  called  upon  him. 

Tuesday  evenings  "  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Kirk  are  at  home," 
Zanzibarites  are  informed.  The  pleasures  of  those 
evenings  the  civilised  community  of  Zanzibar  gene- 
rally ignore,  but  the  representatives  of  the  European 
colony  do  visit  them  nevertheless.  This  special 
evening,  there  was  quite  a  "  sprinkling "  of  the 
upper-ten-dom. 

As  the  American  party  of  visitors  arrived  early,  I 
was  enabled  to  note  how  other  guests  entered  into  con- 
versation, and  I  wondered  to  hear  each  and  all  after 
the  first  greeting  inquire  anxiously  of  the  Consul  and 
his  lady,  if  they  had  been  to  "  Nazi-Moya  "  that  evening, 
to  which  they  responded  in  the  negative ;  for  it  hap- 
pened that  they  had  not  extended  their  recreative  walk 
so  far  as  the  classic  grounds  of  Nazi-Moya  that  par- 
ticular evening. 

"  Oh,"  each  guest  said,  in  a  tone  of  triumphal  and 
delighted  wonderment,  "  I  thought  I  had  not  seen  you 
there." 

"Where,  and  what  is  Nazi-Moya?"  I  was  fain  to 
ask  of  Capt.  Webb. 

"  Nazi-Moya,"  said  this  pleasant  cynic,  "  Nazi-Moya 
means  in  English,  '  One  Cocoa-tree  it  is  a  rendezvous 
just  behind  Ras  Shangani  (Sandy  Point),  whither  we  go 
on  afternoons  to  enjoy  the  fresh  sea-breeze.  It  is  the 
usual  form  of  opening  a  conversation,  owing  to  the 
terrible  dearth  of  topics  just  now  we  have  to  talk 
about." 

Capt.  Webb  spoke  truly  when  he  said  there  was  a 
'*  terrible  dearth  of  topics,"  and  subsequent  experience 


14 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


proved  to  me  that  the  good  Europeans  of  Zanzibar,  in 
the  absence  of  legitimate  matter,  were  never  slow  to 
avail  themselves  of  the  least  bit  of  scandal,  in  order  to 
make  the  evenings  pleasant  and  agreeable. 

The  entertainment  which  the  British  Consul  and  his 
lady  provided  for  the  visitors  on  their  reception  evening 
consists  of  a  kind  of  mild  wine  and  cigars ;  not,  because 
they  have  nothing  else  in  the  house — no  decoction  of 
bohea,  or  hyson,  with  a  few  cakes — but  I  suppose 
because  it  is  the  normal  and  accustomed  habit  of  a  free 
Zanzibarized  European  to  indulge  in  something  of  this 
sort,  mixed  with  a  little  soda  or  seltzer-water,  as  a 
stimulant  to  the  bits  of  refined  gossip,  generally  pro- 
mulgated under  the  vinous  influence  to  sympathizing, 
interested,  and  eager  listeners. 

It  was  all  very  fine,  I  dare  say,  but  I  thought  it  was 
the  dreariest  evening  I  ever  passed,  until  Dr.  Kirk, 
pitying  the  wearisomeness  under  which  I  was  labouring, 
called  me  aside  to  submit  to  my  inspection  a  magnificent 
elephant  rifle,  which  he  said  was  a  present  from  a 
governor  of  Bombay.  Then  I  heard  eulogies  upon  its 
deadly  powers  and  its  fatal  accuracy  ;  I  heard  anecdotes 
of  jungle  life,  adventures  experienced  while  hunting, 
and  incidents  of  his  travels  with  Livingstone. 

"  Ah,  yes,  Dr.  Kirk,"  I  asked  carelessly,  "  about 
Livingstone — where  is  he,  do  you  think,  now?" 

"  Well,  really,"  he  replied,  u  you  know  that  is  very 
difficult  to  answer ;  he  may  be  dead  ;  there  is  nothing 
positive  whereon  we  can  base  sufficient  reliance.  Of 
one  thing  I  am  sure,  nobody  has  heard  anything  definite 
of  him  for  over  two  years.  I  should  fancy,  though,  he 
must  be  alive.  We  are  continually  sending  something 
up  for  him.  There  is  a  small  expedition  even  now  at 
Bagamoyo  about  starting  shortly.    I  really  think  the 


Jan.  1871.] 


ZANZIBAR. 


L5 


old  man  should  come  home  now  ;  he  is  growing  old,  you 
know,  and  if  he  died,  the  world  would  lose  the  benefit 
of  his  discoveries.  He  keeps  neither  notes  nor  journals  ; 
it  is  very  seldom  he  takes  observations.  He  simply 
makes  a  note  or  dot,  or  something,  on  a  map,  which 
nobody  could  understand  but  himself.  Oh,  yes,  by  all 
means  if  he  is  alive  he  should  come  home,  and  let  a 
younger  man  take  his  place.'7 

"  What  kind  of  a  man  is  he  to  get  along  with, 
Doctor  ?"  I  asked,  feeling  now  quite  interested  in  his 
conversation. 

"  Well,  I  think  he  is  a  very  difficult  man  to  deal  with 
generally.  Personally,  I  have  never  had  a  quarrel 
with  him,  but  I  have  seen  him  in  hot  water  with 
fellows  so  often,  and  that  is  principally  the  reason,  1 
think,  he  hates  to  have  any  one  with  him." 

"  I  am  told  he  is  a  very  modest  man ;  is  he  ?  "  I  asked. 

"  Oh,  he  knows  the  value  of  his  own  discoveries  ;  no 
man  better.  He  is  not  quite  an  angel,"  said  he,  with 
a  laugh. 

"Well  now,  supposing  I  met  him  in  my  travels — I 
might  possibly  stumble  across  him  if  he  travels  any- 
where in  the  direction  I  am  going — how  would  he 
conduct  himself  towards  me?" 

"  To  tell  you  the  truth,"  said  he,  "  I  do  not  think  he 
would  like  it  very  well.  I  know  if  Burton,  or  Grant, 
or  Baker,  or  any  of  those  fellows  were  going  after  him, 
and  he  heard  of  their  coming,  Livingstone  would  put  a 
hundred  miles  of  swamp  in  a  very  short  time  between 
himself  and  them.    I  do,  upon  my  word  I  do." 

This  was  the  tenor  of  the  interview  I  held  with 
Dr.  Kirk— former  companion  of  Livingstone — as  well 
as  my  journal  and  memory  can  recall  it  to  me. 

Need  I  say  this  information  from  a  gentleman  known 


L6 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  be  well  acquainted  with  Dr.  Livingstone,  rather  had 
the  effect  of  damping  my  ardor  for  the  search,  than 
adding  vigor  to  it.  I  felt  very  much  depressed,  and 
would  willingly  have  resigned  my  commission ;  but 
then  the  order  was,  "Go  and  find  Livingstone." 
Besides,  I  did  not  suppose,  though  I  had  so  readily 
consented  to  search  for  the  Doctor,  that  the  path  tc 
Central  Africa  was  strewn  with  roses.  What  though  I 
were  rebuked,  as  an  impertinent  interloper  in  the 
domain  of  Discovery,  as  a  meddler  in  things  that  con- 
cerned not  myself,  as  one  whose  absence  would  be  far 
more  acceptable  to  him  than  my  presence — had  I  not 
been  commanded  to  find  him  ?  Well,  find  him  I 
would,  if  he  were  above  ground ;  if  not,  then  I  would 
bring  what  concerned  people  to  know,  and  keep. 

Dr.  Kirk  very  kindly  promised  to  give  all  the  assist- 
ance in  his  power,  and  whatever  experience  he 
possessed  he  was  willing,  he  said,  to  give  me  its  full 
benefit.  But  I  cannot  recollect,  neither  do  I  find  a 
trace  of  it  in  my  journal,  that  he  assisted  me  in  any 
way.  Of  course,  he  was  not  aware  that  my  instruc- 
tions were  to  hunt  up  Dr.  Livingstone,  otherwise  Dr. 
Kirk,  I  have  no  doubt,  would  have  made  good  his 
word.  He  believed  I  was  about  to  ascend  the  Rufiji 
River  to  its  source.  But  what  newspaper  would 
despatch  a  "  special  "  to  discover  the  sources  of  an  in- 
significant river  like  the  Rufiji? 

The  climate  of  Zanzibar  is  not  the  most  agreeable  in 
the  world.  I  have  heard  Americans  and  Europeans 
condemn  it  most  heartily.  I  have  also  seen  nearly  one- 
half  of  the  white  colony  laid  up  in  one  day  from  sick- 
ness. A  noxious  malaria  is  exhaled  from  the  shallow 
inlet  of  Malagash,  and  the  undrained  filth,  the  garbage, 
offal,  dead  mollusks,  dead  pariah  dogs,  dead  cats,  all 


JAN.  1871.] 


ZANZIBAR. 


17 


species  of  carrion,  remains  of  men  and  beasts  unburied, 
assist  to  make  Zanzibar  a  most  unhealthy  city ;  and, 
considering  that  it  ought  to  be  a  most  healthy  city, 
nature  having  pointed  out  to  man  the  means,  and 
having  assisted  him  so  far,  it  is  most  wonderful  that 
the  ruling  prince  does  not  obey  the  dictates  of  reason. 
The  bay  of  Zanzibar  is  in  the  form  of  a  crescent,  and 
on  the  south-western  horn  of  it  is  built  the  city.  On 
the  east  the  city  is  bounded  almost  entirely  by  the 
Malagash  Lagoon,  an  inlet  of  the  sea.  It  penetrates  to 
at  least  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  the  sea  behind 
or  south  of  Shangani  Point.  Were  these  two  hundred 
and  fifty  yards  cut  through  by  a  ten  foot  ditch,  and  the 
inlet  deepened  slightly,  Zanzibar  city  would  become  an 
island  of  itself,  and  what  wonders  would  it  not  effect  as  to 
health  and  salubrity  !  I  have  never  heard  this  sugges- 
tion made,  but  it  struck  me  that  the  foreign  consuls 
resident  at  Zanzibar  might  suggest  this  work  to  the 
sultan,  and  so  get  the  credit  of  having  made  the  city  as 
healthy  a  place  to  live  in  as  any  near  the  equator.  But 
apropos  of  this,  I  remember  what  Capt.  Webb,  the 
American  Consul,  told  me  on  my  first  arrival,  when  I 
expressed  to  him  my  wonder  at  the  apathy  and  inert- 
ness of  men  born  with  the  indomitable  energy  which  cha- 
racterizes the  Europeans  and  Americans,  of  men  imbued 
with  the  progressive  and  stirring  instincts  of  the  white 
people,  who  yet  allow  themselves  to  dwindle  into  pallid 
phantoms  of  their  kind,  into  hypochondriacal  invalids, 
into  hopeless  believers  in  the  deadliness  of  the  climate, 
with  hardly  a  trace  of  that  daring  and  invincible  spirit 
which  rules  the  world. 

"  Oh/'  said  Capt.  Webb,  "  it  is  all  very  well  for  you  to 
talk  about  energy  and  all  that  kind  of  thing,  but  I 
assure  you  that  a  residence  of  four  or  five  years  on  this 

c 


18 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


island,  among  such  people  as  are  here,  would  make  you 
feel  that  it  was  a  hopeless  task  to  resist  the  influence  of 
the  example  by  which  the  most  energetic  spirits  are 
subdued,  and  to  which  they  must  submit  in  time, 
sooner  or  later.  We  were  all  terribly  energetic  when 
we  first  came  here,  and  struggled  bravely  to  make  i  hings 
go  on  as  we  were  accustomed  to  have  them  at  home, 
but  we  have  found  that  we  were  knocking  our  heads 
against  granite  walls  to  no  purpose  whatever.  These 
fellows — the  Arabs,  the  Banyans,  and  the  Hindis,  you 
can't  make  them  go  faster  by  ever  so  much  scolding  and 
praying,  and  in  a  very  short  time  you  see  the  folly  of 
fighting  against  the  unconquerable.  Be  patient,  and 
don't  fret,  tKat  is  my  advice,  or  you  won't  live  long 
here." 

There  were  three  or  four  intensely  busy  men,  though, 
at  Zanzibar,  who  were  out  at  all  hours  of  the  day.  I  know 
one,  an  American ;  I  fancy  I  hear  the  quick  pit-pat  of  his 
feet  on  the  pavement  beneath  the  Consulate,  his  cheery 
voice  ringing  the  salutation,  "  Yambo  !  "  to  every  one  he 
met ;  and  he  had  lived  at  Zanzibar  twelve  years. 

I  know  another,  one  of  the  sturdiest  of  Scotchmen,  the 
most  pleasant-mannered,  unaffected,  and  sincere  in  what- 
ever he  did  or  said,  who  has  lived  at  Zanzibar  several 
years,  subject  to  the  infructuosities  of  the  business  he  has 
been  engaged  in,  as  well  as  to  the  calor  and  ennui  of 
the  climate,  who  yet  presents  as  formidable  a  front  as 
ever  to  the  apathetic  native  of  Zanzibar.  No  man  can 
charge  Capt.  H.  C.  Fraser,  formerly  of  the  Indian 
Navy,  with  being  apathetic,  whatever  else  malice  may 
suggest. 

I  might  with  ease  give  evidence  of  the  industry  of 
others,  but  they  are  all  my  friends,  and  they  are  all 
good.    The  American,  English,  Germans,  and  French 


Jan.  1871.] 


ZANZIBAR. 


19 


residents  have  ever  treated  me  with  a  courtesy  and 
kindness  I  am  not  disposed  to  forget.  Taken  as  a  body, 
it  would  be  hard  to  find  a  more  generous  or  hospitable 
colony  of  white  men  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

In  a  great  tall  house  with  a  certain  grandeur  of  vast- 
ness  about  it,  topped  with  the  queerest  of  all  steeples, 
situated  on  Shangani  Point,  Bishop  Tozer,  his  disciples, 
his  choristers  and  his  flock,  have  found  excellent  quar- 
ters. The  Bishop,  who  styles  himself "  Missionary  Bishop 
of  Central  Africa,"  is  one  of  the  politest  men  lever  knew. 
I  believe  he  is  called  the  "  fighting  parson  " — a  plagia- 
ristic  appellation  when  bestowed  on  him,  since  Dr. 
Livingstone  first  received  it  from  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 
Bishop  Tozer,  however,  is  said  to  have  fought  an  insolent 
rowdy,  on  his  way  to  church  ;  and  after  having  punished 
him  at  a  boxing-match,  offered  to  punish  his  com- 
panions one  after  another  in  the  same  way,  which  offer 
was  refused.  This  feat  of  pugilism  by  Bishop  Tozer 
converted  these  wolves  into  lambs,  and  won  for  him  the 
title  of  Bishop,  and  the  happy  sinecure  he  holds. 

The  Bishop  in  his  crimson  robe,  and  with  his  sacer- 
dotal title  ''Missionary  Bishop  of  Central  Africa"  (why 
he  should  be  so  named  I  cannot  conceive),  has  reached 
the  bourne  of  aspiring  priesthood,  and  is  consequently 
ineffably  happy.  But  this  High  Church  (very  High 
Church  indeed)  prelate  in  his  crimson  robe  of  office, 
and  in  the  queerest  of  all  head-dresses,  seen  stalking 
through  the  streets  of  Zanzibar,  or  haggling  over  the 
price  of  a  tin-pot  at  a  tinker's  stall,  is  the  most  ridiculous 
sight  I  have  seen  anywhere  outside  of  a  clown  show.  I 
as  a  white  man  solemnly  protest  against  the  absurdity. 
A  similar  picture  to  the  Bishop,  in  his  priestly  robes  and 
a  paper  cap,  in  a  tinker's  stall,  is  the  King  of  Dahomey 
in  a  European  hat  with  his  body  naked,  promenading 

0  2 


21 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


pompously  about  in  this  exquisite  full  dress.  Whatever 
tlie  Bishop  in  his  blissful  innocence  may  think  of  the 
effect  which  it  produces  in  the  minds  of  the  heathen,  I 
can  inform  him,  that  to  the  Arabs  and  Wan  guana  who 
have  settled  in  Unyanyembe  he  is  only  an  object  of 
supreme  ridicule ;  and  also,  that  most  of  his  pale-faced 
brothers  entertain  something  of  the  same  opinion. 

Poor,  dear  Bishop  Tozer !  I  would  fain  love  and 
admire  thee,  were  it  not  for  this  exhibition  of  extreme 
High-Churchism  in  a  place  like  Zanzibar  ! 

The  French  missionaries  have  proceeded  actively  to 
work  in  a  true  practical  spirit.  They  not  only  endea- 
vour to  instil  into  the  minds  of  their  numerous  converts 
the  principles  of  religion,  but  also  to  educate  them  in  the 
business  of  life.  They  teach  their  young  disciples  various 
useful  trades ;  they  produce  agriculturists,  carpenters, 
blacksmiths,  boat-builders,  and  mechanical  engineers 
among  them.  Their  various  departments  of  instruction 
have  able,  efficient,  and  laborious  teachers.  Their 
shops  at  Zanzibar  form  one  of  the  sights  which  a 
stranger  would  wish  to  see.  At  Bagamoyo,  on  the 
mainland,  their  mission  station  is  on  an  extensive  scale. 
The  estate  adjoining  the  mission  station,  cultivated 
by  their  young  pupils,  is  a  model  of  industry ;  and  the 
products  serve  to  more  than  support  the  institution 
with  all  the  necessaries  of  life.  The  converts  and 
pupils  they  are  educating  exceed  more  than  two 
hundred. 


Jan.  1871.! 


CHAPTER  II. 

ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 

I  was  totally  ignorant  of  the  interior,  and  it  was  difficult 
at  first  to  know  what  I  needed,  in  order  to  take  an 
expedition  into  Central  Africa.  Time  was  precious, 
also,  and  much  of  it  could  not  be  devoted  to  inquiry 
and  investigation.  In  a  case  like  this,  it  would  have 
been  a  godsend,  I  thought,  had  either  of  the  three 
gentlemen,  Captains  Burton,  Speke,  or  Grant,  given 
some  information  on  these  points ;  had  they  devoted  a 
chapter  upon,  "  How  to  get  ready  an  Expedition  for 
Central  Africa. "  The  purpose  of  this  chapter,  then,  is 
to  relate  how  I  set  about  it,  that  other  travellers 
coming  after  me  may  have  the  benefit  of  my  expe- 
rience. 

These  are  some  of  the  questions  I  asked  myself,  as  I 
tossed  on  my  bed  at  night : — 

"  How  much  money  is  required  ?  99 
"  How  many  pagazis,  or  carriers?" 
"  How  many  soldiers  ?" 
"  How  much  cloth  ?  " 
"  How  many  beads  ? 99 
"  How  much  wire  ? 99 

"  What  kinds  of  cloth  are  required  for  the  different 
tribes?" 


22 


I10W  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Ever  so  many  questions  to  myself  brought  me  no 
nearer  the  exact  point  I  wished  to  arrive  at.  I  scribbled 
over  scores  of  sheets  of  paper,  making  estimates,  draw 
ing  out  lists  of  material,  calculating  the  cost  of  keeping 
one  hundred  men  for  one  year,  at  so  many  yards  of  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  cloth,  etc.  I  studied  Burton,  Speke, 
and  Grant  in  vain.  A  good  deal  of  geographical 
ethnological,  and  other  information  appertaining  to  the 
study  of  Inner  Africa  was  obtainable,  but  information 
respecting  the  organization  of  an  expedition  requisite 
before  proceeding  to  Africa,  was  not  in  any  book.  I 
threw  the  books  from  me  in  disgust.  The  Europeans 
at  Zanzibar  knew  as  little  as  possible  about  this  par- 
ticular point.  There  was  not  one  white  man  at  Zanzi- 
bar, who  could  tell  how  many  dotis  a  day  a  force  of  one 
hundred  men  required  for  food  on  the  road.  Neither, 
indeed,  was  it  their  business  to  know.  But  what  should 
I  do  at  all,  at  all?    This  was  a  grand  question. 

I  decided  it  were  best  to  hunt  up  an  Arab  merchant 
who  had  been  engaged  in  the  ivory  trade,  or  who  was 
fresh  from  the  interior. 

Sheikh  Hashid  was  a  man  of  note  and  of  wealth  in 
Zanzibar.  He  had  himself  despatched  several  caravans 
into  the  interior,  and  was  necessarily  acquainted  with 
several  prominent  traders  who  came  to  his  house  to 
gossip  about  their  adventures  and  gains.  He  was  also 
the  proprietor  of  the  large  house  Capt.  Webb  occu- 
pied ;  besides,  he  lived  across  the  narrow  street  which 
separated  his  house  from  the  Consulate.  Of  all  men 
Sheikh  Hashid  was  the  man  to  be  consulted,  and  he 
was  accordingly  invited  to  visit  me  at  the  Consulate. 

From  the  grey-bearded  and  venerable-looking 
Sheikh,  I  elicited  more  information  about  African 
currency,  the  mode  of  procedure,  the  quantity  and 


Jan.  1871.]      ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  23 

quality  of  stuffs  I  required,  than  I  had  obtained  from 
three  months  study  of  books  upon  Central  Africa  ;  and 
from  other  Arab  merchants  to  whom  the  ancient  Sheikh 
introduced  me,  I  received  most  valuable  suggestions 
and  hints,  which  enabled  me  at  last  to  organize  an 
expedition. 

The  reader  must  bear  in  mind  that  a  traveller 
requires  only  that  which  is  sufficient  for  travel  and 
exploration ;  that  a  superfluity  of  goods  or  means  will 
prove  as  fatal  to  him  as  poverty  of  supplies.  It  is  on 
this  question  of  quality  and  quantity  that  the  traveller 
has  first  to  exercise  his  judgment  and  discretion. 

My  informants  gave  me  to  understand  that  for  one 
hundred  men,  10  doti,  or  40  yards  of  cloth  per  diem, 
would  suffice  for  food.  The  proper  course  to  pursue,  I 
found,  was  to  purchase  2,000  doti  of  American  sheeting, 
1,000  doti  of  Kaniki,  and  650  doti  of  the  coloured 
cloths,  such  as  Barsati,  a  great  favourite  in  Unyam- 
wezi  ;  Sohari,  taken  in  Ugogo  ;  Ismahili,  Taujiri, 
Joho,  Shash,  Rehani,  Jamdani  or  Kunguru-Cutch, 
blue  and  pink.  These  were  deemed  amply  sufficient 
for  the  subsistence  of  one  hundred  men  for  twelve 
months.  Two  years  at  this  rate  would  require  4000 
doti  =  16,000  yards  of  American  sheeting;  2,000 
doti  =  8,000  yards  of  Kaniki;  1,300  doti  =  5,200 
yards  of  mixed  coloured  cloths.  This  was  definite 
and  valuable  information  to  me,  and  excepting  the  lack 
jf  some  suggestions  as  to  the  quality  of  the  sheeting, 
Kan  ki,  and  coloured  cloths,  I  had  obtained  all  I  desired 
upon  this  point.  Second  in  importance  to  the  amount 
of  cloth  required  was  the  quantity  and  quality  of  the 
beads  necessary.  Beads,  I  was  told,  took  the  place  of 
cloth  currency  among  some  tribes  of  the  interior.  One 
tribe  preferred  white  to  black  beads,  brown  to  yellow, 


84 


BOW  l  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


red  to  green,  green  to  white,  and  so  on.  Thus,  ir 
Unyamwezi,  red  (sami-sami)  beads  would  readily  be 
taken,  where  all  other  kinds  would  be  refused  ;  black 
(bubu)  beads,  though  currency  in  Ugogo,  were  posi- 
tively worthless  with  all  other  tribes ;  the  egg  (sungo- 
mazzi)  beads,  though  valuable  in  Ujiji  and  Uguhha, 
would  be  refused  in  all  other  countries  ;  the  white 
(Merikani)  beads,  though  good  in  Ufipa,  and  some 
parts  of  Usagara  and  Ugogo,  would  certainly  be 
despised  in  Useguhha,  and  Ukonongo.  Such  being  the 
case,  I  was  obliged  to  study  closely,  and  calculate  the 
probable  stay  of  an  expedition  in  the  several  countries, 
so  as  to  be  sure  to  provide  a  sufficiency  of  each  kind, 
and  guard  against  any  great  overplus.  Burton  and 
Spcke,  for  instance,  were  obliged  to  throw  away  as 
worthless  several  hundred  fundo  of  beads. 

For  example,  supposing  the  several  nations  of  Europe 
had  each  its  own  currency,  without  the  means  of 
exchange,  and  supposing  a  man  was  about  to  travel 
through  Europe  on  foot,  before  starting  he  would  be 
apt  to  calculate  how  many  days  it  would  take  him  to 
travel  through  France  ;  how  many  through  Prussia, 
Austria,  and  Russia,  then  to  reckon  the  expense  he 
would  be  likely  to  incur  per  day.  If  the  expense  be 
set  down  at  a  napoleon  per  day,  and  his  journey  through 
France  would  occupy  thirty  days,  the  sum  required  for 
going  and  returning  might  be  properly  set  down  at 
sixty  napoleons,  in  which  case,  napoleons  not  being 
current  money  in  Prussia,  Austria,  or  Russia,  it  would  be 
utterly  useless  for  him  to  burden  himself  with  the  weight 
of  a  couple  of  thousand  napoleons  in  gold. 

My  anxiety  on  this  point  was  most  excruciating. 
Over  and  over  I  studied  the  hard  names  and  measures., 
conned  again  and  again  the  polysyllables,  hoping  to  be 


Jaw.  1871.]     ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


2:» 


able  to  arrive  some  time  at  an  intelligible  definition  of 
the  terms.  I  revolved  in  my  mind  the  words  Mukun- 
guru,  G-hulabio,  Sungomazzi,  Kadunduguru,  Mutunda, 
Sami-sami,  Bubu,  Merikani,  Hafde,  Lunghio-Rega, 
and  Lakhio,  until  I  was  fairly  beside  myself.  Finally, 
however,  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  if  I  reckoned 
my  requirements  at  fifty  khete,  or  five  fundo  per  day, 
for  two  years,  and  if  I  purchased  only  eleven  varieties, 
I  might  consider  myself  safe  enough.  The  purchase 
was  accordingly  made,  and  twenty-two  sacks  of  the 
best  species  were  packed  and  brought  to  Capt.  Webb's 
house,  ready  for  transportation  to  Bagamoyo. 

After  the  beads  came  the  wire  question.  I  discovered, 
after  considerable  trouble,  that  Nos.  5  and  6 — almost 
of  the  thickness  of  telegraph  wire — were  considered  the 
best  numbers  for  trading  purposes.  While  beads  stand 
for  copper  coins  in  Africa,  cloth  measures  for  silver  ; 
wire  is  reckoned  as  gold  in  the  countries  beyond  the 
Tan-ga-ni-ka.*  Ten  frasilah,  or  350  lbs.,  of  brass- wire, 
my  Arab  adviser  thought,  would  be  ample. 

Having  purchased  the  cloth,  the  beads,  and  the  wire, 
it  was  with  no  little  pride  that  I  surveyed  the  comely 
bales  and  packages  lying  piled  up,  row  above  row,  in 
Capt.  Webb's  capacious  store-room.  Yet  my  work  was 
not  ended,  it  was  but  beginning  ;  there  were  provisions, 
cooking-utensils,  boats,  rope,  twine,  tents,  donkeys, 
saddles,  bagging,  canvas,  tar,  needles,  tools,  ammu- 
nition, guns,  equipments,  hatchets,  medicines,  bedding, 
presents  for  chiefs — in  short,  a  thousand  things  not  yet 
purchased.  The  ordeal  of  chaffering  and  haggling 
with  steel-hearted  Banyans,  Hindis,  Arabs,  and  half- 
castes  was  most  trying.    For  instance,  I  purchased 

*  It  will  be  seen  that  I  differ  from  Capt.  Burton  in  the  spelling 
of  this  word,  as  I  deem  the  letter  "  y  "  superfluous. 


26 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


twenty-two  donkeys  at  Zanzibar.  $40  and  $50  were 
asked,  which  I  had  to  reduce  to  $15  or  $20  by  an 
infinite  amount  of  argument  worthy,  I  think,  of  a  nobler 
cause.  As  was  my  experience  with  the  ass-dealers  so  it 
was  with  the  petty  merchants;  even  a  paper  of  pins 
was  not  purchased  without  a  five  per  cent,  reduction 
from  the  price  demanded,  involving,  of  course,  a  loss 
of  much  time  and  patience. 

After  collecting  the  donkeys,  I  discovered  there  werp 
no  pack-saddles  to  be  obtained  in  Zanzibar.  Donkeys 
without  pack-saddles  were  of  no  use  whatever.  I  in- 
vented a  saddle  to  be  manufactured  by  myself  and  my 
white  man  Farquhar,  wholly  from  canvas,  rope,  and 
cotton. 

Three  or  four  frasilahs  of  cotton,  and  ten  bolts  of 
canvas  were  required  for  the  saddles.  A  specimen 
saddle  was  made  by  myself  in  order  to  test  its  efficiency. 
A  donkev  was  taken  and  saddled,  and  a  load  of  140  lbs. 
was  fastened  to  it,  and  though  the  animal — a  wild 
creature  of  Unyamwezi — struggled  and  reared  franti- 
cally, not  a  particle  gave  way.  After  this  experiment, 
Farquhar  was  set  to  work  to  manufacture  twenty-one 
more  after  the  same  pattern.  Woollen  pads  were  also 
purchased  to  protect  the  animals  from  being  galled.  It 
ought  to  be  mentioned  here,  perhaps,  that  the  idea  of 
such  a  saddle  as  I  manufactured,  was  first  derived  from 
the  Otago  saddle,  in  use  among  the  transport-trains  of 
the  English  army  in  Abyssinia. 

A  man  named  John  William  Shaw — a  native  of 
London,  England,  lately  third-mate  of  the  American 
ship  4  Nevada  ' — applied  to  me  for  work.  Though  his 
discharge  from  the  6  Nevada '  was  rather  suspicious, 
yet  he  possessed  all  the  requirements  of  such  a  man  as 
I  needed,  and  was  an  experienced  hand  with  the  palm 


Jan.  1871.]      ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


27 


and  needle,  could  cut  canvas  to  fit  anything,  was  a 
pretty  good  navigator,  ready  and  willing,  as  far  as  bis 
professions  went.  I  saw  no  reason  to  refuse  his  services, 
and  he  was  accordingly  engaged  at  $300  per  annum, 
to  rank  second  to  William  L.  Farquhar. 

Farquhar  was  a  capital  navigator  and  excellent  ma- 
thematician ;  was  strong,  energetic,  and  clever ;  but,  I 
am  sorry  to  say,  a  hard  drinker.  Every  day,  while  we 
lived  at  Zanzibar,  he  was  in  a  muddled  condition,  and 
the  dissipated,  vicious  life  he  led  at  this  place  proved 
fatal  to  him,  as  will  be  seen,  shortly  after  penetrating 
into  the  interior. 

The  next  thing  I  was  engaged  upon  was  to  enlist, 
arm,  and  equip,  a  faithful  escort  of  twenty  men  for  the 
road.  Johari,  the  chief  dragoman  of  the  American 
Consulate,  informed  me  that  he  knew  where  certain  of 
Speke's  "  Faithfuls  "  were  yet  to  be  found.  The  idea 
had  struck  me  before,  that  if  I  could  obtain  the  services 
of  a  few  men  acquainted  with  the  ways  of  white  men, 
and  who  could  induce  other  good  men  to  join  the 
expedition  I  was  organizing,  I  might  consider  myself 
fortunate.  More  especially  had  I  thought  of  Seedy 
Mbarak  Mombay,  commonly  called  "  Bombay,"  who 
though  his  head  was  "  woodeny,"  and  his  hands 
<;  clumsy,"  was  considered  to  be  the  "  faithfulest  *  of 
the  "Faithfuls." 

With  the  aid  of  the  dragoman  Johari,  I  secured  in  a 
few  hours  the  services  of  Uledi  (Capt.  Grant's  former 
valet),  Ulimengo,  Baruti,  Ambari,  Mabruki  (Muinyi 
Mabruki — Bull-headed  Mabruki,  Capt.  Burton  s  former 
unhappy  valet) — five  of  Speke's  "  Faithfuls."  When  I 
asked  them  if  they  were  willing  to  join  another  white 
man's  expedition  to  Ujiji,  they  replied  very  readily  that 
they  were  willing  to  join  any  brother  of  "  Speke's." 


2s 


HOW  l  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Dr.  John  Kirk,  Her  Majesty's  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  who 
was  present,  told  them  that  though  I  was  no  brother 
of  "  Speke's,"  I  spoke  his  language.  This  distinction 
mattered  little  to  them,  and  I  heard  them,  with  great 
delight,  declare  their  readiness  to  go  anywhere  with 
me,  or  do  anything  I  wished. 

Mombay,  as  they  called  him,  or  Bombay,  as  we 
Wasungu  know  him,  had  gone  to  Pemba,  an  island  ly- 
ing north  of  Zanzibar.  Uledi  was  sure  Mombay  would 
jump  with  joy  at  the  prospect  of  another  expedition. 
Johari  was  therefore  commissioned  to  write  to  him 
at  Pemba,  to  inform  him  of  the  good  fortune  in  store 
for  him. 

On  the  fourth  morning  after  the  letter  had  been 
despatched,  the  famous  Bombay  made  his  appearance, 
followed  in  decent  order  and  due  rank  by  the  "  Faith- 
fuls" of  "  Speke."  I  looked  in  vain  for  the  "  woodeny 
head"  and  "alligator  teeth"  with  which  his  former 
master  had  endowed  him.  I  saw  a  slender  short  man 
of  fifty  or  thereabouts,  with  a  grizzled  head,  an  un- 
commonly high,  narrow  forehead,  with  a  very  large 
mouth,  showing  teeth  very  irregular,  and  wide  apart. 
An  ugly  rent  in  the  upper  front  row  of  Bombay's 
teeth  was  made  with  the  clenched  fist  of  Capt.  Speke 
in  Uganda,  when  his  master's  patience  was  worn  out, 
and  prompt  punishment  became  necessary.  That  Capt. 
Speke  had  spoiled  him  with  kindness  was  evident, 
from  the  fact  that  Bombay  had  the  audacity  to  stand  up 
for  a  boxing  match  with  him.  But  these  things  I  only 
found  out  when,  months  afterwards,  I  was  called  upon 
to  administer  punishment  to  him  myself.  But,  at 
his  first  appearance,  I  was  favourably  impressed  with 
Bombay,  though  his  face  was  rugged,  his  mouth  large, 
his  eyes  small,  and  his  nose  flat. 


Jan.  1871.]      ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


29 


"  Salaam  aliekum,"  were  the  words  be  greeted  me 
with. 

"  Aliekum  salaam,"  I  replied,  with  all  the  gravity  I 
could  muster.  I  then  informed  him  I  required  him  as 
captain  of  my  soldiers  to  Ujiji.  His  reply  was  that  he 
was  ready  to  do  whatever  I  told  him,  go  wherever  I 
liked — in  short,  be  a  pattern  to  servants,  and  a  model 
to  soldiers.  He  hoped  I  would  give  him  a  uniform, 
and  a  good  gun,  both  of  which  were  promised. 

Upon  inquiring  for  the  rest  of  the  "  Faithfuls  "  who 
accompanied  Speke  into  Egypt,  I  was  told  that  at 
Zanzibar  there  were  but  six.  Ferrajji,  Maktub,  Sadik, 
Sunguru,  Manyu,  Matajari,  Mkata,  and  Almas,  were 
dead ;  Uledi  and  Mtamani  were  in  Unyanyembe ; 
Hassan  had  gone  to  Kilwa,  and  Ferahan  was  supposed 
to  be  in  Ujiji. 

Out  of  the  six  "  Faithfuls,"  each  of  whom  still  retained 
his  medal  for  assisting  in  the  "  Discovery  of  the  Sources 
of  the  Nile,"  one,  poor  Mabruki,  had  met  with  a  sad 
misfortune  which  I  feared  would  incapacitate  him  from 
active  usefulness. 

Mabruki  the  "  Bull-headed,"  owned  a  shamba  (or  a 
house  with  a  garden  attached  to  it),  of  which  he  was 
very  proud.  Close  to  him  lived  a  neighbour  in  similar 
circumstances,  who  was  a  soldier  of  Syed  Majid,  with 
whom  Mabruki,  who  was  of  a  quarrelsome  disposition, 
had  a  feud,  which  culminated  in  the  soldier  inducing 
two  or  three  of  his  comrades  to  assist  him  in  punish- 
ing the  malevolent  Mabruki,  and  this  was  done  in  a 
manner  that  only  the  heart  of  an  African  could  con- 
ceive. They  tied  the  unfortunate  fellow  by  his  wrists 
to  a  branch  of  a  tree,  and  after  indulging  their  brutal 
appetite  for  revenge  in  torturing  him,  left  him  to  hang 
in  that  position  for  two  days.    At  the  expiration  of 


30 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  second  day,  he  was  accidentally  discovered  in  a 
most  pitiable  condition.  His  hands  had  swollen  to  an 
immense  size,  and  the  veins  of  one  hand  having  been 
ruptured,  he  had  lost  its  use.  It  is  needless  to  say  that, 
when  the  affair  came  to  Syed  Majid's  ears,  the  miscreants 
were  severely  punished.  Dr.  Kirk,  who  attended  the 
poor  fellow,  succeeded  in  restoring  one  hand  to  some- 
thing of  a  resemblance  of  its  former  shape,  but  the  other 
hand  is  sadly  marred,  and  its  former  usefulness  gone 
for  ever. 

However,  I  engaged  Mabruki,  despite  his  deformed 
hands,  his  ugliness  and  vanity,  despite  Burton's  bad 
report  of  him,  because  he  was  one  of  Speke's  "  Faith- 
fuls." For  if  he  but  wagged  his  tongue  in  my 
service,  kept  his  eyes  open,  and  opened  his  mouth  at 
the  proper  time,  I  assured  myself  I  could  make  him 
useful. 

Bombay,  my  captain  of  escort,  succeeded  in  getting 
eighteen  more  free  men  to  volunteer  as  "  askari " 
(soldiers),  men  whom  he  knew  would  not  desert,  and 
for  whom  he  declared  himself  responsible.  They  were 
an  exceedingly  fine-looking  body  of  men,  far  more 
intelligent  in  appearance  than  I  could  ever  have 
believed  African  barbarians  could  be.  They  hailed 
principally  from  Uhiyow,  others  from  Unyamwezi,  some 
came  from  Useguhha  and  Ugindo. 

Their  wages  were  set  down  at  $36  each  man  per 
annum,  or  $3  each  per  month.  Each  soldier  was  pro- 
vided with  a  flintlock,  musket,  powder  horn,  bullet, 
pouch,  knife,  and  hatchet,  besides  enough  powder  and 
ball  for  200  rounds. 

Bombay,  in  consideration  of  his  rank,  and  previous 
faithful  services  to  Burton,  Speke,  and  Grant,  was  en- 
gaged at  $80  a  year,  half  that  sum  in  advance,  a  good 


Jan.  1871.]     ORGANIZATION  OF  TEE  EXPEDITION. 


31 


muzzle-loading  rifle,  besides,  a  pistol,  knife,  and  hatchet 
were  given  to  him,  while  the  other  five  "  Faithfuls," 
Ambari,  Mabruki,  Ulimengo,  Baruti,  and  Uledi,  were 
engaged  at  $40  a  year,  with  proper  equipments  as 
soldiers. 

Having  studied  fairly  well  all  the  East  African 
travellers'  books  regarding  Eastern  and  Central  Africa, 
my  mind  had  conceived  the  difficulties  which  would 
present  themselves  during  the  prosecution  of  my  search 
after  Dr.  Livingstone. 

To  obviate  all  of  these,  as  well  as  human  wit  could 
suggest,  was  my  constant  thought  and  aim. 

"  Shall  I  permit  myself,  while  looking  from  Ujiji  over 
the  waters  of  the  Tanganika  Lake  to  the  other  side, 
to  be  balked  on  the  threshold  of  success  by  the  insolence 
of  a  King  Kannena  or  the  caprice  of  a  Hamed  bin 
Sulayyam  ?  "  was  a  question  I  asked  myself.  To  guard 
against  such  a  contingency  I  determined  to  carry  my 
own  boats.  "  Then,"  I  thought,  "  if  I  hear  of  Livingstone 
being  on  the  Tanganika,  I  can  launch  my  boat  and 
proceed  after  him." 

I  procured  one  large  boat,  capable  of  carrying  twenty 
persons,  with  stores  and  goods  sufficient  for  a  cruise, 
from  the  American  Consul,  for  the  sum  of  $80,  and  a 
smaller  one  from  another  American  gentleman  for  $40. 
The  latter  would  hold  comfortably  six  men,  with  suit- 
able stores. 

I  did  not  intend  to  carry  the  boats  whole  or  bodily, 
but  to  strip  them  of  their  boards,  and  carry  the  timbers 
and  thwarts  only.  As  a  substitute  for  the  boards,  I 
proposed  to  cover  each  boat  with  a  double  canvas  skin 
well  tarred.  The  work  of  stripping  them  and  taking 
them  to  pieces  fell  to  me.  This  little  job  occupied  me 
five  days.    I  also  packed  them  up,  for  the  pagazis. 


32 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Each  load  was  carefully  weighed,  and  none  exceeded 
68  lbs.  in  weight. 

John  Shaw  excelled  himself  in  the  workmanship  dis- 
played on  the  canvas-boats  ;  when  finished,  they  fitted 
their  frames  admirably.  The  canvas — six  bolts  of  Eng- 
lish hemp,  No.  3 — was  procured  from  Ludhai  Damj, 
who  furnished  it  from  the  sultan's  storeroom. 

An  insuperable  obstacle  to  rapid  transit  in  Africa  is 
the  want  of  carriers,  and  as  speed  was  the  main  object 
of  the  Expedition  under  my  command,  my  duty  was  to 
lessen  this  difficulty  as  much  as  possible.  My  carriers 
could  only  be  engaged  after  arriving  at  Bagamoyo, 
on  the  mainland.  I  had  over  twenty  good  donkeys 
ready,  and  I  thought  a  cart  adapted  for  the  goat- 
paths  of  Africa  might  prove  an  advantage.  Accord- 
ingly I  had  a  cart  constructed,  eighteen  inches  wide 
and  five  feet  long,  supplied  with  two  fore-wheels  of  a 
light  American  wagon,  more  for  the  purpose  of  con- 
veying the  narrow  ammunition-boxes.  I  estimated 
that  if  a  donkey  could  carry  to  Unyanyembe  a  load  of 
four  frasilahs,  or  140  lbs.,  he  ought  to  be  able  to  draw 
eight  frasilahs  on  such  a  cart,  which  would  be  equal  to 
the  carrying  capacity  of  four  stout  pagazis  or  carriers. 
Events  will  prove,  how  my  theories  were  borne  out  by 
practice. 

When  my  purchases  were  completed,  and  I  beheld 
them  piled  up,  tier  after  tier,  row  upon  row,  here  a 
mass  of  cooking-utensils,  there  bundles  of  rope,  tents, 
saddles,  a  pile  of  portmanteaus  and  boxes,  containing 
every  imaginable  thing,  I  confess  I  was  rather  abashed 
at  my  own  temerity.  Here  were  at  least  six  tons  of 
material !  "  How  will  it  ever  be  possible,"  I  thought, 
"to  move  all  this  inert  mass  across  the  wilderness 
stretching  between  the  sea,  and  the  great  lakes  of 


Jan.  1871.]    ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


33 


Africa  ?  Bah,  cast  all  doubts  away,  man,  and  have  at 
them  !  '  Sufficient  for  the  day  is  the  evil  thereof,'  with- 
out borrowing  from  the  morrow." 

The  traveller,  with  a  lake  in  the  centre  of  that 
broad  African  continent  before  him,  must  needs  make 
his  way  there  after  a  fashion  very  different  from  that  to 
which  he  has  been  accustomed  in  other  countries.  He 
requires  to  take  with  him  just  what  a  ship  must  have 
when  about  to  sail  on  a  long  voyage.  He  must  have 
his  slop  chest,  his  little  store  of  canned  dainties,  and  his 
medicines,  besides  which,  he  must  have  enough  guns, 
powder,  and  ball  to  be  able  to  make  a  series  of  good 
fights  if  necessary.  He  must  have  men  to  convey  these 
miscellaneous  articles  ;  and  as  a  man's  maximum  load 
does  not  exceed  70  lbs.,  to  convey  11,000  lbs.  requires 
nearly  160  men. 

Europe  and  the  Orient,  even  Arabia  and  Turkestan, 
have  royal  ways  of  travelling  compared  to  Africa. 
Specie  is  received  in  all  those  countries,  by  which  a 
traveller  may  carry  his  means  about  with  him  on  his 
own  person.  Eastern  and  Central  Africa,  however, 
demand  a  necklace,  instead  of  a  cent ;  two  yards  of 
American  sheeting,  instead  of  half  a  dollar,  or  a  florin 
and  a  kitindi  of  thick  brass-wire,  in  place  of  a  gold  piece. 

The  African  traveller  can  hire  neither  wagons  nor 
camels,  neither  horses  nor  mules,  to  proceed  with  him 
into  the  interior.  His  means  of  conveyance  are  limited 
to  black  and  naked  men,  who  demand  at  least  $15  a 
head  for  every  70  lbs.  weight  carried  only  as  far  as 
Unyanyembe. 

One  thing  amongst  others  my  predecessors  omitted 
to  inform  men  bound  for  Africa,  which  is  of  importance, 
and  that  is,  that  no  traveller  should  ever  think  of  coining 
to  Zanzibar  with  his  money  in  any  other  shape  than 

i  \ 


34 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


gold  coin.  Letters  of  credit,  circular  notes,  and  such 
civilized  things  I  have  found  to  be  a  century  ahead  of 
Zanzibar  people. 

Twenty  and  twenty-five  cents  deducted  out  of  every 
dollar  I  drew  on  paper  is  one  of  the  unpleasant,  if  not 
unpleasantest  things  I  have  committed  to  lasting 
memory.  For  Zanzibar  is  a  spot  far  removed  from 
all  avenues  of  European  commerce,  and  coin  is  at  a 
high  premium.  A  man  may  talk  and  entreat,  but  though 
he  may  have  drafts,  cheques,  circular  notes,  letters  of 
credit,  a  cavte-blanche  to  get  what  he  wants,  out  of 
every  dollar  must  be  deducted  twenty,  twenty-five  and 
thirty  cents,  so  I  was  told,  and  so  was  my  experience. 
What  a  pity  there  is  no  branch-bank  here  ! 

I  had  intended  to  have  gone  into  Africa  incognito. 
But  the  fact  that  a  white  man,  even  an  American,  was 
about  to  enter  Africa  was  soon  known  all  over 
Zanzibar.  This  fact  was  repeated  a  thousand  times  in 
the  streets,  proclaimed  in  all  shop  alcoves,  and  at  the 
custom-house.  The  native  bazaar  laid  hold  of  it,  and 
agitated  it  day  and  night  until  my  departure.  The 
foreigners,  including  the  Europeans,  wished  to  know 
the  pros  and  cons  of  my  coming  in  and  going  out. 

My  answer  to  all  questions,  pertinent  and  impertinent, 
was,  I  am  going  to  Africa.  Though  my  card  bore  the 
words 


Henry  M.  Stanley. 
New  York  Herald. 


very  tew,  I  believe,  ever  coupled  the  words  "  New 


Jan.  1871.]     ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


35 


York  Herald "  with  a  search  after  "  Doctor  Living- 
stone."   It  was  not  my  fault,  was  it  ? 

Ah,  me !  what  hard  work  it  is  to  start  an  expedition 
alone  !  What  with  hurrying  through  the  baking  heat 
of  the  fierce  relentless  sun  from  shop  to  shop, 
strengthening  myself  with  far-reaching  and  enduring 
patience  for  the  haggling  contest  with  the  livid-faced 
Hindi,  summoning  courage  and  wit  to  brow-beat  the 
villainous  Goanese,  and  match  the  foxy  Banyan,  talking 
volumes  throughout  the  day,  correcting  estimates, 
making  up  accounts,  superintending  the  delivery  of  pur- 
chased articles,  measuring  and  weighing  them,  to  see 
that  everything  was  of  full  measure  and  weight,  over- 
seeing the  white  men  Farquhar  and  Shaw,  who  were 
busy  on  donkey  saddles,  sails,  tents,  and  boats  for  the 
Expedition,  I  felt,  when  the  day  was  over,  as  though 
limbs  and  brain  well  deserved  their  rest.  Such  labours 
were  mine  unremittingly  for  a  month. 

Having  bartered  drafts  on  Mr.  James  Gordon 
Bennett  to  the  amount  of  several  thousand  dollars  for 
cloth,  beads,  wire,  donkeys,  and  a  thousand  necessaries, 
having  advanced  pay  to  the  white  men,  and  black  escort 
of  the  Expedition,  having  fretted  Capt.  Webb  and  his 
family  more  than  enough  with  the  din  of  preparation, 
and  filled  his  house  with  my  goods,  there  was  nothing 
further  to  do  but  to  leave  my  formal  adieus  with  the 
Europeans,  and  thank  the  Sultan  and  those  gentlemen 
who  had  assisted  me,  before  embarking  for  Bagamoyo. 

The  day  before  my  departure  from  Zanzibar  the 
American  Consul,  having  just  habited  himself  in  his 
black  coat,  and  taking  with  him  an  extra  black  hat, 
in  order  to  be  in  state  apparel,  proceeded  with  me  to 
the  Sultan's  palace.  The  Prince  had  been  generous 
to  me ;  he  had  presented  me  with  an  Arab  horse,  had 

d  2 


36 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


furnished  nie  with  letters  of  introduction  to  his  agents, 
his  chief  men,  and  representatives  in  the  interior,  and 
in  many  other  ways  had  shown  himself  well  disposed 
towards  me. 

The  palace  is  a  large,  roomy,  lofty,  square  house 
close  to  the  fort,  built  of  coral,  and  plastered  thickly 
with  lime  mortar.  In  appearance  it  is  half  Arabic  and 
half  Italian.  The  shutters  are  Venetian  blinds  painted 
a  vivid  green,  and  presenting  a  striking  contrast  to  the 
whitewashed  walls.  Before  the  great,  lofty,  wide 
door  were  ranged  in  two  crescents  several  Baluch 
and  Persian  mercenaries,  armed  with  curved  swords 
and  targes  of  rhinoceros  hide.  Their  dress  was  a 
muddy-white  cotton  shirt,  reaching  to  the  ancles, 
girdled  with  a  leather  belt  thickly  studded  with  silver 
bosses. 

As  we  came  in  sight  a  signal  was  passed  to  some 
person  inside  the  entrance.  When  within  twenty  yards 
of  the  door,  the  Sultan,  who  was  standing  waiting, 
came  down  the  steps,  and,  passing  through  the  ranks, 
advanced  toward  us,  with  his  right  hand  stretched  out, 
and  a  genial  smile  of  welcome  on  his  face.  On  our 
side  we  raised  our  hats,  and  shook  hands  with  him,  after 
which,  doing  according  as  he  bade  us,  we  passed  forward, 
and  arrived  on  the  highest  step  near  the  entrance  door. 
He  pointed  forward  ;  we  bowed,  and  arrived  at  the  foot 
of  an  unpainted  and  narrow  staircase  to  turn  once  more 
to  the  Sultan.  Go  on,"  he  said,  and  we  ascended  the 
stairs  with  my  feelings  greatly  shocked,  for  the  Sultan 
coming  immediately  after  me,  was  placed  in  a  most 
ignominious  position  for  a  sovereign  prince.  The 
Consul,  I  perceived,  was  ascending  sideways,  a  mode 
of  progression  which  I  saw  was  intended  for  a  compro- 
mise with  decency  and  dignity  ;  I  imitated  him  as  well 


Jan.  1871.J     ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


37 


as  I  was  able,  but  I  nevertheless  thought  my  position 
rather  peculiar.  At  the  top  of  the  stairs  we  waited, 
with  our  faces  towards  the  up-coming  Prince.  Again 
we  were  waived  magnanimously  forward,  for  before  us 
was  the  reception  hall  and  throne-room.  I  noticed,  as  I 
marched  forward  to  the  furthest  end,  that  the  room  was 
high,  and  painted  in  the  Arabic  style,  that  the  carpet 
was  thick  and  of  Persian  fabric,  that  the  furniture  con- 
sisted of  a  dozen  gilt  chairs  and  a  chandelier. 

We  were  seated ;  Ludha  Damji,  the  Banyan  collector 
of  customs,  a  venerable-looking  old  man,  with  a  shrewd 
intelligent  face,  sat  on  the  right  of  the  Sultan  ;  next  to 
him  was  the  great  Mohammedan  merchant,  Tarya 
Topan,  who  had  come  to  be  present  at  the  interview, 
not  only  because  he  was  one  of  the  councillors  of  His 
Highness,  but  because  he  also  took  a  lively  interest 
in  this  American  Expedition.  Opposite  to  Ludha  sat 
Capt.  Webb,  and  next  to  him  I  was  seated,  opposite 
Tarya  Topan.  The  Sultan  sat  in  a  gilt  chair  between 
the  Americans  and  the  councillors.  Johari  the  drago- 
man stood  humbly  before  the  Sultan,  expectant  and 
ready  to  interpret  what  we  had  to  communicate  to 
the  Prince. 

The  Sultan,  so  far  as  dress  goes,  might  be  taken  for  a 
Mingrelian  gentleman,  excepting,  indeed,  for  the  turban, 
whose  ample  folds  in  alternate  colours  of  red,  yellow, 
brown,  and  white,  encircled  his  head.  His  long  robe 
was  of  dark  cloth,  cinctured  round  the  waist  with  his 
rich  sword-belt,  from  which  was  suspended  a  gold-hilted 
scimitar,  encased  in  a  scabbard  also  enriched  with  gold 
His  legs  and  feet  were  bare,  and  had  a  ponderous  look 
about  them,  since  he  suffered  from  that  strange  curse 
of  Zanzibar  —  elephantiasis.  His  feet  were  slipped 
into  a  pair  of  watta  (Arabic  for  slippers),  with  thick 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


soles,  and  a  strong  leathern  band  over  the  instep.  His 
light  complexion  and  his  correct  features,  which  are 
intelligent  and  regular,  bespeak  the  Arab  patrician. 
They  indicate,  however,  nothing  except  his  high  descent 
and  blood  ;  no  traits  of  character  are  visible  unless  there 
is  just  a  trace  of  amiability,  and  perfect  contentment 
with  himself  and  all  around. 

Such  is  Prince,  or  Syed  Burghash,  Sultan  of  Zanzi- 
bar and  Pemba,  and  the  East  coast  of  Africa,  from 
Somali  Land  to  the  Mozambique,  as  he  appeared  to  me. 

Coffee  was  served  in  cups  supported  by  golden  fin- 
jans,  also  some  cocoa-nut  milk,  and  rich  sweet  sherbet. 

The  conversation  began  with  the  question  addressed 
to  the  Consul, 

6i  Are  you  well  ?" 

Consul — "  Yes,  thank  you.    How  is  His  Highness  ?" 
Highness. — "  Quite  well !" 
Highness  to  me. — "  Are  you  well  ?" 
Answer. — "  Quite  well,  thanks  !  " 
The  Consul  now  introduces  business ;  and  questions 
about  my  travels  follow  from  His  Highness — 
"  How  do  you  like  Persia  ?" 

"Have  you  seen  Kerbela,  Bagdad,  Masr,  Stamboul  ?" 

"  Have  the  Turks  many  soldiers  ?  " 

"  How  many  has  Persia  ?  " 

"  Is  Persia  fertile  ?  " 

"  How  do  you  like  Zanzibar  ? 99 

Having  answered  each  question  to  his  Highness 
satisfaction,  he  handed  me  letters  of  introduction  to  his 
officers  at  Bagamoyo  and  Kaole,  and  a  general  intro- 
ductory letter  to  all  Arab  merchants  whom  I  might 
meet  on  the  road,  and  concluded  his  remarks  to  me, 
with  the  expressed  hope,  that  on  whatever  mission  I 
was  bound,  I  should  be  perfectly  successful. 


Feb.  1871.]     ORGANIZATION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION.  3€ 

We  bowed  ourselves  out  of  his  presence  in  much  the 
same  manner  that  we  had  bowed  ourselves  in,  he 
accompanying  us  to  the  great  entrance  door. 

Mr.  Goodhue  of  Salem,  an  American  merchant  long 
resident  in  Zanzibar,  presented  me,  as  I  gave  him  my 
adieu,  with  a  blooded  bay  horse,  imported  from  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  and  worth,  at  least  at  Zanzibar,  8500. 

Feb.  j. — By  the  4th  of  February,  twenty-eight  days 
from  the  date  of  my  arrival  at  Zanzibar,  the  organization 
and  equipment  of  the  "  New  York  Herald  Expedition  " 
was  complete  ;  tents  and  saddles  had  been  manufac- 
tured, boats  and  sails  were  ready.  The  donkeys  brayed, 
and  the  horses  neighed  impatiently  for  the  road. 

Etiquette  demanded  that  I  should  once  more  present 
my  card  to  the  European  and  American  Consuls  at 
Zanzibar,  and  the  word  ''farewell  "  was  said  to  every- 
body. 

On  the  fifth  day,  four  dhows  were  anchored  before 
the  American  Consulate.  Into  one  were  lifted  the  two 
horses,  into  two  others  the  donkeys,  into  the  fourth, 
the  largest,  the  black  escort,  and  bulky  moneys  of  the 
Expedition. 

When  about  to  give  the  order  to  sail,  the  two  white 
men,  Farquhar  and  Shaw,  were  absent.  They  were 
found,  after  a  vigorous  hunt,  among  the  liquor  shops, 
surrounded  by  about  a  dozen  boon  companions,  hold- 
ing forth  upon  the  greatness  of  the  art  of  African 
exploration,  trying  to  stave  off  with  the  aid  of  whiskv 
the  dread  presentiments  that  would  insidiously  now  and 
then  obtrude  themselves  into  their  minds,  warning  them 
that  though  new  lands  were  about  to  be  revealed  tc 
them,  with  all  the  fantastic  scenes  credited  to  the  new 
country,  there  might  be  something  in  these  strange 
parts  that  might — "  well,  what  ?" 


40 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


"  Get  into  the  dhows  at  once,  men.  This  is  rather  a 
bad  beginning  after  signing  contracts,"  I  said,  as  I  saw 
them  reeling  to  the  beach  in  company  of  Bombay,  and 
four  or  five  of  the  newly-enlisted  escort. 

"  If  you  please,  sir,  may  I  ask  if — if — if  you  think  I 
have  done  quite  right  in  promising  to  go  with  you  to 
Afriky  ?"  asked  Shaw,  in  a  most  hesitating  and  dolor- 
ous tone. 

"  Have  you  not  received  your  advance  ?  Have  you 
not  signed  the  contract  ?"  I  asked ;  "  and  do  you  now 
wish  to  withdraw  ?  Get  into  the  boat,  man,  at  once. 
We  are  all  in  for  it  now,  sink  or  swim,  live  or  die — 
none  can  desert  his  duty." 

A  little  before  noon  we  set  sail.  The  American  flag, 
a  present  to  the  Expedition  by  that  kind-hearted  lady, 
Mrs.  Webb,  was  raised  to  the  mast-head;  the  Consul,  his 
lady,  and  exuberant  little  children,  Mary  and  Charley, 
were  on  the  housetop  waving  the  starry  banner,  hats, 
and  handkerchiefs,  a  token  of  farewell  to  me  and  mine. 
Happy  people,  and  good  !  may  their  course  and  ours  be 
prosperous,  and  may  God's  blessing  rest  on  us  all ! 


I 


CAMP  AT  BAGAMOYO 


CHAPTER  III. 

LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO. 

The  Isle  of  Zanzibar  with  its  groves  of  cocoa-nut, 
mango,  clove,  and  cinnamon,  and  its  sentinel  islets  of 
Chumbi  and  French,  with  its  whitewashed  city  and  jack- 
fruit  odor,  with  its  harbor  and  ships  that  tread  the  deep, 
faded  slowly  from  view,  and  looking  westward,  the 
African  continent  rose,  a  similar  bank  of  green  verdure 
to  that  which  had  just  receded  till  it  was  a  mere  sinuous 
line  above  the  horizon,  looming  in  a  northerly  direction 
to  the  sublimity  of  a  mountain  chain.  The  distance 
across  from  Zanzibar  to  Bagamoyo  may  be  about  twenty- 
five  miles,  yet  it  took  the  dull  and  lazy  dhows  ten  hours 
before  they  dropped  anchor  on  the  top  of  the  coral 
reef  plainly  visible  a  few  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
water,  within  a  hundred  yards  of  the  beach. 


42 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  newly-enlisted  soldiers,  fond  of  noise  and  excite- 
ment, discharged  repeated  salvos  by  way  of  a  salute  to 
the  mixed  crowd  of  Arabs,  Banyans  and  Wasawahili, 
who  stood  on  the  beach  to  receive  the  Musungu  (white 
man),  which  they  did  wTith  a  general  stare  and  a  chorus 
of  "  Yambo,  Bana  ?"  (how  are  you,  master  ?) 

In  our  own  land  the  meeting  with  a  large  crowd  is 
rather  a  tedious  operation,  as  our  independent  citizens 
insist  on  an  interlacing  of  digits,  and  a  vigorous  shaking 
thereof  before  their  pride  is  satisfied;,  and  the  peaceful 
manifestation  endorsed ;  but  on  this  beach,  well  lined 
with  spectators,  a  response  of  "Yambo,  Bana!"  sufficed, 
except  with  one  who  of  all  there  was  acknowledged  the 
greatest,  and  who,  claiming,  like  all  great  men,  indi- 
vidual attention,  came  forward  to  exchange  another 
"Yambo!"  on  his  own  behalf,  and  to  shake  hands 
This  personage  with  a  long  trailing  turban,  was  Jema- 
dar Esau,  commandant  (French),  commander  (English)  ( 
of  the  Zanzibar  force  of  soldiers,  police,  or  Baluch  gen- 
darmes stationed  at  Bagamoyo.  He  had  accompanied 
Speke  and  Grant  a  good  distance  into  the  interior, 
and  they,  like  all  English  travellers,  had  rewarded 
him  liberally.  He  took  upon  himself  the  responsibility 
of  assisting  in  the  debarkation  of  the  Expedition,  and 
unworthy  as  was  his  appearance,  disgraceful  as  he  was 
in  his  filth,  and  with  his  hirsute  face,  I  here  commend 
him  for  his  influence  over  the  rabble  to  all  future  East 
African  travellers.  Foremost  among  those  who  wel- 
comed us  was  a  Father  of  the  Society  of  St. -Esprit,  who 
with  other  Jesuits,  under  Father  Superior  Horner,  have 
established  a  missionary  post  of  considerable  influence 
and  merit  at  Bagamoyo.  We  were  invited  to  partake 
of  the  hospitality  of  the  Mission,  to  take  our  meals 
there,  and,  should  we  desire  it,  to  pitch  our  camp  on 


Feb.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO. 


43 


their  grounds.  But  however  strong  the  geniality  of 
the  welcome  and  sincere  the  heartiness  of  the  invita- 
tion, I  am  one  of  those  who  prefer  independence  to 
dependence  if  it  is  possible.  Besides,  my  sense  of  the 
obligation  between  host  and  guest  had  just  had  a  fine 
edge  put  upon  it  by  the  delicate  forbearance  of  my 
kind  host  at  Zanzibar,  who  had  betrayed  no  sign  of 
impatience  at  the  trouble  I  was  only  too  conscious  of 
having  caused  him.  I  therefore  informed  the  hospitable 
Padre,  that  only  for  one  night  could  I  suffer  myself  to 
be  enticed  from  my  camp. 

I  selected  a  house  near  the  western  outskirts  of  the 
town,  where  there  is  a  large  open  square  through 
which  the  road  from  Unyanyembe  enters.  Had  I  been 
at  Bagamoyo  a  month,  I  could  not  have  bettered  my 
location.  My  tents  were  pitched  fronting  the  tembe 
(house)  I  had  chosen,  enclosing  a  small  square,  where 
business  could  be  transacted,  bales  looked  over,  examined, 
and  marked,  free  from  the  intrusion  of  curious  sight- 
seers. After  driving  the  twenty-seven  animals  of  the 
Expedition  into  the  enclosure  in  the  rear  of  the  house, 
storing  the  bales  of  goods,  and  placing  a  cordon  of 
soldiers  round,  I  proceeded  to  the  Jesuit  Mission,  to  a 
late  dinner,  being  tired  and  ravenous,  leaving  the 
newly-formed  camp  in  charge  of  the  white  men  and 
Capt.  Bombay. 

The  Mission  is  distant  from  the  town  a  good  half  mile, 
to  the  north  of  it ;  it  is  quite  a  village  of  itself,  num- 
bering some  fifteen  or  sixteen  houses.  There  are  some 
ten  padres  engaged  in  the  establishment,  and  as  many 
sisters,  and  all  find  plenty  of  occupation  in  educing 
from  native  crania  the  fire  of  intelligence.  Truth  com- 
pels me  to  state  that  they  are  very  successful,  having 
over  two  hundred  pupils,  boys  and  girls,  in  the  Mission, 


(4 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and,  from  the  oldest  to  the  youngest,  they  show  the 
impress  of  the  useful  education  they  have  received. 

The  dinner  furnished  to  the  padres  and  their  guest 
consisted  of  as  many  plats  as  a  first-class  hotel  in  Paris 
usually  supplies,  and  cooked  with  nearly  as  much  skill, 
though  the  surroundings  were  by  no  means  equal.  I 
feel  assured  also  that  the  padres,  besides  being  tasteful 
in  their  potages  and  entrees,  do  not  stultify  their  ideas 
for  lack  of  that  element  which  Horace,  Hafiz,  and 
Byron  have  praised  so  much.  The  champagne — think  of 
champagne  Cliquot  in  East  Africa  ! — Lafitte,  La  Rose, 
Burgundy,  and  Bordeaux  were  of  first-rate  quality, 
and  the  meek  and  lowly  eyes  of  the  fathers  ay  ere  not 
a  little  brightened  under  the  vinous  influence.  Ah  ! 
those  fathers  understand  life,  and  appreciate  its  dura- 
tion. Their  festive  board  drives  the  Mukunguru 
(African  jungle  fever)  from  their  doors,  while  it  soothes 
the  gloom  and  isolation  which  strike  one  with  awe, 
as  one  emerges  from  the  lighted  room  and  plunges 
into  the  depths  of  the  darkness  of  an  African  night, 
enlivened  only  by  the  wearying  monotone  of  the  frogs 
and  crickets,  and  the  distant  ululation  of  the  hyaena. 
It  requires  somewhat  above  human  effort,  unaided  by 
the  ruby  liquid  that  cheers,  to  be  always  suave  and 
polite  amid  the  dismalities  of  native  life  in  Africa. 

After  the  evening  meal,  which  replenished  my  failing 
strength,  and  for  which  I  felt  the  intensest  gratitude, 
the  most  advanced  of  the  pupils  came  forward,  to  the 
number  of  twenty,  with  brass  instruments,  thus  forming 
a  full  band  of  music.  It  rather  astonished  me  to  hear 
the  sounds  issue  forth  in  such  harmony  from  such 
woolly-headed  youngsters  ;  to  hear  well-known  French 
music  at  this  isolated  port,  to  hear  negro  boys,  that  a 
few  months  ago  knew  nothing  beyond  the  traditions 


Fed.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO. 


of  their  ignorant  mothei  s,  stand  forth  and  chant  Parisian 
songs  about  French  valor  and  glory,  with  all  the  sang- 
froid of  gamins  from  the  purlieus  of  Saint- Antoine. 

I  had  a  most  refreshing  night's  rest,  and  at  dawn  I 
sought  out  my  camp,  with  a  will  to  enjoy  the  new 
life  now  commencing.  On  counting  the  animals,  two 
donkeys  were  missing ;  and  on  taking  notes  of  my 
African  moneys,  one  coil  of  No.  6  wire  was  not  to 
be  found.  Everybody  had  evidently  fallen  on  the 
ground  to  sleep,  oblivious  of  the  fact  that  on  the  Mrima 
there  are  many  dishonest  prowlers  at  night.  Soldiers 
were  despatched  to  search  through  the  town  and 
neighbourhood,  and  Jemadar  Esau,  he  of  the  trailing 
turban,  the  filthy  face  and  neck,  was  apprised  of  our  loss, 
and  stimulated  to  discover  the  animals  by  the  promise  of 
a  reward.  Before  night  one  of  the  missing  donkeys  was 
found  outside  the  town  nibbling  at  manioc-leaves,  but 
the  other  animal  and  the  coil  of  wire  were  never  found. 

Among  my  visitors  this  first  day  at  Bagamoyo  was 
Ali  bin  Salim,  a  brother  of  the  famous  Sayd  bin  Salim, 
formerly  Has  Kafilah  to  Burton  and  Speke,  and  subse- 
quently to  Speke  and  Grant.  His  salaams  were  very  pro- 
fuse, and  moreover,  his  brother  was  to  be  my  agent  in 
Unyamwezi,  so  that  I  did  not  hesitate  to  accept  his  offer 
of  assistance.  But,  alas,  for  my  white  face  and  too 
trustful  nature !  This  Ali  bin  Salim  turned  out  to  be  a 
snake  in  the  grass,  a  very  sore  thorn  in  my  side.  T 
was  invited  to  his  comfortable  house  to  partake  of  coffee. 
I  went  there  :  the  coffee  was  good  though  sugarless,  his 
promises  were  many,  but  they  proved  valueless.  Said 
he  to  me,  "  I  am  your  friend  ;  I  wish  to  serve  you ; 
what  can  I  do  for  you  ?" — Replied  I,  "  I  am  obliged 
to  you,  I  need  a  good  friend  who,  knowing  the  language 
and  customs  of  the  Wanyamwezi,  can  procure  me  the 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


pagazis  I  need  and  send  me  off  quickly.  Your  brother 
is  acquainted  with  the  Wasungu  (white  men),  and  knows 
that  what  they  promise  they  make  good.  Get  me  a  hun- 
dred and  forty  pagazis  and  I  will  pay  you  your  price." 
With  unctuous  courtesy,  the  reptile  I  was  now  warmly 
nourishing,  said,  "  I  do  not  want  anything  from  you,  my 
friend,  for  such  a  slight  service,  rest  content  and  quiet ; 
you  shall  not  stop  here  fifteen  days.  To-morrow  morn- 
ing I  will  come  and  overhaul  your  bales  to  see  what  is 
needed."  I  bade  him  good  morning,  elated  with  the  happy 
thought  that  I  was  soon  to  tread  the  Unyanyembe  road. 

The  reader  must  be  made  acquainted  with  two  good 
and  sufficient  reasons  why  I  was  to  devote  all  my 
energy  to  lead  the  Expedition  as  quickly  as  possible 
from  Bagamoyo.  First,  I  wished  to  reach  Ujiji  be- 
fore the  news  reached  Livingstone  that  I  was  in 
search  of  him,  for  my  impression  of  him  was  that 
he  was  a  man  who  would  try  to  put  as  much  dis- 
tance as  possible  between  us,  rather  than  make  an 
effort  to  shorten  it,  and  I  should  have  my  long  journey 
for  nothing.  Second,  the  Masika,  or  rainy  season, 
would  soon  be  on  me,  which,  if  it  caught  me  at  Baga- 
moyo, would  prevent  my  departure  until  it  was  over, 
which  meant  a  delay  of  forty  days,  and  exaggerated  as 
the  rains  were  by  all  men  with  whom  I  came  in  contact, 
it  rained  every  day  for  forty  days  without  intermission. 
This  I  knew  was  a  thing  to  dread;  for  I  had  my 
memory  stored  with  all  kinds  of  rainy  unpleasantnesses. 
For  instance,  there  was  the  rain  of  Virginia  and  its 
concomitant  horrors — wetness,  mildew,  agues,  rheuma- 
tics, and  such  like ;  then  there  were  the  English  rains, 
a  miserable  drizzle  causing  the  blue  devils ;  then  the 
rainy  season  of  Abyssinia  with  the  flood-gates  of  the 
firmament  opened,  and  an  universal  down-pour  of  rain, 


Feb.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO. 


47 


enough  to  submerge  half  a  continent  in  a  few  hours ; 
lastly,  there  was  the  pelting  monsoon  of  India,  a  steady 
shut-in-house  kind  of  rain.  To  which  of  these  rains 
should  I  compare  this  dreadful  Masika  of  East  Africa  ? 
Did  not  Burton  write  much  about  black  mud  in 
Dzaramo?  Well,  a  country  whose  surface  soil  is 
called  black  mud  in  fine  weather,  what  can  it  be  called 
when  forty  days'  rain  beat  on  it,  and  feet  of  pagazis  and 
donkeys  make  paste  of  it  ?  These  were  natural  reflec- 
tions, induced  by  the  circumstances  of  the  hour,  and  I 
found  myself  much  exercised  in  mind  in  consequence. 

Ali  bin  Salim,  true  to  his  promise,  visited  my  camp 
on  the  morrow,  with  a  very  important  air,  and  after 
looking  at  the  pile  of  cloth  bales,  informed  me  that  I 
must  have  them  covered  with  mat-bags  (makandas). 
He  said  he  would  send  a  man  to  have  them  measured, 
but  he  enjoined  me  not  to  make  any  bargain  for  the 
bags,  as  he  would  make  it  all  right. 

While  awaiting  with  commendable  patience  the  140 
pagazis  promised  by  Ali  bin  Salim  we  were  all  employed 
upon  everything  that  thought  could  suggest  needful  for 
crossing  the  sickly  maritime  region,  so  that  we  might 
make  the  transit  before  the  terrible  fever  could  unnerve 
us,  and  make  us  joyless.  A  short  experience  at  Baga- 
moyo  showed  us  what  we  lacked,  what  was  superfluous, 
and  what  was  necessary.  We  were  visited  one  night 
by  a  squall,  accompanied  by  furious  rain.  I  had  $1,500 
worth  of  pagazi  cloth  in  my  tent.  In  the  morning  I 
looked,  and  lo  !  the  drilling  had  let  in  rain  like  a  sieve, 
and  every  yard  of  cloth  was  wet.  It  occupied  two 
days  afterwards  to  dry  the  cloths,  and  fold  them  again. 
The  drill-tent  was  condemned,  and  a  No.  5  hemp-canvas 
tent  at  once  prepared.  After  which  I  felt  convinced 
that  my  cloth  bales,  and  one  year's  ammunition,  were 


4* 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


safe,  and  that  I  could  defy  the  Masika.  In  the  hurry  oi 
departure  from  Zanzibar,  and  in  my  ignorance  of  how 
bales  should  be  made,  I  had  submitted  to  the  better  judg- 
ment and  ripe  experience  of  one  Jetta,  a  commission 
merchant,  to  prepare  my  bales  for  carriage.  Jetta  did 
not  weigh  the  bales  as  he  made  them  up,  but  piled  the 
Merikani,  Kaniki,  Barsati,  Jamdani,  Joho,  Ismahili,  in 
alternate  layers,  and  roped  the  same  into  bales.  One  or 
two  pagazis  came  to  my  camp  and  began  to  chaffer  ;  they 
wished  to  see  the  bales  first,  before  they  would  make  a 
final  bargain.  They  tried  to  raise  them  up — ugh ! 
ugh  !  it  was  of  no  use,  and  withdrew.  A  fine  Salter's 
spring  balance  was  hung  up,  and  a  bale  suspended  to 
the  hook ;  the  finger  indicated  1 05  lbs.  or  3  frasilah, 
which  was  just  35  lbs.  or  one  frasilah  overweight. 
Upon  putting  all  the  bales  to  this  test,  I  perceived  that 
Jetta's  guess-work,  with  all  his  experience,  had  caused 
considerable  trouble  to  me.  The  soldiers  were  set  to 
work  to  reopen  and  repack,  which  latter  task  is  per- 
formed in  the  following  manner : — We  cut  a  doti,  or 
four  yards  of  Merikani,  ordinarily  sold  at  Zanzibar  for 
$2*75  the  piece  of  thirty  yards,  and  spread  it  out. 
We  take  a  piece  or  bolt  of  good  Merikani,  and  instead 
of  the  double  fold  given  k  by  the  Nashua  and  Salem 
mills,  we  fold  it  into  three  parts,  by  which  the  folds  have 
a  breadth  of  a  foot ;  this  piece  forms  the  first  layer,  and 
will  weigh  nine  pounds  ;  the  second  layer  consists  of  six 
pieces  of  Kaniki,  a  blue  stuff  similar  to  the  blue  blouse 
stuff  of  France,  and  the  blue  jeans  of  America,  though 
much  lighter  ;  the  third  layer  is  formed  of  the  second 
piece  of  Merikani,  the  fourth  of  six  more  pieces  of 
Kaniki,  the  fifth  of  Merikani,  the  sixth  of  Kaniki  as 
before,  and  the  seventh  and  last  of  Merikani.  We 
have    thus    four   pieces    of  Merikani,  which  weigh 


Feb.  1871.]  LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO.  49 


36  lbs.,  and  18  pieces  of  Kaniki  weighing  also  36  lbs., 
making  a  total  of  72  lbs.,  or  a  little  more  than  two 
frasilahs;  the  cloth  is  then  folded  singly  over  these 
layers,  each  corner  tied  to  another.  A  bundle  of  coir- 
rope  is  then  brought,  and  two  men,  provided  with  a 
wooden  mallet  for  beating  and  pressing  the  bale, 
proceed  to  tie  it  up  with  as  much  nicety  as  sailors 
serve  down  rigging. 

When  complete  a  bale  is  a  solid  mass  three  feet  and  a 
half  long,  a  foot  deep,  and  a  foot  wide.  Of  these  bales 
I  had  to  convey  eighty-two  to  Unyanyembe,  forty  of 
which  consisted  solely  of  the  Merikani  and  Kaniki.  The 
other  forty-two  contained  the  Merikani  and  colored 
cloths,  which  latter  were  to  serve  as  honga  or  tribute 
cloths,  and  to  engage  another  set  of  pagazis  from  Un- 
yanyembe to  Ujiji,  and  from  Ujiji  to  the  regions  beyond. 

The  fifteenth  day  asked  of  me  by  Ali  bin  Salim  for 
the  procuring  of  the  pagazis  passed  by,  and  there  was 
not  the  ghost  of  a  pagazi  in  my  camp.  I  sent  Mabruki 
the  Bull-headed — one  of  Burton's  men — to  Ali  bin 
Salim,  to  convey  my  salaams  and  express  a  hope  that 
he  had  kept  his  word.  In  half  an  hour's  time  Mabruki 
returned  with  the  reply  of  the  Arab,  that  in  a  few  days 
he  would  be  able  to  collect  them  ail ;  but,  added 
Mabruki,  slyly,  "  Bana,  I  don't  believe  him.  He  said 
aloud  to  himself,  in  my  hearing,  4  Why  should  I  get  the 
Musungu  pagazis  ?  Syed  Burghash  did  not  send  a  letter 
to  me,  but  to  the  Jemadar.  Why  should  I  trouble  myself 
about  him  ?  Let  Syed  Burghash  write  me  a  letter  to  that 
purpose,  and  I  will  procure  them  within  two  days.' " 

To  my  mind  this  was  a  time  for  action  :  Ali  bin 
Salim  should  see  that  it  was  ill  trifling  with  a  white 
man  in  earnest  to  start.  I  rode  down  to  his  house  to 
ask  him  what  he  meant. 


50 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


His  reply  was,  Mabruki  had  told  a  lie  as  black  as  his 
face.  He  had  never  said  anything  approaching  to  such 
a  thing.  He  was  willing  to  become  my  slave — to  be- 
come a  pagazi  himself.  But  here  I  stopped  the  voluble 
Ali,  and  informed  him  that  I  could  not  think  of  em- 
ploying him  in  the  capacity  of  a  pagazi,  neither  could 
I  find  it  in  my  heart  to  trouble  Syed  Burghash  to  write 
a  direct  letter  to  him,  or  to  require  of  a  man  who  had 
deceived  me  once,  as  Ali  bin  Salim  had,  any  service  of 
any  nature  whatsoever.  It  would  be  better,  therefore, 
if  Ali  bin  Salim  would  stay  away  from  my  camp,  and 
not  enter  it  either  in  person  or  by  proxy. 

I  had  lost  fifteen  days,  for  Jemadar  Sadur,  at  Kaole, 
had  never  stirred  from  his  fortified  house  in  that  village 
in  my  service,  save  to  pay  a  visit,  after  the  receipt  of 
the  Sultan's  letter.  Naranji,  custom-house  agent  at 
Kaole,  solely  under  the  thumb  of  the  great  Ludha 
Damji,  had  not  responded  to  Ludha's  worded  request 
that  he  would  procure  pagazis,  except  with  winks, 
nods,  and  promises,  and  it  is  but  just  stated  how  I 
fared  at  the  hands  of  Ali  bin  Salim.  In  this  extremity 
I  remembered  the  promise  made  to  me  by  the  great 
merchant  of  Zanzibar — Tarya  Topan — a  Mohammedan 
Hindi — that  he  would  furnish  me  with  a  letter  to  a 
young  man  named  Soor  Hadji  Palloo,  who  was  said  to 
be  the  best  man  in  Bagamoyo  to  procure  a  supply  of 
pagazis. 

I  despatched  Selim,  my  Arab  interpreter,  by  a  dhow 
to  Zanzibar,  with  a  very  earnest  request  to  Capt.  Webb 
that  he  would  procure  from  Tarya  Topan  the  intro- 
ductory letter  so  long  delayed.  It  was  the  last  card 
in  my  hand. 

On  the  third  day  the  boy  Selim  returned,  bringing 
with  him  not  only  the  letter  to  Soor  Hadji  Palloo,  but 


Feb.  1871.]  LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO.  51 

an  abundance  of  good  things  from  the  ever-hospitable 
house  of  Mr.  Webb.  In  a  very  short  time  after  the 
receipt  of  his  letter,  the  eminent  young  man  Soor  Hadji 
Palloo  came  to  visit  me,  and  informed  me  he  had  been 
requested  by  Tarya  Topan  to  hire  for  me  one  hundred 
and  forty  pagazis  to  Unyanyembe  in  the  shortest  time 
possible.  This  he  said  would  be  very  expensive,  for 
there  were  scores  of  Arabs  and  Wasawahili  merchants 
on  the  look-out  for  every  caravan  that  came  in  from 
the  interior,  and  they  paid  20  doti,  or  80  yards  of 
cloth,  to  each  pagazi.  Not  willing  or  able  to  pay  more, 
many  of  these  merchants  had  been  waiting  as  long  as 
six  months  before  they  could  get  their  quota.  "  If  you," 
continued  he,  "  desire  to  depart  quickly,  you  must  pay 
from  25  to  40  doti,  and  I  can  send  you  off  before  one 
month  is  ended."  In  reply,  I  said,  "  Here  are  my  cloths 
for  pagazis  to  the  amount  of  §1,750,  or  3,500  doti,  suffi- 
cient to  give  one  hundred  and  forty  men  25  doti  each. 
The  most  I  am  willing  to  pay  is  25  doti :  send  one 
hundred  and  forty  pagazis  to  Unyanyembe  with  my 
cloth  and  wire,  and  I  will  make  your  heart  glad  with 
the  richest  present  you  have  ever  received."  With  a 
refreshing  naivete,  the  u  young  man  "  said  he  did  not 
want  any  present,  he  would  get  me  my  quota  of 
pagazis,  and  then  I  could  tell  the  "  Wasungu "  what 
a  good  u  young  man  "  he  was,  and  consequently  the 
benefit  he  would  receive,  would  be  an  increase  of  busi- 
ness. He  closed  his  reply  with  the  astounding  remark 
that  he  had  ten  pagazis  at  his  house  already,  and  if 
I  would  be  good  enough  to  have  four  bales  of  cloth, 
two  bags  of  beads,  and  twenty  coils  of  wire  carried  to 
his  house,  the  pagazis  could  leave  Bagamoyo  the  next 
day,  under  charge  of  three  soldiers.  "  For,"  he  re- 
marked, "  it  is  much  better  and  cheaper  to  send  many 

e  2 


52 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


small  caravans  than  one  large  one.  Large  caravans 
invite  attack,  or  are  delayed  by  avaricious  chiefs  upon 
the  most  trivial  pretexts,  while  small  ones  pass  by  with- 
out notice.,, 

The  bales  and  beads  were  duly  carried  to  Soor 
Hadji  Palloo's  house,  and  the  day  passed  with  me 
in  mentally  congratulating  myself  upon  my  good  for- 
tune, in  complimenting  the  young  Hindi's  talents  for 
business,  the  greatness  and  influence  of  Tarya  To  pan, 
and  the  goodness  of  Mr.  Webb  in  thus  hastening  my 
departure  from  Bagamoyo.  I  mentally  vowed  a  hand- 
some present,  and  a  great  puff  in  my  book,  to  Soor 
Hadji  Palloo,  and  it  was  with  a  glad  heart  I  prepared 
these  soldiers  for  their  march  to  Unyanyembe. 

The  task  of  preparing  the  first  caravan  for  the 
Unyanyembe  road  informed  me  upon  several  things 
that  have  escaped  the  notice  of  my  predecessors  in 
East  Africa,  a  timely  knowledge  of  which  would  have 
been  of  infinite  service  to  me  at  Zanzibar,  in  the  purchase 
and  selection  of  sufficient  and  proper  cloth.  I  append 
here,  as  an  example,  the  bill  of  costs  for  the  sending  of 
a  caravan  of  ten  pagazis,  and  three  soldiers  as  guards, 
to  Unyanyembe. 

Cost  of  Carriage. 
To  10  pagazis'  hire,  at  25  doti,  each  doti  of  cloth 


being  50c  g 125 -00 

Matama  grain  for  4  days'  food   1*00 

For  Food  on  the  Road. 

Merikani,  25  doti   12-50 

Kaniki,  20  doti  25cta  each   5  •  00 

Taujiri,  2  doti  50cts  each    1  •  00 

Sami-Sami,  9  lbs   3  •  05 

Bubu,  3  lbs   -33 

Merikani,  7  lbs   1'05 


gU8'98 


Feb.  1871.]  LIFE  AT  BAGAMOIO.  58 

Food  for  Three  Soldiere 

3  lbs.  Bubu  beads   g  '33 

3  lbs.  Merikani   *45 

3  lbs.  Sami-Sami   l'Olf 

Merikani  cloths,  7£  doti   3*75 

Barsati,  2  doti   1*00 

Kaniki,  2  doti   '50 

Wages  for  3  months,  at  g  9  per  month  .     .     .     .  27  •  00 


To  money  to  pay  for  ferry-boat  crossing  the  Kingani     2  •  00 

g 36  04$ 

jg  US  -93 
36-04J 

#184-97f 

Value  of  Goods  carried  by  a  portion  of  the  First  Caravan, 


3  bales  of  cloth  containing — 

90  doti  of  Kaniki,  at  25c   g  22  •  50 

112^  doti  of  Merikani,  at  50c   56-25 

3  loads  of  wire,  or  4  frasilahs   36 -87^ 

1  bag  of  Sungomazzi,  or  1000    14-00 

1  bag  of  Sami-Sami  beads,  or  2  frasilahs    .     .     .  26'0O 


g  155 -62* 

Thus  the  cost  of  carriage  was  a  little  over  $29  in 
excess  of  the  value  of  the  goods  carried. 

Supposing  I  despatched  one  hundred  pagazis,  the  cost 
of  carriage  for  ten  times  the  quantity  of  goods  con- 
veyed as  estimated  above  would  amount  to  $1849*76f, 
while  the  cost  of  the  goods  themselves  would  reach  the 
sum  of  $1556-25,  and  together  would  make  $3406'01f. 

And  while  I  am  about  this  system  of  transporta- 
tion, being  a  methodical  man,  I  might  as  well  annex 
the  bill  of  costs  of  a  portion  of  the  third  caravan,  led 
by  my  white  man  Farquhar,  which  consisted  of  ten 
donkeys,  three  soldiers,  one  white  man,  and  one  cook, 


Total  cost  of  pagazis 
„  soldiers 


54 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


so  that  the  reader  may  compare  the  expenses,  for  he 
must  remember  I  include  everything  in  the  bill. 

Cost  of  Carriage. 


To  9  donkeys  bearing  goods,  at  g  18     .     .     .     g  162*00 

To  1  donkey  for  white  man   18*00 

To  10  saddles   17*60 

1  saddle,  thus : 

Canvas  33J 

Twine   5 

Cotton  25 

Iron  rings  10 

American  drill  15 

Cotton  band  12£ 

Rope  20 

  1*21 

3  months'  wages  to  cook  at  g  9   27  *  00 

3  „  white  man  at  g  25   .     .     .  .75-00 

1  tent   8*00 

Sugar,  4  lbs   25 

Tea   4*00 

Medicine   3-00 

Rice   1-00 

To  3  soldiers'  wages  at  g  9  each   27-00 

Ferry  money   2*00 

Matama  grain,  16  measures   1*00 

To  food  on  the  road  for  donkeys,  16  doti  Merikani.  8*00 

To  food  for  5  men,  25  doti   12-50 

15  lbs.  of  beads   3  ■  00 


g 363 *83 

Value  of  Goods  conveyed. 

To  18  bales  of  cloth  containing — 

540  doti  Kaniki  at  25c  g  135  •  00 

675  doti  Merikani  at  50c   337*50 


The  cost  of  carriage  in  this  case  is  much  less,  and 
what  is  in  favor  of  the  donkey  as  a  beast  of  burden,  is, 
that  it  carries  much  more  than  two  pagazis  will,  upon 
occasion.     Two  pagazis  with  all  the  necessaries  cost 


Feb.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAQAMOYO. 


5c 


about  $37*01,  one  donkey  costs  upon  the  same  terms 
say  about  $36*40.  These  are  only  according  to  the 
sums  above  quoted.  But  Farquhar  could  have  led  into 
Unyanyembe,  twenty  donkeys  as  easily  as  ten  ;  the  cost 
of  carriage  would  then  be  greatly  in  favor  of  the  donkeys. 
If  we  take  into  consideration  that  Burton's  thirtv-three 
donkeys  all  died  before  they  reached  Unyanyembe,  we 
must  also  remember  that  he  states  that  all  his  pagazis 
deserted  or  tried  to  desert  on  the  march.  But  we  shall 
be  better  able  to  judge  of  the  relative  value  of  donkeys 
and  pagazis  after  I  have  arrived  at  Unyanyembe ;  until 
then  we  will  leave  the  question  open. 

The  setting-out  of  the  first  caravan  enlightened  me 
also  upon  the  subject  of  honga,  or  tribute.  Tribute 
had  to  be  packed  by  itself,  all  of  choice  cloth ;  for  the 
chiefs,  besides  being  avaricious,  are  also  very  fastidious. 
They  will  not  accept  the  flimsy  colored  cloth  of  the 
pagazi,  but  a  royal  and  exceedingly  high-priced  dab- 
wani,  IsmahiH,  Rehani,  or  a  Sohari,  or  dotis  of  crimson 
broad  cloth.  The  tribute  for  the  first  caravan  cost  $25. 
Having  more  than  one  hundred  and  forty  pagazis  to 
despatch,  this  tribute  money  would  amount  finally  to 
$330  in  gold,  with  a  premium  of  25c.  on  each  dollar. 
Ponder  on  this,  0  traveller !  I  lay  bare  these  facts  for 
your  special  instruction. 

But  before  my  first  caravan  was  destined  to  part 
company  with  me,  Soor  Hadji  Palloo — worthy  young 
man  — and  1,  were  to  come  to  a  definite  understanding 
about  money  matters.  The  morning  appointed  for  de- 
parture Soor  Hadji  Palloo  came  to  my  hut  and  pre- 
sented his  bill,  with  all  the  gravity  of  innocence,  for 
supplying  the  pagazis  with  twenty-five  cloti  each  as 
their  hire  to  Unyanyembe,  begging  immediate  payment 
in  money.    Words  fail  to  express  the  astonishment  I 


56 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


naturally  felt,  that  this  sharp-looking  young  man  should 
so  soon  have  forgotten  the  verbal  contract  entered  into 
between  him  and  myself  the  morning  previous,  which 
was  to  the  effect  that  out  of  the  three  thousand  doti 
stored  in  my  tent,  and  bought  expressly  for  pagazi 
hire,  each  and  every  man  hired  for  me  as  carriers  from 
Bagamoyo  to  Unyanyembe,  should  be  paid  out  of  the 
store  there  in  my  tent.  When  I  asked  if  he  remem- 
bered the  contract,  he  replied  in  the  affirmative  :  his 
reasons  for  breaking  it  so  soon  were,  that  he  wished  to 
sell  his  cloths,  not  mine,  and  for  his  cloths  he  should 
want  money,  not  an  exchange.  But  I  gave  him  to 
comprehend  that  as  he  was  procuring  pagazis  for  me, 
he  was  to  pay  my  pagazis  with  my  cloths ;  that  all  the 
money  I  expected  to  pay  him,  should  be  just  such  a  sum 
as  I  thought  adequate  for  his  trouble  as  my  agent,  and 
that  only  on  those  terms  should  he  act  for  me  in  this  or 
any  other  matter,  and  that  the  "  Musungu "  was  not 
accustomed  to  eat  his  words. 

The  preceding  paragraph  embodies  many  more  words 
than  are  contained  in  it.  It  embodies  a  dialogue  of  an 
hour,  an  angry  altercation  of  half-an-hour's  duration,  a 
vow  taken  on  the  part  of  Soor  Hadji  Palloo,  that  if  I 
did  not  take  his  cloths  he  should  not  touch  my  busi- 
ness., many  tears,  entreaties,  woeful  penitence,  and 
much  else,  all  of  which  were  responded  to  with,  "  Do  as 
I  want  you  to  do,  or  do  nothing."  Finally  came  relief, 
and  a  happy  ending.  Soor  Hadji  Palloo  went  away 
with  a  bright  face,  taking  with  him  the  three  soldiers* 
posho  (food),  and  honga  (tribute)  for  the  caravan. 
Well  for  me  that  it  ended  so,  and  that  subsequent 
quarrels  of  a  similar  nature  terminated  so  peaceably, 
otherwise  I  doubt  whether  my  departure  from  Bagamoyo 
would  have  happened  so  early  as  it  did.    While  I  am 


Feb.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO. 


57 


on  this  tlierae,  and  as  it  really  engrossed  every  moment 
of  my  time  at  Bagamoyo,  I  may  as  well  be  more  ex- 
plicit regarding  Soor  Hadji  Palloo  and  his  connection 
with  my  business. 

Soor  Hadji  Palloo  was  a  smart  young  man  of 
business,  energetic,  quick  at  mental  calculation,  and 
seemed  to  be  born  for  a  successful  salesman.  His  eyes 
were  never  idle,  they  wandered  over  every  part  of  my 
person,  over  the  tent,  the  bed,  the  guns,  the  clothes, 
and  having  swung  clear  round,  began  the  silent  circle 
over  again.  His  fingers  were  never  at  rest,  they  had  a 
fidgety,  nervous  action  at  their  tips,  constantly  in  the 
act  of  feeling  something  ;  while  in  the  act  of  talking  to 
me,  he  wrould  lean  over  and  feel  the  texture  of  the 
cloth  of  my  trousers,  my  coat,  or  my  shoes  or  socks ; 
then  he  would  feel  his  own  light  jamdani  shirt  or  dab- 
wain  loin-cloth,  until  his  eyes  casually  resting  upon  a 
novelty,  his  body  would  lean  forward,  and  his  arm  was 
stretched  oat  with  the  willing  fingers.  His  jaws  also 
were  in  perpetual  motion,  caused  by  vile  habits  he  had 
acquired  of  chewing  betel-nut  and  lime,  and  sometimes 
tobacco  and  lime.  They  gave  out  a  sound  similar  to  that 
of  a  young  shoat,  in  the  act  of  sucking.  He  was  a 
pious  Mohammedan,  and  observed  the  external  cour- 
tesies and  ceremonies  of  the  true  believers.  He  would 
affably  greet  me,  take  off  his  shoes,  enter  my  tent 
protesting  he  was  not  fit  to  sit  in  my  presence,  and 
after  being  seated,  would  begin  his  ever-crooked  errand. 
Of  honesty,  literal  and  practical  honesty,  this  youth 
knew  nothing ;  to  the  pure  truth  he  was  an  utter 
stranger ;  the  falsehoods  he  had  uttered  during  his 
short  life  seemed  already  to  have  quenched  the  bold 
gaze  of  innocence  from  his  eyes,  to  have  banished  the 
color  of  truthfulness  from  his  features,  to  have  trans- 


r>8 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


formed  him — yet  a  stripling  of  twenty — into  a  moat  ac- 
complished rascal,  and  consummate  expert  in  dishonesty. 

During  the  six  weeks  I  encamped  at  Bagamoyo, 
waiting  for  my  quota  of  men,  this  lad  of  twenty  gave 
me  as  much  trouble  as  all  the  scoundrelism  of  New 
York  gives  to  her  Chief  of  Police.  He  was  found  out 
half  a  dozen  times  a  day  in  dishonesty,  yet  was  in 
no  way  abashed  by  it.  He  would  send  in  his  account 
of  the  cloths  supplied  to  the  pagazis,  stating  them  to  be 
25  paid  to  each  ;  on  sending  a  man  to  inquire  I  would 
find  the  greatest  number  to  have  been  20,  and  the 
smallest  12.  Soor  Hadji  Palloo  described  the  cloths  to 
be  of  first-class  quality,  Ulyah  cloths,  worth  in  the 
market  four  times  more  than  the  ordinary  quality  given 
to  the  pagazis,  yet  a  personal  examination  would  prove 
them  to  be  the  flimsiest  goods  sold,  such  as  American 
sheeting  1\  feet  broad,  and  worth  $2*75  per  30  yards  a 
piece  at  Zanzibar,  or  the  most  inferior  Kaniki  which  is 
generally  sold  at  $9  per  score.  He  would  personally 
come  to  my  camp  and  demand  40  lbs.  of  Sami-Sami, 
Merikani,  and  Bubu  beads  for  posho,  or  caravan  rations  ; 
an  inspection  of  their  store  before  departure  from  their 
first  camp  from  Bagamoyo  would  show  a  deficiency 
ranging  from  5  to  30  lbs.  Moreover,  he  cheated  in 
cash-money,  such  as  demanding  $4  for  crossing  the 
Kingani  Ferry  for  every  ten  pagazis,  when  the  fare  was 
$2  for  the  same  number  ;  and  an  unconscionable  amount 
of  pice  (copper  coins  equal  in  value  to  f  of  a  cent)  was 
required  for  posho.  It  was  every  day  for  four  weeks 
that  this  system  of  roguery  was  carried  out.  Each  day 
conceived  a  dozen  new  schemes  ;  every  instant  of  his 
time  he  seemed  to  be  devising  how  to  plunder,  until  I 
was  fairly  at  my  wits'  end  how  to  thwart  him.  Ex- 
posure before  a  crowd  of  his  fellows  brought  no  blush  of 


Feb.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO. 


shame  to  his  sallow  cheeks ;  he  would  listen  with  a 
mere  shrug  of  the  shoulders  and  that  was  all,  which  I 
might  interpret  any  way  it  pleased  me.  A  threat  to 
reduce  his  present  had  no  effect ;  a  bird  in  the  hand  was 
certainly  worth  two  in  the  bush  for  him,  so  ten  dollars' 
worth  of  goods  stolen  and  in  his  actual  possession  was 
of  more  intrinsic  value,  than  the  promise  of  $20  in  a  few 
days,  though  it  was  that  of  a  Musungu's. 

Eeaders  will  of  course  ask  themselves  why  I  did  not, 
after  the  first  discovery  of  these  shameless  proceedings, 
close  my  business  with  him,  to  which  I  make  reply,  that 
I  could  not  do  without  him  unless  his  equal  were  forth- 
coming, that  I  never  felt  so  thoroughly  dependent  on 
any  one  man  as  I  did  upon  him ;  without  his  or  his 
duplicate's  aid,  I  must  have  stayed  at  Bagamoyo  at  least 
six  months,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the  Expedition 
would  have  become  valueless,  the  rumour  of  it  having 
been  blown  abroad  to  the  four  winds.  It  was  imme- 
diate departure  that  was  essential  to  my  success — depar- 
ture from  Bagamoyo — after  which  it  might  be  possible 
for  me  to  control  my  own  future  in  a  great  measure. 

These  troubles  were  the  greatest  that  I  could  at  this 
time  imagine.  I  have  already  stated  that  I  had  $1,750 
worth  of  pagazis'  clothes,  or  3,500  doti,  stored  in  my 
tent,  and  above  what  my  bales  contained.  Calculating 
one  hundred  and  forty  pagazis  at  25  doti  each,  I  sup- 
posed I  had  enough,  yet,  though  I  had  been  trying  to 
teach  the  young  Hindi  that  the  Musungu  was  n©t  a 
fool,  nor  blind  to  his  pilfering  tricks,  though  the  3,500 
doti  were  all  spent ;  though  I  had  only  obtained  one 
hundred  and  thirty  pagazis  at  25  doti  each,  which  in 
the  aggregate  amounted  to  3,200  doti :  Soor  Hadji 
Palloo's  bill  was  $1,400  cash  extra.  His  plea  was  that 
he  had  furnished  Ulyah  clothes  for  Muhongo  240  doti, 


60 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


equal  in  value  to  060  of  my  doti,  that  the  money  was 
spent  in  ferry  pice,  in  presents  to  chiefs  of  caravans  of 
tents,  guns,  red  broad  cloth,  in  presents  to  people  on 
the  Mrima  (coast)  to  induce  them  to  hunt  up  pagazis. 
Upon  this  exhibition  of  most  ruthless  cheating  I  waxed 
indignant,  and  declared  to  him  that  if  he  did  not 
run  over  his  bill  and  correct  it,  he  should  go  without 
a  pice. 

But  before  the  bill  could  be  put  into  proper  shape, 
my  words,  threats,  and  promises  falling  heedlessly  on  a 
stony  brain,  a  man,  Kanjee  by  name,  from  the  store  of 
Tarya  Topan,  of  Zanzibar,  had  to  come  over,  when  the 
bill  was  finally  reduced  to  $738.  Without  any  dis- 
respect to  Tarya  Topan,  I  am  unable  to  decide  which  is 
the  most  accomplished  rascal,  Kanjee,  or  young  Soor 
Hadji  Palloo  ;  in  the  words  of  a  white  man  who  knows 
them  both,  u  there  is  not  the  splitting  of  a  straw  be- 
tween them."  Kanjee  is  deep  and  sly,  Soor  Hadji 
Palloo  is  bold  and  incorrigible.  But  peace  be  to  them 
both,  may  their  shaven  beads  never  be  covered  with 
the  troublous  crown  I  wore  at  Bagamoyo  ! 

My  dear  friendly  reader,  do  not  think,  if  I  speak  out 
my  mind  in  this  or  in  any  other  chapter  upon  matters 
seemingly  trivial  and  unimportant,  that  seeming  such 
they  should  be  left  unmentioned.  Every  tittle  related 
is  a  fact,  and  to  know  facts  is  to  receive  knowledge. 
How  could  I  ever  recite  my  experience  to  you  if  I  did 
not  enter  upon  these  miserable  details,  which  sorely 
distract  the  stranger  upon  his  first  arrival  ?  Had  I 
been  a  Government  official,  I  had  but  wagged  my  finger 
and  my  quota  of  pagazis  had  been  furnished  me  within 
a  week,  but  as  an  individual  arriving  without  the 
graces  of  official  recognition,  armed  with  no  Govern- 
ment influence,  I  had  to  be  patient,  bide  my  time, 


Feb.  1871.1 


LIFE  AT  BAQAMOYO. 


61 


and  chew  the  cud  of  irritation  quietly,  but  the  bread  I 

ate  was  not  all  sour,  as  this  was. 

The  white  men,  Farquhar  and  Shaw,  were  kept 
steadily  at  work  upon  water-proof  tents  of  hemp  canvas, 
for  I  perceived,  by  the  premonitory  showers  of  rain  that 
marked  the  approach  of  the  Masika  that  an  ordinary 
tent  of  light  cloth  would  subject  myself  to  damp  and  my 
goods  to  mildew,  and  while  there  was  time  to  rectify 
all  errors  that  had  crept  into  my  plans  through  igno- 
rance or  overhaste,  I  thought  it  was  not  wise  to 
permit  things  to  rectify  themselves.  Now  that  I  have 
returned  uninjured  in  health,  though  I  have  suffered  the 
attacks  of  twenty-three  fevers  within  the  short  space  of 
thirteen  months,  I  must  confess  I  owe  my  life,  first,  to 
the  mercy  of  God  ;  secondly,  to  the  enthusiasm  for  my 
work,  which  animated  me  from  the  beginning  to  the 
end  ;  thirdly,  to  having  never  ruined  my  constitution  by 
indulgence  in  vice  and  intemperance ;  fourthly,  to  the 
energy  of  my  nature  ;  fifthly,  to  a  native  hopefulness 
which  never  died ;  and,  sixthly,  to  having  furnished 
myself  with  a  capacious  water  and  damp  proof  canvas 
house.  And  here,  if  my  experience  may  be  of  value, 
I  would  suggest  that  travellers,  instead  of  submitting 
their  better  judgment  to  the  caprices  of  a  tent-maker, 
who  will  endeavour  to  pass  off  a  handsomely  made 
fabric  of  his  own,  which  is  unsuited  to  all  climes,  to 
use  his  own  judgment,  and  get  the  best  and  strongest 
that  money  will  buy.  In  the  end  it  will  prove  the 
cheapest,  and  perhaps  be  the  means  of  saving  his  life. 

On  one  point  I  failed,  and  lest  new  and  young 
travellers  fall  into  the  same  error  which  marred  much 
of  my  enjoyment,  this  paragraph  is  written.  One 
must  be  extremely  careful  in  his  choice  of  weapons, 
whether  for  sport  or  defence.    A  traveller  should  have 


62 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


at  least  three  different  kinds  of  guns.  One  should  be 
a  fowling-piece,  the  second  should  be  a  double-barrelled 
rifle,  No.  10  or  12,  the  third  should  be  a  magazine- 
rifle,  for  defence.  For  the  fowling-piece  I  would 
suggest  No.  12  bore,  with  barrels  at  least  four  feet  in 
length.  For  the  rifle  for  larger  game,  I  would  point 
out,  with  due  deference  to  old  sportsmen,  of  course, 
that  the  best  guns  for  African  game  are  the  English 
Lancaster  and  O'Reilly  rifles ;  and  for  a  fighting 
weapon,  I  maintain  that  the  best  yet  invented  is  the 
American  Winchester  repeating  rifle,  or  the  "  sixteen- 
shooter "  as  it  is  called,  supplied  with  the  London 
Eley's  ammunition.  If  I  suggest  as  a  fighting  weapon 
the  American  Winchester,  I  do  not  mean  that  the 
traveller  need  take  it  for  the  purpose  of  offence,  but  as 
the  best  means  of  efficient  defence,  to  save  his  own  life 
against  African  banditti,  when  attacked,  a  thing  likely 
to  happen  any  time. 

I  met  a  young  man  soon  after  returning  from  the 
interior,  who  declared  his  conviction  that  the  "  Express  " 
rifle  was  the  most  perfect  weapon  ever  invented  to 
destroy  African  game.  Very  possibly  the  young  man 
may  be  right,  and  that  the  "  Express  rifle  "  is  all  he 
declares  it  to  be,  but  he  had  never  practised  with  it 
against  African  game,  and  as  I  had  never  tried  it,  I 
could  not  combat  his  assertion  :  but  I  could  relate  my 
experiences  with  weapons,  having  all  the  penetrating 
powers  of  the  "  Express,"  and  could  inform  him  that 
though  the  bullets  penetrated  through  the  animals,  they 
almost  always  failed  to  bring  down  the  game  at  the 
first  fire.  On  the  other  hand,  I  could  inform  him,  that 
during  the  time  I  travelled  with  Dr.  Livingstone  the 
Doctor  lent  me  his  heavy  "  O'Reilly  "  rifle  with  which 
I  seldom  failed  to  bring  an  animal  or  two  home  to  the 


Feb.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAGAMOYO. 


63 


camp,  and  that  I  found  the  Fraser  shell  answer  all 
purposes  for  which  it  was  intended.  The  feats  related 
by  Capt.  Speke  and  Sir  Samuel  Baker  are  no  longer 
matter  of  wonderment  to  the  young  sportsman,  when 
he  has  a  Lancaster  or  an  O'Reilly  in  his  hand, 
After  a  very  few  trials  he  can  imitate  them,  if  not  excel 
their  deeds,  provided  he  has  a  steady  hand.  And  il 
is  to  forward  this  end  that  this  paragraph  is  written. 
African  game  require  "  bone-crushers  ;"  for  any  ordinary 
carbine  possesses  sufficient  penetrative  qualities,  yet 
has  not  the  disabling  qualities  which  a  gun  must  pos- 
sess, to  be  useful  in  the  hands  of  an  African  explorer. 

I  had  not  been  long  at  Bagamoyo  before  I  went 
over  to  Mussoudi's  camp,  to  visit  the  "  Livingstone 
caravan "  which  the  British  Consul  had  despatched 
on  the  first  day  of  November,  1870,  to  the  relief  of 
Livingstone.  The  number  of  packages  was  thirty-five, 
which  required  as  many  men  to  convey  them  to  Un- 
yanyerribe.  The  men  chosen  to  escort  this  caravan 
were  composed  of  Jobannese  and  Wahiyow,  seven  in 
number.  Out  of  the  seven,  four  were  slaves.  They 
lived  in  clover  here — thoughtless  of  the  errand  they 
had  been  sent  upon,  and  careless  of  the  consequences. 
What  these  men  were  doing  at  Bagamoyo  all  this  time  I 
never  could  conceive,  except  indulging  their  own  vicious 
propensities.  It  would  be  nonsense  to  say  there  were 
no  pagazis ;  because  I  know  there  were  at  least  fifteen 
caravans  which  had  started  lor  the  interior  since  the 
Ramadan  (December  15th,  1870).  Yet  Livingstone's 
caravan  had  arrived  at  this  little  town  of  Bagamoyo 
November  2nd,  and  here  it  had  been  lying  until  the 
10th  February,  in  all,  100  days,  for  lack  of  the  limited 
number  of  thirty-five  pagazis,  a  number  that  might  be 
procured  within  two  days  through  consular  influence. 


54 


HO  TTr  /  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


If  the  British  Consul  puts  forward  a  plea  that  lie  was 
not  aware  that  his  supplies  to  Livingstone  were  still 
halted  at  Bagamoyo,  it  will  only  prove  to  me  that  he 
was  more  culpably  negligent  than  ever  of  his  duty  to  a 
British  subject  and  a  brother  official,  who  was  left 
completely  dependent  on  him  for  even  the  means  to 
live.  For  it  was  at  Zanzibar  on  the  first  evening  of 
my  arrival  that  I  was  first  informed  that  there  was  a 
caravan  at  Bagamoyo  about  to  start  for  the  interior 
with  supplies  for  Dr.  Livingstone ;  I  then  did  not 
know  whether  it  was  an  easy  or  a  difficult  thing  to 
despatch  a  caravan  into  the  interior.  My  surprise  may 
be  better  imagined  than  described,  when  I  discovered 
that  this  caravan,  requiring  only  thirty-five  men,  de- 
spatched by  the  British  Consul,  had  left  Zanzibar  on 
about  the  1st  or  2nd  of  November,  1870,  and  was  still 
encamped  at  Bagamoyo  on  the  10th  February,  1871,  a 
period  of  one  hundred  days  !  "  Why,"  I  asked  myself, 
"  if  a  small  body  of  thirty-five  men  cannot  be  collected 
within  one  hundred  days  by  a  British  Consul,  how  many 
days  must  elapse  before  a  mere  private  individual  like 
myself  can  collect  one  hundred  and  forty  men  ? " 

On  or  about  the  10th  of  February,  a  rumour  was 
spread  throughout  the  bazaars  at  Bagamoyo,  which 
reached  my  camp,  that  the  "Balyuz" — technically 
interpreted  "ambassador" — was  coming  to  visit  Baga- 
moyo, for  the  purpose  of  despatching  Livingstone's 
caravan.  That  same  evening  or  the  next  morning 
Livingstone's  caravan  in  a  fright  started  for  the  in- 
terior with  but  four  of  the  escort. 

Two  days  afterwards  H.M.S.  Columbine,  Capt. 
Tucker,  appeared  off  Bagamoyo,  with  Dr.  Kirk,  the 
acting  British  Consul  and  political  resident,  on  board. 
The  evening  of  the  Columbine's  arrival  off  our  African 


Ficb.  1871.] 


LIFE  AT  BAQAMOYO. 


H5 


port,  I  rode  up  to  the  French  mission,  whither  Dr.  Kirk, 
Capt.  Tucker,  and  his  executive  officer,  accompanied  by 
M.  de  Vienne,  the  French  Consul,  had  gone,  according  to 
a  hospitable  invitation  from  Pere  Horner,  superior  of 
the  Mission.  I  found  them  at  dinner  and  was  invited 
to  take  wine  with  them.  The  conversation  turned 
partly  upon  the  anticipated  pleasures  of  a  hunt  which 
they  were  organizing. 

At  6  a.m.  the  next  morning  Dr.  Kirk,  Capt 
Tucker,  his  executive  officer,  Consul  de  Yienne,  and 
Pere  Horner  started  for  the  Kingani  River  ;  later  in 
the  day  I  also  proceeded  to  the  Kingani  with  Farquhar, 
Shaw,  and  Sayd  bin  Sayf,  to  shoot  hippopotami. 

As  we  were  returning  to  camp,  in  the  plain  of  the 
Kingani,  we  met  Pere  Horner,  coming,  so  he  said, 
from  Kikoka,  the  first  camp  on  the  Unyanyembe  road 
from  Bagamoyo,  whither  he  had  gone  to  accompany 
the  sportsmen. 

On  the  following  Friday  evening  the  English  Con- 
sul's party  returned  from  the  hunt.  I  dined  with 
them  that  evening,  and  the  subject  of  conversation  was 
mainly  upon  their  experiences  in  the  woods  beyond  the 
Kingani.  I  was  informed  by  Dr.  Kirk  that  the  officers 
of  the  "  Columbine,"  with  their  pea-rifles,  had  not  been 
able  to  shoot  a  thing.  The  only  animals  killed  had 
been  shot  by  himself ;  and,  to  get  any  sport  at  all,  he 
had  been  obliged  to  proceed  alone  into  the  forest. 
"They  know  now"  (referring  to  the  officers),  said 
Dr.  Kirk,  "  what  reliance  is  to  be  placed  on  Sniders 
when  levelled  against  African  game." 

At  9  a.m.  the  next  morning  Dr.  Kirk  and  a  French 
padre  paid  me  a  visit  at  my  camp.  The  former  could 
only  be  prevailed  upon  to  take  a  cup  of  tea,  as  he  was 
going,  he  said,  to  see  about  Livingstone's  caravan. 

F 


IIOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


About  1 1  a.m.  I  heard  that  Dr.  Kirk  had  gone  on  board 
the  "  Columbine,"  and  that  the  children  of  the  French 
Mission  had  also  gone  with  a  full  brass-band  of  musicians 
to  entertain  the  sailors.  Between  3  and  4  p.m.  the 
"  Columbine  "  departed  for  Zanzibar. 

Bagamoyo  has  a  most  enjoyable  climate.  It  is  far 
preferable  in  every  sense  to  that  of  Zanzibar.  We 
were  able  to  sleep  in  the  open  air,  and  rose  refreshed 
and  healthy  each  morning,  to  enjoy  our  matutinal  bath 
in  the  sea  ;  and  bythe  time  the  sun  had  risen  we  were 
engaged  in  multitudinous  preparations  for  our  departure 
for  the  interior.  Our  days  were  enlivened  by  visits 
from  the  Arabs  who  were  also  bound  for  Unyanyembe  ; 
by  comical  scenes  in  the  camp,  sometimes  by  court- 
martials  held  on  the  refractory,  by  a  boxing-match 
between  Farquhar  and  Shaw,  necessitating  my  prudent 
interference  when  they  waxed  too  wroth  ;  by  a  hunt- 
ing excursion  now  and  then  to  the  Kingani  plain  and 
river ;  by  social  conversation  with  the  old  Jemadar  and 
his  band  of  Baluches,  who  were  never  tired  of  warning 
me  that  the  Masika  was  at  hand,  and  of  advising  me 
that  my  best  course  was  to  hurry  on  before  the  season 
for  travelling  expired. 

John  Shaw  would  get  sadly  out  of  temper  when 
these  visits  were  paid  by  the  swart  magnates  of  Baga- 
moyo. Upon  these  occasions  my  first  duty,  following 
the  custom  of  the  Arabs,  was  to  offer  refreshments  and 
coffee  to  my  visitors,  and  to  serve  them  first,  before 
passing  the  tray  to  the  white  men. 

I  observed  that  Shaw  seemed  very  indignant,  and  upon 
inquiring  the  cause,  I  was  informed  that  I  had  given 
him  great  offence  by  having  the  Arabs — "  niggers  "  as 
he  was  pleased  to  term  them — served  before  he — p 
white  man — was.    Poor  Shaw  !  ignorant  as  a  babe  of  the 


Feb.  1871.]  LIFE  AT  BJGAMOYO.  67 

calamities  in  store  for  him  in  that  country  to  which  his 
thoughts  were  now  directed,  what  would  he  not  have 
given  to  know  that  this  supposed  slight  on  his  colour  was 
the  least  trouble  to  be  borne  on  this  venturesome  Expedi- 
tion !  He  fully  showed  the  uneducated  Anglo-Saxon's 
inaptitude  for  travel  and  intercourse  with  other  races. 

As  the  days  passed  by  I  found  it  was  necessary  to 
separate  Farquhar  from  Shaw.  The  latter  proved  to  be 
a  character  without  a  grain  of  humor,  but  with  a  fund 
of  vanity  that  was  easily  alarmed,  and  a  fond  ambition 
which  soared  into  the  empyrean  with  him,  carrying 
him  often  beyond  all  bounds  of  human  conception. 

Farquhar  by  himself  I  thought  would  be  much  better 
off  than  with  Shaw,  who  had  certainly  a  most  irri- 
tating manner  to  a  man  of  Farquhar's  temper  and 
intelligence.  I  therefore  chose  him  to  lead  the  third 
caravan  into  the  interior,  and  upon  this  announcement 
of  my  intentions  peace  was  immediately  restored  between 
the  contumacious  belligerents. 

Among  the  employes  with  the  Expedition  were  two 
Hindi  and  two  Goanese.  They  had  conceived  the  idea 
that  the  African  interior  was  an  El  Dorado,  the  ground 
of  which  was  strewn  over  with  ivory  tusks,  and  they 
had  clubbed  together,  while  their  imaginations  were 
thus  heated,  to  embark  in  a  little  enterprise  of  their 
own.  Their  names  were  Jako,  Abdul  Kader,  Bunder 
Salaam,  and  Aranselar ;  Jako  engaged  in  my  service  as 
carpenter  and  general  help ;  Abdul  Kader  as  a  tailor,. 
Bunder  Salaam  as  cook,  and  Aranselar  as  chief  butler. 

But  Aranselar,  with  an  intuitive  eye,  foresaw  that  I 
was  likely  to  prove  a  vigorous  employer,  and  while 
there  was  yet  time  he  devoted  most  of  it  to  conceive 
how  it  were  possible  to  withdraw  from  the  engagement. 
He  received  permission  upon  asking  for  it  to  go  to 
Zanzibar  to  visit  his  friends.    Two  days  afterwards  I 

f  2 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


was  informed  he  had  blown  his  right  eye  out,  and 
received  a  medical  confirmation  of  the  fact,  and  note  of 
the  extent  of  the  injury,  from  Dr.  Christie,  the  physician 
to  His  Highness  Syed  Burghash.  His  compatriots  I 
imagined  were  about  planning  the  same  thing,  but  a 
peremptory  command  to  abstain  from  such  folly,  issued 
after  they  had  received  their  advance-pay,  sufficed  to 
check  any  sinister  designs  they  may  have  formed. 

A  groom  was  caught  stealing  from  the  bales,  one 
night,  and  the  chase  after  him  into  the  country  until 
he  vanished  out  of  sight  into  the  jungle,  was  one  of  the 
most  agreeabie  diversions  which  occurred  to  wear  away 
the  interval  employed  in  preparing  for  the  march. 

I  had  now  despatched  four  caravans  into  the  interior, 
and  the  fifth,  which  was  to  carry  the  boats  and  boxes, 
personal  luggage,  and  a  few  cloth  and  bead  loads,  was 
ready  to  be  led  by  myself.  The  following  is  the  order 
of  departure  of  the  caravans. 

1871.  Feb.  6. — Expedition  arrived  at  Bagamoyo. 

1871.  Feb.  18. — First  caravan  departs  with  twenty- 
four  pagazis  and  three  soldiers. 

1871 .  Feb.  21. — Second  caravan  departs  with  twenty- 
eight  pagazis,  two  chiefs,  and  two  soldiers. 

1871.  Feb.  25. — Third  caravan  departs  with  twenty- 
two  pagazis,  ten  donkeys,  one  white  man,  one  cook,  and 
three  soldiers. 

1871.  March  11. — Fourth  caravan  departs  with  fifty- 
five  pagazis,  two  chiefs,  and  three  soldiers. 

1871.  March  21.  —  Fifth  caravan  departs  with 
twenty-eight  pagazis,  twelve  soldiers,  two  white  men, 
one  tailor,  one  cook,  one  interpreter,  one  gun-bearer, 
seventeen  asses,  two  horses,  and  one  dog. 

Total  number,  inclusive  of  all  souls,  comprised  in 
caravans  connected  with  the  "  New  York  Herald 
Expedition,"  192. 


rORTRAIT  OF  BOMBAY  AND  MABRUKI. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


THROUGH   UKWERE,  UKAMI,   AND  UD0E  TO  USEGUHHA. 


^rom  Bagamoyo  to- 
>hamba  Gonera 
Kikoka 
Rosako 
Kingaru 
Imbiki . 
Msuwa 


m. 
30 
40 
0 
0 
30 
30 


From  Msuwa  to — 
Kisemo 
Mussoudi  . 
Mikeseh  . 
Muhalleh  . 
Simbarnwenni 


30 
20 

0 
45 

0 


Before  I  proceed  with  this  chapter  a  brief  space  must 
be  given  to  an  apology  which  I  tender  to  my  readers. 
Ego  is  first  and  foremost  in  this  book.  I  am  obliged  to 
exhibit  him  as  he  actually  was,  not  as  he  should  be ;  as 
he  behaved,  not  as  he  should  have  behaved ;  as  he 
travelled,  not  as  he  ought  to  have  travelled.  I  must, 
for  conscience'  sake,  report  all  things  literally  as  they 
occurred,  and  to  the  best  of  my  ability  record  the 


70 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


incidents  and  accidents  which  befell  the  Expedition. 
However  stay-at-home,  chimney-corner,  and  easy-chair 
loving  people  may  regard  the  merits  of  this  book,  the 
greatest  praise  and  the  greatest  thanks  will  be  bestowed 
on  it  by  travellers  who  may  succeed  me  in  East  Africa ; 
for  they  will  at  once  perceive  the  useful  lessons  taught 
them  by  my  haps  and  mishaps. 

On  the  21st  of  March,  exactly  seventy-three  days 
after  my  arrival  at  Zanzibar,  the  fifth  caravan,  led  by 
myself,  left  the  town  of  Bagamoyo  for  our  first  journey 
westward,  with  44  Forward  !"  for  its  mot  du  guet.  As 
the  kirangozi  unrolled  the  American  flag,  and  put  him- 
self at  the  head  of  the  caravan,  and  the  pagazis,  animals, 
soldiers,  and  idlers  were  lined  for  the  march,  we  bade  a 
long  farewell  to  the  dolce  far  niente  of  civilised  life,  to 
the  blue  ocean,  and  to  its  open  road  to  home,  to  the 
hundreds  of  dusky  spectators  who  were  there  to  cele- 
brate our  departure  with  repeated  salvoes  of  musketry. 

Our  caravan  is  composed  of  twenty-eight  pagazis,  in- 
cluding the  kirangozi,  or  guide ;  twelve  soldiers  under 
Capt.  Mbarak  Bombay,  in  charge  of  seventeen  donkeys 
and  their  loads ;  Selim,  my  boy  interpreter,  in  charge 
of  the  donkey  and  cart  and  its  load  ;  one  cook  and  sub, 
who  is  also  to  be  tailor  and  ready  hand  for  all,  and 
leads  the  grey  horse;  Shaw,  once  mate  of  a  ship,  now 
transformed  into  rearguard  and  overseer  for  the  caravan, 
who  is  mounted  on  a  good  riding-donkey,  and  wearing 
a  canoe-like  topee  and  sea-boots ;  and  lastly,  on  a 
splendid  bay  horse  (presented  to  me  by  Mr.  Goodhue, 
an  American  gentleman,  long  resident  at  Zanzibar), 
myself,  called  44  Bana  Mkuba,"  the  44  big  master,"  by  my 
people— the  vanguard,  the  reporter,  the  thinker,  and 
leader  of  the  Expedition. 

The  several  members  composing  the  caravan  are  well 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEOUHHA.  71 


known  to  me  already.  They  have  been  the  subjects  of 
study  and  selection,  and  no  fault  has  been  found  with 
them  yet ;  still,  as  it  is  rather  premature  to  describe 
their  characters,  I  shall  confine  myself  at  this  time  to 
simply  naming  the  principal  personages  in  the  order  and 
rank  they  hold : 


1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 
15. 
16. 
17. 
18. 
19. 
20. 
21. 
22. 
23. 
24. 
25. 


soldier. 


John  W.  Shaw,  rearguard  and  overseer. 
Mbarak  Bombay,  captain  of  soldiers. 
Uledi  (Speke's  valet),  sergeant. 
Mabruki  (Burton's  valet),  tentguard. 
Mabruki  the  Little 
Mabruk  Saleem 

Zaidi  .... 
Kamna  .... 
Sarmian  .... 
Ferajji  (a  runaway  of  Speke's) 
Kingaru  .... 
Ambari  .... 
Selim  (boy  from  Jerusalem),  Arab  interpreter. 
Bunder  Salaam  (of  Malabar),  cook. 
Abdul  Kader  „  tailor  and  help. 

Hamadi  (Wangwana),  kirangozi. 


Sarboko 

Jafooneh 

Farjalla 

Khamisi 

Asmani 

Chamba 

Shubari 

Makoriga 

Khamis 


pagazi, 


Probably  some  of  these  people  above  named  will 
acquire  habits  or  exhibit  characters  very  different  from 


72 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


those  I  imagined  them  to  have  while  en  route  to  Un« 
yanyembe.  We  shall  be  better  judges  of  them  and 
their  points  when  we  shall  have  arrived  at  Tabora, 
where  a  general  muster  will  be  made  for  inspection, 
and  to  hear  the  reports  of  the  four  caravans  which  have 
preceded  us.  Altogether  the  Expedition  numbers  on  the 
day  of  departure  three  white  men,  twenty-three  soldiers, 
four  supernumeraries,  four  chiefs,  and  one  hundred  and 
fifty-three  pagazis,  twenty-seven  donkeys,  and  one  cart, 
conveying  cloth,  beads,  and  wire,  boat-fixings,  tents, 
cooking  utensils  and  dishes,  medicine,  powder,  small 
shot,  musket-balls,  and  metallic  cartridges ;  instruments 
and  small  necessaries,  such  as  soap,  sugar,  tea,  coffee, 
Liebig's  extract  of  meat,  peinmican,  candles,  &c,  which 
make  a  total  of  153  loads.  The  weapons  of  defence 
which  the  Expedition  possesses  consist  of  one  double- 
barrel  breech-loading  gun,  smooth  bore  ;  one  American 
Winchester  rifle,  or  44  sixteen-shooter one  Henry  rifle, 
or  44  sixteen-shooter  ;"  two  Starr's  breech-loaders,  one 
Jocelyn  breech-loader,  one  elephant  rifle,  carrying  balls 
eight  to  the  pound ;  two  breech-loading  revolvers, 
twenty-four  muskets  (flint-locks),  six  single-barreled 
pistols,  one  battle-axe,  two  swords,  two  daggers  (Per- 
sian kummers,  purchased  at  Shiraz  by  myself),  one 
boar-spear,  two  American  axes  4  lbs.  each,  twenty-four 
hatchets,  and  twenty-four  butcher-knives. 

The  Expedition  has  been  fitted  with  care ;  whatever 
it  needed  was  not  stinted  ;  everything  was  provided. 
Nothing  was  done  too  hurriedly,  yet  everything  was 
purchased,  manufactured,  collected,  and  compounded 
with  the  utmost  despatch  consistent  with  efficiency  and 
means.  Should  it  fail  of  success  in  its  errand  of  rapid 
transit  to  Ujiji  and  back,  it  must  simply  happen  from 
an  accident  which  could  not  be  controlled.    So  much 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  73 


for  the  personnel  of  the  Expedition  and  its  purpose,  until 
its  point  de  mire  be  reached. 

We  left  Bagamoyo  the  attraction  of  all  the  curious, 
with  much  eclat,  and  defiled  up  a  narrow  lane  shaded 
almost  to  twilight  by  the  dense  umbrage  of  two  parallel 
hedges  of  mimosas.  We  were  all  in  the  highest 
spirits.  The  soldiers  sang,  the  kirangozi  lifted  his 
voice  into  a  loud  bellowing  note,  and  fluttered  the 
American  flag,  which  told  all  on-lookers,  "  Lo,  a  Mu- 
sungu  s  caravan  !"  and  my  heart,  I  thought,  palpitated 
much  too  quickly  for  the  sober  face  of  a  leader.  But  I 
could  not  check  it ;  the  enthusiasm  of  youth  still  clung 
to  me — despite  my  travels  ;  my  pulses  bounded  with  the 
full  glow  of  staple  health ;  behind  me  were  the  troubles 
which  had  harassed  me  for  over  two  months.  With 
that  dishonest  son  of  a  Hindi,  Soor  Hadji  Palloo,  I 
had  said  my  last  word  ;  of  the  blatant  rabble  of  Arabs; 
Banyans,  and  Baluches  I  had  taken  my  last  look ; 
with  the  Jesuits  of  the  French  Mission  I  had  exchanged 
farewells,  and  before  me  beamed  the  sun  of  promise 
as  he  sped  towards  the  Occident.  Loveliness  glowed 
around  me.  I  saw  fertile  fields,  riant  vegetation, 
strange  trees— I  heard  the  cry  of  cricket  and  pee- wit, 
and  sibilant  sound  of  many  insects,  all  of  which  seemed 
to  tell  me,  "  At  last  you  are  started."  What  could  I 
do  but  lift  my  face  toward  the  pure-glowing  sky,  and 
cry,  "  God  be  thanked !" 

The  first  camp,  Shamba  Gonera,  we  arrived  at  in 
1  hour  30  minutes,  equal  to  3i  miles.  This  first,  or  "  little 
journey,"  was  performed  very  well,  "  considering,'" 
as  the  Irishman  says.  The  boy  Selim  upset  the  cart  not 
more  than  three  times.  Zaidi,  the  soldier,  only  once  let 
his  donkey,  which  carried  one  bag  of  my  clothes  and  a 
box  of  ammunition,  lie  in  a  puddle  of  black  water.  The 


74 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


clothes  had  to   be   re- washed ;   the  ammunition-box, 

thanks  to  my  prevision,  was  waterproof.  Kamna 
perhaps  knew  the  art  of  donkey-driving,  but,  over- 
joyful  at  the  departure,  had  sung  himself  into  oblivion 
of  the  difficulties  with  which  an  animal  of  the  pure  asi- 
nine breed  has  naturally  to  contend,  such  as  not  know- 
ing the  right  road,  and  inability  to  resist  the  temptation 
of  straying  into  the  depths  of  a  manioc  field ;  and  the 
donkey,  ignorant  of  the  custom  in  vogue  amongst  ass- 
drivers  of  flourishing  sticks  before  an  animal's  nose, 
and  misunderstanding  the  direction  in  which  he  was 
required  to  go,  ran  off  at  full  speed  along  an  opposite 
road,  until  his  pack  got  unbalanced,  and  he  was  fain 
to  come  to  the  earth.  But  these  incidents  were  trivial, 
of  no  importance,  and  natural  to  the  first  "  little 
journey  "  in  East  iifrica. 

The  soldiers'  points  of  character  leaked  out  just  a 
little.  Bombay  turned  out  to  be  honest  and  trusty,  but 
slightly  disposed  to  be  dilatory.  Uledi  did  more  talking 
than  work ;  while  the  runaway  Ferajji  and  the  useless- 
handed  Mabruki  Burton  turned  out  to  be  true  men 
and  staunch,  carrying  loads  the  sight  of  which  would 
have  caused  the  strong-limbed  hamals  of  Stamboul  to 
sigh. 

The  saddles  were  excellent,  surpassing  expectation. 
The  strong  hemp  canvas  bore  its  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
pounds'  burden  with  the  strength  of  bull  hide,  and  the 
loading  and  unloading  of  miscellaneous  baggage  was 
performed  with  systematic  despatch.  In  brief,  there 
was  nothing  to  regret — the  success  of  the  journey 
proved  our  departure  t3  be  anything  but  premature. 

The  next  three  days  were  employed  in  putting  the 
finishing  touches  to  our  preparations  for  the  long  land 
journey  and  our  precautions  against  the  Masika,  which 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUIIHA.  75 


was  now  ominously  near,  and  in  settling  accounts. 
The  soldiers  and  pagazis  employed  the  interval  in 
visiting  their  female  friends  ;  but  I  forbear  the  chro- 
nique  scandaleuse. 

Shamba  Gonera  means  Gronera's  Field.  Gonera 
is  a  wealthy  Indian  widow,  well  disposed  towards  the 
Wasungu  (whites).  She  exports  much  cloth,  beads, 
and  wire  into  the  far  interior,  and  imports  in  return 
much  ivory.  Her  house  is  after  the  model  of  the  town 
houses,  with  long  sloping  roof  and  projecting  eaves, 
affording  a  cool  shade,  under  which  the  joagazis  love  to 
loiter.  On  its  southern  and  eastern  sides  stretch  the 
cultivated  fields  which  supply  Bagamoyo  with  the 
staple  grain,  matama,  of  East  Africa;  on  the  left  grow 
Indian  corn,  and  muhogo,  a  yam-like  root  of  whitish 
color,  called  by  some  manioc ;  when  dry,  it  is  ground 
and  compounded  into  cakes  similar  to  army  slapjacks. 
On  the  north,  just  behind  the  house,  winds  a  black  quag- 
mire, a  sinuous  hollowT,  which  in  its  deepest  parts  always 
contains  water — the  muddy  home  of  the  brake-  and  rush- 
loving  "  kiboko  "  or  hippopotamus.  Its  banks,  crowded 
with  dwarf  fan-palm,  tall  water-reeds,  acacias,  and 
tiger-grass,  afford  shelter  to  numerous  aquatic  birds, 
pelicans,  &c.  After  following  a  course  north-easterly,  it 
conflows  with  the  Kingani,  which,  at  the  distance  of  four 
miles  from  Gonera's  country-house,  bend*  eastward  into 
the  sea.  To  the  west,  after  a  mile  of  cultivation,  fall 
and  recede  in  succession  the  sea-beaches  of  old  in 
lengthy  parallel  waves,  overgrown  densely  with  forest 
grass  and  marsh  reeds.  On  the  spines  of  these  land- 
swells  flourish  ebony,  calabash,  and  mango. 

"  Sofari — sofari  leo  !  Pakia,  pakia  !" — "  A  journey — 
a  journey  to-day  !  Set  out ! — set  out !"  rang  the  cheery 
voice  of  the  kirangozi,  echoed  by  that  of  my  drum- 


76 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


major,  servant,  general  help  and  useful  hand,  the  Arab 
boy  Selim,  on  the  morning  of  the  fourth  day,  which 
was  that  fixed  for  our  departure  in  earnest.  As  I  hurried 
my  men  to  their  work,  and  lent  a  hand  with  energy  to 
drop  the  tents,  I  mentally  resolved  that,  if  my  caravans 
ahead  should  give  me  clear  space,  Unyanyembe  should 
be  our  resting-place  before  three  months  expired.  By 
6  a.m.  our  early  breakfast  was  despatched,  and  the 
donkeys  and  pagazis  were  defiling  from  Camp  Gonera. 
Even  at  this  early  hour,  and  in  this  country  place, 
there  was  quite  a  collection  of  curious  natives,  to  whom 
we  gave  the  parting  "  quahary"  with  sincerity.  My  bay 
horse  was  found  to  be  invaluable  for  the  service  of  a 
quarter-master  of  a  transport-train ;  for  to  such  was  I 
compelled  to  compare  myself.  I  could  stay  behind 
until  the  last  donkey  had  quitted  the  camp,  and,  by  a 
few  minutes'  gallop,  I  could  put  myself  at  the  head, 
leaving  Shaw  to  bring  up  the  rear. 

The  road  was  a  mere  footpath,  and  led  over  a  soil, 
which,  though  sandy,  was  of  surprising  fertility,  produc- 
ing grain  and  vegetables  a  hundredfold,  the  sowing  and 
planting  of  which  was  done  in  the  most  unskilful 
manner.  In  their  fields,  at  heedless  labor,  were  men 
and  women  in  the  scantiest  costumes,  compared  to  whicli 
Adam  and  Eve,  in  their  fig-leaf  apparel,  must  have  been 
en  grande  tenue.  Nor  were  they  at  all  abashed  by  the 
devouring  gaze  of  men  who  were  strangers  to  clotheless 
living  bodies,  nor  did  they  seem  to  comprehend  why 
inordinate  curiosity  should  be  returned  with  more  than 
interest.  They  left  their  work  as  the  Wasungu  drew 
nigh ;  such  hybrids  in  solar  topees,  white  flannels,  and 
horse -boots  were  they  !  Had  the  Wasungu  been  desirous 
of  studying  the  outlines  of  anatomy  and  physiology, 
what  a  rich  field  for  study  !    We  passed  them  with 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UK  WE  BE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHI1A.  77 

serious  faces,  while  they  laughed  and  giggled,  and 
pointed  their  index  fingers  at  this  and  that,  which  to 
them  seemed  so  strange  and  bizarre. 

In  about  half  an  hour  we  had  left  the  tall  matama 
and  fields  of  water-melons,  cucumbers,  and  manioc ; 
and,  crossing  a  reedy  slough,  were  in  an  open  forest  of 
ebony  and  calabash.  In  its  depths  are  deer  in  plentiful 
numbers,  and  at  night  it  is  visited  by  the  hippopotami 
of  the  Kingani  for  the  sake  of  its  grass.  In  another 
hour  we  had  emerged  from  the  woods,  and  were  looking 
down  upon  the  broad  valley  of  the  Kingani,  and  a  scene 
presented  itself  so  utterly  different  from  what  my  foolish 
imagination  had  drawn,  that  I  felt  quite  relieved  by  the 
pleasing  disappointment.  Here  was  a  valley  stretching 
four  miles  east  and  west,  and  about  eight  miles  north 
and  south,  left  with  the  richest  soil  to  its  own  wild 
growth  of  grass — which  in  civilisation  would  have  been 
a  most  valuable  meadow  for  the  rearing  of  cattle — in- 
vested as  it  was  by  dense  forests,  darkening  the  horizon 
at  all  points  of  the  compass,  and  folded  in  by  tree-clad 
ridges. 

At  the  sound  of  our  caravan  the  red  antelope  bounded 
away  to  our  right  and  the  left,  and  frogs  hushed  their 
croak.  The  sun  shone  hot,  and  while  traversing  the 
valley  we  experienced  a  little  of  its  real  African  fervor. 
About  half-way  across  we  came  to  a  sluice  of  stagnant 
water  which,  directly  in  the  road  of  the  caravan,  had 
settled  down  into  an  oozy  pond.  The  pagazis  crossed 
a  hastily-constructed  bridge,  thrown  up  a  long  time 
ago  by  some  Washensi  Samaritans.  It  was  an  extra- 
ordinary affair ;  rugged  tree  limbs  resting  on  very 
unsteady  forked  piles,  and  it  had  evidently  tested  the 
patience  of  many  a  loaded  Mnyamwezi,  as  it  did  those 
porters  of  our  caravan.     Our  weaker  animals  were 


78 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


unloaded,  the  puddle  between  Bagamoyo  and  Gonera 
having  taught  us  prudence.  But  this  did  not  occasion 
much  delay,  the  men  worked  smartly  under  Shaw's 
supervision. 

The  turbid  Kingani,  famous  for  its  hippopotami,  was 
reached  in  a  short  time,  and  we  began  to  thread  the 
jungle  along  its  right  bank  until  we  were  halted  point- 
blank  by  a  narrow  sluice  having  an  immeasurable 
depth  of  black  mud.  The  difficulty  presented  by  this 
was  very  grave,  though  its  breadth  was  barely  eight 
feet ;  the  donkeys  and  least  of  all  the  horses,  could  not 
be  made  to  traverse  two  poles  like  our  biped  carriers, 
neither  could  they  be  driven  into  the  sluice  where  they 
would  quickly  founder.  The  only  available  way  of 
crossing  it  in  safety  was  by  means  of  a  bridge,  to 
endure  in  this  conservative  land  for  generations  as  the 
handiwork  of  the  Wasungu.  So  we  set  to  work,  there 
being  no  help  for  it,  with  American  axes — the  first  of 
their  kind  the  strokes  of  which  ever  rang  in  this  part 
of  the  world — to  build  a  bridge.  Be  sure  it  was  made 
quickly,  for  where  the  civilised  white  is  found,  a  diffi- 
culty must  vanish.  The  bridge  was  composed  of  six 
stout  trees  thrown  across,  over  these  were  laid  cross- 
wise fifteen  pack  saddles,  covered  again  with  a  thick 
layer  of  grass.  All  the  animals  crossed  it  safely,  and 
then  for  a  third  time  that  morning  the  process  of  wading 
was  performed.  The  Kingani  flowed  northerly  here, 
and  our  course  lay  down  its  right  bank.  A  half  mile 
in  that  direction  through  a  jungle  of  giant  reeds  and 
extravagant  climbers  brought  us  to  the  ferry,  where 
the  animals  had  to  be  again  unloaded — verily,  I  wished 
when  I  saw  its  deep  muddy  waters  that  I  possessed  the 
power  of  Moses  with  his  magic  rod,  or  what  would  have 
answered  my  purpose  as  well,  Aladdin's  ring,  for  then 


March,  1871.]  THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  78 


I  could  have  found  myself  and  party  on  the  opposite 
side  without  further  trouble  :  but  not  having  either  of 
these  gifts  I  issued  orders  for  an  immediate  crossing, 
for  it  was  ill  wishing  sublime  things  before  this  most 
mundane  prospect. 

Kingwere,  the  canoe  paddler,  espying  us  from  his 
brake  covert  on  the  opposite  side,  civilly  responded  to 
our  halloes,  and  brought  his  huge  hollowed  tree  skilfully 
over  the  whirling  eddies  of  the  river  to  where  we  stood 
waiting  for  him.  While  one  party  loaded  the  canoe  with 
our  goods,  others  got  ready  a  long  rope  to  fasten  around 
the  animals'  necks  wherewith  to  haul  them  through 
the  river  to  the  other  bank.  After  seeing  the  work 
properly  commenced,  I  sat  down  on  a  condemned  canoe 
to  amuse  myself  with  the  hippopotami  by  peppering 
their  thick  skulls  with  my  No.  12  smooth-bore.  The 
Winchester  rifle  (calibre  44),  a  present  from  the  Hon. 
Edward  Joy  Morris — our  minister  at  Constantinople — 
did  no  more  than  slightly  tap  them,  causing  about  as 
much  injury  as  a  boy's  sling;  it  was  perfect  in  its  accu- 
racy of  fire,  for  ten  times  in  succession  I  struck  the  tops 
of  their  heads  between  the  ears.  One  old  fellow,  with 
the  look  of  a  sage,  was  tapped  close  to  the  right  ear  by 
one  of  these  bullets.  Instead  of  submerging  himself 
as  others  had  done  he  coolly  turned  round  his  head  as 
if  to  ask,  "  Why  this  waste  of  valuable  cartridges  on 
us  ?"  The  response  to  the  mute  inquiry  of  his  sageship 
was  an  ounce-and-a-quarter  bullet  from  the  smooth- 
bore, which  made  him  bellow  with  pain,  and  in  a  few 
moments  he  rose  up  again  tumbling  in  his  death 
agonies.  As  his  groans  were  so  piteous,  I  refrained 
from  a  useless  sacrifice  of  life,  and  left  the  amphibious 
horde  in  peace. 

A  little  knowledge  concerning  these  uncouth  inmates 


80 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


of  the  African  waters  was  gained  even  during  the  few 
minutes  we  were  delayed  at  the  ferry.  When  undis- 
turbed by  foreign  sounds,  they  congregate  in  shallow 
water  on  the  sand  bars,  with  the  fore  half  of  their 
bodies  exposed  to  the  warm  sunshine,  and  are  in 
appearance,  when  thus  somnolently  reposing,  very  like 
a  herd  of  enormous  swine.  When  startled  by  the  noise 
of  an  intruder,  they  plunge  hastily  into  the  depths, 
lashing  the  waters  into  a  yellowish  foam,  and  scatter 
themselves  below  the  surface,  when  presently  the  heads 
of  a  few  reappear,  snorting  the  water  from  their  nostrils, 
to  take  a  fresh  breath  and  a  cautious  scrutiny  around 
them  ;  when  thus,  we  see  but  their  ears,  forehead,  eyes, 
and  nostrils,  and  as  they  hastily  submerge  again  it 
requires  a  steady  wrist  and  a  quick  hand  to  shoot  them. 
I  have  heard  several  comparisons  made  of  their  appear- 
ance while  floating  in  this  manner :  some  Arabs  told 
me  before  I  had  seen  them  that  they  looked  like  dead 
trees  carried  down  the  river  ;  others  who  in  some  country 
had  seen  hogs,  thought  they  resembled  Jhem,  but  to  my 
mind  they  look  more  like  horses  when  swimming — 
their  curved  necks  and  pointed  ears,  their  wide  eyes, 
and  expanded  nostrils,  favor  greatly  this  comparison. 

At  night  they  seek  the  shore,  and  wander  several 
miles  over  the  country,  luxuriating  among  its  rank 
grasses.  To  within  four  miles  of  the  town  of  Bagamoyo 
(the  Kiagani  is  eight  miles  distant)  their  wide  tracks 
are  seen.  Frequently,  if  not  disturbed  by  the  startling- 
human  voice,  they  make  a  raid  on  the  rich  corn-stalks 
of  the  native  cultivators,  and  a  dozen  of  them  will  in  a 
few  minutes  make  a  frightful  havoc  in  a  large  field  oJ 
this  plant.  Consequently,  we  were  not  surprised,  while 
delayed  at  the  ferry,  to  hear  the  owners  of  the  corn 
yenting  loud  halloes,  like  the  rosy-cheeked  farmer  boys 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  81 


in  England  when  scaring  the  crows  away  from  the 
young  wheat. 

The  caravan  in  the  meanwhile  had  crossed  safely — 
bales,  baggage,  donkeys,  and  men.  I  had  thought  to 
have  camped  on  the  bank,  so  as  to  amuse  myself  with 
shooting  antelope,  and  also  for  the  sake  of  procuring 
their  meat,  in  order  to  save  my  goats,  of  which  I  had  a 
number  constituting  my  live  stock  of  provisions ;  but, 
thanks  to  the  awe  and  dread  which  my  men  entertained 
of  the  hippopotami,  1  was  hurried  on  to  the  outpost  of 
the  Baluch  garrison  at  Bagamoyo,  a  small  village  called 
Kikoka,  distant  four  miles  from  the  river. 

The  western  side  of  ihe  river  was  a  considerable 
improvement  upon  the  eastern.  The  plain,  slowly 
heaving  upwards,  as  smoothly  as  the  beach  of  a 
watering-place,  for  the  distance  of  a  mile,  until  it 
culminated  in  a  gentle  and  rounded  ridge,  presented 
none  of  those  difficulties  which  troubled  us  on  the  other 
side.  There  were  none  of  those  cataclysms  of  mire  and 
sloughs  of  black  mud  and  over-tall  grasses,  none  of  that 
miasmatic  jungle  with  its  noxious  emissions ;  it  was 
just  such  a  scene  as  one  may  find  before  an  English 
mansion — a  noble  expanse  of  lawn  and  sward,  with 
boscage  sufficient  to  agreeably  diversify  it.  After 
traversing  the  open  plain,  the  road  led  through  a  grove 
of  young  ebony  trees,  where  guinea-fowls  and  a 
liartebeest  were  seen;  it  then  wound,  with  all  the 
characteristic  eccentric  curves  of  a  goat-path,  up  and 
down  a  succession  of  land-waves  crested  by  the  dark 
green  foliage  of  the  mango,  and  the  scantier  and  lighter- 
coloured  leaves  of  the  enormous  calabash.  The  depres- 
sions were  filled  with  jungle  of  more  or  less  density, 
while  here  and  there  opened  glades,  shadowed  even 
during  noon  by  thin  groves  of  towering  trees.    At  our 

G 


82 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


approach  fled  in  terror  flocks  of  green  pigeons,  jays, 
ibis,  turtledoves,  golden  pheasants,  quails  and  moorhens, 
with  crows  and  hawks,  while  now  and  then  a  solitary 
pelican  winged  its  way  to  the  distance. 

Nor  was  this  enlivening  prospect  without  its  pairs 
of  antelope,  and  monkeys  which  popped  away  like 
Australian  kangaroos ;  these  latter  were  of  good  size, 
with  round  bullet  heads,  white  breasts,  and  long  tails 
tufted  at  the  end. 

We  arrived  at  Kikoka  by  5  p.m.,  having  loaded  and 
unloaded  our  pack  animals  four  times,  crossing  one 
deep  puddle,  a  mud  sluice,  and  a  river,  and  performed 
a  journey  of  eleven  miles. 

The  settlement  of  Kikoka  is  a  collection  of  straw 
huts,  not  built  after  any  architectural  style,  but  after  a 
bastard  form,  invented  by  indolent  settlers  from  the 
Mrima  and  Zanzibar,  for  the  purpose  of  excluding  as 
much  sunshine  as  possible  from  the  eaves  and  interior. 
A  sluice  and  some  wells  provide  them  with  water, 
which  though  sweet  is  not  particularly  wholesome  or 
appetizing,  owing  to  the  large  quantities  of  decayed 
matter  which  is  washed  into  it  by  the  rains,  and  is  then 
left  to  corrupt  in  it.  A  weak  effort  has  been  made 
to  clear  the  neighbourhood  for  providing  a  place  for 
cultivation,  but  to  the  dire  task  of  wood-chopping  and 
jungle-clearing  the  settlers  prefer  occupying  an  open 
glade,  which  they  clear  of  grass,  so  as  to  be  able  to 
hoe  up  two  or  three  inches  of  soil,  into  which  they  cast 
their  seed,  confident  of  return. 

To  induce  my  readers  to  open  the  map  which  I  have 
prepared,  and  which  accompanies  this  book,  I  must 
state  that  the  route  traversed  by  me  was  never  traversed 
by  a  white  man  previously.  If  they  will  also  take  the 
trouble  of  ascertaining  the  route  undertaken  by  Burton 


Maboh,  1871.]    THROUGH  UK  WE  BE,  ETC.,  TO  U8EGUHHA.  83 

and  Speke,  subsequently  by  Speke  and  Grant,  there 
will  be  found  to  be  a  wide  difference  between  mine 
and  that  of  my  predecessors.  On  Burton's  map,  the 
country,  for  five  degrees  of  longitude  directly  west  of 
Bagamoyo,  is  entirely  barren,  of  towns  and  villages  and 
settlements ;  on  my  map  this  deficiency  is  supplied,  and 
thus  little  by  little  the  great  heart  of  Africa  is  becoming 
better  known.  Whatever  may  be  discovered  by  me  on 
*  this  route,  to  white  men  hitherto  unknown  or  unverified, 
I  beg  to  lay  claim  even  to  that  little  as  its  discoverer. 
My  object  in  tendering  this  request  is  that  a  certain 
travelled  gentleman  at  Zanzibar,  who  has  been  residing 
there  some  years,  tried  to  deter  me  from  proceeding  by 
this  road,  by  stating  that  such  a  journey  would  be 
totally  devoid  of  interest,  as  the  whole  country  was 
well  known.  His  motives  were  most  generous,  he 
would  have  wished  that  I  should  ascend  the  Rufiji 
River,  so  that  it  might  become  known  to  geographers. 
From  my  heart  I  wished  that  I  could,  but  circumstances 
forbade  the  effort.  I  was  sent  out  on  an  errand,  not 
as  a  discoverer,  and  the  quickest  and  shortest  method 
of  fulfilling  my  duty  was  to  be  my  study.  If  that 
quickest  and  shortest  method  took  me  along  a  well- 
known  road  traversed  by  three  gentlemen,  each  of 
whom  has  written  what  he  knows  of  it,  the  blame  or 
fault  is  not  mine  ;  but  as  it  has  proved  that  it  took 
me  along  an  un travelled  road,  through  a  hitherto  un- 
known country,  so  much  the  more  fortunate  am  I.  I 
excluded  the  Rufiji  route  from  my  mind  as  being 
totally  impracticable  with  my  means,  and  preferred  to 
choose  the  road  through  Ukwere,  Ukami,  Udoe, 
Useguhha,  Usagara,  and  Northern  Ugogo ;  the  result 
and  duration  of  the  march  proves  that  I  could  not  have 
bettered  myself,  it  being  a  direct  western  course. 

a  2 


84 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  next  day  was  a  halt  at  Kikoka ;  the  fourth 
caravan,  consisting  solely  of  Wanyamwezi,  proving  a 
sore  obstacle  to  a  rapid  advance.  Maganga,  its  chief, 
devised  several  methods  of  extorting  more  cloth  and 
presents  from  me,  he  having  cost  already  more  than 
any  three  chiefs  together,  but  his  efforts  were  of  no 
avail  further  than  obtaining  promises  of  reward  if  he 
would  hurry  on  to  Unyanyembe  so  that  I  might  find 
my  road  clear. 

On  the  27th,  the  Wanyamwezi  having  started,  we 
broke  camp  soon  after  at  7  a.m.  The  country  was  of 
the  same  nature  as  that  lying  between  the  Kingani 
and  Kikoka — a  park  land,  attractive  and  beautiful  in 
every  feature. 

I  rode  in  advance  to  secure  meat  should  a  chance 
present  itself,  but  not  the  shadow  of  vert  or  venison  did 
I  see.  Ever  in  our  front — westerly — rolled  the  land- 
waves,  now  rising,  now  subsiding,  parallel  one  with 
the  other  like  a  ploughed  field  many  times  magnified. 
Each  ridge  had  its  knot  of  jungle  or  its  thin  combing 
of  heavily  foliaged  trees,  until  we  arrived  close  to 
Rosako,  our  next  halting  place,  when  the  monotonous 
wavure  of  the  land  underwent  a  change,  breaking  into 
independent  hummocks  clad  with  dense  jungle.  On 
one  of  these,  veiled  by  an  impenetrable  jungle  of  thorny 
acacia,  rested  Rosako,  girt  round  by  its  natural  fortifica- 
tion, neighbouring  another  village  to  the  north  of  it 
similarly  protected.  Between  them  sank  a  valley  ex- 
tremely fertile  and  bountiful  in  its  productions,  bisected 
by  a  small  stream  which  serves  as  a  drain  to  the  valley 
or  low  hills  surrounding  it. 

Rosako  is  the  frontier  village  of  Ukwere,  while 
Kikoka  is  the  north-western  extremity  of  Uzaramo. 
We  entered   this   village,  and   occupied  its  central 


March,  1871. j    THROUGH  UK  WERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEOUHHA.  85 


portion  with  our  tents  and  animals.  A  kitanda,  or 
square  light  bedstead,  without  valance,  fringe,  or 
any  superfluity  whatever,  but  nevertheless  quite  as 
comfortable  as  with  them,  was  brought  to  my  tent  for 
my  use  by  the  village  chief.  The  animals  were,  imme- 
diately after  being  unloaded,  driven  out  to  feed,  and 
the  soldiers  to  a  man  set  to  work  to  pile  the  baggage  up, 
lest  the  rain,  which  during  the  Masika  season  always 
appears  imminent,  might  cause  irreparable  damage. 

Among  other  experiments  which  I  was  about  to  try  in 
Africa  was  that  of  a  good  watch-dog  on  any  unmannerly 
people  who  would  insist  upon  coming  into  my  tent  at 
untimely  hours  and  endangering  valuables.  Especially 
did  I  wish  to  try  the  effect  of  its  bark  on  the  mighty 
Wgogo,  who,  I  was  told  by  certain  Arabs,  would  lift  the 
door  of  the  tent  and  enter  whether  you  wished  them  or 
not ;  who  would  chuckle  at  the  fear  they  inspired,  and 
say  to  you,  "  Hi,  hi,  white  man,  I  never  saw  the  like  of 
you  before ;  are  there  many  more  like  you  ?  where  do 
you  come  from  ?"  Also  would  they  take  hold  of  your 
watch  and  ask  you  with  a  cheerful  curiosity,  "  What 
is  this  for,  white  man  ?"  to  which  you  of  course  would 
reply  that  it  was  to  tell  you  the  hour  and  minute.  But 
the  Wgogo,  proud  of  his  prowess,  and  more  unmannerly 
than  a  brute,  would  answer  you  with  a  snort  of  insult, 
saying,  "  Oh,  you  fool !"  or,  "  You  be  damned  for  a 
liar!"  I  thought  of  a  watch-dog,  and  procured  a  good 
one  at  Bombay  not  only  as  a  faithful  companion,  but  to 
threaten  the  heels  of  just  such  gentry. 

But  soon  after  our  arrival  at  Rosako  it  was  found 
that  the  dog,  whose  name  was  "  Omar,"  given  him  from 
his  Turkish  origin,  was  missing  ;  he  had  strayed  away 
from  the  soldiers  during  a  rain-squall  and  had  got 
lost.    I  despatched  Mabruki  Burton  back  to  Kikoka  to 


86 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTOJSjl. 


search  for  him.  On  the  following  morning,  just 
as  we  were  about  to  leave  Rosako,  the  faithful  fellow 
returned  with  the  lost  dog,  having  found  him  at 
Kikoka. 

Previous  to  our  departure  on  the  morning  after  this, 
Maganga,  chief  of  the  fourth  caravan,  brought  me  the  un- 
happy report  that  three  of  his  pagazis  were  sick,  and  he 
would  like  to  have  some  "  dowa  " — medicine.  Though 
not  a  doctor,  or  in  any  way  connected  with  the  pro- 
fession, I  had  a  well-supplied  medicine  chest — without 
which  no  traveller  in  Africa  could  live — for  just  such  a 
contingency  as  was  now  present.  On  visiting  Maganga's 
sick  men,  I  found  one  suffering  from  inflammation  of 
the  lungs,  another  from  the  Mukunguru  (African  inter- 
mittent), and  the  third  from  a  venereal  affection.  They 
all  imagined  themselves  about  to  die,  and  called  loudly 
for  "Mama!"  "  Mama !"  though  they  were  all  grown 
men.  It  was  evident  that  the  fourth  caravan  could  not 
stir  that  day,  so  leaving  word  with  Maganga  to  hurry 
after  me  as  soon  as  possible,  I  issued  orders  for  the 
march  of  my  own. 

Excepting  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  villages  which 
we  have  passed  there  were  no  traces  of  cultivation. 
The  country  extending  between  the  several  stations 
is  as  much  a  wilderness  as  the  desert  of  Sahara,  though 
it  possesses  a  far  more  pleasing  aspect.  Indeed,  had 
the  first  man  at  the  time  of  the  Creation  gazed  at  his 
world  and  perceived  it  of  the  beauty  which  belongs  to 
this  part  of  Africa,  he  would  have  had  no  cause  of  com- 
plaint. In  the  deep  thickets,  set  like  islets  amid  a  sea 
of  grassy  verdure,  he  would  have  found  shelter  from 
the  noonday  heat,  and  a  safe  retirement  for  himself  and 
spouse  during  the  awesome  darkness.  In  the  morning 
he  could  have  walked  forth  on  the  sloping  sward. 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEOUHHA.  87 

enjoyed  its  freshness,  and  performed  his  ablutions  in 
one  of  the  many  small  streams  flowing  at  its  foot.  His 
garden  of  fruit-trees  is  all  that  is  required ;  the  noble 
forests,  deep  and  cool,  are  round  about  him,  and  in  their 
shade  walk  as  many  animals  as  one  can  desire.  For 
days  and  days  let  a  man  walk  in  any  direction,  north, 
south,  east,  and  west,  and  he  will  behold  the  same  scene. 

Earnestly  as  I  wished  to  hurry  on  to  Unyanyembe, 
still  a  heart-felt  anxiety  about  the  arrival  of  my 
goods  carried  by  the  fourth  caravan,  served  as  a 
drag  upon  me,  and  before  my  caravan  had  marched 
nine  miles  my  anxiety  had  risen  to  the  highest  pitch, 
and  caused  me  to  order  a  camp  there  and  then.  The 
place  selected  for  it  was  near  a  long  straggling  sluice, 
having  an  abundance  of  water  during  the  rainy  season, 
draining  as  it  does  two  extensive  slopes.  No  sooner 
had  we  pitched  our  camp,  built  a  boma  of  thorny 
acacia,  and  other  tree  branches,  by  stacking  them 
round  our  camp,  and  driven  our  animals  to  grass,  than 
we  were  made  aware  of  the  formidable  number  and 
variety  of  the  insect  tribe,  which  for  a  time  was  another 
source  of  anxiety,  until  a  diligent  examination  of  the 
several  species  dispelled  it. 

As  it  was  a  most  interesting  hunt  which  I  instituted 
for  the  several  specimens  of  the  insects,  I  here  append 
the  record  of  it  for  what  it  is  worth.  My  object  in 
obtaining  these  specimens  was  to  determine  whether 
the  genus  Glossina  morsitans  of  the  naturalist,  or  the 
tsetse  (sometimes  called  setse)  of  Livingstone,  Vardon, 
Cumming,  and  Kirk,  said  to  be  deadly  to  horses,  was 
amongst  them.  I  wished  to  preserve  my  two  horses,  if 
possible ;  but  Dr.  Kirk  had,  with  all  the  enthusiasm 
and  dogmatism  of  a  hobbyist,  foretold  the  certain  death 
of  my  horses   from  the  tsetse  fly,  which,  he  said, 


88 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


abounded  in  great  numbers  in  the  country  west  of 
Bagamoyo.  Up  to  this  date  I  had  been  nearly  two 
months  in  East  Africa,  and  had  as  yet  seen  no  tsetse ; 
and  my  horses,  instead  of  becoming  emaciated — for 
such  is  one  of  the  symptoms  of  a  tsetse  bite — had  con- 
siderably  improved  in  condition.  There  were  three 
different  species  of  flies  which  sought  shelter  in  my 
tent,  which,  unitedly,  kept  up  a  continual  chorus  of 
sounds — one  performed  the  basso  profondo,  another  a 
tenor,  and  the  third  a  weak  contralto.  The  first 
emanated  from  a  voracious  and  fierce  fly,  an  inch  long, 
having  a  ventral  capacity  for  blood  quite  astonishing. 

The  terrible  fears  engendered  by  Dr.  Kirk's  asser- 
tion made  it  out  to  be  the  tsetse,  so  this  was  the  one 
chosen  for  the  first  inspection,  which  was  of  the  intensest. 
I  permitted  one  to  alight  on  my  flannel  pyjamas,  which 
I  wore  while  en  deshabille  in  camp.  No  sooner  had  he 
alighted  than  his  posterior  was  raised,  his  head  lowered, 
and  his  weapons,  consisting  of  four  hair-like  styles, 
unsheathed  from  the  proboscis-like  bag  which  concealed 
them,  and  immediately  I  felt  pain  like  that  caused  by 
a  dexterous  lancet-cut  or  the  probe  of  a  fine  needle.  I 
permitted  him  to  gorge  himself,  though  my  patience 
and  naturalistic  interest  were  sorely  tried.  I  saw  his 
abdominal  parts  distend  with  the  plentitude  ( f  the 
repast  until  it  had  swollen  to  three  times  its  former 
shrunken  girth,  when  he  flew  away  of  his  own  accord 
laden  with  blood.  On  rolling  up  my  flannel  pyjamas 
to  see  the  fountain  whence  the  fly  had  drawn  the  fluid, 
I  discovered  it  to  be  a  little  above  the  left  knee,  by  a 
crimson  bead  resting  over  the  incision.  After  wiping 
the  blood  the  wound  was  similar  to  that  caused  by  a 
deep  thrust  of  a  fine  needle,  but  all  pain  had  vanished 
with  the  departure  of  the  fly. 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USE  GUN  II  A.  Si) 


Having  caught  a  specimen  of  this  fly,  I  next  pro- 
ceeded to  institute  a  comparison  between  it  and  the 
tsetse,  as  described  by  Dr.  Livingstone  on  pp.  56-57, 
'  Missionary  Travels  and  Researches  in  South  Africa ' 
(Murray's  edition  of  1868).  The  points  of  disagree- 
ment are  many,  and  such  as  to  make  it  entirely  im- 
probable that  this  fly  is  the  true  tsetse,  though  my 
men  unanimously  stated  that  its  bite  was  fatal  to  horses 
as  well  as  to  donkeys.  A  descriptive  abstract  of  the 
tsetse  would  read  thus :  "  Not  much  larger  than  a 
common  house-fly,  nearly  of  the  same  brown  colour  as 
the  honey-bee.  After-part  of  the  body  has  yellow  bars 
across  it.  It  has  a  peculiar  buzz,  and  its  bite  is  death 
to  the  horse,  ox,  and  dog.  On  man  the  bite  has  no 
effect,  neither  has  it  on  wild  animals.  When  allowed 
to  feed  on  the  hand,  it  inserts  the  middle  prong  of  three 
portions  into  which  the  proboscis  divides,  it  then 
draws  the  prong  out  a  little  way,  and  it  assumes  a 
crimson  color  as  the  mandibles  come  into  brisk  opera- 
tion ;  a  slight  itching  irritation  follows  the  bite." 

The  fly  which  I  had  under  inspection  is  called 
mabunga  by  the  natives.  It  is  much  larger  than  the 
common  house-fly,  fully  a  third  larger  than  the  common 
honey-bee,  and  its  color  more  distinctly  marked ;  its 
head  is  black,  with  a  greenish  gloss  to  it ;  the  after- 
part  of  the  body  is  marked  by  a  white  line  running 
lengthwise  from  its  junction  with  the  trunk,  and  on 
each  side  of  this  white  line  are  two  other  lines,  one  of 
a  crimson  color,  the  other  of  a  light  brown.  As  for  its 
buzz,  there  is  no  peculiarity  in  it,  it  might  be  mistaken 
for  that  of  a  honey-bee.  When  caught  it  made 
desperate  efforts  to  get  away,  but  never  attempted  to 
bite.  This  fly,  along  with  a  score  of  others,  attacked 
my  grey  horse,  and  bit  it  so  sorely  in  the  legs  that  they 


DO 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


appeared  as  if  bathed  in  blood.  Hence,  I  might  have 
been  a  little  vengeful  if,  with  more  than  the  zeal  of  an 
entomologist,  I  caused  it  to  disclose  whatever  pecu- 
liarities its  biting  parts  possessed. 

In  order  to  bring  this  fly  as  life-like  as  possible 
before  my  readers,  I  may  compare  its  head  to  a  most 
tiny  miniature  of  an  elephant's,  because  it  has  a  black 
proboscis  and  a  pair  of  horny  antennae,  which  in  color 
and  curve  resemble  tusks.  The  black  proboscis,  how- 
ever, is  simply  a  hollow  sheath,  which  encloses,  when 
not  in  the  act  of  biting,  four  reddish  and  sharp  lancets. 
Under  the  microscope  these  four  lancets  differ  in  thick- 
ness, two  are  very  thick,  the  third  is  slender,  but  the 
fourth,  of  an  opal  color  and  almost  transparent,  is 
exceedingly  fine.  This  last  must  be  the  sucker  when 
the  fly  is  about  to  wound,  the  two  horny  antennae  are 
made  to  embrace  the  part,  the  lancets  are  unsheathed, 
and  on  the  instant  the  incision  is  performed.  This  I 
consider  to  be  the  African  "  horse-fly." 

The  second  fly,  which  sang  the  tenor  note,  more 
nearly  resembled  in  size  and  description  the  tsetse.  It 
was  exceedingly  nimble,  and  it  occupied  three  soldiers 
nearly  an  hour  to  capture  a  specimen  ;  and,  when  it  was 
finally  caught,  it  stung  most  ravenously  the  hand,  and 
never  ceased  its  efforts  to  attack  until  it  was  pinned 
through.  It  had  three  or  four  white  marks  across  the 
after-part  of  its  body ;  but  the  biting  parts  of  this  fly 
consisted  of  two  black  antennae  and  an  opal  colored 
style,  which  folded  away  under  the  neck.  When  about 
to  bite  this  style  was  shot  out  straight,  and  the  antennae 
embraced  it  closely.  After  death  the  fly  lost  its  dis- 
tinctive white  marks.  Only  one  of  this  species  did  we 
see  at  this  camp. 

The  third  fly,  called  "chufwa,"  pitched  a  weak  alto- 


Mabch,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEOUHEA.  91 

crescendo  note,  was  a  third  larger  than  the  house  fly,  and 
had  long  wings.  If  this  insect  sang  the  feeblest  note, 
it  certainly  did  the  most  work,  and  inflicted  the  most 
injury.  Horses  and  donkeys  streamed  with  blood,  and 
reared  and  kicked  through  the  pain.  So  determined 
was  it  not  to  be  driven  before  it  obtained  its  fill,  that 
it  was  easily  despatched;  but  this  dreadful  enemy  to 
cattle  constantly  increased  in  numbers.  The  three 
species  above  named  are,  according  to  natives,  fatal  to 
cattle ;  and  this  may  perhaps  be  the  reason  why  such  a 
vast  expanse  of  first-class  pasture  is  without  domestic 
cattle  of  any  kind,  a  few  goats  only  being  kept  by 
the  villagers.  This  fly  1  subsequently  found  to  be  the 
"  tsetse." 

On  the  second  morning,  instead  of  proceeding,  I 
deemed  it  more  prudent  to  await  the  fourth  caravan. 
Burton  experimented  sufficiently  for  me  on  the  pro- 
mised word  of  the  Banyans  of  Kaole  and  Zanzibar, 
and  had  to  wait  eleven  months  before  he  received  the 
promised  articles.  As  I  did  not  expect  to  be  much 
over  that  time  on  my  errand  altogether,  it  would  be 
ruin,  absolute  and  irremediable,  should  I  be  detained 
at  Unyanyembe  so  long  a  time  by  my  caravan. 
Pending  its  arrival,  I  sought  the  pleasures  of  the  chase. 
I  was  but  a  tyro  in  hunting,  I  confess,  though  I  had 
shot  a  little  on  the  plains  of  America  and  Persia,  yet 
I  considered  myself  a  fair  shot ;  and  on  game  ground, 
and  within  a  reasonable  proximity  to  game,  I  doubted 
not  but  I  could  bring  some  to  camp. 

After  a  march  of  a  mile  through  the  tall  grass  of  the 
open,  we  gained  the  glades  between  the  jungles.  Un- 
successful here,  after  ever  so  much  prying  into  fine 
hiding-places  and  lurking  corners,  I  struck  a  trail  well 
traversed  by  small  antelope  and  hartebeest,  which  we 
followed.    It  led  me  into  a  jungle,  and  down  a  water- 


92 


SOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


course  bisecting  it ;  but,  after  following  it  for  an  hour, 
I  lost  it,  and,  in  endeavouring  to  retrace  it,  lost  my 
way.  However,  my  pocket- compass  stood  me  in  good 
stead ;  and  by  it  I  steered  for  the  open  plain,  in  the 
centre  of  which  stood  the  camp.  But  it  was  terribly 
hard  work  —  this  of  plunging  through  an  African 
jungle,  ruinous  to  clothes,  and  trying  to  the  cuticle. 
In  order  to  travel  quickly,  I  had  donned  a  pair  of 
flannel  pyjamas,  and  my  feet  were  encased  in  canvas 
shoes.  As  might  be  expected,  before  I  had  gone  a  few 
paces  a  branch  of  the  acacia  korrida — only  one  of  a 
hundred  such  annoyances — caught  the  right  leg  of  my 
pyjamas  at  the  knee,  and  ripped  it  almost  clean  off ; 
succeeding  which  a  stumpy  kolquall  caught  me  by  the 
shoulder,  and  another  rip  was  the  inevitable  conse- 
quence. A  few  yards  farther  on,  a  prickly  aloetic 
plant  disfigured  by  a  wide  tear  the  other  leg  of  my 
pyjamas,  and  almost  immediately  I  tripped  against  a 
convolvulus  strong  as  ratline,  and  was  made  to  measure 
my  length  on  a  bed  of  thorns.  It  was  on  all  fours,  like 
a  hound  on  a  scent,  that  I  was  compelled  to  travel ;  my 
solar  topee  getting  the  worse  for  wear  every  minute  ; 
my  skin  getting  more  and  more  wounded  ;  my  clothes 
at  each  step  becoming  more  and  more  tattered.  Besides 
these  discomforts,  there  was  a  pungent,  acrid  plant, 
which,  apart  from  its  strong  odorous  emissions,  struck 
me  smartly  on  the  face,  leaving  a  burning  effect  similar 
to  cayenne  ;  and  the  atmosphere,  pent  in  by  the  density 
of  the  jungle,  was  hot  and  stifling,  and  the  perspiration 
transuded  through  every  pore,  making  my  flannel 
tatters  feel  as  if  I  had  been  through  a  shower.  When 
I  had  finally  regained  the  plain  and  could  breathe  free, 
I  mentally  vowed  that  the  penetralia  of  an  African 
jungle  should  not  be  visited  by  me  again,  save  under 
most  urgeirt  necessity. 


March,  1671.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  UsEGUHHA.  93 


Notwithstanding  the  ruthless  rents  in  my  clothes 
and  my  epidermal  wounds,  as  I  looked  over  the  grandly 
undulating  plain,  lovely  with  its  coat  of  green  verdure, 
with  its  boundaries  of  noble  woods,  heavy  with  vernal 
leafage,  and  regarded  the  pretty  bosky  islets  amid  its 
wide  expanse,  I  could  not  but  award  it  its  meed  of 
high  praise.  Daily  the  country  advanced  in  my  estima- 
tion, for  hitherto  I  felt  that  I  was  but  obeying  orders ; 
and  sickly  as  it  might  be,  I  was  in  duty  bound  to 
go  on ;  but,  for  fear  of  the  terrible  fever,  made  more 
terrible  by  the  feverish  perspective  created  in  my  ima- 
gination by  the  embitterment  of  Capt.  Burton's  book, 
I  vowed  I  would  not  step  one  foot  out  of  my  way. 
Shall  I  inform  you,  reader,  what  4  The  Lake  Regions 
of  Central  Africa,'  and  subsequently  the  reports  of 
European  merchants  of  Zanzibar,  caused  me  to  imagine 
the  interior  was  like  ?  It  was  that  of  an  immense 
swamp,  curtained  round  about  with  the  fever — 44  a 
species  of  Yellow  Jack,"  which  was  sure,  if  it  did  not 
kill  me  outright,  so  to  weaken  body  and  brain  as  to 
render  me  for  the  future  a  helpless  imbecile.  In  this 
swamp,  which  extended  over  two  hundred  miles  into 
the  interior,  sported  an  immense  number  of  hippopo- 
tami, crocodiles,  alligators,  lizards,  tortoises,  and  toads ; 
and  the  miasma  rising  from  this  vast  cataclysm  of  mud, 
corruption,  and  putrescence,  was  as  thick  and  sorely 
depressing  as  the  gloomy  and  suicidal  fog  of  London. 
Ever  in  my  mind  in  the  foreground  of  this  bitter 
picture  were  the  figures  of  poor  Burton  and  Speke, 
"  the  former  a  confirmed  invalid,  and  the  other  perma 
nently  affected"  in  the  brain  by  this  fever.  The  worm 
wood  and  fever  tone  of  Capt.  Burton's  book  I  regarded 
as  the  result  of  African  disease.  But  ever  since  my 
arrival  on  the  mainland,  day  by  day  the  pall-like 


94 


HOW  J  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


curtain  had  been  clearing  away,  and  the  cheerless 
perspective  was  brightening.  We  had  been  now  two 
months  on  the  East  African  soil,  and  not  one  of  my 
men  had  been  sick.  The  Europeans  had  gained  in 
flesh,  and  their  appetites  were  always  in  prime  order. 

The  second  and  third  day  passed  without  any  news 
of  Maganga.  Accordingly,  Shaw  and  Bombay  were 
sent  to  hurry  him  up  by  all  means.  On  the  fourth 
morning  Shaw  and  Bombay  returned,  followed  by  the 
jDrocrastinating  Maganga  and  his  laggard  people.  Ques- 
tions only  elicited  an  excuse  that  his  men  had  been 
too  sick,  and  he  had  feared  to  tax  their  strength  before 
they  were  quite  equal  to  stand  the  fatigue.  Moreover 
he  suggested  that  as  they  would  be  compelled  to  stay 
one  day  more  at  the  camp,  1  might  push  on  to  Kin- 
garu  and  camp  there,  until  his  arrival.  Acting  upon 
which  suggestion  I  broke  camp  and  started  for  Kin- 
garu,  distant  five  miles. 

On  this  march  the  land  was  more  broken,  and  the 
caravan  first  encountered  jungle,  which  gave  consider- 
able trouble  to  our  cart.  Pkolitiu  limestone  cropped  out 
in  boulders  and  sheets,  and  we  began  to  imagine  ourselves 
approaching  healthy  highlands,  and  as  if  to  give  con- 
firmation to  the  thought,  to  the  north  and  north-west 
loomed  the  purple  cones  of  Udoe,  and  topmost  of  all 
Dilima  Peak,  about  1,500  feet  in  height  above  the 
sea  level.  But  soon  after  si  raking  into  a  bowl-like 
valley,  green  with  tall  corn,  the  road  slightly  deviated 
from  north-west  to  west,  the  country  still  rolling  before 
us  in  wavy  undulations. 

In  one  of  the  depressions  between  these  lengthy  land- 
swells  stood  the  village  of  Kingaru,  with  surroundings 
significant  in  their  aspect  of  ague  and  fever.  Perhaps 
the  clouds  surcharged  with  rain,  and  the  overhanging 


March,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  95 


ridges  and  their  dense  forests  dulled  by  the  gloom,  made 
the  place  more  than  usually  disagreeable,  but  my  first 
impressions  of  the  sodden  hollow,  pent  in  by  those  dull 
woods  with  the  deep  gully  close  by  containing  pools 
of  stagnant  water,  were  by  no  means  agreeable. 

Before  we  could  arrange  our  camp  and  set  the  tents 
up,  down  poured  the  furious  harbinger  of  the  Masika 
season,  in  torrents  sufficient  to  damp  the  ardor  and 
new-born  love  for  East  Africa  I  had  lately  manifested. 
However,  despite  rain,  we  worked  on  until  our  camp 
was  finished  and  the  property  was  safely  stored  from 
weather  and  thieves,  and  we  could  regard  with  resigna- 
tion the  raindrops  beating  the  soil  into  mud  of  a  very 
tenacious  kind,  and  forming  lakelets  and  rivers  of  our 
camp-ground. 

Towards  night,  the  scene  having  reached  its  acme 
of  unpleasantness,  the  rain  ceased,  and  the  natives 
poured  into  camp  from  the  villages  in  the  woods  with 
their  vendibles.  Foremost  among  these,  as  if  in  duty 
bound,  came  the  village  sultan — lord,  chief,  or  head — 
bearing  three  measures  of  matama  and  half  a  measure 
of  rice  of  which  he  begged,  with  paternal  smiles,  my 
acceptance.  But  under  the  smiling  mask,  bleared  eyes, 
and  wrinkled  front  of  him  was  visible  the  soul  of 
trickery,  which  was  of  the  cunningest  kind.  Responding 
under  the  same  mask  adopted  by  this  knavish  elder, 
I  said,  "  The  chief  of  Kingaru  has  called  me  a  rich 
sultan.  If  I  am  a  rich  sultan  whv  comes  not  the  chief 
with  a  rich  present  to  me  that  he  might  get  a  rich 
return  ?"  Said  he,  with  another  leer  of  his  wrinkled 
visage,  "  Kingaru  is  poor,  there  is  no  matama  in  the 
village."  To  which  I  replied  that  since  there  was  no 
matama  in  the  village  I  would  pay  him  half  a  shukka, 
or  a  yard  of  cloth,  which  would  be  exactly  equivalent 


96 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  his  present ;  that  if  he  preferred  to  call  his  small 
basketful  a  present,  I  should  be  content  to  call  my  yard 
of  cloth  a  present.  With  which  logic  he  was  fain  to 
be  satisfied. 

April  1st. — To-day  the  Expedition  suffered  a  loss  in 
the  death  of  the  grey  Arab  horse  presented  by  Syed 
Burghash,  Sultan  of  Zanzibar.  The  night  previous 
I  had  noticed  that  the  horse  was  suffering.  Bearing  in 
mind  what  Dr.  Kirk,  acting  British  Consul  at  Zanzibar, 
had  so  frequently  asserted,  namely that  no  horse* 
could  live  in  the  interior  of  Africa  because  of  the  tsetse, 
I  had  him  opened,  and  the  stomach,  which  I  believed 
to  be  diseased,  examined.  Besides  much  undigested 
matama  and  grass  there  were  found  twenty-five  short, 
thick,  white  worms,  sticking  like  leeches  into  the 
coatiug  of  the  stomach,  while  the  intestines  were  almost 
alive  with  the  numbers  of  long  white  worms.  I  was 
satisfied  that  neither  man  nor  beast  could  long  exist 
with  such  a  mass  of  corrupting  life  within  him. 

In  order  that  the  dead  carcase  might  not  taint  the 
valley,  I  had  it  buried  deep  in  the  ground,  about  a  score 
of  yards  from  the  encampment.  From  such  a  slight 
cause  ensued  a  tremendous  uproar  from  Kingaru — 
chief  of  the  village — who,  with  his  brother-chiefs  of 
neighbouring  villages,  numbering  in  the  aggregate  two 
dozen  wattled  huts,  had  taken  counsel  upon  the  best 
means  of  mulcting  the  Musungu  of  a  full  doti  or  two 
of  Merikani,  and  finally  had  arrived  at  the  conviction 
that  the  act  of  burying  a  dead  horse  in  their  soil  with- 
out "  By  your  leave,  sir,"  was  a  grievous  and  fineable 
fault.  Affecting  great  indignation  at  the  unpardonable 
omission,  he,  Kingaru,  concluded  to  send  to  the  Musungu 
four  of  his  young  men  to  say  to  him  that  "  since  you 
have  buried  your  horse  in  my  ground,  it  is  well ;  let 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  97 


him  remain  there,  but  you  must  pay  me  two  doti  of 
Merikani."  For  reply  the  messengers  were  told  to  say 
to  the  chief  that  I  would  prefer  talking  the  matter  over 
with  himself  face  to  face,  if  he  would  condescend  to  visit 
me  in  my  tent  once  again.  As  the  village  was  but  a 
stone's  throw  from  our  encampment,  before  many 
minutes  had  elapsed  the  wrinkled  elder  made  his 
appearance  at  the  door  of  my  tent  with  about  half  the 
village  behind  him. 

The  following  dialogue  which  took  place  will  serve 
to  illustrate  the  tempers  of  the  people  with  whom  I  was 
about  to  have  a  year's  trading  intercourse  : — 

White  Man. — "  Are  you  the  great  chief  of  Kingaru?" 

Kingaru. — "  Huh-uh.  Yes." 

W.  M-"  The  great,  great  chief?" 

Kingaru. — "  Huh-uh.  Yes." 

W.  M. — "  How  many  soldiers  have  you  ?" 

Kingaru. — "  Why  ?" 

W.  M. — u  How  many  fighting  men  have  you  ?" 
Kingaru. — "  None." 

W.  M. — 66  Oh !  I  thought  you  might  have  a  thou- 
sand men  with  you,  by  your  going  to  fine  a  strong 
white  man,  who  has  plenty  of  guns  and  soldiers,  two 
doti  for  burying  a  dead  horse.'' 

Kingaru  (rather  perplexed). — "  No ;  I  have  na 
soldiers.    I  have  only  a  few  young  men." 

W.  M. — "  Why  do  you  come  and  make  trouble,, 
then  ?" 

Kingaru. — "  It  was  not  I ;  it  was  my  brothers  who 
said  to  me,  '  Come  here,  come  here,  Kingaru,  see 
what  the  white  man  has  done  !  Has  he  not  taken 
possession  of  your  soil,  in  that  he  has  put  his  horse  into 
your  ground  without  your  permission  ?  Come,  go  to 
him  and  see  by  what  right.'     Therefore  have  I  come 

H 


98 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  ask  you,  who  gave  you  permission  to  use  my  soil  for 
a  burying-ground  ?" 

W.  M.  "  I  want  no  man's  permission  to  do  what  is 
right.  My  horse  died;  had  I  left  him  to  fester  and 
stink  in  your  valley,  sickness  would  visit  your  village, 
your  water  would  become  unwholesome,  and  caravans 
would  not  stop  here  for  trade;  for  they  would  say,  'This 
is  an  unlucky  spot,  let  us  go  away.'  But  enough  said ; 
I  understand  you  to  say  that  you  do  not  want  him 
buried  in  your  ground  ;  the  error  I  have  fallen  into  is 
easily  put  right.  This  minute  my  soldiers  shall  dig 
him  out  again,  and  cover  up  the  soil  as  it  was  before  ; 
and  the  horse  shall  be  left  where  he  died."  (Then 
shouting  to  Bombay.)  "  Ho  !  Bombay,  take  soldiers 
with  jembes  to  dig  my  horse  out  of  the  ground,  drag 
him  to  where  he  died,  and  make  everything  ready  for  a 
march  to-morrow  morning." 

Kingaru,  his  voice  considerably  higher,  and  his  head 
moving  to  and  fro  with  emotion,  cries  out,  "  Akuna, 
akuna,  Bana  !" — "  No,  no,  master !  Let  not  the  white 
man  get  angry.  The  horse  is  dead,  and  now  lies 
buried  ;  let  him  remain  so,  since  he  is  already  there, 
and  let  us  be  friends  again." 

The  Sheikh  of  Kingaru  being  thus  brought  to  his 
senses,  we  bid  each  other  the  friendly  "  quahary,"  and 
I  was  left  alone  to  ruminate  over  my  loss.  Barely 
half  an  hour  had  elapsed,  it  was  9  p.m.,  the  camp  was 
in  a  semi-doze,  when  I  heard  deep  groans  issuing  from 
one  of  the  animals.  Upon  inquiry  as  to  what  animal 
was  suffering,  I  was  surprised  to  hear  that  it  was  my 
bay  horse.  With  a  bull's-eye  lantern,  I  visited  him, 
and  perceived  that  the  pain  was  located  in  the  stomach, 
but  whether  it  was  from  some  poisonous  plant  he  had 
eaten  while  out  grazing,  or  from  some  equine  disease. 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  99 

I  did  not  know.  He  discharged  copious  quantities  of 
loose  matter,  but  there  was  nothing  peculiar  in  its 
color.  The  pain  was  evidently  very  great,  for  the 
groans  were  truly  piteous,  and  his  struggles  very 
violent.  I  was  up  all  night,  hoping  that  it  was  but  a 
temporary  effect  of  some  strange  and  noxious  plant ; 
but  at  6  o'clock  the  next  morning,  after  a  short  period 
of  great  agony,  he  also  died  ;  exactly  fifteen  hours 
after  his  companion.  When  the  stomach  was  opened, 
it  was  found  that  death  was  caused  by  the  internal 
rupture  of  a  large  cancer,  which  had  affected  the  larger 
half  of  the  coating  of  his  stomach,  and  had  extended  an 
inch  or  two  up  the  larynx.  The  contents  of  the 
stomach  and  intestines  were  deluged  with  the  yellow 
viscous  efflux  from  the  cancer. 

I  was  thus  deprived  of  both  my  horses,  and  that 
within  the  short  space  of  fifteen  hours.  With  my  limited 
knowledge  of  veterinary  science,  however  strengthened 
by  the  actual  and  positive  proofs  obtained  by  the 
dissection  of  the  two  stomachs,  I  can  scarcely  dare  con- 
tradict the  assertion  of  Dr.  Kirk,  and  state  that  horses 
can  live  to  reach  Unyanyembe,  or  that  they  can  travel 
with  ease  through  this  part  of  East  Africa.  But  should 
I  have  occasion  at  some  future  day  I  should  not  hesitate 
to  take  four  horses  with  me,  though  I  should  certainly 
endeavour  to  ascertain  previous  to  purchase  whether 
they  were  perfectly  sound  and  healthy,  and  to  those 
travellers  who  cherish  a  good  horse  I  would  say,  "  Try 
one,"  and  be  not  discouraged  by  my  unfortunate 
experiences. 

The  1st,  2nd,  and  3rd  of  April  passed,  and  nothing 
had  we  heard  or  seen  of  the  ever-lagging  fourth  caravan 
In  the  meanwhile  the  list  of  casualties  was  being  aug- 
mented.   Besides  the  loss  of  this  precious  time,  through 

h  2 


100 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  perverseness  of  the  chief  of  the  other  caravan,  and  the 
loss  of  my  two  horses,  a  pagazi  carrying  boat-fixtures 
improved  the  opportunity,  and  deserted.  My  interpreter, 
Selim,  was  struck  down  with  a  severe  attack  of  ague  and 
fever,  and  was  soon  after  followed  by  the  cook,  then 
by  the  assistant  cook  and  tailor,  Abdul  Kader.  Finally, 
before  the  third  day  was  over,  Bombay  had  rheumatism, 
Uledi  (Grant's  old  valet)  had  a  swollen  throat,  Zaidi 
had  the  flux,  Kingaru  had  the  Mukunguru ;  Khamisi,  a 
pagazi,  suffered  from  a  weakness  of  the  loins  ;  Farjalla 
had  a  bilious  fever ;  and  before  night  closed  Makoviga 
had  diarrhoea.  My  meditated  rush  towards  U nyanyembe, 
and  rapid  transit  through  the  dread  maritime  region, 
seemed  destined  to  end  somewhat  similarly  to  the  rush 
upon  Magdala  which  Dr.  Austin,  of  the  London 
"  Times,"  so  particularly  urged  upon  Sir  Robert  Napier 
in  Abyssinia.  Out  of  a  force  of  twenty -five  men  one  had 
deserted,  and  ten  were  on  the  sick-list,  and  the  presenti- 
ment that  the  ill-looking  neighbourhood  of  Kingaru 
would  prove  calamitous  to  me,  was  verified. 

On  the  4th  April,  Maganga  and  his  people  appeared, 
after  being  heralded  by  musketry-shots  and  horn- 
blowing,  the  usual  signs  of  an  approaching  caravan  in 
this  land.  His  sick  men  were  considerably  improved, 
but  they  required  one  more  day  of  rest  at  Kingaru. 
In  the  afternoon  he  came  to  lay  siege  to  my  generosity, 
by  giving  details  of  Soor  Hadji  Palloo's  heartless 
cheats  upon  him ;  but  I  informed  him,  that  since  I  had 
left  Bagamoyo,  I  could  no  longer  be  generous ;  we  were 
now  in  a  land  where  cloth  was  at  a  high  premium  ;  that 
I  had  no  more  cloth  than  I  should  need  to  furnish  food 
for  myself  and  men ;  that  he  and  his  caravan  had  cost 
me  more  money  and  trouble  than  any  three  caravans  I 
had,  as  indeed  was  the  case.    With  this  counter-state- 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWEKE,  ETC,  TO  USEGUHHA.  101 


ment  lie  was  obliged  to  be  content.  But  I  again  solved 
his  pecuniary  doubts  by  promising  that,  if  he  hurried 
his  caravan  on  to  Unyanyembe,  he  should  have  no 
cause  of  complaint. 

The  5th  of  April  saw  the  fourth  caravan  vanish  for 
once  in  our  front,  with  a  fair  promise  that,  however 
fast  we  should  follow,  we  should  not  see  them  the 
hither  side  of  Sinbamwenni. 

The  following  morning,  in  order  to  rouse  my  people 
from  the  sickened  torpitude  they  had  lapsed  into,  I  beat 
an  exhilarating  alarum  on  a  tin  pan  with  an  iron  ladle, 
intimating  that  a  sofari  was  about  to  be  undertaken. 
This  had  a  very  good  effect,  judging  from  the  extra- 
ordinary alacrity  wTith  which  it  was  responded  to. 
Before  the  sun  rose  wre  started.  The  Kingaru  villagers 
were  out  with  the  velocity  of  hawks  for  any  rags  or 
refuse  left  behind  us. 

The  long  march  to  Imbiki,  fifteen  miles,  proved  that 
our  protracted  stay  at  Kingaru  had  completely  demo- 
ralized my  soldiers  and  pagazis.  Only  a  few  of  them 
had  strength  enough  to  reach  Imbiki  before  night.  The 
others,  attending  the  laden  donkeys,  put  in  an  appear- 
ance next  morning,  in  a  lamentable  state  of  mind  and 
oody.  Khamisi — the  pagazi  with  the  weak  loins — had 
deserted,  taking  with  him  two  goats,  the  property  tent, 
and  the  whole  of  Uledi's  personal  wealth,  consisting 
of  his  visiting  dish-dasheh — a  long  shirt  of  the 
Arabic  pattern,  10  lbs.  of  beads,  and  a  few  fine  cloths, 
which  Uledi,  in  a  generous  fit,  had  entrusted  to  him, 
while  he  carried  the  pagazi's  load,  70  lbs.  of  Bubu  beads. 
This  defalcation  was  not  to  be  overlooked,  nor  should 
Khamisi  be  permitted  to  return  without  an  effort  to 
apprehend  him.  Accordingly  Uledi  and  Ferajjji  were 
despatched  in  pursuit  while  we  rested  at  Imbiki,  in 


102 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


oider  to  give  the  dilapidated  soldiers  and  animals  time 
to  recruit. 

On  the  8th  we  continued  our  journey,  and  arrived  at 
Msuwa.  This  march  will  be  remembered  by  our  caravan 
as  the  most  fatiguing  of  all,  though  the  distance  was  but 
ten  miles.  It  was  one  continuous  jungle,  except  three 
interjacent  glades  of  narrow  limits,  which  gave  us  three 
breathing  pauses  in  the  dire  task  of  jungle  travelling. 
The  odour  emitted  from  its  fell  plants  was  so  rank,  so 
pungently  acrid,  and  the  miasma  from  its  decayed  vege- 
tation so  dense,  that  I  expected  every  moment  to  see  my- 
self and  men  drop  down  in  paroxysms  of  acute  fever. 
Happily  this  evil  was  not  added  to  that  of  loading  and 
unloading  the  frequently  falling  packs.  Seven  soldiers 
to  attend  seventeen  laden  donkeys  were  entirely  too 
small  a  number  while  passing  through  a  jungle  ;  for 
while  the  path  is  but  a  foot  wide,  with  a  wall  of  thorny 
plants  and  creepers  bristling  on  each  side,  and  pro- 
jecting branches  darting  across  it,  with  knots  of  spikey 
twigs  stiff  as  spike-nails,  ready  to  catch  and  hold  any- 
thing above  four  feet  in  height,  it  is  but  reasonable  to 
suppose  that  donkeys  standing  four  feet  high,  with 
loads  measuring  across  from  bale  to  bale  four  feet,  would 
come  to  grief.  This  grief  was  of  frequent  recurrence 
here,  causing  us  to  pause  every  few  minutes  for  re- 
arrangements. So  often  had  this  task  to  be  performed, 
that  the  men  got  perfectly  discouraged,  and  had  to  be 
spoken  to  sharply  before  they  set  to  work.  By  the  time 
I  reached  Msuwa  there  was  nobody  with  me  and  the 
ten  donkeys  I  drove,  but  Mabruk  the  Little,  who, 
though  generally  stolid,  stood  to  his  work  like  a 
man.  Bombay  and  Uledi  were  far  behind,  with  the 
most  jaded  donkeys.  Shaw  was  in  charge  of  the  cart, 
and  his  experiences  were  most  bitter,  as  he  informed 


April,  1871.]    THROUOB  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  UtiEGUHHA.  108 


me  he  had  expended  a  whole  vocabulary  of  stormy 
abuse  known  to  sailors,  and  a  new  one  which  he  had 
invented  extempore.  He  did  not  arrive  until  two  o'clock 
next  morning,  and  was  completely  worn  out.  Truly  I 
doubt  if  the  most  pious  divine,  in  travelling  through 
that  long  jungle  under  such  circumstances,  with  such 
oft-recurring  annoyances  and  Sisyphean  labor,  could 
have  avoided  cursing  his  folly  for  coming  hither.  How 
in  this  difficult  march  I  regretted  my  former  easy 
circumstances — the  soft  repose  of  my  too  easy  chair  in 
Madrid  !  The  man  who  first  said  that  travelling  was 
a  fool's  paradise  must  certainly  have  been  inspired  by 
the  experiences  of  a  similar  day  to  this. 

Another  halt  was  fixed  at  Msuwa  that  we  and  our 
animals  might  recuperate.  The  chief  of  the  village,  a 
white  man  in  everything  but  color,  sent  me  and  mine 
the  fattest  broad-tailed  sheep  of  his  flock,  with  five 
measures  of  matama  grain.  The  mutton  was  excellent, 
unapproachable.  For  his  timely  and  needful  present 
I  gave  him  two  doti,  and  amused  him  with  an  exhibi- 
tion of  the  wonderful  mechanism  of  the  Winchester 
rifle,  and  my  breechloading  revolvers. 

He  and  his  people  were  intelligent  enough  to  com- 
prehend the  utility  of  these  weapons  at  an  emergency, 
and  illustrated  in  expressive  pantomime  the  powers 
they  possessed  against  numbers  of  people  armed  only 
with  spears  and  bows,  by  extending  their  arms  with 
an  imaginary  gun  and  describing  a  clear  circle. 
"  Verily,"  said  they,  "  the  Wasungu  are  far  wiser 
than  the  Washensi.  What  heads  they  have!  What 
wonderful  things  they  make  !  Look  at  their  tents, 
their  guns,  their  time-pieces,  their  clothes,  and  that- 
little  rolling  thing  (the  cart)  which  carries  more  than 
five  men, — que  !" 


104 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


On  the  10th,  recovered  from  the  excessive  strain  of 
the  last  march,  my  caravan  marched  out  of  Msuwa, 
accompanied  by  the  hospitable  villagers  as  far  as  their 
stake  defence,  receiving  their  unanimous  "  quaharys." 
Outside  the  village  the  march  promised  to  be  less 
arduous  than  between  Imbiki  and  Msuwa.  After 
crossing  a  beautiful  little  plain  intersected  by  a  dry 
gully  or  mtoni,  the  route  led  by  a  few  cultivated 
fields,  where  the  tillers  greeted  us  with  one  grand 
unwinking  stare,  as  if  fascinated. 

Soon  after  we  met  one  of  those  sights  common  in 
this  part  of  the  world,  to  wit,  a  chained  slave-gang, 
bound  east.  The  slaves  did  not  appear  to  be  in  any 
way  down-hearted  ;  on  the  contrary,  they  seemed  imbued 
with  the  philosophic  jollity  of  the  jolly  servant  of 
Martin  Chuzzlewit.  Were  it  not  for  their  chains,  it 
would  have  been  difficult  to  discover  master  from 
slave  ;  the  physiognomic  traits  were  alike — the  mild 
benignity  with  which  we  were  regarded  was  equally 
visible  on  all  faces.  The  chains  were  ponderous,  they 
might  have  held  elephants  captive ;  but  as  the  slaves 
carried  nothing  but  themselves,  their  weight  could  not 
have  been  insupportable. 

The  jungle  was  scant  on  this  march,  and  though  in 
some  places  the  packs  met  with  accidents,  they  were 
not  such  as  seriously  to  retard  progress.  By  10  a.m. 
we  were  in  camp  in  the  midst  of  an  imposing  view  of 
green  sward  and  forest  domed  by  a  cloudless  sky.  We 
had  again  pitched  our  camp  in  the  wilderness,  and,  as 
is  the  custom  of  caravans,  fired  two  shots  to  warn 
any  Washensi  having  grain  to  sell,  that  we  were  willing 
to  trade. 

Our  next  halting-place  was  Kisemo,  distant  but  eleven 
miles  from  Msuwa,  a  village  situated  in  a  populous  dis- 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  L05 


fcrict,  having  in  its  vicinity  no  less  than  five  other 
villages,  each  fortified  by  stakes  and  thorny  abattis, 
with  as  much  fierce  independence  as  if  their  petty  lords 
were  so  many  Percys  and  Douglases.  Each  topped  a 
ridge,  or  a  low  hummock,  with  an  assumption  of  defiance 
of  the  cock-on-its-own-dunghill  type.  Between  these 
humble  eminences  and  low  ridges  of  land,  wind  narrow 
vales  which  are  favored  with  the  cultivation  of  matama 
and  Indian  corn.  Behind  the  village  flows  the  Unger- 
engeri  River,  an  impetuous  Tramontana  during  the 
Masika  season,  capable  of  overflowing  its  steep  banks, 
but  in  the  dry  season  it  subsides  into  its  proper  status, 
which  is  that  of  a  small  stream  of  very  clear  sweet 
water.  Its  course  from  Kisemo  is  south-west,  then 
easterly  ;  it  is  the  main  feeder  of  the  Kingani  River. 

The  belles  of  Kisemo,  of  gigantic  posterioral  propor- 
tions, are  noted  for  their  vanity  in  brass  wire,  which  is 
wound  in  spiral  rings  round  their  wrists  and  ancles, 
and  the  varieties  of  style  which  their  hispid  heads 
exhibit ;  while  their  poor  lords,  obliged  to  be  contented 
with  dingy  torn  clouts  and  split  ears,  show  what  wide 
sway  Asmodeus  holds  over  this  terrestrial  sphere — 
for  it  must  have  been  an  unhappy  time  when  the 
hard-besieged  husbands  finally  gave  way  before  their 
hotly-pressing  spouses.  Besides  these  brassy  ornaments 
on  their  extremities,  and  the  various  hair-dressing  styles, 
the  women  of  Kisemo  frequently  wear  lengthy  necklaces 
which  run  in  rivers  of  colors  down  their  black  bodies. 

But  a  more  comical  picture  is  seldom  presented  than 
that  of  one  of  these  highly-dressed  females  with  the 
magnificent  development  already  noted,  engaged  in  the 
homely  and  necessary  task  of  grinding  corn  for  herself 
and  family.  The  grinding  apparatus  consists  of  two 
portions  :  one,  a  thick  pole  of  hard  wood  about  six  feet 


106 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


long,  answering  for  a  pestle ;  the  other,  a  capacious 
wooden  mortar,  three  feet  in  height.  Swaying  with 
the  pestle  as  it  rises  and  falls  the  pectoral  and  pos- 
terioral  exuberances  alternate  to  her  strokes  in  the  very 


WOMAN  GRINDING  CORN. 


drollest  rhythm  ;  so  strongly  marked  that  I  feared  for 
the  walls  of  the  hut  before  which  I  saw  the  corn- 
pounding  going  on. 

While  engaged  in  setting  his  tent,  Shaw  was  obliged 
to  move  a  small  flat  stone,  to  drive  a  peg  into  the 
ground.  The  village  chief,  who  saw  him  do  it,  rushed 
up  in  a  breathless  fashion,  and  replaced  the  stone 
instantly,  then  stood  on  it  in  an  impressive  manner, 
indicative  of  the  great  importance  attached  to  that 
stone  and  location.  Bombay  seeing  Shaw  standing  in 
silent  wonder  at  the  act,  volunteered  to  ask  the  chief 
what  was  the  matter.  The  Sheikh  solemnly  answered, 
with  a  finger  pointing  downward,  "  Uganda  !"  Where- 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUI1HA.  107 


upon  I  implored  him  to  let  me  see  what  was  under  the 
stone.  With  a  graciousness  quite  affecting  he  complied. 
My  curiosity  was  gratified  with  the  sight  of  a  small 
whittled  stick,  which  pinned  fast  to  the  ground  an 
insect,  the  cause  of  a  miscarriage  to  a  young  female 
of  the  village. 

During  the  afternoon,  Uledi  and  Ferajji,  who  had 
been  despatched  after  the  truant  Khamisi,  returned  with 
him  and  all  the  missing  articles.  Khamisi,  soon  after 
leaving  the  road  and  plunging  into  the  jungle,  where 
he  was  mentally  triumphing  in  his  booty,  was  met  by 
some  of  the  plundering  Washensi,  who  are  always  on 
the  qui  vive  for  stragglers,  and  unceremoniously  taken 
to  their  village  in  the  woods,  and  bound  to  a  tree 
preparatory  to  being  killed.  Khamisi  said  that  he 
asked  them  why  they  tied  him  up,  to  which  they 
answered,  that  they  were  about  to  kill  him,  because  he 
was  a  Mgwana,  whom  they  were  accustomed  to  kill  as 
soon  as  they  were  caught.  But  Uledi  and  Ferajji  shortly 
after  coming  upon  the  scene,  both  well  armed,  put  an 
end  to  the  debates  upon  Khamisi's  fate,  by  claiming 
him  as  an  absconding  pagazi  from  the  Musungu's  camp, 
as  well  as  all  the  articles  he  possessed  at  the  time  of 
capture.  The  robbers  did  not  dispute  the  claim  for  the 
pagazi,  goats,  tent,  or  any  other  valuable  found  with 
him,  but  intimated  that  they  deserved  a  reward  for 
apprehending  him.  The  demand  being  considered  just, 
a  reward  to  the  extent  of  two  doti  and  a  fundo  or  ten 
necklaces  of  beads  was  given. 

Khamisi,  for  his  desertion  and  attempted  robbery, 
could  not  be  pardoned  without  first  suffering  punish- 
ment. He  had  asked  at  Bagamoyo,  before  enlisting  in 
my  service,  an  advance  of  $5  in  money,  and  had 
received  it ;  and  a  load  of  Bubu  beads,  no  heavier 


106 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


than  a  pagazfs  load,  had  been  given  him  to  carry  ;  he 
had,  therefore,  no  excuse  for  desertion.  Lest  I  should 
overstep  prudence,  however,  in  punishing  him,  I  con- 
vened a  court  of  eight  pagazis  and  four  soldiers  to  sit  in 
iudgment,  and  asked  them  to  give  me  their  decision  as 
to  what  should  be  done.  Their  unanimous  verdict  was 
that  he  was  guilty  of  a  crime  almost  unknown  among 
the  Wanyamwezi  pagazis,  and  as  it  was  likely  to  give 
bad  repute  to  the  Wanyamwezi  carriers,  they  therefore 
sentenced  him  to  be  flogged  with  the  "  Great  Master's  " 
donkey  whip.  I  then  ordered  him  to  be  bound,  and 
considering  that  by  his  act  the  pagazis  had  suffered  in 
name,  the  soldiers,  in  the  master's  estimation,  as  efficient 
guards,  Shaw  in  being  reprimanded  by  me  for  not 
looking  better  after  the  stragglers,  I  ordered  that  each 
of  the  pagazis  and  soldiers  and  Shaw  should  punish 
him  with  one  blow  each,  which  was  accordingly  done, 
to  poor  Khamisi's  crying  sorrow. 

Before  night  arrived  a  small  caravan  of  Wanguana, 
who  brought  with  them  a  long  letter  from  the  kind- 
hearted  American  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  as  well  as  a  file 
of  late  "  Heralds,"  latest  date  of  which  was  February  4. 
Among  other  gratifying  intelligence  found  in  them 
concerning  the  doings  of  Congress  and  the  New  York 
Legislature,  and  the  revelations  of  startling  crimes  in 
America,  was  an  account  of  President  Grant's  second 
levee,  in  which  Jenkins  described  with  laboured  ver- 
bosity the  toilets  of  the  ladies  who  attended  this  notable 
reception ;  how  a  lavender  ostrich  plume  waved  among 

the  lovely  grey  curls  of  Mrs.  \   how  diamonds 

finished  the  magnificent  toilet  of  Mrs.  ,  that  lady 

who  presented  such  an  imposing  appearance ;  how 

Mrs.   had  an  overskirt  with  ruchings  of  crimson 

satin ;  how  Mrs.    radiated  a  blaze  of  light  from 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEOUHHA.  109 


her  diamonds,  as  she  moved  along  in  royal  purple 
satin ;  and  how  the  President,  with  the  deep  manly 
voice  and  the  pair  of  searching  grey  eyes,  was  sacri- 
ficing himself  for  the  sovereign  people  on  this  occasion 
of  his  second  levee ;  and  much  else  of  the  same 
adulatory  tenor. 

Looking  up  from  this  refreshing  reading,  I  beheld 
my  tent  door  crowded  with  the  dark-skinned  bodies  of 
Kisemo's  daughters,  who  had  become  lost  in  vain  en- 
deavours to  penetrate  the  mystery  of  those  long  sheets 
of  paper  over  which  I  had  been  bending  so  long.  So 
sudden  and  vast  was  the  contrast  between  what  my  friend 
Jenkins  had  been  describing,  and  this  most  real  sight 
visible  to  my  naked  eyes,  that  it  required  a  strong  effort 
of  mind  and  memory  to  recall  what  such  grandly-dressed 
ladies  were  like,  to  decide  where  lay  the  difference 
between  a  "  blonde  beauty  with  a  mass  of  glittering, 
golden  hair,  with  eyes  which  vied  with  the  lustre  of 
her  diamonds,"  and  one  of  these  plump  black  girls  of 
twelve  or  thirteen,  ripening  into  womanhood,  with  a 
cock's-comb  of  woolly  hair  on  the  top  of  her  head, 
with  the  redundant  luxuriance  behind  veiled  but  by  two 
yards  of  old  sheeting,  with  3  lbs.  of  brass  wire  ornament 
on  each  limb,  and  streams  of  beads  round  her  neck  ; 
one  out  of  the  many  who  were  attending  my  levee  in 
the  natural  glory  and  beauty  of  nakedness.  But  indeed 
and  indeed  there  is  a  vast  difference  between  my  court 
and  that  of  the  President,  which  has  such  an  able 
J  enkins  for  its  reporter  ! 

On  the  12th  the  caravan  reached  Mussoudi,  on  the 
Ungerengeri  river.  Happily  for  our  patient  donkeys 
this  march  was  free  from  all  the  annoying  troubles  of 
the  jungle.  Happily  for  ourselves  also,  for  we  had  no 
more  the  care  of  the  packs  and  the  anxiety  about 


110 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


arriving  at  camp  before  night.  The  packs  once  put 
firmly  on  the  backs  of  our  good  donkeys,  they  marched 
into  camp — the  road  being  excellent — without  a  single 
displacement  or  cause  for  one  impatient  word.  If 
the  road  to  Unyanyembe  were  all  like  this  I  should 
consider  it  as  comfortable  as  crossing  over  to  Staten 
Island  for  a  Sunday  holiday,  or  riding  in  the  horse- 
cars  to  Central  Park.  Take  away  the  gravelled  paths, 
the  lakes  and  ponds,  the  museums  within,  the  trellised 
arbors,  the  kiosk,  the  uniformed  policemen  and  well- 
dressed  visitors, — in  short,  all  particulars  and  evidences 
of  the  presence  of  ripe  civilization,  and  Central  Park 
thus  denuded,  with  only  its  refreshing  lawns,  gentle 
hollows,  and  grove-clad  ridges,  would  present,  to  those 
who  could  imagine  the  New  York  park  in  this  state,  a 
not  unfaithful  image  of  the  country  which  opened 
before  us  soon  after  leaving  Kisemo.  This  beautiful 
prospect,  glorious  in  its  wild  nature,  fragrant  with  its 
numerous  flowers  and  variety  of  sweetly-smelling 
shrubs,  among  which  I  recognised  the  wild  sage,  the 
indigo  plant,  &c,  terminated  at  the  foot  of  Kira  Peak 
and  sister  cones,  which  mark  the  boundaries  between 
Udoe  and  Ukami,  yet  distant  twenty  miles.  Those 
distant  mountains  formed  a  not  unfit  background  to 
this  magnificent  picture  of  open  plain,  forest  patches, 
and  sloping  lawns — there  was  enough  of  picturesque- 
ness  and  sublimity  in  the  blue  mountains  to  render  it 
one  complete  whole. 

When  drawing  near  the  valley  of  Ungerengeri, 
granite  knobs  and  protuberances  of  dazzling  quartz 
showed  their  heads  above  the  reddish  soil.  Descending 
the  ridge  where  these  rocks  were  prominent,  we  found 
ourselves  in  the  sable  loam  deposit  of  the  Ungerengeri, 
and  in  the  midst  of  teeming  fields  of  sugar-cane  and 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUI1HA.  113 


matama,  Indian  corn,  muhogo,  and  gardens  of  curry, 
egg,  and  cucumber  plants.  On  the  banks  of  the  Un- 
gerengeri  flourished  the  banana,  and  overtopping  it  by 
seventy  feet  and  more  shot  up  the  stately  mparamusi, 
the  rival  in  beauty  of  the  Persian  chenar  and  Abyssinian 
plane.  Its  trunk  is  straight  and  comely  enough  for 
the  mainmast  of  a  first-class  frigate,  while  its  ex- 
panding crown  of  leafage  is  distinguished  from  all 
others  by  its  density  and  vivid  greenness.  There  were 
a  score  of  varieties  of  the  larger  kind  of  trees  whose 
far-extending  branches  embraced  across  the  narrow  but 
swift  river.  The  depressions  of  the  valley  and  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  river  were  choked 
with  young  forests  of  tiger-grass  and  stiff  reeds. 

Mussoudi  is  situated  on  a  higher  elevation  than  the 
average  level  of  the  village,  and  consequently  looks 
down  upon  its  neighbours,  which  number  a  hundred 
and  more.  It  is  the  western  extremity  of  Ukwere.  On 
the  western  bank  of  the  Ungerengeri  the  territory  of 
the  Wakami  commences.  We  had  to  halt  one  day  at 
Mussoudi  because  the  poverty  of  the  people  prevented 
us  from  procuring  the  needful  amount  of  grain.  The 
cause  of  this  scantiness  in  such  a  fertile  and  populous 
valley  was,  that  the  numerous  caravans  which  had 
preceded  us  had  drawn  heavily  for  their  stores  for  the 
up-marches. 

On  the  14th  we  crossed  the  Ungerengeri,  which  here 
flows  southerly  to  the  southern  extremity  of  the  valley, 
where  it  bends  easterly  as  far  as  Kisemo.  After  crossing 
the  river  here,  fordable  at  all  times  and  only  twenty 
yards  in  breadth,  we  had  another  mile  of  the  valley 
with  its  excessiyly  moist  soil  and  rank  growth  of  grass. 
It  then  ascended  into  a  higher  elevation,  and  led  through 
a  forest  of  mparamusi,  tamarind,  tamarisk,  acacia,  and 


112 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  blooming  mimosa.  This  ascent  was  continued  fin 
two  hours,  when  we  stood  upon  the  spine  of  the  largest 
ridge,  where  we  could  obtain  free  views  of  the  wooded 
plain  below  and  the  distant  ridges  of  Kisemo  which  we 
had  but  lately  left.  A  descent  of  a  few  hundred  feet 
terminated  in  a  deep  but  dry  mtoni  with  a  sandy  bed, 
on  the  other  side  of  which  we  had  to  regain  the  eleva- 
tion we  had  lost,  and  a  similar  country  opened  into 
view  until  we  found  a  newly-made  boma  with  well- 
built  huts  of  grass  near  a  pool  of  water,  which  we  at 
once  occupied  as  a  halting-place  for  the  night.  The 
cart  gave  us  considerable  trouble;  not  even  our  strongest 
donkey,  though  it  carried  with  ease  on  its  back  196  lbs., 
could  draw  the  cart  with  a  load  of  only  225  lbs.  weight. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  we  broke  camp 
and  started  for  Mikeseh.  By  8.30  a.m.  we  were  as- 
cending the  southern  face  of  the  Kira  Peak.  When 
we  had  gained  the  height  of  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  surrounding  country,  we  were  gratified 
with  a  magnificent  view  of  a  land  whose  soil  knows  no 
Sabbath,  which,  had  Professor  Malthus  himself  but 
seen,  he  had  never  penned  that  foolish  pamphlet  of  his 
about  legislating  for  the  prevention  of  early  marriages, 
and  raved  like  "Adversity  Hume"  about  over-crowded 
populations  and  certain  ruin  to  England.  If  there  are  too 
many  English-speaking  people  in  any  one  place  I  have 
as  much  faith  in  them  as  the  far-seeing  editor  of  '  Noctes 
Ambrosianse '  had  in  "  Brother  Jonathan,"  and  know 
that  their  stout  elbows  will  make  room  somewhere,  let 
the  weal  or  woe  of  those  who  withstand  them  light 
where  it  may.  There  are  plenty  of  Hengists  and 
Horsas,  Capt.  John  Smiths,  and  Pilgrim  Fathers  among 
the  Anglo-Saxon  race  yet,  and  when  America  is  filled 
up  w^ith  their  descendants,  who  shall  say  that  Africa, 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  113 


and  especially  this  glorious  part  of  it,  shall  not  be  their 
next  resting-place  ? 

After  travelling  the  spine  of  a  ridge  abutting  against 
the  southern  slope  of  Kira  we  again  descended  into  the 
little  valley  of  Kiwrima,  the  first  settlement  we  meet 
in  Udoe,  where  there  is  always  an  abundant  supply  of 
water.    Two  miles  west  of  Kiwrima  is  Mikiseh. 

On  the  16th  we  reached  Ulagalla  after  a  few  hours' 
march.  Ulagalla  is  the  name  of  a  district,  or  a  portion 
of  a  district,  lying  between  the  mountains  of  Uruguru 
which  bound  it  southerly,  and  the  mountains  of  Udoe 
lying  northerly  and  parallel  with  them,  and  but  ten 
miles  apart.  The  principal  part  of  the  basin  thus 
formed  is  called  Ulagalla. 

Muhalleh  is  the  next  settlement,  and  here  we  found 
ourselves  in  the  territory  of  the  Waseguhha.  On  this 
march  we  were  hemmed  in  by  mountains — on  our  left 
by  those  of  Uruguru,  on  our  right  by  those  of  Udoe 
and  Useguhha — a  most  agreeable  and  welcome  change 
to  us  after  the  long  miles  of  monotonous  level  we  had 
hitherto  seen.  When  tired  of  looking  into  the  depths 
of  the  forest  that  still  ran  on  either  side  of  the  road,  we 
had  but  to  look  up  to  the  mountain's  base,  to  note 
its  strange  trees,  its  plants  and  vari- colored  flowers, 
we  had  but  to  raise  our  heads  to  vary  this  pleasant 
occupation  by  observing  the  lengthy  and  sinuous  spine 
of  the  mountains,  and  mentally  report  upon  their  out- 
line, their  spurs,  their  projections  and  ravines,  their 
bulging  rocks  and  deep  clefts,  and,  above  all,  the  dark 
green  woods  clothing  them  from  summit  to  base.  And 
when  our  attention  was  not  required  for  the  mundane 
task  of  regarding  the  donkeys'  packs,  or  the  pace  of 
the  cautious-stepping  pagazis,  it  was  gratifying  to  watch 
the  vapors  play  about  the  mountain  summits — to  see 

I 


114 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


them  fold  into  fleecy  crowns  and  fantastic  clusters, 
dissolve,  gather  together  into  a  pall  that  threatened 
rain,  and  sail  away  again  before  the  brightening  sun. 

At  Muhalleh  was  the  fourth  caravan  under  Maganga 
with  three  more  sick  men,  who  turned  with  eager  eyes 
to  myself,  "  the  dispenser  of  medicine,"  as  I  approached. 
Salvos  of  small  arms  greeted  me,  and  a  present  of  rice 
and  ears  of  Indian  corn  for  roasting  were  awaiting  my 
acceptance ;  but,  as  I  told  Maganga,  I  would  have  pre- 
ferred to  hear  that  his  party  were  eight  or  ten  marches 
ahead.  At  this  camp,  also,  we  met  Salim  bin  Rashid, 
bound  eastward,  with  a  huge  caravan  carrying  three 
hundred  ivory  tusks.  This  good  Arab,  besides  welcom- 
ing the  new-comer  with  a  present  of  rice,  gave  me  news 
of  Livingstone.  He  had  met  the  old  traveller  at  Ujiji, 
had  lived  in  the  next  hut  to  him  for  two  weeks, 
described  him  as  looking  old,  with  long  grey  mous- 
taches and  beard,  just  recovered  from  severe  illness, 
looking  very  wan ;  when  fully  recovered  Livingstone 
intended  to  visit  a  country  called  Manyema  by  way  of 
Marungu. 

The  valley  of  the  Ungerengeri  with  Muhalleh 
exhibits  wonderful  fertility.  Its  crops  of  matama 
were  of  the  tallest,  and  its  Indian  corn  would  rival 
the  best  crops  ever  seen  in  the  Arkansas  bottoms.  The 
numerous  mountain-fed  streams  rendered  the  great 
depth  of  loam  very  sloppy,  in  consequence  of  which 
several  accidents  occurred  before  we  reached  the  camp, 
such  as  wetting  cloth,  mildewing  tea,  watering  sugar, 
and  rusting  tools ;  but  prompt  attention  to  these  neces- 
sary things  saved  us  from  considerable  loss. 

There  was  a  slight  difference  noticed  in  the  de- 
meanour and  bearing  of  the  Waseguhha  compared  with 
the  Wadoe,  Wakami,  and  Wakwere  heretofore  seen 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEOUHHA.  115 

There  was  none  of  that  civility  we  had  been  until  now 
pleased  to  note :  their  express  desire  to  barter  was 
accompanied  with  insolent  hints  that  we  ought  to  take 
their  produce  at  their  own  prices.  If  we  remonstrated 
they  became  angry ;  retorting  fiercely,  impatient  of 
opposition,  they  flew  into  a  passion,  and  were  glib  in 
threats.  This  strange  conduct,  so  opposite  to  that  of 
the  calm  and  gentle  Wakwere,  may  be  excellently 
illustrated  by  comparing  the  manner  of  the  hot-headed 
Greek  with  that  of  the  cool  and  collected  German. 
Necessity  compelled  us  to  purchase  eatables  of  them, 
and,  to  the  credit  of  the  country  and  its  productions  be 
it  said,  their  honey  had  the  peculiar  flavour  of  that  of 
famed  Hymettus. 

Following  the  latitudinal  valley  of  the  Ungerengeri, 
within  two  hours  on  the  following  morning  we  passed 
close  under  the  wall  of  the  capital  of  Useguhha — Sim- 
bam  wenni.  The  first  view  of  the  walled  town  at  the 
western  foot  of  the  Uruguru  mountains,  with  its  fine 
valley  abundantly  beautiful,  watered  by  two  rivers,  and 
several  pellucid  streams  of  water  distilled  by  the  dew 
and  cloud-enriched  heights  around,  was  one  that  we 
did  not  anticipate  to  meet  in  Eastern  Africa.  In 
Mazanderan,  Persia,  such  a  scene  would  have  answered 
our  expectations,  but  here  it  was  totally  unexpected. 
The  town  may  contain  a  population  of  3,000,  having 
about  1,000  houses;  being  so  densely  crowded  perhaps 
5,000  would  more  closely  approximate.  The  houses  in 
the  town  are  eminently  African,  but  of  the  best  type  of 
construction.  The  fortifications  are  on  an  Arabic  Persic 
model — combining  Arab  neatness  with  Persian  plan. 
Through  a  ride  of  950  miles  in  Persia  I  never  met  a  town 
outside  of  the  great  cities  better  fortified  than  Simbam- 
wenni.    In  Persia  the  fortifications  were  of  mud,  even 

I  2 


L1C 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


those  of  Kasvin,  Tsheran,  Ispahan,  and  Shiraz  ;  those  of 
Simbamwenni  are  of  stone,  pierced  with  two  rows  of 
loopholes  for  musketry.  The  area  of  the  town  is  about 
half  a  square  mile,  its  plan  being  quadrangular.  Well- 
built  towers  of  stone  guard  each  corner  ;  four  gates,  one 
facing  each  cardinal  point,  and  set  half-way  between  the 
several  towers,  permit  ingress  and  eirress  for  its  inhabi- 
tants. The  gates  are  closed  with  solid  square  doors  made 
of  African  teak,  and  carved  with  the  infinitesimally 
fine  and  complicated  devices  of  the  Arabs,  from  which  I 
suspect  that  the  doors  were  made  either  at  Zanzibar  or 
on  the  coast,  and  conveyed  to  Simbamwenni  plank  by 
plank  ;  yet  as  there  is  much  communication  between 
Bagamoyo  and  Simbamwenni,  it  is  just  possible  that 
native  artisans  are  the  authors  of  this  ornate  workman- 
ship, as  several  doors  chiselled  and  carved  in  the  same 
manner,  though  not  quite  so  elaborately,  were  visible 
in  the  largest  houses.  The  palace  of  the  Sultan  is  after 
the  style  of  those  on  the  coast,  with  long  sloping  roof, 
wide  eaves,  and  veranda  in  front. 

The  Sultana  is  the  eldest  daughter  of  the  famous 
Kisabengo,  a  name  infamous  throughout  the  neigh- 
bouring countries  of  Udoe,  Ukami,  Ukwere,  Kingaru, 
Ukwenni,  and  Kiranga- Wanna,  for  his  kidnapping  pro- 
pensities. Kisabengo  was  another  Theodore  on  a  small 
scale.  Sprung  from  humble  ancestry,  he  acquired  dis- 
tinction for  his  personal  strength,  his  powers  of  harangue, 
and  his  amusing  and  versatile  address,  by  which  he 
gained  great  ascendency  over  fugitive  slaves,  and  was 
chosen  a  leader  among  them.  Fleeing  from  justice  which 
awaited  him  at  the  hands  of  the  Zanzibar  Sultan,  he 
arrived  in  Ukami,  which  extended  at  that  time  from 
Ukwere  to  Usagara,  and  here  he  commenced  a  career  of 
conquest,  the  result  of  which  was  the  cession  by  the 


April  1871.]  THROUGH  UK  WERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEGUHHA.  117 


Wakami  of  an  immense  tract  of  fertile  country,  in 
the  valley  of  the  Ungerengeri.  On  its  most  desirable 
site,  with  the  river  flowing  close  under  the  walls,  he 
built  his  capital,  and  called  it  Simbamwenni,  which 
means  "  The  Lion,"  or  the  strongest  city.  In  old  age 
the  successful  robber  and  kidnapper  changed  his  name 
of  Kisabengo,  which  had  gained  such  a  notoriety, 
to  Simbamwenni,  after  his  town  ;  and  when  dying, 
after  desiring  that  his  eldest  daughter  should  succeed 
him,  he  bestowed  the  name  of  the  town  upon  her  also, 
which  name  of  Simbamwenni  the  Sultana  now  retains 
and  is  known  by. 

While  crossing  a  rapid  stream,  which,  as  I  said 
before,  flowed  close  to  the  walls,  the  inhabitants  of 
Simbamwenni  had  a  fine  chance  of  gratifying  their 
curiosity  of  seeing  the  "Great  Musungu,"  whose  several 
caravans  had  preceded  him,  and  who  unpardonably,  be- 
cause unlicensed,  had  spread  a  report  of  his  great  wealth 
and  power.  I  was  thus  the  object  of  a  universal  stare. 
At  one  time  on  the  banks  there  were  considerably  over 
a  thousand  natives  going  through  the  several  tenses  and 
moods  of  the  verb  "  to  stare,"  or  exhibiting  every  phase 
of  the  substantive,  viz. — the  stare  peremptory,  insolent, 
sly,  cunning,  modest,  and  casual.  The  warriors  of  the 
Sultana,  holding  in  one  hand  the  spear,  the  bow,  and 
sheaf  or  musket,  embraced  with  the  other  their  respec- 
tive friends,  like  so  many  models  of  Nisus  and  Euryalus, 
Theseus  and  Pirithous,  Damon  and  Phintias,  or  Achilles 
and  Patroclus,  to  whom  they  confidentially  related  their 
divers  opinions  upon  my  dress  and  color.  The  words 
"  Musungu  kuba "  had  as  much  charm  for  these 
people  as  the  music  of  the  Pied  Piper  had  for  the  rats 
of  Hamelin,  since  they  served  to  draw  from  within 
the  walls  across  their  stream  so  large  a  portion  of 


118 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  population ;  and  when  I  continued  the  journey 
to  the  Ungerengeri,  distant  four  miles,  I  feared  that  the 
Hamelin  catastrophe  might  have  to  be  repeated  before 
I  could  rid  myself  of  them.  But  fortunately  for  my 
peace  of  mind,  they  finally  proved  vincible  under  the 
hot  sun,  and  the  distance  we  had  to  go  to  camp. 

As  we  were  obliged  to  overhaul  the  luggage,  and 
repair  saddles,  as  well  as  to  doctor  a  few  of  the 
animals,  whose  backs  had  by  this  time  become  very 
sore,  I  determined  to  halt  here  two  days.  Provisions 
were  very  plentiful  also  at  Simbamwenni,  though  com- 
paratively dear. 

On  opening  the  Makanda-bound  luggage,  we  found 
it  to  be  much  better  than  we  had  anticipated, 
considering  the  series  of  thorough  drenchings  it  had 
lately  stood  ;  it  being  now  the  full  height  of  the  Masika 
season.  But  several  valuable  things,  such  as  cases 
of  ammunition  and  gun-boxes  and  tea,  had  suffered,  all 
of  which  I  ascribed  to  Shaw's  thoughtlessness  in 
driving  the  donkeys  across  gulleys  breast  deep  with 
water,  when  common  prudence  could  have  told  him  to 
unload.  In  calling  Shaw  to  my  tent  to  exhibit  to  him 
tne  loss,  my  gentleman  flew  into  a  passion,  and  charged 
me  with  requiring  from  him  too  much  work,  with 
being  too  fastidious,  and  impossible  to  please,  with  much 
else  of  the  same  tenor,  ending  his  stormy  reply  with 
stating  his  intention  to  quit  my  service,  and  to  return 
by  the  first  caravan  we  should  meet.  Responding,  I 
informed  him  that,  as  he  had  proved  himself  inefficient 
and  careless,  loving  his  ease  better  than  work,  I  would 
oppose  no  obstacle  to  his  departure  ;  that  he  might 
depart  that  moment  if  he  pleased,  but  must  go  without 
his  personal  baggage,  which  I  should  retain  in  lieu  of 
the  money  advanced  to  him  at  Zanzibar.    This  perti- 


April,  1871.]    THROUGH  UKWERE,  ETC.,  TO  USEOUHHA.  119 


nent  announcement  of  my  intention  restored  Shaw  to 
his  proper  equilibrium,  which  he  had  somewhat  lost 
during  his  wrathful  mood ;  and  before  many  hours  had 
elapsed  he  was  purposely  busy  on  my  concerns,  and 
peace  was  restored. 

On  the  second  day  I  was,  for  the  first  time,  made 
aware  that  my  acclimatization  in  the  ague-breeding 
swamps  of  Arkansas  was  powerless  against  the  Mu- 
kunguru  of  East  Africa.  The  premonitory  symptoms 
of  the  African  type  were  felt  in  my  system  at  10  a.m. 
First,  general  lassitude  prevailed,  with  a  disposition  tc 
drowsiness ;  secondly,  came  the  spinal  ache  which,  com- 
mencing from  the  loins,  ascended  the  vertebrae,  and 
extended  around  the  ribs,  until  it  reached  the  shoulders, 
where  it  settled  into  a  weary  pain ;  thirdly,  came  a  chil- 
liness over  the  whole  body,  which  was  quickly  followed 
by  a  heavy  head,  swimming  eyes,  and  throbbing  temples, 
with  vague  vision,  which  distorted  and  transformed  all 
objects  of  sight.  This  lasted  until  10  p.m.,  and  the 
Mukunguru  left  me,  much  prostrated  in  strength. 

The  remedy,  applied  for  three  mornings  in  succession 
after  the  attack,  was  such  as  my  experience  in  Arkansas 
had  taught  me  was  the  most  powerful  corrective,  viz., 
a  quantum  of  fifteen  grains  of  quinine,  taken  in  three 
doses  of  five  grains  each,  every  other  hour  from  dawn 
to  meridian — the  first  dose  to  be  taken  immediately 
after  the  first  effect  of  the  purging  medicine  taken  at 
bed-time  the  night  previous.  I  may  add  that  this 
treatment  was  perfectly  successful  in  my  case,  and  in 
all  others  which  occurred  in  my  camp.  After  the 
Mukunguru  had  declared  itself,  there  was  no  fear,  with 
such  a  treatment  of  it,  of  a  second  attack,  until  at  least 
some  days  afterwards. 

On  the  third  day  the  camp  was  visited  by  the  ambas- 


120 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


sadors  of  Her  Highness  the  Sultana  of  Simbamwenni, 
who  came  as  her  representatives  to  receive  the  tribute 
which  she  regards  herself  as  powerful  enough  to  enforce. 
But  they,  as  well  as  Madame  Simbamwenni,  were  in- 
formed, that  as  we  knew  it  was  their  custom  to  charge 
owners  of  caravans  but  one  tribute,  and  as  they  remem- 
bered the  Musungu  (Farquhar)  had  paid  already,  it 
was  not  fair  that  I  should  have  to  pay  again.  The 
ambassadors  replied  with  a  "  Ngema  "  (very  well),  and 
promised  to  carry  my  answer  back  to  their  mistress. 
Though  it  was  by  no  means  "  very  well  in  fact,"  as  it 
will  be  seen  in  a  subsequent  chapter  how  the  female 
Simbamwenni  took  advantage  of  an  adverse  fortune 
which  befell  me  to  pay  herself.  With  this  I  close  the 
chapter  of  incidents  experienced  during  our  transit 
across  the  maritime  region. 


PORTRAIT  OF  SHAW  AND  FARQUHAR. 


CHAPTER  V. 


TO  UGOGO. 


USEGUHHA.  h. 

Ungerengeri  River  to — 
Simbo  2 


Camp  in  plain. 
Makata  River  . 

USAGARA. 

Camp  west  of  Makata 
Camp  in  plain. 
Camp     , ,  . 
Rehenneko 

The  distance  from 


0 

10 

30 


5 

30 
0 

15 


h. 


Bagamoyo 


Rehenneko  to — 
Camp  on  mountain 
Kiora 

Camp  on  river 
Madete  . 
Lake  Ugombo 
Matamombo 
Mpwapwa  . 
Kisokweh  . 
Chunyo  . 

Simbamwenni 


to 


30 
40 
50 
30 
0 
0 
0 
0 

30 
we 


found  to  be  119  miles,  and  was  accomplished  in  four- 
teen marches.  But  these  marches,  owing  to  difficulties 
arising  from  the  Masika  season,  and  more  especially  to 
the  lagging  of  the  fourth  caravan  under  Maganga, 
extended   to   twenty-nine  days,  thus  rendering  our 


122 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


progress  very  slow  indeed — but  a  little  more  than  four 
miles  a-day.  I  infer,  from  what  I  have  seen  of  the  tra- 
velling, that  had  I  not  been  encumbered  by  the  sick 
Wanyamwezi  porters,  I  could  have  accomplished  the 
distance  in  sixteen  days.  For  it  was  not  the  donkeys  that 
proved  recreant  to  my  confidence ;  they,  poor  animals, 
carrying  a  weight  of  150  lbs.  each,  arrived  at  Simbam- 
wenni  in  first-rate  order ;  but  it  was  Maganga,  com- 
posed of  greed  and  laziness,  and  his  weakly-bodied,  syphi- 
litic tribe,  who  were  ever  falling  sick.  In  dry  weather 
the  number  of  marches  might  have  been  much  reduced. 
Of  the  half-dozen  of  Arabs  or  so  who  preceded  this 
Expedition  along  this  route,  two  accomplished  the 
entire  distance  in  eight  days.  From  the  brief  descrip- 
tions given  of  the  country,  as  it  day  by  day  expanded 
to  our  view,  enough  may  be  gleaned  to  give  readers 
a  fair  idea  of  it.  But,  casting  a  retrospective  glance 
away  from  Simbamwenni  to  distant  Bagamoyo  on  the 
coast,  I  know  of  one  state  in  our  country  that  might  be 
very  well  compared  to  this  tract  in  fertility,  in  physical 
contour,  in  its  forests  and  bits  of  level  prairie  inclosed 
by  tall  woods,  in  its  cones,  in  its  ridges  and  grand 
undulations,  verdure-clad — and  that  is  Missouri.  The 
elevation  of  Simbamwenni  cannot  be  much  over  1,000 
feet  above  the  level,  the  rise  of  the  land  having  been 
gradual.  It  being  the  rainy  season,  about  which  so 
many  ominous  statements  were  doled  out  to  us  by  those 
ignorant  of  the  character  of  the  country,  we  naturally 
saw  it  under  its  worst  aspect ;  but,  even  in  this  adverse 
phase  of  it,  with  all  its  depth  of  black  mud,  its  excessive 
dew,  its  dripping  and  chill  grass,  its  density  of  rank 
jungle,  and  its  crouching  fevers,  I  look  back  upon  the 
scene  with  pleasure,  for  the  wealth  and  prosperity  it 
promises  to  some  civilized  nation,  which  in  some  future 


April,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


123 


time  will  come  and  take  possession  of  it.  A  railroad 
from  Bagamoyo  to  Simbamwenni  might  be  constructed 
with  as  much  ease  and  rapidity  as,  and  at  far  less  cost 
than  the  Union  Pacific  Railway,  whose  rapid  strides 
day  by  day  towards  completion  the  world  heard  of  and 
admired.  A  residence  in  this  part  of  Africa,  after  a 
thorough  system  of  drainage  had  been  carried  out, 
would  not  be  attended  with  any  more  discomfort  than 
generally  follows  upon  the  occupation  of  new  land.  The 
temperature  at  this  season  during  the  day  never  exceeded 
85°  Fahrenheit.  The  nights  were  pleasant — too  cold 
without  a  pair  of  blankets  for  covering ;  and,  as  far  as 
Simbamwenni,  they  were  without  that  pest  which  is  so 
dreadful  on  the  Nebraska  and  Kansas  prairies,  the 
mosquito.  The  only  annoyances  I  know  of  that  would 
tell  hard  on  the  settler  is  the  determined  ferocity  of 
the  mabungu,  or  horse-fly,  the  chufwa,  &c,  already 
described,  which,  until  the  dense  forests  and  jungles 
were  cleared,  would  be  certain  to  render  the  keeping 
of  domestic  cattle  unremunerative. 

Contrary  to  expectation  the  Expedition  was  not  able 
to  start  at  the  end  of  two  days ;  the  third  and  the  fourth 
days  were  passed  miserably  enough  in  the  desponding 
valley  of  Ungerengeri.  This  river,  small  as  it  is  in  the 
dry  seasons,  becomes  of  considerable  volume  and  power 
during  the  Masika,  as  we  experienced  to  our  sorrow. 
It  serves  as  a  drain  to  a  score  of  peaks  and  two  long 
ranges  of  mountains ;  winding  along  their  base,  it  is  the 
recipient  of  the  cascades  seen  flashing  during  the  few 
intervals  of  sunlight,  of  all  the  nullahs  and  ravines 
which  render  the  lengthy  frontage  of  the  mountain 
slopes  so  rugged  and  irregular,  until  it  glides  into  the 
valley  of  Simbamwenni  a  formidable  body  of  water, 
opposing  a  serious  obstacle  to  caravans  without  means 


124 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  build  bridges;  added  to  which  was  an  incessant 
downfall  of  rain — such  a  rain  as  shuts  people  in-doors 
and  renders  them  miserable  and  unamiable — a  real 
London  rain — an  eternal  drizzle  accompanied  with  mist 
and  fog.  When  the  sun  shone  it  appeared  but  a  pale 
image  of  itself,  and  old  pagazis,  wise  in  their  traditions 
as  old  whaling  captains,  shook  their  heads  ominously  at 
the  dull  spectre,  and  declared  it  was  doubtful  if  the 
rain  would  cease  for  three  weeks  yet.  The  site  of  the 
caravan  camp  on  the  hither  side  of  the  Ungerengeri 
was  a  hot-bed  of  malaria,  unpleasant  to  witness — an 
abomination  to  memory.  The  filth  of  generations  of 
pagazis  had  gathered  innumerable  hosts  of  creeping 
things.  Armies  of  black,  white,  and  red  ants  infest  the 
stricken  soil ;  centipedes,  like  worms,  of  every  hue, 
clamber  over  shrubs  and  plants ;  hanging  to  the  under- 
growth are  the  honey-combed  nests  of  yellow-headed 
wasps  with  stings  as  harmful  as  scorpions ;  enormous 
beetles,  as  large  as  full-grown  mice,  roll  dunghills  over 
the  ground ;  of  all  sorts,  shapes,  sizes,  and  hues  are  the 
myriad-fold  vermin  with  which  the  ground  teems ;  in 
short,  the  richest  entomological  collection  could  not  vie 
in  variety  and  numbers  with  the  species  which  the  four 
walls  of  my  tent  enclosed  from  morning  until  night. 

On  the  fifth  morning,  or  the  23rd  April,  the  rain 
gave  us  a  few  hours'  respite,  during  which  we  managed 
to  wade  through  the  Stygian  quagmire  reeking  with 
noisomeness  to  the  inundated  river-bank.  The  soldiers 
commenced  at  5  a.m.  to  convey  the  baggage  across  from 
bank  to  bank  over  a  bridge  which  was  the  most  rustic 
of  the  rustic  kind.  Only  an  ignorant  African  would 
have  been  satisfied  with  its  small  utility  as  a  means 
to  cross  a  deep  and  rapid  body  of  water.  Even  for  light- 
footed  Wanyamwezi  pagazis  it  was  anything  but  com- 


April,  1871.] 


TO  UGOQO. 


125 


fortable  to  traverse.  Only  a  professional  tight-rope 
performer  could  have  carried  a  load  across  with  ease. 
To  travel  over  an  African  bridge  requires,  first,  a  long 
leap  from  land  to  the  limb  of  a  tree  (which  may  or  may 
not  be  covered  by  water),  followed  by  a  long  jump 
ashore.  With  70  lbs.  weight  on  his  back,  the  carrier 
finds  it  difficult  enough.  Sometimes  he  is  assisted  by 
ropes  extemporized  from  the  long  convolvuli  which 
hang  from  almost  every  tree,  but  not  always,  these 
being  deemed  superfluities  by  the  Washensi. 

Fortunately  the  baggage  was  transferred  without  a 
single  accident,  and  though  the  torrent  was  strong,  the 
donkeys  were  dragged  through  the  flood  by  vigorous 
efforts  and  much  objurgation  without  a  casualty.  This 
performance  of  crossing  the  Ungerengeri  occupied  fully 
five  hours,  though  energy,  abuse,  and  fury  enough 
were  expended  for  an  army. 

.Reloading  and  wringing  our  clothes  dry,  we  set  out 
from  the  horrible  neighbourhood  of  the  river,  with  its 
reek  and  filth,  in  a  northerly  direction,  following  a  road 
which  led  up  to  easy  and  level  ground.  Two  obtruding 
hills  were  thus  avoided  on  our  left,  and  after  passing 
them  we  had  shut  out  the  view  of  the  hateful  valley. 

I  always  found  myself  more  comfortable  and  light- 
hearted  while  travelling  than  when  chafing  and  fretting 
in  camp  at  delays  which  no  effort  could  avoid,  and 
consequently  I  fear  that  some  things,  while  on  a  march, 
may  be  tinted  somewhat  stronger  than  their  appearance 
or  merit  may  properly  warrant.  But  I  thought  that 
the  view  opening  before  us  was  much  more  agreeable 
than  the  valley  of  Simbamwenni  with  all  its  indescrib- 
able fertility.  It  was  a  series  of  glades  opening  one 
after  another  between  forest  clumps  of  young  trees, 
hemmed  in  distantly  by  isolated  peaks  and  scattered 


126 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


mountains.  Now  and  again,  as  we  crested  low  emi- 
nences we  caught  sight  of  the  blue  Usagara  mountains, 
bounding  the  horizon  westerly  and  northerly,  and  looked 
down  upon  a  vast  expanse  of  plain  which  lay  between. 

At  the  foot  of  the  lengthy  slope,  well-watered  by 
bubbling  springs  and  mountain  rills,  we  found  a  com- 
fortable khambi  with  well-made  huts,  which  the  natives 
call  Simbo.  It  lies  just  two  hours  or  five  miles  north- 
west of  the  Ungerengeri  crossing.  The  ground  is 
rocky,  composed  principally  of  quartzose  detritus  swept 
down  by  the  constant  streams.  In  the  neighbourhood 
of  these  grow  bamboo,  the  thickest  of  which  was  about 
two  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter ;  the  "  myombo,"  a 
very  shapely  tree,  with  a  clean  trunk  like  an  ash,  the 
"  imbite,"  with  large,  fleshy  leaves  like  the  "  mtamba," 
sycamore,  plum-tree,  the  "  ugaza,"  or  tamarisk,  and  the 
"  mgungu,"  a  tree  containing  several  wide  branches 
with  small  leaves  clustered  together  in  a  clump,  and  the 
silk-cotton  tree. 

Though  there  are  no  villages  or  settlements  in  view 
of  Simbo  Khambi,  there  are  several  clustered  within 
the  mountain  folds,  inhabited  by  Waseguhha  somewhat 
prone  to  dishonest  acts  and  murder. 

On  the  morning  of  the  24th,  as  we  were  about  to 
leave  Simbo,  an  accident  occurred  which  was  the  cause 
of  much  anxiety  to  me  for  many  days.  Bunder  Salaam, 
a  native  of  Malabar,  employed  as  my  cook,  was  caught 
for  the  fifth  time  pilfering  the  rations  of  my  mess. 
His  confederate  and  bosom-friend  Abdul  Kader,  sub- 
cook,  tailor,  and  supernumerary,  and  Selim  the  Arab 
boy,  were  the  informers  and  witnesses,  and,  accord- 
ingly, after  an  impartial  examination  and  forgive- 
ness for  the  fourth  time,  Shaw  was  ordered  to 
administer  to  him  one  dozen  lashes.    The  flogging  was 


April,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


127 


given  to  him  over  his  clothes,  and  consequently  was 
not  very  severe,  and  but  reasonably  adequate  to  the 
offence ;  but  the  severest  measure  was  his  expulsion 
from  camp,  he  and  his  donkey  and  kit,  with  the 
declaration  that  I  would  bear  with  no  such  incorrigible 
thief.  I  did  not  mean  that  he  should  be  really  driven 
away,  and  put  at  the  mercy  of  every  greedy  Mshensi 
he  should  meet,  but  I  thought  that  a  good  scare  would 
have  a  good  effect  in  amending  his  evil  propensities. 
But  the  cook  took  it  in  good  earnest,  and  as  soon  as  his 
hands  were  released  he  rushed  out  from  camp  towards 
the  mountains  without  regarding  hat,  donkey,  or  pro- 
perty. Bombay  and  Abdul  Kader  used  their  lungs  in 
vain  to  recall  the  fugitive.  Bunder  Salaam  would  not 
return,  but,  thinking  that  he  might  possibly  do  so,  his 
donkey,  with  his  property,  was  tied  to  a  tree  near  the 
camp,  while  we  proceeded  on  our  march. 

The  long  broad  plain  visible  from  the  eminences 
crossed  between  the  Ungerengeri  and  Simbo  was  now 
before  us,  and  became  known  to  sorrowful  memory  sub- 
sequently, as  the  Makata  Valley.  The  initial  march  was 
from  Simbo,  its  terminus  at  Rehenneko,  at  the  base  of 
the  Usagara  mountains,  six  marches  distant.  The  valley 
commences  with  broad  undulations,  covered  with  yonng 
forests  of  bamboo,  which  grow  thickly  along  the 
streams,  the  dwarf  fan-palm,  the  stately  Palmyra,  and 
the  mgungu.  These  undulations  soon  become  broken  by 
gulleys  containing  water,  nourishing  dense  crops  of  cane 
reeds  and  broad-bladed  glass,  and,  emerging  from  this 
district,  wide  savannahs  covered  with  tall  grass  open 
into  view,  with  an  isolated  tree  here  and  there  agree- 
ably breaking  the  monotony  of  the  scene.  The  Makata 
is  a  wilderness  containing  but  one  village  of  the 
Waseguhha  throughout  its  broad  expanse.  Venison, 


a  28 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


consequently,  abounds  within  the  forest  clumps,  and 
the  kudu,  hartebeest,  antelope,  and  zebra  may  be  seen  at 
early  dawn  emerging  into  the  open  savannahs  to  feed. 
At  night,  the  cyn-hysena  prowls  about  with  its  hideous 
clamour  seeking  for  sleeping  prey,  man  or  beast. 

The  slushy  mire  of  the  savannahs  rendered  marching 
a  work  of  great  difficulty;  its  tenacious  hold  of  the 
feet  told  terribly  on  men  and  animals.  A  ten-mile 
march  required  ten  hours,  we  were  therefore  compelled 
to  camp  in  the  middle  of  this  wilderness,  and  construct 
a  new  khambi,  a  measure  which  was  afterwards  adopted 
by  half  a  dozen  caravans. 

The  cart  did  not  arrive  until  nearly  midnight,  and 
with  it,  besides  three  or  four  broken-down  pagazis, 
came  Bombay  with  the  dolorous  tale,  that  having  put 
his  load — consisting  of  the  property  tent,  one  large 
American  axe,  his  two  uniform  coats,  his  shirts,  beads 
and  cloth,  powder,  pistol  and  hatchet — on  the  ground, 
to  go  and  assist  the  cart  out  of  a  quagmire,  he  had 
returned  to  the  place  where  he  had  left  it  and  could 
not  find  it,  that  he  believed  that  some  thieving 
Washensi,  who  always  lurk  in  the  rear  of  caravans  to 
pick  up  stragglers,  had  decamped  with  it.  Which 
dismal  tale  told  me  at  black  midnight  was  not  received 
at  all  graciously,  but  rather  with  most  wrathful  words, 
all  of  which  the  penitent  captain  received  as  his 
proper  due.  Working  myself  into  a  fury,  I  enume- 
rated his  sins  to  him  :  he  had  lost  a  goat  at  Muhalleh, 
he  had  permitted  Khamisi  to  desert  with  valuable 
property  at  Imbiki  ;  lie  had  frequently  shown  culpable 
negligence  in  not  looking  after  the  donkeys,  pe^  tnit- 
ting  them  to  be  tied  up  at  night  without  seeing  that 
they  had  water,  and  in  the  mornings,  when  about  to 
march,  he  preferred  to  sleep  until  7  o'clock,  rather 


Ai'BiL,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


129 


than  wake  up  early  and  saddle  the  donkeys,  that  we 
might  start  at  6  o'clock ;  he  had  shown  of  late  great 
love  for  the  fire,  cowering  like  a  bloodless  man  before 
it,  torpid  and  apathetic  ;  he  had  now  lost  the  property- 
tent  in  the  middle  of  the  Masika  season,  by  which 
carelessness  the  cloth  bales  would  rot  and  become 
valueless;  he  had  lost  the  axe  which  I  should  want 
at  Ujiji  to  construct  my  boat ;  he  had  lost  a  pistol  and 
hatchet,  and  a  flaskful  of  the  best  powder ;  and,  finally, 
had  come  to  camp  without  the  cook,  when  he  well 
knew  that  I  never  meant  that  the  poor  fellow  should 
be  driven  out  by  himself  to  be  murdered.  Considering 
all  these  things,  how  utterly  incompetent  he  was  to 
be  captain,  I  would  degrade  him  from  his  office  and 
appoint  Mabruki  Burton  instead.  Uledi,  also  (Grant's 
valet),  following  the  example  of  Bombay,  instead  of 
being  second  captain,  should  give  no  orders  to  any 
soldiers  in  future,  but  should  himself  obey  those  given 
by  Mabruki — the  said  Mabruki  being  worth  a  dozen 
Bombay s,  and  two  dozen  Uledis ;  and  so  he  was  dis- 
missed with  orders  to  return  at  daylight  to  find  the 
tent,  axe,  pistol,  powder,  and  hatchet. 

The  next  morning  the  caravan,  thoroughly  fatigued 
with  the  last  day's  exertions,  was  obliged  to  halt. 
Bombay  was  despatched  after  the  lost  goods  ;  Kingaru, 
Mabruki  the  Great,  and  Mabruki  the  Little  were  de- 
spatched as  far  as  Simbamwenni  after  the  missing  cook, 
and  on  their  return  with  him  were  to  bring  back  three 
doti-worth  of  grain,  on  which  we  were  to  subsist  in  the 
wilderness. 

Three  days  passed  away  and  we  were  still  at  camp, 
awaiting,  with  what  patience  we  possessed,  the  return 
of  the  soldiers  sent  after  the  foolish  Hindi.  In  the 
meantime  provisions  ran  very  low,  no  game  could  be 

K 


180 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


procured,  the  birds  were  so  wild.  Two  days'  shooting 
procured  but  two  potfulls  of  birds,  consisting  of  grouse, 
quail,  and  pigeons.  Bombay  returned  unsuccessfully 
from  his  search  after  the  missing  property,  and  suffered 
deep  disgrace. 

On  the  fourth  day  I  despatched  Shaw  with  two  more 
soldiers,  to  see  what  had  become  of  Kingaru  and  the 
two  Mabrukis.  Towards  night  he  returned  completely 
prostrated,  with  a  violent  attack  of  the  Mukunguru,  or 
ague ;  but  bringing  the  missing  soldiers,  who  were 
thus  left  to  report  for  themselves. 

The  summary  of  their  report  amounts  to  this  : — 
On  leaving  our  camp  they  had  marched  quickly  to 
Simbo,  which  place  they  reached  by  10  a.m.  After 
searching  the  neighbourhood  of  our  late  khambi  at 
that  place,  for  traces  of  Bunder  Salaam,  or  of  his 
donkey  and  property,  and  finding  none,  they  decided 
to  proceed  straight  to  the  Ungerengeri  bridge,  and 
make  inquiries  of  its  proprietors  concerning  the 
passengers  who  had  crossed  since  the  departure  of  the 
Musungu.  At  the  bridge  they  heard  that  a  white 
donkey,  such  as  had  been  seen  with  the  Musungu, 
crossed  the  river  towards  Simbamwenni  ;  but  no 
Hindi  in  Kisungu  clothes  had  been  seen.  My  three 
dusky  detectives  were  spurred  to  quicker  motion  by 
this  intelligence,  believing  without  a  doubt  that  the 
cook  had  been  murdered  by  those  Washensi,  who 
were  seen  driving  his  donkey,  with  all  the  cook's 
property  on  its  back.  At  Simbamwenni  they  arrived 
in  short  time,  and  to  the  wondering  warriors  at  its 
western  gate,  they  breathlessly  imparted  the  intelli- 
gence that  two  Washensi,  who  must  have  passed  their 
town  driving  a  white  donkey,  had  murdered  a  man 
in  Kisungu  clothes,  belonging  to  the  Musungu.  The 


April,  1871.]  TO  UOOOO.  131 

men  of  Simbamwenni  conducted  my  messengers  to 
the  Sultana,  to  whom  they  told  their  story.  The 
Sultana  demanded  of  the  watchmen  of  the  towers  if 
they  had  seen  the  two  Washensi  with  the  white 
donkey.  The  watchmen  answered  in  the  affirmative  ; 
upon  which  she  at  once  despatched  twenty  of  her 
musketeers  in  pursuit  to  Muhalleh,  who  returned  before 
night,  bringing  with  them  the  two  Washensi,  and  the 
donkey  with  the  cook's  entire  kit.  The  Sultana,  who 
is  evidently  possessed  of  her  father's  energy,  with  all 
his  lust  for  wealth,  had  my  messengers,  the  two 
Washensi,  the  cook's  donkey  and  property,  at  once 
brought  before  her.  The  two  Washensi  wrere  ques- 
tioned as  to  how  they  became  possessed  of  the  donkey, 
and  such  a  store  of  Kisungu  clothes,  cloth,  and  beads ; 
to  which  they  answered  that  they  had  found  the 
donkey  tied  to  a  tree,  with  the  property  on  the  ground 
close  to  it ;  that  seeing  no  owner  or  claimant  anywhere 
in  the  neighbourhood,  they  thought  they  had  a  right 
to  it,  and  accordingly  had  taken  it  with  them.  My 
soldiers  were  then  asked  if  they  recognized  the  donkey 
and  property,  to  which  question  they  unhesitatingly  made 
answer  that  they  did.  They  further  informed  Her 
Highness  that  they  were  not  only  sent  after  the  donkey 
and  property,  but  also  after  the  owner,  who  had  deserted 
their  master's  service  ;  they  would  like  to  know  from 
the  Washensi  what  they  had  done  with  him.  Her 
Highness  was  also  anxious  to  know  what  the  Washensi 
had  done  with  the  Hindi,  and  accordingly,  in  order  to 
elicit  the  fact,  she  charged  them  with  murdering  him ; 
and  informed  them,  she  but  wished  to  know  what  they 
had  done  with  the  body.  The  Washensi  declared  most 
earnestly  that  they  had  spoken  the  truth,  that  they  had 
never  seen  any  such  man  as  described  ;  and  if  the 

k  2 


132 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Sultana  desired  it  they  would  swear  to  such  a  state- 
ment. Her  Highness  did  not  wish  them  to  swear  to 
what  she  believed  in  her  heart  to  be  a  lie;  but  she 
would  chain  them,  and  send  them  in  charge  of  a  cara- 
van to  Zanzibar  to  Syed  Burghash,  who  would  know 
what  to  do  with  them.  Then  turning  to  my  soldiers, 
she  demanded  to  know  why  the  Musungu  had  not  paid 
the  tribute  for  which  she  had  sent  her  chiefs.  The 
soldiers  could  not  answer,  knowing  nothing  of  such 
concerns  of  their  master.  The  heiress  of  Kisabengo, 
true  to  the  character  of  her  robber  sire,  then  informed 
my  trembling  men,  that  as  the  Musungu  had  not  paid 
the  tribute,  she  would  now  take  it ;  their  guns  should 
be  taken  from  them,  together  with  that  of  the  cook — 
the  cloth  and  beads  found  on  the  donkey  she  would  also 
take,  the  Hindi's  personal  clothes  her  chiefs  should 
retain ;  while  they  themselves  should  be  chained  until 
the  Musungu  himself  should  return  to  take  them  by 
force.  And  as  she  threatened,  so  was  it  done.  For 
sixteen  hours  my  soldiers  were  in  chains  in  the  market- 
place, exposed  to  the  taunts  of  the  servile  populace. 
It  chanced  the  next  day,  however,  that  Sheikh  Thani, 
whom  I  had  met  at  Kingaru,  and  had  since  passed  by 
five  days,  had  arrived  at  Simbamwenni,  and  proceeding 
to  the  town  to  purchase  provisions  for  the  crossing  of 
the  Makata  wilderness,  saw  my  men  in  chains,  and  at 
once  recognized  them  as  being  in  my  employ.  After 
hearing  their  story,  the  good-hearted  Sheikh  sought  the 
presence  of  the  Sultana,  and  informed  her  that  she  was 
■doing  very  wrong — a  wrong  that  could  terminate  onl^ 
in  blood.  "  The  Musungu  is  strong,"  he  said,  "  very 
strong ;  he  has  got  two  guns  which  shoot  forty  times 
without  stopping,  carrying  bullets  half  an  hours 
distance ;  he  has  got  several  guns  which  carry  bullets 


April,  1871.] 


TO  UOOOO. 


133 


that  burst,  and  tear  a  man  in  pieces.  He  could  go  to 
the  top  of  that  mountain,  and  could  kill  every  man, 
woman,  and  child  in  the  town,  before  one  of  your 
soldiers  could  reach  the  top.  The  road  will  then  be 
stopped,  Syed  Burghash  will  march  against  your 
country,  the  Wadoe  and  Wakami  will  come  and  take 
revenge  on  what  is  left ;  and  the  place  that  your  father 
made  so  strong  will  know  the  Waseguhha  no  more. 
Set  free  the  Musungu's  soldiers ;  give  them  their  food, 
and  grain  for  the  Musungu ;  return  the  guns  to  the 
men  and  let  them  go  ;  for  the  white  man  may  even 
now  be  on  his  way  here." 

The  exaggerated  report  of  my  power  and  dread  pic- 
ture sketched  by  the  Arab  Sheikh  produced  good  effect, 
inasmuch  as  Kingaru  and  the  Mabrukis  were  at  once 
released  from  durance,  furnished  with  food  sufficient  to 
last  our  caravan  four'days,  and  one  gun,  with  its  ac- 
coutrements and  stock  of  bullets  and  powder,  was 
returned,  as  well  as  the  cook's  donkey,  with  a  pair 
of  spectacles,  a  book  in  Malabar  print,  and  an  old  hat 
which  belonged  to  one  whom  we  all  now  believed  to  be 
dead.  The  Sheikh  took  charge  of  the  soldiers  as  far  as 
Simbo ;  and  it  was  in  his  camp,  partaking  largely  of 
rice  and  ghee,  that  Shaw  found  them,  and  the  same 
bountiful  hospitality  was  extended  to  him  and  his 
companions. 

I  heard  this  long  story  in  much  astonishment,  with 
my  bosom  surging  with  the  various  and  conflicting 
emotions  it  evoked,  it  was  so  utterly  different  in  its 
entirety  from  what  I  had  anticipated.  First,  I  believed 
the  cook  would  be  found,  and  had  not  the  least  idea 
that  any  dire  fate  had  befallen  him ;  then  there  were 
keen  regrets  that  I  had  punished  him,  and  mental  vows 
that,  whatever  member  of  my  caravan  robbed  me  of 


131 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


any  valuable,  I  would  not  drive  him  out  to  perish  at 
the  hands  of  such  ruthless  assassins.  Secondly,  there 
was  much  astonishment  at  the  conduct  of  the  Amazon 
Simbamwenni,  for  it  was  contrary  to  custom  that  she 
should  demand  two  tributes  from  one  owner  ;  and  had 
it  not  been  the  custom,  the  four  days  I  encamped  on  the 
Ungerengeri  allowed  sufficient  time  to  rectify  any  error 
I  may  have  committed  by  refusal  to  render  tribute  ; 
and  I  surely  would  not  have  imperilled  the  safety  of 
my  caravan  had  her  ambassadors  returned  to  reiterate 
the  demand.  And  tins  feeling  was  succeeded  by  hot 
indignation  at  the  base  robbery  of  my  guns,  which 
might  have  prompted  me  to  retaliate  on  the  suburbs  of 
the  town  had  I  been  nearer  to  Simbamwenni ;  but  the 
delay  of  four  days,  which  the  search  after  the  cook  had 
occasioned,  cooled  my  ire  to  such  an  extent,  that  I  began 
to  feel  thankful  that  my  ill  luck  was  no  worse.  Thirdly, 
there  was  much  amusement  at  the  well-intentioned  exa<r- 
gerations  of  Sheikh  Thani,  and  the  woeful  tale  of  the 
three  soldiers.  That  night  I  wrote  a  full  account  of 
what  transpired,  to  be  despatched  to  the  American 
Consul  by  the  first  caravan  bound  eastward,  so  that 
Syed  Burghash  might  know  both  sides  of  the  story 
which  the  unaccountable  disappearance  of  the  cook  had 
created. 

With  most  thankful  hearts  did  we  quit  our  camp, 
where  so  much  anxiety  of  mind  and  fretfulness  had 
been  suffered,  not  heeding  a  furious  rain,  which,  after 
drenching  us  all  night,  might  have  somewhat  damped 
our  ardor  for  the  march  under  other  circumstances.  The 
road  for  the  first  mile  led  over  reddish  ground,  and  was 
drained  by  gentle  slopes  falling  east  and  west ;  but, 
leaving  the  cover  of  the  friendly  woods,  on  whose 
eastern  margin  we  had  been   delayed  so  long,  we 


Apbil,  1871.] 


TO  UOOGO. 


135 


emerged  into  one  of  the  savannahs,  whose  soil  during 
the  rains  is  as  soft  as  slush  and  tenacious  as  thick 
mortar,  where  we  were  all  threatened  with  the  fate  of 
the  famous  Arkansas  traveller,  who  had  sunk  so  low  in 
one  of  the  many  quagmires  in  Arkansas  county,  that 
nothing  but  his  tall  stove-pipe  hat  was  left  visible. 

Shaw  was  sick,  and  the  whole  duty  of  driving  the 
foundering  caravan  devolved  upon  myself.  The  Wan- 
yamwezi  donkeys  stuck  in  the  mire  as  if  they  were 
rooted  to  it.  As  fast  as  one  was  flogged  from  his  stub- 
born position,  prone  to  the  depths  fell  another,  giving 
me  a  Sisyphean  labour,  which  was  maddening  under 
pelting  rain,  assisted  by  such  men  as  Bombay  and  Uledi, 
who  could  not  for  a  whole  skin's  sake  stomach  the  storm 
and  mire.  Two  hours  of  such  a  task  enabled  me  to 
drag  my  caravan  over  a  savannah  one  mile  and  a  half 
broad  ;  and  barely  had  I  finished  congratulating  myself 
over  my  success  before  I  was  halted  by  a  deep  ditch, 
which,  filled  with  rain-water  from  the  inundated  savan- 
nahs, had  become  a  considerable  stream,  breast-deep, 
flowing  swiftly  into  the  Makata.  Donkeys  had  to  be 
unloaded,  led  through  a  torrent,  and  loaded  again  on  the 
other  bank — an  operation  which  consumed  a  full  hour. 

Presently,  after  straggling  through  a  wood  clump, 
barring  our  progress  was  another  stream,  swollen  into 
a  river.  The  bridge  being  swept  away,  we  were  obliged 
to  swim  and  float  our  baggage  over,  which  delayed  us 
two  hours  more.  Leaving  this  second  river-bank,  we 
splashed,  waded,  occasionally  half-swimming,  and  reeled 
through  mire,  water-dripping  grass  and  matama  stalks, 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  Makata  proper,  until  farther 
progress  was  effectually  prevented  for  that  day  by  a 
deep  bend  of  the  river,  which  we  should  be  obliged  to 
cross  the  next  day. 


136 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Though  but  six  miles  were  traversed  during  thai 
miserable  day.  the  march  occupied  ten  hours. 

Half  dead  with  fatigue,  I  yet  could  feel  thankful  that 
it  was  not  accompanied  by  fever,  which  it  seemed  a 
miracle  to  avoid ;  for  if  ever  a  district  was  cursed 
with  the  ague,  the  Makata  wilderness  ranks  foremost  of 
those  afflicted.  Surely  the  sight  of  the  dripping  woods 
enveloped  in  opaque  mist,  of  the  inundated  country 
with  lengthy  swathes  of  tiger-grass  laid  low  by  the 
turbid  flood,  of  mounds  of  decaying  trees  and  canes,  of 
the  swollen  river  and  the  weeping  sky,  was  enough 
to  engender  the  Mukunguru  !  The  well-used  kliambi, 
and  the  heaps  of  filth  surrounding  it,  were  enough  to 
create  a  cholera ! 

The  Makata,  a  river  whose  breadth  during  the  dry 
season  is  but  forty  feet,  in  the  Masika  season  assumes 
the  breadth,  depth,  and  force  of  an  important  river. 
Should  it  happen  to  be  an  unusually  rainy  season, 
it  inundates  the  great  plain  which  stretches  on  either 
side,  and  converts  it  into  a  great  lake.  It  is  the  main 
feeder  of  the  Wami  river,  which  empties  into  the  sea 
between  the  ports  of  Saadani  and  Wbnide.  About 
ten  miles  north-east  of  the  Makata  crossing,  the  Great 
Makata,  the  Little  Makata,  a  nameless  creek,  and 
the  Rudewa  river  unite  ;  and  the  river  thus  formed 
becomes  known  as  the  Wami.  Throughout  Usagara 
the  Wami  is  known  as  the  Mukondokwa.  Three  of 
these  streams  take  their  rise  from  the  crescent-like 
Usagara  range,  which  bounds  the  Makata  plain  south 
and  south-westerly  ;  while  the  Rudewa  rises  in  the 
northern  horn  of  the  same  range. 

So  swift  was  the  flow  of  the  Makata,  and  so  much 
did  its  unsteady  bridge,  half  buried  in  the  water, 
imperil  the  safety  of  the  property,  that  its  transfer 


April,  1871.] 


TO  UGOOO. 


137 


from  bank  to  bank  occupied  fully  five  hours.  No 
sooner  had  we  landed  every  article  on  the  other  side, 
undamaged  by  the  water,  than  the  rain  poured  down 
in  torrents  that  drenched  them  all,  as  if  they  had 
been  dragged  through  the  river.  To  proceed  through 
the  swamp  which  an  hour's  rain  had  formed  was 
utterly  out  of  the  question.  We  were  accordingly 
compelled  to  camp  in  a  place  where  every  hour  fur- 
nished its  quota  of  annoyance.  One  of  the  Wauguana 
soldiers  engaged  at  Bagamoyo,  named  Kingaru,  im- 
proved an  opportunity  to  desert  with  another  Mgwana's 
kit.  My  two  detectives,  Uledi  (Grant's  valet),  and 
Sarmian,  were  immediately  despatched  in  pursuit,  both 
being  armed  with  American  breech-loaders.  They  went 
about  their  task  with  an  adroitness  and  celerity  which 
augured  well  for  their  success.  In  an  hour  they 
returned  with  the  runaway,  having  found  him  hidden 
in  the  house  of  a  Mseguhha  chief  called  Kigondo,  who 
lived  about  a  mile  from  the  eastern  bank  of  the  river, 
and  who  had  accompanied  Uledi  and  Sarmian  to 
receive  his  reward,  and  render  an  account  of  the 
incident. 

Kigondo  said,  when  he  had  been  seated,  "  I  saw 
this  man  carrying  a  bundle,  and  running  hard,  by 
which  I  knew  that  he  was  deserting  you.  We  (my 
wife  and  I)  were  sitting  in.  our  little  watch-hut  watch- 
ing our  corn ;  and,  as  the  road  runs  close  by,  this  man 
was  obliged  to  come  close  to  us.  We  called  to  him 
when  he  was  near,  saying,  '  Master,  where  are  you 
going  so  fast?  Are  you  deserting  the  Musungu,  for 
we  know  you  belong  to  him,  since  you  bought  from 
us  yesterday  two  doti  worth  of  meat  ?'  6  Yes,'  said 
he,  6 1  am  running  away ;  I  want  to  get  to  Sim- 
bam  wenni.    If  you  will  take  me  there,  I  will  give  you 


138 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


a  doti.'  We  said  to  him  then,  '  Come  into  our  house, 
and  we  will  talk  it  over  quietly/  When  he  was  in  our 
house  in  an  inner  room,  we  locked  him  up,  and  went 
out  again  to  the  watch  ;  but  leaving  word  with  the 
women  to  look  out  for  him.  We  knew  that,  if  you 
wanted  him,  you  would  send  askari  (soldiers)  after  him. 
We  had  but  lit  our  pipes  when  we  saw  two  men  armed 
with  short  guns,  and  having  no  loads,  coming  along 
the  road,  looking  now  and  then  on  the  ground,  as  if 
they  were  looking  at  footmarks.  We  knew  them  to  be 
the  men  we  were  expecting ;  so  we  hailed  them,  and 
said,  4  Masters,  what  are  ye  looking  for  ?'  They  said, 
'  We  are  looking  for  a  man  who  has  deserted  our  master. 
Here  are  his  footsteps.  If  you  have  been  long  in  your 
hut  you  must  have  seen  him.  Can  you  tell  us  where 
he  is  ?'  We  said,  4  Yes ;  he  is  in  our  house.  If  you 
will  come  with  us,  we  will  give  him  up  to  you ;  but 
your  master  must  give  us  something  for  catching 
him.'  " 

As  Kigondo  had  promised  to  deliver  Kingaru  up,  there 
remained  nothing  further  to  do  for  Uledi  and  Sarmian 
but  to  take  charge  of  their  prisoner,  and  bring  him 
and  his  captors  to  my  camp  on  the  western  bank  of 
the  Makata.  Kingaru  received  two  dozen  lashes,  and 
was  chained ;  his  captor  a  doti,  besides  five  khete  of  red 
coral  beads  for  his  wife. 

That  down-pour  of  rain  which  visited  us  the  day 
we  crossed  the  Makata  proved  the  last  of  the 
Masika  season.  As  the  first  rainfall  which  we  had 
experienced  occurred  on  the  23rd  March,  and  the  last 
on  the  30th  April,  its  duration  was  thirty -nine  days. 
The  seers  of  Bagamoyo  had  delivered  their  vaticina- 
tions concerning  this  same  Masika  with  solemnity. 
"  For  forty  days,"  said  they,  6i  rain  would  fall  inces- 


Mat,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


139 


santly  ;"  whereas  we  had  but  experienced  eighteen 
days'  rain.  Nevertheless,  we  were  glad  that  it  was 
over,  for  we  were  tired  of  stopping  day  after  day  to 
dry  the  bales  and  grease  the  tools  and  ironware,  and 
of  seeing  all  things  of  cloth  and  leather  rot  visibly 
before  our  eyes. 

The  1st  of  May  found  us  struggling  through  the 
mire  and  water  of  the  Makata  with  a  caravan  bodily 
sick,  from  the  exertion  and  fatigue  of  crossing  so  many 
rivers  and  wading  through  marshes.  Shaw  was  still 
suffering  from  his  first  Mukunguru,  exhibiting  himself 
under  a  new  phase — a  phase  none  of  the  pleasantest. 
Besides  delivering  himself  of  certain  desires  not  at  all 
complimentary  to  the  Expedition  within  nervous  hear- 
ing, he  seemed  to  assume  by  degrees  the  character  of  a 
chronic  hypochondriac,  which,  at  all  times  an  unlovely 
character,  is  positively  hateful  to  the  Mtongi  of  an 
African  expedition  battling  with  swamps  and  rain,  with 
a  sickened  caravan;  Zaidi,  a  soldier,  was  critically  ill 
with  the  small-pox  ;  the  kichuma-chuma,  "  little  irons," 
had  hold  of  Bombay  across  the  chest,  rendering  him 
the  most  useless  of  the  unserviceables ;  Mabruk  Saleem, 
a  youth  of  lusty  frame,  following  the  example  of 
Bombay,  laid  himself  down  on  the  marshy  ground, 
professing,  while  imitating  a  man  who  vomits,  his  total 
inability  to  breast  the  Makata  swamp,  but  a  plaited 
thong  vigorously  laid  across  his  naked  shoulders  ex- 
purged  the  seeming  nausea  from  the  stomach ;  Abdul 
Kader,  the  Hindi  tailor  and  adventurer — the  weakliest 
of  mortal  bodies — was  ever  ailing  for  lack  of  "  force,"  as 
he  expressed  it  in  French,  i.e.  "  strength,"  ever  indis- 
posed to  work,  shiftless,  mock-sick,  but  ever  hungry. 
"  Oh !  God,"  was  the  cry  of  my  tired  soul,  u  were  all 
the  men  of  my  Expedition  like  this  man  I  should  be 


140 


HO  W  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


compelled  to  return,  but  not  before  taking  summary 
vengeance  upon  the  whole  of  them."  The  virtue  of  a 
good  whip  was  well  tested  by  me  on  this  day,  and 
Abdul  Kader  (and  may  he  carry  the  tale  to  all  his  kith, 
kin  and  race),  one  may  make  sure,  will  never  accom- 
pany a  white  man  again  to  Africa.  Solomon  was  wise 
perhaps  from  inspiration,  perhaps  from  observation ;  I 
was  becoming  wise  by  experience,  and  I  was  compelled 
to  observe  that  when  mud  and  wet  sapped  the  physical 
energy  of  the  lazily-inclined,  a  dog-whip  became  their 
backs,  restoring  them  to  a  sound — sometimes  to  an 
extravagant  activity. 

For  thirty  miles  from  *  our  camp  was  the  Makata 
plain,  an  extensive  swamp.  The  water  was  on  an 
average  one  foot  in  depth  ;  in  some  places  we  plunged 
into  holes  three,  four,  and  even  five  feet  deep.  Plash, 
splash,  plash,  splash,  were  the  only  sounds  we  heard 
from  the  commencement  of  the  march  until  we  found 
the  bomas  occupying  the  only  dry  spots  along  the 
line  of  march.  This  kind  of  work  continued  for  two 
days,  until  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Rudewa  river, 
another  powerful  stream  with  banks  brimful  of  rushing 
rain-water.  Crossing  a  branch  of  the  Rudewa,  and 
emerging  from  the  dank  reedy  grass  crowding  the 
western  bank,  the  view  consisted  of  an  immense  sheet 
of  water  topped  by  clumps  of  grass  tufts  and  foliage  of 
thinly  scattered  trees,  bounded  ten  or  twelve  miles  off 
by  the  eastern  front  of  the  Usagara  mountain  range. 
The  acme  of  discomfort  and  vexation  was  realised  on 
the  five-mile  march  from  the  Rudewa  branch.  As 
myself  and  the  Wanguana  appeared  with  the  loaded 
donkeys,  the  pagazis  were  observed  huddled  on  a 
mound.  When  asked  if  the  mound  was  the  camp,  they 
replied  "No/'    "Why,  then,  do  you  stop  here?" — 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UGOOO. 


141 


"  Ugh  !  water  plenty  !  !  "  One  drew  a  line  across  his 
loins  to  indicate  the  depth  of  water  before  us,  another 
drew  a  line  across  his  chest,  another  across  his  throat, 
another  held  his  hand  over  his  head,  by  which  he 
meant  that  we  should  have  to  swim.  Swim  five  miles 
through  a  reedy  marsh  !  It  was  impossible  ;  it  was 
also  impossible  that  such  varied  accounts  could  all  be 
correct.  Without  hesitation,  therefore,  I  ordered  the 
Wanguana  to  proceed  with  the  animals.  After  three 
hours  of  splashing  through  four  feet  of  water  we 
reached  dry  land,  and  had  traversed  the  swamp  of 
Makata.  But  not  without  the  swamp  with  its  horrors 
having  left  a  durable  impression  upon  our  minds  ;  no 
one  was  disposed  to  forget  its  fatigues,  nor  the  nausea 
of  travel  which  it  almost  engendered.  Subsequently, 
we  bad  to  remember  its  passage  still  more  vividly,  and 
to  regret  that  we  had  undertaken  the  journey  during 
the  Masika  season,  when  the  animals  died  from  this  date 
by  twos  and  threes,  almost  every  day,  until  but  five 
sickly  worn-out  beasts  remained  ;  when  the  Wanguana, 
soldiers,  and  pagazis  sickened  of  diseases  innumerable ; 
when  I  myself  was  finally  compelled  to  lie  a-bed  with 
an  attack  of  acute  dysentery  which  brought  me  to  the 
verge  of  the  grave.  I  suffered  more,  perhaps,  than  I 
might  have  done  had  I  taken  the  proper  medicine, 
but  my  over-confidence  in  that  compound,  called 
"  Collis  Brown's  Chlorodyne,"  delayed  the  cure  which 
ultimately  resulted  from  a  judicious  use  of  Dover's 
powder.  In  no  one  single  case  of  diarrhoea  or  acute 
dysentery  had  this  "  Chlorodyne,"  about  which  so  much 
has  been  said  and  written,  any  effect  of  lessening  the 
attack  whatever,  though  I  used  three  bottles.  To  the 
dysentery  contracted  during  the  transit  of  the  Makata 
swamp,  only  two  fell  victims,  and  those  were  a  pagazi 


142 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and  my  poor  little  dog  "  Omar,"  my  companion  from 
India. 

The  only  tree  of  any  prominence  in  the  Makata 
valley  was  the  Palmyra  palm  (Borassus  flabelliformis), 
and  this  grew  in  some  places  in  numbers  sufficient  to  be 
called  a  grove  ;  the  fruit  was  not  ripe  while  we  passed, 
otherwise  we  might  have  enjoyed  it  as  a  novelty.  The 
other  vegetation  consisted  of  the  several  species  of 
thorn  bush,  and  the  graceful  parachute-topped  and 
ever-green  mimosa. 

The  4th  of  May  we  were  ascending  a  gentle  slope 
towards  the  important  village  of  Rehenneko,  the  first 
village  near  to  which  we  encamped  in  Usagara.  It 
lay  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  its  plenitude  and 
mountain  air  promised  us  comfort  and  health.  It 
was  a  square,  compact  village,  surrounded  by  a 
thick  wall  of  mud,  enclosing  cone-topped  huts,  roofed 
with  bamboo  and  holcns-stalks  ;  and  contained  a  popu- 
lation of  about  a  thousand  souls.  It  has  several 
wealthy  and  populous  neighbours,  whose  inhabitants 
are  independent  enough  in  their  manner,  but  not 
unpleasantly  so.  The  streams  are  of  the  purest  water, 
fresh,  and  pellucid  as  crystal,  bubbling  over  round 
pebbles  and  clean  gravel,  with  a  music  delightful  to 
hear  to  the  traveller  in  search  of  such  a  sweetly 
potable  element. 

The  bamboo  grows  to  serviceable  size  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Eehenneko,  strong  enough  for  tent  and 
baughy  poles ;  and  in  numbers  sufficient  to  supply  an 
army.  The  mountain  slopes  are  densely  wooded  with 
trees  that  might  supply  very  good  timber  for  building 
purposes. 

We  rested  four  days  at  this  pleasant  spot,  to  recruit 
ourselves,  and  to  allow  the  sick  and  feeble  time  to 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


148 


recover  a  little  before  testing  their  ability  in  the  ascent 
of  the  Usagara  mountains. 

The  8th  of  May  saw  ns  with  our  terribly  jaded 
men  and  animals  winding  up  the  steep  slopes  of  the 
first  line  of  hills ;  gaining  the  summit  of  which  we 
obtained  a  view  remarkably  grand,  which  exhibited  as 
in  a  master  picture  the  broad  valley  of  the  Makata, 
with  its  swift  streams  like  so  many  cords  of  silver,  as 
the  sunshine  played  on  the  unshadowed  reaches  of 
water,  with  its  thousands  of  graceful  palms  adding  not 
a  little  to  the  charm  of  the  scene,  with  the  great  wall 
of  the  Uruguru  and  Uswapanga  mountains  dimly  blue 
but  sublime  in  their  loftiness  and  immensity — forming 
a  fit  background  to  such  an  extensive  far-embracing 
prospect. 

Turning  our  faces  west,  we  found  ourselves  in  a 
mountain  world,  fold  rising  above  fold,  peak  behinc. 
peak,  cone  jostling  cone  ;  away  to  the  north,  to  the 
west,  to  the  south,  the  mountain  tops  rolled  like  so  many 
vitrified  waves ;  not  one  adust  or  arid  spot  was  visible 
in  all  this  scene.  The  diorama  had  no  sudden  changes 
or  striking  contrasts,  for  a  universal  forest  of  green 
trees  clothed  every  peak,  cone,  and  summit. 

To  the  men  this  first  day's  march  through  the 
mountain  region  of  Usagara  was  an  agreeable  interlude 
after  the  successive  journey  over  the  flats  and  heavy 
undulations  of  the  maritime  region,  but  to  the  loaded 
and  enfeebled  animals  it  was  most  trying.  We  were 
minus  two  by  the  time  we  had  arrived  at  our  camp,  but 
seven  miles  from  Rehenneko,  our  first  instalment  of  the 
debt  we  owed  to  Makata.  Water,  sweet  and  clear,  was 
abundant  in  the  deep  hollows  of  the  mountains,  flowing 
sometimes  over  beds  of  solid  granite,  sometimes  over  a 
rich  red  sandstone,  whose  soft  substance  was  soon  pene- 


144 


ROW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


trated  by  the  aqueous  element,  and  whose  particles  were 
swept  away  constantly  to  enrich  the  valley  below ;  and 
in  other  ravines  it  dashed,  and  roared  miniature  thunder, 
as  it  leapt  over  granite  boulders  and  quartz  rock. 

The  9th  of  May,  after  another  such  an  up-and-down 
course,  ascending  hills  and  descending  into  the  twilight 
depths  of  deepening  valleys,  we  came  suddenly  upon 
the  Mukondokwa,  and  its  narrow  pent-up  valley 
crowded  with  rank  reedy  grass,  cane,  and  thorny 
bushes ;  and  rugged  tamarisk  which  grappled  for  exist- 
ence with  monster  convolvuli,  winding  their  coils 
around  their  trunks  with  such  tenacity  and  strength, 
that  the  tamarisk  seemed  grown  but  for  their  support. 

The  valley  was  barely  a  quarter  of  a  mile  broad  in 
some  places — at  others  it  widened  to  about  a  mile.  The 
hills  on  either  side  shot  up  into  precipitous  slopes, 
clothed  with  mimosa,  acacia,  and  tamarisk,  enclosing  a 
river  and  valley  whose  curves  and  folds  were  as  various 
as  a  serpent's. 

Shortly  after  debouching  into  the  Mukondokwa 
valley,  we  struck  the  road  traversed  by  Captains  Burton 
and  Speke  in  1857,  between  Mbumi  and  Kacletamare 
(the  latter  place  should  be  called  Misonghi,  Kacletamare 
being  but  the  name  of  a  chief).  After  following  the 
left  bank  of  the  Mukondokwa,  during  which  our  route 
diverged  to  every  point  from  south-east  to  west,  north 
and  north-east,  for  about  an  hour,  we  came  to  the  ford. 
Beyond  the  ford,  a  short  half-hour's  march,  we  came  to 
Kiora. 

At  this  filthy  village  of  Kiora,  which  was  well-grounded 
with  goat-dung,  and  peopled  with  a  wonderful  number  of 
children  for  a  hamlet  that  did  not  number  twenty 
families,  with  a  hot  sun  pouring  on  the  limited  open 
space,  with  a  fury  that  exceeded  128°  Fahrenheit ;  which 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


145 


swarmed  with  flies,  and  insects  of  known  and  unknown 
species ;  I  found,  as  I  had  been  previously  informed, 
the  third  caravan,  which  had  started  out  of  Bagamoyo 
so  well  fitted  and  supplied.  The  leader,  who  was  no 
other  than  the  white  man  Farquhar,  was  sick  a-bed 
with  swollen  legs  (Bright's  disease,  engendered  by 
general  debauchery),  unable  and  perhaps  not  a  little 
unwilling  to  move,  knowing  the  condition  into  which 
he  had  brought  his  caravan. 

While  sick  with  dysentery  at  Rehenneko  I  had  re- 
quested Shaw  to  write  to  Farquhar  to  obtain  exact 
information  respecting  the  state  of  his  caravan,  which 
had  been  reported  to  me  by  passing  caravans  as  being 
most  pitiable.  Shaw  accordingly  nerved  himself  to  the 
production  of  the  following  epistle  : — 

"  Dear  Farquhar, 

"  At  the  request  of  Mr.  Stanley  I  write  you  to 
asertain  all  your  misfortunes,  what  quanterty  of  clorth 
you  have  expened  and  how  much  you  have  left,  how 
many  donkeys  is  dead,  and,  in  fact,  all  the  perticlurs. 
How  many  pagazis  have  you  discharged,  and  how 
many  have  you  with  you.  What  have  you  done  with 
all  the  baggage  the  donkeys  had,  and  who  is  your 
parangozery.  What  is  the  matter  with  you.  What 
is  the  matter  with  Jacko,  and  what  was  the  matter  with 
the  donkeys  that  dide.  What  sort  of  baggage  have 
you  left  in  your  camp.  Send  Sarmean  back  to-morrow 
morning  in  return  with  Willimingo  and  Barickca,  tnd 
the  full  reply  to  the  above  questions.  In  two  days  we 
shall  be  up  with  you." 

However  ungrammatical  and  misspelt  the  above  note 
is,  it  is  far  more  intelligible  to  me,  and  I  believe  will 
be  to  the  reader,  than  the  reply  which  was  received 

L 


146 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


from  the  leader  of  the  third  caravan,  worded  as 
follows : — 

"  Dear  Mr.  Stanley, 

"  Everything  is  all  right,  but  I  have  used  a 
good  bit  of  cloth  to  pay  pagazis ;  one  bale  is  entirely 

finished.    The  Kirangozi  was  a  rascal,  I  took 

his  cloth  from  him  and  drove  him  from  camp.  He 
said  he  would  come  to  you,  I  made  Kiranga  Kirangozi 
and  gave  him  ten  doti.  Food  is  very  dear  here ;  only 
two  chickens  for  a  shukka,  and  one  goat  costs  five  doti, 
and  I  can't  get  out  of  here. 

"  I  hired  six  pagazis  yesterday  and  sent  them  on  with 
Uredi.  Jooma  said  he  was  starving,  so  I  gave  him  two 
bales  of  Merikani.  He  says  he  will  wait  for  you  in 
Ugogo.  Jacko  has  been  sick,  I  don't  know  with  what, 
and  he  can't  do  anything  for  me.  Welly mingoe  is  my 
cook  now.  Can  you  send  me  some  sugar  ?  If  you  want 
any  help  I  shall  send  my  pagazis  to  help  you  for  it  is 
between  where  you  are  and  this  place  that  nine  of  my 
donkeys  died,  and  I  have  only  one  left.  All  the  Kaniki 
is  finished,  but  I  have  got  some  more  Merikani  left. 

"  Give  my  respects  to  Mr.  Shaw  and  Selim. 

"  Yours  truly, 

"  W.  L.  Farquhar." 

This  was  the  precious  response  I  received  to  an 
anxious  inquiry  as  to  the  condition  of  himself  and 
caravan.  Had  the  man  been  stark  crazy  he  could 
hardly  have  indited  anything  better  calculated  to 
confuse  one. 

In  the  first  line  he  states  "  Everything  is  all  right," 
when,  according  to  the  words  immediately  following, 
everything  appears  to  me  to  be  wrong.    He  turns  the 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UGOOO. 


147 


Kirangozi  away  for  a  personal  pique ;  and  to  a  Mgwana 
soldier  of  mine  detailed  to  accompany  the  fifth  caravan, 
Jumah  by  name,  he  gives,  upon  his  mere  asking,  two 
bales  of  Merikani,  worth  $150  in  gold,  containing  150 
doti,  a  sufficient  supply  to  feed  a  caravan  of  fifty  men 
from  Bagamoyo  to  Unyanyembe.  "  All  his  Kaniki  is 
finished"  also,  which  shows  great  carelessness.  In 
short,  the  letter  is  incomprehensible  to  me  unless  the 
man  Farquhar  is  hydrophobially  insane,  which  fact  I 
made  haste  to  ascertain  as  I  entered  the  enclosure  of 
Kiora,  and  perceived  his  tent  pitched  on  a  heap  of 
goat-muck. 

As  he  heard  my  voice,  Farquhar  staggered  out  of  his 
tent,  as  changed  from  my  spruce  mate  who  started  from 
Bagamoyo  as  if  he  had  been  expressly  fattened  by  the 
Wabembe  of  the  Tanganika,  as  we  do  geese  and 
turkeys  for  the  Christmas  dinner — as  interesting  a 
case  of  hypertrophy  as  Barnum's  fat  woman.  I  saw 
and  regarded,  not  without  wonder,  the  bloated  cheeks 
and  neck  of  my  man  Farquhar.  His  legs  were  also 
donderous,  elephantine,  since  his  leg-illness  was  of  ele- 
phantiasis, or  dropsy.  His  face  was  of  a  deathly  pallor; 
but  that  was  easily  accounted  for  afterwards,  when  his 
men  informed  me  that  he  had  not  been  out  of  his  tent 
for  two  weeks.  He  had  made  free  use  of  the  soldiers 
and  pagazis,  as  the  least  of  his  wants  required  their 
services.  In  return,  he  paid  them  with  a  goat  each  day, 
when  a  goat  cost  five  doti.  Sometimes  he  changed  the 
gift  for  chickens. 

A  breezy  hill,  overlooking  the  village  of  Kiora,  was 
chosen  by  me  for  my  camping-ground,  and  as  soon 
as  the  tents  were  pitched,  the  animals  attended  to,  and 
a  boma  made  of  thorn  bushes,  Farquhar  was  carried  up 
by  four  men  into  my  tent.    Upon  being  questioned  as 

l  2 


148 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  the  cause  of  his  illness,  he  said  he  did  not  know 
what  had  caused  it.  He  had  no  pain,  he  thought,  any- 
where. I  asked,  "  Do  you  not  sometimes  feel  pain  on 
the  right  side  ?"— "  Yes,  I  think  I  do;  but  I  don't 
know." — "  Nor  over  the  left  nipple  sometimes — a  quick 
throbbing,  with  a  shortness  of  breath  ?" — "  Yes_,  I  think 
I  have.  I  know  I  breathe  quick  sometimes."  He  did 
not  suffer  from  constipation  ;  he  said  his  only  trouble 
was  in  the  legs,  which  were  swollen  to  an  immense  size. 
Though  he  had  the  appetite  of  a  horse,  he  yet  felt  weak 
in  the  legs. 

From  the  scant  information  of  the  disease  and  its 
peculiarities,  as  given  by  Farquhar  himself,  I  could  only 
make  out,  by  studying  a  little  medical  book  I  had  with 
me,  that  "  a  swelling  of  the  legs,  purse,  and  sometimes 
of  the  body,  might  result  from  either  heart,  liver,  or 
kidney  disease."  But,  as  the  bowels  were  quite  the  re- 
verse of  being  sluggish,  I  did  not  know  to  what  to 
ascribe  the  disease,  unless  it  was  to  elephantiasis — a 
disease  most  common  in  Zanzibar  ;  nor  did  I  know  how 
to  treat  it  in  a  man  who  could  not  tell  me  whether  he 
felt  pain  in  his  head  or  in  his  back,  in  his  feet  or  in  his 
chest. 

Having  found  out  that  Farquhar's  illness  did  not 
need  any  immediate  and  paramount  attention  from  me, 
I  set  about  resolving  the  contents  of  that  recondite  note 
he  had  written  to  me  at  Rehenneko,  and  which  had 
exercised  me  so  much  ever  since.  But,  incomprehensible 
as  was  his  note,  Farquhar's  verbal  information  as  to 
the  state  of  the  property  entrusted  to  him  was  tenfold 
more  perplexing,  complicated,  and  enigmatic.  Not  one 
thread  of  his  story  could  be  unravelled  to  suit  a  me- 
thodical mind.  What  he  did  do,  and  what  he  did  not 
do,  what  he  had  expended  on  cloth  and  beads,  and 


May,  1871.J 


TO  UGOGO. 


14$ 


what  he  had  not  expended,  were  so  inextricably 
jumbled  up  together,  that  I  felt  myself  drifting  towards 
helpless  insanity,  in  endeavouring  to  create  some  order 
out  of  the  chaos  of  verbiage.  The  only  way  to  cut 
short  the  difficulty  was  to  personally  overhaul  every 
bale  of  cloth  and  load  of  beads,  and  ascertain,  by 
reference  to  my  account  of  the  third  caravan,  what 
was  missing. 

The  reader  will  perhaps  remember  that  I  have  stated 
that  each  caravan,  before  departing  from  Bagamoyo,  or 
from  any  other  part  of  the  coast  for  the  interior,  must 
be  furnished  with  cloth  and  beads  sufficient  for  four 
months'  subsistence  on  the  road,  independent  of  the 
cloth  set  aside  for  the  tribute  to  be  paid  in  Ugogo,  and 
separate  also  from  the  bales  for  the  carriage  of  which 
the  owner  has  contracted  with  the  pagazis. 

Farquhar's  caravan  was  not  an  exception  to  this 
custom  and  rule ;  but,  being  a  white  man's  caravan,  it 
was  especially  favoured  for  the  leaders  sake.  It  was 
composed  of  23  men  and  10  donkeys,  and  was  supplied 
with  120  doti  Merikani  and  Kaniki,and  35  lbs.  of  mixed 
beads  to  buy  food.  As  there  are  240  shukka  in  120 
doti,  and  as  one  shukka  bought  on  an  average  25  kubaba 
of  grain,  and  as  one  kubaba  was  the  customary  allow- 
ance for  each  man,  it  is  as  self-evident  as  an  axiom  that 
240  shukka  were  sufficient  to  keep  the  caravan  in  grain 
for  eight  months  ;  but  as  the  journey  to  Unyanyembe 
would  not  occupy  120  days,  there  would  be  left  for  the 
white  man  to  buy  little  luxuries,  such  as  chickens,  eggs, 
and  sometimes  a  goat,  120  shukkas  of  good  marketable 
cloth,  and  35  lbs.  of  beads. 

Now  followed  the  examination  of  the  property. 
I  was  anxious  to  see  if  it  corresponded  with  what 
was  written  on  the  list  before  the  departure  of  the 


150 


HOW  J  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


caravan  frbm  Bagamoyo.  The  weighing,  unpacking, 
and  repacking,  occupied  an  hour,  at  the  end  of  which  I 
knew  the  exact  extent  of  the  losses  the  Expedition 
had  incurred  from  the  belly-greed  and  wanton  care- 
lessness of  this  feebly-intellectual  white  man.  Within 
seventy-three  days  he  had  consumed  the  240  shukka 
given  him  for  provisions,  and  1 2  doti  of  colored  cloths ; 
he  had  then  broached  the  bales,  out  of  which  he  had 
abstracted  82  doti,  or  164  shukka,  all  of  which  had 
been  expended  to  supply  his  lust  for  goatmeat,  eggs, 
and  poultry.  Out  of  the  bales  of  cloth  which  had 
been  entrusted  to  him  to  convey  to  Unyanyembe 
there  remained  but  two  whole  bales,  all  the  other  bales 
had  been  expended  to  purchase  goats,  or  paid  out  as 
pagazi  hire,  for  nine  of  his  donkeys  were  dead,  and 
one  was  moribund. 

On  making  out  the  list  of  the  expenditure  of  the 
sixth  caravan,  consisting  of  43  souls  and  17  donkeys  led 
by  myself  for  fifty  days,  1  perceived  it  only  amounted  to 
43  doti,  or  86  shukka,  from  which  I  knew  that  Farquhar 
had  no  excuse  for  the  waste  of  so  much  valuable  cloth. 
"  Set  a  beggar  on  horseback  and  he  will  ride  to  the  devil" 
is  a  proverb  the  truth  of  which  was  manifest  in  this 
case.  I  had  given  him  a  capital  Zanzibar  riding-ass  for 
himself  which  he  had  ridden  to  death.  He  had  never 
condescended  to  dismount  from  the  moment  he  left  one 
camp  until  he  arrived  at  another,  and,  not  knowing 
how  to  ride,  he  had  see-sawed  from  side  to  side  until  the 
poor  animal's  back  was  so  terribly  chafed  that  it  soon 
died.  Had  he  continued  his  journey  to  Unyanyembe 
— how  or  by  what  means  I  know  not — and  continued 
his  extravagant  expenditure,  not  one  shukka  or  one 
pound  of  beads  would  have  been  left.  It  was  therefore 
fortunate  for  me  that  I  overtook  him  at  Kiora ;  though 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


151 


he  was  about  to  prove  a  sore  incumbrance  to  me, 
for  he  was  not  able  to  walk,  and  the  donkey-carriage, 
after  the  rough  experience  of  the  Makata  valley,  was 
failing.  I  could  not  possibly  leave  him  at  Kiora, 
death  would  soon  overtake  him  there ;  but  how  long  I 
could  convey  a  man  in  such  a  state,  through  a  country 
devoid  of  carriage,  was  a  question  to  be  resolved  by 
circumstances. 

On  the  11th  of  May,  the  third  and  fifth  caravans,  now 
united,  followed  up  the  right  bank  of  the  Mukondokwa, 
through  fields  of  holcus,  the  great  Mukondokwa 
ranges  rising  in  higher  altitude  as  we  proceeded  west, 
and  enfolding  us  in  the  narrow  river  valley  round 
about.  We  left  Muniyi  Usagara  on  our  right,  and 
soon  after  found  hill-spurs  athwart  our  road,  which  we 
were  obliged  to  ascend  and  descend. 

A  march  of  eight  miles  from  the  ford  of  Misonghi 
brought  us  to  another  ford  of  the  Mukondokwa,  where 
we  bid  a  long  adieu  to  Burton's  road,  which  led  up  to 
the  Goma  pass  and  up  the  steep  slopes  of  Eubeho.  Our 
road  left  the  right  bank  and  followed  the  left  over 
a  country  quite  the  reverse  of  the  Mukondokwa  valley, 
enclosed  between  mountain  ranges.  Fertile  soils  and 
spontaneous  vegetation  reeking  with  miasma,  and  over- 
powering from  their  odour,  we  had  exchanged  for  a 
drouthy  wilderness  of  aloetic  and  cactaceous  plants, 
where  the  kolquall  and  several  thorn  bushes  grew 
paramount. 

Instead  of  the  tree-clad  heights,  slopes  and  valleys, 
instead  of  cultivated  fields,  we  saw  now  the  confines  ot 
an  uninhabited  wilderness.  The  hill-tops  were  bared 
of  their  bosky  crowns,  and  revealed  their  rocky  natures 
bleached  white  by  rain  and  sun.  Nguru  Peak,  the 
loftiest  of  the  Usagara  cones,  stood  right  shoulder- 


152 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE, 


wards  of  us  as  we  ascended  the  long  slope  of  dun-grey 
soil  which  rose  beyond  the  brown  Mukondokwa  on  the 
left. 

At  the  distance  of  two  miles  from  the  last  ford,  we 
found  a  neat  khambi,  situated  close  to  the  river,  where 
it  first  broke  into  a  furious  rapid. 

The  next  morning  the  caravan  was  preparing  for  the 
march,  when  I  was  informed  that  the  "  Bana  Mdogo  " 
— little  master — Shaw,  had  not  yet  arrived  with  the 
cart,  and  the  men  in  charge  of  it.  Late  the  previous 
night  I  had  despatched  one  donkey  for  Shaw,  who  had 
said  he  was  too  ill  to  walk,  and  another  for  the  load 
that  was  on  the  cart ;  and  had  retired  satisfied  that 
they  would  soon  arrive.  My  conclusion,  when  I  learned 
in  the  morning  that  the  people  had  not  yet  come  in, 
was  that  Shaw  was  not  aware  that  for  five  days  we 
should  have  to  march  through  a  wilderness  totally 
uninhabited.  I  therefore  despatched  Chowpereh,  a 
Mgwana  soldier,  with  the  following  note  to  him  : — 
"  You  will,  upon  receipt  of  this  order,  pitch  the  cart  into 
the  nearest  ravine,  gulley,  or  river,  as  well  as  all  the  extra 
pack  saddles;  and  come  at  once,  for  God's  sake,  for  we 
must  not  starve  here  /" 

One,  two,  three,  and  four  hours  were  passed  by  me  in 
the  utmost  impatience,  waiting,  but  in  vain,  for  Shaw. 
Having  a  long  march  before  us,  I  could  wait  no  longer, 
but  went  to  meet  his  party  myself.  About  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  the  ford  I  met  the  van  of  the  laggards — 
stout,  burly  Chowpereh — and,  0  cartmakers,  listen  !  he 
carried  the  cart  on  his  head — wheels,  shafts,  body,  axle, 
and  all  complete  ;  he  having  found  that  carrying  it  was 
much  easier  than  drawing  it.  The  sight  was  such  a 
damper  to  my  regard  for  it  as  an  experiment,  that 
the  cart  was  wheeled  into  the  depths  of  the  tall  reeds, 


Mat,  1871.] 


TO  UGOOO. 


158 


and  there  left.  The  central  figure  was  Shaw  himself, 
riding  at  a  gait  which  seemed  to  leave  it  doubtful  on  my 
mind  whether  he  or  his  animal  felt  most  sleepy.  Upon 
expostulating  with  him  for  keeping  the  caravan  so  long 
waiting  when  there  was  a  march  on  hand — in  a  most 
peculiar  voice  which  he  always  assumed  when  disposed 
to  be  ugly-tempered — he  said  he  had  done  the  best  he 
could  ;  but  as  I  had  seen  the  solemn  pace  at  which  he 
rode,  I  felt  dubious  about  his  best  endeavours ;  and 
accordingly  requested  him  if  he  could  not  mend  his 
gait,  to  dismount  and  permit  the  donkey  to  proceed  to 
camp,  that  it  might  be  loaded  for  the  march.  Of  course 
there  was  a  little  scene,  but  the  young  European 
Mtongi  of  an  East  African  expedition  must  needs  sup 
with  the  fellows  he  has  chosen. 

We  arrived  at  Madete  at  4  p.m.,  minus  two 
donkeys  which  had  stretched  their  weary  limbs  in 
death.  We  had  crossed  the  Mukondokwa  about  3  p.m., 
and  after  taking  its  bearings  and  course,  I  made  sure 
that  its  rise  took  place  near  a  group  of  mountains  about 
forty  miles  north  by  west  of  Nguru  Peak.  Our  road 
led  W.N.W.,  and  at  this  place  finally  diverged  from 
the  river. 

On  the  14th,  after  a  march  of  seven  miles  over 
hills  whose  sandstone  and  granite  formation  cropped 
visibly  here  and  there  above  the  surface,  whose  stony 
and  dry  aspect  seemed  reflected  in  every  bush  and 
plant,  and  having  gained  an  altitude  of  about  eight 
hundred  feet  above  the  flow  of  the  Mukondokwa,  we 
sighted  the  Lake  of  Ugombo — a  grey  sheet  of  water 
lying  directly  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  from  whose 
summit  we  gazed  at  the  scene.  The  view  was  neither 
beautiful  nor  pretty,  but  what  I  should  call  refreshing ; 
it  afforded  a  pleasant  relief  to  the  eyes  fatigued  from 


154 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


dwelling  on  the  bleak  country  around.  Besides,  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  lake  was  too  tame  to 
call  forth  any  enthusiasm  ;  there  were  no  grandly 
swelling  mountains,  no  smiling  landscapes — nothing 
but  a  dun  brown  peak,  about  one  thousand  feet  high 
above  the  surface  of  the  lake  at  its  western  extremity, 
from  which  the  lake  derived  its  name,  Ugombo ;  nothing 
but  a  low  dun-brown  irregular  range,  running  parallel 
with  its  northern  shore  at  the  distance  of  a  mile ; 
nothing  but  a  low  plain  stretching  from  its  western 
shore  far  away  towards  the  Mpwapwa  Mountains 
and  Marenga  Mkali,  then  apparent  to  us  from  our 
coign  of  vantage,  from  which  extensive  scene  of 
dun-brownness  we  were  glad  to  rest  our  eyes  on  the 
quiet  grey  water  beneath. 

The  outline  of  the  lake  resembles,  in  my  mind,  a 
map  of  England  without  Wales.  Northumberland 
would  represent  very  justly  the  western  end  of  the 
lake,  where  the  hippopotami  sported  in  great  numbers ; 
the  coast  fronting  the  German  Sea,  with  its  bold  bends 
and  inlets,  might  find  a  miniature  parallel  in  the 
northern  shore  of  the  lake  ;  while  the  eastern  side, 
which  was  very  long,  was  almost  the  exact  copy  of 
the  English  coast  as  it  is  outlined  from  Kent  to 
Cornwall. 

Descending  from  the  summit  of  the  range,  which 
bounded  the  lake  east  for  about  four  hundred  feet,  we 
travelled  along  the  northern  shore.  The  time  occupied 
in  the  journey  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  ex- 
tremity was  exactly  one  hour  and  thirty  minutes. 

As  this  side  represents  its  greatest  length,  I  conclude 
that  the  lake  is  three  miles  long  by  two  miles  greatest 
breadth.  The  immediate  shores  of  the  lake  on  all 
sides,  for  at  least  fifty  feet  from  the  water's  edge, 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UOOOO. 


156 


is  one  impassable  morass  nourishing  rank  reeds  and 
rushes,  where  the  hippopotamus'  ponderous  form  has 
crushed  into  watery  trails  the  soft  composition  of  the 
morass  as  he  passes  from  the  lake  on  his  nocturnal 
excursions ;  the  lesser  animals,  such  as  the  "  mhogo  " 
(buffalo),  the  "  punda-terra "  (zebra),  the  "  twiga " 
(giraffe),  the  boar,  the  kudu,  the  hyrax  or  coney,  and 
the  antelope,  come  here  also  to  quench  their  thirst 
by  night.  The  surface  of  the  lake  swarms  with  an 
astonishing  variety  of  water-fowl,  such  as  black  swan, 
duck,  ibis  sacra,  cranes,  pelicans;  and  soaring  above 
on  the  look-out  for  their  prey  are  fish-eagles,  and 
hawks,  while  the  neighbourhood  is  resonant  with  the 
loud  chirps  of  the  guinea-fowls  calling  for  their  young, 
with  the  harsh  cry  of  the  toucan,  the  cooing  of  the 
pigeon,  and  the  "  tu-whit,  tu-whoo  "  of  the  owl.  From 
the  long  grass  in  its  vicinity  also  issue  the  grating  and 
loud  cry  of  the  florican,  woodcock,  and  grouse. 

Being  obliged  to  halt  here  two  days,  owing  to  the 
desertion  of  the  Hindi  cooper  Jako  with  one  of  my 
best  carbines,  I  improved  the  opportunity  of  exploring 
the  northern  and  southern  shores  of  the  lake.  At  the 
rocky  foot  of  a  low,  humpy  hili  on  the  northern  side, 
about  fifteen  feet  above  the  present  surface  of  the 
water  I  detected  in  most  distinct  and  definite  lines 
the  agency  of  waves.  From  its  base  could  be  traced 
clear  to  the  edge  of  the  dank  morass  tiny  lines  of 
comminuted  shell  as  plainly  marked  as  the  small  par- 
ticles which  lie  in  rows  on  a  beach  after  a  receding 
tide.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  wave  marks  on  the 
sandstone  might  have  been  traced  much  higher  by 
one  skilled  in  geology  ;  it  was  only  its  elementary 
character  that  was  visible  to  me.  Nor  do  I  entertain 
the  least  doubt,  after  a  two  days'  exploration  of  the 


156 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


neighbourhood,  especially  of  the  low  plain  at  the  western 
end,  that  this  Lake  of  Ugombo  is  but  the  tail  of  what 
was  once  a  large  body  of  water  equal  in  extent  to  the 
Tanganika  ;  and,  after  ascending  half  way  up  Ugombo 
Peak,  this  opinion  was  confirmed  when  I  saw  the  long- 
depressed  line  of  plain  at  its  base  stretching  towards  the 
Mpwapwa  Mountains  thirty  miles  off,  and  thence  round 
to  Marenga  Mkali,  and  covering  all  that  extensive  sur- 
face of  forty  miles  in  breadth,  and  an  unknown  length. 
A  depth  of  twelve  feet  more,  I  thought,  as  I  gazed  upon 
it,  would  give  the  lake  a  length  of  thirty  miles,  and  a 
breadth  of  ten.  A  depth  of  thirty  feet  would  increase 
its  length  over  a  hundred  miles,  and  give  it  a  breadth 
of  fifty,  for  such  was  the  level  nature  of  the  plain  that 
stretched  west  of  Ugombo,  and  north  of  Marenga 
Mkali.  Besides,  the  water  of  the  lake  partook  slightly 
of  the  bitter  nature  of  the  Matamombo  creek,  distant 
fifteen  miles,  and  in  a  still  lesser  degree  of  that  of 
Marenga  Mkali,  forty  miles  off. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  first  day  of  our  halt  the 
Hindi  cooper  Jako  arrived  in  camp,  alleging  as  an 
excuse,  that  feeling  fatigued  he  had  fallen  asleep  in 
some  bushes  a  few  feet  from  the  roadside.  Having 
been  the  cause  of  our  detention  in  the  hungry  wilder- 
ness of  Ugombo,  I  was  not  in  a  frame  of  mind  to 
forgive  him  ;  so,  to  prevent  any  future  truant  tricks  on 
his  part,  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  including  him 
with  the  chained  gangs  of  runaways. 

Two  more  of  our  donkeys  died,  Farquhar  having 
killed  another  with  his  weight  and  see-sawing  method  of 
riding.  To  prevent  any  of  the  valuable  baggage  being 
left  behind,  I  was  obliged  to  send  Farquhar  off  on  my 
own  riding-ass  to  the  village  of  Mpwapwa,  thirty  miles 
off,  under  charge  of  Mabruki  Burton.    Farquhar  had 


Mat,  1871.J 


TO  UGOQO. 


157 


become  the  laughing-stock  of  the  caravan,  from  his 
utter  helplessness  to  do  anything  for  himself.  He  was 
continually  crying  out  like  a  sick  baby  for  half  a  dozen 
people  to  wait  upon  him,  and  if  they  did  not  happen  to 
understand  the  English  language  in  which  he  addressed 
them,  he  poured  out  a  volley  of  the  most  profane  abuse 
that  ever  offended  the  ears  of  a  Christian  gentleman. 
Jako,  whom  I  detailed  as  cook  for  him  when  despatched 
with  the  third  caravan,  he  had  beaten  and  flogged 
until  he  was  almost  imbecile ;  and  the  Wanguana 
soldiers  were  in  such  dread  of  his  insane  violence,  that 
they  feared  to  go  near  him,  and  consequently  Farquhar's 
voice,  at  no  time  one  of  the  most  harmonious,  was 
heard  night  and  day  at  the  highest  pitch  of  discordant 
querulousness. 

For  six  days  I  bore  with  this  annoyance,  and  had  my 
donkeys  lived,  I  might  have  borne  longer  with  it,  but 
as  they  were  all  feeble,  and  such  a  rider  as  Farquhar 
would  destroy  them  all  one  after  another,  to  save  the 
Expedition  from  ruin,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to 
come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  were  better  for  me,  for 
him,  and  all  concerned,  that  he  be  left  with  some  kind 
chief  of  a  village,  with  a  six  months'  supply  of  cloth 
and  beads  until  he  got  well,  than  that  he  should  ruin 
me,  and  make  his  own  recovery  impossible. 

At  breakfast  time,  on  the  15th,  as  usual,  Farquhar 
and  Shaw  were  invited  to  breakfast.  It  was  evident 
from  their  surly  greeting  to  me,  that  something  was 
the  matter — or  that  something  was  about  to  happen. 
The  faces  of  both  men  wore  a  settled  dark  frown,  which 
seemed  to  bode  no  happy  things  for  me.  They  did  not 
reply  to  the  "  Good  morning "  with  which  I  greeted 
them.  They  turned  their  faces  aside  as  I  looked  at 
them  closely.    It  now  struck  me  that  their  conver 


158 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


sation,  the  animated  tones  of  which  I  had  every  now 
and  then  heard,  was  about  myself. 

I  asked  them  to  take  seats. 

u  Selim,"  said  I,  "  bring  breakfast." 

A  breakfast  consisting  of  a  roast  quarter  of  goat, 
stewed  liver,  half  a  dozen  sweet  potatoes,  some  hot 
pancakes,  and  coffee,  was  served. 

"  Shaw,"  said  I,  "  please  carve,  and  serve  Far- 
quhar." 

"  What  dog's  meat  is  this  ?"  asked  Shaw,  in  the 
most  insolent  way  imaginable. 

"  What  do  you  mean  ?"  I  asked. 

"  I  mean,  sir,  that  it  is  a  downright  shame  the  way 
you  treat  us,"  said  he,  impudently,  turning  his  face 
towards  me.  "  I  mean  to  say,  for  myself,  that  you  arp 
walking  me  too  hard.  I  thought  we  were  to  have 
donkeys  to  ride  every  day.  and  servants  to  wait  upon 
us.  Instead  of  which  I  have  now  got  to  walk  every 
day  through  the  hot  sun,  until  I  feel  as  if  I  would 

rather  be  in  than  in  this  Expedition ;  and 

I  wish  every  soul  in  this  may  sink  to  this 

minute,  so  I  do — there  now  ! " 

"  Listen  to  me,  Shaw,  and  you,  Farquhar.  Ever 
since  you  left  the  coast,  you  have  had  donkeys  to  ride. 
You  have  had  servants  to  wait  upon  you  ;  your  tents 
have  been  set  up  for  you ;  your  meals  have  been  cooked 
for  you  ;  you  have  eaten  with  me  of  the  same  food  I  have 
eaten  ;  you  have  received  the  same  treatment  I  have 
received.  But  now,  all  Farquhar's  donkeys  are  dead  ; 
seven  of  my  own  have  died,  and  I  have  had  to  throw 
away  a  few  things  in  order  to  procure  carriage  for  the 
most  important  goods.  Farquhar  is  too  sick  to  walk, 
he  must  have  a  donkey  to  ride  ;  in  yet  a  few  clays  all 
our  animals  will  be  dead  ;  after  which  I  must  have 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UGOQO. 


15S 


either  over  twenty  more  pagazis  to  take  up  the  goods, 
or  wait  weeks  and  weeks  for  carriage.  Yet,  in  the 
face  of  these  things,  you  can  grumble,  and  curse,  and 
swear  at  me  at  my  own  table.  Have  you  considered 
well  your  position  ?  Do  you  realize  where  you  are  ? 
Do  you  know  that  you  are  ray  servant,  sir,  and  not  my 
companion  ?  " 

"  Servant  be  said  he. 

But  before  Mr.  Shaw  could  finish  his  sentence  he 
had  measured  his  length  on  the  ground. 

"  Is  it  necessary  for  me  to  proceed  further  to  teach 
you  ?"  I  asked. 

44 1  tell  you  what  it  is,  sir,"  he  replied,  raising  him- 
self up.  "  I  think  I  had  better  go  back.  I  have  had 
enough,  and  I  do  not  mean  to  go  any  further  with  you. 
I  ask  my  discharge  from  you." 

"  Oh,  certainly.  What,  who  is  there  ?  Bombay, 
come  here." 

After  Bombay's  appearance  at  the  tent  door,  I  said 
to  him,  "  Strike  this  man's  tent,"  (pointing  to  Shaw.) 
"  He  wants  to  go  back.  Bring  his  gun  and  pistol  here  to 
my  tent,  and. take  this  man  and  his  baggage  two  hundred 
yards  outside  of  the  camp,  and  there  leave  him." 

In  a  few  moments  his  tent  was  down,  his  gun  and 
pistol  in  my  tent,  and  Bombay  returned  to  make  his 
report,  with  four  men  under  arms. 

"  Xow  go,  sir.  You  are  at  perfect  liberty  to  go. 
These  men  will  escort  you  outside  of  the  camp,  and 
there  leave  you  and  your  baggage." 

He  walked  out,  the  men  escorting  him,  and  carrying 
his  baggage  for  him. 

After  breakfast,  I  began  to  explain  to  Farquhar  how 
necessary  it  was  to  me,  to  be  able  to  proceed  ;  that  I 
had  plenty  of  trouble,  without  having  to  think  of  men 


1(30 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


who  were  employed  to  think  of  me  and  their  duties ; 
that  as  he  was  sick,  and  would  be  probably  unable  to 
march  for  a  time,  it  would  be  better  I  should  leave  him 
in  some  quiet  place,  under  the  care  of  a  good  chief, 
who  would,  for  a  consideration,  look  after  him  until  he 
got  well.    To  all  of  which  Farquhar  agreed. 

I  had  barely  finished  speaking  before  Bombay  came 
to  the  tent  door  saying,  "  Mr.  Shaw  would  like  to  speak 
to  you." 

I  went  out  to  the  gate  of  the  camp,  and  there  met 
Shaw,  looking  extremely  penitent  and  ashamed.  He 
commenced  to  ask  my  pardon,  and  began  imploring  me 
to  take  him  back,  and  promising  that  I  should  never 
find  fault  with  him  again. 

I  held  out  my  hand,  saying,  "  Don't  mention  it,  my 
dear  fellow.  Quarrels  occur  in  the  best  of  families. 
Since  you  apologize,  there  is  an  end  to  it." 

That  night,  as  I  was  about  falling  asleep,  I  heard  a 
shot,  and  a  bullet  tore  through  my  tent,  a  few  inches 
above  my  body.  I  snatched  my  revolvers,  and  rushed 
out  of  my  tent,  and  asked  the  men  around  the  wratch- 
fires,  "  Who  shot  ?"  They  had  all  jumped  up,  rather 
startled  at  the  sudden  report. 

"  Who  fired  that  gun  ?" 

One  said,  the  "  Bana  Mdogo  " — little  master. 

I  lit  a  candle,  and  walked  with  it  to  Shaw's  tent. 
"  Shaw,  did  you  fire  r" 

There  was  no  answer.  He  seemed  to  be  asieep,  he 
was  breathing  so  hard. 

"  Shaw  !  Shaw  !  did  you  fire  that  shot  ?" 

"  Eh — eh  ?"  said  he,  suddenly  awaking — ume  ? — me 
fire  ?    I  have  been  asleep." 

My  eye  caught  sight  of  his  gun  lying  near  him.  I 
seized  it — felt  it — put  my  little  finger  down  the  barrel. 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UOOGO. 


167 


The  gun  was  warm ;  my  finger  was  black  from  the 
burnt  gunpowder ! 

"  What  is  this  ?"I  asked,  holding  my  finger  up  ;  "  the 
gun  is  warm.    The  men  tell  me  you  fired." 

"  Ah — yes,"  he  replied  ;  "  I  remember  it.  I  dreamed 
[  saw  a  thief  pass  my  door,  and  I  fired;  Ah — yes — I 
forgot.    I  did  fire.    Why,  what  is  the  matter  ?  " 

"  Oh,  nothing,"  I  said.  "  But  1  would  advise  you  in 
future,  in  order  to  avoid  all  suspicion,  not  to  fire  into 
my  tent,  or  at  least  so  near  me.  I  might  get  hurt,  you 
know,  in  which  case  ugly  reports  would  get  about,  and 
this  perhaps  would  be  disagreeable,  as  you  are  probably 
aware.    Good  night." 

We  all  had  our  thoughts  about  this  matter ;  but  I 
never  uttered  a  word  about  it  to  any  one  until  I  met 
Livingstone.  The  Doctor  embodied  my  suspicions  in 
the  words,  "  He  intended  murder  ! " 

But  what  a  clumsy  way  to  murder  !  Surely,  had  he 
done  so,  my  own  men  would  have  punished  him  as  the 
crime  deserved.  A  thousand  better  opportunities  than 
this  would  be  presented  in  a  month's  march.  I  can 
only  account  for  it  by  supposing  he  was  momentarily 
insane. 

The  16th  of  May  saw  us  journeying  over  the  plain 
which  lies  between  Ugombo  and  Mpwapwa,  skirting 
close,  at  intervals,  a  low  range  of  trap-rock,  out  of  which 
had  become  displaced  by  some  violent  agency  several 
immense  boulders.  On  its  slopes  grew  the  kolquall  to 
a  size  which  I  had  not  seen  in  Abyssinia.  In  the  plain 
grew  baobab,  and  immense  tamarind,  and  a  variety  of 
thorn. 

Within  five  hours  from  Ugombo  the  mountain  range 
deflected  towards  the  north-east,  while  we  continued  on 
a  north-westerly  course,  heading  for  the  lofty  mountain- 

M 


162 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


line  of  the  Mpwapwa.  To  our  left  towered  to  the  blue 
clouds  the  gigantic  Rubeho.  The  adoption  of  this  new 
road  to  Unyanyembe  by  which  we  were  travelling  was 
now  explained — we  were  enabled  to  avoid  the  passes 
and  stiff  steeps  of  Rubeho,  and  had  nothing  worse  to 
encounter  than  a  broad  smooth  plain,  which  sloped 
gently  to  Ugogo. 

After  a  march  of  fifteen  miles  we  camped  at  a  dry 
mtoni,  called  Matamombo,  celebrated  for  its  pools  of 
bitter  water  of  the  color  of  ochre.  Monkeys  and  rhino- 
ceroses, besides  kudus,  steinboks,  and  antelopes,  were 
numerous  in  the  vicinity.  At  this  camp  my  little  dog 
"  Omar "  died  of  inflammation  of  the  bowels,  almost 
on  the  threshold  of  the  country — Ugogo — where  his 
faithful  watchfulness  would  have  been  invaluable  to  me. 

The  next  day's  march  was  also  fifteen  miles  in 
length,  through  one  interminable  jungle  of  thorn- 
bushes.  Within  two  miles  of  the  camp,  the  road  led  up 
a  small  river  bed,  broad  as  an  avenue,  clear  to  the 
khambi  of  Mpwapwa,  which  was  situated  close  to  a 
number  of  streams  of  the  purest  water. 

The  following  morning  found  us  much  fatigued  after 
the  long  marches  from  Ugombo,  and  generally  disposed 
to  take  advantage  of  the  precious  luxuries  Mpwapwa 
offered  to  caravans  fresh  from  the  fly-plagued  lands  ol 
the  Waseguhha  and  Wadoe.  Sheikh  Thani — clever  but 
innocently-speaking  old  Arab — was  encamped  under 
the  grateful  umbrage  of  a  huge  Mtamba  sycamore,  and 
had  been  regaling  himself  with  fresh  milk,  luscious 
mutton,  and  rich  bullock  humps,  ever  since  his  arrival 
here,  two  days  before ;  and,  as  he  informed  me,  it  did 
not  suit  his  views  to  quit  such  a  happy  abundance  so 
soon  for  the  saline  nitrous  water  of  Marenga  Mkali, 
with  its  several  terekezas,  and  manifold  disagreeables 


Mat,  1871.] 


TO  UOOGO. 


163 


"  No  !"  said  he  to  me,  emphatically,  "  better  stop  here 
two  or  three  days,  give  your  tired  animals  some  rest ; 
collect  all  the  pagazis  you  can,  fill  your  inside  with 
fresh  milk,  sweet  potatoes,  beef,  mutton,  ghee,  honey, 
beans,  matama,  maweri,  and  nuts; — then,  Inshallah  ! 
wo  shall  go  together  through  Ugogo  without  stopping 
anywhere."  As  the  advice  tallied  accurately  with  my 
own  desires  and  keen  appetite  for  the  good  things  he 
named,  he  had  not  long  to  wait  for  my  assent  to  his 
counsel.  "  Ugogo,"  continued  he,  "  is  rich  with  milk 
and  honey — rich  in  flour,  beans,  and  almost  every  eat- 
able thing ;  and,  Inshallah !  before  another  week  is 
gone  we  shall  be  in  Ugogo !" 

I  had  heard  from  passing  caravans  so  many  extremely 
favourable  reports  respecting  Ugogo  and  its  productions 
that  it  appeared  to  me  a  very  Land  of  Promise,  and  I  was 
most  anxious  to  refresh  my  jaded  stomach  with  some  of 
the  precious  esculents  raised  in  Ugogo  ;  but  when  I 
heard  that  Mpwapwa  also  furnished  some  of  those  deli- 
cate eatables,  and  good  things,  most  of  the  morning 
hours  were  spent  in  inducing  the  slow-witted  people  to 
part  with  them ;  and  when,  finally,  eggs,  milk,  honey, 
mutton,  ghee,  ground  matama  and  beans  had  been  col- 
lected in  sufficient  quantities  to  produce  a  respectable 
meal,  my  keenest  attention  and  best  culinary  talents 
were  occupied  for  a  couple  of  hours  in  converting  this 
crude  supply  into  a  breakfast  which  should  be  ac- 
cepted by  and  befit  a  stomach  at  once  fastidious  and 
famished,  such  as  mine  was.  The  subsequent  healthy 
digestion  of  it  proved  my  endeavours  to  have  been 
eminently  successful.  At  the  termination  of  this 
eventful  day,  the  following  remark  was  jotted  down  in 
my  diary  :  "  Thank  God  !  After  fifty-seven  days  of 
living  upon  matama  porridge  and  tough  goat,  I  have 

M  2 


164 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


enjoyed  with  unctuous  satisfaction  a  real  breakfast  and 
dinner.*' 

It  was  in  one  of  the  many  small  villages  which  are 
-situated  upon  the  slopes  of  the  Mpwapwa  that  I  found 
a  refuge  and  a  home  for  Farquhar  until  he  should  be 
enabled  by  restored  health  to  start  to  join  us  at  Unyan- 
yembe. 

Food  was  plentiful  and  of  sufficient  variety  to  suit 
the  most  fastidious, — cheap  also,  much  cheaper  than 
we  had  experienced  for  many  a  day.  Leucole,  the 
chief  of  the  village,  with  whom  I  made  arrangements 
for  Farquhar's  protection  and  comfort,  was  a  little  old 
man  of  mild  eye  and  very  pleasing  face,  and  on  being 
informed  that  I  intended  to  leave  the  Musungu  entirely 
under  his  charge,  suggested  that  I  should  appoint  some 
man  in  my  employ  to  wait  on  him,  and  interpret  his 
wishes  to  his  people.  I  had  thought  of  this  further 
charge  which  Farquhar's  illness  might  impose  on  me, 
but  had  hoped  that  Leucole  would  have  relieved  me  of 
this  for  extra  payment.  The  time,  however,  which  had 
elapsed  between  Farquhar's  arrival  and  our  own,  had 
been  enough  to  prove  to  the  chief  his  utter  inability  to 
minister  to  the  wants  of  a  man  like  Farquhar,  who  per- 
sisted in  calling  for  the  least  thing  in  modern  Anglo- 
Saxon  instead  of  Kisagara  or  Kisawahili,  and  who, 
when  not  understood,  would  first  roundly  curse  the 
natives  in  English,  and  then,  when  he  found  that  his 
cursing  was  of  no  avail,  would  relapse  into  stubborn  and 
fierce  silence.  No  amount  of  money  would  suffice  to 
bribe  Leucole  to  undertake  such  a  charge  without  an 
interpreter.  It  was  of  no  use  to  mourn  my  folly  in 
taking  such  a  man  as  Farquhar  on  the  Expedition  :  he 
was  in  the  interior  of  Africa  and  sick  ;  the  duty  devolved 
on  me  to  see  that  he  was  cared  for.    Accordingly  I  con- 


May,  187].] 


TO  UGOGO. 


166 


suited  with  Bombay  as  to  what  man  could  best  be 
spared  to  stop  with  Farqubar.  To  my  suprise,  Bombay 
said,  "  Oh !  master,  have  you  brought  us  to  Africa  to 
throw  us  away  like  this  ?  We  signed  no  contract  to 
stop  behind,  but  to  go  with  you  to  Ujiji,  Ukerewe,  or 
Cairo.  If  you  tell  one  of  the  soldiers  to  stop,  he  will 
obey  you  until  you  are  gone— he  will  then  run  away. 
No,  no,  master,  it  will  not  do  !  "  Despite  Bombay's 
assertion — though  there  was  no  reason  to  doubt  his 
word — I  inquired  of  each  man  personally  whether  he 
would  be  willing  to  stay  behind,  and  wait  upon  the  sick 
Musungu. 

From  each  man  I  received  an  answer  in  the  negative, 
delivered  most  resolutely,  and  their  reason  they  stated 
to  be  the  violent  conduct  of  the  Musungu  towards  the 
three  soldiers  detailed  to  accompany  his  caravan  from 
Bagamoyo.  They  were  afraid  of  him,  he  damned 
them  so  on  all  occasions ;  and  Ulimengo  mimicked  him 
so  faithfully,  yet  so  ludicrously,  that  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  abstain  from  laughing.  As,  however,  the 
sick  man  absolutely  needed  some  one  to  attend  him,  I 
was  compelled  to  use  my  authority,  and,  as  Jako  was 
the  only  one  who  could  speak  English,  except  Bombay 
and  Selim  my  Arab  interpreter,  Jako,  despite  his  pro- 
testations and  prayers,  was  appointed,  and  the  chief 
Leucole  was  satisfied.  Six  months'  provisions  of  white 
beads,  Merikani  and  Kaniki  cloth,  together  with  two 
doti  of  handsome  cloth  to  serve  as  a  present  to  Leucole 
after  his  recovery,  were  taken  to  Farqubar  by  Bombay, 
together  with  a  Starr's  carbine,  300  rounds  of  cartridge, 
a  set  of  cooking  pots,  and  3  lbs.  of  tea. 

Abdullah  bin  Nasib,  whom  I  found  encamped  here 
with  five  hundred  pagazis,  and  a  train  of  Arab 
and  Wasawahili  satellites,  who  revolved  around  his 


166 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


importance,  treated  me  in  somewhat  the  same  manner 
that  Hamed  bin  Sulayman  treated  Speke  at  Kasenge 
Followed  by  his  satellites,  he  came  (a  tall  nervous- 
looking  man,  of  fifty  or  thereabouts)  to  see  me  in  my 
camp,  and  asked  me  if  I  wished  to  purchase  donkeys. 
As  all  my  animals  were  either  sick  or  moribund,  1 
replied  very  readily  in  the  affirmative,  upon  which  he 
graciously  said  he  would  sell  me  as  many  as  I  wanted, 
and  for  payment  I  could  give  him  a  draft  on  Zanzibar. 
I  thought  him  a  very  considerate  and  kind  person, 
fully  justifying  the  encomiums  lavished  on  him  in 
Burton's  6  Lake  Regions  of  Central  Africa,'  and  accord- 
ingly I  treated  him  with  the  consideration  due  to  so 
great  and  good  a  man.  The  morrow  came,  and  with  it 
went  Abdullah  bin  Nasib,  or  "  Kisesa,"  as  he  is  called 
by  the  Wanyamwezi,  with  all  his  pagazis,  his  train 
of  followers,  and  each  and  every  one  of  his  donkeys, 
towards  Bagamoyo,  without  so  much  as  giving  a 
"  quahary,"  or  good-bye. 

At  this  place  there  are  generally  to  be  found  from 
ten  to  thirty  pagazis  awaiting  up-caravans.  I  was 
fortunate  enough  to  secure  twelve  good  people,  who, 
upon  my  arrival  at  Unyanyembe,  without  an  exception, 
voluntarily  engaged  themselves  as  carriers  to  Ujiji. 
With  the  formidable  marches  of  Marenga  Mkali  in 
front,  I  felt  thankful  for  this  happy  windfall,  which 
resolved  the  difficulties  I  had  been  anticipating ;  for 
I  had  but  ten  donkeys  left,  and  four  of  these  were  so 
enfeebled  that  they  were  worthless  as  baggage  animals. 

Mpwapwa — so  called  by  the  Arabs,  who  have 
managed  to  corrupt  almost  every  native  word — is 
called  44  Mbambwa  "  by  the  Wasagara.  It  is  a  moun- 
tain range  rising  over  6,000  feet  above  the  sea,  bounding 
on  the  north  the  extensive  plain  which  commences  at 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UOOOO. 


167 


Ugombo  lake,  and  on  the  east  that  part  of  the  plain 
which  is  called  Marenga  Mkali,  which  stretches  away 
beyond  the  borders  of  Uhumba.  Opposite  Mpwapwa, 
at  the  distance  of  thirty  miles  or  so,  rises  the  Anak 
peak  of  Rubeho,  with  several  other  ambitious  and  tall 
brethren  cresting  long  lines  of  rectilinear  scarps,  which 
ascend  from  the  plain  of  Ugombo  and  Marenga  Mkali 
as  regularly  as  if  they  had  been  chiselled  out  by  the 
hands  of  generations  of  masons  and  stonecutters. 

Upon  looking  at  Mpwapwa's  greenly-tinted  slopes, 
dark  with  many  a  densely-foliaged  tree ;  its  many  rills 
flowing  sweet  and  clear,  nourishing  besides  thick 
patches  of  gum  and  thorn  bush,  giant  sycamore  and 
parachute-topped  mimosa,  and  permitting  my  imagi- 
nation to  picture  sweet  views  behind  the  tall  cones 
above,  I  was  tempted  to  brave  the  fatigue  of  an  ascent 
to  the  summit.  Nor  was  my  love  for  the  picturesque 
disappointed.  One  sweep  of  the  eyes  embraced  hun- 
dreds of  square  miles  of  plain  and  mountain,  from 
Ugombo  Peak  away  to  distant  Ugogo,  and  from 
Rubeho  and  Ugogo  to  the  dim  and  purple  pasture 
lands  of  the  wild,  untameable  Wahumba.  The  plain 
of  Ugombo  and  its  neighbour  of  Marenga  Mkali, 
apparently  level  as  a  sea,  was  dotted  here  and  there 
with  "  hillocks  dropt  in  Nature's  careless  haste,"  which 
appeared  like  islands  amid  th  s  un  and  green  expanse. 
Where  the  jungle  was  dense  the  color  was  green,  alter- 
nating with  dark  brown ;  where  the  plain  appeared 
denuded  of  bush  and  brake  it  had  a  whity-brown  ap- 
pearance, on  which  the  passing  clouds  now  and  again 
cast  their  deep  shadows.  Altogether  this  side  of  the 
picture  was  not  inviting ;  it  exhibited  too  plainly  the 
true  wilderness  in  its  sternest  aspect ;  but  perhaps  the 
knowledge  that  in  the  bosom  of  the  vast  plain  before 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


me  there  was  not  one  drop  of  water  but  was  bitter  as 
nitre,  and  undrinkable  as  urine,  prejudiced  me  against 
it.  The  hunter  might  consider  it  a  paradise,  for  in  its 
depths  were  all  kinds  of  game  to  attract  his  keenest 
instincts ;  but  to  the  mere  traveller  it  had  a  stern  out- 
look. Nearer,  however,  to  the  base  of  the  Mpwapwa 
the  aspect  of  the  plain  altered.  At  first,  the  jungle 
thinned,  openings  in  the  wood  appeared,  then  wide 
and  naked  clearings,  then  extensive  fields  of  the  hardy 
holcus,  Indian  corn,  and  maweri  or  bajri,  with  here 
and  there  a  square  tembe  or  village.  Still  nearer  ran 
thin  lines  of  fresh  young  grass,  great  trees  surrounded 
a  patch  of  alluvial  meadow.  A  broad  river-bed,  con- 
taining several  rivulets  of  water,  ran  through  the 
thirsty  fields,  conveying  the  vivifying  element  which 
in  this  part  of  Usagara  was  so  scarce  and  precious. 
Down  to  the  river-bed  sloped  the  Mpwapwa,  roughened 
in  some  places  by  great  boulders  of  basalt,  or  by  rock 
masses,  which  had  parted  from  a  precipitous  scarp, 
where  clung  the  kolquall  with  a  sure  hold,  drawing 
nourishment  where  every  other  green  thing  failed ; 
clad  in  others  by  the  hardy  mimosa,  which  rose  like  a 
sloping  bank  of  green  verdure  almost  to  the  summit. 
And  happy  sight  to  me,  so  long  a  stranger  to  it,  there 
were  hundreds  of  cattle  grazing,  imparting  a  pleasing- 
animation  to  the  solitude  of  the  deep  folds  of  the  moun- 
tain range. 

But  the  fairest  view  was  obtained  by  looking  north- 
ward towards  the  dense  group  of  mountains  which 
buttressed  the  front  range,  facing  towards  Rubeho.  It 
was  the  home  of  the  winds,  which  starting  here  and 
sweeping  down  the  precipitous  slopes  and  solitary 
peaks  on  the  western  side,  and  gathering  strength  as 
they  rushed  through  the  prairie-like  Marenga  Mkali, 


May,  1871.] 


TO  UGOGO. 


169 


howled  through  Ugogo  and  Unyamwezi  with  the  force 
of  a  storm.  It  was  also  the  home  of  the  dews,  where 
sprang  the  clear  springs  which  cheered  by  their  music 
the  bosky  dells  below,  and  enriched  the  populous 
district  of  Mpwapwa.  Cue  felt  better,  stronger,  on 
this  breezy  height,  drinking  in  the  pure  air  and  feast- 
ing the  eves  on  such  a  varied  landscape  as  it  presented, 
on  spreading  plateaus  green  as  lawns,  on  smooth 
rounded  tops,  on  mountain  vales  containing  recesses 
which  might  charm  a  hermit's  soul,  on  deep  and  awful 
ravines  where  reigned  a  twilight  gloom,  on  fractured 
and  riven  precipices,  on  huge  fantastically-worn 
boulders  which  overtopped  them,  on  picturesque  tracts 
which  embraced  all  that  was  wild,  and  all  that  was 
poetical  in  Nature. 

Mpwapwa,  though  the  traveller  from  the  coast  will 
feel  grateful  for  the  milk  it  furnished  after  being  so 
long  deprived  of  it,  will  be  kept  in  mind  as  a  most 
remarkable  place  for  earwigs.  In  my  tent  they  might 
be  counted  by  thousands ;  in  my  slung  cot  they  were 
by  hundreds ;  on  my  clothes  they  were  by  fifties ;  on 
my  neck  and  head  they  were  by  scores.  The  several 
plagues  of  locusts,  fleas,  and  lice  sink  into  utter  insig- 
nificance compared  with  this  damnable  one  of  earwigs. 
It  is  true  they  did  not  bite,  and  they  did  not  irritate 
the  cuticle,  but  what  their  presence  and  numbers 
suggested  was  something  so  horrible  that  it  drove  one 
nearly  insane  to  think  of  it.  Who  will  come  to  East 
Africa  without  reading  the  experiences  of  Burton  and 
Speke  ?  Who  is  he  that  having  read  them  will  not 
remember  with  horror  the  dreadful  account  given  by 
Speke  of  his  encounters  with  these  pests  ?  My  intense 
nervous  watchfulness  alone,  I  believe,  saved  me  from  a 
like  calamity. 


170 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Second  to  the  earwigs  in  importance  and  in  numbers 
were  the  white  ants,  whose  powers  of  destructiveness 
were  simply  awful.  Mats,  cloth,  portmanteaus,  clothes, 
in  short,  every  article  I  possessed,  seemed  on  the  verge 
of  destruction,  and,  as  I  witnessed  their  voracity,  I  felt- 
anxious  lest  my  tent  should  be  devoured  while  I  slept. 
This  was  the  first  khambi  since  leaving  the  coast  where 
their  presence  became  a  matter  of  anxiety ;  at  all  other 
camping  places  hitherto  the  red  and  black  ants  had 
usurped  our  attention,  but  at  Mpwapwa  the  red  species 
were  not  seen,  while  the  black  were  also  very  scarce. 

After  a  three  days'  halt  at  Mpwapwa  I  decided  on 
a  march  to  Marenga  Mkali  which  should  be  unin- 
terrupted until  we  reached  Mvumi  in  Ugogo,  where 
I  should  be  inducted  into  the  art  of  paying  tribute  to 
the  Wagogo  chiefs.  The  first  march  to  Kisokweh  was 
purposely  made  short,  being  barely  four  miles,  in  order 
to  enable  Sheikh  Thani,  Sheikh  Hamed,  and  five  or 
six  Wasawahili  caravans  to  come  up  with  me  at  Chunyo 
on  the  confines  of  Marenga  Mkali. 


OUR  CAMP  AT  CHUNYO. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THROUGH  MARENGA  MKALI,  UGOGO,  AND  UYANZI,  TO 
UNYANYEMBE. 


h. 

m. 

From  Marenga  Mkali  to- 

Mvumi,  Little  Ugogo 

12 

30 

Mvumi,  Great  Ugogo 

4 

0 

Matamburu  „ 

4 

0 

Bihawana  „ 

4 

0 

Kididimo  „ 

2 

0 

Pembera  Pereh  „ 

10 

0 

Mizanza  „ 

5 

30 

Mukondoku  „ 

6 

30 

Manieka  n 

5 

0 

Mabunguru  Mtoni,  U- 

yanzi  .... 

8 

0 

Kiti,  Uyanzi  . 

6 

30 

Msalalo  .... 

6 

30 

From  Msalalo  to- 
Welled  Ngaraiso  .     .  3  30 

Kusuri   3  15 

Mgongo  Tembo    .     .  3  30 

„          „     Mtoni  3  30 

Nghwhalah  Mtoni     .  2  40 

Madedita  ....  2  30 
Central  Tura,  Unyam- 

wezi       ....  3  0 
Kwala  River  ...70 

Rubuga     ....  7  15 

Kigwa   5  0 

Shisa   7  0 

Kwihara    ....  3  0 


The  22nd  of  May  saw  Thani  and  Hamed's  caravans 
united  with  my  own  at  Chunyo,  three  and  a  half 


172 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


hours'  march  from  Mpwapwa.  The  road  from  the 
latter  place  ran  along  the  skirts  of  the  Mpwapwa 
range ;  at  three  or  four  places  it  crossed  outlying  spurs 
that  stood  isolated  from  the  main  body  of  the  range. 
The  last  of  these  hill  spurs,  joined  by  an  elevated  cross 
ridge  to  the  Mpwapwa,  shelters  the  tembe  of  Chunyo, 
situated  on  the  western  face,  from  the  stormy  gusts 
that  come  roaring  down  the  steep  slopes.  The  water 
of  Chunyo  is  eminently  bad,  in  fact  it  is  its  saline- 
nitrous  nature  which  has  given  the  name  Marenga 
Mkali — bitter  water — to  the  wilderness  which  sepa- 
rates Usagara  from  Ugogo.  Though  extremely  offensive 
to  the  palate,  Arabs  and  the  natives  drink  it  without 
fear,  and  without  any  bad  results  ;  but  they  are  care- 
ful to  withhold  their  baggage  animals  from  the  pits. 
Being  ignorant  of  its  nature,  and  not  exactly  under- 
standing what  precise  location  was  meant  by  Marenga 
Mkali,  I  permitted  the  donkeys  to  be  taken  to  water, 
as  usual  after  a  march ;  and  the  consequence  was 
calamitous  in  the  extreme.  What  the  fearful  swamp  of 
Makata  had  spared,  the  waters  of  Marenga  Mkali 
destroyed.  In  less  than  five  days  after  our  departure 
from  Chunyo  or  Marenga  Mkali,  five  out  of  the  nine 
donkeys  left  to  me  at  the  time — the  five  healthiest 
animals — fell  victims.  The  water  appeared  to  cause 
retention  of  urine  ;  for  three  of  the  animals  died  from 
this  cause. 

We  formed  quite  an  imposing  caravan  as  we  emerged 
from  inhospitable  Chunyo,  in  number  amounting  to 
about  four  hundred  souls.  We  were  strong  in  guns, 
flags,  horns,  sounding  drums  and  noise.  To  Sheikh 
Hamed,  by  permission  of  Sheikh  Thani,  and  myself 
was  allotted  the  task  of  guiding  and  leading  this  great 
caravan  through  dreaded  Ugogo ;  which  was  a  most 
unhappy  selection,  as  will  be  seen  hereafter. 


May,  1871.]      THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UN YANYEMBE. 


173 


Marenga  Mkali,  over  thirty  miles  across,  was  at  last 
before  us.  This  distance  had  to  be  traversed  within 
thirty-six  hours,  so  that  the  fatigue  of  the  ordinary 
march  would  be  more  than  doubled  by  this.  From 
Chunyo  to  Ugogo  not  one  drop  of  water  was  to  be  found. 
As  a  large  caravan,  say  over  two  hundred  souls,  seldom 
travels  over  one  and  three-quarter  miles  per  hour,  a 
march  of  thirty  miles  would  require  seventeen  hours  of 
endurance  without  water  and  but  little  rest.  East 
Africa  generally  possessing  unlimited  quantities  of 
water,  caravans  have  not  been  compelled  for  lack  of 
the  element  to  have  recourse  to  the  mushok  of  India 
and  the  khirbeh  of  Egypt.  Being  able  to  cross  the 
waterless  districts  by  a  couple  of  long  marches,  they 
content  themselves  for  the  time  with  a  small  gourdful, 
and  with  keeping  their  imaginations  dwelling  upon 
the  copious  quantities  they  will  drink  upon  arrival  at 
the  watering-place. 

The  march  through  this  waterless  district  was  most 
monotonous,  and  a  dangerous  fever  attacked  me,  which 
seemed  to  eat  into  my  very  vitals.  The  wonders  of 
Africa  that  bodied  themselves  forth  in  the  shape  of 
flocks  of  zebras,  giraffes,  elands,  or  antelopes,  galloping 
over  the  jungleless  plain,  had  no  charm  for  me ;  nor 
could  they  serve  to  draw  my  attention  from  the  severe 
fit  of  sickness  which  possessed  me.  Towards  the  end  of 
the  first  march  I  was  not  able  to  sit  upon  the  donkey's 
back ;  nor  would  it  do,  when  but  a  third  of  the  way 
across  the  wilderness,  to  halt  until  the  next  day  ; 
soldiers  were  therefore  detailed  to  carry  me  in  a 
hammock,  and,  when  the  terekeza  was  performed  in 
the  afternoon,  I  lay  in  a  lethargic  state,  unconscious  of 
all  things.  With  the  night  passed  the  fever,  and, 
at  3  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  the  march  war 


174 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


resumed,  I  was  booted  and  spurred,  and  the  recognized 
mtongi  of  my  caravan  once  more.  At  8  a.m.  we 
bad  performed  the  thirty-two  miles.  The  wilderness  of 
Marenga  Mkali  had  been  passed  and  we  had  entered 
Ugogo,  which  was  at  once  a  dreaded  land  to  my 
caravan,  and  a  Land  of  Promise  to  myself. 

The  transition  from  the  wilderness  into  this  Pro- 
mised Land  was  very  gradual  and  easy.  Yery  slowly 
the  jungle  thinned,  the  cleared  land  was  a  long  time 
appearing,  and  when  it  had  finally  appeared,  there 
were  no  signs  of  cultivation  until  we  could  clearly  make 
out  the  herbage  and  vegetation  on  some  hill  slopes  to 
our  right  running  parallel  with  our  route,  then  we  saw 
timber  on  the  hills,  and  broad  acreage  under  cultivation 
— and,  lo  !  as  we  ascended  a  wave  of  reddish  earth 
covered  with  tall  weeds  and  cane,  but  a  few  feet  from  us, 
and  directly  across  our  path,  were  the  fields  of  matama 
and  grain  we  had  been  looking  for,  and  Ugogo  had 
been  entered  an  hour  before. 

The  view  was  not  such  as  I  expected.  I  had 
imagined  a  plateau  several  hundred  feet  higher  than 
Marenga  Mkali,  and  an  expansive  view  which  should 
reveal  Ugogo  and  its  characteristics  at  once.  But  instead, 
while  travelling  from  the  tall  weeds  which  covered  the 
clearing  which  had  preceded  the  cultivated  parts,  we 
had  entered  into  the  depths  of  the  taller  matama 
stalks,  and,  excepting  some  distant  hills  near  Mvumi, 
<  where  the  Great  Sultan  lived — the  first  of  the  tribe  to 
whom  we  should  pay  tribute — the  view  was  extremely 
limited. 

However,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  first  village  a 
glimpse  at  some  of  the  peculiar  features  of  Ugogo  was 
obtained,  and  there  was  a  vast  plain — now  flat,  now 
heaving  upwards,  here  level  as  a  table,  there  tilted  up 


May,  1871.]      THROUGH  UQOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  175 

into  rugged  knolls  bristling  with  scores  of  rough 
boulders  of  immense  size,  which  lay  piled  one  above 
another  as  if  the  children  of  a  Titanic  race  had  been 
playing  at  house-building.  Indeed,  these  piles  of 
rounded,  angular,  and  riven  rock  formed  miniature 
hills  of  themselves,  and  appeared  as  if  each  body  had 
been  ejected  upwards  by  some  violent  agency  beneath. 
There  was  one  of  these  in  particular,  near  Mvumi, 
which  was  so  large,  and  being  slightly  obscured  from 
view  by  the  outspreading  branches  of  a  gigantic 
baobab,  bore  such  a  strong  resemblance  to  a  square 
tower  of  massive  dimensions,  that  for  a  long  time  I 
cherished  the  idea  that  I  had  discovered  something  most 
interesting  which  had  strangely  escaped  the  notice  of 
my  predecessors  in  East  Africa.  A  nearer  view  dis- 
pelled the  illusion,  and  proved  it  to  be  a  huge  cube  of 
rock,  measuring  about  forty  feet  each  way.  The  baobabs 
were  also  particularly  conspicuous  on  this  scene,  no 
other  kind  of  tree  being  visible  in  the  cultivated  parts. 
These  had  probably  been  left  for  two  reasons :  first, 
want  of  proper  axes  for  felling  trees  of  such  enormous 
growth  ;  secondly,  because  during  a  famine  the  fruit  of 
the  baobab  furnishes  a  flour  which,  in  the  absence  of 
anything  better,  is  said  to  be  eatable  and  nourishing. 

The  first  words  I  heard  in  Ugogo  were  from  a  Wa- 
g3go  elder,  of  sturdy  form,  who  in  an  indolent  way 
tended  the  flocks,  but  showed  a  marked  interest  in  the 
stranger  clad  in  white  flannels,  with  a  Hawkes'  patent 
cork  solar  tojoee  on  his  head,  a  most  unusual  thing  in 
Ugogo,  who  came  walking  past  him,  and  there  were 
"Yambo,  Musungu,  Yambo,  Bana,  Bana,"  delivered 
with  a  voice  loud  enough  to  make  itself  heard  a  full 
mile  away.  No  sooner  had  the  greeting  been  delivered 
than  the  word  " Musungu"  seemed  to  electrify  his 


176 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


entire  village;  and  the  people  of  other  villages,  situated 
at  intervals  near  the  road,  noting  the  excitement  that 
reigned  at  the  first,  also  participated  in  the  general  frenzy 
which  seemed  suddenly  to  have  possessed  them.  I  con- 
sider my  progress  from  the  first  village  to  Mvumi  to 
have  been  most  triumphant ;  for  I  was  accompanied  by 
a  furious  mob  of  men,  women,  and  children,  all  almost 
as  naked  as  Mother  Eve  when  the  world  first  dawned 
upon  her  in  the  garden  of  Eden,  fighting,  quarreling, 
jostling,  staggering  against  each  other  for  the  best  view 
of  the  white  man,  the  like  of  whom  was  now  seen  for 
the  first  time  in  this  part  of  Ugogo.  The  cries  of  admi- 
ration, such  as  "Hi  le !"  which  broke  often  and  in  con- 
fused uproar  upon  my  ear,  were  not  gratefully  accepted, 
inasmuch  as  I  deemed  many  of  them  impertinent.  A 
respectful  silence  and  more  reserved  behaviour  would 
have  won  my  esteem ;  but,  ye  powers,  who  cause 
etiquette  to  be  observed  in  Usungu,  respectful  silence, 
reserved  behaviour,  and  esteem  are  terms  unknown  in 
savage  Ugogo.  Hitherto  I  had  compared  myself  to  a 
merchant  of  Bagdad  travelling  among  the  Kurds  of 
Kurdistan,  selling  his  wares  of  Damascus  silk,  kefiyehs, 
&c. ;  but  now  I  was  compelled  to  lower  my  standard, 
and  thought  myself  not  much  better  than  the  monkey 
in  the  zoological  collection  at  Central  Park,  whose 
funny  antics  elicit  such  bursts  of  laughter  from  young 
New  Yorkers.  One  of  my  soldiers  requested  them  to 
lessen  their  vociferous  noise  ;  but  the  evil-minded  race 
ordered  him  to  shut  up,  as  a  thing  unworthy  to  speak 
to  the  Wagogo  !  When  I  imploringly  turned  to  the 
Arabs  for  counsel  in  this  strait,  old  Sheikh  Thani, 
always  worldly  wise,  said,  "  Heed  them  not ;  they  are 
dogs  who  bite  besides  barking." 

At  9  a.m.  we  were  in  our  boma,  near  Mvumi  village  ; 


May,  1871.1      THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  IT 


but  here  also  crowds  of  Wagogo  came  to  catch  a  glimpse 
of  the  Musungu,  whose  presence  was  soon  made  known 
throughout  the  district  of  Mvumi.  But  two  hours  later 
I  was  oblivious  of  their  endeavours  to  see  me  ;  for, 
despite  repeated  doses  of  quinine,  the  Mukunguru  had 
sure  hold  of  me. 

The  next  day  was  a  march  of  eight  miles,  from  East 
Mvumi  to  West  Mvumi,  where  lived  the  sultan  of  the 
district.  The  quantity  and  variety  of  provisions  which 
arrived  at  our  boma  did  not  belie  the  reports  respect- 
ing the  productions  of  Ugogo.  Milk,  sour  and  sweet, 
honey,  beans,  matama,  maweri,  Indian  corn,  ghee,  pea- 
nuts, and  a  species  of  bean-nut  very  like  a  large 
pistachio  or  an  almond,  water-melons,  pumpkins,  mush- 
melons,  and  cucumbers  were  brought,  and  readily 
axchanged  for  Merikani,  Kaniki,  and  for  the  white 
Merikani  beads  and  Sami-Sami,  or  Sam-Sam.  The  trade 
and  barter  which  progressed  in  the  camp  from  morning 
till  night  reminded  me  of  the  customs  existing  among 
the  Gal  las  and  Abyssinians.  Eastward,  caravans  were 
obliged  to  despatch  men  with  cloth,  to  purchase  from 
the  villagers.  This  was  unnecessary  in  Ugogo,  where 
the  people  voluntarily  brought  every  vendible  they 
possessed  to  the  camp.  The  smallest  breadth  of  white 
or  blue  cloth  became  saleable  and  useful  in  purchasing 
provisions — even  a  loin-cloth  worn  threadbare. 

The  day  after  our  march  was  a  halt.  We  had  fixed 
to-day  for  bearing  the  tribute  to  the  Great  Sultan  of 
Mvumi.  Prudent  and  cautious,  Sheikh  Thani  early 
began  this  important  duty,  the  omission  of  which  would 
have  been  a  signal  for  war.  Hamed  and  Thani  sent 
two  faithful  slaves,  well  up  to  the  eccentricities  of  the 
Wagogo  sultans — well  spoken,  having  glib  tongues 
and  the  real  instinct  for  trade  as  carried  on  amongst 

N 


178 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Orientals.  They  bore  six  doti  of  cloths,  viz,  one  doti  ot 
Dabwani  Ulyah  contributed  by  myself,  also  one  doti  of 
Barsati  from  me,  two  doti  Merikani  Satine  from  Sheikh 
Thani,  and  two  doti  of  Kaniki  from  Sheikh  Hamed,  as 
a  first  instalment  of  the  tribute.  The  slaves  were  absent 
a  full  hour,  but  having  wasted  their  powers  of  plead- 
ing, in  vain,  they  returned  with  the  demand  for  more, 
which  Sheikh  Thani  communicated  to  me  in  this  wise. 

"  Auf !  this  Sultan  is  a  very  bad  man — a  very  bad 
man  indeed ;  he  says,  the  Musungu  is  a  great  man, 
I  call  him  a  sultan ;  the  Musungu  is  very  rich,  for  he 
has  several  caravans  already  gone  past ;  the  Musungu 
must  pay  forty  doti,  and  the  Arabs  must  pay  twelve 
doti  each,  for  they  have  rich  caravans.  It  is  of  no  use 
for  you  to  tell  me  you  are  all  one  caravan,  otherwise 
why  so  many  flags  and  tents  ?  Go  and  bring  me  sixty 
doti,  with  less  I  will  not  be  satisfied." 

1  suggested  to  Sheikh  Thani,  upon  hearing  this 
exorbitant  demand,  that  had  I  twenty  Wasungu  armed 
with  Winchester  repeating  rifles,  the  Sultan  might  be 
obliged  to  pay  tribute  to  me ;  but  Thani  prayed  and 
begged  me  to  be  cautious  lest  angry  words  might  irritate 
the  Sultan  and  cause  him  to  demand  a  double  tribute, 
as  he  was  quite  capable  of  doing  so  ;  "  and  if  you 
preferred  war,"  said  he,  "  your  pagazis  would  all  desert, 
and  leave  you  and  your  cloth  to  the  small  mercy  of  the 
Wagogo."  But  I  hastened  to  allay  his  fears  by  telling 
Bombay,  in  his  presence,  that  I  had  foreseen  such  de- 
mands on  the  part  of  the  Wagogo,  and  that  having  set 
aside  one  hundred  and  twenty  doti  of  honga  cloths,  I 
should  not  consider  myself  a  sufferer  if  the  Sultan 
demanded  and  I  paid  forty  cloths  to  him  ;  that  he  must 
therefore  open  the  honga  bale,  and  permit  Sheikh  Thani 
to  extract  such  cloths  as  the  Sultan  might  like. 


May,  1871.]      THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYAN YEMBE.  179 

Sheikh  Thani,  having  put  on  the  cap  of  consideration 
and  joined  heads  with  Hamed  and  the  faithful  serviles, 
thought  if  I  paid  twelve  doti,  out  of  which  three  should 
be  of  Ulyah  quality,  that  the  Sultan  might  possibly 
condescend  to  accept  our  tribute  ;  supposing  he  was 
persuaded  by  the  oratorical  words  of  the  "  Faithfuls," 
that  the  Musungu  had  nothing  with  him  but  the 
mashiwa  (boat),  which  would  be  of  no  use  to  him, 
come  what  might, — with  which  prudent  suggestion  the 
Musungu  concurred,  seeing  its  wisdom. 

The  slaves  departed,  bearing  this  time  from  our  boma 
thirty  doti,  with  our  best  wishes  for  their  success.  In 
an  hour  they  returned  with  empty  hands,  but  yet  un- 
successful. The  Sultan  demanded  six  doti  of  Merikani, 
and  a  fundo  of  bubu,  from  the  Musungu ;  and  from  the 
Arabs  and  other  caravans,  twelve  doti  more.  For  the 
third  time  the  slaves  departed  for  the  Sultan's  tembe, 
carrying  with  them  six  doti  Merikani  and  a  fundo  of 
bubu  from  myself,  and  ten  doti  from  the  Arabs.  Again 
they  returned  to  us  with  the  Sultan's  words,  "  That,  as 
the  doti  of  the  Musungu  were  short  measure,  and  the 
cloth  of  the  Arabs  of  miserable  quality,  the  Musungu 
must  send  three  doti  full  measure,  and  the  Arabs  five 
doti  of  Kaniki."  My  three  doti  were  at  once  measured 
out  with  the  longest  fore-arm — according  to  Kigogo 
measure — and  sent  off  by  Bombay  ;  but  the  Arabs 
almost  in  despair  declared  they  would  be  ruined  if  they 
gave  way  to  such  demands,  and  out  of  the  five  doti 
demanded  sent  only  two,  with  a  pleading  to  the  Sultan 
that  he  would  consider  what  was  paid  as  just  and  fair 
Muhongo,  and  not  ask  any  more.  But  the  Sultan  of 
Mvumi  was  by  no  means  disposed  to  consider  any  such 
proposition,  but  declared  he  must  have  three  doti,  and 
these  to  be  two  of  Ulyah  cloth,  and  one  Kitambi  Barsati, 

N  2 


180 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


which,  as  he  was  determined  to  obtain,  were  sent  to  him 
heavy  with  the  deep  maledictions  .of  Sheikh  Hamed 
and  the  despairing  sighs  of  Sheikh  Thani. 

Altogether  the  sultanship  of  a  district  in  Ugogo 
must  be  very  remunerative,  besides  being  a  delightful 
sinecure,  so  long  as  the  sultan  has  to  deal  with  timid 
Arab  merchants  who  fear  to  exhibit  anything  approach- 
ing to  independence  and  self-reliance,  lest  they  might 
be  mulcted  in  cloth.  In  one  day  from  one  boma  the 
sultan  received  forty-seven  doti,  consisting  of  Merikani, 
Kaniki,  Barsati,  and  Dabwani,  equal  to  $35*25,  be- 
sides seven  doti  of  superior  cloths,  consisting  of  Eehani, 
Sohari,  and  Daobwani  Ulyah,  and  one  fun  do  of  Bubu, 
equal  to  $14*00,  making  a  total  of  $49*25 — a  most 
handsome  revenue  for  a  Mgogo  chief. 

On  the  27th  May  we  gladly  shook  the  dust  of  Mvumi 
from  our  feet,  and  continued  on  our  route — ever  west- 
ward. Five  of  my  donkeys  had  died  the  night  before, 
from  the  effects  of  the  water  of  Marenga  Mkali. 
Before  leaving  the  boma  of  Mvumi,  I  went  to  look  at 
their  carcases ;  but  found  them  to  have  been  clean 
picked  by  the  hysenas,  and  the  bones  taken  possession 
of  by  an  army  of  white-necked  crows. 

As  we  passed  the  numerous  villages,  and  perceived 
the  entire  face  of  the  land  to  be  one  vast  field  of  grain, 
and  counted  the  people  halted  by  scores  on  the  roadside 
to  feast  their  eyes  with  a  greedy  stare  on  the  Musungu, 
I  no  longer  wondered  at  the  extortionate  demands  of 
the  Wagogo.  For  it  was  manifest  that  they  had  but 
to  stretch  out  their  hands  to  possess  whatever  the 
wealth  of  a  caravan  consisted  of;  and  I  began  to  think 
better  of  the  people  who,  knowing  well  their  strength, 
did  not  use  it — of  people  who  were  intellectual  enough 
to  comprehend  that  their  interest  lay  in  permitting 


May,  1871.]      THROUGH  UQOQO  TO  UNYANTEMBE.  181 


the  caravans  to  pass  on  without  attempting  any 
outrage. 

Between  Mvumi  and  the  next  sultan's  district,  that 
of  Matamburu,  I  counted  no  less  than  twenty -five 
villages  scattered  over  the  clayey,  colored  plain. 
Despite  the  inhospitable  nature  of  the  plain,  it  was 
better  cultivated  than  any  part  of  any  other  country 
we  had  seen  since  leaving  Bagamoyo. 

When  we  had  at  last  arrived  at  our  boma  of 
Matamburu,  the  same  groups  of  curious  people,  the 
same  eager  looks,  the  same  exclamations  of  surprise, 
the  same  peals  of  laughter  at  something  they  deemed 
ludicrous  in  the  Musungu's  dress  or  manner,  awaited 
us,  as  at  Mvumi.  The  Arabs  being  "  Wakonongo " 
travellers,  whom  they  saw  every  day,  enjoyed  a  com- 
plete immunity  from  the  vexations  which  we  had  to 
endure. 

The  Sultan  of  Matamburu,  a  man  of  herculean  form, 
and  massive  head  well  set  on  shoulders  that  might  vie 
with  those  of  Milo,  proved  to  be  a  very  reasonable  person. 
Not  quite  so  powerful  as  the  Sultan  of  Mvumi,  he  yet 
owned  a  fair  share  of  Ugogo  and  about  forty  villages, 
and  could,  if  he  chose,  have  oppressed  the  mercantile 
souls  of  my  Arab  companions,  in  the  same  way  as  he? 
of  Mvumi.  Four  doti  of  cloth  were  taken  to  him  as  a 
preliminary  offering  to  his  greatness,  which  he  said  he- 
would  accept,  if  the  Arabs  and  Musungu  would  send 
him  four  more.  As  his  demands  were  so  reasonably 
this  little  affair  was  soon  terminated  to  everybody's 
satisfaction  ;  and  soon  after,  the  kirangozi  of  Sheikh 
Hamed  sounded  the  signal  for  the  morrow's  march. 

At  the  orders  of  the  same  Sheikh,  the  kirangozi 
stood  up  to  speak  before  the  assembled  caravans. 
"  Words,  words,  from  the  Bana,"  he  shouted.    "  Give 


182 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIV1NGST0NL 


ear,  kirangozis  !  Listen,  children  of  Unyamwezi !  The 
journey  is  for  to-morrow  !  The  road  is  crooked  and 
had,  bad  !  The  jungle  is  there,  and  many  Wagogo  lie 
hidden  within  it !  Wagogo  spear  the  pagazis,  and  cut 
the  throats  of  those  who  carry  mutumba  (bales  and 
ushanga  beads)  !  The  Wagogo  have  been  to  our 
camp,  they  have  seen  your  bales ;  to-night  they  seek 
the  jungle  :  to-morrow  watch  well,  0  Wanyamwezi ! 
Keep  close  together,  lag  not  behind  !  Kirangozis  walk 
slow,  that  the  weak,  the  sick,  and  the  young  may 
keep  up  with  the  strong !  Take  two  rests  on  the 
journey  !  These  are  the  words  of  the  Bana  (master). 
Do  you  hear  them,  Wanyamwezi  ?  (A  loud  shout  in 
the  affirmative  from  all.)  Do  you  understand  them 
well?  (another  chorus) ;  then  Bas;"  having  said  which, 
the  eloquent  kirangozi  retired  into  the  dark  night,  and 
his  straw  hut. 

The  march  to  Bihawana,  our  next  camp,  was  rugged 
and  long,  through  a  continuous  jungle  of  gums  and 
thorns,  up  steep  hills  and  finally  over  a  fervid  plain, 
while  the  sun  waxed  hotter  and  hotter  as  it  drew 
near  the  meridian,  until  it  seemed  to  scorch  all  vitality 
from  inanimate  nature,  while  the  view  was  one  white 
blaze,  unbearable  to  the  pained  sight,  which  sought 
relief  from  the  glare  in  vain.  Several  sandy  water- 
courses, on  which  were  impressed  many  a  trail  of 
elephants,  were  also  passed  on  this  march.  The  slope 
of  these  stream-beds  trended  south-east  and  south. 

In  the  middle  of  this  scorching  plain  stood  the 
villages  of  Bihawana,  almost  undistinguisbable,  from 
the  extreme  lowness  of  the  huts,  which  did  not  reach 
the  height  of  the  tall  bleached  grass  which  stood 
smoking  in  the  untempered  heat. 

Our  camp  was  in  a  large  boma,  about  a  quarter  of  a 


May,  1871.]       THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  183 


mile  from  the  Sultan's  tembe.  Soon  after  arriving  at 
the  camp,  I  was  visited  by  three  Wagogo,  who  asked 
me  if  I  had  seen  a  Mgogo  on  the  road  with  a  woman 
and  child.  I  was  about  to  answer,  very  innocently, 
u  Yes,"  when  Mabruki — cautious  and  watchful  always 
for  the  interests  of  the  master — requested  me  not  to 
answer,  as  the  Wagogo,  as  customary,  would  charge  me 
with  having  done  away  with  them,  and  would  require 
their  price  from  me.  Indignant  at  the  imposition  they 
were  about  to  practise  upon  me,  I  was  about  to  raise  my 
whip  to  flog  them  out  of  the  camp,  when  again  Mabruki, 
with  a  roaring  voice,  bade  me  beware,  for  every  blow 
would  cost  me  three  or  four  doti  of  cloth.  As  I  did 
not  care  to  gratify  my  anger  at  such  an  expense,  I  was 
compelled  to  swallow  my  wrath,  and  consequently  the 
Wagogo  escaped  chastisement. 

We  halted  for  one  day  at  this  place,  which  was  a 
great  relief  to  me,  as  I  was  suffering  severely  from  inter- 
mittent fever,  which  lasted  in  this  case  two  weeks,  and 
entirely  prevented  my  posting  my  diary  in  full,  as  was 
my  custom  every  evening  after  a  march. 

The  Sultan  of  Bihawana,  though  his  subjects  were 
evil-disposed,  and  ready-handed  at  theft  and  murder, 
contented  himself  with  three  doti  as  honga.  From  this 
chief  I  received  news  of  my  fourth  caravan,  which  had 
distinguished  itself  in  a  fight  with  some  outlawed 
subjects  of  his;  my  soldiers  had  killed  two  who  had 
attempted,  after  waylaying  a  couple  of  my  pagazis,  to 
carry  away  a  bale  of  cloth  and  a  bag  of  beads ;  coming 
up  in  time,  the  soldiers  decisively  frustrated  the  attempt. 
The  Sultan  thought  that  if  all  caravans  were  as  well 
guarded  as  mine  were,  there  would  be  less  depredationa 
committed  on  them  while  on  the  road  ;  with  this  I 
heartily  agreed. 


184 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  next  sultan's  tembe  through  whose  territory  we 
marched,  this  being  on  the  30th  May,  was  at  Kididimo, 
but  four  miles  from  Bihawana.  The  road  led  through 
a  flat  elongated  plain  lying  between  two  lengthy  hilly 
ridges  thickly  dotted  with  the  giant  forms  of  the  baobab. 
Kididimo  is  exceedingly  bleak  in  aspect.  Even  the 
faces  of  the  Wagogo  seemed  to  have  contracted  a  bleak 
hue  from  the  general  bleakness  around.  The  water  of 
the  pits  obtained  in  the  neighbourhood  had  the  flavor 
of  warm  horse-urine,  and  two  donkeys  sickened  and 
died  in  less  than  an  hour  from  its  effects.  Man  suffered 
belly-ache,  nausea  in  the  stomach,  and  a  general  irrita- 
bility of  the  system  ;  and  accordingly  revenged  himself 
by  cursing  the  country  and  its  imbecile  ruler  most 
heartily.  The  climax  came,  however,  when  Bombay 
reported,  after  an  attempt  to  settle  the  Muhongo,  that 
the  chief's  head  had  grown  big  since  he  heard  that  the 
Musungu  had  come,  and  that  its  "  bigness  "  could  not 
be  reduced  unless  he  could  extract  ten  doti  as  tribute. 
Though  the  demand  was  large,  I  was  not  in  a  humour 
— being  feeble,  and  almost  nerveless,  from  repeated 
attacks  of  the  Mukunguru — to  dispute  the  sum  :  conse- 
quently it  was  paid  without  many  words.  But  the 
Arabs  continued  the  whole  afternoon  negociating,  and 
at  the  end  had  to  pay  eight  doti  each. 

Between  Kididimo  and  Nyambwa,  the  district  of 
the  Sultan  Pembera  Pereh,  was  a  broad  and  lengthy 
forest  and  jungle  inhabited  by  the  elephant,  rhinoceros, 
zebra,  deer,  antelope,  and  giraffe.  Starting  at  dawn 
of  the  31st,  we  entered  the  jungle,  whose  dark  lines 
and  bosky  banks  were  clearly  visible  from  our  bower 
at  Kididimo ;  and,  travelling  for  two  hours,  halted  for 
rest  and  breakfast,  at  pools  of  sweet  water  surrounded 
by  tracts  of  vivid  green  verdure,  which  were  a  great 


Ma?,  1871.]     THROUGH  UQOQO  TO  UNYANYEMBE. 


185 


resort  for  the  wild  animals  of  the  jungle,  whose  tracks 
were  numerous  and  recent.  A  narrow  nullah,  shaded 
deeply  with  foliage,  afforded  excellent  retreats  from  the 
glaring  sunshine.  At  meridian,  our  thirst  quenched, 
our  hunger  satisfied,  our  gourds  refilled,  we  set  out 
from  the  shade  into  the  heated  blaze  of  hot  noon.  The 
path  serpentined  in  and  out  of  jungle,  and  thin  forest, 
into  open  tracts  of  grass  bleached  white  as  stubble, 
into  thickets  of  gums  and  thorns,  which  emitted  an 
odor  as  rank  as  a  stable ;  through  clumps  of  wide- 
spreading  mimosa  and  colonies  of  baobab,  through  a 
country  teeming  with  noble  game,  which,  though  we 
saw  them  frequently,  were  yet  as  safe  from  our  rifles  as 
if  we  had  been  on  the  Indian  Ocean.  A  terekeza, 
such  as  we  were  now  making,  admits  of  no  delay. 
Water  we  had  left  behind  at  noon  :  until  noon  of  the 
next  day  not  a  drop  was  to  be  obtained  ;  and  unless  we 
marched  fast  and  long  on  this  day,  raging  thirst  would 
demoralize  everybody.  So  for  six  long  weary  hours 
we  toiled  bravely ;  and  at  sunset  we  camped,  and  still 
a  march  of  two  hours,  to  be  done  before  the  sun  was  an 
hour  high,  intervened  between  us  and  our  camp  at 
Nyambwa.  That  night  the  men  bivouacked  under 
the  trees,  surrounded  by  many  miles  of  dense  forest, 
enjoying  the  cool  night  unprotected  by  hat  or  tent, 
while  I  groaned  and  tossed  throughout  the  night  in 
a  paroxysm  of  fever. 

The  morn  came  ;  and,  while  it  was  yet  young,  the 
long  caravan,  or  string  of  caravans,  was  under  way. 
It  was  the  same  forest,  admitting,  on  the  narrow  line 
which  we  threaded,  but  one  man  at  a  time.  Its  view 
was  as  limited.  To  our  right  and  left  the  forest  was 
dark  and  deep.  Above  was  a  riband  of  glassy  sky 
flecked  by  the  floating  nimbus.  We  heard  nothing  save 


186 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


a  few  stray  notes  from  a  flying  bird,  or  the  din  of  the 
caravans  as  the  men  sang,  or  hummed,  or  conversed, 
or  shouted,  as  the  thought  struck  them  that  we  were 
Hearing  water.  One  of  my  pagazis,  wearied  and  sick, 
fell,  and  never  rose  again.  The  last  of  the  caravan 
passed  him  before  he  died.  Fortunately  so,  otherwise 
we  must  have  committed  the  barbarism  of  leaving  him 
unburied,  whilst  knowing  he  was  dead. 

At  7  a.m.  we  were  encamped  at  Nyambwa,  drinking 
the  excellent  water  found  here  with  the  avidity  of 
thirsty  camels.  Extensive  fields  of  grain  had  heralded 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  villages,  at  the  sight  of 
which  we  were  conscious  that  the  caravan  was  quick- 
ening its  pace,  as  approaching  its  halting-place.  As 
the  Wasungu  drew  within  the  populated  area,  crowds 
of  Wagogo  used  their  utmost  haste  to  see  them  before 
they  passed  by.  Young  and  old  of  both  genders 
pressed  about  us  in  a  multitude — a  very  howling  mob. 
This  excessive  demonstrativeness  elicited  from  my 
sailor  overseer  the  characteristic  remark,  "  Well,  I 
declare,  these  must  be  the  genuine  Ugogians,  for 
they  stare  !  stare  ! — my  God,  there  is  no  end  to  their 
staring.  I'm  almost  tempted  to  slap  'em  in  the  face  !" 
In  fact,  the  conduct  of  the  Wagogo  of  Nyambwa  was 
an  exaggeration  of  the  general  conduct  of  Wagogo. 
Hitherto,  those  we  had  met  had  contented  themselves 
with  staring  and  shouting ;  but  these  outstepped  all 
bounds,  and  my  growing  anger  at  their  excessive 
insolence  vented  itself  in  gripping  the  rowdiest  of 
them  by  the  neck,  and  before  he  could  recover  from 
his  astonishment  administering  a  sound  thrashing  with 
my  dog-whip,  which  he  little  relished.  This  proceeding 
educed  from  the  .tribe  of  starers  all  their  native  power 
of  vituperation  and  abuse,  in  expressing  which  they 


Mat,  1871.]       THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANTEMBE.  181 

were  peculiar.  Approaching  in  manner  to  angry  torn 
cats,  they  jerked  their  words  with  something  of  a 
splitting  hiss  and  a  half  bark.  The  ejaculation,  ae 
near  as  I  can  spell  it  phonetically,  was  "  hahcht " 
uttered  in  a  shrill  crescendo  tone.  They  paced  back 
wards  and  forwards,  asking  themselves,  "  Are  the 
Wagogo  to  be  beaten  like  slaves  by  this  Musungu  ? 
A  Mgogo  is  a  Mgwana  (a  free  man)  ;  he  is  not  used  to 
be  beaten, — hahcht."  But  whenever  I  made  motion, 
flourishing  my  whip,  towards  them,  these  mighty 
braggarts  found  it  convenient  to  move  to  respectable 
distances  from  the  irritated  Musungu. 

Perceiving  that  a  little  manliness  and  show  of 
power  was  something  which  the  Wagogo  long  needed, 
and  that  in  this  instance  it  relieved  me  from  annoyance, 
I  had  recourse  to  my  whip,  whose  long  lash  cracked 
like  a  pistol  shot,  whenever  they  overstepped  modera- 
tion. So  long  as  they  continued  to  confine  their 
obtrusiveness  to  staring,  and  communicating  to  each 
other  their  opinions  respecting  my  complexion,  and 
dress,  and  accoutrements,  I  philosophically  resigned 
myself  in  silence  for  their  amusement,  but  when  they 
pressed  on  me,  barely  allowing  me  to  proceed,  a  few 
vigorous  and  rapid  slashes  right  and  left  with  my 
serviceable  thong,  soon  cleared  the  track. 

Pembera  Pereh  is  a  queer  old  man,  very  small,  and 
would  be  very  insignificant  were  he  not  the  greatest 
sultan  in  Ugogo ;  and  enjoying  a  sort  of  dimediate 
power  over  many  other  tribes.  Though  such  an  im- 
portant chief,  he  is  the  meanest  dressed  of  his  subjects, — 
is  always  filthy, — ever  greasy — eternally  foul  about 
the  mouth  ;  but  these  are  mere  eccentricities  :  as  a  wise 
judge,  he  is  without  parallel,  always  has  a  dodge  ever 
ready  for  the  abstraction  of  cloth  from  the  spiritless 


188 


IWW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Arab  merchants,  who  trade  with  Unyanyembe  every 
year ;  and  disposes  with  ease  of  a  judicial  case  which 
would  overtask  ordinary  men. 

Sheikh  Hamed,  who  was  elected  guider  of  the 
united  caravans  now  travelling  through  Ugogo,  was 
of  such  a  fragile  and  small  make,  that  he  might 
be  taken  for  an  imitation  of  his  famous  prototype 
"  Dapper."  Being  of  such  dimensions,  what  he  lacked 
for  weight  and  size  he  made  up  by  activity.  No 
sooner  was  he  arrived  in  camp  than  his  trim  dapper 
form  was  seen  frisking  about  from  side  to  side  of  the 
great  boma,  fidgeting,  arranging,  disturbing  every- 
thing and  everybody.  He  permitted  no  bales  or  packs 
to  be  intermingled,  or  to  come  into  too  close  proximity 
to  his  own ;  he  had  a  favourite  mode  of  stacking  his 
goods,  which  he  would  see  carried  out ;  he  had  a  special 
eye  for  the  best  place  for  his  tent,  and  no  one  else  must 
trespass  on  that  ground.  One  would  imagine  that 
walking  ten  or  fifteen  miles  a  day,  he  would  leave 
such  trivialities  to  his  servants,  but  no,  nothing 
could  be  right  unless  he  had  personally  superin- 
tended it ;  in  which  work  he  was  tireless  and  knew 
no  fatigue. 

Another  not  uncommon  peculiarity  pertained  to 
Sheikh  Hamed ;  as  he  was  not  a  rich  man,  he  laboured 
hard  to  make  the  most  of  every  shukka  and  doti  ex- 
pended, and  each  fresh  expenditure  seemed  to  gnaw  his 
very  vitals  :  he  was  ready  to  weep,  as  he  himself  expressed 
it,  at  the  high  prices  of  Ugogo,  and  the  extortionate 
demands  of  its  sultans.  For  this  reason,  being  the 
leader  of  the  caravans,  so  far  as  he  was  able  we  were 
very  sure  not  to  be  delayed  in  Ugogo,  where  food  was 
so  dear. 

The  day  we  arrived  at  Nyambwa  will  be  remembered 


May,  1871.]      THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UN YA N YEM B E.  189 

by  Hamed  as  long  as  he  lives,  for  the  trouble  and 
vexation  which  he  suffered.  His  misfortunes  arose 
from  the  fact  that,  being  too  busily  engaged  in  fidgeting 
about  the  camp,  he  permitted  his  donkeys  to  stray  into 
the  matama  fields  of  Pembera  Pereh,  the  Sultan.  For 
hours  he  and  his  servants  sought  for  the  stray  donkeys, 
returning  towards  evening  utterly  unsuccessful,  Hamed 
bewailing,  as  only  an  Oriental  can  do,  when  hard  fate 
visits  him  with  its  inflictions,  the  loss  of  a  hundred 
dollars  worth  of  Muscat  donkeys.  Sheikh  Thani,  older, 
more  experienced,  and  wiser,  suggested  to  him  that  he 
should  notify  the  Sultan  of  his  loss.  Acting  upon  the 
sagacious  advice,  Hamed  sent  an  embassy  of  two  slaves, 
and  the  information  they  brought  back  was,  that  Pem- 
bera Pereh's  servants  had  found  the  two  donkeys  eating 
the  unripened  matama,  and  that  unless  the  Arab  who 
owned  them  would  pay  nine  doti  of  first-class  cloths,  he, 
Pembera  Pereh,  would  surely  keep  them  to  remunerate 
him  for  the  matama  they  had  eaten.  Hamed  was  in 
despair.  Nine  doti  of  first-class  cloths,  worth  $25  in 
Unyanyembe,  for  half  a  shukka's  worth  of  grain,  was, 
as  he  thought,  an  absurd  demand  ;  but  then  if  he  did 
not  pay  it,  what  would  become  of  the  hundred  dollars 
worth  of  donkeys  ?  He  proceeded  to  the  Sultan  to  show 
him  the  absurdity  of  the  damage  claim,  and  to  endeavour 
to  make  him  accept  one  shukka,  which  would  be  more 
than  double  the  worth  of  what  grain  the  donkeys  had 
consumed.  But  the  Sultan  was  sitting  on  pombe,  he 
was  drunk,  which  I  believe  to  be  his  normal  state — too 
drunk  to  attend  to  business,  consequently  his  deputy,  a 
renegade  Unyamwezi,  gave  ear  to  the  business.  With 
most  of  the  Wagogo  chiefs  lives  a  Unyamwezi,  as  their 
right-hand  man,  prime  minister,  counsellor,  executioner, 
ready  man  at  all  things  save  the  general  good ;  a  sort 


190 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


of  harlequin  Unyamwezi,  who  is  such  an  intriguing, 
restless,  unsatisfied  person,  that  as  soon  as  one  hears 
that  this  kind  of  man  forms  one  of  and  the  chief  of  a 
Mgogo  sultan's  council,  one  feels  very  much  tempted 
to  do  damage  to  his  person.  Most  of  the  extortions 
practised  upon  the  Arabs  are  suggested  by  these  crafty 
renegades.  Sheikh  Hamed  found  that  the  Unyamwezi 
was  far  more  obdurate  than  the  Sultan — nothing  under 
nine  doti  first-class  cloths  would  redeem  the  donkeys. 
The  business  that  day  remained  unsettled,  and  the 
night  following  was,  as  one  may  imagine,  a  very  sleep- 
less one  to  Hamed.  As  it  turned  out,  however,  the 
loss  of  the  donkeys,  the  after  heavy  fine,  and  the 
sleepless  night,  proved  to  be  blessings  in  disguise;  for, 
towards  midnight,  a  robber  Mgogo  visited  his  camp, 
and  while  attempting  to  steal  a  bale  of  cloth,  was 
detected  in  the  act  by  the  wide-awake  and  irritated 
Arab,  and  was  made  to  vanish  instantly  with  a  bullet 
whistling  in  close  proximity  to  his  ear. 

From  each  of  the  principals  of  the  caravans,  the 
Unyamwezi  had  received  as  tribute  for  his  drunken 
master  fifteen  doti,  and  from  the  other  six  caravans  six 
doti  each,  altogether  fifty-one  doti,  yet  on  the  next 
morning  when  we  took  the  road  he  was  not  a  whit 
disposed  to  deduct  a  single  cloth  from  the  fine  imposed 
on  Hamed,  and  the  unfortunate  Sheikh  was  therefore 
obliged  to  liquidate  the  claim,  or  leave  his  donkeys 
behind. 

After  travelling  through  the  corn-fields  of  Pembera 
Pereh  we  emerged  upon  a  broad  flat  plain,  as  level  as 
the  still  surface  of  a  pond,  whence  the  salt  of  the 
Wagogo  is  obtained.  From  Kanyenyi  on  the  southern 
road,  to  beyond  the  confines  of  Uhumba  and  Ubanarama, 
this  saline  field  extends,  containing  many  large  ponds 


May,  1871.]      THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  191 


of  salt  bitter  water  whose  low  banks  are  covered  with 
an  effervescence  partaking  of  the  nature  of  nitrate. 
Subsequently,  two  days  afterwards,  having  ascended  the 
elevated  ridge  which  separates  Ugogo  from  Uyanzi,  I 
obtained  a  view  of  this  immense  saline  plain,  embracing 
over  a  hundred  square  miles.  I  may  have  been 
deceived,  but  I  imagined  I  saw  large  expanses  of 
greyish-blue  water,  which  causes  me  to  believe  that 
this  salina  is  but  a  corner  of  a  great  salt  lake.  The 
Wahumba,  who  are  numerous,  from  Nyambwa  to  the 
Uyanzi  border,  informed  my  soldiers  that  there  was  a 
"  Maji  Kuba  "  away  to  the  north. 

Mizanza,  our  next  camp  after  Nyambwa,  is  situated 
in  a  grove  of  palms,  about  thirteen  miles  from  the  latter 
place.  Soon  after  arriving  I  had  to  bury  myself  under 
blankets,  plagued  with  the  same  intermittent  fever 
which  first  attacked  me  during  the  transit  of  Marenga 
Mkali.  Feeling  certain  that  one  day's  halt,  which 
would  enable  me  to  take  regular  doses  of  the  invaluable 
sulphate  of  quinine,  would  cure  me,  I  requested  Sheikh 
Thani  to  tell  Hamed  to  halt  on  the  morrow,  as  [  should 
be  utterly  unable  to  continue  thus  long,  under  repeated 
attacks  of  a  virulent  disease  which  was  fast  reducing 
me  into  a  mere  frame  of  skin  and  bone.  Hamed,  in  a 
hurry  to  arrive  at  Unyanyembe  in  order  to  dispose 
of  his  cloth  before  other  caravans  appeared  in  the 
market,  replied  at  first  that  he  would  not,  that  he  could 
not,  stop  for  the  Musungu.  Upon  Thani's  reporting  his 
answer  to  me,  I  requested  him  to  inform  Hamed  that, 
as  the  Musungu  did  not  wish  to  detain  him,  or  any 
other  caravan,  it  was  his  express  wish  that  Hamed 
would  march  and  leave  him,  as  he  was  quite  strong 
enough  in  guns  to  march  through  Ugogo  alone.  What- 
ever cause  modified  the  Sheikh's  resolution  and  his 


192 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


anxiety  to  depart,  Hamed's  horn  signal  for  the  inarch 
was  not  heard  that  night,  and  on  the  morrow  he  had 
not  gone. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  commenced  on  my  quinine 
doses  ;  at  6  a.m.  I  took  a  second  dose  ;  before  noon  I  had 
taken  four  more — altogether,  fifty  measured  grains — 
the  effect  of  which  was  manifest  in  the  copious  per- 
spiration which  drenched  flannels,  linen,  and  blankets. 
After  noon  I  arose,  devoutly  thankful  that  the  disease 
which  had  clung  to  me  for  the  last  fourteen  days  had  at 
last  succumbed  to  quinine. 

On  this  day  the  lofty  tent,  and  the  American  flag 
which  ever  flew  from  the  centre  pole,  attracted  the 
Sultan  of  Mizanza  towards  it,  and  was  the  cause  of  a 
visit  with  which  he  honored  me.  As  he  was  notorious 
among  the  Arabs  for  having  assisted  Manwa  Sera  in 
his  war  against  Sheikh  Sny  bin  Amer,  high  eulogies 
upon  whom  have  been  written  by  Burton,  and  sub- 
sequently by  Speke,  and  as  he  was  the  second  most 
powerful  chief  in  Ugogo,  of  course  he  was  quite  a 
curiosity  to  me.  As  the  tent-door  was  uplifted  that  he 
might  enter,  the  ancient  gentleman  was  so  struck  with 
astonishment  at  the  lofty  apex,  and  internal  arrange- 
ments, that  the  greasy  Barsati  cloth  which  formed  his 
sole  and  only  protection  against  the  chills  of  night  and 
the  heat  of  noon,  in  a  fit  of  abstraction  was  permitted 
to  fall  down  to  his  feet,  exposing  to  the  Musungu's  unhal- 
lowed gaze  the  sad  and  aged  wreck  of  what  must  once 
have  been  a  towering  form.  His  son,  a  youth  of  about 
fifteen,  attentive  to  the  infirmities  of  his  father,  hastened 
with  filial  duty  to  remind  him  of  his  nakedness,  upon 
which,  with  an  idiotic  titter  at  the  incident,  he  resumed 
his  scanty  apparel  and  sat  down  to  wonder  and  gibber 
out  his  admiration  at  the  tent  and  the  strange  things 


June,  1871.]       THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  193 

which  formed  the  Musungu's  personal  baggage  and 
furniture.  A  Varangian  soldier  ushered  into  the  blaze 
and  magnificence  of  the  Imperial  Palace  of  Byzantium 
could  not  have  been  struck  with  more  astonishment  than 
was  the  Sultan  of  Mizanza  at  the  fittings  of  my  tent. 
After  gazing  in  stupid  wonder  at  the  table,  on  which 
was  placed  some  crockery  and  the  few  books  1  carried 
with  me ;  at  the  slung  hammock,  which  he  believed  was 
suspended  by  some  magical  contrivance ;  at  the  port- 
manteaus which  contained  my  stock  of  clothes,  he 
ejaculated,  "  Hi  le !  the  Musungu  is  a  great  sultan 
who  has  come  from  his  country  to  see  Ugogo."  He  then 
noticed  me,  and  was  again  wonder-struck  at  my  pale 
complexion  and  straight  hair,  and  the  question  now 
propounded  was,  "  How  on  earth  was  I  white  when  the 
sun  had  burned  his  people's  skins  into  blackness  ?" 
Whereupon  he  was  shown  my  cork  topee,  which  he 
tried  on  his  woolly  head,  much  to  his  own  and  to  our 
amusement.  The  guns  were  next  shown  to  him  ;  the 
wonderful  repeating  rifle  of  the  Winchester  Company, 
which  was  fired  thirteen  times  in  rapid  succession  to 
demonstrate  its  remarkable  murderous  powers.  If  he 
was  astonished  before  he  was  a  thousand  times  more  so 
now,  and  expressed  his  belief  that  the  Wagogo  could 
not  stand  before  the  Musungu  in  battle,  for  wherever  a 
Mgogo  was  seen  such  a  gun  would  surely  kill  him. 
Then  the  other  firearms  were  brough  tforth,  each  with 
its  peculiar  mechanism  explained,  until,  in  a  burst  of 
enthusiasm  at  my  riches  and  power,  he  said  he  would 
send  me  a  sheep  or  goat,  and  that  he  would  be  my 
brother.  I  thanked  him  for  the  honor,  and  promised  to 
accept  whatever  he  was  pleased  to  send  me.  At  the 
instigation  of  Sheikh  Thani,  who  acted  as  interpreter, 
who  said  that  Wagogo  chiefs  must  not  depart  with 

o 


194 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


empty  hands,  I  cut  off  a  shukka  of  Kaniki  and  pre- 
sented it  to  him,  which,  after  being  examined  and 
measured,  was  refused  upon  the  ground  that,  the 
Musungu  being  a  great  sultan  should  not  demean 
himself  so  much  as  to  give  him  only  a  shukka.  This, 
after  the  twelve  doti  received  as  muhongo  from  the 
caravans,  I  thought,  was  rather  sore ;  but  as  he  was 
about  to  present  me  with  a  sheep  or  goat  another 
shukka  would  not  matter  much. 

Shortly  after  he  departed,  and  true  to  his  promise, 
I  received  a  large,  fine  sheep,  with  a  broad  tail,  heavy 
with  fat ;  but  with  the  words,  "  That  being  now  his 
brother,  I  must  send  him  three  doti  of  good  cloth.''  As 
the  price  of  a  sheep  is  but  a  doti  and  a  half,  I  refused 
the  sheep  and  the  fraternal  honor,  upon  the  ground 
that  the  gifts  were  all  on  one  side ;  and  that,  as  I  had 
paid  muhongo,  and  given  him  a  doti  of  Kaniki  as  a 
present,  I  could  not  afford  to  part  with  any  more  cloth 
without  an  adequate  return. 

During  the  afternoon  one  more  of  my  donkeys  died, 
and  at  night  the  hyaenas  came  in  great  numbers  to  feast 
upon  the  carcase.  Ulimengo,  the  chasseur,  and  best 
shot  of  my  Wangwanas,  stole  out  and  suceeded  in 
shooting  two,  which  turned  out  to  be  some  of  the 
largest  of  their  kind.  One  of  them  measured  six  feet 
from  the  tip  of  the  nose  to  the  extremity  of  the  tail, 
and  three  feet  around  the  girth. 

On  the  4th  June  we  struck  camp,  and  after  travelling 
westward  for  about  three  miles,  passing  several  ponds  of 
salt  water,  we  headed  north  by  west,  skirting  the  range 
of  low  hills  which  separates  Ugogo  from  Uyanzi. 

After  a  three  hours'  march,  we  halted  for  a  short  time 
at  Little  Mukondoku,  to  settle  tribute  with  the  brother 
of  him  who  rules  at  Mukondoku  Proper.    Three  doti 


Tune,  1871.]       THROUGH  UOOGO  TO  UNTANYEMBE.  195 


satisfied  the  Sultan,  whose  district  contains  but  two  vil- 
lages, mostly  occupied  by  pastoral  Wahumba  and  renegade 
Wahehe.  The  Wahumba  live  in  plastered  (cow-dung) 
cone  huts,  shaped  like  the  Tartar  tents  of  Turkestan. 

The  Wahumba,  so  far  as  I  have  seen  them,  are  a  fine 
and  well-formed  race.  The  men  are  positively  hand- 
some, tall,  with  small  heads,  the  posterior  parts  of 
which  project  considerably.  One  will  look  in  vain  for 
a  thick  lip  or  a  flat  nose  amongst  them  ;  on  the  con- 
trary, the  mouth  is  exceedingly  well  cut,  delicately 
small ;  the  nose  is  that  of  the  Greeks,  and  so  universal 
was  the  peculiar  feature,  that  I  at  once  named  them 
the  Greeks  of  Africa.  Their  lower  limbs  have  not  the 
heaviness  of  the  Wagogo  and  other  tribes,  but  are  long 
and  shapely,  clean  as  those  of  an  antelope.  Their  necks 
are  long  and  slender,  on  which  their  small  heads  are 
poised  most  gracefully.  Athletes  from  their  youth, 
shepherd  bred,  and  intermarrying  among  themselves, 
thus  keeping  the  race  pure,  any  of  them  would  form  a 
fit  subject  for  the  sculptor  who  would  wish  to  immor- 
talize in  marble  an  Antinous,  a  Hylas,  a  Daphnis,  or 
an  Apollo.  The  women  are  as  beautiful  as  the  men 
are  handsome.  They  have  clear  ebon  skins,  not  coal- 
black,  but  of  an  inky  hue.  Their  ornaments  consist  of 
spiral  rings  of  brass  pendent  from  the  ears,  brass  ring 
collars  about  the  necks,  and  a  spiral  cincture  of  brass 
wire  about  their  loins  for  the  purpose  of  retaining  their 
calf  and  goat  skins,  which  are  folded  about  their  bodies, 
and,  depending  from  the  shoulder,  shade  one  half  of 
the  bosom,  and  fall  to  the  knees. 

The  Wahehe  may  be  styled  the  Romans  of  Africa. 

Resuming  our  march,  after  a  halt  of  an  hour,  in 
four  hours  more  we  arrived  at  Mukondoku  Proper. 
This  extremity  of  Ugogo  is   most   populous.  The 

o  2 


193 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


villages  which  surround  the  central  tembe,  where  the 
Sultan  Swaruru  lives,  amount  to  thirty-six.  The 
people  who  flocked  from  these  to  see  the  wonderful 
men  whose  faces  were  white,  who  wore  the  most 
wonderful  things  on  their  persons,  and  possessed  the 
most  wonderful  weapons;  guns  which  "bum -bum- 
med "  as  fast  as  you  could  count  on  your  fingers, 
formed  such  a  mob  of  howling  savages,  that  I  for  an 
instant  thought  there  was  something  besides  mere 
curiosity  which  caused  such  commotion,  and  attracted 
such  numbers  to  the  roadside.  Halting,  I  asked  what 
was  the  matter,  and  what  they  wanted,  and  why  they 
made  such  noise  ?  One  burly  rascal,  taking  my  words 
for  a  declaration  of  hostilities,  promptly  drew  his  bow, 
but  as  prompt  as  he  had  fixed  his  arrow  my  faithful 
Winchester  with  thirteen  shots  in  the  magazine  was 
ready  and  at  the  shoulder,  and  but  waited  to  see  the 
arrow  fly  to  pour  the  leaden  messengers  of  death  into 
the  crowd.  But  the  crowd  vanished  as  quickly  as  they 
had  come,  leaving  the  burly  Thersites,  and  two  or  three 
irresolute  fellows  of  his  tribe,  standing  within  pistol 
range  of  my  levelled  rifle.  Such  a  sudden  dispersion 
of  the  mob  which,  but  a  moment  before,  was  over- 
whelming in  numbers,  caused  me  to  lower  my  rifle,  and 
to  indulge  in  a  hearty  laugh  at  the  disgraceful  flight  of 
the  men-destroyers.  The  Arabs,  who  were  as  much 
alarmed  at  their  boisterous  obtrusiveness,  now  came  up 
to  patch  a  truce,  in  w^hich  they  succeeded  to  everybody's 
satisfaction.  A  few  words  of  explanation,  and  the  mob 
came  back  in  greater  numbers  than  before  ;  and  the 
Thersites  wTho  had  been  the  cause  of  the  momentary 
disturbance  was  obliged  to  retire  abashed  before  the 
pressure  of  public  opinion.  A  chief  now  came  up, 
whom  I  afterwards  learned  was  the  second  man  to 


June,  1871.]      THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  197 


Swaruru,  and  lectured  the  people  upon  their  treatment 
of  the  "White  Stranger/' 

"Know  ye  not,  Wagogo,"  shouted  he,  "that  this 
Musungu  is  a  sultan  (mtemi — a  ino.st  high  title).  He 
has  not  come  to  Ugogo  like  the  Wakonongo  (Arabs), 
to  trade  in  ivory,  but  to  see  us,  and  give  presents. 
Why  do  you  molest  him  and  his  people  ?  Let 
them  pass  in  peace.  If  you  wish  to  see  him,  draw 
near,  but  do  not  mock  him.  The  first  of  you  who 
creates  a  disturbance,  let  him  beware ;  our  great  mtemi 
shall  know  how  you  treat  his  friends."  This  little  bit  of 
oratorical  effort  on  the  part  of  the  chief  was  translated 
to  me  there  and  then  by  the  old  Sheikh  Thani ;  which 
having  understood,  I  bade  the  Sheikh  inform  the  chief 
that,  after  I  had  rested,  I  should  like  him  to  visit  me 
in  my  tent. 

Having  arrived  at  the  khambi,  which  always  sur- 
rounds some  great  baobab  in  Ugogo,  at  the  distance  of 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  tembe  of  the  Sultan,  the 
Wagogo  pressed  in  such  great  numbers  to  the  camp,  that 
Sheikh  Thani  resolved  to  make  an  effort  to  stop  or 
mitigate  the  nuisance.  Dressing  himself  in  his  best 
clothes,  he  went  to  appeal  to  the  Sultan  for  protection 
against  his  people.  The  Sultan  was  very  much  inebri- 
ated, and  was  pleased  to  say,  "  What  is  it  you  want, 
you  thief?  You  have  come  to  steal  my  ivory  or  my 
cloth.  Go  away,  thief !"  But  the  sensible  chief,  whose 
voice  had  just  been  heard  reproaching  the  people  for 
their  treatment  of  the  Wasungu,  beckoned  to  Sheikh 
Thani  to  come  out  of  the  tembe,  and  then  proceeded 
with  him  towards  the  khambi. 

The  camp  was  in  a  great  uproar ;  the  curious  Wagogo 
monopolized  almost  every  foot  of  ground  ;  there  was  no 
room  to  turn  anywhere.   The  Wanyamwezi  were  quar- 


198 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


rel ling  with  the  Wagogo,  the  Wasawahili  servants  were 
clamouring  loud  that  the  Wagogo  pressed  down  their 
tents,  and  that  the  property  of  the  masters  was  in 
danger ;  while  I,  busy  on  my  diary  within  my  tent, 
cared  not  how  great  was  the  noise  and  confusion  out- 
side as  long  as  it  confined  itself  to  the  Wagogo,  Wan- 
yam  wezi,  and  Wangwana. 

The  presence  of  the  chief  in  the  camp  was  followed 
by  such  a  deep  silence  that  I  was  prevailed  upon  to  go 
outside  to  see  what  had  caused  it.  The  chief's  words 
were  few,  and  to  the  point.  He  said,  "  To  your  tembes, 
Wagogo  —  to  your  tembes  !  Why  do  you  come  to 
trouble  the  Wakonongo  ?  What  have  you  to  do  with 
them  ?  To  your  tembes  :  go  !  Each  Mgogo  found  in 
the  khambi  without  meal,  without  cattle  to  sell,  shall 
pay  to  the  mtemi  cloth  or  cows.  Away  with  you!" 
Saying  which,  he  snatched  up  a  stick  and  drove  the 
hundreds  out  of  the  khambi,  who  were  as  obedient  to 
him  as  so  many  children.  During  the  two  days  we 
halted  at  Mukondoku  we  saw  no  more  of  the  mob,  and 
there  was  peace. 

The  muhongo  of  the  Sultan  Swaruru  was  settled 
with  few  words.  The  chief  who  acted  for  the  Sultan  as 
his  prime  minister  having  been  " made  glad"  with  a 
doti  of  Rehani  Ulyah  from  me,  accepted  the  usual  tri- 
bute of  six  doti,  only  one  of  which  was  of  first-class 
cloth. 

There  remained  but  one  more  sultan  to  whom  mu- 
hongo must  be  paid  after  Mukondoku,  and  this  was  the 
Sultan  of  Kiwyeh,  whose  reputation  was  so  bad  that 
owners  of  property  who  had  control  over  their  pagazis 
seldom  passed  by  Kiwyeh,  preferring  the  hardships  of 
long  marches  through  the  wilderness  to  the  rudeness 
nnd  exorbitant  demands  of  the  chief  of  Kiwyeh.  But 


Junk,  1871.]       THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  199 

the  pagazis,  on  whom  no  burden  or  responsibility  fell 
save  that  of  carrying  their  loads,  who  could  use  their 
legs  and  show  clean  heels  in  the  case  of  a  hostile  out- 
break, preferred  the  march  to  Kiwyeh  to  enduring  thirst 
and  the  fatigue  of  a  terekeza.  Often  the  preference  of 
the  pagazis  won  the  day,  when  their  employers  were 
timid,  irresolute  men,  like  Sheikh  Hamed. 

The  7th  of  June  was  the  day  fixed  for  our  departure 
from  Mukondoku,  so  the  day  before,  the  Arabs  came  to 
my  tent  to  counsel  with  me  as  to  the  route  we  should 
adopt.  On  calling  together  the  kirangozis  of  the  re- 
spective caravans  and  veteran  Wanyamwezi  pagazis,  we 
learned  there  were  three  roads  leading  from  Mukon- 
doku to  Uyanzi.  The  first  was  the  southern  road,  and 
the  one  generally  adopted,  for  the  reasons  already  stated, 
and  led  by  Kiwyeh.  To  this  Hamed  raised  objections. 
"  The  Sultan  was  bad,"  he  said  ;  "  he  sometimes  charged 
a  caravan  twenty  doti ;  our  caravan  would  have  to  pay 
about  sixty  doti.  The  Kiwyeh  road  would  not  do  at  all. 
Besides,"  he  added,  "  we  have  to  make  a  terekeza  to 
reach  Kiwyeh,  and  then  we  will  not  reach  it  before  the 
day  after  to-morrow."  The  second  was  the  central  road. 
We  should  arrive  at  Munieka  on  the  morrow ;  the  day 
after  would  be  a  terekeza  from  Mabunguru  Nullah  to  a 
camp  near  Unyambogi ;  two  hours  the  next  day  would 
bring  us  to  Kiti,  where  there  was  plenty  of  water  and 
food.  As  neither  of  the  kirangozis  or  Arabs  knew  this 
road,  and  its  description  came  from  one  of  my  ancient 
pagazis,  Hamed  said  he  did  not  like  to  trust  the 
guidance  of  such  a  large  caravan  in  the  hands  of  an  old 
Unyamwezi,  and  would  therefore  prefer  to  hear  about 
the  third  road,  before  rendering  his  decision.  The  third 
road  was  the  northern.  It  led  past  numerous  villages 
of  the  Wagogo  for  the  first  two  hours ;  then  we  should 


200 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


strike  a  jungle ;  and  a  three  hours'  march  would  then 
bring  us  to  Simbo,  where  there  was  water,  but  no  village. 
Starting  early  next  morning,  we  would  travel  six  hours, 
when  we  would  arrive  at  a  pool  of  water.  Here  taking 
a  short  rest,  an  afternoon  march  of  five  hours  would 
bring  us  within  three  hours  of  another  village.  As  this 
last  road  was  known  to  many,  Hamed  said,  "  Sheikh 
Thani,  tell  the  Sahib  that  I  think  this  is  the  best 
road."  Sheikh  Thani  was  told,  after  he  had  informed 
me  that,  as  I  had  marched  with  them  through  Ugogo, 
if  they  decided  upon  going  by  Simbo,  my  caravan  would 
follow. 

The  routes  being  settled  after  much  discussion,  I 
took  compass  bearings  of  the  respective  points.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  I  said  Mukondoku  had  been 
reached  after  a  three  hours'  march  direct  west  from 
Mizanza,  that  we  had  then  travelled  for  about  four  hours 
and  a  quarter  north  by  west,  skirting  the  base  of  a  ridge 
which  ran  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Kanyenyi  north  by 
west  to  the  borders  of  Uhumba,  and  which  served  as  a 
boundary  line  between  Ugogo  and  the  adjacent  land  of 
the  Wayanzi.  Mukondoku  was  but  two  miles  on  the 
eastern  side  from  this  ridge  :  Kiwyeh  pointed  S.S.W. 
from  Mukondoku,  thence  was  a  march  of  seven  days 
to  Kusuri.  The  direction  of  Simbo  was  N.N.W., 
thence  to  Kusuri  was  a  march  of  six  days.  It  is  thus 
obvious  enough  that  the  shortest  road  was  the  one  by 
Kiti,  and  the  only  objection  to  it  was  that  it  was 
unknown  to  any  of  the  Arabs  or  kirangozis. 

Immediately  after  the  discussion  among  the  principals 
respecting  the  merits  of  the  several  routes,  arose  a  dis- 
cussion among  the  pagazis  which  resulted  in  an  obsti- 
nate clamour  against  the  Simbo  road,  for  its  long 
terekeza  and  scant  prospects  of  water,  the  dislike  to  the 


June,  1871.]      THROUGH  UGOGO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  201 


Simbo  road  communicated  itself  to  all  the  caravans, 
and  soon  it  was  magnified  by  reports  of  a  wilderness 
reaching  from  Simbo  to  Kusuri,  where  there  was 
neither  food  nor  water  to  be  obtained.  Hamed's 
pagazis,  and  those  of  the  Arab  servants,  rose  in  a  body 
and  declared  they  could  not  go  on  that  march,  and  if 
Hamed  insisted  upon  adopting  it  they  would  put  their 
packs  down  and  leave  him  to  carry  them  himself. 

Hamed  Kimiani,  as  he  was  styled  by  the  Arabs, 
rushed  up  to  Sheikh  Thani,  and  declared  that  he  must 
take  the  Kiwyeh  road,  otherwise  his  pagazis  would  all 
desert.  Thani  replied  that  all  the  roads  were  the  same 
to  him,  that  wherever  Hamed  chose  to  go,  he  would 
follow.  They  then  came  to  my  tent,  and  informed  me  of 
the  determination  at  which  the  Wanyamwezi  had  arrived. 
Calling  my  veteran  Mnyamwezi  who  had  given  me 
the  favourable  report  once  more  to  my  tent,  I  bade  him 
give  a  correct  account  of  the  Kiti  road.  It  was  so 
favourable  that  my  reply  to  Hamed  was,  that  I  was  the 
master  of  my  caravan,  that  it  was  to  go  wherever  I 
told  the  kirangozi,  not  where  the  pagazis  chose ;  that 
when  I  told  them  to  halt  they  must  halt,  and  when  I 
commanded  a  march,  a  march  should  be  made ;  and 
that  as  I  fed  them  well  and  did  not  overwork  them,  1 
should  like  to  see  the  pagazi  or  soldier  that  disobeyed 
me.  "  You  made  up  your  mind  just  now  that  you 
would  take  the  Simbo  road,  and  we  were  agreed  upon 
it,  now  your  pagazis  say  they  will  take  the  Kiwyeh 
road,  or  desert.  Go  on  the  Kiwyeh  road  and  pay 
twenty  doti  muhongo.  I  and  my  caravan  to-morrow 
morning  will  take  the  Kiti  road,  and  when  you  find  me 
in  Unyanyembe  one  day  ahead  of  you,  you  will  be  sorry 
you  did  not  take  the  same  road." 

This  resolution  of  mine  had  the  effect  of  again  changing 


202 


IiOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  current  of  Hamed's  thoughts,  for  he  instantly  said, 
44  That  is  the  best  road  after  all,  and  as  the  Sahib  is  de- 
termined to  go  on  it,  and  we  have  all  travelled  together 
through  the  bad  land  of  the  Wagogo,  Inshallah !  let  us 
all  go  the  same  way,"  and  Thani — good  old  man — not 
objecting,  and  Hamed  having  decided,  they  both  joy- 
fully went  out  of  the  tent  to  communicate  the  news. 

On  the  7th  the  caravans — apparently  unanimous  that 
the  Kiti  road  was  to  be  taken — were  led  as  usual 
by  Hamed's  kirangozi.  We  had  barely  gone  a  mile 
before  I  perceived  that  we  had  left  the  Simbo  road,  had 
taken  the  direction  of  Kiti,  and,  by  a  cunning  detour, 
were  now  fast  approaching  the  defile  of  the  mountain 
ridge  before  us,  which  admitted  access  to  the  higher 
plateau  of  Kiwyeh.  Instantly  halting  my  caravan, 
I  summoned  the  veteran  who  had  travelled  by  Kiti,  and 
asked  him  whether  we  were  not  going  towards  Kiwyeh. 
He  replied  that  we  were.  Calling  my  pagazis  together, 
I  bade  Bombay  tell  them  that  the  Musungu  never 
changed  his  mind  ;  that  as  I  had  said  my  caravan  should 
march  by  Kiti,  to  Kiti  it  must  go  whether  the  Arabs 
followed  or  not.  I  then  ordered  the  veteran  to  take  up 
his  load  and  show  the  kirangozi  the  proper  road  to 
Kiti.  The  Wanyamwezi  pagazis  put  down  their  bales, 
and  then  there  was  every  indication  of  a  mutiny.  The 
Wangwana  soldiers  were  next  ordered  to  load  their 
guns  and  to  flank  the  caravan,  and  shoot  the  first 
pagazis  who  made  an  attempt  to  run  away.  Dis- 
mounting, I  seized  my  whip,  and,  advancing  towards 
the  first  pagazi  who  had  put  down  his  load,  I  motioned  to 
him  to  take  up  his  load  and  march.  It  was  unnecessary 
to  proceed  further ;  without  an  exception,  all  inarched 
away  obediently  after  the  kirangozi.  I  was  about  bid- 
ding farewell  to  Thani  and  Hamed,  when  Thani  said, 


June,  1871.]       THROUGH  UGOOO  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  203 

u  Stop  a  bit,  Sahib ;  I  have  had  enough  of  this  child's 
play  ;  I  come  with  you,"  and  his  caravan  was  turned 
after  mine.  Hamed's  caravan  was  by  this  time  close 
to  the  defile,  and  he  himself  was  a  full  mile  behind  it, 
weeping  like  a  child  at  what  he  was  pleased  to  call  our 
desertion  of  him.  Pitying  his  strait — for  he  was  almost 
beside  himself  as  thoughts  of  Kiwyeh's  sultan,  his  ex- 
tortion and  rudeness,  swept  across  his  mind — I  advised 
him  to  run  after  his  caravan,  and  tell  it,  as  all  the 
rest  had  taken  the  other  road,  to  think  of  the  Sultan  of 
Kiwyeh.  Before  reaching  the  Kiti  defile  I  was  aware 
that  Hamed's  caravan  was  following  us. 

The  ascent  of  the  ridge  was  rugged  and  steep,  thorns 
of  the  prickliest  nature  punished  us  severely,  the  acacia 
horrida  was  here  more  horrid  than  usual,  the  gums 
stretched  out  their  branches,  and  entangled  the  loads, 
the  mimosa  with  its  umbrella-like  top  served  to  shade 
us  from  the  sun,  but  impeded  a  rapid  advance.  Steep 
outcrops  of  syenite  and  granite,  worn  smooth  by  many 
feet,  had  to  be  climbed  over,  rugged  terraces  of  earth 
and  rock  had  to  be  ascended,  and  distant  shots  resound- 
ing through  the  forest  added  to  the  alarm  and  general 
discontent,  and  had  I  not  been  immediately  behind  my 
caravan,  watchful  of  every  manoeuvre,  my  Wanyamwezi 
had  deserted  to  a  man. 

Though  the  height  we  ascended  was  barely  800 
feet  above  the  salina  we  had  just  left,  the  ascent 
occupied  two  hours. 

Having  surmounted  the  plateau  and  the  worst  dif- 
ficulties, we  had  a  fair  road  comparatively,  which  ran 
through  jungle,  forest,  and  small  open  tracts,  which  in 
three  hours  more  brought  us  to  Munieka,  a  small 
village,  surrounded  by  a  clearing  richly  cultivated  by  a 
colony  of  subjects  of  Swaruru  of  Mukondoku. 


204 


BOW  1  FOUND  L1VINGST0NL. 


By  the  time  we  had  arrived  at  camp  everybody  had 
recovered  his  good  humour  and  content  except  Achmet. 
Thani's  men  happened  to  set  his  tent  too  close  to 
Hamed's  tree,  around  which  his  bales  were  stacked. 
Whether  the  little  Sheikh  imagined  honest  old  Thani 
capable  of  stealing  one  is  not  known,  but  it  is  certain 
that  he  stormed  and  raved  about  the  near  neighbour- 
hood of  his  best  friend's  tent,  until  Thani  ordered  its 
removal  a  hundred  yards  off.  This  proceeding  even,  it 
seems,  did  not  satisfy  Hamed,  for  it  was  quite  midnight 
— as  Thani  said — when  Hamed  came,  and  kissing  his 
hands  and  feet,  on  his  knees  implored  forgiveness,  which 
of  course  Thani,  being  the  soul  of  good-nature,  and  as 
large-hearted  as  any  man,  willingly  gave.  Hamed  was 
not  satisfied,  however,  until,  with  the  aid  of  his  slaves, 
he  had  transported  his  friend's  tent  to  where  it  had  at 
first  been  pitched. 

The  water  at  Munieka  was  obtained  from  a  deep 
depression  in  a  hump  of  syenite,  and  was  as  clear  as 
crystal,  and  cold  as  ice-water — a  luxury  we  had  not 
experienced  since  leaving  Simbamwenni. 

We  were  now  on  the  borders  of  Uyanzi,  or,  as  it  is 
better  known,  44  Magunda  Mkali" — the  Hot-ground,  or 
Hot-field.  We  had  passed  the  village  populated  by 
Wagogo,  and  were  about  to  shake  the  dust  of  Ugogo 
from  our  feet.  We  had  entered  Ugogo  full  of  hopes, 
believing  it  a  most  pleasant  land  — a  land  flowing  with 
milk  and  honey.  We  had  been  grievously  disap- 
pointed ;  it  proved  to  be  a  land  of  gall  and  bitterness, 
full  of  trouble  and  vexation  of  spirit,  where  danger  was 
imminent  at  every  step — where  we  were  exposed  to  the 
caprice  of  inebriated  sultans.  Is  it  a  wonder,  then,  that 
all  felt  happy  at  such  a  moment  ?  With  the  prospect 
before  us  of  what  was  believed  by  many  to  be  a  real 


June,  1871.]      MAG  UN  DA  MKALI  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  205 


wilderness,  our  ardour  was  not  abated,  but  was  rather 
strengthened.  The  wilderness  in  Africa  proves  to  be, 
in  many  instances,  more  friendly  than  the  populated 
country. 

The  kirangozi  blew  his  Kudu  horn  much  more  mer- 
rily on  this  morning  than  he  was  accustomed  to  do 
while  in  Ugogo.  We  were  about  to  enter  Magunda 
Mkali.  At  9  a.m.,  three  hours  after  leaving  Munieka, 
and  two  hours  since  we  had  left  the  extreme  limits  of 
Ugogo,  we  were  halted  at  Mabunguru  Nullah.  The 
Nullah  runs  south-westerly  after  leaving  its  source  in 
the  chain  of  hills  dividing  Ugogo  from  Magunda 
Mkali.  During  the  rainy  season  it  must  be  nearly 
impassable,  owing  to  the  excessive  slope  of  its  bed. 
Traces  of  the  force  of  the  torrent  are  seen  in  the 
syenite  and  basalt  boulders  which  encumber  the  course. 
Their  rugged  angles  are  worn  smooth,  and  deep  basins 
are  excavated  where  the  bed  is  of  the  rock,  which  in 
the  dry  season  serve  as  reservoirs.  Though  the  water 
contained  in  them  has  a  slimy  and  greenish  appearance, 
and  is  well  populated  with  frogs,  it  is  by  no  means  un- 
palatable. 

At  noon  we  resumed  our  march,  the  Wanyamwezi 
cheering,  shouting,  and  singing,  the  Wangwana  soldiers, 
servants,  and  pagazis  vieing  with  them  in  volume  of 
voice  and  noise — making  the  dim  forest  through  which 
we  were  now  passing,  resonant  with  their  voices. 

The  scenery  was  much  more  picturesque  than  any 
we  had  yet  seen  since  leaving  Bagamoyo.  The  ground 
rose  into  grander  waves — hills  cropped  out  here  and 
there — great  castles  of  syenite  appeared,  giving  a  strange 
and  weird  appearance  to  the  forest.  From  a  distance 
it  would  almost  seem  as  if  we  were  approaching  a  bit  of 
England  as  it  must  have  appeared  during  feudalism  ; 


206 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  rocks  assumed  such  strange  fantastic  shapes.  Now 
they  were  round  boulders  raised  one  above  another, 
apparently  susceptible  to  every  breath  of  wind;  anon, 
they  towered  like  blunt-pointed  obelisks,  taller  than  the 
tallest  trees ;  again  they  assumed  the  shape  of  mighty 
waves,  vitrified ;  here,  they  were  a  small  heap  of  frac- 
tured and  riven  rock ;  there,  they  rose  to  the  grandeur 
of  hills. 

By  5  p.m.  we  had  travelled  twenty  miles,  and  the 
signal  was  sounded  for  a  halt.  At  1  a.m.,  the  moon 
being  up,  Hamed's  horn  and  voice  were  heard  through- 
out the  silent  camp  awaking  his  pagazis  for  the  march. 
Evidently  Sheikh  Hamed  was  gone  stark  mad,  other- 
wise why  should  he  be  so  frantic  for  the  march  at  such 
an  early  hour?  The  dew  was  falling  heavily,  and 
chilled  one  like  frost ;  and  an  ominous  murmur  of  deep 
discontent  responded  to  the  early  call  on  all  sides.  Pre- 
suming, however,  that  he  had  obtained  better  information 
than  we  had,  Sheikh  Thani  and  I  resolved  to  be  governed 
as  the  events  proved  him  to  be  right  or  wrong. 

As  all  were  discontented,  this  night  march  was  per- 
formed in  deep  silence.  The  thermometer  was  at  53°, 
we  being  about  4,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  pagazis,  almost  naked,  walked  quickly  in  order  to 
keep  warm,  and  by  so  doing  many  a  sore  foot  was 
made  by  stumbling  against  obtrusive  roots  and  rocks, 
and  treading  on  thorns.  At  3  a.m.  we  arrived  at  the 
village  of  Unyambogi,  where  we  threw  ourselves  down 
to  rest  and  sleep,  until  dawn  should  reveal  what  else 
was  in  store  for  the  hard-dealt  with  caravans. 

It  was  broad  daylight  when  I  awoke ;  the  sun  was 
flaring  his  hot  beams  in  my  face.  Sheikh  Thani  came 
soon  after  to  inform  me  that  Hamed  had  gone  to  Kiti 
two  hours  since  ;  but  he,  when  asked  to  accompany 


June,  1871,]     MAGUNDA  MKALI  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  207 


him,  positively  refused,  exclaiming  against  it  as  folly, 
and  utterly  unnecessary,  when  my  advice  was  asked  by 
Thani.  I  voted  the  whole  thing  as  sheer  nonsense  ; 
and,  in  turn,  asked  him  what  a  terekeza  was  for  ? 
Was  it  not  an  afternoon  march  to  enable  caravans  to 
reach  water  and  food  ?  Thani  replied  that  it  was. 
I  then  asked  him  if  there  was  no  water  or  food  to  be 
obtained  in  Unyambogi.  Thani  replied  that  he  had 
not  taken  pains  to  inquire,  but  was  told  by  the  villagers 
that  there  was  an  abundance  of  matama,  hindi,  maweri, 
sheep,  goats,  and  chickens  in  their  village  at  cheap 
prices,  such  as  were  not  known  in  Ugogo. 

"  Well,  then,"  said  I,  "  if  Hamed  wants  to  be  a  fool, 
and  kill  his  pagazis,  why  should  we  ?  I  have  as  much 
cause  for  haste  as  Sheikh  Hamed ;  but  Unyanyembe 
is  far  yet,  and  I  am  not  going  to  endanger  my 
property  by  playing  the  madman." 

As  Thani  had  reported,  we  found  an  abundance 
of  provisions  at  the  village,  and  good  sweet  water 
from  some  pits  close  by.  A  sheep  cost  one  shukka ;  six 
chickens  were  also  purchased  at  that  price  ;  six  measures 
of  matama,  maweri,  or  hindi,  were  procurable  for  the 
same  sum ;  in  short,  we  were  coming,  at  last,  into 
the  land  of  plenty. 

On  the  10th  June  we  arrived  at  Kiti  after  a  journey 
of  four  hours  and  a  half,  where  we  found  the  irrepres- 
sible Hamed  halted  in  sore  trouble.  He  who  would  be 
a  Caesar,  proved  to  be  an  irresolute  Antony.  He  had 
to  sorrow  over  the  death  of  a  favourite  slave  girl,  the 
loss  of  five  dish-dashes  (Arab  shirts),  silvered-sleeve  and 
gold-embroidered  jackets,  with  which  he  had  thought  to 
enter  Unyanyembe  in  state,  as  became  a  merchant  of 
his  standing,  which  had  disappeared  with  three  ab- 
sconding servants,  besides  copper  trays,  rice,  and  pilau 


208 


IIOW  l  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


dishes,  and  two  bales  of  cloth  with  runawa\  Wan- 
gwana  pagazis.  Selim,  my  Arab  interpreter,  asked 
him,  "  What  are  you  doing  here,  Sheikh  Hamed  ? 
I  thought  you  were  well  on  the  road  to  Unyanyembe." 
Said  he,  "  Could  I  leave  Thani,  my  friend,  behind  ?" 

Kiti  abounded  in  cattle  and  grain,  and  we  were 
able  to  obtain  food  at  easy  rates.  The  Wakimbu, 
emigrants  from  Ukimbu,  near  Urori,  are  a  quiet  race, 
preferring  the  peaceful  arts  of  agriculture  to  war ;  of 
tending  their  flocks  to  conquest.  At  the  least  rumor 
of  war  they  remove  their  property  and  family,  and 
emigrate  to  the  distant  wilderness,  where  they  begin 
to  clear  the  land,  and  to  hunt  the  elephant  for  his 
ivory.  Yet  we  found  them  to  be  a  fine  race,  and 
well  armed,  and  seemingly  capable,  by  their  numbers 
and  arms,  to  compete  with  any  tribe.  But  here,  as 
elsewhere,  disunion  makes  them  weak.  They  are  mere 
small  colonies,  each  colony  ruled  by  its  own  chief; 
whereas,  were  they  united,  they  might  make  a  very 
respectable  front  before  an  enemy. 

Our  next  destination  was  Msalalo,  distant  fifteen 
miles  from  Kiti.  Hamed,  after  vainly  searching  for 
his  runaways  and  the  valuable  property  he  had  lost, 
followed  us,  and  tried  once  more,  when  he  saw  us 
encamped  at  Msalalo,  to  pass  us ;  but  his  pagazis  failed 
him,  the  march  having  been  so  long. 

Welled  Ngaraiso  was  reached  on  the  15th,  after  a 
three  and  a  half  hours'  march.  It  is  a  flourishing 
little  place,  where  provisions  were  almost  twice  a 
cheap  as  they  were  at  Unyambogi.  Two  hours'  march 
south  is  Jiweh  la  Mkoa,  on  the  old  road,  towards  which 
the  road  which  we  have  been  travelling  since  leaving 
Bagamoyo  was  now  rapidly  leading. 

Unyanyembe  being  near,  the  pagazis  and  soldiers 


June,  1871.]    MAQUNDA  MEAL  I  TO  UNYA  NYEMBE.  209 


having  behaved  excellently  during  the  lengthy  marches 
we  had  lately  made,  I  purchased  a  bullock  for  three 
doti,  and  had  it  slaughtered  for  their  special  benefit. 
I  also  gave  each  a  khete  of  red  beads  to  indulge  his 
appetite  for  whatever  little  luxury  the  country  afforded. 
Milk  and  honey  were  plentiful,  and  three  frasilah  of 
sweet  potatoes  were  bought  for  a  shukka,  equal  to 
about  40  cents  of  our  money. 

The  13  th  June  brought  us  to  the  last  village  of 
Magunda  Mkali,  in  the  district  of  Jiweh  la  Singa,  after  a 
short  march  of  eight  miles  and  three-quarters.  Kusuri 
— so  called  by  the  Arabs — is  called  Konsuli  by  the 
Wakimbu  who  inhabit  it.  This  is,  however,  but  one 
instance  out  of  many  wThere  the  Arabs  have  misnamed 
or  corrupted  the  native  names  of  villages  and  districts. 

Between  Ngaraiso  and  Kusuri  we  passed  the  village 
of  Kirurumo,  now  a  thriving  place,  with  many  a 
thriving  village  near  it.  As  we  passed  it,  the  people 
came  out  to  greet  the  Musungu,  whose  advent  had  been 
so  long  heralded  by  his  loud-mouthed  caravans,  and 
whose  soldiers  had  helped  them  win  the  day  in  a  battle 
against  their  fractious  brothers  of  Jiweh  la  Mkoa. 

A  little  further  on  we  came  across  a  large  khambi, 
occupied  by  Sultan  bin  Mohammed,  an  Omani  Arab  of 
high  descent,  who,  as  soon  as  he  was  notified  of  my 
approach,  came  out  to  welcome  me,  and  invite  me  to  his 
khambi.  As  his  harem  lodged  in  his  tent,  of  course  I 
was  not  invited  thither ;  but  a  carpet  outside  was  ready 
for  his  visitor.  After  the  usual  questions  had  been 
asked  about  my  health,  the  news  of  the  road,  the  latest 
from  Zanzibar  and  Oman,  he  asked  me  if  I  had  much 
cloth  with  me.  This  was  a  question  often  asked  by 
owners  of  down  caravans,  and  the  reason  of  it  is  that 
the  Arabs,  in  their  anxiety  to  make  as  much  as  possible 

p 


210  SOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 

of  their  cloth  at  the  ivory  ports  on  the  Tanganika  and 
elsewhere,  are  liable  to  forget  that  they  should  retain  a 
portion  for  the  down  marches.  As,  indeed,  I  had  but  a 
bale  left  of  the  quantity  of  cloth  retained  for  provision- 
ing- my  party  on  the  road,  when  outfitting  my  caravans 
on  the  coast,  I  could  unblushingly  reply  in  the  negative. 
A  few  minutes  later  Sheikh  Hamed  was  announced, 
and  immediately  appeared,  making  a  profound  saluta- 
tion before  the  great  man,  with  great  pretensions  to 
kiss  his  hands,  and  his  "  Kaif  halek "  evinced  great 
anxiety  to  know  if  Sultan  bin  Mohammed  was  "  well — 
quite,  quite  well."  For  about  five  minutes  the  two  Arabs 
exchanged  anxious  inquiries  as  to  each  other's  health 
and  prospects.  Then  there  was  a  little  breathing  pause, 
and  the  same  question  which  had  been  propounded  to 
me  about  my  cloth  was  given  to  Hamed.  "  Very  little 
indeed,"  answered  the  Sheikh ;  and  yet  Sultan  bin  Mo- 
hammed and  I,  knew  well  that  he  had  fifty-five  bales 
with  his  caravan. 

The  stranger  Arab  sent  his  servant  with  a  goat's 
skin  full  of  the  beautiful  and  white  rice  of  Unyanyembe 
to  my  khambi  at  Kusuri,  a  gift  I  felt  very  much  dis- 
posed to  decline,  after  the  negative  I  had  been  com- 
pelled to  give  him.  He  also  offered  to  convey  any 
letters  or  small  parcels  I  might  wish  to  send  to 
Zanzibar ;  and,  on  being  informed  that  I  had  left  a 
white  man  sick  at  Mpwapwa,  he  promised  to  conduct 
him  to  Zanzibar. 

Soon  after  arriving  at  Kusuri,  a  party  of  Wasawahili 
elephant  hunters  settled  at  Jiweh  la  Singa,  paid  me  a 
visit,  under  the  leadership  of  an  old  man  who  had  once 
been  Diwan  of  Bagamoyo.  Though  they  brought  no- 
thing with  them  as  a  present,  they  did  not  fail  to  beg 
for  paper,  curry,  and  soap — three  things  I  could  very 


June,  1871.]    MAGUNDA  MKAL1  TO  UN YANYEMBE.  211 

ill  spare,  as  the  Makata  swamp  had  made  such  stock 
but  small. 

I  halted  a  day  at  Kusuri  to  give  my  caravan  a  rest, 
after  its  long  series  of  inarches,  before  venturing  on  the 
two  days'  march  through  the  uninhabited  wilderness 
that  separates  the  district  of  Jiweh  la  Singa  Uyanzi 
from  the  district  of  Tura  in  Unyanyembe.  Hamed 
preceded,  promising  to  give  Sayd  bin  Salim  notice  of 
my  coming,  and  to  request  him  to  provide  a  tembe 
for  me. 

On  the  15th,  having  ascertained  that  Sheikh  Thani 
would  be  detained  several  days  at  Kusuri,  owing  to  the 
excessive  number  of  his  people  who  were  laid  up  with 
that  dreadful  plague  of  East  Africa,  the  small-pox,  I 
bade  him  farewell,  and  my  caravan  struck  out  of  Kusuri 
once  more  for  the  wilderness  and  the  jungle.  A  little 
before  noon  we  halted  at  the  khambi  of  Mgongo  Tembo, 
or  the  Elephant's  Back — so  called  from  a  wave  of  rock 
whose  back,  stained  into  dark  brownness  by  atmospheric 
influences,  is  supposed  by  the  natives  to  resemble  the 
blue-brown  back  of  this  monster  of  the  forest.  My 
caravan  had  quite  an  argument  with  me  here,  as  to 
whether  we  should  make  the  terekeza  on  this  day  or 
on  the  next.  The  majority  was  of  the  opinion  that  the 
next  day  would  be  the  best  for  a  terekeza  ;  but  I,  being 
the  "  bana,"  consulting  my  own  interests,  insisted,  not 
without  a  flourish  or  two  of  my  whip,  that  the  terekeza 
should  be  made  on  this  day. 

Mgongo  Tembo,  when  Burton  and  Speke  passed  by, 
was  a  promising  settlement,  cultivating  many  a  fair  acre 
of  ground.  But  two  years  ago  war  broke  out,  for  some 
bold  act  of  its  people  upon  caravans,  and  the  Arabs 
came  from  Unyanyembe  with  their  Wangwana  servants, 
attacked  them,  burnt  the  villages,  and  laid  waste  the 

p  2 


212 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


work  of  years.  Since  that  time  Mgongo  Tembo  has 
been  but  blackened  wrecks  of  houses,  and  the  fields  a 
sprouting  jungle. 

A  cluster  of  date  palm-trees,  overtopping  a  dense 
grove  close  to  the  mtoni  of  Mgongo  Tembo,  revived 
my  recollections  of  Egypt.  The  banks  of  the  stream, 
with  their  verdant  foliage,  presented  a  strange  contrast 
to  the  brown  and  dry  appearance  of  the  jungle  which 
lay  on  either  side. 

At  1  p.m.  we  resumed  our  loads  and  walking  staffs, 
and  in  a  short  time  were  en  route  for  the  Nghwhalah 
Mtoni,  distant  eight  and  three  quarter  miles  from  the 
khambi.  The  sun  was  hot ;  like  a  globe  of  living, 
seething  flame,  it  flared  its  heat  full  on  our  heads ; 
then  as  it  descended  towards  the  west,  scorched  the  air 
before  it  was  inhaled  by  the  lungs  which  craved  it. 
Kibuyus  of  water  were  emptied  speedily  to  quench  the 
fierce  heat  that  burned  the  throat  and  lungs.  One 
pagazi,  stricken  heavily  with  the  small-pox,  succumbed, 
and  threw  himself  down  on  the  roadside  to  die.  We 
never  saw  him  afterwards,  for  the  progress  of  a  caravan 
on  a  terekeza,  is  something  like  that  of  a  ship  in  a 
hurricane.  The  caravan  must  proceed — woe  befall  him 
who  lags  behind,  for  hunger  and  thirst  will  overtake 
him — so  must  a  ship  drive  before  the  fierce  gale  to 
escape  foundering — woe  befall  him  who  falls  over- 
board ! 

An  abundance  of  water,  good,  sweet,  and  cool,  was 
found  in  the  bed  of  the  mtoni  in  deep  stony  reservoirs. 
Here  also  the  traces  of  furious  torrents  were  clearly 
visible  as  at  Mabunguru. 

The  Nghwhalah  commences  in  Ubanarama  to  the 
north — a  country  famous  for  its  fine  breed  of  donkeys — 
and  after  running  south,  south-south-west,  crosses  the 


June,  1871.]    MAQUNDA  MKALI  TO  UNYAN YEMBE.  2l£ 

Unyanyembe  road,  from  which  point  it  has  more  of  a 
westerly  turn. 

On  the  16th  we  arrived  at  Madedita,  so  called  from 
a  village  which  was,  but  is  now  no  more.  Madedita  is 
twelve  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Nghwhalah  Mtoni. 
A  pool  of  good  water  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the 
roadside  is  the  only  supply  caravans  can  obtain,  nearer 
than  Tura  in  Unyamwezi.  The  tsetse  or  chufwa-fly,  as 
called  by  the  Wasawahili,  stung  us  dreadfully,  which  is 
a  sign  that  large  game  visit  the  pool  sometimes,  but 
must  not  be  mistaken  for  an  indication  that  there  is 
any  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  water.  A 
single  pool  so  often  frequented  by  passing  caravans, 
which  must  of  necessity  halt  here,  could  not  be  often 
visited  by  the  animals  of  the  forest,  who  are  shy  in  this 
part  of  Africa  of  the  haunts  of  man. 

At  dawn  the  next  day  we  were  on  the  road  striding 
at  a  quicker  pace  than  on  most  days,  since  we  were 
about  to  quit  Magunda  Mkali  for  the  more  populated 
and  better  land  of  Unyamwezi.  The  forest  held  its 
own  for  a  wearisomely  long  time,  but  at  the  end  of 
two  hours  it  thinned,  then  dwarfed  into  low  jungle, 
and  finally  vanished  altogether,  and  we  had  arrived  on 
the  soil  of  Unyamwezi,  with  a  broad  plain,  swelling, 
subsiding,  and  receding  in  lengthy  and  grand  un- 
dulations in  our  front  to  one  indefinite  horizontal  line 
which  purpled  in  the  far  distance.  The  view  consisted 
of  fields  of  grain  ripening,  which  followed  the  contour 
of  the  plain,  and  which  rustled  merrily  before  the 
morning  breeze  that  came  laden  with  the  chills  of 
Usagara. 

At  8  a.m.  we  had  arrived  at  the  frontier  village  oi 
Unyamwezi,  Eastern  Tura,  which  we  invaded  without 
any  regard  to  the  disposition  of  the  few  inhabitants 


214 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


who  lived  there.  Here  we  found  Nondo,  a  runaway 
of  Speke's,  one  of  those  who  had  sided  with  Baraka 
against  Bombay,  who,  desiring  to  engage  himself  with 
me,  was  engaging  enough  to  furnish  honey  and  sherbet 
to  his  former  companions,  and  lastly  to  the  pagazis. 
It  was  only  a  short  breathing  pause  we  made  here, 
having  another  hour's  march  to  reach  Central  Tura. 

The  road  from  Eastern  Tura  led  through  vast  fields 
of  millet,  Indian  corn,  holcus  sorghum,  maweri,  or 
panicum,  or  bajri,  as  called  by  the  Arabs  ;  gardens  of 
sweet  potatoes,  large  tracts  of  cucumbers,  water-melons, 
mush-melons,  and  pea-nuts  which  grew  in  the  deep 
furrows  between  the  ridges  of  the  holcus. 

Some  broad-leafed  plantain  plants  were  also  seen  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  villages,  which  as  we  ad- 
vanced became  very  numerous.  The  villages  of  the 
Wakimbu  are  like  those  of  the  Wagogo,  square,  flat- 
roofed,  enclosing  an  open  area,  which  is  sometimes 
divided  into  three  or  four  parts  by  fences  of  matama 
stalks. 

At  Central  Tura,  where  we  encamped,  we  had  evi- 
dence enough  of  the  rascality  of  the  Wakimbu  of  Tura. 
Hamed,  who,  despite  his  efforts  to  reach  Unyanyembe 
in  time  to  sell  his  cloths  before  other  Arabs  came  with 
cloth  supplies,  was  unable  to  comj)el  his  pagazis  to  the 
double  march  every  day,  was  also  encamped  at  Central 
Tura,  together  with  the  Arab  servants  who  preferred 
Hamed' s  imbecile  haste,  to  Thani's  cautious  advance. 
Our  first  night  in  Unyamwezi  was  very  exciting  indeed. 
The  Musungu's  camp  was  visited  by  two  crawling 
thieves,  but  they  were  soon  made  aware  by  the  por- 
tentous click  of  a  trigger  that  the  white  man's  camp 
svas  well  guarded. 

Hamed's  camp  was  next  visited ;  but  here  also  the 


Juke,  1871.] 


TURA  TO  UNYANTEMBE. 


215 


restlessness  of  the  owner  frustrated  their  attempts,  for 
he  was  pacing  backwards  and  forwards  through  his 
camp,  with  a  loaded  gun  in  his  hand  ;  and  the  thieves 
were  obliged  to  relinquish  the  chance  of  stealing  any 
of  life  bales.  From  Hamed's  they  proceeded  to  Has- 
san's camp  (one  of  the  Arab  servants),  where  they  were 
successful  enough  to  reach  and  lay  hold  of  a  couple  of 
bales ;  but,  unfortunately,  they  made  a  noise,  which 
awoke  the  vigilant  and  quick-eared  slave,  who  snatched 
his  loaded  musket,  and  in  a  moment  had  shot  one  of 
them  through  the  heart.  Such  were  our  experiences  of 
the  Wakimbu  of  Tura. 

The  following  morning  the  neighbouring  villages 
were  made  aware  of  the  sad  accident  which  had  befallen 
their  number  ;  but  though  they  were  bold  thieves  by 
night,  they  proved  to  be  soulless  cowards  by  day,  and 
did  not  resent  the  deed  by  word  or  even  a  look.  This 
day  was  a  halt,  and  the  inhabitants  of  Tura  brought  to 
the  camp  such  abundant  stores  of  honey  and  ghee, 
sweet  potatoes  and  grain,  that  I  was  enabled  for  two 
doti  to  feast  my  men,  for  the  celebration  of  our  arrival 
in  Unyamwezi. 

On  the  18th  the  three  caravans,  Hamed's,  Hassan's, 
and  my  own,  left  Tura  by  a  road  which  zig-zagged 
towards  all  points  through  the  tall  matama  fields.  In 
an  hour's  time  we  had  passed  Tura  Perro,  or  Western 
Tura,  and  had  entered  the  forest  again,  whence  the 
Wakimbu  of  Tura  obtain  their  honey,  and  where 
they  excavate  deep  traps  for  the  elephants  with  which 
the  forest  is  said  to  abound.  An  hour's  march  from 
Western  Tura  brought  us  to  a  ziwa,  or  pond.  There 
were  two,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  small  open  nibuga, 
or  plain,  which,  even  at  this  late  season,  was  yet  soft 
from  the  water  which  overflows  it  during  the  rainy 


216 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


season.  After  resting  three  hours,  we  started  on  the 
terekeza,  or  afternoon  march. 

It  was  one  and  the  same  forest  that  we  had  entered 
soon  after  leaving  Western  Tura,  that  we  travelled 
through  until  we  reached  the  Kwala  Mtoni,  or,  as 
Burton  has  misnamed  it  on  his  map,  "  Kwale."  The 
water  of  this  mtoni  is  contained  in  large  ponds,  or 
deep  depressions  in  the  wide  and  crooked  gully  of 
Kwala.  In  these  ponds  a  species  of  mud-fish  was 
found,  off  one  of  which  I  made  a  meal,  by  no  means  to 
be  despised  by  one  who  had  not  tasted  fish  since  leaving 
Bagamoyo.  Probably,  if  I  had  my  choice,  being,  when 
occasion  demands  it,  rather  fastidious  in  my  tastes,  I 
would  not  select  the  mud-fish. 

From  Tura  to  the  Kwala  Mtoni  is  seventeen  and 
a  half  miles,  a  distance  which,  however  easy  it  may 
be  traversed  once  a  fortnight,  assumes  a  prodigious 
length  when  one  has  to  travel  it  almost  every  other  day, 
at  least,  so  my  pagazis,  soldiers,  and  followers  found  it, 
and  their  murmurs  were  very  loud  when  I  ordered  the 
signal  to  be  sounded  on  the  march.  Abdul  Kader,  the 
tailor  who  had  attached  himself  to  me,  as  a  man  ready- 
handed  at  all  things,  from  mending  a  pair  of  pants, 
making  a  delicate  entremets,  or  shooting  an  elephant, 
but  whom  the  interior  proved  to  be  the  weakliest  of  the 
weakly,  unfit  for  anything  except  eating  and  drinking 
— almost  succumbed  on  this  march. 

Long  ago  the  little  stock  of  goods  which  Abdul  had 
brought  from  Zanzibar  folded  in  a  pocket-handkerchief, 
and  with  which  he  was  about  to  buy  ivory  and  slaves, 
and  make  his  fortune  in  the  famed  land*  of  Unyamwezi, 
had  disappeared  with  the  great  eminent  hopes  he  had 
built  on  them,  like  those  of  Alnaschar  the  unfortu- 
nate owner  of  crockery  in  the  Arabian  tale.    He  came 


Junk,  1871.J 


TUBA  TO  UNYANYEMBE. 


217 


to  me  as  we  prepared  for  the  march,  with  a  most 
dolorous  tale  about  his  approaching  death,  which  he  felt 
in  his  bones,  and  weary  back  :  his  legs  would  barely 
hold  him  up ;  in  short,  he  had  utterly  collapsed — would 
I  take  mercy  on  him,  and  let  him  depart  ?  The  cause 
of  this  extraordinary  request,  so  unlike  the  spirit  with 
which  he  had  left  Zanzibar,  eager  to  possess  the  ivory 
and  slaves  of  Unyamwezi,  was  that  on  the  last  long 
march  two  of  my  donkeys  being  dead,  I  had  ordered  that 
the  two  saddles  which  they  had  carried,  should  be  Abdul 
Kader's  load  to  Unyanyembe.  The  weight  of  the 
saddles  was  16  lbs.,  as  the  spring  balance -scale  indicated, 
yet  Abdul  Kader  became  weary  of  life,  as  he  counted 
the  long  marches  that  intervened  between  the  mtoni 
and  Unyanyembe.  On  the  ground  he  fell  prone,  to 
kiss  my  feet,  begging  me  in  the  name  of  God  to 
permit  him  to  depart. 

As  I  had  had  some  experience  of  Hindoos,  Mala- 
barese,  and  coolies  in  Abyssinia,  I  knew  exactly  how  to 
deal  with  a  case  like  this.  Unhesitatingly  I  granted  the 
request  as  soon  as  asked,  for  as  much  tired  as  Abdul 
Kader  said,  he  was  of  life,  I  was  with  Abdul  Kader's 
worthlessness.  But  the  Hindi  did  not  want  to  be  left  in 
the  jungle,  he  said,  but  after  arriving  in  Unyanyembe. 
"  Ob,"  said  I,  "  then  you  must  reach  Unyanyembe  first ; 
in  the  meanwhile  you  will  carry  those  saddles  there  for 
the  food  which  you  must  eat."  "  Have  you  no  mercy  ?" 
he  implored.  "  None  for  such  an  incorrigibly  lazy 
wretch  as  you,"  I  replied,  accompanying  my  words 
with  a  vigorous  and  most  necessary  application  of  my 
donkey  lash,  which  resuscitated  the  moribund  into 
active,  if  not  useful  life. 

I  confess  I  was  somewhat  ill-tempered  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  18th,  somewhat  tired  also,  and  my  kirangozi 


218 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


came  in  for  a  fair  share  of  scolding.  I  had  no  energetic 
Muinyi  Kidogo  such  as  Burton  had,  otherwise  I  should 
have  valued  such  a  man,  methinks,  much  more  highly 
than  my  predecessor.  Many  a  time  I  sighed  for  such  a 
man,  when,  all  my  eloquence  failing  to  inspire  my 
caravan  for  the  march,  I  had  recourse  to  threats,  and 
sometimes  to  flogging  right  and  left  to  rouse  the 
pagazis  and  soldiers  up.  Upon  every  occasion  of  a 
terekeza  it  was  I  who  had  to  order,  no  one  ever  had 
occasion  to  request  that  I  should  make  one — it  was  I 
who  had  to  argue  its  utility  and  necessity,  I  who  was 
obliged  to  cut  short  Bombay's  vain  words  of  pleading, 
and  rouse  the  pagazis  out  of  the  khambi  by  premonitory 
cracks  of  my  whip. 

Very  passionate  were  my  reproaches  to  the  kirangozi 
for  his  mulish  obtuseness  in  not  perceiving  that  as 
we  neared  Unyanyembe  I  could  not  fail  to  remember 
when  I  bakshished  those  who  had  pleased  me — that  the 
kirangozi,  instead  of  going  when  I  told  him,  always 
abided  by  the  advice  of  the  pagazis.  I  asked  him 
with  how  many  doti  he  had  been  bribed  by  the  pagazis 
to  make  small  marches  and  long  halts.  He  replied 
that  not  one  of  the  pagazis  was  going  to  give  him  any 
cloth  that  he  knew  of.  u  Well,  then,"  I  asked,  "  how 
many  doti  could  I  give  you  if  you  pleased  me,  and  did 
what  I  told  you  ?"  "  Oh,  many,  many  !"  he  answered. 
"  Very  well,  then,"  I  said,  "  take  up  your  load,  and  let 
me  see  from  here  to  Unyanyembe  how  hard  and  how 
fast  you  can  walk ;"  upon  which  he  promised  most 
solemnly  to  abide  by  my  word,  only  to  march  when 
I  ordered  him,  to  halt  only  when  L  deemed  it  ne- 
cessary. 

As  the  march  to  Rubuga  was  eighteen  and  three- 
quarter  miles,  the  pagazis  walked  fast  and  long  without 


June,  1871.]  BUBUGA  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  21* 

resting.  The  kirangozi  had  made,  as  he  had  promised, 
his  legs  and  arms  strong  with  a  vengeance,  for  he 
travelled  the  whole  distance  to  Rubuga  Central  without 
a  halt,  much  to  the  dismay  of  his  train  of  pagazis,  who 
thought  he  was  gone  mad.  Hitherto,  we  had  been 
compelled  by  the  kirangozi  to  make  an  afternoon 
march  when  the  distance  was  but  fifteen  or  sixteen 
miles. 

Rubuga,  in  the  days  of  Burton,  according  to  his  book, 
was  a  prosperous  district.  Even  when  we  passed,  the 
evidences  of  wealth  and  prosperity  which  it  possessed 
formerly,  were  plain  enough  in  the  wide  extent  of  its 
grain  fields,  which  stretched  to  the  right  and  left  of  the 
Unyanyembe  road  for  many  a  mile.  But  they  were 
only  evidences,  of  what  once  were  numerous  villages,  a 
well-cultivated  and  populous  district,  rich  in  herds  of 
cattle  and  stores  of  grain.  All  the  villages  are  burnt 
down,  the  people  have  been  driven  north  three  or  four 
days  from  Rubuga,  the  cattle  were  taken  by  force,  the 
grain  fields  were  left  standing,  to  be  overgrown  with 
jungle  and  rank  weeds.  We  passed  village  after 
village  that  had  been  burnt,  and  were  mere  blackened 
heaps  of  charred  timber  and  smoked  clay  ;  field  after 
field  of  grain  ripe  years  ago  was  yet  standing  in 
the  midst  of  a  crop  of  gums  and  thorns,  mimosa  and 
kolquall. 

We  arrived  at  the  village,  occupied  by  about  sixty 
Wangwana,  who  have  settled  here  to  make  a  living  by 
buying  and  selling  ivory.  Food  is  provided  for  them 
in  the  deserted  fields  of  the  people  of  Rubuga.  We 
were  very  tired  and  heated  from  the  long  march,  but 
the  pagazis  had  all  arrived  by  3  p.m. 

At  the  Wangwana  village  we  met  Amer  bin  Sultan, 
the  very  type  of  an  old  Arab  sheikh,  such  as  we  read 


220 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


of  in  books,  with  a  snowy  beard,  and  a  clean  reverend 
face,  who  was  returning  to  Zanzibar  after  a  ten  years' 
residence  in  Unyanyembe.  He  presented  me  with  a 
goat,  and  a  goat-skin  full  of  rice ;  a  most  acceptable  gift 
in  a  place  where  a  goat  cost  five  shukkas. 

After  a  day's  halt  at  Rubuga,  during  which  I 
despatched  soldiers  to  notify  Sheikh  Sayd  bin  Salim 
and  Sheikh  bin  Nasib,  the  two  chief  dignitaries  of 
Unyanyembe,  of  my  coming,  on  the  21st  of  June  we 
resumed  the  march  for  Kigwa,  distant  five  hours.  The 
road  ran  through  another  forest  similar  to  that  which 
separated  Tura  from  Rubuga,  the  country  rapidly 
sloping  as  we  proceeded  westward.  Kigwa  we  found 
to  have  been  visited  by  the  same  vengeance  which 
rendered  Rubuga  such  a  waste. 

The  next  day,  after  a  three  and  a  half  hours'  rapid 
march,  we  crossed  the  mtoni — which  was  no  mtoni — 
separating  Kigwa  from  Unyanyembe  district,  and  after 
a  short  halt  to  quench  our  thirst,  in  three  and  a  half 
hours  more  arrived  at  Shiza.  It  was  a  most  delightful 
march,  though  a  long  one,  for  its  picturesqueness  of 
scenery  which  every  few  minutes  was  revealed,  and  the 
proofs  we  everywhere  saw  of  the  peaceable  and  indus- 
trious disposition  of  the  people.  A  short  half  hour 
from  Shiza  we  beheld  the  undulating  plain  wherein  the 
Arabs  have  chosen  to  situate  the  central  depot  which 
commands  such  a  wide  and  extensive  field  of  trade. 
The  lowing  of  cattle  and  the  bleating  of  the  goats  and 
sheep  were  everywhere  heard,  giving  the  country  a 
happy,  pastoral  aspect. 

The  Sultan  of  Shiza  desired  me  to  celebrate  my 
arrival  in  Unyanyembe,  with  a  five -gallon  jar  of 
pombe,  which  he  brought  for  that  purpose. 

As  the  pombe  was  but  stale  ale  in  taste,  and  milk  and 


J  UNE,  1871.] 


UNYANYEMBE. 


221 


water  in  color,  after  drinking  a  small  glassful  I  passed 
it  to  the  delighted  soldiers  and  pagazis.  At  my  request 
the  Sultan  brought  a  fine  fat  bullock,  for  which  he 
accepted  four  and  a  half  doti  of  Merikani.  The 
bullock  was  immediately  slaughtered  and  served  out  to 
the  caravan  as  a  farewell  feast. 

No  one  slept  much  that  night,  and  long  before 
the  dawn  the  fires  were  lit,  and  great  steaks  were 
broiling,  that  their  stomachs  might  rejoice  before  part- 
ing with  the  Musungu,  whose  bounty  they  had  so  often 
tasted.  Six  rounds  of  powder  were  served  to  each 
soldier  and  pagazi  who  owned  a  gun,  to  fire  away 
when  we  should  be  near  the  Arab  houses.  The  meanest 
pagazi  had  his  best  cloth  about  his  loins,  and  some 
were  exceedingly  brave  in  gorgeous  Ulyah  "  Coombeesa 
Poonga  "  and  crimson  "  Jawah,"  the  glossy  "  Rehani," 
and  the  neat  "  Dabwani."  The  soldiers  were  mustered  in 
new  tarbooshes,  and  the  long  white  shirts  of  the  Mrima 
and  the  Island.  For  this  was  the  great  and  happy  day 
which  had  been  on  our  tongues  ever  since  quitting  the 
coast,  for  which  we  had  made  those  noted  marches 
latterly — one  hundred  and  seventy -eight  and  a  half 
miles  in  sixteen  days,  including  pauses — something  over 
eleven  miles  a  day  ! 

The  signal  sounded,  and  the  caravan  was  joyfully  off 
with  banners  flying,  and  trumpets  and  horns  blaring. 
A  short  twro  and  a  half  hours'  march  brought  us  within 
sight  of  Kwikuru,  which  is  about  two  miles  south  of 
Tabora,  the  main  Arab  town;  on  the  outside  of  which 
we  saw  a  long  line  of  men  in  clean  shirts,  whereat  we 
opened  our  charged  batteries,  and  fired  a  volley  of 
small  arms  such  as  Kwikuru  seldom  heard  before.  The 
pagazis  closed  up  and  adopted  the  swagger  of  veterans  : 
the  soldiers  blazed  away  uninterruptedly,  while  I, 


222 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


seeing  that  the  Arabs  were  advancing  towards  me,  left 
the  ranks,  and  held  out  my  hand,  which  was  immediately 
grasped  by  Sheikh  Sayd  bin  Salim,  and  then  by  about 
two  dozen  people,  and  thus  our  entree  into  Unyanyembe 
was  effected. 


CGOGO  MAN  AND  W03IAN. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS. 

The  geography  of  the  country  through  which  we  have 
just  traversed  has  been  described  already  under  its 
various  aspects — as  we  were  informed  through  native 
reports,  and  as  we  saw  it  ourselves — in  the  preceding- 
pages.  But  it  would  be  as  well  to  summarise,  as 
clearly  as  possible,  in  a  chapter  specially  devoted  to 
the  geography  and  ethnography  of  the  country,  what 
additional  knowledge  we  have  gained  of  the  interior  of 
Africa. 

There  were  three  routes  to  Unyanyembe  from  Baga- 
moyo,  either  of  which  might  have  been  taken  by  our 
Expedition  ;  but  two  of  them  were  already  known  by 
the  minute  description  which  we  have  received  from 
my  predecessors  in  this  part  of  Africa — Messrs.  Burton, 


224 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Speke,  and  Grant.  There  was  one,  a  more  northern 
and  direct  route  to  Unvanvembe,  which  was  said  to 
lead  through  Northern  Uzaramo,  Ukwere,  Ukami, 
Udoe,  Useguhha  or  Usegura,  Usagara,  Ugogo,  Uyanzi, 
thence  to  Unyamwezi.    It  was  this  which  I  adopted. 

As  the  crow  flies,  or,  in  geographical  parlance, 
rect  i  lineally,  the  distance  from  Bagamoyo  to  Unyan- 
yembe  is  nearly  6°  of  longitude,  or  three  hundred  and 
sixty  miles.  The  sinuosity  of  the  path  taken  by 
caravans,  which  in  Africa  is  adapted  to  the  lay  of 
the  country,  and  follows  the  easier,  less  dangerous, 
more  available  course,  extends  the  distance  to  be 
traversed,  to  over  five  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 
I  reckon  of  course  by  the  time  occupied  by  the 
marches,  and  the  rate  of  progress,  which  I  presume  to 
be  not  more  nor  less  than  2  *  5  miles  per  hour. 

That  portion  of  country  extending  from  Bagamoyo 
to  Kikoka  is  called  the  "  Mrima  " — the  hill ;  it  may 
also  be  designated  Sawahili,  and  also  Zanguebar.  We 
recognize  the  latter  name  as  figuring  prominently  in 
our  ancient  maps,  as  the  designation  given  to  a  lengthy 
strip  of  sea-coast  extending  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Jub,  to  Cape  Delgado,  or  from  the  equator  to 
S.  lat.  10°  41".  Sawahili  means  the  "  sea-coast,"  hence 
the  people  who  live  on  this  sea-coast  of  Zanguebar 
are  called  Wasawahili,  and  their  language,  Kisawahili. 
And  it  may  here  be  mentioned  that  the  prefix  U,  means 
country,  Wa,  for  persons  in  the  plural,  M,  is  the  sin- 
gular for  one  person.  Thus  U-zaramo,  means  country 
of  Zaramo ;  Wa-zaramo,  would  mean  people  of  Zaramo ; 
M-zaramo,  one  person  of  Zaramo;  Ki-zaramo,  language 
of  Zaramo. 

Bagamoyo  is  a  small  port  on  the  Mrima,  Sawahili,  or 
Zanguebar  coast,  which  stands  nearly  opposite  the  port 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  225 

of  Zanzibar,  whither  caravans  generally  bound  for  TJn- 
yanyembe  land.  A  few  miles  higher  up,  north,  are  the 
ports  of  Whinde  and  Saadani,  situated  one  on  each  side 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Eiver  Wami.  Four  miles  south  of 
Bagamoyo  is  Kaole,  a  small  village  which  contains 
a  gurayza  or  fort,  with  about  a  dozen  Baluches  for  a 
garrison.  South  of  Kaole  is  Konduchi,  and  southward 
still  is  Dar  Salaam,  a  new  port  established  by  the  late 
Sultan.  South  of  Dar  Salaam  is  Mbuamaji,  quite  an 
important  rendezvous  for  caravans  bound  for  the 
interior.  About  sixty  miles  south  of  Mbuamaji  is  the 
most  northern  mouth  of  the  Rufiji  river,  opposite  the 
island  of  Mafia  or  Monfia ;  and  a  degree  further  south 
we  come  to  the  famous  port  of  Kilwa,  that  great 
entrepot  of  slave  traders. 

The  strip  of  land  known  as  the  Mrima  is  a  most 
important  one  in  the  eyes  of  the  civilized  world,  for 
upon  here,  now  that  the  slave  question  is  being 
agitated,  our  attention  should  be  seriously  concentrated. 
Its  importance  to  us,  arises  from  the  fact  that  by  means 
of  its  ports,  Mombasah,  Bueni,  Saadani,  Whinde,  Baga- 
moyo, Kaole,  Konduchi,  Dar  Salaam,  Mbuamaji,  and 
Kilwa,  three-fourths  of  the  slaves  captured,  kidnapped, 
or  bought  in  the  interior,  are  shipped  abroad.  This 
fact  should  be  remembered. 

Once  we  cross  the  Kingani  River  on  our  road  to 
Unyanyembe,  we  may  be  said  to  have  left  the  country 
of  the  Wamrima,  and  to  have  touched  upon  the  most 
northern  extremity  of  Uzaramo.  The  Sultan  of  Zanzibar 
has  established  a  post  at  Kikoka,  four  miles  west  of  the 
Kingani,  and  by  this  has  made  good  his  claim  to  call 
the  ten  miles  of  country  from  Bagamoyo  to  Kikoka  his 
own.  As  there  are  no  inhabitants  between  the  river 
and  Kikoka,  his  claim  is  not  disputed. 

Q 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


On  our  right — which  is  to  the  north  of  the  Unyan* 
yembe  road — stretches  Ukwere,  two  days'  march,  or 
twenty-five  miles.  West,  Ukwere  extends  from  Rosako 
to  Kisemo,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles.  From  Kisemo, 
west,  half-way  to  Mikeseh,  or  east  of  the  Kira  Peak, 
extends  Ukami.  This  country  formerly  stretched  as  far. 
as  and  included  Simbamwenni,  the  capital  of  the  Wase- 
guhha ;  but  the  Wadoe,  their  northern  neighbours,  in- 
vaded and  conquered  the  inhabitants,  who  were  in 
their  turn  conquered  by  the  powerful  tribes  of  the 
Waseguhha.  From  Kira  Peak  to  Ulagalla  is  included 
under  the  name  of  Udoe,  still  a  large  country,  which 
overlaps,  on  the  north,  Ukami,  eastward  beyond 
Ukwere  to  the  Mrima,  or  the  coast.  This  portion, 
between  Kira  Peak  and  Ulagalla  is  the  south-western 
extremity  of  the  territory  of  the  Wadoe. 

Useguhha  begins  at  Ulagalla,  and  its  western  extre- 
mity is  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Makata. 

The  whole  of  this  country,  embracing  these  several 
districts  of  Ukwere,  Ukami,  Udoe,  and  Useguhha,  is 
drained  by  the  Kingani,  and  its  tributaries —or,  I  should 
•ay>  D7  its  chief  tributary,  the  Ungerengeri.  By 
adopting  this  northern  route  I  was  enabled  to  discover 
the  principal  branch  of  the  Kingani  in  the  Ungerengeri, 
called  Rufu  by  the  natives,  as  it  enters  into  the  main 
river.  Speke  and  Grant  discovered  the  Mgeta,  another 
branch,  flowing  from  west  of  the  Mkambaku  range,  and 
circling  southerly  round  about,  thus  draining  the  whole 
of  Ukutu  and  Uzaramo.  The  area  of  land  drained  by 
the  Kingani  and  its  tributaries  may  be  estimated  at 
not  more  than  twelve  thousand  square  miles. 

It  will  be  noticed  by  those  who  study  African 
geography,  that  Speke  has  placed  on  his  map,  near 
long.  E.  37°,  a  range   of  mountains  called  the  Mkam- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  227 


baku  range,  extending  north  at  least  1°.  That  part  of 
the  range  called  the  "  Mkambaku  "  our  Expedition  saw, 
but  the  most  northern  portion  of  it  is  known  as  the 
Urn  guru  mountains.  At  the  foot  of  its  most  northern 
extremity,  as  the  range  deflects  eastward,  the  capital  of 
southern  Useguhha,  Simbamwenni,  is  situated. 

Speke  says,  in  'Journal  of  the  Discovery  of  the 
Sources  of  the  Nile,'  p.  32  :  "  Where  the  Kingani  itself 
rises,  I  never  could  find  out ;  though  I  have  heard  that 
its  source  lies  in  a  gurgling  spring  on  the  eastern  face 
of  the  Mkambaku  ;  by  which  account  the  Mgeta  is 
made  the  longer  branch  of  the  two."  By  whatever 
name  we  distinguish  this  river — whether  it  be  the  Kin- 
gani, or  the  Hamdallah,  as  the  Wamrima  call  it,  or  the 
Rufu,  as  the  Wakwere,  Wakami,  Wadoe,  and  Wase- 
guhha  call  it — its  source  can  be  no  longer  matter  of 
conjecture.  Speke  has  discovered  that  the  Mgeta,  one 
of  the  two  main  branches,  rises  on  the  western  slope  of 
the  Mkambaku,  and  has  seen  it  sweeping  round  the 
south  of  Khutu.  I  have  discovered  that  the  second 
main  branch — called  Ungerengeri — rises  west  of  the 
Mkambaku,  or  rather,  the  Uruguru  mountains,  and  that 
it  sweeps  northward  through  Useguhha  and  Udoe  to 
southern  Ukwere,  and  Ukami,  and  thence  into  the  Kin- 
gani. This  river  by  the  natives  is  known  as  the  Rufu 
from  the  time  it  enters  Ukwere,  to  its  exit  into  the 
ocean  three  miles  north  of  Bagamoyo.  To  the  Arabs, 
however,  this  river,  from  the  point  of  confluence  of  the 
several  branches,  is  known  as  the  Kingani.  Under  that 
name  it  will  be  best  known  to  students  of  African  tra- 
vellers' maps. 

The  highest  altitude  reached  by  our  Expedition 
between  Bagamoyo  and  Simbamwenni  in  Useguhha, 
did  not  exceed  one  thousand  feet,  and,  excepting  for  a 

Q  2 


228 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


cone  here  and  there  visible  to  the  north  of  Kingaru 
Hera,  and  known  as  Dilima  peaks,  and  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Mikeseh,  the  land  appears  to  rise  gradually, 
in  a  series  of  lengthy  and  parallel  undulations,  exten- 
sively wooded,  jungly,  or  in  smooth  grassy  ridges,  the 
slopes  falling  easterly  and  westerly  into  depressions  like 
wave-troughs,  by  means  of  which  the  drainage  is 
carried  southerly  and  south-westerly  into  the  Unge- 
rengeri. 

Beyond  Simbamwenni  and  westward  of  the  Unge- 
rengeri  we  suddenly  front  towering  and  isolated  cones 
with  truncated  summits,  and  these  cones  connected  one 
with  another  by  means  of  low  saddles,  or  ridges,  to  an 
isolated  group  of  mountains  at  least  two  thousand  feet 
above  the  Ungerengeri,  at  the  base  of  which,  on  the 
northern  side  of  this  stream,  a  lengthy,  wooded  ridge 
sweeps  easterly,  separating  the  Ungerengeri  from  the 
Wami. 

This  bold  aspect  of  the  country  is  most  gratifying  to 
the  eye  of  the  stranger,  who  fancies  that  he  is  about  to 
ascend  higher  altitudes,  and  obtain  immunity  from  the 
fevers,  which  those  ignorant  of  the  nature  of  the 
African  interior  attribute  only  to  the  jungles  and 
marshes  of  the  maritime  region. 

In  one  march,  however,  from  Simbamwenni  by  a  pass 
between  the  mountain  group,  we  arrive  at  Simbo, 
whence  we  may  obtain  a  clear  view  of  the  broad  valley 
of  the  Great  Makata,  bounded  by  the  high  and  bold 
group  at  our  backs,  on  the  east,  by  the  glorious 
mountain  range  of  Usagara,  whose  bold  peaks  and 
aspiring  summits  are  buried  in  the  clouds. 

I  have  devoted  much  time  to  the  elucidation  of  the 
difference  existing  between  the  Kingani  and  the  Wami 
river.    It  is  only  after  satisfying  myself  that  I  have 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  229 


ventured  to  assert  that  the  difference  between  these 
rivers  is  clear  and  positive.  Arabs,  Wamrima  and 
natives,  and  my  own  personal  knowledge  of  the  country 
and  its  superficial  configuration,  tend  to  establish  be- 
yond further  doubt  that  the  Kingani  and  the  Wami  are 
two  separate  and  entirely  distinct  rivers.  The  Kingani 
enters  the  sea  three  miles  north  of  Bagamoyo ;  the 
Wami  at  nearly  half-way  between  the  ports  of  Whinde 
and  Sa'adani. 

The  following  plan  will  best  illustrate  the  water- 
system  of  this  region  : 


We  have  found  that  the  Ungerengeri  flows  south- 
westerly to  the  Kingani,  and  from  this  point  where  we 
stand  (Simbo)  the  formation  of  the  country  is  clearly 
visible.  On  our  right,  as  we  turn  our  faces  west,  is 
the  valley  of  the  Makata,  or  the  Wami,  flowing  north- 
ward and  eastward ;  on  our  left  is  the  valley  of  the 
Ungerengeri  with  the  river  flowing,  after  a  bold  sweep 
northward,  to  the  south-east.  Our  line  of  march 
hither  from  Bagamoyo  has  been  nearly  equi-distant 
from  each  river,  with  the  Wami  on  our  right  and  the 
Ungerengeri,  or  the  Kingani,  on  our  left. 


280 


HOW  J  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


It  will  be  seen,  on  reference  to  the  above  diagram, 
how  one  and  the  same  river  bears  three  or  four  dis- 
tinctly different  names,  and  how  very  easily  travellers 
may  be  baffled  in  the  pursuit  of  geographical  informa- 
tion. Like  the  Kingani  with  its  series  of  different 
designations,  the  river  issuing  into  the  sea  between 
the  Mohammedan  ports  of  Whinde  and  Sa'adani 
is  called  the  Wami,  the  Rudewa,  the  Makata,  and  the 
Mukondokwa. 

The  first  important  stream  which  we  find  as  we  enter 
the  broad  plain,  or  the  valley  of  Makata,  is  the  Little 
Makata,  which,  though  fordable  at  all  seasons,  becomes 
a  swift  and  dangerous  river  to  travellers  in  the  height 
of  the  Masika  season.  After  the  Little  Makata  we 
come  to  a  deep  nullah  which  overflows  with  water  during 
the  rains,  and  a  few  hundred  yards  beyond  we  come 
to  the  Great  Makata — the  Wami,  or  the  Mukondokwa 
— a  stream  capable  of  expanding  into  a  mighty  river 
five  or  six  hundred  yards  broad.  Beyond  the  Great 
Makata  we  come  to  the  Mbengerenga,  a  branch  of 
the  Rudewa,  which  here  flows  parallel  with  our 
line  of  march,  emptying  into  the  Wami  at  or  near 
the  confluence  of  the  Great  Makata  with  the  Little 
Makata.  Crossing  the  Mbengerenga,  we  presently  come 
to  another  small  branch  of  the  Rudewa,  and  see  the 
Rudewa  itself,  as  it  approaches  our  road  and  whirls 
round  sharply  to  the  east.  Beyond  this,  as  we  turn 
our  faces  south-west,  we  come  to  the  Uronga,  a  river 
rising  in  Mundu,  northern  Usagara,  and,  having 
reached  our  camp  at  Rehenneko,  we  strike  across  an 
angle  of  the  mountains  and  arrive  at  the  Makata  again 
under  the  name  of  the  Mukondokwa,  as  it  is  called  by 
the  Wasagara.  Pursuing  our  way  up  the  Mukondokwa 
Pass,  along  the  same  route  pursued  by  Capts.  Burton 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AXD  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  231 


and  Speke,  we  arrive  at  a  point  in  this  valley  where 
our  various  routes  diverge,  that  of  Burton  and  Speke 
leading  up  and  along  the  summit  of  the  Rubeho  range, 
ours  inclining  northward  considerably,  yet  keeping 
on  a  parallel  line  with  their  route  with  an  interval  of 
from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  between. 

Burton,  soon  after  leaving  the  valley  of  the  Mukon- 
dokwa,  came  to  a  plateau  which  "  ended  in  a  descent 
with  rapid  slopes,  over  falls  and  steps  of  rock  and 
boulder,  into  the  basin  of  the  Rumuma  river.  It  is  a 
southern  influent,  or  a  bifurcation  of  the  Mukondokwa, 
and  it  drains  the  hills  to  the  south-west  of  the  Rumuma 
district,  whereas  the  main  stream  arising  in  the  high- 
lands of  the  Wahumba,  or  Wamusai,  carries  off  the 
waters  of  the  lands  to  the  west." 

Not  eleven  miles  from  the  ford  where  Burton  and 
Speke's  and  my  own  route  parted,  I  came  to  a  lake,  the 
Lake  Ugombo,  which,  though  of  limited  dimensions, 
plays  a  small  part  in  the  water  system  of  East  Africa. 
For  this  small  lake,  barely  three  miles  in  length,  receives 
the  Rumuma  and  discharges  it  through  a  narrow  chasm 
into  the  Mukondokwa.  "The  main-stream  does  not 
rise  in  the  highlands  of  the  Wahumba,  or  the  Wamusai, 
nor  does  it  carry  the  waters  of  the  lands  on  the  west ;" 
but  rises  at  least  one  degree  north  of  the  latitude  of 
Ugombo  in  the  mountains  of  Kema  Kaguru,  in  what  is 
known  in  Kisagara  as  Mundu,  which  is  also  the  birth- 
place of  the  stream  Uronga,  or  Ulonga. 

Among  the  other  feeders  of  this  Mukondokwa  river 
besides  the  Rumuma  are  the  streams  Rufuta  and 
Mdunku,  which  rise  in  Kivya,  the  Myombo  and 
Mdunwi. 

The  "  lands  on  the  west "  of  the  longitude  of  Rubeho 
— at  least,  on  our  route — are  drained  by  means  of 


232 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


nullahs,  which,  on  account  of  the  general  drought  in 
this  dry  region,  fail  to  carry  the  water  into  any  stream. 
These  nullahs,  or  dry  water-courses,  or  deepened 
fiuraaras — which  we  in  America  would  call  gulches — 
absorb  all  the  water  that  flows  into  them  from  the 
sterile  regions  beyond,  or  west  of  the  Usagara  moun- 
tains. The  Mukondokwa  river  runs  from  north  to 
south  through  the  mountains  of  Usagara,  thence  swerv- 
ing easterly,  serves  to  convey  the  waters  discharged 
into  it  by  the  Rufuta,  Rumuma,  Myombo,  and  Mdunwi, 
easterly  into  the  Indian  Ocean. 

The  rainfall  west  of  Usagara  is  so  slight  that  the 
sandy  fiumaras,  or  gulches,  seldom  contribute  any 
water  to  the  Rufiji  river.  For  from  westward  of 
Ugogi  to  Tura,  in  Unyamwezi,  the  drainage  slopes 
southwards  into  the  Ruhwha,  or  the  Rufiji  River. 

That  sterile  region,  which  comprises  the  northern 
Marenga  Mkali,  the  whole  of  Ugogo  and  southern 
Uhumba,  or  Umasai,  Ihange,  and  Mbogwe,  have  no 
drainage.  Whatever  rain  falls  is  received  by  the 
shallow  pools  or  small  lakes,  which  dot  the  interior 
of  this  region  so  thickly.  During  the  dry  season  eva- 
poration takes  place,  and  the  water  is  drained  from 
these  pools  by  the  steady  north-east  monsoons  into 
the  grander  reservoirs  of  the  lakes  occupied  by  the 
Victoria  N'Yanza,  and  thence  into  the  Nile.  Afte>r 
the  evaporation  has  taken  place,  the  surface  of  this 
sterile  region  exhibits  large  expanses  of  country 
covered  with  saline  incrustations,  or  with  nitrate  of 
soda.  Those  visible  west  of  Chaga,  in  the  district  of 
Angaruka,  the  saline  lagoons  of  Balibali,  west  of  Kikui, 
and  those  seen  by  myself  north  of  Mizanza,  must  tend 
to  establish  this  theory. 

Beyond  Ugogo  the  only  streams  worth  mentioning 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  235 


here  are  the  Mdaburu  and  the  Mabunguru,  which 
flow  southerly  into  the  Kisigo,  which  is  placed  one 
degree  south  of  Kiwyeh.  We  are  told  that  it  is  an 
important  stream,  and  swift,  by  the  Wagogo  of  Kiwyeh, 
and  that  it  is  haunted  by  numbers  of  hippopotami  and 
crocodiles.    The  Kisigo  empties  into  the  Rufiji. 

Briefly  it  may  be  said  of  our  march  to  Unyanyembe 
that  its  first  stage  was  across  the  basin  of  the  Kingani ; 
the  second,  across  the  basin  of  the  Wami ;  the  third, 
across  the  water-shed  of  the  Wami ;  the  fourth,  across 
the  most  northern  portion  of  the  basin  of  the  Ruhwha, 
and  the  waterless  region  ;  and  the  fifth,  into  the  borders* 
of  the  water-shed  of  the  Lake  Tanganika. 

Now,  the  reader  might  ask — and  very  properly 
too — "What  profiteth  it  all — these  tiresome  descrip- 
tions of  rivers,  &c.,  with  such  odd,  incomprehensible 
names  ?" 

Patience !  reader ;  that  is  precisely  the  point  I  was 
about  to  arrive  at.  If  you  look  at  the  map  accom- 
panying this  book,  you  will  perceive  the  suggestion 
conveyed  to  you  by  my  description  of  two  particular 
rivers. 

First,  it  appears  to  me,  that  the  Wami  River  is 
available  for  commerce.  I  know  that  it  can  be  navi- 
gated with  ease  by  light-draught  steamers  drawing  two 
or  three  feet — for  a  distance  of  two  degrees  recti] ineally, 
or  nearly  two  hundred  miles  by  water — from  the  port 
of  Whinde  to  Mbumi,  Usagara.  All  impediments 
to  free  navigation- — such  as  the  mangrove  trees  which 
on  either  bank  in  some  places,  especially  near  Ki- 
gongo's  village,  interlace  their  far-spreading  branches 
— could  be  easily  removed  by  an  axe. 

Mbumi  is  within  a  couple  of  miles  from  the  foot 
of  the  Usagara  mountains,  the  sanatoria  of  East  Africa. 


234 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  distance  from  Whinde  to  Mbumi  could  with  ease 
be  traversed  by  a  steamer  in  four  days. 

Who  wishes  to  civilize  Africa  ?  Who  wishes  to 
open  trade  direct  with  Usagara,  Useguhha,  Ukutu, 
Uhehe  ;  to  get  the  ivory,  the  sugar,  the  cotton,  the 
orchilla-weed,  the  indigo,  and  the  grain  of  these 
countries  ?    Here  is  an  opportunity  ! 

Four  days  by  steamer  bring  the  missionary  to  the 
healthy  uplands  of  Africa,  where  he  can  live  amongst 
the  gentle  Wasagara  without  fear  or  alarm;  where  he 
can  enjoy  the  luxuries  of  civilized  life  without  fear 
of  being  deprived  of  them,  amid  the  most  beautiful 
and  picturesque  scenes  a  poetic  fancy  could  imagine  ! 
Here  is  the  greenest  verdure,  purest  water ;  here  are 
valleys  teeming  with  grain  stalks,  forests  of  tama- 
rind, mimosa,  gum-copal  tree ;  here  is  the  gigantic 
mvule,  the  stately  mparamusi,  the  beautiful  palm — a 
scene  such  as  only  a  tropic  sky  covers !  Health  and 
abundance  of  food  are  assured  to  the  missionary  ;  gentle 
people  are  at  his  feet  ready  to  welcome  him  !  Except 
civilized  society,  nothing  that  the  soul  of  man  can 
desire  is  lacking  here  ! 

From  the  village  of  Kadetamare  a  score  of  admirable 
mission  sites  are  available,  with  fine  health-giving 
breezes  blowing  over  them,  water  in  abundance  at 
their  feet,  fertility  unsurpassed  around  them,  with 
docile,  good-tempered  people  dwelling  everywhere  at 
peace  with  each  other,  and  all  travellers  and  neighbours. 

As  the  passes  of  Olympus  unlocked  the  gates  of  the 
Eastern  empire  to  the  hordes  of  Othman  ;  as  the  passes 
of  Kumayle  and  Suru  admitted  the  British  into  Abys- 
sinia— so  the  passes  of  the  Mukondokwa  may  admit  the 
Gospel  and  its  beneficent  influences  into  the  heart  of 
savage  Africa. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  235 


I  can  fancy  old  Kadetamare  rubbing  his  hands  with 
glee  at  the  sight  of  the  white  man  coming  to  teach  his 
people  the  words  of  the  "  Mulungu  " — the  Sky  Spirit ; 
how  to  sow,  and  reap,  and  build  houses ;  how  to  cure 
their  sick,  how  to  make  themselves  comfortable ; — in 
short,  how  to  be  civilized.  But  the  missionary,  to  be 
successful,  must  know  his  duties  as  well  as  a  thorough 
sailor  must  know  how  to  reef,  hand,  and  steer.  He  must 
be  no  kid-glove,  effeminate  man,  no  journal  writer,  no 
disputatious  polemic,  no  silken  stole  and  chasuble-loving 
priest — but  a  thorough  earnest  laborer  in  the  garden  of 
the  Lord — a  man  of  the  David  Livingstone,  or  of  the 
Robert  Moffatt  stamp. 

The  other  river,  the  Rufiji  or  Ruhwha,  is  a  still  more 
important  stream  than  the  Wami.  It  is  a  much  longer 
river,  and  discharges  twice  as  much  water  into  the 
Indian  Ocean.  It  rises  near  some  mountains  about 
one  hundred  miles  south-west  of  U  bena.  Kisigo  River, 
the  most  northern  and  most  important  affluent  of  the 
Ruhwha,  is  supposed  to  flow  into  it  near  E.  longitude 
35° ;  from  the  confluence  to  the  sea,  the  Ruhwha 
has  a  length  of  4°  of  direct  longitude.  This  fact  of 
itself  must  prove  its  importance  and  rank  among  the 
rivers  of  East  Africa.  Yery  little  is  known  of  it  except 
that  it  is  navigable  by  small  boats  for  eight  tides,  or 
say  sixty  miles  up  ;  that  Banyans  trade  for  this  distance 
up  the  river,  and  collect  the  ivory  from  the  tribes  on  its 
banks. 

The  traveller  perceives  a  striking  contrast  between 
the  lower  and  upper  regions,  or  the  maritime  and  sterile 
regions,  in  the  growth  of  vegetation.  In  the  valleys  of 
the  Ungerengeri  and  Wami,  the  power  of  production 
in  the  soil  is  remarkable.  The  rich  black  alluvial,  the 
deposit  for  many  ages  of  these  rivers,  knows  no  bounds 


236 


ROW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  its  fertility.  Every  species  of  vegetation  is  shot  up 
to  gigantic  proportions.  The  grass  stalks  are  enlarged 
to  the  size  of  ordinary  bamboo;  and  the  trees,  such  as 
the  mparamnsi,  and  the  mvule-trees,  have  stems  a 
hundred  feet  high.  The  Indian  com  grown  in  these 
valleys  eclipses  the  finest  crops  in  the  bottom  lands 
of  Arkansas,  Missouri,  and  Mississippi.  The  holcus 
sorghum,  or  matama,  have  stalks  rivalling  in  thickness 
the  finest  sugar-cane,  and  some  reach  to  the  height  of 
twelve  feet.  The  density  of  the  jungles  is  something 
appalling,  and  the  variety  of  species  of  plants  and  trees 
would  task  the  skill  of  the  most  learned  botanists  to 
class  them. 

In  my  diurnal  accounts  of  our  marches  and  expe- 
riences I  have  attempted  to  sketch  out  the  nature  of  the 
country  as  it  appeared  to  us  during  the  time  of  transit. 
Through  the  maritime  region  our  transit  occurred 
during  the  Masika  season,  and  as  it  progressed  we  were 
enabled  to  observe  its  effect  on  the  grasses. 

When  the  Masika  season  begins,  these  grasses  hardly 
ever  appear  above  the  knee  ;  but  towards  the  end,  they 
have  grown  to  their  full  height.  A  month  after  the 
Masika,  when  they  present  quite  a  bleached  appearance, 
the  natives  set  fire  to  them,  and  the  country  for  days 
afterwards,  resounds  with  the  roar  of  the  fierce  con- 
flagrations, canopied  by  a  thick  curtain  of  black  smoke, 
which  even  lends  its  sombre  coloring  to  the  sky. 

When  these  fires  have  raged  through  the  forests,  and 
have  devoured  the  grass,  then  is  the  best  time  for  tra- 
velling. Progress  is  easy,  and  almost  double  the  num- 
ber of  marches  is  effected,  than  while  the  grass  presents 
constant  impediments,  from  its  density  and  height.  The 
eye  is  then  permitted  to  rove  free  over  the  swelling 
contours  and  low  knolls,  without  the  glance  being  dis- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  237 

turbed  by  a  young  forest  of  thick  grasses  directly  be- 
tween you  and  the  pleasing  prospect,  over  whose  tops 
only  a  man  fifteen  feet  high  could  gratify  his  love  of 
natural  scenery. 

It  were  a  difficult  task  to  distinguish  nice  ethnical 
differences  between  the  Wamrima  and  the  more  occi- 
dental Washensi.  I  am  constantly  wondering  how  Capt. 
Burton  has  been  able  to  draw  his  fine  lines — which, 
I  must  assure  the  reader,  are  imperceptible  to  ordinary 
men  like  myself. 

After  Zanzibar,  our  debut  into  Africa  is  made  vid 
Bagamoyo.  At  this  place  we  may  see  Wangindo;  Wa- 
sawahili,  Warori,  Wagogo,  Wanyamwezi,  Waseguhha, 
and  Wasagara  ;  yet  it  would  be  a  difficult  task  for  any 
person,  at  mere  sight  of  their  features  or  dresses,  to  note 
the  differences.  Only  by  certain  customs  or  distinctive 
marks,  such  as  tattooing,  puncturing  of  the  lobes  of  the 
ears,  ornaments,  wearing  the  hair,  &c,  which  would 
appear  at  first  too  trivial  to  note,  could  one  discriminate 
between  the  various  tribal  representations.  There  are 
certainly  differences,  but  not  so  varied  or  marked  as 
they  are  reported. 

The  Wasawahili — of  course  through  their  intercourse 
with  semi-civilization — present  us  with  a  race,  or  tribe, 
influenced  by  a  state  of  semi-civilized  society,  and  are, 
consequently,  better  dressed,  and  appear  to  better  ad- 
vantage than  their  more  savage  brethren  further  west. 
As  it  is  said  that  underneath  the  Russian  skin  lies  the 
Tartar,  so  it  may  be  said  that  underneath  the  snowy 
dish-dasheh,  or  shirt,  of  the  Msawahili  one  will  find  the 
true  barbarian.  In  the  street,  or  bazaar,  he  appears  semi- 
Arabized ;  his  suavity  of  manner,  his  prostrations  and 
genuflexions,  the  patois  he  speaks,  all  prove  his  contact 
and  affinity  with  the  dominant  race,  whose  subject  he  is. 


238 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Once  out  of  the  coast  towns,  in  the  Washensi  villages, 
he  sheds  the  shirt  that  had  half  civilized  him,  and 
appears  in  all  his  deep  blackness  of  skin,  prognathous 
jaws,  thick  lips — the  pure  negro  and  barbarian.  Not 
the  keenest  eye  could  detect  a  difference  between  him 
and  the  Mshensi,  unless  his  attention  had  been  drawn 
to  the  fact  that  the  two  men  were  of  different  tribes. 

The  next  tribe  to  which  we  are  introduced  are  the 
Wakwere,  who  occupy  a  limited  extent  of  country  be- 
tween the  Wazaramo  and  the  Wadoe.  They  are  the 
first  representatives  of  the  pure  barbarian  the  traveller 
meets  when  but  two  days'  journey  from  the  sea-coast. 
They  are  a  timid  tribe,  and  a  very  unlikely  people  to 
commence  an  attack  upon  any  body  of  men  for  mere 
plunder's  sake.  They  have  not  a  very  good  reputation 
among  the  Arab  and  Wasawahili  traders.  They  are 
said  to  be  exceedingly  dishonest,  of  which  I  have  not 
the  least  doubt.  They  furnished  me  with  good  grounds 
for  believing  these  reports  while  encamped  at  Kingaru- 
Hera  and  Imbiki.  The  chiefs  of  the  more  eastern  part 
of  Ukwere  profess  nominal  allegiance  to  the  Diwans  of 
the  Mrima.  They  have  selected  the  densest  jungles 
wherein  to  establish  their  villages.  Every  avenue  into 
one  of  their  valleys  is  jealously  guarded  by  strong 
wooden  narrow  gates,  seldom  over  4i  feet  high,  and  so 
narrow  sometimes  that  one  must  enter  sidewavs. 

These  jungle  islets,  which  in  particular  dot  the  extent 
of  Ukwere,  present  formidable  obstacles  to  a  naked 
enemy.  The  plants,  bushes,  and  young  trees  which 
form  their  natural  defence  are  generally  of  the  aloetic 
and  thorny  species,  growing  so  dense,  interlaced  one 
with  another,  that  the  hardiest  and  most  desperate 
robber  would  not  brave  the  formidable  array  of  sharp 
thorns  which  bristle  everywhere. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  239 


Some  of  these  jungle  islets  are  infested  with  gangs  of 
banditti,  who  seldom  fail  to  take  advantage  of  the  weak- 
ness of  a  single  wayfarer,  more  especially  if  he  be  a 
Mgwana,  a  freeman  of  Zanzibar,  as  every  negro  re- 
sident of  the  island  of  Zanzibar  is  distinguished  by  the 
Washensi  natives  of  the  interior. 


A  GATE  OF  A  VILLAGE 


I  should  estimate  the  population  of  Ukwere,  allowing 
about  100  villages  to  this  territory  (which  is  not  more 
than  thirty  miles  square,  its  bounds  on  the  south  being 
the  Rufu  river,  and  on  the  north  the  river  Wami),  at 
not  more  than  5000  souls.  Were  all  these  banded 
together  under  the  command  of  one  chief,  the  Wakwere 
might  become  a  powerful  tribe. 

After  the  Wakwere  we  come  to  the  Wakami,  a  rem- 
nant of  a  once  grand  nation  which  occupied  the  lands 
from  the  Ungerengeri  to  the  Great  Makata  River. 
Frequent  wars  with  the  Wadoe  and  the  Waseguhha 


240 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


have  reduced  them  to  a  narrow  belt  of  country,  ten 
rectilinear  miles  across,  which  may  be  said  to  be  com- 
prised between  Kira  Peak  and  the  stony  ridge  bounding 
the  valley  of  the  Ungerengeri  on  the  east,  within  a 
couple  of  miles  from  the  east  bank  of  the  river. 

Tl  ley  are  as  numerous  as  bees  in  the  Ungerengeri 
valley.  Its  unsurpassed  fertility  has  been  a  great  in- 
ducement to  retain  for  these  people  the  distinction  of  a 
tribe.  By  the  means  of  a  spy-glass  one  may  see,  as  he 
stands  on  that  stony  ridge  looking  down  into  the  fair 
valley,  clusters  of  brown  huts  visible  amid  bosky  clumps, 
fulness  and  plenty  all  over  the  valley,  and  may  count 
easily  over  a  hundred  villages. 

From  Ukami  we  pass  to  Southern  Udoe,  and  find  a 
warlike,  fine-looking  people,  with  a  far  more  intelligent 
cast  of  features,  and  a  shade  lighter  than  the  Wakami 
and  Wakwere — a  people  who  are  full  of  traditions  ol 
race,  a  people  who  have  boldly  rushed  to  war  upon  the 
slightest  encroachment  upon  their  territories,  and  who 
have  bravely  defended  themselves  against  the  Wase- 
guhha  and  Wakami,  as  well  as  against  nomadic 
marauders  from  Uhumba. 

Udoe,  in  appearance,  is  amongst  the  most  picturesque 
countries  between  the  sea  and  Unyanyembe.  Great 
cones  shoot  upward  above  the  everlasting  forests, 
tipped  by  the  light  fleecy  clouds,  through  which  the 
warm  glowing  sun  darts  its  rays,  bathing  the  whole  in 
sunlight,  which  brings  out  of  those  globes  of  foliage 
which  rise  in  tier  after  tier  to  the  summits  of  the 
hills,  colors  which  would  mock  the  most  ambitious 
painter's  efforts  at  imitation.  Udoe  first  evokes  the 
traveller's  love  of  natural  beauty  after  leaving  the  sea  : 
her  roads  lead  him  up  along  the  sharp  spines  of  hilly 
ridges,  whence  he  may  look  down  upon  forest-clad 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  241 


slopes,  declining  on  either  side  of  him  into  the  depths 
of  deep  valleys,  to  rise  up  beyond  into  aspiring  cones 
which  kiss  the  sky,  or  into  a  high  ridge  with  deep 
concentric  folds,  which  almost  tempt  one  to  undergo 
much  labor  in  exploring  them,  for  the  provoking  air  of 
mystery  in  which  they  seem  to  be  enwrapped.  Sup- 
posing a  Byron  saw  some  of  these  scenes  in  Udoe,  he 
would  be  inclined  to  say, — 

"  Morn  dawns ;  and  with  it  stern  Udoe's  hills, 
Dark  Uruguru's  rocks,  and  Kira's  peak, 
Robed  half  in  mist,  bedewed  with  various  rills, 
Arrayed  in  many  a  dun  and  purple  streak/' 

And  how  true  each  word  would  be ! 

What  a  tale  this  tribe  could  relate  of  the  slave- 
traders'  deeds  !  Attacked  by  the  joint  forces  of  the 
Waseguhha  from  the  west  and  north,  and  the  slave- 
traders  of  Whinde  and  Sa'adani  from  the  east,  the 
Wadoe  have  seen  their  wives  and  little  ones  carried 
into  slavery  a  hundred  times,  and  district  after  district 
taken  from  their  country  and  attached  to  Useguhha. 
For  the  people  of  Useguhha  were  hired  to  attack  their 
neighbours  the  Wadoe  by  the  Whinde  slave-traders, 
and  were  also  armed  with  muskets  and  supplied  with 
ammunition  by  them  to  effect  large  and  repeated  cap- 
tures of  Wadoe  slaves.  The  people  of  this  tribe,  espe- 
cially women  and  children,  so  superior  in  physique  and 
intelligence  to  the  servile  races  by  which  they  were 
surrounded,  were  eagerly  sought  for  as  concubines  and 
domestics  by  the  lustful  Mohammedans. 

This  tribe  we  first  note  to  have  distinctive  tribal 
marks — by  a  line  of  punctures  extending  lengthwise 
on  each  side  of  the  face,  and  a  chipping  of  the  two 
inner  sides  of  the  two  middle  teeth  of  the  upper  row 

The  arms  of  this  tribe  are  similar  to  the  arms  ot  the 


242  HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 

Wakami  and  Wakwere,  and  consist  of  a  bow  aiu 
arrows,  a  shield,  a  couple  of  light  spears  or  assegais,  a 
long  knife,  a  handy  little  battleaxe,  and  a  club  with  a 
large  knob  at  one  end  of  it,  which  latter  is  dexterously- 
swung  at  the  head  of  an  enemy,  inflicting  a  stunning 
and  sometimes  a  fatal  blow 


WEAPONS  OF  WAP. 


Emerging  from  the  forests  of  Mikeseh  we  enter  the 
territory  of  the  Waseguhba,  or  Wasegura,*  as  the 
Arabs  wrongly  call  this  country.  Useguhha  extends 
over  two  degrees  in  length,  and  its  greatest  breadth  is 
ninety  geographical  miles.  It  has  two  main  divisions, 
that  of  Southern  Useguhha  from  Uruguru  to  the  Wami 

*  All  the  interior  tribes  know  this  tribe  as  the  Waseguhha,  and 
none  other.  Burton  adopts  the  Arabic  corrupted  term  Wasegura. 
Krapf,  New,  Wakefield  and  myself  have  adopted  the  native  pronun- 
ciation, Waseguhha. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  243 


River,  and  Northern  Useguhha,  under  the  chieftain 
Moto,  from  the  Wami  River  to  Umagassi  and  Usum- 
bara. 

In  the  rise  of  this  tribe  into  prominence  and  power, 
we  have  an  example  before  us  of  the  vicissitudes  which 
the  barbarian  races  have  experienced  during  ages. 
Thirty  years  ago  the  Waseguhha  were  limited  to  a 
narrow  belt  of  country  between  the  Wasambara  and 
the  Wadoe.  The  Wadoe  were  the  supreme  race  east 
of  the  Usagara  mountains,  but  the  slave-traders, 
bringing  ruin  with  them,  betrayed  them  into  the  hands 
of  organized  banditti,  consisting  of  renegade  Wamrima, 
runaway  slaves,  offenders  against  the  law  of  Zanzibar, 
convicts,  and  kidnappers,  which  infested  the  forests 
between  Usagara  and  the  sea.  These  bands  made  war 
on  some  of  the  sub-tribes  of  the  Wadoe,  and  since  the 
slaves  of  this  tribe  were  in  great  demand,  and  were 
readily  bought  owing  to  their  beauty  of  form,  their  fine 
physique  and  general  superiority,  these  raids  against 
the  tribe  increased  until  in  a  few  years  the  Wadoe  were 
almost  driven  entirely  away  from  the  fair  valleys  and 
beauteous  .  country  of  the  Ungerengeri.  Foremost 
among  these  raiders  was  the  notorious  Kisabengo, 
whom  I  have  already  traced  through  his  nefarious 
career,  to  the  time  of  his  establishing  his  stronghold, 
Simbamwenni,  near  the  Ungerengeri. 

Mostly  all  the  Waseguhha  warriors  are  armed  with 
muskets,  and  the  Arabs  supply  them  with  enough 
ammunition,  in  return  for  which  they  attack  Waruguru, 
Wadoe,  and  Wakwermi,  to  obtain  slaves  for  the  Arab 
market,  and  it  is  but  five  years  since  the  Waseguhha 
organized  a  successful  raid  into  the  very  heart  of  the 
Wasagara  mountains,  during  which  they  desolated  the 
populated  portions  of  the  Makata  plain,  capturing  over 

r  2 


244 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


five  hundred  slaves.  Formerly  wars  in  this  country 
were  caused  by  blood-feuds  between  different  chiefs; 
they  are  now  encouraged  by  the  slave-buyers  of  the 
Mrima,  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  these  human 
chattels  for  the  market  of  Zanzibar. 

The  East  African  squadron  has  the  power  to  crush 
this  hornet's  nest,  and  stop  the  inhuman  traffic  in 
slaves,  so  far  as  concerns  Useguhha's  ability  to  main- 
tain it.  Let  a  steam  launch  with  fifty  men  on  board  be 
detached  for  this  service  up  the  Wami  river.  By 
ascending  the  river  as  far  as  Kigongo's  they  would 
arrive  within  twenty  miles  of  the  town  of  Simba- 
mwenni,  which  could  be  marched  in  a  night,  and  in 
the  morning  they  could  attack  and  burn  the  place,  and 
break  up  this  nucleus  of  the  slave-trade  in  East  Africa 
at  once  and  for  ever.  The  Waseguhha,  aided  by  the 
slave-buyers,  are  the  real  scourge  of  this  part  of  East 
Africa,  and  once  their  stronghold  was  taken  and 
destroyed  they  would  be  powerless  for  evil. 

The  Waseguhha  are  about  the  most  thorough  be- 
lievers in  witchcraft,  yet  the  professors  of  this  dark 
science  fare  badly  at  their  hands.  It  is  a  very  common 
sight  to  see  cinereous  piles  on  the  roadside,  and  the 
waving  garments  suspended  to  the  branches  of  trees 
above  them,  which  mark  the  fate  of  the  unfortunate 
a  waganga  "  or  medicine  men.  So  long  as  their  pre- 
dictions prove  correct,  and  have  a  happy  culmination, 
these  professors  of  "  uchawi,"  magic  arts,  are  regarded 
with  favor  by  the  people ;  but  if  an  unusual  calamity 
overtakes  a  family,  and  they  can  swear  that  it  is  the 
result  of  the  magician's  art,  a  quorum  of  relentless  inqui- 
sitors is  soon  formed,  and  a  like  fate  to  that  which  over- 
took the  "  witches  "  in  the  dark  days  of  New  England 
surely  awaits  him.    Enough  dead  wood  is  soon  found 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  245 


m  their  African  forests,  and  the  unhappy  one  perishes 
by  fire,  and  as  a  warning  to  all  false  professors  of  the 
art,  his  loin-cloth  is  hung  up  to  a  tree  above  the  spot 
where  he  met  his  doom. 

The  Wasagara  are  mountaineers.  The  country  which 
they  inhabit  is  the  mountain  chain  and  its  immediate 
base,  extending  from  the  Makata  River  to  the  desert  of 
Marenga  Mkali,  a  breadth  of  seventy-five  geographical 
miles,  and  a  length  of  very  nearly  three  degrees  of 
latitude. 

The  mountain  range  lies  longitudinally  in  a  north-by- 
east  direction.  The  highest  peak  may  probably  have 
an  elevation  of  about  6,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Mount 
Kibwe  must  be  about  2,500  feet  above  the  Mukondokwa 
Yalley  near  Kadetamare,  and  Kadetamare  must  be 
2,000  feet  above  the  sea.  But  there  are  peaks  in  the 
Nguru  group  near  Ugombo  which  I  should  estimate 
to  be  at  least  1,500  feet  higher  than  Mount  Kibwe. 
To  the  north,  as  we  approach  the  range  from  the 
Makata  River,  the  mountains  loom  up  more  stupendous 
and  lofty  than  those  contiguous  to  the  Pass  of  the 
Mukondokwa.  On  the  tops  and  slopes  of  these  moun- 
tains the  vapours  drifted  hither  by  the  monsoon  winds 
shed  their  burden  of  water,  and  become  rivers  as  the 
streams  trickle  down  the  slopes  and  unite  in  the  valleys 
at  their  eastern  base. 

However  much  geographers  may  disagree  with  me, 
my  opinion  is  that  this  chain  of  mountains  is  to  East 
Africa  what  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  to  Central  North 
America.  I  regard  it  as  the  backbone  of  East  Africa. 
Travellers  place  Kilima-Xjnro  in  east  longitude  37°  27', 
and  Mount  Kenia  in  37°  35'  east,  and  I  place  Mount 
Kibwe  in  longitude  36°  50';  and  Burton  believes  that 
this  same  mountain  chain  of  Usagara  has  "  its  culmi- 


246 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


nating  apex  in  Njesa-Uliiyou."  If  the  Euhwha  Valley, 
through  which  the  Rufiji  issues  into  the  sea  from  the 
highlands  beyond,  is  only  a  gap  in  the  Usagara  range, 
why  is  not  the  Mukondokwa  Valley  a  gap  ?  Why 
may  not  the  low  plain  of  Uhumba,  or  Masai,  be  a  gap  ? 
Why  should  the  Ngaserai  Hills,  the  mountain  group  of 
Kilima-Njaro,  the  snowy  peak  of  Kenia,  its  southern 
neighbour  Doeno  Camwea,  and  its  northern  neighbour 
Msarara  Mount,  all  heaving  upward  on  the  same 
line  of  longitude,  not  belong  to  this  same  Usagara 
Range  ? 

The  same  effect  observable  in  the  plains  to  the  east 
and  the  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  is  visible  at 
either  base  of  the  Usagara  Range.  In  Western  North 
America  it  is  well  known  that  the  Plain  of  Colorado, 
Wyoming,  and  a  large  portion  of  Nebraska,  on  the 
east,  and  that  portion  of  Colorado  and  Utah  at  the 
western  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  do  not  appear  to 
possess  that  remarkable  fertility  observable  near  the 
Missouri  River  and  eastward,  or  west  of  Utah.  These 
denuded  regions  of  America  are  from  500  to  800  miles 
in  breadth  on  either  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
have  a  length  of  nearly  2,000  miles.  But  it  must  be  re- 
membered that  the  Rocky  Mountains  have  an  average 
altitude  of  about  11,000  or  12,000  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Such  gigantic  physical  features  are  not  to 
be  seen  in  East  Africa.  I  should  estimate  the  average 
altitude  of  the  more  easterly  portion  of  the  Usagara 
Range  to  be  about  3,500  feet  above  the  sea  level,  while 
the  most  westerly  should  be  estimated  at  1,000  feet 
higher.  The  Makata  Plain  or  Valley,  east  of  Usagara, 
has  the  same  denuded  appearance  that  our  western 
plains  have,  and  the  region  west  of  Usagara,  embracing 
the  whole  of  Marenga  Mkali  and  Ugogo,  may  be  com- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  247 


pared,  for  the  effect  given  by  its  denuded  sterile 
aspect  and  saline  incrustations,  to  Utah  and  Western 
Colorado. 

But  in  Uyanzi,  west  of  Ugogo,  the  country  heaves 
upward  longitudinally  into  an  altitude  of  about  1,000 
feet  higher  than  the  plain  of  Ugogo,  and  the  conse- 
quence is  that  as  they  intercept  the  vapors  borne 
westward  by  the  monsoons,  they  appear  more  pro- 
ductive, second  only  in  fertility  to  the  Valley  of  the 
Mukondokwa.  This  sterile  region,  embracing  the 
Marenga  Mkali,  though  it  has  only  a  breadth  of  about 
100  to  150  geographical  miles,  has  a  length  of  about 
600  geographical  miles,  perhaps  more. 

In  Southern  Usagara  the  people  are  most  amiable ; 
but  in  the  north,  in  those  districts  adjacent  to  the 
Wahumba,  the  people  partake  of  the  ferocious  character 
of  their  fierce  neighbours.  Repeated  attacks  from  the 
Waseguhha  kidnappers,  from  the  Wadirigo  or  Wahehe 
robbers  on  the  south-west,  from  the  Wagogo  on  the 
west,  and  from  the  Wahumba  on  the  north — have 
caused  them  to  regard  strangers  with  suspicion,  but 
after  a  short  acquaintance  they  prove  to  be  a  frank, 
amiable,  and  brave  people.  Indeed,  they  have  good 
cause  to  be  distrustful  of  the  Arabs  and  the  Wangwana 
<»f  Zanzibar.  Mbumi,  Eastern  Usagara,  has  been  twice 
burnt  down  within  a  few  years  by  the  Arab  and 
Waseguhha  kidnappers ;  Rehenneko  has  met  the  same 
fate,  and  it  is  not  many  years  ago  since  Abdullah  bin 
Nasib  carried  fire  and  sword  from  Misonghi  to 
Mpwapwa.  Kanyaparu,  lord  of  the  hills  around 
Chunyo,  or  Kunyo,  once  cultivated  one-fourth  of  the 
Marenga  Mkali,  but  is  now  restricted  to  the  hill-tops 
from  fear  of  the  Wadirigo  marauders. 

In  Eastern  Usagara  the  broad  distinctions  which 


248 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


mark  the  pure  TTasagara  from  the  Waseguhha  are  not 
to  be  seen.  We  first  find  them  among  the  villages  of 
Mpwapwa.  Here  the  long  slender  ringlets,  ornamented 
with  brass  and  copper  pendicles,  balls,  with  bright  pice 
from  Zanzibar,  with  a  thin  line  of  miniature  beads 
running  here  and  there  among  the  ringlets,  are  first 
seen.  A  youthful  Msagara,  with  a  faint  tinge  of  ochre 
embrowning  the  dull  black  hue  of  his  face,  with  four  or 
five  bright  copper  coin  ranged  over  his  forehead,  with 


YOUTHFUL  WAS  AGAR  A. 


a  tiny  gourd's  neck  in  each  ear,  distending  his  ear- 
lobes,  with  a  thousand  ringlets  well  greased  and  orna- 
mented with  tiny  bits  of  brass  and  copper,  with  a  head 
well  thrown  back,  broad  breast  thrown  well  forward, 
and  muscular  arms,  and  full-proportioned  limbs,  repre- 
sents the  beau-ideal  of  a  handsome  young  African 
savage. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  249 


The  Wasagara,  male  and  female,  tattoo  the  forehead, 
bosom,  and  arms.  Besides  inserting  the  neck  of  a 
gourd  in  each  ear — which  carries  his  little  store  of  "  turo- 
bac,"  or  tobacco,  and  lime  which  he  has  obtained  by 
burning  land  shells — he  carries  quite  a  number  of  most 
primitive  ornaments  around  his  neck,  such  as  two  or 
three  snowy  cowrie-shells,  carved  pieces  of  wood,  or  a 
small  goat's  horn,  or  some  medicine  consecrated  by  the 
medicine-man  of  the  tribe,  a  fundo  of  white  or  red 
beads,  or  two  or  three  pierced  Sungomazzi  egg-beads, 
or  a  string  of  copper  coin,  and  sometimes  small  brass 
chains,  like  a  Cheap  Jack  watch-chain.  These  things 
thev  have  either  made  themselves  or  purchased  from 
Arab  traders  for  chickens  or  goats.  The  children  all 
go  naked ;  youths  wear  a  goat  or  a  sheep-skin ;  grown 
men  and  women,  blessed  with  progeny,  wear  domestic, 
or  a  loin-cloth  of  Kaniki,  or  a  barsati,  which  is  a 
favourite  coloured  cloth  in  Usagara ;  chiefs  wear  caps 
such  as  are  worn  by  the  Wamrima  Diwans,  or  the  Arab 
tarboosh. 

Next  on  our  line  of  march  appear  the  Wagogo,  a 
powerful  race  inhabiting  the  region  west  of  Usagara 
to  Uyanzi,  which  is  about  eighty  miles  in  breadth,  and 
about  one  hundred  in  length.  The  traveller  has  to 
exercise  great  prudence,  discretion,  and  judgment  in 
his  dealings  with  them.  Here  he  first  hears  the  word 
u  honga,"  after  passing  Simbamwenni,  a  word  which 
signifies  now,  tribute,  though  it  formerly  meant  a 
present  to  a  friend.  Since  it  is  exacted  from  him  with 
threats  that  if  it  is  not  paid,  they  will  make  war  on 
him,  its  best  interpretation  would  be,  "  force-extorted 
tribute"  or  toll. 

The  following  are  three  routes  through  Ugogo,  from 
which  the  traveller  may  take  his  choice,  and  the  sum 


250  HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


of  the  tribute  to  be  paid  by  a  caravan  of  a  hundred  and 
fifty  men. 


Northern. 

Tribute. ' 

Central. 

Tribute. 

Southern. 

Tribute. 

Plinth  a 

ninth a 

Mvumi 

35 

Mvumi . 

35 

Kifukuru 

25 

Matamburu  . 

24 

Mubalata  . 

25 

Kisewab. 

30 

Bihawana 

10 

TIT  £ 

Mafanya 

15 

Kanyeni . 

40 

Kididimo  . 

26 

Kanyenyi  . 

50 

Sanza 

15 

Peinbera  Pereb 

30  | 

Sanza  . 

15 

Usekke  . 

21 

Mizanza  . 

22 

Kbonse . 

20 

Kbonko  . 

20 

Mukondoku  . 

32  j 

Kbonko 

20 

Kiwyeb  . 

27 

Kiwyeh 

27 

179 

197 

178 

These  cloths  are  only  paid  by  the  up-caravans  ;  hoes 
and  ivory  are  generally  taken  by  the  return  caravans. 

Naturally,  if  the  traveller  desires  to  be  mulcted  of  a 
large  sum,  he  will  find  the  Wagogo  ready  to  receive 
every  shred  of  cloth  he  gives  them.  Mvumi  will 
demand  sixty  cloths,  and  will  wonder  at  his  own  mag- 
nanimity in  asking  for  such  a  small  number  of  cloths 
from  a  great  Musungu  (white  man).  The  traveller, 
however,  will  be  wise  if  he  permits  his  chief  men  to 
deal  with  them,  after  enjoining  them  to  be  careful,  and 
not  to  commit  themselves  too  hastily  to  any  number. 

They  are,  physically  and  intellectually,  the  best  of  the 
races  between  Unyamwezi  and  the  sea.  Their  colour 
is  a  rich  dark  brown.  There  is  something  in  their 
frontal  aspect  which  is  almost  leonine.  Their  faces 
are  broad  and  intelligent.  Their  eyes  are  large  and 
round.  Their  noses  are  flat,  and  their  mouths  are  very 
large ;  but  their  lips,  though  thick,  are  not  so  mon- 
strously thick  as  those  our  exaggerated  ideal  of  a  negro 
has.  For  all  this,  though  the  Mgogo  is  a  ferocious  man, 
capable  of  proceeding  to  any  length  upon  the  slightest 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  251 


temptation,  he  is  an  attractive  figure  to  a  white 
traveller.  He  is  proud  of  his  chief,  proud  of  his 
country,  sterile  and  unloveable  though  it  be ;  he  is 
proud  of  himself,  his  prowess,  his  weapons,  and  his 
belongings;  he  is  vain,  terribly  egotistic,  a  bully,  and  a 
tyrant,  yet  the  Mgogo  is  capable  of  forming  friend- 
ships, and  of  exerting  himself  for  friendship's  sake. 
One  grand  vice  in  his  character,  which  places  him  in  a 
hostile  light  to  travellers,  is  his  exceeding  avarice,  and 
greed  for  riches  ;  and  if  the  traveller  suffers  by  this,  he 
is  not  likely  to  be  amiably  disposed  towards  him. 

This  sturdy  native,  with  his  rich  complexion,  his 
lion  front,  menacing  aspect,  bullying  nature,  haughty, 
proud,  overbearing,  and  quarrelsome,  is  a  mere  child 
with  a  man  who  will  devote  himself  to  the  study  of  his 
nature,  and  not  offend  his  vanity.  He  is  easily  amused, 
as  his  curiosity  is  easily  aroused.  A  traveller  with  an 
angular  disposition  is  sure  to  quarrel  with  him  ;  but  in 
presence  of  this  rude  child  of  nature,  especially  when 
he  is  so  powerful,  it  is  to  his  advantage  and  personal 
safety  to  soften  these  angles  of  his  own  nature.  The 
Kigogo  "  Rob  Roy  "  is  on  his  native  ground,  and  has  a 
decided  advantage  over  the  white  foreigner.  He  is 
not  brave,  but  he  is  at  least  conscious  of  the  traveller's 
weakness,  and  he  is  disposed  to  take  advantage  of  it, 
but  is  prevented  from  committing  an  act  because  it  is 
for  his  interest  to  keep  the  peace.  Any  violence  to  a 
traveller  would  close  the  road  ;  caravans  would  seek 
other  ways,  and  the  chiefs  would  be  deprived  of  much 
of  their  revenue. 

The  Mgogo  warrior  carries  as  his  weapons  a  bow, 
and  a  sheaf  of  murderous-looking  arrows,  pointed, 
pronged,  and  barbed  ;  a  couple  of  light,  beautifully- 
made  assegais,  a  broad  sword-like  spear,  with  a  blade 


262 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE, 


over  two  feet  long ;  a  battle-axe,  and  a  rungu,  or  knob- 
club.  He  has  also  a  shield,  painted  with  designs  in 
black  and  white,  oval-shaped,  sometimes  of  rhinoceros, 
or  elephant,  or  bull-hide.  From  the  time  he  was  a 
toddling  urchin  he  has  been  familiar  with  his  weapons, 
and  by  the  time  he  was  fifteen  years  old  he  was  an 
adept  with  them. 

He  is  armed  for  battle  in  a  very  short  time.  The 
messenger  from  the  chief  darts  from  village  to  village 
and  blows  his  ox-horn,  the  signal  for  war.  The  warrior 
hears  it,  throws  his  hoe  over  his  shoulder,  enters  his 
house,  and  in  a  few  seconds  issues  out  again,  arrayed 
in  war  paint,  and  full  fighting  costume.  Feathers  of 
the  ostrich,  or  the  eagle,  or  the  vulture,  nod  above  his 
head  ;  his  long  crimson  robe  streams  behind  him,  his 
shield  is  on  his  left  arm,  his  darting  assegai  in  liis  left 
hand,  and  his  ponderous  man-cleaver — double-edged 
and  pointed,  heading  a  strong  staff — is  in  his  right 
hand  ;  jingling  bells  are  tied  around  his  ancles  and 
knees ;  ivory  wristlets  are  on  his  arms,  with  which  he 
sounds  his  approach.  With  the  plodding  peasant's  hoe 
he  has  dropped  the  peasant's  garb,  and  is  now  the 
proud,  vain,  exultant  warrior — bounding  aloft  like  a 
gymnast,  eagerly  sniffing  the  battle-field. 

The  strength  and  power  of  the  Wagogo  are  derived 
from  their  numbers.  Though  caravans  of  Wagogo 
sometimes  are  found  passing  up  and  down  along  the 
Unyamwezi  road,  they  are  not  so  generally  employed 
as  the  Wanyamwezi  in  trade.  Their  villages  are  thus 
always  full  of  warriors.  Weak  tribes,  or  remnants  of 
tribes,  are  very  glad  to  be  admitted  under  their  pro- 
tection. Individuals  of  other  tribes,  also,  who  have 
been  obliged  to  exile  themselves  from  their  own  tribes, 
for  some  deed  of  violence,  are  often  found  in  the 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  253 


villages  of  the  Wagogo.  In  the  north,  the  Wahumba 
are  very  numerous;  in  the  south  may  be  found  the 
Wahehe  and  Wakimbu,  and  in  the  east  may  be  found 
many  a  family  from  Usagara.  Wanyamwezi  are  also 
frequently  found  in  this  country.  Indeed  these  latter 
people  are  like  Scotchmen,  they  may  be  found  almost 
everywhere  throughout  Central  Africa,  and  have  a 
knack  of  pushing  themselves  into  prominence. 

As  in  Western  Usagara  the  houses  of  the  Wagogo 
are  square,  arranged  around  the  four  sides  of  an  area — 
to  which  all  the  doors  open.    The  roofs  are  all  flat, 


bird's-eye  view  of  a  tembe. 


on  which  are  spread  the  grain,  herbs,  tobacco,  and 
pumpkins.  The  back  of  each  apartment  is  pierced  with 
small  holes  for  observation  and  for  defence. 

The  tembe  is  a  fragile  affair  as  constructed  in  Ugogo ; 
it  merely  consists  of  a  line  of  slender  sticks  daubed 
over  with  mud,  with  three  or  four  strong  poles  planted 


254 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


at  intervals  to  support  the  beams  and  rafters  on  which 
rests  the  flat  clay  roof.  A  musket-ball  pierces  the 
wattled  walls  of  a  Kigogo  tembe  through  and  through. 
In  Uyanzi  the  tembe  is  a  formidable  affair,  because  of 
the  abundance  of  fine  trees,  which  are  cut  down  and 
split  into  rails  three  or  four  inches  thick. 

The  tembe  is  divided  into  apartments,  separated  from 
each  other  by  a  wattled  wall.  Each  apartment  may 
contain  a  family  of  grown-up  boys  and  girls,  who  form 
their  beds  on  the  floor  out  of  dressed  hides.  The  father 
of  the  family,  only,  has  a  kitanda,  or  fixed  cot  made  of 
oxhide  stretched  over  a  frame,  or  of  the  bark  of  the 
myombo  tree.  The  floor  is  of  tamped  mud,  and  is 
exceedingly  filthy,  smelling  strongly  of  every  abomina- 
tion. In  the  corners,  suspended  to  the  rafters,  are  the 
fine  airy  dwellings  of  black  spiders  of  very  large  size, 
and  other  monstrous  insects. 

Eats,  a  peculiarly  long-headed,  dun-colored  species, 
infest  every  tembe.  Cows,  goats,  sheep,  and  cats  are 
the  only  domestic  animals  permitted  to  dwell  within 
the  tembe.  The  clogs  (the  pariah  breed)  lodge  outside 
with  the  cattle. 

The  Wagogo  believe  in  the  existence  of  a  god,  or  sky 
spirit,  whom  they  call  Mulungu.  Their  prayers  are  gene- 
rally directed  to  him,  when  their  parents  die.  A  Mgogo, 
after  he  has  consigned  his  father  to  the  grave,  collects  his 
father  s  chattels  together,  his  cloth,  his  ivory,  his  knife, 
his  jembe  (hoe),  his  bows  and  arrows,  his  spears,  and  his 
cattle,  and  kneels  before  them  repeating  a  wish  that  Mu- 
lungu would  increase  his  worldly  wealth,  that  he  would 
bless  his  labours,  and  make  him  successful  in  trade. 

The  following  conversation  occurred  between  myself 
and  a  Mgogo  trader  : 

"  Who  do  you  suppose  made  your  parents  ?" 

"  Why,  Mulungu,  white  man !" 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  256 


"  Well,  who  made  you  ?" 

66  If  God  made  my  father,  God  made  me,  didn't  he?" 

"  That's  very  good.  Where  do  you  suppose  your 
father  is  gone  to,  now  that  he  is  dead  ?" 

"  The  dead  die,"  said  he,  solemnly :  "  they  are  no 
more.  The  sultan  dies,  he  becomes  nothing — he  is  then 
no  better  than  a  dead  dog,  he  is  finished,  his  words  are 
finished — there  are  no  wrords  from  him.  It  is  true,"  he 
added,  seeing  a  smile  on  my  face,  "  the  sultan  becomes 
nothing.    He  who  says  other  words  is  a  liar.    There !" 

"  But  then  he  is  a  very  great  man,  is  he  not?" 

"  While  he  lives  only — after  death  he  goes  into  the 
pit,  and  there  is  no  more  to  be  said  of  him  than  of  any 
other  man." 

u  How  do  you  bury  a  Mgogo  ?" 

"  His  legs  are  tied  together,  his  right  arm  to  his 
body,  and  his  left  is  put  under  his  head.  He  is  then 
rolled  on  his  left  side  in  the  grave.  His  cloth  he  wore 
during  his  life  is  spread  over  him.  We  put  the  earth 
over  him,  and  put  thorn  bushus  over  it  to  prevent  the 
fizi  (hyaena)  from  getting  at  him.  A  woman  is  put 
on  her  right  side  in  a  grave  apart  from  the  man." 

"  What  do  you  do  with  the  sultan  when  he  is  dead  ?  " 

"We  bury  him  too,  of  course,  only  he  is  buried  in 
the  middle  of  the  village,  and  we  build  a  house  over 
it.  Each  time  they  kill  an  ox,  they  kill  before  his 
grave.  When  the  old  sultan  dies,  the  new  one  calls  foi 
an  ox,  and  kills  it  before  his  grave,  calling  on  Mulnngu 
to  witness  that  he  is  the  rightful  sultan.  He  then 
distributes  the  meat  in  his  father's  name." 

"  Who  succeeds  the  sultan.    Is  he  the  eldest  son  ?" 

u  Yes,  if  he  has  a  son  ;  if  childless,  the  great  chief 
next  to  him  in  rank.  The  msagira  is  the  next  to 
the  sultan,  whose  business  it  is  to  hear  the  cause  of 


356 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


complaint  and  convey  it  to  the  sultan,  who,  through  the 
sultan,  dispenses  justice  ;  he  receives  the  honga,  carries 
it  to  the  mtemi  (sultan),  places  it  before  him,  and 
when  the  sultan  has  taken  what  he  wishes,  the  rest 
goes  to  the  msagira.  The  chiefs  are  called  manya-para; 
the  msagira  is  the  chief  manya-para." 

"  How  do  the  Wagogo  marry  ?" 

"  Oh,  they  buy  their  women." 

"  What  is  a  woman  worth  ?" 

"  A  very  poor  man  can  buy  his  wife  from  her  father 
for  a  couple  of  goats." 

"  How  much  has  the  sultan  got  to  pay?" 

"  He  has  got  to  pay  about  one  hundred  goats,  or  so 
many  cows,  so  many  sheep  and  goats,  to  his  bride's  father. 
Of  course  he  is  a  chief.  The  sultan  would  not  buy  a 
common  woman.  The  father's  consent  is  to  be  obtained, 
and  the  cattle  have  to  be  given  up.  It  takes  many 
days  to  finish  the  talk  about  it.  All  the  family  and 
friends  of  the  bride  have  to  talk  about  it  before  she 
leaves  her  father's  house." 

"  In  cases  of  murder,  what  do  you  do  to  the  man 
who  kills  another  ?" 

"  The  murderer  has  to  pay  fifty  cows.  If  he  is  too 
poor  to  pay,  the  sultan  gives  his  permission  to  the 
murdered  man's  friends  or  relatives  to  kill  him.  It 
they  catch  him,  they  tie  him  to  a  tree,  and  throw  spears 
at  him — one  at  a  time  first :  they  then  spring  on  him, 
cut  his  head  off,  then  his  arms,  and  limbs,  and  scatter 
them  about  the  country." 

"  How  do  you  punish  a  thief?" 

"  If  he  is  found  stealing,  he  is  killed  at  once,  and 
nothing  is  said  about  it.    Is  he  not  a  thief  ?" 

"  But  suppose  you  do  not  know  who  the  thief  is  ?" 
u  If  a  man  is  brought  before  us  accused  of  stealing, 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  257 

we  kill  a  chicken.  If  the  entrails  are  white ,  he  is 
innocent — if  yellow,  he  is  guilty.' ' 

<k  Do  you  believe  in  witchcraft  ?" 

"Of  course  we  do,  and  punish  the  man  with  death 
if  he  bewitches  cattle,  or  stops  rain." 

Next  to  Ugogo  is  Uyanzi,  or  the  "  Magunda  Mkali 91 
— the  Hot  Field.  In  former  days  before  the  Magunda 
Mkali  was  inhabited  by  emigrants  from  Ukimbu,  carriers 
complained  of  the  excessive  heat  and  thirst  they  suffered 
during  its  transit.  Water  was  scarce  on  the  route  they 
adopted,  and  the  all-day  marches  were  frequent :  hence 
it  was  termed  by  the  Wanyamwezi  pagazis  the  "  Hot 
Field." 

Uyanzi,  or  Magunda  Mkali,  is  at  present  very 
populous.  Along  the  northern  route — that  leading 
via  Munieka — water  is  plentiful  enough,  villages  are 
frequent,  and  travellers  begin  to  perceive  that  the  title 
is  inappropriate.  The  people  who  inhabit  the  country 
are  Wakimbu  from  the  south.  They  are  good  agricul- 
turists, and  are  a  most  industrious  race.  They  are  some- 
thing like  the  Wasagara  in  appearance,  but  do  not 
obtain  a  very  high  reputation  for  bravery.  Their 
weapons  consist  of  light  spears,  bows  and  arrows,  and 
battle-axes.  Their  tembes  are  strongly  made,  showing 
considerable  skill  in  the  art  of  defensive  constructions. 
Their  bomas  are  so  well  made,  that  one  would  require 
cannon  to  effect  an  entrance,  if  the  villages  were  at  all 
defended.  They  are  skilful  also  in  constructing  traps 
for  elephants  and  buffaloes.  A  stray  lion  or  leopard  is 
sometimes  caught  by  them. 

After  marching  through  Magunda  Mkali,  we  come 
to  Unyamwezi,  or  the  Land  of  the  Moon ;  but  I  shall 
leave  a  description  of  the  people  inhabiting  this  in- 
teresting district  to  a  future  chapter. 

8 


VIEW  IN  FRONT  OF  MY  TEMBE. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 

I  received  a  noiseless  ovation  as  I  walked  side  by 
side  with  the  governor,  Sayd  bin  Salim,  towards 
his  tembe  in  Kwikuru,  or  the  capital.  The  Wanyam- 
wezi  pagazis  were  out  by  hundreds,  the  warriors  of 
Mkasiwa,  the  sultan,  hovered  around  their  chief,  the 
children — naked  dusky  cherubs — were  seen  between  the 
legs  of  their  parents,  even  infants,  a  few  months  old, 
slung  over  their  mothers'  backs,  all  paid  the  tribute 
due  to  my  color,  with  one  grand  concentrated  stare. 
The  only  persons  who  talked  with  me  were  the  Arabs, 
and  aged  Mkasiwa,  ruler  of  Unyanyembe. 

Sayd  bin  Salim's  house  was  at  the  north-western 
corner  of  the  inclosure,  a  stockaded  boma  of  Kwikuru, 


June,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


259 


We  had  tea  made  in  a  silver  tea-pot,  and  a  bountiful 
supply  of  "  dampers  "  were  smoking  under  a  silver 
cover  ;  and  to  this  repast  I  was  invited.  When  a  man 
has  walked  eight  miles  or  so  without  any  breakfast, 
and  a  hot  tropical  sun  has  been  shining  on  him  for  three 
or  four  hours,  he  is  apt  to  do  justice  to  a  meal,  especially 
if  his  appetite  is  healthy.  I  think  I  astonished  the 
governor  by  the  dexterous  way  in  which  I  managed 
to  consume  eleven  cups  of  his  aromatic  concoction  of  an 
Assam  herb,  and  the  easy  effortless  style  with  which  I 
demolished  his  high  tower  of  "  slap-jacks,"  that  but  a 
minute  or  so  smoked  hotlv  under  their  silver  cover. 

For  the  meal,  I  thanked  the  Sheikh,  as  only  an  earnest 
and  sincerely  hungry  man,  now  satisfied,  could  thank 
him.  Even  if  I  had  not  spoken,  my  gratified  looks 
had  well  informed  him,  under  what  obligations  I  had 
been  laid  to  him. 

Out  came  my  pipe  and  tobacco-pouch. 

44  My  friendly  Sheikh,  wilt  thou  smoke  ?" 

"  No,  thanks  !  Arabs  never  smoke." 

'4  Oh,  if  you  don't,  perhaps  you  would  not  object  to 
me  smoking,  in  order  to  assist  digestion  ?" 

44  Nghema — good — go  on,  master."  v  Then  began  the 
questions,  the  gossipy,  curious,  serious,  light  questions  : 

"  How  came  the  master  ?" 

"  By  the  Mpwapwa  road." 

"  It  is  good.    Was  the  Makata  bad  ?" 

"  Yery  bad." 

44  What  news  from  Zanzibar  ?" 

44  Good  ;  Syed  Toorkee  has  possession  of  Muscat^  and 
Azim  bin  Ghis  was  slain  in  the  streets. 
44  Is  this  true,  Wallahi  T  (by  God.) 
44  It  is  true." 

44  Heh-heh-h  !    This  is  news  ;" — stroking  his  beard. 

s  2 


260 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


"  Have  you  heard,  master,  of  Suleiman  bin  Ali  ?" 

"  Yes,  the  Bombay  governor  sent  him  to  Zanzibar,  in 
a  man-of-war,  and  Suleiman  bin  Ali  now  lies  in  the 
gurayza  (fort)." 

"  Heh,  that  is  very  good." 

"  Did  you  have  to  pay  much  tribute  to  the  Wagogo  ?" 

"  Eight  times ;  Hamed  Kimiani  wished  me  to  go  by 
Kiwyeh,  but  I  declined,  and  struck  through  the  forest 
to  Munieka.  Hamed  and  Thani  thought  it  better  to 
follow  me,  than  brave  Kiwyeh  by  themselves." 

"  Where  is  that  Hajji  Abdullah  that  came  here,  and 
Spiki  ?" 

'•Hajji  Abdullah!  What  Hajji  Abdullah?  Ah! 
Sheikh  Burton  we  call  him.  Oh,  he  is  a  great  man 
now  ;  a  balyuz,  at  El  Scham." 

"  Heh-heh  ;  balyuz  !  Heh,  at  El  Scham  !  Is  not  that 
near  Betlem  el  Kudis  ?" 

u  Yes,  about  four  days.  Spiki  is  dead.  He  shot  him- 
self by  accident." 

"Ah,  ah,  Wallah  (by  God),  but  this  is  bad  news. 
Spiki  dead  ?  Mash- Allah  !  Ough,  he  was  a  good  man — 
a  good  man  !   Dead  !" 

"  But  where  is  this  Kazeh,  Sheikh  Sayd  ?" 

"Kazeh?  Kazeh?  I  never  heard  the  name  before." 

a  But  you  were  with  Burton,  and  Speke,  and  the 
other  man,  Grant,  at  Kazeh ;  you  lived  there  several 
months,  when  you  were  all  stopping  in  Unyanyembe ; 
it  must  be  close  here  somewhere.  Where  did  Hajji 
Abdullah  and  Spiki  live  when  they  were  in  Unyan- 
yembe ?    Was  it  not  in  Musa  Mzuri's  house  ?" 

"  That  was  in  Tabora." 

u  Well,  then,  where  is  Kazeh  ?  I  have  never  seen  the 
man  yet  who  could  tell  me  where  that  place  is,  and  yet 
the  three  white  men  have  that  word  down,  as  the 


June,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


261 


name  of  the  place  they  lived  at  when  you  were  with 
them.    You  must  know  where  it  is." 

"  Wallahi,  bana,  I  never  heard  the  name ;  but  stop, 
Kazeh,  in  Kinyamwezi,  means  'kingdom.'  Perhaps  they 
gave  that  name  to  the  place  they  stopped  at.  But  then, 
I  used  to  call  the  first  house  Sny  bin  Amer's  house, 
and  Speke  and  Grant  lived  at  Musa  Mzuri's  house,  but 
both  houses,  as  well  as  all  the  rest,  are  in  Tabora." 

"  Thank  you,  Sheikh.  I  should  like  to  go  and  look 
after  my  people ;  they  must  all  be  wanting  food." 

"  I  shall  go  with  you  to  show  you  your  house.  The 
tembe  is  in  Kwihara,  only  an  hour's  walk  from  Tabora." 

On  leaving  Kwikuru  we  crossed  a  low  ridge,  and 
soon  saw  Kwihara  lying  between  two  low  ranges  of 
hills,  the  northernmost  of  which  was  terminated  west- 
ward by  the  round  fortress-like  hill  of  Zimbili.  There 
was  a  cold  glare  of  intense  sunshine  over  the  valley, 
probably  the  effect  of  an  universal  bleakness  or  an 
autumnal  ripeness  of  the  grass,  unrelieved  by  any 
depth  of  color  to  vary  the  universal  sameness.  The 
hills  were  bleached,  or  seemed  to  be,  under  that  dazzling 
sunshine,  and  clearest  atmosphere.  The  corn  had 
long  been  cut,  and  there  lay  the  stubble,  and  fields, — a 
browny-white  expanse ;  the  houses  were  of  mud,  and 
their  flat  roofs  were  of  mud,  and  the  mud  was  of  a 
browny-whiteness ;  the  huts  were  thatched,  and  the 
stockades  around  them  of  barked  timber,  and  these  were 
of  a  browny  whiteness.  The  cold,  fierce,  sickly  wind 
from  the  mountains  of  Usagara  sent  a  deadly  chill  to 
our  very  marrows,  yet  the  intense  sunshiny  glare  never 
changed,  a  black  cow  or  two,  or  a  tall  tree  here  and 
there,  caught  the  eye  for  a  moment,  but  they  never 
made  one  forget  that  the  first  impression  of  Kwihara 
was  as  of  a  picture  without  color,  or  of  food  without 


262 


ROW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


taste ;  and  if  one  looked  up,  there  was  a  sky  of  a  pale 
blue,  spotless,  and  of  an  awful  serenity. 

As  I  approached  the  tembe  of  Sayd  bin  Salim,  Sheikh 
bin  Nasib  and  other  great  Arabs  joined  us.  Before  the 
great  door  of  the  tembe  the  men  had  stacked  the  bales, 
and  piled  the  boxes,  and  were  using  their  tongues  at  a 
furious  rate,  relating  to  the  chiefs  and  soldiers  of  the 
first,  second,  and  fourth  caravans,  the  many  events 
which  had  befallen  them,  and  wThich  seemed  to  them 
the  only  things  worth  relating.  Outside  of  their  own 
limited  circles  they  evidently  cared  for  nothing.  Then 
the  several  chiefs  of  the  other  caravans  had  in  turn  to 
relate  their  experiences  of  the  road ;  and  the  noise  of 
tongues  was  loud  and  furious.  But  as  we  approached,  all 
this  loud-sounding  gabble  ceased,  and  my  caravan  chiefs 
and  guides  rushed  to  me  to  hail  me  as  "  master,"  and  to 
salute  me  as  their  friend.  One  fellow,  faithful  Baruti, 
threw  himself  at  my  feet,  the  others  fired  their  guns  and 
acted  like  madmen  suddenly  become  frenzied,  and  a 
general  cry  of  <;  welcome  "  was  heard  on  all  sides. 

"  Walk  in,  master,  this  is  your  house,  now ;  here  are 
your  men's  quarters ;  here  you  will  receive  the  great 
Arabs,  here  is  the  cook-house,  here  is  the  store-house ; 
here  is  the  prison  for  the  refractory ;  here  are  your  white 
man's  apartments ;  and  these  are  your  own  :  see,  here  is 
the  bedroom,  here  is  the  gun-room,  bath-room,  (fee. ;"  so 
Sheikh  Sayd  talked,  as  he  showed  me  the  several  places. 

On  my  honor,  it  was  a  most  comfortable  place,  this, 
in  Central  Africa.  One  could  almost  wax  poetic,  but 
we  will  keep  such  ambitious  ideas  for  a  future  day. 
Just  now,  however,  we  must  have  the  goods  stored,  and 
the  little  army  of  carriers  paid  off  and  disbanded. 

Bombay  was  ordered  to  unlock  the  strong  store- 
room, to  pile  the  bales  in  regular  tiers,  the  beads  in 


June,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


263 


rows  one  aDove  another,  and  the  wire  in  a  separate 
place.  The  boats,  canvas,  &c,  were  to  be  placed  high 
above  reach  of  white  ants,  and  the  boxes  of  ammunition 
and  powder  kegs  were  to  be  stored  in  the  gun-room, 
out  of  reach  of  danger.  Then  a  bale  of  cloth  was 
opened,  and  each  carrier  was  rewarded  according  to 
his  merits,  that  each  of  them  might  proceed  home  to 
his  friends  and  neighbours,  and  tell  them  how  much 
better  the  white  man  behaved,  than  the  Arabs. 

The  reports  of  the  leaders  of  the  first,  second,  and 
fourth  caravans  were  then  received,  their  separate 
stores  inspected,  and  the  details  and  events  of  their 
marches  heard.  The  first  caravan  had  been  engaged  in 
a  war  at  Kirurumo,  and  had  come  out  of  the  fight 
successful,  and  had  reached  Unyanyembe  without  loss 
of  anything.  The  second  had  shot  a  thief  in  the 
forest  between  Pembera  Pereh  and  Kididimo ;  the 
fourth  had  lost  a  bale  in  the  jungle  of  Marenga  Mkali, 
and  the  porter  who  carried  it  had  received  a  "  very 
sore  head"  from  a  knob  stick  wielded  by  one  of  the 
thieves,  who  prowl  about  the  jungle  near  the  frontier 
of  Ugogo.  I  was  delighted  to  find  that  their  mis- 
fortunes were  no  more,  and  each  leader  was  then  and 
there  rewarded  with  one  handsome  cloth,  and  five  doti 
of  Merikani. 

Just  as  I  began  to  feel  hungry  again,  came  several 
slaves  in  succession,  bearing  trays  full  of  good  things 
from  the  Arabs  ;  first  an  enormous  dish  of  rice,  with  a 
bowlful  of  curried  chicken,  another  with  a  dozen  huge 
wheaten  cakes,  another  with  a  plateful  of  smoking  hot 
crullers,  another  with  jDapaws,  another  with  pome- 
granates and  lemons ;  after  these  came  men  driving 
five  fat  hump-backed  oxen,  eight  sheep,  and  ten  goats, 
and  another  man  came  with  a  dozen  chickens,  and  a 


2f.4 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


dozen  fresh  eggs.  This  was  real,  practical,  noble 
courtesy,  munificent  hospitality,  which  quite  took  my 
gratitude  by  storm. 

My  people,  now  reduced  to  twenty-five,  were  as 
delighted  at  the  prodigal  plenitude  visible  on  my  tables 
and  in  my  yard,  as  I  was  myself.  And,  as  I  saw  their 
eyes  light  up  at  the  unctuous  anticipations  presented  to 
them  by  their  riotous  fancies,  I  ordered  a  bullock  to  be 
slaughtered  and  distributed. 

The  second  day  of  the  arrival  of  the  "  New  York 
Herald  Expedition  "  in  the  country  which  I  now  looked 
upon  as  classic  ground,  since  Capts.  Burton,  Speke,  and 
Grant  years  ago  had  visited  it,  and  described  it,  came 
the  Arab  magnates  from  Tabora  to  congratulate  me. 

Tabora*  is  the  principal  Arab  settlement  in  Central 
Africa.  It  contains  over  a  thousand  huts  and  tembes, 
and  one  may  safely  estimate  the  population,  Arabs, 
Wangwana,  and  natives,  at  five  thousand  people. 
Between  Tabora  and  the  next  settlement,  Kwihara, 
rise  two  rugged  hill  ridges,  separated  from  each  other 
by  a  low  saddle,  over  the  top  of  which  Tabora  is  always 
visible  from  Kwihara. 

They  were  a  fine,  handsome  body  of  men,  these 
Arabs.  They  mostly  hailed  from  Oman;  others  were 
Wasawahili;  and  each  of  my  visitors  had  quite  a  re- 
tinue with  him.  At  Tabora  they  live  quite  luxuriously. 
The  plain  on  which  the  settlement  is  situated  is  exceed- 
ingly fertile,  though  naked  of  trees ;  the  rich  pasturage 
it  furnishes  permits  them  to  keep  large  herds  of  cattle 
and  goats,  from  which  they  have  an  ample  supply  of 
milk,  cream,  butter,  and  ghee.  Eice  is  grown  every- 
where, sweet  potatoes,  yams,  muhogo,  holcus  sorghum, 
maize,  or  Indian  corn,  sesame,  millet,  field  peas,  or 

*  There  is  no  such  recognised  place  as  Kazeh. 


June,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


265 


vetches,  called  choroko,  are  cheap,  and  always  pro- 
curable. Around  their  tembes  the  Arabs  cultivate  a 
little  wheat  for  their  own  purposes,  and  have  planted 
orange,  lemon,  papaw,  and  mangoes,  which  thrive  here 
fairly  well.  Onions  and  garlic,  chilies,  cucumbers, 
tomatoes,  and  binijalls,  may  be  procured  by  the  white 
visitor  from  the  more  important  Arabs,  who  are  un- 
doubted epicureans  in  their  way.  Their  slaves  convey 
to  them  from  the  coast,  once  a  year  at  least,  their  stores 
of  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  spices,  jellies,  curries,  wine,  brandy, 
biscuits,  sardines,  salmon,  and  such  fine  cloths  and 
articles  as  they  require  for  their  own  personal  use. 
Almost  every  Arab  of  any  eminence  is  able  to  show  a 
wealth  of  Persian  carpets,  and  most  luxurious  bedding, 
complete  tea  and  coffee  services,  and  magnificently 
carved  dishes  of  tinned  copper  and  brass  lavers. 
Several  of  them  sport  gold  watches  and  chains,  mostly 
all  a  watch  and  chain  of  some  kind.  And,  as  in  Persia, 
Afghanistan,  and  Turkey,  the  harems  form  an  essential 
feature  of  every  Arab's  household,  the  sensualism  of  the 
Mohammedans  is  as  prominent  here  as  in  the  Orient. 
Each  Arab,  according  to  his  means,  maintains  a  troop  of 
concubines,  for  the  pruriency  of  his  animal  nature  must 
be  gratified  here  as  in  the  "  City  of  Victory. "  The  eye 
that  at  first  despised  the  unclassic  face  of  the  black  woman 
of  Africa  soon  loses  its  regard  for  fine  lines  and  mellow 
pale  color  ;  it  finds  itself  ere  long  lingering  wantonly 
over  the  inharmonious  and  heavy  curves  of  a  negroid 
form,  and  looking  lovingly  on  the  broad,  unintellectual 
face,  and  into  jet  eyes  that  never  flash  with  the  dazzling 
lovelight  that  makes  poor  humanity  beautiful. 

The  Arabs  who  now  stood  before  the  front  door 
of  my  tern  be  were  the  donors  of  the  good  things 
received  the  day  before.    As  in  duty  bound,  of  course, 


266 


1I0W  J  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


I  greeted  Sheikh  Sayd  first,  then  Sheikh  bin  Nasib, 
his  Highness  of  Zanzibar's  consul  at  Karagwa,  then  I 
greeted  the  noblest  Trojan  amongst  the  Arab  popula- 
tion, noblest  in  bearing,  noblest  in  courage  and  manly 
worth — Sheikh  Khamis  bin  Abdullah ;  then  young 
Amram  bin  Mussoud,  who  is  now  making  war  on  the 
king  of  Urori  and  his  fractious  people  ;  then  handsome, 
courageous  Soud,  the  son  of  Sayd  bin  Majid ;  then 
dandified  Thani  bin  Abdullah ;  then  Mussoud  bin 
Abdullah,  and  his  cousin  Abdullah  bin  Mussoud,  who 
own  the  houses  where  formerly  lived  Burton  and 
Speke ;  then  old  Suliman  Dowa,  Sayd  bin  Sayf,  and 
the  old  Hetman  of  Tabora — Sheikh  Sultan  bin  Ali. 

As  the  visit  of  these  magnates,  under  whose  loving 
protection  white  travellers  must  needs  submit  them- 
selves, was  only  a  formal  one,  such  as  Arab  etiquette, 
ever  of  the  stateliest  and  truest,  impelled  them  to,  it 
is  unnecessary  to  relate  the  discourse  on  my  health,  and 
their  wealth,  my  thanks,  and  their  professions  of  loyalty, 
and  attachment  to  me.  After  having  expended  our 
mutual  stock  of  congratulations  and  nonsense,  they 
departed,  having  stated  their  wish  that  I  should  visit 
them  at  Tabora  and  partake  of  a  feast  which  they  were 
about  to  prepare  for  me. 

Three  days  afterwards  I  sallied  out  of  my  tembe,  es- 
corted by  eighteen  bravely  dressed  men  of  my  escort,  to 
pay  Tabora  a  visit.  On  surmounting  the  saddle  over 
which  the  road  from  the  valley  of  Kwihara  leads  to  Ta- 
bora, the  plain  on  which  the  Arab  settlement  is  situated, 
lay  before  us,  one  expanse  of  dun  pasture  land,  stretch- 
ing from  the  base  of  the  hill  on  our  left  as  far  as  the  banks 
of  the  northern  Grombe,  which  a  few  miles  beyond  Tabora 
heave  into  purple-coloured  hills  and  blue  cones. 

Within  three  quarters  of  an  hour  we  were  seated  on 


June,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


267 


the  mud  veranda  of  the  tembe  of  Sultan  bin  AH,  who, 
because  of  his  age,  his  wealth,  and  position — being 
a  colonel  in  Syed  Burghash's  unlovely  army — is  looked 
upon  by  his  countrymen,  high  and  low,  as  referee  and 
counsellor.  His  boma  or  enclosure  contains  quite  a 
village  of  hive-shaped  huts  and  square  tembes.  From 
here,  after  being  presented  with  a  cup  of  Mocha  coffee, 
and  some  sherbet,  we  directed  our  steps  towards 
Khamis  bin  Abdullah's  house,  who  had,  in  anticipation 
of  my  coming,  prepared  a  feast  to  which  he  had  invited 
his  friends  and  neighbours.  The  group  of  stately  Arabs 
in  their  long  white  dresses,  and  jaunty  caps,  also  of 
a  snowy  white,  who  stood  ready  to  welcome  me  to 
Tabora,  produced  quite  an  effect  on  my  mind.  I  was 
in  time  for  a  council  of  war  they  were  holding — and  I 
was  requested  to  attend — Selim,  my  Arab  interpreter, 
forming  one  of  the  number. 

Khamis  bin  Abdullah,  a  bold  and  brave  man,  ever 
ready  to  stand  up  for  the  privileges  of  the  Arabs,  and 
their  rights  to  pass  through  any  countries  for  legitimate 
trade,  is  the  man  who,  in  Speke's  4  Journal  of  the 
Discovery  of  the  Source  of  the  Nile,'  is  reported  to 
have  shot  Maula,  an  old  chief  who  sided  with  Manwa 
Sera  during  the  wars  of  1860;  and  who  subsequently 
after  chasing  his  relentless  enemy  for  five  years  through 
Ugogo  and  Unyamwezi  as  far  as  Ukonongo,  had  the 
satisfaction  of  beheading  him,  was  now  urging  the 
Arabs  to  assert  their  rights  against  a  chief  called 
Mirambo  of  Uyoweh,  in  a  crisis  which  was  advancing. 

This  Mirambo  of  Uyoweh,  it  seems,  had,  for  the  last 
few  years,  been  in  a  state  of  chronic  discontent  with  the 
policies  of  the  neighbouring  chiefs.  Formerly  a  pagazi 
for  an  Arab,  he  had  now  assumed  regal  power,  with  the 
usual  knack  of  unconscionable  rascals  who  care  not  by 


268 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


what  means  they  step  into  power.  When  the  chief  of 
Uyoweh  died,  Mirambo,  who  was  head  of  a  gang 
of  robbers  infesting  the  forests  of  Wilyankuru,  suddenly 
entered  Uyoweh,  and  constituted  himself  lord  para- 
mount by  force.  Some  feats  of  enterprise,  which  he 
performed  to  the  enrichment  of  all  those  who  recognised 
his  authority,  established  him  firmly  in  his  position. 
This  was  but  a  beginning ;  he  carried  war  through  Ugara 
to  Ukonongo,  through  Usagozi  to  the  borders  of  Uvinza, 
and  after  destroying  the  populations  over  three  degrees 
of  latitude,  he  conceived  a  grievance  against  Mkasiwa, 
and  against  the  Arabs,  because  they  would  not  sustain 
him  in  his  ambitious  projects  against  their  ally  and 
friend,  with  whom  they  were  living  in  peace. 

The  first  outrage  which  this  audacious  man  committed 
against  the  Arabs  was  the  halting  of  an  Ujiji-bound 
caravan,  and  the  demand  for  five  kegs  of  gunpowder, 
five  guns,  and  five  bales  of  cloth.  This  extraordinary 
demand,  after  expending  more  than  a  day  in  fierce 
controversy,  was  paid ;  but  the  Arabs,  if  they  were 
surprised  at  the  exorbitant  black-mail  demanded  of 
them,  were  more  than  ever  surprised  when  they  were 
told  to  return  the  way  they  came  ;  and  that  no  Arab 
caravan  should  pass  through  his  country  to  Ujiji  except 
over  his  dead  body. 

On  the  return  of  the  unfortunate  Arabs  to  Unyan- 
yembe,  they  reported  the  facts  to  Sheikh  Sayd  bin 
Salim,  the  governor  of  the  Arab  colony.  This  old 
man  being  averse  to  war,  of  course  tried  every  means 
to  induce  Mirambo  as  of  old  to  be  satisfied  with 
presents,  but  Mirambo  this  time  was  obdurate,  and 
Bternly  determined  on  war  unless  the  Arabs  aided  him 
in  the  warfare  he  was  about  to  wage  against  old 
Mkasiwa,  sultan  of  the  Wanyamwezi  of  Unyanyembe. 


June,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


269 


"  This  is  the  status  of  affairs,"  said  Khamis  bin  Ab- 
dullah. "  Mirambo  says  :  that  for  years  he  has  been 
engaged  in  war  against  the  neighbouring  Washensi 
and  has  come  out  of  it  victorious,  he  says  this  is  a  great 
year  with  him  ;  that  he  is  going  to  fight  the  Arabs,  and 
the  Wanyamwezi  of  Unyanyembe,  and  that  he  shall 
not  stop  until  every  Arab  is  driven  from  Unyanyembe, 
and  he  rules  over  this  country  in  place  of  Mkasiwa. 
Children  of  Oman,  shall  it  be  so  ?  Speak,  Salim,  son 
of  Sayf,  shall  we  go  to  meet  this  Mshensi  (pagan)  or 
shall  we  return  to  our  island  ?" 

A  murmur  of  approbation  followed  the  speech  of 
Khamis  bin  Abdullah,  the  majority  of  those  present 
being  young  men  eager  to  punish  the  audacious 
Mirambo.  Salim,  the  son  of  Sayf,  an  old  patriarch, 
slow  of  speech,  tried  to  appease  the  passions  of  the 
young  men,  scions  of  the  aristocracy  of  Muscat  and 
Muttrah,  and  Bedaweens  of  the  Desert,  but  Khamis's 
bold  words  had  made  too  deep  an  impression  on  their 
minds. 

Soud,  the  handsome  Arab  whom  I  have  noticed 
already  as  the  son  of  Sayd  the  son  of  Majid,  spoke  : 
"  My  father  used  to  tell  me  that  he  remembered  the  days 
when  the  Arabs  could  go  through  the  country  from 
Bagamoyo  to  Ujiji,  and  from  Kilwa  to  Lunda,  and 
from  Usenga  to  Uganda  armed  with  canes.  Those 
days  are  gone  by.  We  have  stood  the  insolence  of  the 
Wagogo  long  enough.  Swaruru  of  Usui  just  takes 
from  us  whatever  he  wants  ;  and  now,  here  is  Mirambo, 
who  says,  after  taking  more  than  five  bales  of  cloth 
as  tribute  from  one  man,  that  no  Arab  caravan  shall 
go  to  Ujiji,  but  over  his  body.  Are  we  prepared  to 
give  up  the  ivory  of  Ujiji,  of  Urundi,  of  Karagwah, 
of  Uganda,  because  of  this  one  man  ?    I  say  war — war 


270 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


until  we  have  got  his  beard  under  our  feet — war  until 
the  whole  of  Uyoweh  and  Wilyankuru  is  destroyed — war 
until  we  can  again  travel  through  any  part  of  the  country 
with  only  our  walking  canes  in  our  hands !" 

The  universal  assent  that  followed  Soud's  speech 
proved  beyond  a  doubt  that  we  were  about  to  have  a 
war.  I  thought  of  Livingstone.  What  if  he  were 
marching  to  Unyanyembe  directly  into  the  war  country  ? 

Having  found  from  the  Arabs  that  they  intended 
to  finish  the  war  quickly  —  at  most  within  fifteen 
days,  as  Uyoweh  was  only  four  marches  distant — I 
volunteered  to  accompany  them,  take  my  loaded  cara- 
van with  me  as  far  as  Mfuto,  and  there  leave  it  in 
charge  of  a  few  guards,  and  with  the  rest  march  on 
with  the  Arab  army.  And  my  hope  was,  that  it  might 
be  possible,  after  the  defeat  of  Mirambo,  and  his  forest 
banditti — the  Ruga-Ruga — to  take  my  Expedition  direct 
to  Ujiji  by  the  road  now  closed.  The  Arabs  were 
sanguine  of  victory,  and  I  partook  of  their  enthusiasm. 

The  council  of  war  broke  up.  A  great  dishful  of 
rice  and  curry,  in  which  almonds,  citron,  raisins,  and 
currants  were  plentifully  mixed,  was  brought  in,  and  it 
was  wonderful  how  soon  we  forgot  our  warlike  fervor 
after  our  attention  had  been  drawn  to  this  royal  dish. 
I,  of  course,  not  being  a  Mohammedan,  had  a  dish  of 
my  own,  of  a  similar  composition,  strengthened  by 
platters  containing  roast  chicken,  and  kabobs,  crullers, 
cakes,  sweetbread,  fruit,  glasses  of  sherbet  and  lemonade, 
dishes  of  gum-drops  and  Muscat  sweetmeats,  dry  raisins, 
prunes,  and  nuts.  Certainly  Khamis  bin  Abdullah 
proved  to  me  that  if  he  had  a  warlike  soul  in  him,  he 
could  also  attend  to  the  cultivated  tastes  acquired 
under  the  shade  of  the  mangoes  on  his  father's  estates  in 
Zanzibar — the  island. 


June,  1871.]  LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE.  '271 

After  gorging  ourselves  on  these  uncommon  dainties, 
some  of  the  chief  Arabs  escorted  me  to  other  tembes 
of  Tabora.  When  we  went  to  visit  Mussoud  bin 
Abdullah,  he  showed  me  the  very  ground  where 
Burton  and  Speke's  house  stood — now  pulled  down 
and  replaced  by  his  office — Sny  bin  Amer's  house  was 
also  torn  clown,  and  the  fashionable  tembe  of  Unyan- 
yembe,  now  in  vogue,  built  over  it, — finely-carved 
rafters — huge  carved  doors,  brass  knockers,  and  lofty 
airy  rooms,  a  house  built  for  defence  and  comfort. 

The  finest  house  in  Unyanyembe  belongs  to  Amrain 
bin  Mussoud,  who  paid  sixty  frasilah  of  ivory — over 
s  3,000 — for  it.  Very  fair  houses  can  be  purchased  for 
from  twenty  to  thirty  frasilah  of  ivory.  Amram's 
house  is  called  the  "Two  Seas" — "  Baherein."  It  is 
one  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  twenty  feet  high,  with 
walls  four  feet  thick,  neatly  plastered  over  with  mud 
mortar.  The  great  door  is  a  marvel  of  carving-work 
for  Unyanyembe  artisans.  Each  rafter  within  is  also 
carved  with  fine  designs.  Before  the  front  of  the  house 
is  a  young  plantation  of  pomegranate  trees,  which 
flourish  here  as  if  they  were  indigenous  to  the  soil.  A 
shadoof,  such  as  may  be  seen  on  the  Nile,  serves  tc 
draw  water  to  irrigate  the  gardens. 

Towards  evening  we  walked  back  to  our  own  finely 
situated  tembe  in  Kwihara,  well  satisfied  with  what  we 
had  seen  at  Tabora.  My  men  drove  a  couple  of  oxen, 
and  carried  three  sacks  of  native  rice — a  most  superior 
kind — the  day's  presents  of  hospitality  from  Khamis  bin 
Abdullah. 

In  Unyanyembe  I  found  the  Livingstone  caravan, 
which  readers  must  remember  I  said  started  off  in  a 
fright  upon  the  mere  rumour  that  Kirk,  the  English 
"  balyuz,"  was  coming.    As  all  the  caravans  were  now 


272 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


halted  at  Unyanyembe  because  of  the  now  approaching 
war,  I  suggested  to  Sayd  bin  Salim,  that  it  were  better 
that  the  men  of  the  Livingstone  caravan  should  live 
with  mine  in  my  tembe,  that  I  might  watch  over  the 
white  man's  goods.  Of  course  since  Dr.  Kirk  had  never 
asked  me  or  authorized  me  to  take  charge  of  Living- 
stone's goods,  I  could  not  interfere  with  the  governor 
or  the  caravan.  Fortunately  Sayd  bin  Salim  agreed 
with  me,  and  the  men  and  goods  were  at  once  brought 
to  my  tembe. 

One  day  Asmani,  who  was  now  chief  of  Livingstone's 
caravan,  the  other  having  died  of  small-pox,  two  or 
three  days  before,  brought  out  a  tent  to  the  veranda 
where  I  was  sitting  writing,  and  shewed  me  a  packel 
of  letters,  which  to  my  surprise  was  marked  : — 

"  To  Dr.  Livingstone, 
"  Ujiji, 

"November  1st,  1870. 

"  Registered  letters." 

Here  was  the  best  evidence  in  the  world  that  the 
letters  were  sealed  up  in  that  packet  on  the  date  men- 
tioned on  the  bag.  From  November  1st,  1870,  to 
February  10th,  1871,  just  one  hundred  days,  at  Baga- 
moyo  !  A  miserable  small  caravan  of  thirty-three  men 
halting  one  hundred  days  at  Bagamoyo,  only  twenty-five 
miles  by  water  from  Zanzibar !  Poor  Livingstone !  Who 
knows  but  he  may  be  suffering  for  want  of  these  very 
supplies  that  have  been  detained  so  long  within  easy 
reach  of  the  British  Consulate,  and  will  be  detained 
here  in  Unyanyembe,  now,  God  knows  how  long 1 
The  caravan  arrived  in  Unyanyembe  sometime  about 
the  middle  of  May.    About  the  latter  part  of  May  the 


JULY,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNTANYEMBE. 


273 


first  disturbances  took  place.  Had  this  caravan  arrived 
here  in  the  middle  of  March,  or  even  the  middle  of 
April,  they  might  have  travelled  on  to  Ujiji  without 
trouble. 

I  asked  Asmani : 

44  When  did  you  see  Dr  Kirk  last  ?" 

"  About  five  or  six  weeks  before  the  Ramadan." 

"  When  did  you  get  this  packet  of  letters  ?" 

"  The  day  before  I  left  Zanzibar  for  Bagamoyo.'' 

"  Did  you  not  see  him  at  Bagamoyo,  when  he  came  to 
shoot  near  the  Kingani  ?  " 

"  No,  we  heard  he  was  coming,  and  we  left.  We 
heard  he  had  been  there.  Two  days  from  Kikoka  we 
stopped  a  week,  to  wait  for  four  men  of  the  escorting 
party  who  had  not  yet  started  from  Bagamoyo. 

On  the  7th  of  July,  about  2  p.m.,  I  was  sitting  on  the 
burzani  as  usual ;  I  felt  listless  and  languid,  and  a  drowsi- 
ness came  over  me  ;  I  did  not  fall  asleep,  but  the  power 
of  my  limbs  seemed  to  fail  me.  Yet  the  brain  was  busy  ; 
all  my  life  seemed  passing  in  review  before  me ;  when 
these  retrospective  scenes  became  serious,  I  looked 
serious  ;  when  they  were  sorrowful,  I  wept  hysterically  ; 
when  they  were  joyous,  I  laughed  loudly.  Reminiscences 
of  yet  a  young  life's  battles  and  hard  struggles  came 
surging  into  the  mind  in  quick  succession  ;  events  of 
boyhood,  of  youth,  and  manhood  ;  perils,  travels,  scenes, 
joys,  and  sorrows  ;  loves  and  hates ;  friendships  and 
indifferences.  My  mind  followed  the  various  and  rapid 
transition  of  my  life's  passages  ;  it  drew  the  lengthy, 
erratic,  sinuous  lines  of  travel  my  footsteps  had  passed 
over.  If  I  had  drawn  them  on  the  sandy  floor,  what 
enigmatical  problems  they  had  been  to  those  around 
me,  and  what  plain,  readable,  intelligent  histories  they 
had  been  to  me  ! 

T 


2T4 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  loveliest  feature  of  all  to  me  was  the  form  of  a 
noble,  and  true  man,  who  called  me  son.  Of  my  life  in 
the  great  pine  forests  of  Arkansas,  and  in  Missouri,  I 
retained  the  most  vivid  impressions.  The  dreaming 
days  I  passed  under  the  sighing  pines  on  the  Ouachita's 
shores ;  the  new  clearing,  the  block-house,  our  faithful 
black  servant,  the  forest  deer,  and  the  exuberant  life  I  led, 
were  all  well  remembered.  And  I  remembered  how 
one  day,  after  we  had  come  to  live  near  the  Mississippi, 
I  floated  down,  down,  hundreds  of  miles,  with  a  wild 
fraternity  of  knurly  giants,  the  boatmen  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  how  a  dear  old  man  welcomed  me  back,  as  if 
from  the  grave.  I  remembered  also  my  travels  on  foot 
through  sunny  Spain,  and  France,  with  numberless 
adventures  in  Asia  Minor,  among  Kurdish  nomads.  I 
remembered  the  battle  fields  of  America  and  the  stormy 
scenes  of  rampant  war.  I  remembered  gold  mines,  and 
broad  prairies,  Indian  councils,  and  much  experience  in 
the  new  western  lands.  I  remembered  the  shock  it 
gave  me  to  hear  after  my  return  from  a  barbarous 
country  of  the  calamity  that  had  overtaken  the  fond 
man  whom  I  called  father,  and  the  hot  fitful  life  that 
followed  it.  Stop  !  ******  Dear  me  ;  is  it  the 
21st  of  July  ?  Yes,  Shaw  informed  me  that  it  was  the 
21st  of  July  after  I  recovered  from  my  terrible  attack  of 
fever  ;  the  true  date  was  the  14th  of  July,  but  I  was 
not  aware  that  I  had  jumped  a  week,  until  I  met 
Dr.  Livingstone.  We  two  together  examined  the 
'  Nautical  Almanack/  which  I  brought  with  me.  We 
found  that  the  Doctor  was  three  weeks  out  of  hi? 
reckoning,  and  to  my  great  surprise  I  was  also  one 
week  out,  or  one  week  ahead  of  the  actual  date.  The 
mistake  was  made  by  my  being  informed  that  I  had 
been  two  weeks  sick,  and  as  the  day  I  recovered  my 


July,  1871.]  LIFE  IN  UNYANTEMBE. 


276 


senses  was  Friday,  and  Shaw  and  the  people  were 
morally  sure  that  I  was  in  bed  two  weeks,  I  dated  it  on 
my  Diary  the  21st  of  July.  That  Shaw  had  lost  his 
reckoning  also  can  easily  be  accounted  for,  for  the 
fever  was  rapidly  destroying  his  memory,  and  indeed 
his  reason.  Selim  had  attended  me,  according  to 
directions  plainly  written,  which  he  had  been  ordered 
to  follow  in  case  of  such  a  crisis.  I  had  diligently 
taught  him,  until  he  knew  every  medicine  in  the  chest, 
and  its  uses.  He  told  me  he  had  fed  me  with  tea  and 
a  little  brandy  in  it ;  Shaw  had  three  or  four  times  fed 
me  with  sago  gruel.  However,  on  the  tenth  day  after 
the  first  of  my  illness,  I  was  in  excellent  trim  again, 
only,  however,  to  see  and  attend  to  Shaw,  who  was  in 
turn  taken  sick.  By  the  22nd  July  Shaw  was  re- 
covered, then  Selim  was  prostrated,  and  groaned  in 
his  delirium  for  four  days,  but  by  the  28th  we  were  all 
recovered,  and  were  beginning  to  brighten  up  at  the 
prospect  of  a  diversion  in  the  shape  of  a  march  upon 
Mirambo's  stronghold. 

The  morning  of  the  29th  I  had  fifty  men  loaded  with 
bales,  beads,  and  wire,  for  Ujiji.  When  they  were 
mustered  for  the  march  outside  the  tembe,  the  only 
man  absent  was  Bombay.  While  men  were  sent  to 
search  for  him,  others  departed  to  get  one  more  look, 
and  one  more  embrace  with  their  black  Delilahs.  Bom- 
bay was  found  sometime  about  2  p.m., his  face  faithfully 
depicting  the  contending  passions  under  which  he  was 
labouring — sorrow  at  parting  from  the  fleshpots  of 
Unyanyembe — regret  at  parting  from  his  Dulcinea  of 
Tabora — to  be  bereft  of  all  enjoyment  now,  nothing 
but  marches — hard,  long  marches — to  go  to  the  war — 
to  be  killed,  perhaps.  Oh  !  Inspired  by  such  feelings; 
no  wonder  Bombay  was  inclined  to  be  pugnacious 

T  2 


276 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


when  I  oidered  him  to  his  place,  and  I  was  in  a 
shocking  bad  temper  for  having  been  kept  waiting 
from  8  a.m.  to  2  p.m.  for  him.  There  was  simply  a 
word  and  a  savage  look,  and  my  cane  was  flying 
around  Bombay's  shoulders,  as  if  he  were  to  be  anni- 
hilated. I  fancy  that  the  eager  fury  of  my  onslaught 
broke  his  stubbornness  more  than  anything  else ;  for 
before  I  had  struck  him  a  dozen  times  he  was  crying 
for  "  pardon."  At  that  word  I  ceased  belaboring  him, 
for  this  was  the  first  time  he  had  ever  uttered  that  word. 
Bombay  was  conquered  at  last. 

"  March !"  and  the  guide  led  off,  followed  in  solemn 
order  by  forty-nine  of  his  fellows,  every  man  carrying  a 
heavy  load  of  African  monies,  besides  his  gun,  hatchet, 
and  stock  of  ammunition,  and  his  ugali-pot.  We  pre- 
sented quite  an  imposing  sight  while  thus  marching  on 
in  silence  and  order,  with  our  flags  flying,  and  the  red 
blanket  robes  of  the  men  streaming  behind  them  as  the 
furious  north-easter  blew  right  on  our  flank. 

The  men  seemed  to  feel  they  were  worth  seeing,  for 
I  noticed  that  several  assumed  a  more  martial  tread  as 
they  felt  their  royal  Joho  cloth  tugging  at  their  necks,  as 
it  was  swept  streaming  behind  by  the  wind.  Maganga, 
a  tall  Mnyamwezi,  stalked  along  like  a  very  Goliah 
about  to  give  battle  alone,  to  Mirambo  and  his  thousand 
warriors.  Frisky  Khamisi  paced  on  under  his  load, 
imitating  a  lion ;  and  there  was  the  rude  jester — the 
incorrigible  Ulimengo — with  a  stealthy  pace  like  a  cat. 
But  their  silence  could  not  last  long.  Their  vanity  was 
so  much  gratified,  the  red  cloaks  danced  so  incessantly 
before  their  eyes,  that  it  would  have  been  a  wonder  if 
they  could  have  maintained  such  serious  gravity  or  dis- 
content one  half  hour  longer. 

Ulimengo  was  the  first  who  broke  it.    He  had  con- 


July,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UN  YANYEMBE. 


277 


stituted  himself  the  kirangozi  or  guide,  and  was  the 
standard-bearer,  bearing  the  American  flag,  which  the 
men  thought  would  certainly  strike  terror  into  the  hearts 
of  the  enemy.  Growing  confident  first,  then  valorous, 
then  exultant,  he  suddenly  faced  the  army  he  was 
leading,  and  shouted 


-Hoy 
Chorus. — Hoy 
Hoy 

Chorus. — Hoy 
Hoy 

Chorus. — Hoy 


Hoy! 
Hoy! 
Hoy! 
Hoy! 
Hoy! 
Hoy! 


Where  are  ye  going  ? 
Chorus. — Going  to  war. 

Against  whom  ? 
Chorus. — Against  Mirambo. 

Who  is  your  master  ? 
Chorus. — The  White  Man. 

Ough  !    Ough ! 
Chorus. — Ough  !    Ough ! 

Hyah  !    Hyah ! 
Chorus.— Hyah  !    Hyah  !" 

This  was  the  ridiculous  song  they  kept  up  all  day 
without  intermission. 

We  camped  the  first  day  at  Bomboma's  village, 
situated  a  mile  to  the  south-west  of  the  natural  hill 
fortress  of  Zimbili.  Bombay  was  quite  recovered 
from  his  thrashing,  and  had  banished  the  sullen  thoughts 
that  had  aroused  my  ire,  and  the  men  having  behaved 
themselves  so  well,  a  five-gallon  pot  of  pombe  was 
brought  to  further  nourish  the  valour,  which  they  one 
and  all  thought  they  possessed. 

The  second  day  we  arrived  at  Masangi.    I  was 


278 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


visited  soon  afterwards  by  Soud,  the  son  of  Sayd 
bin  Majid,  who  told  me  the  Arabs  were  waiting  for 
me ;  that  they  would  not  march  from  Mfuto  until  I  had 
arrived. 

Eastern  Mfuto,  after  a  six  hours'  march,  was  reached 
on  the  third  day  from  Unyanyembe.  Shaw  gave  in, 
laid  down  in  the  road,  and  declared  he  was  dying. 
This  news  was  brought  to  me  about  4  p.m.  by  one  of 
the  last  stragglers.  I  was  bound  to  desjoatch  men  to 
carry  him  to  me,  into  my  camp,  though  every  man 
was  well  tired  after  the  long  march.  A  reward  stimu- 
lated half-a-dozen  to  venture  into  the  forest  just  at 
dusk  to  find  Shaw,  who  was  supposed  to  be  at  least 
three  hours  away  from  camp. 

About  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  my  men  returned, 
having  carried  Shaw  on  their  backs  the  entire  distance. 
I  was  roused  up,  and  had  him  conveyed  to  my  tent.  I 
examined  him,  and  I  assured  myself  he  was  not  suffering 
from  fever  of  any  kind ;  and  in  reply  to  my  inquiries 
as  to  how  he  felt,  he  said  he  could  neither  walk  nor 
ride,  that  he  felt  such  extreme  weakness  and  lassitude 
that  he  was  incapable  of  moving  further.  After  ad- 
ministering a  glass  of  port  wine  to  him  in  a  bowlful  of 
sago  gruel,  we  both  fell  asleep. 

We  arrived  early  the  following  morning  at  Mfuto,  the 
rendezvous  of  the  Arab  army.  A  halt  was  ordered  the 
next  day,  in  order  to  make  ourselves  strong  by  eating 
the  beeves,  which  we  freely  slaughtered. 

The  personnel  of  our  army  was  as  follows  : — 

Sheikh  Sayd  bin  Salim  25  half  castes 

„     Khamis  bin  Abdullah   250  slaves 

„     Thani  bin  Abdullah  80  „ 

„  Mussoud  bin  Abdullah  ....  75  „ 
„  Abdullah  bin  Mussoud  ....  80  „ 
„     Ali  bin  Sayd  bin  Nasib    ....  250  „ 


August,  1871.]  LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE.  279 


Sheikh  Nasur  bin  Mussoud  . 

50  slaves 

„     Hamed  Kimiani  .... 

.     .  70 

n 

„     Sheikh  Hamdam  .... 

.     ,  30 

r> 

„     Sayd  bin  Habib  .... 

.    .  50 

>» 

„     Salim  bin  Sayf  

.    .  100 

it 

„  Sunguru   

.    .  25 

» 

„  Sarboko  

.     .  25 

5> 

„     Soud  bin  Sayd  bin  Majid 

.     .  50 

JJ 

„     Mohammed  bin  Mussoud  . 

.     .  30 

>J 

„     Sayd  bin  Hamed  .... 

.     .  90 

„     The  '  Herald '  Expedition 

.    50  soldiers 

„     Mkasiwa's  Wanyamwezi  . 

.     .  800 

» 

„     Half-castes  and  Wangwana  . 

.    .  125 

5J 

Independent  chiefs  and  their  followers  300  „ 


These  made  a  total  of  2,255,  according  to  numbers 
given  me  by  Thani  bin  Abdullah,  and  corroborated  by 
a  Baluch  in  the  pay  of  Sheikh  bin  Nasib.  Of  these 
men  1 ,500  were  armed  with  guns — flint-lock  muskets, 
German  and  French  double  barrels,  some  English 
En  fields,  and  American  Springfields  —  besides  these 
muskets,  they  were  mostly  armed  with  spears  and  long 
knives  for  the  purpose  of  decapitating,  and  inflicting 
vengeful  gashes  in  the  dead  bodies.  Powder  and  ball 
were  plentiful :  some  men  were  served  a  hundred  rounds 
each,  my  people  received  each  man  sixty  rounds. 

As  we  filed  out  of  the  stronghold  of  Mfuto,  with 
waving  banners  denoting  the  various  commanders,  with 
booming  horns,  and  the  roar  of  fifty  bass  drums,  called 
gomas — with  blessings  showered  on  us  by  the  mollahs, 
and  happiest  predications  from  the  soothsayers,  astro- 
logers, and  the  diviners  of  the  Koran — who  could  have 
foretold  that  this  grand  force,  before  a  week  passed 
over  its  head,  would  be  hurrying  into  that  same  strong- 
hold of  Mfuto,  with  each  man's  heart  in  his  mouth 
from  fear  ? 

The  date   of  our  leaving  Mfuto  for  battle  witt 


280 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Miiambo  was  the  3rd  of  August.  All  my  goods  weie 
stored  in  Mfuto,  ready  for  the  march  to  Ujiji,  should 
we  be  victorious  over  the  African  chief,  but  at  least  for 
safety,  whatever  befel  us. 

Long  before  we  reached  Umanda,  I  was  in  my  ham 
mock  in  the  paroxysms  of  a  fierce  attack  of  intermittent 
fever,  which  did  not  leave  me  until  late  that  night. 

At  Umanda,  six  hours  from  Mfuto,  our  warriors 
bedaubed  themselves  with  the  medicine  which  the 
wise  men  had  manufactured  for  them— a  compound  of 
matama  flour  mixed  with  the  juices  of  a  herb  whose 
virtues  were  only  known  to  the  Waganga  of  the  Wan- 
yamwezi. 

At  6  a.m.  on  the  4th  of  August  we  were  once  more 
prepared  for  the  road,  but  before  we  were  marched  out 
of  the  village,  the  "  manneno,"  or  speech,  was  delivered 
by  the  orator  of  the  Wanyamwezi  : 

u  Words  l  words  !  words  !  Listen,  sons  of  Mkasiwa, 
children  of  Unyamwezi !  the  journey  is  before  you,  the 
thieves  of  the  forest  are  waiting  ;  yes,  they  are  thieves, 
they  cut  up  your  caravans,  they  steal  your  ivory,  they 
murder  your  women.  Behold  the  Arabs  are  with  you, 
El  Wali  of  the  Arab  sultan,  and  the  white  man  are 
with  you.  Go,  the  son  of  Mkasiwa  is  with  you  ;  fight, 
kill,  take  slaves,  take  cloth,  take  cattle,  kill,  eat,  and 
fill  yourselves  !    Go  !" 

A  loud,  wild  shout  followed  this  bold  harangue,  the 
gates  of  the  village  were  thrown  open,  and  blue,  red, 
and  white-robed  soldiers  were  bounding  upward  like  so 
many  gymnasts,  firing  their  guns  incessantly,  in  order 
to  encourage  themselves  with,  noise,  or  to  strike  terror 
into  the  hearts  of  those  who  awaited  us  within  the 
strong  enclosure  of  Zimbizo,  Sultan  Kolongo's  place. 

As  Zimbizo  was  distant  only  five  hours  from  Umanda, 


August,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


281 


at  11  a.m.  we  came  in  view  of  it.  We  halted  on  the 
verge  of  the  cultivated  area  around  it  and  its  neign- 
bours,  within  the  shadow  of  the  forest.  Strict  orders 
had  been  given  by  the  several  chiefs  to  their  respective 
commands  not  to  fire,  until  they  were  within  shooting 
distance  of  the  boma. 

Khamis  bin  Abdullah  crept  through  the  forest  to  the 
west  of  the  village.  The  Wanyamwezi  took  their 
position  before  the  main  gateway,  aided  by  the  forces 
of  Soud  the  son  of  Sayd  on  the  right,  and  the  son  of 
Habib  on  the  left,  Abdullah,  Mussoud,  myself,  and 
others  made  ready  to  attack  the  eastern  gates,  which 
arrangement  effectually  shut  them  in,  with  the  exception 
of  the  northern  side. 

Suddenly,  a  volley  opened  on  us,  as  we  emerged  from 
the  forest  along  the  Unyanyembe  road,  in  the  direction 
they  had  been  anticipating  the  sight  of  an  enemy,  and 
immediately  the  attacking  forces  began  their  firing  in 
most  splendid  style.  There  were  some  ludicrous  scenes 
)f  men  pretending  to  fire,  then  jumping  off  to  one  side, 
then  forward,  then  backward,  with  the  agility  of  hop- 
ping frogs,  but  the  battle  was  none  the  less  in  earnest. 
The  breech-loaders  of  my  men  swallowed  my  metallic 
cartridges  much  faster  than  I  liked  to  see ;  but  happily 
there  was  a  lull  in  the  firing,  and  we  were  rushing  into 
the  village  from  the  west,  the  south,  the  north,  througn 
the  gates  and  over  the  tall  palings  that  surrounded  the 
village,  like  so  many  Merry  Andrews ;  and  the  poor 
villagers  were  flying  from  the  enclosure  towards  the 
mountains,  through  the  northern  gate,  pursued  by  the 
fleetest  runners  of  our  force,  and  pelted  in  the  back  by 
bullets  from  breech-loaders  and  shot-guns. 

The  village  was  stiongly  defended,  and  not  more 
than  twenty  dead  bodies  were  found  in  it,  the  strong 


282 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE 


thick  wooden  paling  having  afforded  excellent  protec- 
tion against  our  bullets. 

From  Zimbizo,  after  having  left  a  sufficient  force 
within,  we  sallied  out,  and  in  an  hour  had  cleared  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  enemy,  having  captured  two 
other  villages,  which  we  committed  to  the  flames,  after 
gutting  them  of  all  valuables.  A  few  tusks  of  ivory, 
and  about  fifty  slaves,  besides  an  abundance  of  grain, 
composed  the  "  loot,"  which  fell  to  the  lot  of  the 
Arabs. 

On  the  5th.  a  detachment  of  Arabs  and  slaves,  seven 
hundred  strong,  scoured  the  surrounding  country,  and 
carried  fire  and  devastation  up  to  the  boma  of  Wilyan- 
kuru. 

On  the  6th,  Soud  bin  Sayd  and  about  twenty  other 
young  Arabs  led  a  force  of  five  hundred  men  against 
Wilyankur1  itself,  where  it  was  supposed  Mirambo 
was  living.  Another  party  went  out  towards  the  low 
wooded  hills,  a  short  distance  north  of  Zimbizo,  near 
which  place  they  surprised  a  youthful  forest  thief  asleep, 
whose  head  they  stretched  backwards,  and  cut  it  off  as 
though  lie  were  a  goat  or  a  sheep.  Another  party 
sallied  out  southward,  and  defeated  a  party  of  Mirambo's 
"  bush-whackers,"  news  of  which  came  to  our  ears  at 
noon. 

In  the  morning  I  had  gone  to  Sayd  bin  Salim's 
tembe,  to  represent  to  him.  how  necessary  it  was  to 
burn  the  long  grass  in  the  forest  of  Zimbizo,  lest  it 
might  hide  any  of  the  enemy ;  but  soon  afterwards  I 
had  been  struck  down  with  another  attack  of  inter- 
mittent fever,  and  was  obliged  to  turn  in  and  cover 
myself  with  blankets  to  produce  perspiration,  but  not, 
however,  till  I  had  ordered  Shaw  and  Bombay  not 
to  permit  any  of  my  men  to  leave  the  camp.    But  J 


August,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


282 


was  told  soon  afterwards  by  Selim  that  more  than 
one  half  had  gone  to  the  attack  on  Wilyankuru,  with 
Soud  bin  Sayd. 

About  6  p.m.  the  entire  camp  of  Zimbizo  was  elec- 
trified with  the  news  that  all  the  Arabs  who  had 
accompanied  Soud  bin  Sayd  had  been  killed ;  and  that 
more  than  one-half  of  his  party  had  been  slain.  Some 
of  my  own  men  returned,  and  from  them  I  learned 
that  Uledi,  Grant's  former  valet,  Mabruki  Khatalabu 
(Killer  of  his  father),  Mabruki  (the  Little),  Baruti 
of  Useguhha,  and  Ferahan  had  been  killed.  I  learned 
also  that  they  had  succeeded  in  capturing  Wilyankuru 
in  a  very  short  time,  that  Mirambo  and  his  son  were 
there,  that  as  they  succeeded  in  effecting  an  entrance, 
Mirambo  had  collected  his  men,  and  after  leaving  the 
village,  had  formed  an  ambush  in  the  grass,  on  each 
side  of  the  road,  between  Wilyankuru  and  Zimbizo, 
and  that  as  the  attacking  party  were  returning  home 
laden  with  over  a  hundred  tusks  of  ivory,  and  sixty 
bales  of  cloth,  and  two  or  three  hundred  slaves,  Mir- 
ambo's  men  suddenly  rose  up  on  each  side  of  them, 
and  stabbed  them  with  their  spears.  The  brave  Soud 
had  fired  his  double-barreled  gun  and  shot  two  men, 
and  was  in  the  act  of  loading  again  when  a  spear  was 
launched,  which  penetrated  through  and  through  him  : 
all  the  other  Arabs  shared  the  same  fate.  This  sudden 
attack  from  an  enemy  they  believed  to  be  conquered,  so 
demoralized  the  party  that,  dropping  their  spoil,  each 
man  took  to  his  heels,  and  after  making  a  wide  detour 
through  the  woods,  returned  to  Zimbizo  to  repeat  the 
dolorous  tale. 

The  effect  of  this  defeat  is  indescribable.  It  was 
impossible  to  sleep,  from  the  shrieks  of  the  women 
whose  husbands  had  fallen.    All  night  they  howled 


284 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


their  lamentations,  and  sometimes  might  be  heard  the 
groans  of  the  wounded  who  had  contrived  to  crawl 
through  the  grass  un perceived  by  the  enemy.  Fugi- 
tives were  continually  coming  in  throughout  the  night, 
but  none  of  my  men  who  were  reported  to  be  dead, 
were  ever  heard  of  again. 

The  7th  was  a  day  of  distrust,  sorrow,  and  retreat ; 
the  Arabs  accused  one  another  for  urging  war  without 
expending  all  peaceful  means  first.  There  were  stormy 
councils  of  war  held,  wherein  were  some  who  proposed 
to  return  at  once  to  Unyanyembe,  and  keep  within  their 
own  houses ;  and  Khamis  bin  Abdullah  raved,  like  an 
insulted  monarch,  against  the  abject  cowardice  of  his 
compatriots.  These  stormy  meetings  and  propositions 
to  retreat  were  soon  known  throughout  the  camp,  and 
assisted  more  than  anything  else  to  demoralize  com- 
pletely the  combined  forces  of  Wanyamwezi  and 
slaves.  I  sent  Bombay  to  Sayd  bin  Salim  to  advise 
him  not  to  think  of  retreat,  as  it  would  only  be  inviting 
Mirambo  to  carry  the  war  to  Unyanyembe. 

After  despatching  Bombay  with  this  message,  I  fell 
asleep,  but  about  1.30  p.m.  I  was  awakened  by  Selim 
saying,  "  Master,  get  up,  they  are  all  running  away, 
and  Khamis  bin  Abdullah  is  himself  going." 

With  the  aid  of  Selim  I  dressed  myself,  and  stag- 
gered towards  the  door.  My  first  view  was  of  Thani 
bin  Abdullah  being  dragged  away,  who,  when  he 
caught  sight  of  me,  shouted  out  "  Ban  a  —  quick  — 
Mirambo  is  coming. "  He  was  then  turning  to  run,  and 
putting  on  his  jacket,  with  his  eyes  almost  starting  out 
of  their  sockets  with  terror.  Khamis  bin  Abdullah 
was  also  about  departing,  he  being  the  last  Arab  to 
leave.  Two  of  my  men  were  following  him ;  these 
Selim  was  ordered  to  force  back  with  a  revolver. 


A. u gust,  1871.]  LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


2&6 


Shaw  was  saddling  his  donkey  with  my  own  saddle,  pre- 
paratory to  giving  me  the  slip,  and  leaving  me  in  the 
lurch  to  the  tender  mercies  of  Mirambo.  There  were 
only  Bombay,  Mabruki  Speke,  Chanda  who  was  coolly 
eating  his  dinner,  Mabruk  Unyanyembe,  Mtamani, 
Juma,  and  Sarmian  —  only  seven  out  of  fifty.  All 
the  others  had  deserted  and  were  by  this  time  far  away, 
except  Uledi  (Manwa  Sera)  and  Zaidi,  whom  Selim 
brought  back  at  the  point  of  a  loaded  revolver.  Selim 
was  then  told  to  saddle  my  donkey,  and  Bombay  to 
assist  Shaw  to  saddle  his  own.  In  a  few  moments  we 
were  on  the  road,  the  men  ever  looking  back  for  the 
coming  enemy ;  they  belabored  the  donkeys  to  some 
purpose,  for  they  went  at  a  hard  trot,  which  caused  me 
intense  pain.  I  would  gladly  have  lain  down  to  die, 
but  life  was  sweet,  and  I  had  not  yet  given  up  all  hope 
of  being  able  to  preserve  it  to  the  full  and  final  accom- 
plishment of  my  mission.  My  mind  was  actively  at 
work  planning  and  contriving  during  the  long  lonely 
hours  of  night,  which  we  employed  to  reach  Mfuto, 
whither  I  found  the  Arabs  had  retreated.  In  the  night 
Shaw  tumbled  off  his  donkey,  and  would  not  rise, 
though  implored  to  do  so.  As  I  did  not  despair  myself, 
so  I  did  not  intend  that  Shaw  should  despair.  He  was 
lifted  on  his  animal,  and  a  man  was  placed  on  each  side 
of  him  to  assist  him  ;  thus  we  rode  through  the  dark- 
ness. At  midnight  we  reached  Mfuto  safely,  and  were 
at  once  admitted  into  the  village,  from  which  we  had 
issued  so  valiantly,  but  to  which  we  were  now  returned 
so  ignominiously. 

I  found  all  my  men  had  arrived  here  before  dark. 
Ulimengo,  the  bold  guide  who  had  exulted  in  his 
weapons  and  in  our  numbers,  and  was  so  sanguine  ot 
victory,  had  performed  the  eleven  hours'  march  in 


286 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


six  hours;  sturdy  Chowpereh,  whom  I  regarded  ae 
the  faithfulest  of  my  people,  had  arrived  only  half  an 
hour  later  than  Ulimengo;  and  frisky  Khamisi,  the 
dandy — the  orator — the  rampant  demagogue — yes — he 
had  come  third ;  and  Speke's  "Faithfuls"  had  proved 
as  cowardly  as  any  poor  "  nigger  "  of  them  all.  Only 
Selim — the  Arab  boy  from  Jerusalem,  had  proved  brave 
and  faithful.  Shaw,  though  an  European  born,  proved 
he  possessed  a  soul  as  base  and  mean  as,  if  not 
meaner  than,  that  of  the  negroes. 

I  asked  Selim,  "  Why  did  you  not  also  run  away,  and 
leave  your  master  to  die  ?" 

"  Oh,  sir,"  said  the  Arab  boy,  naively,  "  I  was  afraid 
you  would  whip  me." 


GROUP  OF  WANYAMWEZI. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

life  ix  uxyaxyembe — {continued). 

It  never  occurred  to  the  Arab  magnates  that  I  had 
cause  of  complaint  against  them  ;  it  never  occurred  to 
them  that  I  had  a  right  to  feel  aggrieved  at  their  conduct, 
for  the  base  desertion  of  an  ally,  who  had,  as  a  duty  to 
friendship,  taken  up  arms  for  their  sake.  Their 
"  salaams "  the  next  morning  after  the  retreat,  were 
given  as  if  nothing  had  transpired  to  mar  the  good 
feeling  that  had  existed  between  us. 

They  were  hardly  seated,  however,  before  I  began 
to  inform  them  that  as  the  war  was  only  between  them 
and  Mirambo,  and  that  as  I  was  afraid,  if  they  were 
accustomed  to  run  away  after  every  little  check,  that  the 


288 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


war  might  last  a  much  longer  time  than  I  could  afford 
to  lose ;  and  that  as  they  had  deserted  their  wounded 
on  the  field,  and  left  their  sick  friends  to  take  care  of 
themselves,  they  must  not  consider  me  in  the  light  of 
an  ally  any  more.  44  I  am  satisfied,"  said  I,  "  having 
seen  your  mode  of  fighting,  that  the  war  will  not  be 
ended  in  so  short  a  time  as  you  think  it  will.  It  took 
you  five  years,  I  hear,  to  conquer  and  kill  Manwa  Sera, 
you  will  certainly  not  conquer  Mirambo  in  less  than  a 
year.  I  am  a  white  man,  accustomed  to  wars  after  a 
different  style,  I  know  something  about  fighting,  but 
I  never  saw  people  run  away  from  an  encampment 
like  ours  at  Zimbizo,  for  such  slight  cause  as  you  had. 
By  running  away,  you  have  invited  Mirambo  to  follow 
you  to  Unyanyembe ;  you  may  be  sure  he  will  come." 

The  Arabs  protested  one  after  another  that  they  had 
not  intended  to  have  left  me,  but  the  Wanyamwezi  of 
Mkasiwa  had  shouted  out  that  the  41  Musungu "  was 
gone,  and  the  cry  had  caused  a  panic  among  their 
people,  which  it  was  impossible  to  allay. 

Later  that  day  the  Arabs  continued  their  retreat  to 
Tabora,  which  is  twenty-two  miles  distant  from  Mfuto. 
I  determined  to  proceed  more  leisurely,  and  on  the 
csecond  day  after  the  flight  from  Zimbizo,  my  Expedition, 
with  all  the  stores  and  baggage,  marched  back  to 
Masangi,  and  on  the  third  day  to  Kwihara. 

The  following  extracts  from  the  Diary  I  kept  will 
serve  to  show  better  than  anything  else,  my  feelings 
and  thoughts  about  this  time,  after  our  disgraceful 
retreat : 

Kwihara.  Friday,  llth  August,  1871. — Arrived  to- 
day from  Zimbili,  village  of  Bomboma's.  I  am  quite 
disappointed  and  almost  disheartened.  But  I  have  one 
consolation,  I  have  done  my  duty  by  the  Arabs,  a  duty 


August,  1871.]  LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


289 


I  thought  I  owed  to  the  kindness  they  received  me 
with ;  now,  however,  the  duty  is  discharged,  and  I 
am  free  to  pursue  my  own  course.  I  feel  happy,  for 
some  reasons,  that  the  duty  has  been  paid  at  such  a 
slight  sacrifice.  Of  course  if  I  had  lost  my  life  in 
this  enterprise,  I  should  have  been  justly  punished. 
But  apart  from  my  duty  to  the  consideration  with 
which  the  Arabs  had  received  me,  was  the  necessity  of 
trying  every  method  of  reaching  Livingstone.  This 
road  which  the  war  with  Mirambo  has  closed,  is  only 
a  month's  inarch  from  this  place,  and  if  the  road  could 
be  opened  with  my  aid,  sooner  than  without  it,  why 
should  I  refuse  my  aid  ?  The  attempt  has  been  made 
for  the  second  time  to  Ujiji — both  have  failed.  I  am 
going  to  try  another  route ;  to  attempt  to  go  by  the 
north  would  be  folly.  Mirambo's  mother  and  people,  and 
the  Wasui,  are  between  ine  and  Ujiji,  without  including 
the  Watuta,  who  are  his  allies,  and  robbers.  The 
southern  route  seems  to  be  the  most  practicable  one. 
Very  few  people  know  anything  of  the  country  south ; 
those  whom  I  have  questioned  concerning  it  speak  of 
"want  of  water"  and  robber  Wazavira,  as  serious 
obstacles  ;  they  also  say  that  the  settlements  are  few  and 
far  between. 

But  before  I  can  venture  to  try  this  new  route,  I 
have  to  employ  a  new  set  of  men,  as  those  whom  I 
took  to  Mfuto  consider  their  engagements  at  an  end, 
and  the  fact  of  five  of  their  number  being  killed  rather 
damps  their  ardor  for  travelling.  It  is  useless  to  hope 
that  Wanyamwezi  can  be  engaged,  because  it  is  against 
their  custom  to  go  with  caravans,  as  carriers,  during 
war  time.  My  position  is  most  serious.  I  have 
a  good  excuse  for  returning  to  the  coast,  but  my 
conscience  will  not  permit  me  to  do  so,  after  so  much 

U 


290  BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 

money  has  been  expended,  and  so  much  confidence  has 
been  placed  in  me.  In  fact,  I  feel  I  must  die  sooner 
than  return. 

Saturday,  August  \2th. — My  men,  as  I  supposed  they 
would,  have  gone ;  they  said  that  I  engaged  them  to 
go  to  Ujiji  by  Mirambo's  road.  I  have  only  thirteen 
left.  With  this  small  body  of  men,  whither  can  I  go  ? 
I  have  over  one  hundred  loads  in  the  storeroom. 
Livingstone's  caravan  is  also  here ;  his  goods  consist  of 
seventeen  bales  of  cloth,  twelve  boxes,  and  six  bags  of 
beads.  His  men  are  luxuriating  upon  the  best  the 
country  affords. 

If  Livingstone  is  at  Ujiji,  he  is  now  locked  up  with 
small  means  of  escape.  I  may  consider  myself  also 
locked  up  at  Unyanyembe,  and  I  suppose  cannot  go  to 
Ujiji  until  this  war  with  Mirambo  is  settled.  Living- 
stone cannot  get  his  goods,  for  they  are  here  with  mine. 
He  cannot  return  to  Zanzibar,  and  the  road  to  the  Nile 
is  blocked  up.  He  might,  if  he  has  men  and  stores, 
possibly  reach  Baker  by  travelling  northwards,  through 
Urundi  thence  through  Ruanda,  Karagwah,  Uganda, 
Unyoro,  and  Ubari  to  Gondokoro.  Pagazis  he  cannot 
obtain,  for  the  sources  whence  a  supply  might  be 
obtained,  are  closed.  It  is  an  erroneous  supposition  to 
think  that  Livingstone,  any  more  than  any  other 
energetic  man  of  his  calibre,  can  travel  through  Africa 
without  some  sort  of  an  escort,  and  a  durable  supply  of 
marketable  cloth  and  beads. 

I  was  told  to-day  by  a  man  that  when  Livingstone 
was  coming  from  Nyassa  Lake  towards  the  Tanganika 
(the  very  time  that  people  thought  him  murdered)  he 
was  met  by  Sayd  bin  Omar's  caravan,  which  was  bound 
for  Ulamba.  He  was  travelling  with  Mohammed  bin 
Gharib.    This  Arab,  who  was  coming  from  Urungu, 


August,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMUE. 


291 


met  Livingstone  at  Chi-cumbi's,  or  Kwa-chi-kumbi's, 
country,  and  travelled  with  him  afterwards,  I  hear,  to 
Manyuema  or  Manyema.  Manyuema  is  forty  marches 
from  the  north  of  Nyassa.  Livingstone  was  walking ; 
he  was  dressed  in  American  sheeting.  He  had  lost  all 
his  cloth  in  Lake  Liemba  while  crossing  it  in  a  boat. 
He  had  three  canoes  with  him  ;  in  one  he  put  his  cloth, 
another  he  loaded  with  his  boxes  and  some  of  his  men, 
into  the  third  he  went  himself  with  two  servants  and 
two  fishermen.  The  boat  with  his  cloth  was  upset. 
On  leaving  Nyassa,  Livingstone  went  to  Ubissa,  thence 
to  Uemba,  thence  to  Urungu.  Livingstone  wore  a  cap. 
He  had  a  breech-loading  double-barreled  rifle  with  him, 
which  fired  fulminating  balls.  He  was  also  armed  with 
two  revolvers.  The  Wahiyow  with  Livingstone  told 
this  man  that  their  master  had  many  men  with  him  at 
first,  but  that  several  had  deserted  him. 

August  13th. — A  caravan  came  in  to-day  from  the 
sea-coast.  They  reported  that  William  L.  Farquhar, 
whom  I  left  sick  at  Mpwapwa,  Usagara,  and  his  cook, 
were  dead.  Farquhar,  I  was  told,  died  a  few  days 
after  I  had  entered  Ugogo,  his  cook  died  a  few  weeks 
later.  My  first  impulse  was  for  revenge.  I  believed 
that  Leukole  had  played  me  false,  and  had  poisoned 
him,  or  that  he  had  been  murdered  in  some  other 
manner  ;  but  a  personal  interview  with  the  Msawahili 
who  brought  the  news  informing  me  that  Farquhar 
had  succumbed  to  his  dreadful  illness  has  done  away 
with  that  suspicion.  So  far  as  I  could  understand  him, 
Farquhar  had  in  the  morning  declared  himself  well 
enough  to  proceed,  but  in  attempting  to  rise,  had  fallen 
backward  and  died.  I  was  also  told  that  the  Wasagara, 
possessing  some  superstitious  notions  respecting  the  dead, 
had  ordered  Jako  to  take  the  body  out  for  burial,  that 


292 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Jako,  not  being  able  to  carry  it,  had  dragged  the  body 
to  the  jungle,  and  there  left  it  naked  without  the 
slightest  covering  of  earth,  or  anything  else. 

u  There  is  one  of  us  gone,  Shaw,  my  boy  !  Who  will 
be  the  next  ?"  I  remarked  that  night  to  my  companion. 

August  lAth. — Wrote  some  letters  to  Zanzibar. 
Shaw  was  taken  very  ill  last  night,  whether  of  fever  or 
what,  I  do  not  know.  I  do  not  think  it  is  the  fever. 
I  suspect  it  is  a  fierce  attack  of  a  venereal  affection. 
I  have  no  medicines  for  this  disease.  So  I  have  sent 
three  soldiers  to  Zanzibar  for  them,  having  bribed  them 
to  haste,  with  a  promise  of  $50  each. 

August  l$th.  Saturday. — My  soldiers  are  employed 
stringing  beads.  Shaw  is  still  a-bed.  We  hear  that 
Mirarnbo  is  coming  to  Unyanyembe.  A  detachment 
of  Arabs  and  their  slaves  have  started  this  morning  to 
jDossess  themselves  of  the  powder  left  there  by  the 
redoubtable  Sheikh  Sayd  bin  Salim,  the  commander-in- 
chief  of  the  Arab  settlements. 

August  21st.  Monday. — Shaw  still  sick.  One 
hundred  fundo  of  beads  have  been  strung.  The  Arabs 
are  preparing  for  another  sally  against  Mirarnbo.  The 
advance  of  Mirarnbo  upon  Unyanyembe  was  denied  by 
Sayd  bin  Salim,  this  morning. 

August  22nd. — We  were  stringing  beads  this  morning 
when,  about  10  a.m.,  we  heard  a  continued  firing  from 
the  direction  of  Tabora.  Rushing  out  from  our  work 
to  the  front  door  facing  Tabora,  we  heard  considerable 
volleying,  and  scattered  firing,  plainly ;  and  ascending 
to  the  top  of  my  tembe,  I  saw  with  my  glasses  the 
smoke  of  the  guns.  Some  of  my  men  who  were  sent 
on  to  ascertain  the  cause  came  running  back  with  the 
information  that  Mirarnbo  had  attacked  Tabora  with 
over  two  thousand  men,  and  that  a  force  of  over  one 


August,  1871.]  LIFE  IN  U N  YA  N  YEN  BE. 


293 


thousand  Watuta,  who  had  allied  themselves  with  him 
for  the  sake  of  plunder,  had  come  suddenly  upon 
Tabora,  attacking  from  opposite  directions. 

Later  in  the  day,  or  about  noon,  watching  the  low 
saddle  over  which  we  could  see  Tabora,  we  saw  it 
crowded  with  fugitives  from  that  settlement,  who  were 
rushing  to  our  settlement  at  Kwihara  for  protection. 
From  these  people  we  heard  the  sad  information  that 
the  noble  Khamis  bin  Abdullah,  his  little  protege, 
Khamis,  Mohammed  bin  Abdullah,  Ibrahim  bin  Rashid, 
and  Sayf,  the  son  of  Ali,  the  son  of  Sheikh,  the  son  of 
Nasib,  had  been  slain. 

When  I  inquired  into  the  details  of  the  attack,  and 
the  manner  of  the  death  of  these  Arabs,  I  was  told 
that  after  the  first  firing  which  warned  the  inhabitants 
of  Tabora  that  the  enemy  was  upon  them,  Khamis  bin 
Abdullah  and  some  of  the  principal  Arabs  who 
happened  to  be  with  him,  had  ascended  to  the  roof  of 
his  tembe,  and  with  his  spyglass  he  had  looked  towards 
the  direction  of  the  firing.  To  his  great  astonishment 
he  saw  the  plain  around  Tabora  filled  with  approaching 
savages,  and  about  two  miles  off,  near  Kazima,  a  tent 
pitched  which  he  knew  to  belong  to  Mirambo,  from  its 
having  been  presented  to  that  chief  by  the  Arabs  of 
:'abora  when  they  were  on  good  terms  with  him. 

Khamis  bin  Abdullah  descended  to  his  house  saying, 
"  Let  us  go  to  meet  him.  Arm  yourselves,  my  friends, 
and  come  with  me/'  His  friends  advised  him  strongly 
not  to  go  out  of  his  tembe ;  for  so  long  as  each  Arab 
kept  to  his  tembe  they  were  more  than  a  match  for 
the  Ruga-Ruga  and  the  Watuta  together.  But  Khamis 
broke  out  impatiently  with,  "  Would  you  advise  us 
to  stop  in  our  tembes,  for  fear  of  this  Mshensi  (pagan)  ? 
Who  goes  with  me  ?"    His  little  protege,  Khamis,  son 


294 


HO  W  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


of  a  dead  friend,  asked  to  be  allowed  to  be  his  gun- 
bearer  ;  Mohammed  bin  Abdullah.  Ibrahim  bin  Rashid, 
and  Sayf,  the  son  of  Ali,  young  Arabs  of  good  families, 
who  were  proud  to  live  with  the  noble  Khamis,  also 
offered  to  go  with  him.  After  hastily  arming  eighty 
of  his  slaves,  contrary  to  the  advice  of  his  prudent 
friends,  he  sallied  out,  and  was  soon  face  to  face  with 
his  cunning  and  determined  enemy  Mirambo.  This 
chief,  upon  seeing  the  Arabs  advance  towards  him, 
gave  orders  to  retreat  slowly.  Khamis,  deceived  by 
this,  rushed  on  with  his  friends  after  them.  Suddenly 
Mirambo  ordered  his  men  to  advance  upon  them  in  a 
body,  and  at  the  sight  of  the  precipitate  rush  upon  their 
party,  Khamis's  slaves  incontinently  took  to  their  heels, 
never  even  deigning  to  cast  a  glance  behind  them, 
leaving  their  master  to  the  fate  which  was  now  over- 
taking him.  The  savages  surrounded  the  five  Arabs, 
and  though  several  of  them  fell  before  the  Arabs'  fire, 
continued  to  shoot  at  the  little  party,  until  Khamis  bin 
Abdullah  received  a  bullet  in  the  leg,  which  brought 
him  to  his  knees,  and,  for  the  first  time,  to  the  knowledge 
that  his  slaves  had  deserted  him.  Though  wounded,  the 
brave  man  continued  shooting,  but  he  soon  afterwards 
received  a  bullet  through  the  heart.  Little  Khamis,  upon 
seeing  his  adopted  father's  fall,  exclaimed  !  4 'My  father 
Khamis  is  dead,  I  will  die  with  him,"  and  continued 
fighting  until  he  received,  shortly  after,  his  death  wound. 
In  a  few  minutes  there  was  not  one  Arab  left  alive. 

Late  at  night  some  more  particulars  arrived  of  this 
tragic  scene.  I  was  told  by  people  who  saw  the  bodies, 
that  the  body  of  Khamis  bin  Abdullah,  who  was 
a  fine,  noble,  brave,  portly  man,  was  found  with 
the  skin  of  his  forehead,  the  beard  and  skin  of  the  lower 
part  of  his  face,  the  fore  part  of  the  nose,  the  fat  over 


August,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


295 


the  stomach  and  abdomen,  the  genital  organs,  and, 
lastly,  a  bit  from  each  heel,  cut  off,  by  the  savage 
allies  of  Mirambo.  And  in  the  same  condition  were 
found  the  bodies  of  his  adopted  son  and  fallen  friends. 
The  flesh  and  skin  thus  taken  from  the  bodies  was 
taken,  of  course,  by  the  waganga  or  medicine  men,  to 
make  what  the}'  deem  to  be  the  most  powerful  potion 
of  all  to  enable  men  to  be  strong  against  their  enemies. 
This  potion  is  mixed  up  with  their  ugali  and  rice,  and 
is  taken  in  this  manner  with  the  most  perfect  confidence 
in  its  efficacy,  as  an  invulnerable  protection  against 
bullets  and  missiles  of  all  descriptions. 

It  was  a  most  sorry  scene  to  witness  from  our  excited 
settlement  at  Kwihara,  almost  the  whole  of  Tabora  in 
flames,  and  to  see  the  hundreds  of  people  crowding  into 
Kwihara. 

Perceiving  that  my  people  were  willing  to  stand  by 
me,  I  made  preparations  for  defence  by  boring  loop- 
holes for  muskets  into  the  stout  clay  walls  of  my 
tembe.  They  w^ere  made  so  quickly,  and  seemed  so 
admirably  adapted  for  the  efficient  defence  of  the  tembe, 
that  my  men  got  quite  brave,  and  Wangwana  refugees 
with  guns  in  their  hands,  driven  out  of  Tabora,  asked 
to  be  admitted  into  our  tembe  to  assist  in  its  defence. 
Livingstone's  men  were  also  collected,  and  invited  to 
help  defend  their  master's  goods  against  Mirambo's 
supposed  attack.  By  night  I  had  one  hundred  and  fifty 
armed  men  in  my  courtyard,  stationed  at  every  possible 
point  where  an  attack  might  be  expected.  To-morrow 
Mirambo  has  threatened  that  he  will  come  to  Kwihara. 
I  hope  to  God  he  will  come,  and  if  he  comes  within 
range  of  an  American  rifle,  I  shall  see  what  virtue  lies 
in  American  lead. 

August  23rd. — We  have  passed  a  very  anxious  day  in 


296 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE, 


the  valley  of  Kwihara.  Our  eyes  were  constantly  directed 
towards  unfortunate  Tabora.  It  has  been  said  that 
three  tembes  only  have  stood  the  brunt  of  the  attack. 
Abid  bin  Suliman's  house  has  been  destroyed,  and  over 
two  hundred  tusks  of  ivory  that  belonged  to  him  have 
become  the  property  of  the  African  Bonaparte.  My 
tembe  is  in  as  efficient  a  state  of  defence  as  its  style  and 
means  of  defence  will  allow.  Rifle-pits  surround  the 
house  outside,  and  all  native  huts  that  obstructed  the 
view  have  been  torn  down,  and  all  trees  and  shrubs 
which  might  serve  as  a  shelter  for  any  one  of  the 
enemy  have  been  cut.  Provisions  and  water  enough 
for  six  days  have  been  brought.  I  have  ammunition 
enough  to  last  two  weeks,  and,  without  boasting,  I 
do  not  think  that  10,000  Africans  could  take  it,  though 
a  body  of  400  or  500  Europeans  might  easily  do  it, 
unassisted  by  cannon ;  with  cannon  50  Europeans 
could  easily  take  the  place.  The  walls  are  three  feet 
thick,  and  there  are  apartments  within  apartments,  so 
that  a  desperate  body  of  men  could  fight  until  the  last 
room  had  been  taken. 

The  Arabs,  my  neighbours,  endeavour  to  seem  brave, 
but  it  is  evident  they  are  about  despairing;  I  have 
heard  it  rumoured  that  the  Arabs  of  Kwihara,  if  Tabora 
is  taken,  will  start  en  masse  for  the  coast,  and  give  the 
country  up  to  Mirambo.  If  such  are  their  intentions, 
and  they  are  really  carried  into  effect,  I  shall  be  in  a 
pretty  mess.  However,  if  they  do  leave  me,  Mirambo  will 
not  reap  any  benefit  from  my  stores,  nor  from  Living- 
stone's either,  for  I  shall  burn  the  whole  house,  and 
everything  in  it ;  that's  my  idea.  But  what  in  the 
name  of  everything  will  become  of  Shaw  ?  In  such  a 
crisis  nobody  would  carry  him. 

August  24:th. — The  American  flag  is  still  waving 


August,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


297 


above  my  house,  and  the  Arabs  are  still  in  Unyan- 
yembe. 

About  10  a.m.,  a  messenger  came  from  Tabora, 
asking  us  if  we  were  not  going  to  assist  them  against 
Mirambo.  I  felt  very  much  like  going  out  to  help 
them ;  but  after  debating  long  upon  the  pros  and  cons 
of  it, — asking  myself,  Was  it  prudent?  Ought  I  to 
go  ?  What  will  become  of  the  people  if  I  were  killed  ? 
Will  they  not  desert  me  again  ?  What  was  the 
fate  of  Khamis  bin  Abdullah  ? — I  sent  word  that  I 
would  not  go ;  that  they  ought  to  feel  perfectly  at 
home  in  their  tembes  against  such  a  force  as  Mirambo 
had,  that  I  should  be  very  glad  if  they  could  induce 
him  to  come  to  Kwihara,  in  which  case  I  would  try  and 
pick  him  off. 

They  say  that  Mirambo,  and  his  principal  officer, 
carry  umbrellas  over  their  heads,  that  he  himself  has 
long  hair  like  a  Mnyamwezi  pagazi,  and  a  beard.  If 
he  comes,  all  the  men  carrying  umbrellas  will  have 
bullets  rained  on  them  in  the  hope  that  one  lucky  bullet 
may  hit  him.  According  to  popular  ideas,  I  should 
make  a  silver  bullet,  but  I  have  no  silver  with  me.  I 
might  make  a  gold  one. 

About  noon  I  went  over  to  see  Sheikh  bin  Nasib, 
leaving  about  100  men  inside  the  house  to  guard  it 
while  I  was  absent.  This  old  fellow  is  quite  a  philo- 
sopher in  his  way.  I  should  call  him  a  professor  of 
minor  philosophy.  He  is  generally  so  sententious — 
fond  of  aphorisms,  and  a  very  deliberate  character.  I 
was  astonished  to  find  him  so  despairing.  His  aphorisms 
have  deserted  him,  his  philosophy  has  not  been  able  to 
stand  against  disaster.  He  listened  to  me,  more  like  a 
man  moribund,  than  one  possessing  all  the  means  of 
defence  and  offence. 


29S 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


I  loaded  his  two-pounder  with  ball,  and  grape,  and 
small  slugs  of  iron,  and  advised  him  not  to  fire  it  until 
Mirambo's  people  were  at  his  gates. 

About  4  p.m.  I  heard  that  Mirambo  had  deported 
himself  to  Kazima,  a  place  north-west  of  Tabora  a 
couple  of  miles. 

August  2tith. — The  Arabs  sallied  out  this  morning 
to  attack  Kazima,  but  refrained,  because  Mirambo 
asked  for  a  day's  grace,  to  eat  the  beef  he  had  stolen 
from  them.  He  has  asked  them  impudently  to  come 
to-morrow  morning,  at  which  time  he  says  he  will  give 
them  a  bellyful  of  fighting. 

Kwihara  is  once  more  restored  to  a  peaceful  aspect, 
and  fugitives  no  longer  throng  its  narrow  limits  in  fear 
and  despair. 

August  21th. — Mirambo  retreated  during  the  night; 
and  when  the  Arabs  went  in  force  to  attack  his  village 
of  Kazima,  they  found  it  vacant. 

The  Arabs  hold  councils  of  war  now-a-days — battle 
meetings,  of  which  they  seem  to  be  very  fond,  but 
extremely  slow  to  act  upon.  They  were  about  to  make 
friends  with  the  northern  Watuta,  but  Mirambo  was 
ahead  of  them.  They  had  talked  of  invading  Mirambo's 
territory  the  second  time,  but  Mirambo  invaded  Un- 
yanyembe  with  fire  and  sword,  bringing  death  to  many 
a  household,  and  he  has  slain  the  noblest  of  them  all. 

The  Arabs  spend  their  hours  in  talking  and  arguing, 
while  the  Ujiji  and  Karagwali  roads  are  more  firmly 
closed  than  ever.  Indeed,  many  of  the  influential 
Arabs  are  talking  of  returning  to  Zanzibar  ;  saying, 
"  Unyanyembe  is  ruined."  I  have  lost  all  my  respect 
for  them. 

Meanwhile,  with  poor  success,  however,  perceiving 
the  impossibility  of  procuring  Wanyamwezi  pagazis, 


August,  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


£99 


I  am  hiring  the  Wangwana  renegades  living  m 
Unyanyembe  to  proceed  with  me  to  Ujiji,  at  treble 
prices.  Each  man  is  offered  30  doti,  ordinary  hire  of 
a  carrier  being  only  from  5  to  10  doti  to  Ujiji.  I  want 
fifty  men.  I  intend  to  leave  about  sixty  or  seventy 
loads  here  under  charge  of  a  guard.  I  shall  leave  all 
personal  baggage  behind,  except  one  small  port- 
manteau. 

August  28th. — No  news  to-day  of  Mirambo.  Shaw 
is  getting  strong  again. 

Sheikh  bin  Nasib  called  on  me  to-day,  but,  except 
on  minor  philosophy,  he  had  nothing  to  say. 

I  have  determined,  after  a  study  of  the  country, 
to  lead  a  flying  caravan  to  Ujiji,  by  a  southern  road 
through  northern  Ukonongo  and  Ukawendi.  Sheikh 
bin  Nasib  has  been  informed  to-night  of  this  deter- 
mination. 

August  2§th. — Shaw  got  up  to-day  for  a  little  work. 
Alas  !  all  my  fine-spun  plans  of  proceeding  by  boat  over 
the  Victoria  N'Yanza,  thence  down  the  Nile,  have  been 
totally  demolished,  I  fear,  through  this  war  with 
Mirambo — this  black  Bonaparte.  Two  months  have 
been  wasted  here  already.  The  Arabs  take  such  a  long 
time  to  come  to  a  conclusion.  Advice  is  plentiful,  and 
words  are  as  numerous  as  the  blades  of  grass  in  our 
valley ;  all  that  is  wanting  is  decision.  The  Arabs' 
hope  and  stay  is  dead — Khamis  bin  Abdullah  is  no 
more.  Where  are  the  other  warriors  of  whom  the 
Wangwana  and  Wanyamwezi  bards  sing  ?  Where  is 
mighty  Kisesa—  great  Abdullah  bin  Nasib  ?  Where 
is  Sayd,  the  son  of  Majid  ?  Kisesa  is  in  Zanzibar, 
and  Sayd,  the  son  of  Majid,  is  in  Ujiji,  as  yet  ignorant 
that  his  son  has  fallen  in  the  forest  of  Wilyankuru. 

Shaw   is   improving  fast.    I   am   unsuccessful  as 


300 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


yet  in  procuring  soldiers.  I  almost  despair  of  ever 
being  able  to  move  from  here.  It  is  such  a  drowsy, 
sleepy,  slow,  dreaming  country.  Arabs,  Wangwana, 
Wanyamwezi,  are  all  alike — all  careless  how  time 
flies.  Their  to-morrow  means  sometimes  within  a 
month.    To  me  it  is  simply  maddening. 

August  30th. — Shaw  will  not  work.  I  cannot  get 
him  to  stir  himself.  I  have  petted  him,  and  coaxed 
him  ;  I  have  even  cooked  little  luxuries  for  him  myself. 
And,  while  I  am  straining  every  nerve  to  get  ready 
for  Ujiji,  Shaw  is  satisfied  with  looking  on  listlessly. 
What  a  change  from  the  ready-handed  bold  man  he 
was  at  Zanzibar  ! 

I  sat  down  by  his  side  to-day  with  my  palm  and 
needle,  in  order  to  encourage  him,  and  to-day,  for  the 
first  time,  I  told  him  of  the  real  nature  of  my  mission. 
I  told  him  that  I  did  not  care  about  the  geography 
of  the  country  half  as  much  as  I  cared  about  finding 
Livingstone  !  I  told  him,  for  the  first  time,  "  Now,  my 
dear  Shaw,  you  think  probably  that  I  have  been  sent 
here  to  find  the  depth  of  the  Tanganika.  Not  a  bit  of 
it,  man  ;  I  was  told  to  find  Livingstone.  It  is  to  find 
Livingstone  I  am  here.  It  is  to  find  Livingstone  I  am 
going.  Don't  you  see,  old  fellow,  the  importance  of 
the  mission,  don't  you  see  what  reward  you  will  get 
from  Mr.  Bennett,  if  you  will  help  me.  I  am  sure,  if 
ever  you  come  to  New  York,  you  will  never  be  in  want 
of  a  fifty-dollar  bill.  So  shake  yourself;  jump  about; 
look  lively.  Say  you  will  not  die ;  that  is  half  the 
battle.  Snap  your  fingers  at  the  fever.  I  will 
guarantee  the  fever  won't  kill  you.  I  have  medicine 
enough  for  a  regiment  here  ! " 

Bah !    Bah !    I  was  talking  to  a  lifeless  mummy. 
His  eyes  lit  up  a  little,  but  the  light  that  shone  in  them  t 


Sept.  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


301 


shortly  faded,  and  died.  I  was  quite  disheartened.  I 
made  some  strong  punch,  to  put  fire  in  his  veins,  that  I 
might  see  life  in  him.  I  put  sugar,  and  eggs,  and 
seasoned  it  with  lemon  and  spice.  "  Drink,  Shaw," 
said  I,  "  and  forget  your  miserable  infirmities.  Don't 
breathe  in  my  face,  man,  as  if  you  were  about  to  die. 
Leave  off  this  pantomime.  You  are  not  sick,  dear 
fellow ;  it  is  only  ennui  you  are  feeling.  Look  at  Selim 
there.  Now,  I  will  bet  any  amount,  that  he  will  not 
die ;  that  I  will  carry  him  home  safe  to  his  friends  at 
Jerusalem  !  I  will  carry  you  home  also,  if  you  will 
let  me !" 

Piff-puff  at  his  nasty  pipe.  Hear  him  breathe  !  You 
would  think  he  was  dying ;  but  he  is  not  even  sick. 
He  told  me,  only  the  other  day,  that  he  knew  every 
trick  of  old  sea-salts,  when  they  wished  to  shirk  duty  at 
sea.  I  am  sure  he  is  practising  a  trick  on  me.  This 
intermittent  fever !  I  know  every  stage  of  it ;  and  I  feel 
convinced  he  has  not  got  it. 

Of  one  thing  I  feel  sure,  that  if  I  took  a  stick  I 
could  take  the  nonsense  out  of  him. 

September  1st. — According  to  Thani  bin  Abdullah 
whom  I  visited  to-day,  at  his  tembe  in  Maroro,  Mirambo 
lost  two  hundred  men  in  the  attack  upon  Tabora, 
while  the  Arabs'  losses  were,  five  Arabs,  thirteen  free- 
men and  eight  slaves,  besides  three  tembes,  and  over 
one  hundred  small  huts  burned,  two  hundred  and 
eighty  ivory  tusks,  and  sixty  cows  and  bullocks 
captured. 

September  3rd. — Eeceived  a  packet  of  letters  and 
newspapers  from  Capt.  Webb,  at  Zanzibar.  What  a 
good  thing  it  is  that  one's  friends,  even  in  far  America, 
think  of  the  absent  one  in  Africa  !  They  tell  me,  that 
no  one  dreams  of  my  being  in  Africa  yet ! 


302 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE, 


I  applied  to  Sheikh  bin  Nasib  to-day  to  permit 
Livingstone's  caravan  to  go  under  my  charge  to  Ujiji, 
but  he  would  not  listen  to  it.  He  says  he  feels  certain 
I  am  going  to  my  death. 

September  4th. — Shaw  is  quite  well  to-day,  he  says. 
Selim  is  down  with  the  fever.  My  force  is  gradually 
increasing,  though  some  of  my  old  soldiers  are  falling 
off.  Umgareza  is  blind  ;  Baruti  has  the  small-pox  very 
badly  ;  Bilali  has  a  strange  disease,  an  ulcer  or  some- 
thing, rear-ward ;  Sadala  has  the  Mukunguru  (the 
intermittent). 

September  bth. — Baruti  died  this  morning.  He  was 
one  of  my  best  soldiers ;  and  was  one  of  those  men 
who  accompanied  Speke  to  Egypt.  Baruti  is  number 
seven  of  those  wTho  have  died  since  leaving  Zanzibar. 

To-day  my  ears  have  been  poisoned  with  the  reports 
of  the  Arabs,  about  the  state  of  the  country  I  am  about 
to  travel  through.  "  The  roads  are  bad ;  they  are  all 
stopped  ;  the  Buga-Ruga  are  out  in  the  forests ;  the 
Wakonongo  are  coming  from  the  south  to  help 
Mirambo ;  the  Washensi  are  at  war,  one  tribe  against 
another."  My  men  are  getting  dispirited,  they  have 
imbibed  the  fears  of  the  Arabs  and  the  Wanyamwezi. 
Bombay  begins  to  feel  that  I  had  better  go  back  to  the 
coast,  and  try  again  some  other  time. 

We  buried  Baruti  under  the  shade  of  the  banyan- 
tree,  a  few  yards  west  of  my  tembe.  The  grave  was  made 
four  and  a  half  feet  deep  and  three  feet  wide.  At  the 
bottom  on  one  side  a  narrow  trench  was  excavated,  into 
which  the  body  was  rolled  on  his  side,  with  his  face 
turned  towards  Mecca.  The  body  was  dressed  in  a  doti 
and  a  half  of  new  American  sheeting.  After  it  was 
placed  properly  in  its  narrow  bed,  a  sloping  roof  of 
sticks,  covered  over  with  matting  and  old  canvas,  was 


Sept.  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


30$ 


made,  to  prevent  the  earth  from  falling  over  the  body. 
The  grave  was  then  filled,  the  soldiers  laughing  merrily. 
On  the  top  of  the  grave  was  planted  a  small  shrub,  and 
into  a  small  hole  made  with  the  hand,  was  poured  water 
lest  he  might  feel  thirsty — they  said — on  his  way  to 
Paradise  ;  water  was  then  sprinkled  all  over  the  grave, 
and  the  gourd  broken.  This  ceremony  being  ended, 
the  men  recited  the  Arabic  Fat-hah,  after  which  they 
left  the  grave  of  their  dead  comrade  to  think  no  more 
of  him. 

September  1th. — An  Arab  named  Mohammed  pre- 
sented me  to-day  with  a  little  boy  slave,  called  "Ndugu 
M'hali  "  (my  brother's  wealth).  As  I  did  not  like  the 
name,  I  called  the  chiefs  of  my  caravan  together,  and 
asked  them  to  give  him  a  better  name.  One  suggested 
"  Simba  "  (a  lion),  another  said  he  thought  "  Ngombe  " 
(a  cow)  would  suit  the  boy-child,  another  thought  he 
ought  to  be  called  "  Mirambo,"  wThich  raised  a  loud 
laugh.  Bombay  thought  "  Bombay  Mdogo  "  would  suit 
my  black-skinned  infant  very  well.  Ulimengo,  however 
after  looking  at  his  quick  eyes,  and  noting  his  celerity 
of  movement,  pronounced  the  name  Ka-lu-lu  as  the 
best  for  him,  "because,"  said  he,  "just  look  at  his  eyes, 
so  bright !  look  at  his  form,  so  slim  !  watch  his  move- 
ments, how  quick  !  Yes,  Kalulu  is  his  name."  "  Yes, 
bana,"  said  the  others,  "  let  it  be  Kalulu." 

"  Kalulu  "  is  a  Kisawahili  term  for  the  young  of  the 
blue-buck  (perpusilla)  antelope. 

"  Well,  then,"  said  I,  water  being  brought  in  a  huge 
tin  pan,  Selim,  who  was  willing  to  stand  godfather 
holding  him  over  the  water,  "  let  his  name  henceforth  be 
Kalulu,  and  let  no  man  take  it  from  him,"  and  thus  it 
was  that  the  little  black  boy  of  Mohammed's  came  to  be 
called  Kalulu. 


304 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  Expedition  is  increasing  in  numbers ;  it  is  now 
composed  of  : 

2  white  men. 
1  Arab  boy. 
1  Hindi. 
29  Wangwana. 
1  boy  from  Londa  (Cazembes). 
1  boy  from  Uganda. 
1  boy  from  Liemba,  or  Uwemba. 

We  had  quite  an  alarm  before  dark.  Much  firing 
was  heard  at  Tabora,  which  led  us  to  anticipate  an 
attack  on  Kwihara.  It  turned  out,  however,  to  be  a 
salute  fired  in  honor  of  the  arrival  of  Sultan  Kitambi 
to  pay  a  visit  to  Mkasiwa,  Sultan  of  Unyanyembe. 

September  8th. — Towards  night  Sheikh  bin  Nasib 
received  a  letter  from  an  Arab  at  Mfuto,  reporting  that 
an  attack  was  made  on  that  place  by  Mirambo  and  his 
Watuta  allies.  It  also  warned  him  to  bid  the  people 
of  Kwihara  hold  themselves  in  readiness,  because  if 
Mirambo  succeeded  in  storming  Mfuto,  he  would  march 
direct  on  Kwihara. 

September  2  th. — Mirambo  was  defeated  with  severe 
loss  yesterday,  in  his  attack  upon  Mfuto.  He  was 
successful  in  an  assault  he  made  upon  a  small  Wanyam- 
wezi  village,  but  when  he  attempted  to  storm  Mfuto,  he 
was  repulsed  with  severe  loss,  losing  three  of  his 
principal  men.  Upon  withdrawing  his  forces  from  the 
attack,  the  inhabitants  sallied  out,  and  followed  him  to 
the  forest  of  Umanda,  where  he  was  again  utterly 
routed,  himself  ingloriously  flying  from  the  field. 

The  heads  of  his  chief  men  slain  in  the  attack  were 
brought  to  Kwikuru,  the  boma  of  Mkasiwa. 

September  11th. — Shaw  is  a  sentimental  driveller, 


Sept.  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYANYEMBE. 


305 


with  a  large  share  of  the  principles  of  Joseph  Surface 
within  his  nature.  He  is  able  at  times  to  kindle 
into  an  eloquent  rant  about  the  vices  of  mankind, 
particularly  those  of  rich  people.  His  philippics  on  this 
topic  deserved  a  better  audience  than  I  furnished  him. 

He  has  a  habit  of  being  self-absorbed — is  an  oddity 
quite  the  reverse  of  Jack  Bunsby.  Instead  of  looking 
towards  the  horizon,  he  regards  the  ground  at  his  feet 
with  a  look  which  seems  to  say,  there  is  something 
wrong  somewhere,  and  I  am  trying  to  find  out  where 
it  can  be,  and  how  to  rectify  it. 

He  told  me  to-day  his  father  had  been  a  captain  in 
Her  Majesty's  navy,  that  he  had  been  present  at  four 
levees  of  Queen  Victoria.  This  can  hardly  be,  however, 
as  I  cannot  imagine  a  naval  captain's  son  being  so 
ignorant  of  penmanship  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  write 
his  own  name,  nor  can  I  see  how  it  is  possible  that  he 
could  have  been  presented  to  the  Queen,  for  I  have 
always  understood  that  the  Court  of  St.  James's  is  the 
most  aristocratic  in  Europe. 

He  is  very  angry,  though,  with  me,  because  I  laugh 
at  him,  and  has  just  opened  a  sentimental  battery  on 
me  which  makes  me  almost  cry  out  with  vexation  that 
I  encumbered  myself  with  such  a  fool. 

September  14=th. — The  Arab  boy  Selim  is  delirious 
from  constant  fevers.  Shaw  is  sick  again,  or  pretends 
to  be.  These  two  occupy  most  of  my  time.  I  am  turned 
into  a  regular  nurse,  for  1  have  no  one  to  assist  me  in 
attending  upon  them.  If  I  try  to  instruct  Abdul  Kader 
in  the  art  of  being  useful,  his  head  is  so  befogged  with 
the  villainous  fumes  of  Unyamwezi  tobacco,  that  he 
wanders  bewildered  about,  breaking  dishes,  and  up- 
setting cooked  dainties,  until  I  get  so  exasperated  that 
my  peace  of  mind  is  broken  completely  for  a  full  hour. 


306 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVING  STONK 


If  1  ask  Ferajji,  my  now  formally  constituted  cook,  to 
assist,  his  thick  wooden  head  fails  to  receive  an  idea,  and 
I  am  thus  obliged  to  play  the  part  of  chef  de  cuisine. 

September  15th. — The  third  month  of  my  residence 
in  Unyanyembe  is  almost  finished,  and  I  am  still  here, 
but  I  hope  to  be  gone  before  the  23rd  inst. 

All  last  night,  until  nine  a.m.  this  morning,  my 
soldiers  danced  and  sang  to  the  manes  of  their  dead 
comrades,  whose  bones  now  bleach  in  the  forests  of 
Wilyankuru.  Two  or  three  huge  pots  of  pombe  failed 
to  satisfy  the  raging  thirst  which  the  vigorous  exercise 
they  were  engaged  in,  created.  So,  early  this  morning, 
[  was  called  upon  to  contribute  a  shukka  for  another 
potful  of  the  potent  liquor. 

To-day  I  was  busy  selecting  the  loads  for  each 
soldier  and  pagazi.  In  order  to  lighten  their  labor  as 
much  as  possible,  I  reduced  each  load  from  70  lbs.  to 
50  lbs.,  by  which  I  hope  to  be  enabled  to  make  some 
long  marches.  I  have  been  able  to  engage  ten  pagazis 
during  the  last  two  or  three  days. 

I  have  two  or  three  men  still  very  sick,  and  it  is 
almost  useless  to  expect  that  they  will  be  able  to  carry 
anything,  but  I  am  in  hopes  that  other  men  may  be 
engaged  to  take  their  places  before  the  actual  day  of 
departure,  which  now  seems  to  be  drawing  near 
rapidly. 

September  16th. — We  have  almost  finished  our  work — 
t)n  the  fifth  day  from  this — God  willing — we  shall  march. 
I  engaged  two  more  pagazis  besides  two  guides,  named 
Asmani  and  Mabruki.  If  vastness  of  the  human  form 
could  terrify  any  one,  certainly  Asmani's  appearance  is 
well  calculated  to  produce  that  effect.  He  stands  con- 
siderably over  six  feet  without  shoes,  and  has  shoulders 
broad  enough  for  two  ordinary  men. 


Sept.  1871.] 


life  in  unyanyembe. 


307 


To-morrow  I  mean  to  give  the  people  a  farewell  feast, 
to  celebrate  our  departure  from  this  forbidding  and 
unhappy  country. 

September  17th. — The  banquet  is  ended.  I  slaugh- 
tered two  bullocks,  and  had  a  barbacue ;  three  sheep, 
two  goats,  and  fifteen  chickens,  120  lbs.  of  rice,  twenty 
large  loaves  of  bread  made  of  Indian  corn-flour,  one  hun- 
dred eggs,  10 lbs.  of  butter,  and  five  gallons  of  sweet- 
milk,  were  the  contents  of  which  the  banquet  was 
formed.  The  men  invited  their  friends  and  neighbours, 
and  about  one  hundred  women  and  children  par- 
took of  it. 

After  the  banquet  was  ended,  the  pombe,  or  native 
beer,  was  brought  in  in  five  gallon  pots,  and  the  people 
commenced  their  dance,  which  continues  even  now  as  I 
write. 

September  l$th. — I  had  a  slight  attack  of  fever  to-day, 
which  has  postponed  our  departure.  Selim  and  Shaw 
are  both  recovered.  Selim  tells  me  that  Shaw  has  said 
thai  I  would  die  like  a  donkey  ;  and  that  he  said  he  would 
take  charge  of  my  journals,  and  trunks,  and  proceed  to 
the  coast  immediately,  if  I  die.  This  afternoon,  he  is 
stated  to  have  said  that  he  does  not  intend  to  go  to 
Ujiji,  but  that  when  I  am  gone,  he  will  stock  the  yard 
full  of  chickens,  in  order  to  be  able  to  get  fresh  eggs 
every  day,  and  that  he  will  buy  a  cow,  from  which 
he  will  be  able  to  procure  fresh  milk  daily. 

At  night  Shaw  came  to  me  while  the  fever  was  at  its 
height,  to  ask  me  to  whom  I  would  like  to  have  him 
write,  in  case  I  should  die,  because,  said  he,  even  the 
strongest  of  us  may  die.  I  told  him  to  go  and  mind  his 
own  business,  and  not  be  croaking  near  me. 

About  8  p.m.  Sheik  bin  Nasib  came  to  me  imploring 
me  not  to  go  away  to-morrow,  because  I  was  so  sick, 


308 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Thani  Sakhburi  suggested  to  ine  that  I  might  stay 
another  month  ;  in  answer,  I  told  them  that  white  men 
are  not  accustomed  to  break  their  words.  I  had  said 
I  would  go,  and  I  intended  to  go. 

Sheikh  bin  Nasib  gave  up  all  hope  of  inducing  me 
to  remain  another  day,  and  he  has  gone  away,  with  a 
promise  to  write  to  Syed  Burghash  to  tell  him  how 
obstinate  I  am,  and  that  I  am  determined  to  be  killed. 
This  was  a  parting  shot. 

About  10  p.m.  the  fever  had  gone.  All  were  asleep 
in  the  tembe  but  myself,  and  an  unutterable  lone- 
liness came  on  me  as  I  reflected  on  my  position,  and 
my  intentions,  and  felt  the  utter  lack  of  sympathy 
with  me  in  all  around.  Even  my  own  white  assistant, 
with  whom  I  had  striven  hard,  was  less  sympathizing 
than  my  little  black  boy  Kalulu.  It  requires  more 
nerve  than  I  possess,  to  dispel  all  the  dark  pre- 
sentiments that  come  upon  the  mind.  But  probably 
what  I  call  presentiments  are  simply  the  impress  on 
the  mind  of  the  warnings  which  these  false-hearted 
Arabs  have  repeated  so  often.  This  melancholy  and 
loneliness  I  feel,  may  probably  have  their  origin  from 
the  same  cause.  The  single  candle,  which  barely  lights 
up  the  dark  shade  that  fills  the  corners  of  my  room, 
is  but  a  poor  incentive  to  cheerfulness.  I  feel  as  though 
I  were  imprisoned  between  stone  walls.  But  why 
should  I  feel  as  if  baited  by  these  stupid,  slow-witted 
Arabs  and  their  warnings  and  croakings  ?  I  fancy  a 
suspicion  haunts  my  mind,  as  I  write,  that  there  lies 
some  motive  behind  all  this.  I  wonder  if  these  Arabs 
tell  me  all  these  things  to  keep  me  here,  in  the  hope 
that  I  might  be  induced  another  time  to  assist  them  in 
their  war  with  Mirambo !  If  they  think  so,  they  are 
much  mistaken,  for  I  have  taken  a  solemn,  enduring 


Sept.  1871.] 


LIFE  IN  UNYA  NYEMBE. 


309 


oath,  an  oath  to  be  kept  while  the  least  hope  of  life 
remains  in  me,  not  to  be  tempted  to  break  the  resolution 
I  have  formed,  never  to  give  up  the  search,  until  I  find 
Livingstone  alive,  or  find  his  dead  body ;  and  never 
to  return  home  without  the  strongest  possible  proofs 
that  he  is  alive,  or  that  he  is  dead.  No  living  man, 
or  living  men,  shall  stop  me,  only  death  can  prevent 
me.  But  death — not  even  this ;  I  shall  not  die,  I  will 
not  die,  I  cannot  die !  And  something  tells  me,  I  do 
not  know  what  it  is — perhaps  it  is  the  ever-living  hope- 
fulness of  my  own  nature,  perhaps  it  is  the  natural 
presumption  born  out  of  an  abundant  and  glowing 
vitality,  or  the  outcome  of  an  overweening  confidence 
in  one's  self — anyhow  and  everyhow,  something  tells 
me  to-night  I  shall  find  him,  and — write  it  larger — 
Find  him!  Find  him!  Even  the  words  are  inspiring. 
I  feel  more  happy.  Have  I  uttered  a  prayer  ?  I  shall 
sleep  calmly  to-night. 

I  have  felt  myself  compelled  to  copy  out  of  my  Diary 
the  above  notes,  as  they  explain,  written  as  they  are  on 
the  spot,  the  vicissitudes  of  my  "  Life  at  Unyanyembe." 
To  me  they  appear  to  explain  far  better  than  any 
amount  of  descriptive  writing,  even  of  the  most  graphic, 
the  nature  of  the  life  I  led.  There  they  are,  un- 
exaggerated,  in  their  literality  and  entirety,  precisely 
as  I  conceived  them  at  the  time  they  happened.  They 
speak  of  fevers  without  number  to  myself  and  men, 
without  entering  into  any  diagnosis  of  or  disquisition 
upon  them ,  they  relate  our  dangers,  and  little  joys,  our 
annoyances  and  our  pleasures,  as  they  occurred. 


aic 


HOW  J  FOUND  L TVTNQS TONE 


CHAPTER  X. 


TO 

MRERA, 

UKONONGO. 

Untamwezi. 

Ukonongo. 

From  Kwihara  to  — 

h.  m. 

From  Manyara  to — 

h.  m 

Mkwenkwe  . 

.    1  30 

Gombe  Eiver 

.    4  15 

Inesuka  . 

.    2  0 

Ziwani 

.    5  20 

Kasegera 

.    3  0 

Tongoni  . 

.    1  30 

Kigandu  . 

.    2  45 

Camp 

.    5  15 

Ugunda  . 

.    7  0 

Marefu  . 

.    3  0 

Benta 

.    3  15 

Utende  . 

.    7  15 

Kikuru 

.    5  0 

Mtoni     .     .  . 

.    4  0 

Ziwani  . 

.    4  0 

Mwaru 

.    5  15 

Manyara  . 

6  30 

Mrera 

.    5  13 

The  20th  of  September  had  arrived.  This  was  the  day 
I  had  decided  to  cut  loose  from  those  who  tormented 
me  with  their  doubts,  their  fears,  and  beliefs,  and  com- 
mence the  march  to  Ujiji  by  a  southern  route.  I  was 
very  weak  from  the  fever  that  had  attacked  me  the  day 
before,  and  it  was  a  most  injudicious  act  to  commence  a 
march  under  such  circumstances.    But  I  had  boasted  to 


Sept.  1871.] 


TO  MR  ERA,  UKOXONGO. 


311 


Sheikh  bin  Nasib  that  a  white  man  never  breaks  his 
word,  and  my  reputation  as  a  white  man  would  have 
been  ruined  had  I  stayed  behind,  or  postponed  the 
march,  in  consequence  of  feebleness. 

I  mustered  the  entire  caravan  outside  the  tembe, 
our  flags  and  streamers  were  unfurled,  the  men  had 
their  loads  resting  on  1he  walls,  there  was  considerable 
shouting,  and  laughing,  and  negroidal  fanfaronnade. 
The  Arabs  had  collected  from  curiosity's  sake  to  see  us 
off — all  except  Sheikh  bin  Nasib,  whom  I  had  offended 
by  my  asinine  opposition  to  his  wishes.  The  old  Sheikh 
took  to  his  bed,  but  sent  his  son  to  bear  me  a  last  morsel 
of  philosophic  sentimentality,  which  I  was  to  treasure 
up  as  the  last  words  of  the  patriarchal  Sheikh,  the  son  of 
Xasib,  the  son  of  Ali,  the  son  of  Sayf.  Poor  Sheikh  !  if 
thou  hadst  only  known  what  was  at  the  bottom  of  this 
stubbornness — this  ass-like  determination  to  proceed 
the  wrong  way — what  wouldst  thou  then  have  said,  0 
Sheikh  ?  But  the  Sheikh  comforted  himself  with  the 
thought  that  I  might  know  what  I  was  about  better 
than  he  did,  which  is  most  likely,  only  neither  he  nor 
any  other  Arab  will  ever  know  exactly  the  motive  that 
induced  me  to  march  at  all  westward — when  the  road 
to  the  east  was  ever  so  much  easier. 

My  braves  whom  I  had  enlisted  for  a  rapid  march 
somewhere,  out  of  Unyanyembe,  were  named  as  fol- 
lows : — 

1.  John  William  Shaw,  London,  England. 

2.  Selim  Heshmy,  Jerusalem,  Palestine. 

3.  Seedy  Mbarak  Mombay,  Zanzibar. 

4.  Mabruki  Speke,  ditto. 

5.  Ulimengo,  ditto. 

6.  Ambari,  ditto. 

7.  Uledi,  ditto. 


312 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTON* 


8.  Asmani,  Zanzibar. 

9.  Sarmian,  ditto. 

10.  Kamna,  ditto. 

11.  Zaidi,  ditto. 

12.  Khamisi,  ditto. 

13.  Chowpereh,  Bagamoyo. 

14.  Kin  gar  u,  ditto. 

15.  Belali,  ditto. 

16.  Ferous,  Unyanyembe. 

17.  Rojab,  Bagamoyo. 

18.  Mabruk  Unyanyembe,  Unyanyemba. 

19.  Mtamani,  ditto. 

20.  Chanda,  Maroro. 

21.  Sadala,  Zanzibar. 

22.  Kombo,  ditto. 

23.  Saburi  the  Great,  Maroro. 

24.  Saburi  the  Little,  ditto. 

25.  Marora,  ditto. 

26.  Ferajji  (the  cook),  Zanzibar. 

27.  Mabruk  Saleem,  Zanzibar. 

28.  Baraka,  ditto. 

29.  Ibrahim,  Maroro. 

30.  Mabruk  Ferous,  ditto. 

31.  Baruti,  Bagamoyo. 

32.  Umgareza,  Zanzibar. 

33.  Hamadi  (the  guide),  ditto. 

34.  Asmani,      ditto  ditto. 

35.  Mabruk,     ditto  ditto. 

36.  Hamdallah,  ditto,  Tabora. 

37.  Jumah,  Zanzibar. 

38.  Maganga,  Mkwenkwe. 

39.  Muccadum,  Tabora. 

40.  Dasturi,  ditto. 

41.  Tumayona,  Ujiji. 


Sept.  1871.] 


TO  MB  ERA.  UKOXONGO. 


42.  Mparamoto,  Ujiji. 

43.  Wakiri,  ditto. 

44.  Mufti,  ditto. 

45.  Mpepo,  ditto. 

46.  Kapingu,  ditto. 

47.  Mashishanga,  ditto. 

48.  Muheruka,  ditto. 

49.  Missossi,  ditto. 

50.  Tufum  Byah,  ditto. 

51.  Majwara  (boy),  Uganda. 

52.  Belali  (boy),  Uemba. 

53.  Kalulu  (boy),  Lunda. 

54.  Abdul  Kader  (tailor),  Malabar. 

These  are  the  men  and  boys  whom  I  had  selected  to 
be  crowned  as  Immortals,  whom  I  had  chosen  to  be  my 
companions  on  the  apparently  useless  mission  of  seek- 
ing for  the  lost  traveller,  David  Livingstone.  The 
goods  with  which  I  had  burdened  them,  consisted  of 
1,000  doti,  or  4,000  yds.  of  cloth,  six  bags  of  beads,  four 
loads  of  ammunition,  one  tent,  one  bed  and  clothes,  one 
box  of  medicine,  sextant  and  books,  two  loads  of  tea, 
coffee,  and  sugar,  one  load  of  flour  and  candles,  one 
load  of  canned  meats,  sardines,  and  miscellaneous 
necessaries,  and  one  load  of  cooking  utensils. 

The  men  were  all  in  their  places  except  Bombay. 
Bombay  had  gone  ;  he  could  not  be  found.  I  despatched 
a  man  to  hunt  him  up.  He  was  found  weeping  in  the 
arms  of  his  Delilah. 

"  Why  did  you  go  away,  Bombay,  when  you  knew  I 
intended  to  go,  and  was  waiting?" 

u  Oh,  master,  I  was  saying  good-bye  to  my  missis." 

"  Oh,  indeed  ?" 

"  Yes,  master  ;  you  no  do  it,  when  you  go  away  ?" 


314 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGS  TONE. 


"  Silence,  sir." 
"  Oh  !  all  right." 

"  What  is  the  matter  with  you,  Bombay  ?" 
"  Oh,  nuffin." 

As  I  saw  he  was  in  a  humor  to  pick  a  quarrel  with 
me  before  those  Arabs  who  had  congregated  outside  of 
my  tembe  to  witness  my  departure,  and  as  I  was  not 
in  a  humor  to  be  balked  by  anything  that  might  turn 
up,  the  consequence  was,  that  I  was  obliged  to  thrash 
Bombay  with  my  dog-whip,  an  operation  which  soon 
cooled  his  hot  choler,  but  brought  down  on  my  head  a 
loud  chorus  of  remonstrances  from  my  pretended  Arab 
friends — "  Now,  master,  don't,  don't — stop  it,  master  : 
the  poor  man  knows  better  than  you  what  he  and  you 
may  expect  on  the  road  you  are  now  taking." 

If  anything  was  better  calculated  to  put  me  in  a  rage 
than  Bombay's  insolence  before  a  crowd  it  was  this 
gratuitous  interference  with  what  I  considered  my  own 
especial  business ;  but  I  restrained  myself,  though  I 
told  them,  in  a  loud  voice,  that  I  did  not  choose  to  be 
interfered  with,  unless  they  wished  to  quarrel  with  me. 

"  No,  no,  bana,"  they  all  exclaimed  ;  "  we  do  not 
wish  to  quarrel  with  you.  In  the  name  of  God  !  go  on 
your  way  in  peace." 

"  Fare  you  well,  then,"  said  I,  shaking  hands  with 
them. 

"  Farewell,  master,  farewell.    We  wish  you,  we  are 
sure,  all  success,  and  God  be  with  you,  and  guide  you  !" 
"  March  !" 

A  parting  salute  was  fired  ;  the  flags  were  raised  up 
by  the  guides,  each  pagazi  rushed  for  his  load,  and  in  a 
short  time,  with  songs  and  shouts,  the  head  of  the  Expe- 
dition had  filed  round  the  western  end  of  my  tembe 
along  the  road  to  Ugunda. 


Sept.  1871.] 


TO  MBEBA,  UK  ON 0 NO  0. 


315 


"  Now,  Mr.  Shaw,  I  am  waiting,  sir.  Mount  youi 
donkey,  if  you  cannot  walk." 

"  Please,  Mr.  Stanley,  I  am  afraid  I  cannot  go." 
-Why  ?" 

"  I  don't  know,  I  am  sure.    I  feel  very  weak." 

"  So  am  I  weak.  It  was  but  late  last  night,  as  you 
know,  that  the  fever  left  me.  Don't  back  out,  man, 
before  these  Arabs ;  remember  you  are  a  white  man. 
Here,  Selim,  Mabruki,  Bombay,  help  Mr.  Shaw  on  his 
donkey,  and  walk  by  him." 

"  Oh,  bana,  bana,"  said  the  Arabs,  "  don't  take  him. 
Do  you  not  see  he  is  sick  ?" 

"  You  keep  away  ;  nothing  will  prevent  me  from 
taking  him.    He  shall  go." 

"  Go  on,  Bombay." 

The  last  of  my  party  had  gone.  The  tembe,  so  lately 
a  busy  scene,  had  already  assumed  a  naked,  desolate 
appearance.  I  turned  towards  the  Arabs,  lifted  my  hat, 
and  said  again,  "  Farewell,"  then  faced  about  for  the 
south,  followed  by  my  four  young  gun-bearers,  Selim, 
Kalulu,  Majwara,  and  Belali. 

Before  we  had  gone  five  hundred  yards  the  wild 
Kinyamwezi  donkey,  probed  behind  by  sly  Mabruki, 
lifted  up  his  heels,  and  John  Shaw,  never  a  very  good 
rider,  measured  his  length  on  the  ground  near  a  thorn- 
bush.  Shaw  screamed,  and  we  all  ran  up  to  assist 
him. 

"  What  is  it,  my  dear  fellow  ?"  I  asked.  "  Are  you 
hurt  ?" 

"Oh  dear,  oh  dear  !  Let  me  go  back,  please,  Mr. 
Stanley." 

u  Why  ?  Because  you  have  had  a  fall  from  a  donkey  ? 
Come,  pluck  up  courage,  man.  I  should  be  so  sorry  to 
have  to  say  you  backed  out.    In  four  or  five  days  you 


31G 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


will  be  laughing  at  this  little  mishap.  Mostly  all  people 
feel  a  little  downhearted  when  they  leave  a  pleasant 
place.  Get  on  your  donkey  again,  old  fellow.  Say 
you  will  go — that's  the  ticket." 

We  assisted  him  once  more  ;  but  I  was  all  the  time 
wondering,  nevertheless,  if  it  were  not  much  better  to 
send  him  back,  rather  than  carry  an  unwilling  man 
almost  by  force  with  me  over  the  hundreds  of  miles  that 
must  lie  between  me  and  Ujiji.  What  if  he  died  on  the 
road  !  Perhaps  he  really  is  sick  !  No,  he  is  not — he 
is  only  pretending  !  But  I  confess  that,  had  I  been 
assured  that  I  would  not  be  laughed  at  by  the  Arabs,  I 
would  have  sent  him  back  there  and  then. 

After  half  an  hour's  march  the  scenery  became  more 
animated.  Shaw  began  to  be  amused.  Bombay  had 
forgotten  our  quarrel,  and  assured  me,  if  I  could  pass 
Mirambo's  country,  I  should  "  catch  the  Tanganika 
Mabruki  Speke  believed  we  should.  Selim  was  glad  to 
leave  Unyanyembe,  whore  he  had  suffered  so  much 
from  fever  ;  and  there  was  a  something  in  the  bold 
aspect  of  the  hills  which  cropped  upward  above  fair 
valleys,  that  enlivened  and  encouraged  me  to  proceed. 

In  an  hour  and  a  half,  we  arrived  at  our  camp  in  the 
Kinyamwezi  village  of  Mkwenkwe,  the  birthplace  of  our 
famous  chanter  Maganga. 

My  tent  was  pitched,  the  goods  were  stored  in  one  of 
the  tembes ;  but  one-half  the  men  had  returned  to  Kwi- 
hara,  to  take  one  more  embrace  of  their  wives  and 
concubines. 

Towards  night  I  was  attacked  once  again  with  the 
intermittent  fever.  Before  morning  it  had  departed, 
leaving  me  terribly  prostrated  with  weakness.  I  had 
heard  the  men  conversing  with  each  other  over  their 
camp-fires  upon  the  probable  prospects  of  the  next  day. 


Sept.  1871.] 


TO  MRERA,  UKONONGO. 


317 


It  was  a  question  with  them  whether  I  should  continue 
the  march.  Mostly  all  were  of  the  opinion  that,  since  the 
master  was  sick,  there  would  be  no  march.  A  super- 
lative obstinacy,  however,  impelled  me  on,  merely  to 
spite  their  supine  souls  ;  but  when  I  sallied  out  of  my 
tent  to  call  them  to  get  ready,  I  found  that  at  least 
twenty  were  missing  ;  and  Livingstone's  letter-carrier, 
"  Kaif-Halek  " — or,  How-do-ye-do  ? — had  not  arrived 
with  Dr.  Livingstone's  letter-bag. 

Selecting  twenty  of  the  strongest  and  faithfulest 
men,  I  despatched  them  back  to  Unyanyembe  in  search 
of  the  missing  men ;  and  Selim  was  sent  to  Sheikh  bin 
Nasib  to  borrow,  or  buy,  a  long  slave-chain. 

Towards  night  my  twenty  detectives  returned  with 
nine  of  the  missing  men.  The  Wajiji  had  deserted  in 
a  body,  and  they  could  not  be  found.  Selim  also  re- 
turned with  a  strong  chain,  capable  of  imprisoning 
within  the  collars  attached  to  it,  at  least  ten  men.  Kaif- 
Halek  also  appeared  with  the  letter-bag  which  he  was 
to  convey  to  Livingstone  under  my  escort.  The  men 
were  then  addressed,  and  the  slave-chain  exhibited  to 
them.  I  told  them  that  I  was  the  first  white  man  who 
had  taken  a  slave-chain  with  him  on  his  travels ;  but, 
as  they  were  all  so  frightened  of  accompanying  me,  I 
was  obliged  to  make  use  of  it,  as  it  was  the  only  means 
of  keeping  them  together.  The  good  need  never  fear 
being  chained  by  me — only  the  deserters,  the  thieves, 
who  received  their  hire  and  presents,  guns  and  ammu- 
nition, and  then  ran  away.  I  would  not  put  any  one 
this  time  in  chains  ;  but  whoever  deserted  after  this 
day  I  should  halt,  and  not  continue  the  march  till  I 
found  him,  after  which  he  should  march  to  Ujiji  with  the 
slave-chain  round  his  neck.  46  Do  you  hear  ?" — "  Yes," 
was  the  answer.    "  Do  you  understand  ?" — "  Yes." 


*18 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


We  broke  tip  camp  at  6  p.m.,  and  took  the  road  for 
Inesuka,  at  which  place  we  arrived  at  8  p.m. 

When  we  were  about  commencing  the  march  the 
next  morning,  it  was  discovered  that  two  more  had 
deserted.  Baraka  and  Bombay  were  at  once  despatched 
to  Unyanyembe  to  bring  back  the  two  missing  men 
— Asmani  and  Kingaru,  with  orders  not  to  return  with- 
out them.  This  was  the  third  time  that  the  latter  had 
deserted,  as  the  reader  may  remember.  While  the 
pursuit  was  being  effected  we  halted  at  the  village  of 
Inesuka,  more  for  the  sake  of  Shaw,  than  any  one  else. 

In  the  evening  the  incorrigible  deserters  were  brought 
back,  and,  as  I  had  threatened,  were  well  flogged  and 
chained,  to  secure  them  against  further  temptation. 
Bombay  and  Baraka  had  a  picturesque  story  to  relate 
of  the  capture ;  and,  as  I  was  in  an  exceedingly  good 
humor,  their  services  were  rewarded  with  a  fine  cloth 
each. 

On  the  following  morning  another  carrier  had  ab- 
sconded, taking  with  him  his  hire  of  fifteen  new  cloths 
and  a  gun ;  but  to  halt  anywhere  near  Unyanyembe 
any  longer  was  a  danger  that  could  be  avoided  only  by 
travelling  without  stoppages  towards  the  southern 
jungle-lands.  It  will  be  remembered  I  had  in  my  train 
the  redoubted  Abdul  Kader,  the  tailor,  he  who  had 
started  from  Bagamoyo  with  such  bright  anticipations 
of  the  wealth  of  ivory  to  be  obtained  in  the  great  in- 
terior of  Africa.  On  this  morning,  daunted  by  the 
reports  of  the  dangers  ahead,  Abdul  Kader  craved  to  be 
discharged.  He  vowed  he  was  sick,  and  unable  to 
proceed  any  further.  As  I  was  pretty  well  tired  of 
him,  I  paid  him  off  in  cloth,  and  permitted  him  to  go. 

About  half  way  to  Kasegera  Mabruk  Saleem  was 
suddenly  taken    sick  with  vomiting,   looseness,  and 


Sbpt.  1871.] 


TO  MR  EH  A,  UKONONGO. 


819 


constant  discharge  of  worms.  I  treated  him  with  a 
grain  of  calomel,  and  a  couple  of  ounces  of  brandy. 
As  he  was  unable  to  walk,  I  furnished  him  with  a 
donkey.  Another  man  named  Zaidi  was  ill  with  a 
rheumatic  attack ;  and  Shaw  tumbled  twice  off  the 
animal  he  was  riding,  and  required  an  infinite  amount 
of  coaxing  to  mount  again.  Yerily,  my  Expedition  was 
pursued  by  adverse  fortunes,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the 
Fates  had  determined  upon  our  return.  It  really 
appeared  as  if  everything  was  going  to  wreck  and 
ruin.  If  I  were  only  fifteen  days  from  Unyanyembe, 
thought  I,  I  should  be  saved. 

Kasegera  was  a  scene  of  rejoicing  the  afternoon  and 
evening  of  our  arrival.  Absentees  had  just  returned 
from  the  coast,  and  the  youths  were  brave  in  their 
gaudy  bedizenment,  their  new  barsatis,  their  soharis, 
and  long  cloths  of  bright  new  kaniki,  with  which  they 
had  adorned  themselves  behind  some  bush  before  they 
had  suddenly  appeared  dressed  in  all  this  finery.  The 
women  "  Hi-hi'ed "  like  maenads,  and  the  "  Lu-lu- 
lu'ing  "  was  loud,  frequent,  and  fervent  the  whole  of  that 
afternoon.  Sylph-like  damsels  looked  up  to  the  youth- 
ful heroes  with  intensest  admiration  on  their  features ; 
old  women  coddled  and  fondled  them ;  staff-using, 
stooping-backed  patriarchs  blessed  them.  This  is  fame 
in  Unyamwezi.  All  the  fortunate  youths  had  to  use 
their  tongues  until  the  wee  hours  of  next  morning  had 
arrived,  relating  all  the  wonders  they  had  seen  near  the 
Great  Sea,  and  in  the  u  Unguja,"  the  island  of  Zan- 
zibar ;  of  how  they  saw  great  white  men's  ships,  and 
numbers  of  white  men,  of  their  perils  and  trials  during 
their  journey  through  the  land  of  the  fierce  Wagogo, 
and  divers  other  facts,  with  which  the  reader  and  1 
are  by  this  time  well  acquainted. 


320 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


On  the  24th  we  struck  camp,  and  marched  through 
a  forest  of  imbiti  wood  in  a  S.S.W.  direction,  and  in 
about  three  hours  came  to  Kigandu. 

On  arriving  before  this  village,  which  is  governed 
by  a  daughter  of  Mkasiwa,  we  were  informed  we 
could  not  enter  unless  we  paid  toll.  As  we  would  not 
pay  toll,  we  were  compelled  to  camp  in  a  ruined,  rat- 
infested  boma,  situated  a  mile  to  the  left  of  Kigandu, 
being  well  scolded  by  the  cowardly  natives  for  deserting 
Mkasiwa  in  his  hour  of  extremity.  We  were  accused 
of  running  away  from  the  war. 

Almost  on  the  threshold  of  our  camp  Shaw,  in 
endeavouring  to  dismount,  lost  his  stirrups,  and  fell 
prone  on  his  face.  This  little  by-play  of  Mr.  Shaw's  was 
getting  too  frequent.  So,  as  the  men  rushed  to  assist 
him,  I  ordered  them  to  leave  him  alone.  The  foolish 
fellow  actually  laid  on  the  ground  in  the  hot  sun  a  full 
hour ;  and  when  I  coldly  asked  him;  if  he  did  not  feel 
rather  uncomfortable,  he  sat  up,  and  wept  like  a  child. 

"  Do  you  wish  to  go  back,  Mr.  Shaw  ?" 

"  If  you  please.  I  do  not  believe  I  can  go  any 
farther  ;  and  if  you  would  only  be  kind  enough,  I 
should  like  to  return  very  much." 

"  Well,  Mr.  Shaw,  I  have  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  is  best  you  should  return.  My  patience  is  worn 
out.  I  have  endeavoured  faithfully  to  lift  you  above 
these  petty  miseries  which  you  nourish  so  devotedly. 
You  are  simply  suffering  from  hypochondria.  You 
imagine  yourself  sick,  and  nothing,  evidently,  will 
persuade  you  that  you  are  not.  Mark  my  words 
— to  return  to  Unyanyembe,  is  to  die  !  Should  you 
happen  to  fall  sick  in  Kwihara  who  knows  how 
to  administer  medicine  to  you?  Supposing  you  are 
delirious,  how  can  any  of  my  soldiers  know  what  you 


Sept.  1871.] 


TO  MB  ERA,  UEONONOO. 


321 


want,  or  what  is  beneficial  and  necessary  for  you? 
Once  again,  I  repeat,  if  you  return,  you  die  P 

"  Ah,  dear  me  ;  I  wish  I  had  never  ventured  to 
come  !  I  thought  life  in  Africa  was  so  different  from 
this.    I  would  rather  go  back  if  you  will  permit  me." 

The  next  day  was  a  halt,  and  arrangements  were 
made  for  the  transportation  of  Shaw  back  to  Kwihara 
A  strong  litter  was  made,  and  four  stout  pagazis  were 
hired  at  Kigandu  to  carry  him.  Bread  was  baked, 
a  canteen  was  filled  with  cold  tea,  and  a  leg  of  a  kid 
was  roasted  for  his  sustenance  while  on  the  road. 

The  night  before  we  parted  w^e  spent  together. 
Shaw  played  some  tunes  on  an  accordion  wdrich  I  had 
purchased  for  him  at  Zanzibar ;  but,  though  it  was 
only  a  miserable  ten-dollar  affair,  I  thought  the  homely 
tunes  evoked  from  the  instrument  that  night  were 
divine  melodies.  The  last  tune  played  before  retiring 
was  "Home,  sweet  Home  and  I  fancy  that  before 
it  ended  we  had  mutually  softened  towards  each 
other. 

The  morning  of  the  27th  we  were  all  up  early. 
There  was  considerable  vis  in  our  movements.  A 
long,  long  march  lay  before  us  that  day ;  but  then  I 
was  to  leave  behind  all  the  sick  and  ailing.  Only 
those  who  were  healthy,  and  could  march  fast  and 
long,  were  to  accompany  me  Mabruk  Saleem  I  left 
in  charge  of  a  native  doctor,  who  was  to  medicate  him 
for  a  gift  of  cloth  which  I  gave  him  in  advance. 

The  horn  sounded  to  get  ready.  ShawT  was  lifted 
in  his  litter  on  the  shoulders  of  his  carriers.  My  men 
formed  two  ranks ;  the  flags  were  lifted ;  and  between 
these  two  living  rows,  and  under  those  bright  streamers, 
which  were  to  float  over  the  waters  of  the  Tanganika 
before  he  should  see  them  again,  Shaw  was  borne  away 

y 


322 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


towards  the  north  ;  while  we  filed  off  to  the  south,  with 
quicker  and  more  elastic  steps,  as  if  we  felt  an  incubus 
had  been  taken  from  us. 

We  ascended  a  ridge  bristling  with  syenite  boulders 
of  massive  size,  appearing  above  a  forest  of  dwarf  trees. 
The  view  which  we  saw  was  similar  to  that  we  had 
often  seen  elsewhere.  An  illimitable  forest  stretching 
in  grand  waves  far  beyond  the  ken  of  vision — ridges, 
forest-clad,  rising  gently  one  above  another  until  they 
receded  in  the  dim  purple-blue  distance — with  a  warm 
haze  floating  above  them,  which,  though  clear  enough 
in  our  neighbourhood,  became  impenetrably  blue  in  the 
far  distance.  Woods,  woods,  woods,  leafy  branches, 
foliaged  globes,  or  parachutes,  green,  brown,  or  sere  in 
color,  forests  one  above  another,  rising,  falling,  and 
receding — a  very  leafy  ocean.  The  horizon,  at  all 
points,  presents  the  same  view  ;  there  may  be  an  in- 
distinct outline  of  a  hill  far  away,  or  here  and  there  a 
tall  tree  higher  than  the  rest,  conspicuous  in  its  outlines 
against  the  translucent  sky — with  this  exception  it  is 
the  same — the  same  clear  sky  dropping  into  the  depths 
of  the  forest,  the  same  outlines,  the  same  forest,  the 
same  horizon,  day  after  day,  week  after  week  ;  we  hurry 
to  the  summit  of  a  ridge,  expectant  of  a  change,  but 
the  wearied  eyes,  after  wandering  over  the  vast  expanse, 
return  to  the  immediate  surroundings,  satiated  with 
the  ever-sameness  of  such  scenes.  Carlyle,  somewhere 
in  his  writings,  says,  that  though  the  Vatican  is  great, 
it  is  but  the  chip  of  an  eggshell  compared  to  the  star- 
fretted  dome  where  Arcturus  and  Orion  glance  for 
ever  ;  and  I  say  that,  though  the  grove  of  Central  Park, 
New  York,  is  grand  compared  to  the  thin  groves  seen 
in  other  great  cities,  that,  though  the  Windsor  and  the 
New  Forests  may  be  very  fine  and  noble  in  England. 


Sept.  1871.] 


TO  MRERA,  UKONONOO. 


yet  they  are  but  faggots  of  sticks  compared  to  these 
eternal  forests  of  Unyamwezi. 

We  marched  three  hours  and  then  halted  for  refresh- 
ments. I  perceived  that  the  people  were  very  tired, 
not  yet  inured  to  a  series  of  long  marches,  or  rather, 
not  in  proper  trim  for  earnest,  hard  work  after  our  long 
rest  in  Kwihara.  When  we  resumed  our  march  again 
there  were  several  manifestations  of  bad  temper  and 
weariness.  But  a  few  good-natured  remarks  about 
their  laziness  put  them  on  their  mettle,  and  we  reached 
Ugunda  at  2  p.m.  after  another  four  hours'  spurt. 

Ugunda  is  a  very  large  village  in  the  district  of 
Ugunda,  which  adjoins  the  southern  frontier  of  Unya- 
nyembe.  The  village  probably  numbers  four  hundred 
families,  or  two  thousand  souls.  It  is  well  protected  by 
a  tall  and  strong  palisade  of  three-inch  timber.  Stages 
have  been  erected  at  intervals  above  the  palisades  with 
miniature  embrasures  in  the  timber,  for  the  muskets  of 
the  sharpshooters,  who  take  refuge  within  these  box- 
like stages  to  pick  out  the  chiefs  of  an  attacking  force. 
An  inner  ditch,  with  the  sand  or  soil  thrown  up  three 
or  four  feet  high  against  the  palings,  serves  as  pro- 
tection for  the  main  body  of  the  defenders,  who  kneel 
in  the  ditch,  and  are  thus  enabled  to  withstand  a 
very  large  force.  For  a  mile  or  two  outside  the  village 
all  obstructions  are  cleared,  and  the  besieged  are  thus 
warned  by  sharp-eyed  watchers  to  be  prepared  for  the 
defence  before  the  enemy  approaches  within  musket 
range.  Mirambo  withdrew  his  force  of  robbers  from 
before  this  strongly-defended  village  after  two  or  three 
ineffectual  attempts  to  storm  it,  and  the  Wagunda  have 
been  congratulating  themselves  ever  since,  upon  having 
driven  away  the  boldest  marauder  that  Unyamwezi  has 
seen  for  generations. 


324 


HOW  J  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  Wagunda  have  about  three  thousand  square 
acres  under  cultivation  around  their  principal  village, 
and  this  area  suffices  to  produce  sufficient  grain  not 
only  for  their  own  consumption,  but  also  for  the 
many  caravans  which  pass  by  this  way  for  Ufipa  and 
Marungu. 

However  brave  the  Wagunda  may  be  within  the 
strong  enclosure  with  which  they  have  surrounded 
their  principal  village,  they  are  not  exempt  from  the 
feeling  of  insecurity  which  fills  the  soul  of  a  Mnyam- 
wezi  during  war-time.  At  this  place  the  caravans  are 
accustomed  to  recruit  their  numbers  from  the  swarms 
of  pagazis  who  volunteer  to  accompany  them  to  the 
distant  ivory  regions  south ;  but  I  could  not  induce  a 
soul  to  follow  me,  so  great  was  their  fear  of  Mirambo 
and  his  Ruga-Ruga.  They  were  also  full  of  rumors  of 
wars  ahead.  It  was  asserted  that  Mbogo  was  advancing 
towards  Ugunda  with  a  thousand  Wakonongo,  that 
the  Wazavira  had  attacked  a  caravan  four  months 
previously,  that  Simba  was  scouring  the  country  with  a 
band  of  ferocious  mercenaries,  and  much  more  of  the 
same  nature  and  to  the  same  intent. 

On  the  28th  we  arrived  at  a  small  snug  village 
embosomed  within  the  forest  called  Benta,  three  hours 
and  a  quarter  from  Ugunda.  The  road  led  through  the 
cornfields  of  the  Wagunda,  and  then  entered  the  clear- 
ings around  the  villages  of  Kisari,  within  one  of  which 
we  found  the  proprietor  of  a  caravan  who  was  drumming 
up  carriers  for  Ufipa.  He  had  been  halted  here  two 
months,  and  he  made  strenuous  exertions  to  induce  my 
men  to  join  his  caravan,  a  proceeding  that  did  not  tend 
to  promote  harmony  between  us.  A  few  days  after- 
wards 1  found,  on  my  return,  that  he  had  given  up  the 
idea  of  proceeding  south.    Leaving  Kisari,  we  marched 


Sept.  1871.] 


TO  MBERA,  UKONONQO. 


325 


through  a  thin  jungle  of  black  jack,  over  sun-cracked 
ground  with  here  and  there  a  dried-up  pool,  the  bottom 
of  which  was  well  tramped  by  elephant  and  rhinoceros. 
Buffalo  and  zebra  tracks  were  now  frequent,  and  we 
were  buoyed  up  with  the  hope  that  before  long  we 
should  meet  game. 

Benta  was  well  supplied  with  Indian  corn  and  a 
grain  which  the  natives  called  choroko,  which  I  take  to 
be  vetches.  I  purchased  a  large  supply  of  choroko  for 
my  own  personal  use,  as  I  found  it  to  be  a  most 
healthy  food.  The  corn  was  stored  on  the  flat  roofs  of 
the  tembes  in  huge  boxes  made  out  of  the  bark  of  the 
mtundu-tree.  The  largest  box  I  have  ever  seen  in  Africa 
was  seen  here.  It  might  be  taken  for  a  Titan's  hat-box  ; 
it  was  seven  feet  in  diameter,  and  ten  feet  in  height. 

On  the  29th,  after  travelling  in  a  S.W.  by  S.  direc- 
tion, we  reached  Kikuru.  The  march  lasted  for  five 
hours  over  sun-cracked  plains,  growing  the  black  jack, 
and  ebony,  and  dwarf  shrubs,  above  which  numerous 
ant-hills  of  light  chalky-colored  earth  appeared  like 
sand  dunes. 

The  mukunguru,  a  Kisawahili  term  for  fever,  is  fre- 
quent in  this  region  of  extensive  forests  and  flat  plains, 
owing  to  the  imperfect  drainage  provided  by  nature  for 
them.  In  the  dry  season  there  is  nothing  very  offensive 
in  the  view  of  the  country.  The  burnt  grass  gives  rather 
a  sombre  aspect  to  the  country,  covered  with  the  hard- 
baked  tracks  of  animals  which  haunt  these  plains  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  rainy  season.  In  the  forest 
numbers  of  trees  lie  about  in  the  last  stages  of  decay, 
and  working  away  with  might  and  main  on  the  pro- 
strate trunks  may  be  seen  numberless  insects  of  various 
species.  Impalpably,  however,  the  poison  of  the  dead 
and  decaying  vegetation  is  inhaled  into  the  system 


826 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


with  a  result  sometimes  as  fatal  as  that  which  is  said  tc 
arise  from  the  vicinity  of  the  Upas-tree. 

The  first  evil  results  experienced  from  the  presence 
of  malaria  are  confined  howels  and  an  oppressive  languor; 
excessive  drowsiness,  and  a  constant  disposition  to 
yawn.  The  tongue  assumes  a  yellowish,  sickly  hue, 
colored  almost  to  blackness ;  even  the  teeth  become 
yellow,  and  are  coated  with  an  offensive  matter.  The 
eyes  of  the  patient  sparkle  lustrously,  and  become 
suffused  with  water.  These  are  sure  symptoms  of  the 
incipient  fever  which  shortly  will  rage  through  the 
system,  laying  the  sufferer  prostrate  and  quivering  with 
agony. 

Sometimes  this  fever  is  preceded  by  a  violent  shaking 
fit,  during  which  period  blankets  may  be  heaped  on  the 
patient's  form,  with  but  little  amelioration  of  the  deadly 
chill  he  feels.  It  is  then  succeeded  by  an  unusually 
severe  headache,  with  excessive  pains  about  the  loins 
and  spinal  column,  which  presently  will  spread  over 
the  shoulder-blades,  and,  running  up  the  neck,  find 
a  final  lodgment  in  the  back  and  front  of  the  head. 
Usually,  however,  the  fever  is  not  preceded  by  a  chill, 
but  after  languor  and  torpitude  have  seized  him,  with 
excessive  heat  and  throbbing  temples,  the  loin  and  spinal 
column  aches,  and  raging  thirst  soon  possesses  him. 
The  brain  becomes  crowded  with  strange  fancies,  which 
sometimes  assume  most  hideous  shapes.  Before  the 
darkened  vision  of  the  suffering  man,  float  in  a  seeth- 
ing atmosphere,  figures  of  created  and  uncreated 
reptiles,  which  are  metamorphosed  every  instant  into 
stranger  shapes  and  designs,  growing  every  moment 
more  confused,  more  complicated,  more  hideous  and 
terrible.  Unable  to  bear  longer  the  distracting  scene, 
be  makes  an  effort  and  opens  his  eyes,  and  dissolves  the 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MR  ERA,  UKONGNGO. 


327 


delirious  dream,  only,  however,  to  glide  again  uncon- 
sciously into  another  dream-land  where  another  unreal 
inferno  is  dioramically  revealed,  and  new  agonies  suf- 
fered. Oh!  the  many  many  hours  that  I  have  groaned 
under  the  terrible  incubi  which  the  fits  of  real 
delirium  evoke.  Oh !  the  racking  anguish  of  body 
that  a  traveller  in  Africa  must  undergo !  Oh !  the 
spite,  the  fretfulness,  the  vexation  which  the  horrible 
phantasmagoria  of  diabolisms  induce  !  The  utmost  pa- 
tience fails  to  appease,  the  most  industrious  attendance 
fails  to  gratify,  the  deepest  humility  displeases.  During 
these  terrible  transitions,  which  induce  fierce  distraction, 
Job  himself  would  become  irritable,  insanely  furious, 
and  choleric.  A  man  in  such  a  state  regards  himself 
as  the  focus  of  all  miseries.  When  recovered,  he  feels 
chastened,  becomes  urbane  and  ludicrously  amiable,  he 
conjures  up  fictitious  delights  from  all  things  which,  but 
yesterday,  possessed  for  him  such  awful  portentous 
aspects.  His  men  he  regards  with  love  and  friendship  ; 
whatever  is  trite  he  views  with  ecstasy.  Nature 
appears  charming ;  in  the  dead  woods  and  monotonous 
forest  his  mind  becomes  overwhelmed  with  delight.  I 
speak  for  myself,  as  a  careful  analysation  of  the  attack, 
in  all  its  severe,  plaintive,  and  silly  phases,  appeared 
to  me.  I  used  to  amuse  myself  with  taking  notes  of  the 
humorous  and  the  terrible,  the  fantastic  and  exagge- 
rated pictures  that  were  presented  to  me — even  while 
suffering  the  paroxysms  induced  by  fever. 

We  arrived  at  a  large  pool,  known  as  the  Ziwani, 
after  a  four  hours'  march  in  a  S.S.W.  direction,  the 
1st  of  October.  We  discovered  an  old  half-burnt 
khambi,  sheltered  by  a  magnificent  mkuyu  (sycamore), 
the  giant  of  the  forests  of  Unyamwezi,  which  after  an 
hour  we  transformed  into  a  splendid  camp. 


S28 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


If  I  recollect  rightly,  the  stem  of  the  tree  measured 
thirty-eight  feet  in  circumference.  It  is  the  finest  tree 
of  its  kind  I  have  seen  in  Africa.  A  regiment  might 
with  perfect  ease  have  reposed  under  this  enormous 
dome  of  foliage  during  a  noon  halt.  The  diameter  of 
the  shadow  it  cast  on  the  ground  was  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet.  The  healthful  vigor  that  I  was 
enjoying  about  this  time  enabled  me  to  regard  my 


GIGANTIC  SYCAMORE,  AND  CAMP  BENEATH  IT. 


surroundings  admiringly.  A  feeling  of  comfort  and 
perfect  contentment  took  possession  of  me,  such  as  I 
knew  not  while  fretting  at  Unyanyembe,  wearing  my 
life  away  in  inactivity.  I  talked  with  my  people  as  to 
my  friends  and  equals.  We  argued  with  each  other 
about  our  prospects  in  quite  a  companionable,  sociable 
vein. 

When  daylight  was  dying,  and  the  sun  was  sinking 
down  rapidly  over  the  western  horizon,  vividly  paint- 


Oct.  1871.]  TO  MRERA,  UKONONGO. 


329 


ing  the  sky  with  the  colors  of  gold  and  silver,  saffron, 
and  opal,  when  its  rays  and  gorgeous  tints  were  re- 
flected upon  the  tops  of  the  everlasting  forest,  with  the 
quiet  and  holy  calm  of  heaven  resting  upon  all  around, 
and  infusing  even  into  the  untutored  minds  of  those 
about  me,  the  exquisite  enjoyments  of  such  a  life  as  we 
were  now  leading  in  the  depths  of  a  great  expanse  of 
forest,  the  only  and  sole  human  occupants  of  it — this 
was  the  time,  after  our  day's  work  was  ended,  and  the 
camp  was  in  a  state  of  perfect  security,  when  we  all 
would  produce  our  pipes,  and  could  best  enjoy  the 
labors  which  we  had  performed,  and  the  contentment 
which  follows  a  work  well  done. 

Outside  nothing  is  heard  beyond  the  cry  of  a  stray 
florican,  or  guinea-fowl,  which  has  lost  her  mate,  or 
the  hoarse  croaking  of  the  frogs  in  the  pool  hard 
by,  or  the  song  of  the  crickets  which  seems  to  lull  the 
day  to  rest ;  inside  our  camp  are  heard  the  gurgles  of 
the  gourd  pipes  as  the  men  inhale  the  blue  ether,  which 
I  also  love.  I  am  contented  and  happy,  stretched  on 
my  carpet  under  the  dome  of  living  foliage,  smoking 
my  short  meerschaum,  indulging  in  thoughts — despite 
the  beauty  of  the  still  grey  light  of  the  sky,  and  of  the 
air  of  serenity  which'  prevails  around — of  home  and 
friends  in  distant  America,  and  these  thoughts  soon 
change  to  my  work — yet  incomplete  ;  to  the  man  who 
to  me  is  yet  a  myth,  who,  for  all  I  know,  may  be  dead, 
or  may  be  near  or  far  from  me  tramping  through  just 
such  a  forest,  whose  tops  I  see  bound  the  view  outside 
my  camp.  We  are  both  on  the  same  soil,  perhaps,  in 
the  same  forest — who  knows  ? — yet  is  he  to  me  so  far 
removed  that  he  might  as  well  be  in  his  own  little 
cottage  of  Ulva.  Though  I  am  even  now  ignorant  of 
his  very  existence,  yet  I  feel  a  certain  complacency,  a 


330 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


certain  satisfaction  which  would  be  difficult  to  describe 
Why  is  man  so  feeble,  and  weak,  that  be  must  tramp, 
tramp  hundreds  of  miles  to  satisfy  the  doubts  his 
impatient  and  uncurbed  mind  feels  ?  Why  cannot  my 
form  accompany  the  bold  flights  of  my  mind  and 
satisfy  the  craving  I  feel  to  resolve  the  vexed  question 
that  ever  rises  to  my  lips — "  Is  he  alive  ?"  0  !  soul 
of  mine,  be  patient,  thou  hast  a  felicitous  tranquillity, 
which  other  men  might  envy  thee  !  Sufficient  for  the 
hour  is  the  consciousness  thou  hast  that  thy  mission  is 
a  holy  one  !    Onward,  and  be  hopeful  ! 

Monday,  *he  2nd  of  October,  found  us  traversing  the 
forest  and  plain  that  extends  from  the  Ziwani  to  Man- 
yara,  ^hich  occupied  us  six  and  a  half  hours.  The  sun 
was  intensely  hot ;  but  the  mtundu  and  Iniombo  trees 
grew  at  intervals,  just  enough  to  admit  free  growth  to 
each  tree,  while  the  blended  foliage  formed  a  grateful 
shade.  The  path  was  clear  and  easy,  the  stamped  and 
firm  red  soil  offered  no  obstructions.  The  only  provo- 
cation we  suffered  was  from  the  attacks  of  the  tsetse,  or 
panga  (sword)  fly,  which  swarmed  here.  We  knew  we 
were  approaching  an  extensive  habitat  of  game,  and  we 
were  constantly  on  the  alert  for  any  specimens  that 
might  be  inhabiting  these  forests. 

While  we  were  striding  onward,  at  the  rate  of  nearly 
three  miles  an  hour,  the  caravan  I  perceived  sheered  off 
from  the  road,  resuming  it  about  fifty  yards  ahead  of 
something  on  the  road,  to  which  the  attention  of  the 
men  was  directed.  On  coming  up,  I  found  the  object  to 
be  the  dead  body  of  a  man,  who  had  fallen  a  victim  to 
that  fearful  scourge  of  Africa,  the  small-pox.  He  was 
one  of  Oseto's  gang  of  marauders,  or  guerillas,  in  the 
service  of  Mkasiwa  of  Unvanyembe,  who  were  hunting 
these  forests  for  the  guerillas  of  Mirambo.    They  had 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MR  ERA,  UKONONGO. 


331 


been  returning  from  TJkonongo  from  a  raid  they  had 
instituted  against  the  Sultan  of  Mbogo,  and  they  had 
left  their  comrade  to  perish  in  the  road.  He  had  appa- 
rently been  only  one  day  dead. 

Apropos  of  this,  it  was  a  frequent  thing  with  us  to 
discover  a  skeleton  or  a  skull  on  the  roadside.  Almost 
every  day  we  saw  one,  sometimes  two,  of  these  relics  of 
dead,  and  forgotten  humanity. 

Shortly  after  this  we  emerged  from  the  forest,  and 
entered  a  mbuga,  or  plain,  in  which  we  saw  a  couple  of 
giraffes,  whose  long  necks  were  seen  towering  above  a 
bush  they  had  been  nibbling  at.  This  sight  was  greeted 
with  a  shout ;  for  we  now  knew  we  had  entered  the 
game  country,  and  that  near  the  Gombe  creek,  or  river, 
where  we  intended  to  halt,  we  should  see  plenty  of 
these  animals. 

A  walk  of  three  hours  over  this  hot  plain  brought 
us  to  the  cultivated  fields  of  Manyara.  Arriving  before 
the  village-gate,  we  were  forbidden  to  enter,  as  the 
country  was  throughout  in  a  state  of  war,  and  it 
behoved  them  to  be  very  careful  of  admitting  any  party, 
lest  the  villagers  might  be  compromised.  We  were, 
however,  directed  to  a  khambi  to  the  right  of  the  vil- 
lage, near  some  pools  of  clear  water,  where  we  disco- 
vered some  half  dozen  ruined  huts,  which  looked  very 
uncomfortable  to  tired  people. 

After  we  had  built  our  camp,  the  kirangozi  was  fur- 
nished with  some  cloths  to  purchase  food  from  the  village 
for  the  transit  of  a  wilderness  in  front  of  us,  which  was 
said  to  extend  nine  marches,  or  135  miles.  He  was 
informed  that  the  Mtemi  had  strictly  prohibited  his 
people  from  selling  any  grain  whatever. 

This  evidently  was  a  case  wherein  the  exercise  of  a 
little  diplomacy  could  only  be  effective ;  because  it 


3S2 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


would  detain  us  several  days  here,  if  we  were  compelled 
to  send  men  back  to  Kikuru  for  provisions.  Opening 
a  bale  of  choice  goods,  I  selected  two  royal  cloths,  and 
told  Bombay  to  carry  them  to  him,  with  the  compli- 
ments and  friendship  of  the  white  man.  The  Sultan 
sulkily  refused  them,  and  bade  him  return  to  the  white 
man  and  tell  him  not  to  bother  him.  Entreaties  were 
of  no  avail,  he  would  not  relent ;  and  the  men,  in  ex- 
ceedingly bad  temper,  and  hungry,  were  obliged  to  go 
to  bed  supperless.  The  words  of  Njara,  a  slave-trader, 
and  parasite  of  the  great  Sheikh  bin  Nasib,  recurred  to 
me.  44  Ah,  master,  master,  you  will  find  the  people 
will  be  too  much  for  you,  and  that  you  will  have  to 
return.  The  Wa-manyara  are  bad,  the  Wakonongo  are 
very  bad,  the  Wazavira  are  the  worst  of  all.  You  have 
come  to  this  country  at  a  bad  time.  It  is  war  every- 
where." And,  indeed,  judging  from  the  tenor  of  the 
conversations  around  our  camp-fires,  it  seemed  but  too 
evident.  There  was  every  prospect  of  a  general  decamp 
of  all  my  people.  However,  I  told  them  not  to  be 
discouraged  ;  that  I  would  get  food  for  them  in  the 
morning. 

The  bale  of  choice  cloths  was  opened  again  next 
morning,  and  four  royal  cloths  were  this  time  selected, 
and  two  dotis  of  Merikani,  and  Bombay  was  again 
despatched,  burdened  with  compliments,  and  polite 
words.  It  was  necessary  to  be  very  politic  with  a 
man  who  was  so  surly,  and  too  powerful  to  make  an 
enemy  of.  What  if  he  made  up  his  mind  to  imitate 
the  redoubtable  Mirambo,  King  of  Uyoweh  !  The  effect 
of  my  munificent  liberality  was  soon  seen  in  the 
abundance  of  provender  which  came  to  my  camp. 
Before  an  hour  went  by,  there  came  boxes  full  of  cho- 
roko,  beans,  rice,  matama  or  dourra,  and  Indian  corn, 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MREBA,  UKONONGO. 


333 


carried  on  the  heads  of  a  dozen  villagers,  and  shortly 
after  the  Mterni  himself  came,  followed  by  about  thirty 
musketeers  and  twenty  spearmen,  to  visit  the  first 
white  man  ever  seen  on  this  road.  Behind  these 
warriors  came  a  liberal  gift,  fully  equal  in  value 
to  that  sent  to  him,  of  several  large  gourds  of  honey, 
fowls,  goats,  and  enough  vetches  and  beans  to  supply 
my  men  with  four  days'  food. 

I  met  the  chief  at  the  gate  of  my  camp,  and  bowing 
profoundly,  invited  him  to  my  tent,  which  I  had  arranged 
as  well  as  my  circumstances  would  permit,  for  this 
reception.  My  Persian  carpet  and  bear  skin  were 
spread  out,  and  a  broad  piece  of  bran-new  crimson 
cloth  covered  my  kitanda,  or  bedstead. 

The  chief,  a  tall  robust  man,  and  his  chieftains,  were 
invited  to  seat  themselves.  They  cast  a  look  of  such 
gratified  surprise  at  myself,  at  my  face,  my  clothes,  and 
guns,  as  is  almost  impossible  to  describe.  They  looked  at 
me  intently  for  a  few  seconds,  and  then  at  each  other, 
which  ended  in  an  uncontrollable  burst  of  laughter,,  and 
repeated  snappings  of  the  fingers.  They  spoke  the 
Kinyamwezi  language,  and  my  interpreter  Maganga 
was  requested  to  inform  the  chief  of  the  great  delight 
I  felt  in  seeing  them.  After  a  short  period  expended  in 
interchanging  compliments,  and  a  competitive  excellence 
at  laughing  at  one  another,  their  chief  desired  me  to 
show  him  my  guns.  The  "  sixteen  -shooter,"  the 
Winchester  rifle,  elicited  a  thousand  flattering  observa- 
tions from  the  excited  man ;  and  the  tiny  deadly 
revolvers,  whose  beauty  and  workmanship  they  thought 
were  superhuman,  evoked  such  gratified  eloquence  that  I 
was  fain  to  try  something  else.  The  double-barreled 
guns  fired  with  heavy  charges  of  powder,  caused  them 
to  jump  up  in  affected  alarm,  and  then  to  subside 


334 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  their  seats  convulsed  with  laughter.  As  the 
enthusiasm  of  my  guests  increased,  they  seized  each 
other's  index  fingers,  screwed  them,  and  pulled  at  them 
until  I  feared  they  would  end  in  their  dislocation. 
After  having  explained  to  them  the  difference  between 
white  men  and  Arabs,  I  pulled  out  my  medicine  chest, 
which  evoked  another  burst  of  rapturous  sighs  at 
the  cunning  neatness  of  the  array  of  vials.  He  asked 
what  they  meant. 

"  Dowa,"  I  replied  sententiously,  a  word  which  may 
be  interpreted — medicine. 

"  Oh-h,  oh-h,"  they  murmured  admiringly.  I  suc- 
ceeded, before  long,  in  winning  unqualified  admiration, 
and  my  superiority,  compared  to  the  best  of  the  Arabs 
they  had  seen,  was  but  too  evident.  "  Dowa,  dowa," 
they  added. 

"  Here,"  said  I,  uncorking  a  vial  of  medicinal  brandy, 
"is  the  Kisungu  pombe  "  (white  man's  beer);  '  take 
a  spoonful  and  try  it,"  at  the  same  time  Handing  it. 

"  Hacht,  hacht,  oh,  hacht !  what !  eh  !  what  strong 
beer  the  white  men  have !  Oh,  how  my  throat 
burns !" 

44  Ah,  but  it  is  good,"  said  I,  "  a  little  of  it  makes  men 
feel  strong,  and  good ;  but  too  much  of  it  makes  men 
bad,  and  they  die." 

"  Let  me  have  some,"  said  one  of  the  chiefs;  "  and 
me/'  "  and  me,"  "  and  me,"  as  soon  as  each  had  tasted. 

I  next  produced  a  bottle  of  concentrated  ammonia, 
which  as  I  explained  was  for  snake  bites,  and  head- 
aches ;  the  Sultan  immediately  complained  he  had 
a  head-ache,  and  must  have  a  little.  Telling  him 
to  close  his  eyes,  I  suddenly  uncorked  the  bottle,  and 
presented  it  to  His  Majesty's  nose.  The  effect  was 
magical,  for  he  fell  back  as  if  shot,  and  such  contortions 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MRERA,  UKONONGO. 


335 


as  his  features  underwent  are  indescribable.  His  chiefs 
roared  with  laughter,  and  clapped  their  hands,  pinched 
each  other,  snapped  their  fingers,  and  committed  many 
other  ludicrous  things.  I  verily  believe  if  such  a  scene 
were  presented  on  any  stage  in  the  world  the  effect  of 
it  would  be  visible  instantaneously  on  the  audience  ; 
that  had  they  seen  it  as  I  saw  it,  they  would  have 
laughed  themselves  to  hysteria  and  madness.  Finally 
the  Sultan  recovered  himself,  great  tears  rolling  down 
his  cheeks,  and  his  features  quivering  with  laughter, 
then  he  slowly  uttered  the  word  "  kali," — hot,  strong, 
quick,  or  ardent  medicine.  He  required  no  more,  but 
the  other  chiefs  pushed  forward  to  get  one  wee  sniff, 
which  they  no  sooner  had,  than  all  went  into  paroxysms 
of  uncontrollable  laughter.  The  entire  morning  was 
passed  in  this  state  visit,  to  the  mutual  satisfaction  of 
all  concerned.  "  Oh,"  said  the  Sultan  at  parting, 
"  these  white  men  know  everything,  the  Arabs  are  dirt, 
compared  to  them !" 

That  night  Hamdallah,  one  of  the  guides,  deserted, 
carrying  with  him  his  hire  (27  doti),  and  a  gun.  It  was 
useless  to  follow  him  in  the  morning,  as  it  would  have 
detained  me  many  more  days  than  I  could  afford ;  but 
I  mentally  vowed  that  Mr.  Hamdallah  should  work  out 
those  27  doti  of  cloths,  before  I  reached  the  coast. 

Wednesday,  October  4th,  saw  us  travelling  to  the 
Gombe  River,  which  is  4  h.  15  m.  march  from  Manyara, 

We  had  barely  left  the  waving  cornfields  of  my 
friend  Ma-manyara  before  we  came  in  sight  of  a 
herd  of  noble  zebra ;  two  hours  afterwards  we  had 
entered  a  grand  and  noble  expanse  of  park  land, 
whose  glorious  magnificence  and  vastness  of  prospect, 
with  a  far-stretching  carpet  of  verdure,  darkly  flecked 
here  and  there  by  miniature  clumps  of  jungle,  with 


336 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


spreading  trees  growing  here  and  there,  was  certainly 
one  of  the  finest  scenes  to  be  seen  in  Africa.  Added 
to  which,  as  I  surmounted  one  of  the  numerous  small 
knolls,  I  saw  herds  after  herds  of  buffalo  and  zebra, 
giraffe  and  antelope,  which  sent  the  blood  coursing 
through  my  veins  in  the  excitement  of  the  moment,  as 
when  I  first  landed  on  African  soil.  We  crept  along 
the  plain  noiselessly  to  our  camp  on  the  banks  of  the 
sluggish  waters  of  the  Gombe. 

Here  at  last  was  the  hunter's  Paradise  !  How  petty 
and  insignificant  appeared  my  hunts  after  small  ante- 
lope and  wild  boar,  what  a  foolish  waste  of  energies 
those  long  walks  through  damp  grasses  and  through 
thorny  jungles !  Did  I  not  well  remember  my  first 
bitter  experience  in  African  jungles  when  in  the 
maritime  region  !  But  this — where  is  the  nobleman's 
park  that  can  match  this  scene  ?  Here  is  a  soft,  velvety 
expanse  of  young  grass,  grateful  shade  under  those 
spreading  clumps ;  herds  of  large  and  varied  game 
browsing  within  easy  rifle  range.  Surely  I  must  feel 
amply  compensated  now  for  the  long  southern  detour  I 
have  made,  when  such  a  prospect  as  this  opens  to  the 
view  !  No  thorny  jungles  and  rank  smelling  swamps 
are  here  to  daunt  the  hunter,  and  to  sicken  his  aspira- 
tions after  true  sport !  No  hunter  could  aspire  after  a 
nobler  field  to  display  his  prowess. 

Having  settled  the  position  of  the  camp,  which  over- 
looked one  of  the  pools  found  in  the  depression  of  the 
Gombe  creek,  I  took  my  double-barreled  smooth  bore, 
and  sauntered  off  to  the  park-land.  Emerging  from 
behind  a  clump,  three  fine  plump  spring-bok  were  seen 
browsing  on  the  young  grass  just  within  one  hundred 
yards.  I  knelt  down  and  fired  ;  one  unfortunate  ante- 
lope bounded  upward  instinctively,  and  fell  dead.  Its 


Oct.  1871,]  TO  MRERA,  UKONONGO. 


337 


companions  sprang  high  into  the  air,  taking  leaps  about 
twelve  feet  in  length,  as  if  they  were  quadrupeds  prac- 
tising gymnastics,  and  away  they  vanished,  rising  up 
like  India-rubber  balls,  until  a  knoll  hid  them  from 
view.  My  success  was  hailed  with  loud  shouts  by  the 
soldiers,  who  came  running  out  from  the  camp  as  soon 
as  they  heard  the  reverberation  of  the  gun,  and  my 
gun-bearer  had  his  knife  at  the  beast's  throat,  uttering 
a  fervent  "  Bismillah  !"  as  he  almost  severed  the  head 
from  the  body. 

Hunters  were  now  directed  to  proceed  east  and  north 
to  procure  meat,  because  in  each  caravan  it  generally 
happens  that  there  are  fundi,  whose  special  trade  it  is 
to  hunt  for  meat  for  the  camp.  Some  of  these  are 
experts  in  stalking,  but  often  find  themselves  in 
dangerous  positions,  owing  to  the  near  approach  neces- 
sary, before  they  can  fire  their  most  inaccurate  weapons 
with  any  certainty. 

After  luncheon,  consisting  of  spring-bok  steak,  hot 
corn-cake,  and  a  cup  of  delicious  Mocha  coffee,  I  strolled 
towards  the  south-west,  accompanied  by  Kalulu  and 
Majwara,  two  boy  gun-bearers.  The  tiny  perpusilla 
started  up  like  rabbits  from  me  as  I  stole  along  through 
the  underbrush  ;  the  honey-bird  hopped  from  tree 
to  tree  chirping  its  call,  as  if  it  thought  I  was  seeking 
the  little  sweet  treasure,  the  hiding-place  of  whicli  it 
only  knew;  but  no!  I  neither  desired  perpusilla  nor  the 
honey.  I  was  on  the  search  for  something  great  this 
day.  Keen-eyed  fish-eagles  and  bustards  poised  on  trees 
above  the  sinuous  Gombe  thought,  and  probably  with 
good  reason,  that  I  was  after  them ;  judging  by  the 
ready  flight  with  which  both  species  disappeared  as 
they  sighted  my  approach.  Ah,  no !  nothing  but 
hartebeest,  zebra,  giraffe,  eland,  and  buffalo  this  day ! 


338 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


After  following  the  Gombe's  course  for  about  a  milev 
delighting  my  eyes  with  long  looks  at  the  broad  and 
lengthy  reaches  of  water  to  which  I  was  so  long  a 
stranger,  I  came  upon  a  scene  which  delighted  the 
innermost  recesses  of  my  soul ;  five,  six,  seven,  eight 
ten  zebras  switching  their  beautiful  striped  bodies,  and 
biting  one  another,  within  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
yards.  The  scene  was  so  pretty,  so  romantic,  never  did 
I  so  thoroughly  realize  that  I  was  in  Central  Africa.  I 
felt  momentarily  proud  that  I  owned  such  a  vast  do- 
main, inhabited  with  such  noble  beasts.  Here  I  pos- 
sessed, within  reach  of  a  leaden  ball,  any  one  I  chose  of 
the  beautiful  animals,  the  pride  of  the  African  forests ! 
It  was  at  my  option  to  shoot  any  of  them !  Mine  they 
were  without  money  and  without  price  ;  yet,  knowing 
this,  twice  I  dropped  my  rifle,  loth  to  wound  the  royal 
beasts,  but — crack !  and  a  royal  one  was  on  his  back 
battling  the  air  with  his  legs.  Ah,  it  was  such  a  pity  ! 
but,  hasten,  draw  the  keen  sharp-edged  knife  across  the 
beautiful  stripes  which  fold  around  the  throat ;  and — 
what  an  ugly  gash  !  it  is  done,  and  I  have  a  superb 
animal  at  my  feet.  Hurrah  !  I  shall  taste  of  Ukonongo 
zebra  to-night. 

I  thought  a  spring-bok  and  zebra  enough  for  one 
day's  sport,  especially  after  a  long  march.  The  Gombe, 
a  long  stretch  of  deep  water,  winding  in  and  out  of  green 
groves,  calm,  placid,  with  lotus  leaves  lightly  resting 
on  its  surface,  all  pretty,  picturesque,  peaceful,  as  a 
summer's  dream,  looked  very  inviting  for  a  bath.  I 
sought  out  the  most  shady  spot  under  a  wide-spreading 
mimosa,  from  which  the  ground  sloped  smooth  as  a 
lawn,  to  the  still,  clear  water.  I  ventured  to  undress, 
and  had  already  stepped  in  to  my  ancles  in  the  water, 
and  had  brought  my  hands  together  for  a  glorious  dive, 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MR  ERA,  UKONONGO. 


339 


when  my  attention  was  attracted  by  an  enormously 
long  body  which  shot  into  view,  occupying  the  spot 
beneath  the  surface  that  I  was  about  to  explore  by  a 

header."  Great  heavens,  it  was  a  crocodile  !  I  sprang 
backward  instinctively,  and  this  proved  my  salvation, 
for  the  monster  turned  away  with  the  most  disappointed 
look,  and  I  was  left  to  congratulate  myself  upon  my 
narrow  escape  from  his  jaws,  and  to  register  a  vow 
never  to  be  tempted  again  by  the  treacherous  calm  of 
an  African  river. 

As  soon  as  I  had  dressed  I  turned  away  from  the 
now  repulsive  aspect  of  the  stream.  In  strolling 
through  the  jungle,  towards  my  camp,  I  detected  the 
forms  of  two  natives,  looking  sharply  about  them,  and, 
after  bidding  my  young  attendants  to  preserve  perfect 
quiet,  I  crept  on  towards  them,  and,  by  the  aid  of  a 
thick  clump  of  under-bush,  managed  to  arrive  within 
a  few  feet  of  the  natives  undetected.  Their  mere 
presence  in  the  immense  forest,  unexplained,  was  a 
cause  of  uneasiness  in  the  then  disturbed  state  of  the 
country,  and  my  intention  was  to  show  myself  suddenly 
to  them,  and  note  its  effect,  which,  if  it  betokened  any- 
thing hostile  to  the  Expedition,  could  without  difficulty 
be  settled  at  once,  with  the  aid  of  my  double-barreled 
smooth-bore. 

As  I  arrived  on  one  side  of  this  bush,  the  two  suspi- 
cious-looking natives  arrived  on  the  other  side,  and  we 
were  separated  by  only  a  few  feet.  I  made  a  bound, 
and  we  were  face  to  face.  The  natives  cast  a  glance 
at  the  sudden  figure  of  a  white  man,  and  seemed  pe- 
trified for  a  moment,  but  then,  recovering  themselves, 
they  shrieked  out,  "  Bana,  bana,  you  don't  know  us. 
We  are  Wakonongo,  who  came  to  your  camp  to  accom- 
pany you  to  Mrera,  and  we  are  looking  for  honey." 


340 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


"  Oh,  to  be  sure,  you  are  the  Wakonongo.  Yes — 
Yes.  Ah,  it  is  all  right  now,  I  thought  you  might  be 
Ruga- Ruga." 

So  the  two  parties,  instead  of  being  on  hostile  terms 
with  each  other,  burst  out  laughing.  The  Wakonongo 
enjoyed  it  very  much,  and  laughed  heartily  as  they 
proceeded  on  their  way  to  search  for  the  wild  honey. 
On  a  piece  of  bark  they  carried  a  little  fire  with  which 
they  smoked  the  bees  out  from  their  nest  in  the  great 
mtundu- trees. 

The  adventures  of  the  day  were  over ;  the  azure  of 
the  sky  had  changed  to  a  dead  grey ;  the  moon  was 
appearing  just  over  the  trees ;  the  water  of  the  Grombe 
was  like  a  silver  belt ;  hoarse  frogs  bellowed  their  notes 
loudly  by  the  margin  of  the  creek ;  the  fish-eagles 
uttered  their  dirge-like  cries  as  they  were  perched  high 
on  the  tallest  tree ;  elands  snorted  their  warning  to  the 
herds  in  the  forest;  stealthy  forms  of  the  carnivora 
stole  through  the  dark  woods  outside  of  our  camp. 
Within  the  high  inclosure  of  bush  and  thorn,  which  we 
had  raised  around  our  camp,  all  was  jollity,  laughter, 
and  radiant,  genial  comfort.  Around  every  camp-fire 
dark  forms  of  men  were  seen  squatted :  one  man  gnawed 
at  a  luscious  bone ;  another  sucked  the  rich  rnarrow  in 
a  zebra's  leg-bone ;  another  turned  the  stick,  garnished 
with  huge  kabobs,  to  the  bright  blaze ;  another  held  a 
large  rib  over  a  flame ;  there  were  others  busy  stirring 
industriously  great  black  potfuls  of  ugali,  and  watching 
anxiously  the  meat  simmering,  and  the  soup  bubbling, 
while  the  fire-light  flickered  and  danced  bravely,  and 
cast  a  bright  glow  over  the  naked  forms  of  the  men, 
and  gave  a  crimson  tinge  to  the  tall  tent  that  rose  in 
the  centre  of  the  camp,  like  a  temple  sacred  to  some 
mysterious  god ;  the  fires  cast  their  reflections  upon  trie 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MllERA,  UKONONGO. 


341 


massive  arms  of  the  trees,  as  they  branched  over  our 
camp,  and,  in  the  dark  gloom  of  their  foliage,  the  most 
fantastic  shadows  were  visible.  Altogether  it  was  a 
wild,  romantic,  and  impressive  scene.  But  little  recked 
my  men  for  shadows  and  moonlight,  for  crimson  tints, 
and  temple-like  tents — they  were  all  busy  relating  their 
various  experiences,  and  gorging  themselves  with  the 
rich  meats  our  guns  had  obtained  for  us.  One  was 
telling  how  he  had  stalked  a  wild  boar,  and  the  furious 
onset  the  wounded  beast  made  on  him,  causing  him  to 
drop  his  gun,  and  climb  a  tree,  and  the  terrible  grunt 
of  the  beast  he  well  remembered,  and  the  whole  welkin 
rang  with  the  peals  of  laughter  which  his  mimic  powers 
evoked.  Another  had  shot  a  buffalo-calf,  and  another 
had  bagged  a  hartebeest ;  the  Wakonongo  related 
their  laughable  rencontre  with  me  in  the  woods,  and 
were  lavish  in  their  description  of  the  stores  of  honey 
to  be  found  in  the  woods ;  and  all  this  time  Selim 
and  his  youthful  subs  were  trying  their  sharp  teeth 
on  the  meat  of  a  young  pig  which  one  of  the  hunters 
had  shot,  but  which  nobody  else  would  eat,  because 
of  the  Mohammedan  aversion  to  pig,  which  they  had 
acquired  during  their  transformation  from  negro 
savagery  to  the  useful  docility  of  the  Zanzibar  freed-man. 

We  halted  the  two  following  days,  and  made  frequent 
raids  on  the  herds  of  this  fine  country.  The  first  day  I 
was  fairly  successful  again  in  the  sport.  I  bagged  a 
couple  of  antelopes,  a  kudu  (A.  strepsiceros)  with  fine 
twisting  horns,  and  a  pallah-buck  (A.  mela?npus),  a 
reddish-brown  animal,  standing  about  three  and  a  half 
feet,  with  broad  posteriors.  I  might  have  succeeded  in 
getting  dozens  of  animals  had  I  any  of  those  accurate, 
heavy  rifles  manufactured  by  Lancaster,  O'Reilly,  or 
Blissett,  whose  every  shot  tells.     But  my  weapons, 


842 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


save  my  light  smooth-bore,  were  unfit  for  African  game. 
My  weapons  were  more  for  men.  With  the  Wincl tester 
rifle,  and  the  Starr's  carbine,  I  was  able  to  hit  anything 
within  two  hundred  yards,  but  the  animals,  though 
wounded,  invariably  managed  to  escape  the  knife,  until 
I  was  disgusted  with  the  pea-bullets.  What  is  wanted 
for  this  country  is  a  heavy  bore — No.  10  or  12  is  the 
real  bone-crusher — that  will  drop  every  animal  shot, 
in  its  tracks,  by  which  all  fatigue  and  disappointment 
are  avoided.  Several  times  during  these  two  days 
was  I  disappointed  after  most  laborious  stalking  and 
creeping  along  the  ground.  Once  I  came  suddenly 
upon  an  eland  while  I  had  a  Winchester  rifle  in  my 
hand — the  eland  and  myself  mutually  astonished — at  not 
more  than  twenty -five  yards  apart,  I  fired  at  its  chest, 
and  the  bullet,  true  to  its  aim,  sped  far  into  the  internal 
parts,  and  the  blood  spouted  from  the  wound  :  in  a  few 
minutes  he  was  far  away,  and  I  was  too  much  disap- 
pointed to  follow  him.  All  love  of  the  chase  seemed  to 
be  dying  away  before  these  several  mishaps.  What 
were  two  antelopes  for  one  day's  sport  to  the  thousands 
that  browsed  over  the  plain  ? 

The  animals  taken  to  camp  during  our  three  days' 
sport  were  two  buffaloes,  two  wild  boar,  three  hartebeest, 
one  zebra,  and  one  pallah  ;  besides  which,  were  shot 
eight  guinea-fowls,  three  florican,  two  fish-eagles,  one 
pelican,  and  one  of  the  men  caught  a  couple  of  large 
silurus  fish.  In  the  meantime  the  people  had  cut,  sliced, 
and  dried  this  bounteous  store  of  meat  for  our  transit 
through  the  long  wilderness  before  us. 

Saturday  the  7th  day  of  October,  we  broke  up  camp, 
to  the  great  regret  of  the  meat-loving,  gormandizing 
Wangwana.  They  delegated  Bombay  early  in  the 
morning  to  speak  to  me,  and  entreat  of  me  to  stop 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MB  ERA,  UKOXONGO. 


343 


one  day  longer.  It  was  ever  the  case ;  they  had  always 
an  unconquerable  aversion  to  work,  when  in  presence  of 
meat.  Bombay  was  well  scolded  for  bearing  any  such 
request  to  me  after  two  days'  rest,  during  which  time 
they  had  been  filled  to  repletion  of  meat.  And  Bombay 
was  by  no  means  in  the  best  of  humor,  flesh-pots  full 
of  meat  were  more  to  his  taste  than  a  constant  tramping, 
and  its  consequent  fatigues.  I  saw  his  face  settle  into 
sulky  ugliness,  and  his  great  nether  lip  hanging  down 
limp,  which  meant  as  if  expressed  in  so  many  words, 
"  Well,  get  them  to  move  yourself,  you  wicked  hard 
man !    I  shall  not  help  you." 

An  ominous  silence  followed  my  order  to  the  kiran- 
gozi  to  sound  the  horn,  and  the  usual  singing  and 
chanting  were  not  heard.  The  men  turned  sullenly 
to  their  bales,  and  Asmani,  the  gigantic  guide,  our  fundi, 
was  heard  grumblingly  to  say  he  was  sorry  he  had  en- 
gaged to  guide  me  to  the  Tanganika.  However,  they 
started,  though  reluctantly.  I  stayed  behind  with  my 
gunbearers,  to  drive  the  stragglers  on.  In  about  half  an 
hour  I  sighted  the  caravan  at  a  dead  stop,  with  the 
bales  thrown  on  the  ground,  and  the  men  standing  in 
groups  conversing  angrily  and  excitedly. 

Taking  my  double-barrel  gun  from  Selim's  shoulder, 
I  selected  a  dozen  charges  of  buck-shot,  and  slipping 
two  of  them  into  the  barrels,  and  adjusting  my  revolvers 
in  order  for  handy  work,  I  walked  on  towards  them. 
I  noticed  that  the  men  seized  their  guns,  as  I  advanced. 
When  within  thirty  yards  of  the  groups,  I  discovered 
the  heads  of  two  men  appear  above  an  anthill  on  my 
left,  with  the  barrels  of  their  guns  carelessly  pointed 
toward  the  road. 

I  halted,  threw  the  barrel  of  my  gun  into  the  hollow 
of  the  left  hand,  and  then,  taking  a  deliberate  aim  at 


344 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


them,  threatened  to  blow  their  heads  off  if  they 
did  not  come  forward  to  talk  to  me.  These  two  men 
were,  gigantic  Asmani  and  his  sworn  companion 
Mabruki,  the  guides  of  Sheikh  bin  Nasib.  As  it  was 
dangerous  not  to  comply  with  such  an  order,  they 
presently  came,  but,  keeping  my  eye  on  Asmani,  I  saw 
him  move  his  fingers  to  the  trigger  of  his  gun,  and 
bring  his  gun  to  a  "  ready."  Again  I  lifted  my  gun, 
and  threatened  him  with  instant  death,  if  he  did  not 
drop  his  gun. 

Asmani  came  on  in  a  sidelong  way  with  a  smirking 
smile  on  his  face,  but  in  his  eyes  shone  the  lurid  light 
of  murder,  as  plainly  as  ever  it  shone  in  a  villain's 
eyes.  Mabruki  sneaked  to  my  rear,  deliberately 
putting  powder  in  the  pan  of  his  musket,  but  sweeping 
the  gun  sharply  round,  I  planted  the  muzzle  of  it  at 
about  two  feet  from  his  wicked-looking  face,  and 
ordered  him  to  drop  his  gun  instantly.  He  let  it  fall 
from  his  hand  quickly,  and  giving  him  a  vigorous 
poke  in  the  breast  with  my  gun,  which  sent  him 
reeling  away  a  few  feet  from  me,  I  faced  round  to 
Asmani,  and  ordered  him  to  put  his  gun  down,  accom- 
panying it  with  a  nervous  movement  of  my  gun, 
pressing  gently  on  the  trigger  at  the  same  time.  Never 
was  a  man  nearer  his  death  than  was  Asmani  during 
those  few  moments.  I  was  reluctant  to  shed  his  blood, 
and  I  was  willing  to  try  all  possible  means  to  avoid 
doing  so ;  but  if  I  did  not  succeed  in  cowing  this 
ruffian,  authority  was  at  an  end.  The  truth  was,  they 
feared  to  proceed  further  on  the  road,  and  the  only 
possible  way  of  inducing  them  to  move  was  by  an 
overpowering  force,  and  exercise  of  my  power  and 
will  in  this  instance,  even  though  he  might  pay  the 
penalty  of  his  disobedience  with  death.     As  I  was 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MR  ERA,  UK  ON  ON  GO. 


345 


beginning  to  feel  that  Asmani  had  passed  his  last 
moment  on  earth,  as  he  was  lifting  his  gun  to  his 
shoulder,  a  form  came  up  from  behind  him,  and  swept 
his  gun  aside  with  an  impatient,  nervous  movement,  and 
I  heard  Mabruki  Speke  say  in  horror-struck  accents  : 

"  Man,  how  dare  you  point  your  gun  at  the  master?" 
Mabruki  then  threw  himself  at  my  feet,  and  en- 
deavoured to  kiss  them  and  entreated  me  not  to  punish 
him.  "  It  was  all  over  now,"  he  said  ;  "  there  would  be 
no  more  quarreling,  they  would  all  go  to  the  Tanga- 
nika,  without  any  more  noise ;  and  Inshallah  ! "  said 
he,  "we  shall  find  the  old  Musungu  at  Ujiji." 

"  Speak,  men,  freedmen,  shall  we  not  ? — shall  we  not 
go  to  the  Tanganika  without  any  more  trouble  ?  tell 
the  master  with  one  voice." 

"  Ay  Wallah !  Ay  Wallah  !  Bana  yango  !  Hamuna 
manneno  mgini ! "  which  literally  translated  means, 
"Yes  by  God  !  Yes  by  God  !  my  master  !  There  are  no 
other  words,"  said  each  man  loudly. 

"  Ask  the  master's  pardon,  man,  or  go  thy  way," 
said  Mabruki  peremptorily,  to  Asmani :  which  Asmani 
did,  to  the  gratification  of  us  all. 

It  remained  for  me  only  to  extend  a  general  pardon 
to  all,  except  to  Bombay  and  Ambari,  the  instigators 
of  the  mutiny,  which  was  now  happily  quelled.  For 
Bombay  could  have  by  a  word,  as  my  captain,  nipped 
all  manifestation  of  bad  temper  at  the  outset,  had  he 
been  so  disposed.  But  no,  Bombay  was  more  averse 
to  marching  than  the  cowardliest  of  his  fellows,  not 
because  he  was  cowardly,  but  because  he  loved  in- 
dolence, and  made  a  god  of  his  belly.  So  snatching  up 
a  spear,  I  laid  its  staff  vigorously  on  his  shoulders,  and 
then  sprang  upon  Ambari,  whose  mocking  face  soon 
underwent   a    remarkable  transformation,  and  then 


346 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


clapped  them  both  in  chains,  with  a  threat  that  they 
would  be  kept  chained  until  they  knew  how  to  ask  my 
pardon ;  and  Asmani  and  Mabruki  were  told  to  be 
cautious  not  to  exhibit  their  ugly  tempers  any  more, 
lest  they  might  taste  the  death  they  had  fortunately 
escaped. 

Again  the  word  was  given  to  march,  and  each  man, 
with  astonishing  alacrity,  seized  his  load,  and  filed  off 
quickly  out  of  sight,  Bombay  and  Ambari  in  the  rear 
in  chains,  with  Kingaru  and  Asmani,  the  deserters, 
weighted  with  the  heaviest  loads. 

We  had  barely  travelled  an  hour  from  the  Gombe 
before  Bombay  and  Ambari  in  trembling  accents 
implored  my  pardon,  which  I  permitted  them  to  con- 
tinue for  half-an-hour  longer,  when  I  finally  relented, 
releasing  them  both  from  their  chains,  and  restoring  the 
former  to  his  full  honors  as  captain. 

While  on  this  subject,  I  may  as  well  give  here  a 
sketch  of  each  of  the  principal  men  whose  names  must 
often  appear  in  the  following  chapters.  According  to 
rank,  they  consist  of  Bombay,  Mabruki  Speke,  Asmani 
the  guide,  Chowpereh,  Ulimengo,  Khamisi,  Ambari, 
Jumah,  Ferajji  the  cook,  Maganga  the  Mnyamwezi, 
Selim  the  Arab  boy,  and  youthful  Kalulu  a  gunbearer. 

Bombay  has  received  an  excellent  character  from 
Burton,  Speke,  and  Grant,  but  I  am  sorry  to  say  he 
will  never  be  able  to  have  it  endorsed  by  me.  "  In- 
carnation of  honesty "  Burton  grandly  terms  him. 
The  truth  is,  though,  that  Bombay  was  neither  very 
honest  nor  very  dishonest,  i.e.,  he  did  not  venture  to 
steal  much.  He  sometimes  contrived  cunningly,  as  he 
distributed  the  meat,  to  hide  a  very  large  share  for  his 
own  use.  This  peccadillo  of  his  did  not  disturb  me 
much ;  he  deserved  as  captain  a  larger  share  than  the 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MR  ERA,  UKONONGO. 


347 


others.  He  required  to  be  closely  watched,  and  when 
aware  that  this  was  the  case,  he  seld  m  ventured  to 
appropriate  more  cloth  than  I  would  have  freely  given 
him,  had  he  asked  for  it.  As  a  personal  servant,  or 
valet,  he  would  have  been  unexceptionable,  but  as  a 
captain  or  jemadar  over  his  fellows,  he  was  out  of  his 
proper  sphere.  It  was  too  much  brain-work,  and  was 
too  productive  of  anxiety  to  keep  him  in  order.  At 
times  he  was  helplessly  imbecile  in  his  movements, 
forgot  every  order  the  moment  it  was  given  him, 
consistently  broke  or  lost  some  valuable  article,  was 
fond  of  argument,  and  addicted  to  bluster.  He  thinks 
Hajji  Abdullah  one  of  the  wickedest  white  men  born, 
because  he  saw  him  pick  up  men's  skulls  and  put  them 
in  sacks,  as  if  he  was  about  to  prepare  a  horrible 
medicine  with  them.  He  wanted  to  know  whether  his 
former  master  had  written  down  all  he  himself  did, 
and  when  told  that  Burton  had  not  said  anything,  in 
his  books  upon  the  Lake  Regions,  upon  collecting 
skulls  at  Kilwa,  thought  I  would  be  doing  a  good  work 
if  I  published  this  important  fact.*  Bombay  intends  to 
make  a  pilgrimage  to  visit  Speke's  grave  some  day. 

Mabruki,  "Ras-bukra  Mabruki,"  Bull-headed  Mabruki, 
as  Burton  calls  him,  Mabruki  Speke,  as  he  was  called  by 
us  in  distinction  from  other  Mabrukis,  is  a  very  much 
abused  man  in  my  opinion.  Burton  and  Mabruki  had 
glorious  quarrels  with  each  other,  so  the  latter  tells  me, 
and  if  he  is  to  be  believed  his  master  did  not  come  off 
always  best.  The  great  traveller  used  to  call  to  him  in 
Arabic,  and  abuse  him  in  the  choice  vocabulary  of  El 
Scham.    "  Ji'ib  el  haleeb  Bil-alek,"  Mabruki  says,  used 

*  I  find  upon  returning  to  England,  that  Capt.  Burton  has  informed  the 
world  of  this  "  wicked  and  abominable  deed,"  in  his  book  upon  Zanzibar, 
and  that  the  interesting  collection  may  be  seen  at  the  Eoyal  College 
Surgeons,  London. 


348 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  be  told  him  often ;  which  means,  "  Bring  the  milk, 

you  ."    Well,  I  am  sure  I  am  not  sufficiently 

up  in  Syrian  Arabic  to  be  able  to  translate  the  last 
word.  It  is  something  awful,  I  have  no  doubt,  because 
it  still  exercises  Mabruki  considerably.  Mabruki  says 
he  would  like  to  have  a  stand-up  fight  with  his  former 
master,  but  I  do  not  think  he  would  hurt  him  very 
much,  after  all.  But  Mabruki,  though  he  is  stupid,  is 
faithful.  He  is  entirely  out  of  his  element  as  valet,  he 
might  as  well  be  clerk.  As  a  watchman  he  is  in  valuable, 
as  a  second  captain  or  fundi,  whose  duty  it  is  to  bring 
up  stragglers,  he  is  superexcellent.  He  is  ugly,  and 
vain,  but  he  is  no  coward. 

Asmani  the  guide  is  a  large  fellow,  standing  over  six 
feet,  with  the  neck  and  shoulders  of  a  Hercules. 
Besides  being  guide,  he  is  a  fundi,  sometimes  called 
Fundi  Asmani,  or  hunter.  A  very  superstitious  man,  who 
takes  great  care  of  his  gun,  and  talismanic  plaited  cord, 
which  he  has  dipped  in  the  blood  of  all  the  animals  he  has 
ever  shot.  He  is  afraid  of  lions,  and  will  never  venture 
out  where  lions  are  known  to  be.  All  other  animals  he 
regards  as  game,  and  is  indefatigable  in  their  pursuit. 
He  is  seldom  seen  without  a  smile  on  his  face,  not  a 
kindly  kind,  but  an  apologetic,  a  treacherous  smile.  He 
could  draw  a  knife  across  a  man's  throat  and  still  smile. 

Chowpereh  is  a  sturdy  short  man  of  thirty  or  there- 
abouts ;  very  good-natured,  and  humorous.  When 
Chowpereh  speaks  in  his  dry  Mark  Twain  style,  the 
whole  camp  laughs.  I  never  quarrel  with  Chowpereh, 
never  did  quarrel  with  him.  A  kind  word  given  to 
Chowpereh  is  sure  to  be  reciprocated  with  a  good 
deed.  He  is  the  strongest,  the  healthiest,  the  amiablest, 
the  faithfullest  of  all.  He  is  the  embodiment  of  a  good 
follower. 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MBERA,  UKONONGO. 


349 


Khamisi  is  a  neat,  cleanly  boy  of  twenty  or  there- 
abouts, active,  loud-voiced,  a  boaster,  and  the  cowardliest 
of  the  cowardly.  He  will  steal  at  every  opportunity. 
He  clings  to  his  gun  most  affectionately  ;  is  always 
excessively  anxious  if  a  screw  gets  loose,  or  if  a  flint 
will  not  strike  fire,  yet  I  doubt  that  he  would  be  able  to 
fire  his  gun  at  an  enemy  from  excessive  trembling. 
Khamisi  would  rather  trust  his  safety  to  his  feet,  which 
are  small,  and  well  shaped. 

Ambari  is  a  man  of  about  forty.  He  is  one  of  the 
"Faithfuls"  of  Speke,  and  one  of  my  Faithfuls.  He 
would  not  run  away  from  me  except  when  in  the 
presence  of  an  enemy,  and  imminent  personal  danger. 
He  is  clever  in  his  way,  but  is  not  sufficiently  clever  to 
enact  the  part  of  captain,  could  take  charge  of  a  small 
party,  and  give  a  very  good  account  of  them.  Is  lazy, 
and  an  admirer  of  good  living,  abhors  marching,  unless 
he  has  nothing  to  carry  but  his  gun. 

Jumah  is  the  best  abused  man  of  the  party.  Not  by 
me,  however,  for  I  very  seldom  quarrel  with  him, 
because  he  has  old-womanish  ways  with  him,  and  in 
his  old-womanish  ways  is  disposed  to  do  the  best  he  can 
for  me,  though  he  will  not  carry  a  pound  in  weight 
without  groaning  terribly  at  his  hard  fate.  To  me  lie 
is  sentimental  and  pathetic ;  to  the  unimportant  members 
of  the  caravan  he  is  stern  and  uncompromising.  But 
the  truth  is,  that  I  could  well  have  dispensed  with 
Jumah's  presence:  he  was  one  of  the  incorrigible 
inutiles,  eating  far  more  than  he  was  worth ;  besides 
being  an  excessively  grumbling  and  querulous  fool. 

Ulimengo,  a  strong  stalwart  fellow  of  thirty,  was  the 
maddest  and  most  hare-brained  of  my  party.  Though 
an  arrant  coward,  he  was  a  consummate  boaster.  But 
though  a  devotee  of  pleasure  and  fun,  he  was  not  averse 


350 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


from  work.  With  one  hundred  men  such  as  he,  I  could 
1  ravel  through  Africa  provided  there  was  no  fighting 
to  do.  It  will  he  remembered  that  he  was  the  martial 
coryphaeus  who  led  my  little  army  to  war  against 
Mirambo,  chanting  the  battle-song  of  the  Wangwana ; 
and  that  I  stated,  that  when  the  retreat  was  determined 
upon,  he  was  the  first  of  my  party  to  reach  the  strong- 
hold of  Mfuto.  He  is  a  swift  runner,  and  a  fair 
hunter.  I  have  been  indebted  to  him  on  several 
occasions,  for  a  welcome  addition  to  my  larder. 

Ferajji,  a  former  dishwasher  to  Speke,  was  my  cook. 
He  was  promoted  to  this  office  upon  the  defection  of 
Bunder  Salaam,  and  the  extreme  non-fitness  of  Abdul 
Kader.  For  cleaning  dishes,  the  first  corn-cob,  green 
twig,  a  bunch  of  leaves  or  grass,  answered  Ferajji's 
purposes  in  the  absence  of  a  cloth.  If  I  ordered  a  plate, 
and  I  pointed  out  a  black,  greasy,  sooty,  thumbmark 
to  him,  a  rub  of  a  finger  Ferajji  thought  sufficient  to 
remove  all  objections.  If  I  hinted  that  a  spoon  was 
rather  dirty,  Ferajji  fancied  that  with  a  little  saliva, 
and  a  rub  of  his  greasy  loin  cloth,  the  most  fastidious 
ought  to  be  satisfied.  Every  pound  of  meat,  and  every 
three  spoonfuls  of  musk  or  porridge  I  ate  in  Africa, 
contained  at  least  ten  grains  of  sand.  Ferajji  was 
considerably  exercised  at  a  threat  I  made  to  him  that 
on  arrival  at  Zanzibar,  I  would  get  the  great  English 
doctor  there  to  open  my  stomach,  and  count  every  grain 
of  sand  found  in  it,  for  each  grain  of  which  Ferajji 
should  be  charged  one  dollar.  The  consciousness  that 
my  stomach  must  contain  a  large  number,  for  which 
the  forfeits  w^ould  be  heavy,  made  him  feel  very  sad  at 
times.  Otherwise,  Ferajji  was  a  good  cook,  most 
industrious,  if  not  accomplished.  He  could  produce  a 
cup  of  tea,  and  three  or  four  hot  pancakes,  within  ten 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MBERA,  UKONONGO. 


351 


minutes  after  a  halt  was  ordered,  for  which  I  was  most 
grateful,  as  I  was  almost  always  hungry  after  a  long 
march.  Ferajji  sided  with  Baraka  against  Bombay 
in  Unyoro,  and  when  Speke  took  Bombay's  side  of  the 
question,  Ferajji,  out  of  love  for  Baraka,  left  Speke's 
service,  and  so  forfeited  his  pay. 

Maganga  was  a  Mnyamwezi,  a  native  of  Mkwenkwe, 
a  strong,  faithful  servant,  an  excellent  pagazi,  with  an 
irreproachable  temper.  He  it  was  who  at  all  times, 
on  the  march,  started  the  wildly  exuberant  song  of  the 
Wanyamwezi  porters,  which,  no  matter  how  hot  the 
sun,  or  how  long  the  march,  was  sure  to  produce 
gaiety  and  animation  among  the  people.  At  such 
times  all  hands  sang,  sang  with  voices  that  could 
be  heard  miles  away,  which  made  the  great  forests 
ring  with  the  sounds,  which  startled  every  animal  big 
or  little,  for  miles  around.  On  approaching  a  village 
the  temper  of  whose  people  might  be  hostile  to  us, 
Maganga  would  commence  his  song,  with  the  entire 
party  joining  in  the  chorus,  by  which  mode  we  knew 
whether  the  natives  were  disposed  to  be  friendly  or 
hostile.  If  hostile,  or  timid,  the  gates  would  at  once 
be  closed,  and  dark  faces  would  scowl  at  us  from  the 
interior  ;  if  friendly,  they  rushed  outside  of  their  gates 
to  welcome  us,  or  to  exchange  friendly  remarks. 

The  most  important  member  of  the  Expedition,  next 
to  myself,  was  Selim,  the  young  Arab  boy,  a  Christian 
from  Jerusalem.  He  was  educated  by  good  Bishop 
Gobat,  and  if  all  the  Arab  boys  of  his  school  turn  out 
as  well  as  Selim,  then  Bishop  Gobat  deserves  the 
highest  praise  for  his  noble  work.  Without  Selim  1 
must  have  perished  at  Mfuto ;  without  Selim  I  could 
not  have  so  well  obtained  the  friendship  of  the  chief 
Arabs  in  the  interior ;  neither  could  I  have  well  com- 


352 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


municated  with  them,  for  though  I  understood  Aiabic, 
I  could  not  speak  it.  I  employed  this  boy  in  January 
1870 ;  since  which  time  he  had  travelled  with  me  through 
Southern  Russia,  the  Caucasus,  and  Persia.  In  my 
service  he  was  honest  and  faithful,  if  called  to  the 
death ;  he  was  without  fear,  and  without  reproach ; 
and  I  feel  while  recording  these  praises  of  him  that 
they  are  totally  insufficient  to  convey  my  sense  of  the 
services  he  rendered  to  me. 

I  have  already  related  how  Kalulu  came  to  be  in  my 
service,  and  how  he  came  to  bear  his  present  name.  I 
soon  found  how  apt  and  quick  he  was  to  learn,  in 
consequence  of  which,  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
personal  attendant.  Even  Selim  could  not  vie  with 
Kalulu  in  promptness  and  celerity,  or  in  guessing  my 
wants  at  the  table.  His  little  black  eyes  were  con- 
stantly roving  over  the  dishes,  studying  out  the 
problem  of  what  was  further  necessary,  or  had  become 
unnecessary. 

We  arrived  at  the  Ziwani,  in  about  4  h.  30  m. 
from  the  time  of  our  quitting  the  scene  which 
had  well-nigh  witnessed  a  sanguinary  conflict.  The 
Ziwani,  or  pool,  contained  no  water,  not  a  drop, 
until  the  parched  tongues  of  my  people  warned  them 
that  they  must  proceed  to  excavate  for  water.  This 
excavation  was  performed  (by  means  of  strong  hard 
sticks  sharply  pointed)  in  the  dry  hard-caked  bottom. 
After  digging  to  a  depth  of  six  feet  their  labours  were 
rewarded  with  the  sight  of  a  few  drops  of  muddy 
liquid  percolating  through  the  sides,  which  were 
eagerly  swallowed  to  relieve  their  raging  thirst.  Some 
voluntarily  started  with  buckets,  gourds,  and  canteens 
south  to  a  deserted  clearing  called  the  "  Tongoni "  in 
Ukamba,  and  in  about  three  hours  returned  with  a 


SELIM  THE  INTERPRETER. 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MRERA,  UE0X0NO0. 


353 


plentiful  supply  for  immediate  use,  of  good  and  clear 
water. 

In  1  h.  30  m.  we  arrived  at  this  Tongoni,  or  de- 
serted clearing  of  the  Wakamba.  Here  were  three  or 
four  villages  burnt,  and  an  extensive  clearing  desolate, 
the  work  of  the  Wa-Ruga-Ruga  of  Mirambo.  Those 
of  the  inhabitants  who  were  left,  after  the  spoliation 
and  complete  destruction  of  the  nourishing  settlement, 
emigrated  westerly  to  Ugara.  A  large  herd  of  buffalo 
now  slake  their  thirst  at  the  pool  which  supplied  the 
villages  of  U kamba  with  water. 

Great  masses  of  iron  haematite  cropped  up  above  the 
surface  in  these  forests.  Wild  fru  !  began  to  be  abun- 
dant ;  the  wood-apple  and  tamarind  and  a  small  plum- 
like fruit,  furnished  us  with  many  an  agreeable  repast. 

The  honey-bird  is  very  frequent  in  these  forests 
of  Ukonongo.  Its  cry  is  a  loud,  quick  chirrup. 
The  Wakonongo  understand  how  to  avail  themselves 
of  its  guidance  to  the  sweet  treasure  of  honey,  which 
the  wild  bees  have  stored  in  the  cleft  of  some  great  tree. 
Daily,  the  Wakonongo  who  had  joined  our  caravan 
brought  me  immense  cakes  of  honey-comb  containing 
delicious  white  and  red  honey.  The  red  honey-comb 
generally  contains  large  numbers  of  dead  bees,  but  our 
exceedingly  gluttonous  people  thought  little  of  these. 
They  not  only  ate  the  honey-bees,  but  they  also  ate 
a  good  deal  of  the  wax. 

As  soon  as  the  honey-bird  descries  the  traveller,  he 
immediately  utters  a  series  of  wild,  excited  cries,  hops 
about  from  twig  to  twig,  and  from  branch  to  branch, 
then  hops  to  another  tree,  incessantly  repeating  his 
chirruping  call.  The  native,  understanding  the  nature 
of  the  little  bird,  unhesitatingly  follows  him  ;  but  per- 
haps his  s.:eps  are  too  slow  for  the  impatient  caller, 

2  A 


354 


HO W  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


upon  which  he  flies  back,  urging  with  louder,  more 
impatient  cries,  to  hasten,  and  then  darts  swiftly  for- 
ward, as  if  he  would  show  how  quickly  he  could  go  to 
the  honey-store,  until  at  last  the  treasure  is  reached, 
the  native  has  applied  fire  to  the  bees'  nest,  and  secured 
the  honey,  while  the  little  bird  preens  himself,  and 
chirrups  in  triumphant  notes,  as  if  he  were  informing 
the  biped  that  without  his  aid  he  never  could  have 
found  the  honey. 

Buffalo  gnats  and  tsetse  were  very  troublesome  on 
this  march,  owing  to  the  numerous  herds  of  game  in 
the  vicinity. 

On  the  9th  of  October  we  made  a  long  march  in  a 
southerly  direction,  and  formed  our  camp  in  the  centre 
of  a  splendid  grove  of  trees.  The  water  was  very 
scarce  on  the  road.  The  Wamrima  and  Wanyamwezi 
are  not  long  able  to  withstand  thirst.  When  water 
is  plentiful  they  slake  their  thirst  at  every  stream  and 
pool ;  when  it  is  scarce,  as  it  is  here  and  in  the  deserts 
of  Marenga  and  Magunda  Mkali,  long  afternoon- 
marches  are  made ;  the  men  previously,  however,  filling 
their  gourds,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  reach  the  water 
early  next  morning.  Selim  was  never  able  to  endure 
thirst.  It  mattered  not,  how  much  of  the  precious 
liquid  he  carried,  he  generally  drank  it  all  before 
reaching  camp,  and  he  consequently  suffered  during 
the  night.  Besides  this,  he  endangered  his  life 
by  quaffing  from  every  muddy  pool ;  and  on  this  day 
he  began  to  complain  that  he  discharged  blood,  which 
I  took  to  be  an  incipient  stage  of  dysentery. 

During  these  marches,  ever  since  quitting  Ugunda, 
a  favourite  topic  at  the  camp-fires  were  the  Wa-Ruga- 
Ruga,  and  their  atrocities,  and  a  possible  encounter 
that  we  might  have  with  these  bold  rovers  of  the  forest 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MREBA,  UKONONGO. 


555 


I  verily  believe  that  a  sudden  onset  of  half  a  dozen  of 
Mirambo's  people  would  have  set  the  whole  caravan 
a-running. 

We  reached  Marefu  the  next  day,  after  a  short  three 
hours'  march.  We  there  found  an  embassy  sent  by  the 
Arabs  of  Unyanyembe,  to  the  Southern  Watuta,  bear- 
ing presents  of  several  bales,  in  charge  of  Hassan  the 
Mseguhha.  This  valiant  leader  and  diplomatist  had 
halted  here  some  ten  days,  because  of  wars,  and  ru- 
mours of  wars  in  his  front.  It  was  said  that  Mbogo, 
Sultan  of  Mbogo  in  Ukonongo,  was  at  war  with  the 
brother  of  Manwa  Sera,  and  as  Mbogo  was  a  large 
district  of  Ukonongo,  only  two  days'  march  from  Marefu, 
fear  of  being  involved  in  it  was  deterring  old  Hassan 
from  proceeding.  He  advised  me  also  not  to  proceed, 
as  it  was  impossible  to  be  able  to  do  so  without  being 
embroiled  in  the  conflict.  I  informed  him  that  I 
intended  to  proceed  on  my  way,  and  take  my  chances, 
and  graciously  offered  him  my  escort  as  far  as  the 
frontier  of  Ufipa,  from  which  he  could  easily  and 
safely  continue  on  his  way  to  the  Watuta,  but  he 
declined  it. 

We  had  now  been  travelling  fourteen  days  in  a 
south-westerly  direction,  having  made  a  little  more 
than  one  degree  of  latitude.  I  had  intended  to  have 
gone  a  little  further  south,  because  it  was  such  a  good 
road,  also  since  by  going  further  south  we  should  have 
laboured  under  no  fear  of  meeting  Mirambo ;  but  the 
report  of  this  war  in  our  front,  only  two  days  off,  com- 
pelled me,  in  the  interest  of  the  Expedition,  to  strike 
across  towards  the  Tanganika,  on  a  west-by-north 
course  through  the  forest,  travelling,  when  it  was  advan- 
tageous, along  elephant  tracks  and  local  paths.  This 
new  plan  was  adopted  after  consulting  with  Asmani. 


356 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  guide.  We  were  now  in  Ukonongo,  having  entered 
this  district  when  we  crossed  the  Gombe  creek. 

The  next  day  after  arriving  at  Marefu  we  plunged 
westward,  in  view  of  the  villagers,  and  the  Arab 
ambassador,  who  kept  repeating  until  the  last  moment 
that  we  should  "  certainly  catch  it." 

We  marched  eight  hours  through  a  forest,  where  the 
forest  peach,  or  the  "  mbembu,"  is  abundant.  The  tree 
that  bears  this  fruit  is  very  like  a  pear-tree,  and  is 
very  productive.  I  saw  one  tree,  upon  which  I  esti- 
mated there  were  at  least  six  or  seven  bushels.  I  ate 
numbers  of  the  peaches  on  this  day.  So  long  as  this 
fruit  can  be  procured,  a  traveller  in  these  regions  need 
notfear  s  tarvation. 

At  the  base  of  a  graceful  hilly  cone  we  found  a 
village  called  Utende,  the  inhabitants  of  which  were  in 
a  state  of  great  alarm,  as  we  suddenly  appeared  on  the 
ridge  above  them.  Diplomacy  urged  me  to  send  forward 
a  present  of  one  doti  to  the  Sultan,  who,  however,  would 
not  accept  it,  because  he  happened  to  be  drunk  with 
pombe,  and  was  therefore  disposed  to  be  insolent. 
Upon  being  informed  that  he  would  refuse  any  present, 
unless  he  received  four  more  cloths,  I  immediately 
ordered  a  strong  boma  to  be  constructed  on  the  summit 
of  a  little  hill,  near  enough  to  a  plentiful  supply  of 
water,  and  quietly  again  packed  up  the  present  in  the 
bale.  I  occupied  a  strategically  chosen  position,  as  I 
could  have  swept  the  face  of  the  hill,  and  the  entire 
space  between  its  base  and  the  village  of  the  Watende. 
Watchmen  were  kept  on  the  look-out  all  night;  but 
we  were  fortunately  not  troubled  until  the  morning, 
when  a  delegation  of  the  principal  men  came  to  ask 
if  I  intended  to  depart  without  having  made  a  present 
to  the  chief.    I  replied  to  them  that  I  did  not  intend 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MBEItA,  UKONONGO. 


357 


passing  through  any  country  without  making  friends 
with  the  chiefs  ;  and  if  their  chief  would  accept  a  good 
cloth  from  me,  I  would  freely  give  it  to  him.  Though 
they  demurred  at  the  amount  of  the  present  at  first, 
the  difference  between  us  was  finally  ended  by  my 
adding  a  fundo  of  red  beads — sami-sami — for  the  chief's 
wife. 

From  the  hill  and  ridge  of  Utende  sloped  a  forest 
for  miles  and  miles  westerly,  which  was  terminated  by 
a  grand  and  smooth-topped  ridge  rising  500  or  600  feel 
above  the  plain. 

A  four  hours'  march,  on  the  12th  of  October,  brought 
us  to  a  nullah  similar  to  the  Gombe,  which,  during  the 
wet  season,  flows  to  the  Gombe  River,  and  thence  into 
the  Malagarazi  River. 

A  little  before  camping  we  saw  a  herd  of  nimba,  or 
pallah ;  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  shoot  one,  which  was 
a  welcome  addition  to  our  fast  diminishing  store  of 
dried  meats,  prepared  in  our  camp  on  the  Gombe.  By 
the  quantity  of  bouse  de  vache,  we  judged  buffaloes  were 
plentiful  here,  as  well  as  elephant  and  rhinoceros.  The 
feathered  species  were  well  represented  by  ibis,  fish- 
eagles,  pelicans,  storks,  cranes,  several  snowy  spoon- 
bills, and  flamingoes. 

From  the  nullah,  or  mtoni,  we  proceeded  to  Mwaru, 
the  principal  village  of  the  district  of  Mwaru,  the  chief 
of  which  is  Ka-mirambo.  Our  march  lay  over  deso- 
lated clearings  once  occupied  by  Ka-mirambo's  people, 
but  who  were  driven  away  by  Mkasiwa  some  ten  years 
ago,  during  his  warfare  against  Manwa  Sera.  Niongo, 
the  brother  of  the  latter,  now  waging  war  against 
Mbogo,  had  passed  through  Mwaru  the  day  before  we 
arrived,  after  being  defeated  by  his  enemy. 

The  hilly  ridge  that  bounded  the  westward  horizon, 


353 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


visible  from  Utende,  was  surmounted  on  this  day.  The 
western  slope  trends  south-west,  and  is  drained  by  the 
River  Mrera,  which  empties  into  the  Malagarazi  River. 
We  perceived  the  influence  of  the  Tanganika,  even 
here,  though  we  were  yet  twelve  or  fifteen  marches 
from  the  lake.  The  jungles  increased  in  density,  and  the 
grasses  became  enormously  tall ;  these  points  reminded 
us  of  the  maritime  districts  of  Ukwere  and  Ukami. 

We  heard  from  a  caravan  at  this  place,  just  come 
from  Ufipa,  that  a  white  man  was  reported  to  be  in 
"Urua,"  which  I  supposed  to  mean  Livingstone. 

Upon  leaving  Mwaru  we  entered  the  district  of 
Mrera,  a  chief  who  once  possessed  great  power  and 
influence  over  this  region.  Wars,  however,  have 
limited  his  possessions  to  three  or  four  villages  snugly 
embosomed  within  a  jungle,  whose  outer  rim  is  so 
dense  that  it  serves  like  a  stone  wall  to  repel  invaders. 
There  were  nine  bleached  skulls,  stuck  on  the  top  of  as 
many  poles,  before  the  principal  gate  of  entrance, 
which  told  us  of  existing  feuds  between  the  Wako- 
nongo  and  the  Wazavira.  This  latter  tribe  dwelt  in  a 
country  a  few  inarches  west  of  us ;  whose  territory  we 
should  have  to  avoid,  unless  we  sought  another  oppor- 
tunity to  distinguish  ourselves  in  battle  with  the 
natives.  The  Wazavira,  we  were  told  by  the  Wako- 
nongo  of  Mrera,  were  enemies  to  all  Wangwana. 

In  a  narrow  strip  of  marsh  between  Mwaru  and 
Mrera,  we  saw  a  small  herd  of  wild  elephants.  It  was 
the  first  time  I  had  ever  seen  these  animals  in  their 
native  wildness,  and  my  first  impressions  of  them  I 
shall  not  readily  forget.  I  am  induced  to  think  that 
the  elephant  deserves  the  title  of  "king  of  beasts."  His 
huge  form,  the  lordly  way  in  which  he  stares  at  an 
intruder  on  his  domain,  and  his  whole  appearance  indi- 


Oct.  1871.] 


TO  MR  ERA,  UKONONGO. 


859 


cative  of  conscious  might,  afford  good  grounds  for  his 
claim  to  that  title.  This  herd,  as  we  passed  it  at  the 
distance  of  a  mile,  stopped  to  survey  the  caravan  as  it 
passed ;  and,  after  having  satisfied  their  curiosity,  the 
elephants  trooped  into  the  forest  which  bounded  the 
marshy  plain  southward,  as  if  caravans  were  every-day 
things  to  them,  whilst  they — the  free  and  unconquerable 
lords  of  the  forest  and  the  marsh — had  nothing  in  com- 
mon with  the  cowardly  bipeds,  who  never  found  courage 
to  face  them  in  fair  combat.  The  destruction  which  a 
herd  makes  in  a  forest  is  simply  tremendous.  When  the 
trees  are  young,  whole  swathes  may  be  found  uprooted 
and  prostrate,  which  mark  the  track  of  the  elephants  as 
they  "  trampled  their  path  through  wood  and  brake." 

The  boy  Selim  was  so  ill  at  this  place  that  I  was 
compelled  to  halt  the  caravan  for  him  for  three  days. 
He  seemed  to  be  affected  with  a  disease  in  the  limbs, 
which  caused  him  to  sprawl,  and  tremble  most  painfully, 
besides  suffering  from  an  attack  of  acute  dysentery. 
But  constant  attendance  and  care  soon  brought  him 
round  again ;  and  on  the  fourth  day  he  was  able  to 
endure  the  fatigue  of  riding. 

I  was  able  to  shoot  several  animals  during  our  stay  at 
Mrera.  The  forest  outside  of  the  cultivation  teems  with 
noble  animals.  Zebra,  giraffe,  elephant,  and  rhinoceros 
are  most  common  :  ptarmigan  and  guinea-fowl  were 
also  plentiful. 

The  warriors  of  Mrera  are  almost  all  armed  with 
muskets,  of  which  they  take  great  care.  They  were 
very  importunate  in  their  demands  for  flints,  bullets, 
and  powder,  which  I  always  made  it  a  point  to  refuse, 
lest  at  any  moment  a  fracas  occurring  they  might  use 
the  ammunition  thus  supplied  to  my  own  disadvantage. 
The  men  of  this  village  were  an  idle  set,  doing  little 


360 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


but  hunting,  gaping,  gossiping,  and  playing  like  great 
boys. 

During  the  interval  of  my  stay  at  Mr  era  I  employed 
a  large  portion  of  my  time  in  mending  my  shoes,  and 
patching  up  the  great  rents  in  my  clothes,  which  the 
thorn  species,  during  the  late  marches,  had  almost 
destroyed.  Westward,  beyond  Mrera,  was  a  wilderness, 
the  transit  of  which  we  were  warned  would  occupy 
nine  days  ;  hence  arose  the  necessity  to  purchase  a  large 
supply  of  grain,  which,  ere  attempting  the  great  unin- 
habited void  in  our  front,  was  to  be  ground  and  sifted 


VIEW  IS  UVINZA. 


CHAPTER  XL 


THROUGH  TKATVENDI,  TJVIXZ.A,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJI. 


TJkonongo. 

h. 

m. 

h. 

m 

From  Mrera  to  Mtoni 

4 

30 

Camp  in  Forest 

4 

15 

Misonghi  . 

4 

30 

Siala  on  the  Malagarazi 

2 

45 

6 

0 

Ihata   Island  in  the 

Mpokwa  in  Utanda 

4 

45 

Malagarazi  . 

1 

30 

3 

0 

Katalambula  . 

1 

45 

Ukawendi. 

Uiiha. 

Mtambu  River. 

.  4 

30 

Kawanga  in  Uhha 

5 

30 

Imrera 

.  4 

20 

Lukomo  „ 

1 

0 

Rusawa  Mts.  . 

.  2 

30 

Kahirigi  „ 

4 

0 

4 

0 

Rusugi  River  . 

5 

0 

Mtoni  .... 

.  5 

0 

Lake  Musunya 

4 

0 

Camp  in  Forest  . 

.  6 

0 

Rugufu  River  . 

4 

30 

Camp  in  Forest  . 

.  5 

30 

Sunuzzi  „ 

3 

0 

UVINZA. 

Niamtaga  Ukaranga  . 

9 

30 

Welled  Nzogera  . 

.  2 

30 

TJjiji.    Port  of  Ujjii 

6 

0 

We  bade  farewell  to  Mrera  on  the  17th  of  October, 
to  continue  our  route  north-westward.    All  the  men 


3<i2 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and  I  were  firm  friends  now ;  all  squabbling*  had  long 
ceased.  Bombay  and  I  had  forgotten  our  quarrel;  the 
kirangozi  and  myself  were  ready  to  embrace,  so  loving 
and  affectionate  were  the  terms  upon  which  we  stood 
towards  one  another.  Confidence  returned  to  all  hearts 
— for  now,  as  Mabruk  Unyanyembe  said,  "  we  could 
smell  the  fish  of  the  Tanganika."  Unyanyembe,  with 
all  its  disquietude,  was  far  behind.  We  could  snap  our 
fingers  at  that  terrible  Mirambo  and  his  unscrupulous 
followers,  and  by-and-by,  perhaps,  we  may  be  able  to 
laugh  at  the  timid  seer  who  always  prophesied  por- 
tentous events — Sheikh,  the  son  of  Nasib.  We  laughed 
joyously,  as  we  glided  in  Indian  file  through  the  young- 
forest  jungle  beyond  the  clearing  of  Mrera,  and  boasted 
of  our  prowess.  Oh !  we  were  truly  brave  that 
morning ! 

Emerging  from  the  jungle,  we  entered  a  thin  forest, 
where  numerous  ant-hills  were  seen  like  so  many  sand 
dunes.  I  imagine  that  these  ant-hills  were  formed 
during  a  remarkably  wet  season,  when,  possibly,  the 
forest-clad  plain  was  inundated.  I  have  seen  the  ants 
at  work  by  thousands,  engaged  in  the  work  of  erecting 
their  hills  in  other  districts  suffering  from  inunda- 
tion. What  a  wonderful  system  of  cells  these  tiny 
insects  construct !  A  perfect  labyrinth — cell  within 
cell,  room  within  room,  hall  within  hall — an  exhibition 
of  engineering  talents  and  high  architectural  capacity 
— a  model  city,  cunningly  contrived  for  safety  and 
comfort ! 

Emerging  after  a  short  hour's  march  out  of  the 
forest,  we  welcome  the  sight  of  a  murmuring  trans- 
lucent stream,  swiftly  flowing  towards  the  north-west, 
which  we  regard  with  the  pleasure  which  only  men 
who  have  for  a  long  time  sickened  themselves  with 


Oct.  1871.]    UKAWENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJJ.  363 

that  potable  liquid  of  the  foulest  kind,  found  in  salinas, 
mbugas,  pools,  and  puddle-holes,  can  realize.  Beyond 
this  stream  rises  a  rugged  and  steep  ridge,  from  the 
summit  of  which  our  eyes  are  gladdened  with  scenes 
that  are  romantic,  animated,  and  picturesque.  They 
form  an  unusual  feast  to  eyes  sated  with  looking  into 
the  depths  of  forests,  at  towering  stems  of  trees,  and  at 
tufted  crowns  of  foliage.  We  have  now  before  us 
scores  of  cones,  dotting  the  surface  of  a  plain  which 
extends  across  Southern  Ukonongo  to  the  territory  of 
the  Wafipa,  and  which  readies  as  far  as  the  Rikwa 
Plain.  The  immense  prospect  before  which  we  are  sud- 
denly ushered  is  most  varied ;  exclusive  of  conical  hills 
and  ambitious  flat-topped  and  isolated  mountains,  we 
are  in  view  of  the  watersheds  of  the  Rungwa  River, 
which  empties  into  the  Tanganika  south  of  where  we 
stand,  and  of  the  Malagarazi  River,  which  the  Tan- 
ganika receives,  a  degree  or  so  north  of  this  position. 
A  single  but  lengthy  latitudinal  ridge  serves  as  a 
dividing  line  to  the  watershed  of  the  Rungwa  and 
Malagarazi ;  and  a  score  of  miles  or  so  further  west 
of  this  ridge  rises  another,  which  runs  north  and 
south. 

We  camped  on  this  day  in  the  jungle,  close  to  a 
narrow  ravine  with  a  marshy  bottom,  through  the  oozy, 
miry  contents  of  which  the  waters  from  the  watershed 
of  the  Rungwa  slowly  trickled  southward  towards  the 
Rikwa  Plain.  This  was  only  one  of  many  ravines, 
however,  some  of  which  were  several  hundred  yards 
broad,  others  were  but  a  few  yards  in  width,  the 
bottoms  of  which  were  most  dangerous  quagmires, 
overgrown  with  dense  tall  reeds  and  papyrus.  Over 
the  surface  of  these  great  depths  of  mud  were  seen 
hundreds  of  thin  threads  of  slimy  ochre-colored  water, 


364 


HOW  J  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


which  swarmed  with  animalculae.  By-and-by,  a  few 
miles  south  of  the  base  of  this  ridge  (which  I  call 
Kasera,  from  the  country  which  it  cuts  in  halves), 
these  several  ravines  converge  and  debouch  into  the 
broad,  marshy,  oozy,  spongy  "  river  "  of  Usense,  which 
trends  in  a  south-easterly  direction ;  after  whicb, 
gathering  the  contents  of  the  watercourses  from  the 
north  and  north-east  into  its  own  broader  channel,  it 
soon  becomes  a  stream  of  some  breadth  and  conse- 
quence, and  meets  a  river  flowing  from  the  east,  from 
the  direction  of  Urori,  with  which  it  conflows  in  the 
Rikwa  Plain,  and  empties  about  sixty  rectilineal  miles 
further  west  into  the  Tanganika  Lake.  The  Eungwa 
River,  I  am  informed,  is  considered  as  a  boundary  line 
between  the  country  of  Usowa  on  the  north,  and  Uflpa 
on  the  south. 

We  had  barely  completed  the  construction  of  our 
camp  defences  when  some  of  the  men  were  heard 
challenging  a  small  party  of  natives  which  advanced 
towards  our  camp,  headed  by  a  man  who,  from  his 
garb  and  head-dress,  we  knew  was  from  Zanzibar. 
After  interchanging  the  customary  salutations,  I  was 
informed  that  this  party  was  an  embassy  from  Simba 
("  Lion  "),  who  ruled  over  Kasera,  in  Southern  Unya- 
mwezi.  Simba,  I  was  told,  was  the  son  of  Mkasiwa, 
King  of  Unyanyembe,  and  was  carrying  on  war  with  the 
Wazavira,  of  whom  I  was  warned  to  beware.  He  had 
heard  such  reports  of  my  greatness  that  he  was  sorry  I 
did  not  take  his  road  to  Ukawendi,  that  he  might  have 
had  the  opportunity  of  seeing  me,  and  making  friends 
with  me ;  but  in  the  absence  of  a  personal  visit  Simba 
had  sent  this  embassy  to  overtake  me,  in  the  hope  that 
I  would  present  him  with  a  token  of  my  friendship  in 
the  shape  of  cloth.    Though  I  was  rather  taken  aback 


Oct.  1871.]  UK  A  WEND  I,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJL  365 

by  the  demand,  still  it  was  politic  in  me  to  make  this 
powerful  chief  my  friend,  lest  on  my  return  from  the 
search  after  Livingstone  he  and  I  might  fall  out. 
And  since  it  was  incumbent  on  me  to  make  a  present, 
for  the  sake  of  peace,  it  was  necessary  to  exhibit  my 
desire  for  peace  by  giving — if  I  gave  at  all — a  royal 
present.  The  ambassador  conveyed  from  me  to  Simba, 
or  the  "  Lion  M  of  Kasera,  two  gorgeous  cloths,  and  two 
other  doti  consisting  of  Merikani  and  Kaniki ;  and,  if  I 
might  believe  the  ambassador,  I  had  made  Simba  a 
friend  for  ever. 

On  the  18th  of  October,  breaking  camp  at  the  usual 
hour,  we  continued  our  march  north-westward  by  a 
road  which  zig-zagged  along  the  base  of  the  Kasera 
mountains,  and  which  took  us  into  all  kinds  of  diffi- 
culties.   We  traversed  at  least  a  dozen  marshv  ravines 

«/ 

the  depth  of  mire  and  water  in  which  caused  the 
utmost  anxiety.  I  sunk  up  to  my  neck  in  deep  holes 
in  the  Stygian  ooze  caused  by  elephants,  and  had  to 
tramp  through  the  oozy  beds  of  the  Rungwa  sources 
with  my  clothes  wet  and  black  with  mud  and  slime. 
Decency  forbade  that  I  should  strip,  and  wade  through 
the  sedgy  marsh  naked ;  and  the  hot  sun  would  also 
blister  my  body.  Moreover,  these  morasses  were  too 
frequent  to  lose  time  in  undressing  and  dressing,  and, 
as  each  man  was  weighted  with  his  own  proper  load,  it 
would  have  been  cruel  to  compel  the  men  to  bear  me 
across.  Nothing  remained,  therefore,  but  to  march  on, 
all  encumbered  as  I  was  with  my  clothing  and  accoutre- 
ments, into  these  several  marshy  watercourses,  with  all 
the  philosophical  stoicism  that  my  nature  could  muster 
for  such  emergencies.  But  it  was  very  uncomfortable, 
to  say  the  least  of  it. 

We  soon  entered  the  territory  of  the  dreaded  Waza- 


36') 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


vira,  but  no  enemy  was  in  sight.  Simba,  in  bis  wars, 
had  made  clean  work  of  the  northern  part  of  Uzavira, 
and  we  encountered  nothing  worse  than  a  view  of  the 
desolated  country,  which  must  have  been  once — judg- 
ing from  the  number  of  burnt  huts  and  debris  of  ruined 
villages — extremely  populous.  A  young  jungle  was 
sprouting  up  vigorously  in  their  fields,  and  was  rapidly 
becoming  the  home  of  wild  denizens  of  the  forest.  In 
one  of  the  deserted  and  ruined  villages,  I  found  quarters 
for  the  Expedition,  which  were  by  no  means  uncom- 
fortable. I  shot  three  brace  of  guinea  fowl  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Misongbi,  the  deserted  village  we 
occupied,  and  Ulimengo,  one  of  my  hunters,  bagged  an 
antelope,  called  the  "  mbawala,"  for  whose  meat  some 
of  the  Wanyamwezi  have  a  superstitious  aversion.  I 
take  this  species  of  antelope,  which  stands  about  three 
and  a  half  feet  high,  of  a  reddish  hide,  head  long,  horns 
short,  to  be  the  "  Nzoe  "  antelope  discovered  by  Speke  in 
Uganda,  and  whose  Latin  designation  is,  according  to 
Dr.  Sclater,  "Tragelaphus  Spekii."  It  has  a  short 
bushy  tail,  and  long  hair  along  the  spine. 

A  long  march  in  a  west-by-north  direction,  lasting 
six  hours,  through  a  forest  where  the  sable  antelope 
was  seen,  and  which  was  otherwise  prolific  with  game, 
brought  us  to  a  stream  which  ran  by  the  base  of 
a  lofty  conical  hill,  on  whose  slopes  flourished  quite  a 
forest  of  feathery  bamboo. 

On  the  20th,  leaving  our  camp,  which  lay  between 
the  stream  and  the  conical  hill  above  mentioned,  and 
surmounting  a  low  ridge  which  sloped  from  the  base  of 
the  hill-cone,  we  were  greeted  with  another  picturesque 
view,  of  cones  and  scarped  mountains,  which  heaved 
upward  in  all  directions.  A  march  of  nearly  five  hours 
through  this  picturesque  country  brought  us  to  the 


Oct.  1871.]    UKA  WENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UHUA,  TO  UJIJL  367 


Mpokwa  River,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Rungwa, 
and  to  a  village  lately  deserted  by  the  Wazavira.  The 
huts  were  almost  all  intact,  precisely  as  they  were  left 
by  their  former  inhabitants.  In  the  gardens  were  yet 
found  vegetables,  which,  after  living  so  long  on  meat, 
were  most  grateful  to  us.  On  the  branches  of  trees  still 
rested  the  Lares  and  Penates  of  the  Wazavira,  in  the 
shape  of  large  and  exceedingly  well-made  earthen  pots. 


VILLAGE  IN  UZAVIRA — NATIVE  POTTERY. 


In  the  neighboring  river  one  of  my  men  succeeded, 
in  a  few  minutes,  in  catching  sixty  fish  of  the  silurus 
species  by  the  hand  alone.  A  number  of  birds 
hovered  about  the  stream,  such  as  the  white-headed 
fish-eagle  and  the  black  kingfisher,  enormous  snowy 
spoonbills,  ibis,  martins,  &c.  This  river  issued  from 
a  mountain  clump  eight  miles  or  so  north  of  the 
village  of  Mpokwa,  and  comes  flowing  down  a  narrow 
thread  of  water,  sinuously  winding  amongst  tall  reeds 


368 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and  dense  brakes  on  either  side — the  home  of  hun- 
dreds of  antelopes  and*  buffaloes.  South  of  Mpokwa, 
the  valley  broadens,  and  the  mountains  deflect  eastward 
and  westward,  and  beyond  this  point  commences  the 
plain  known  as  the  Rikwa,  which,  during  the  Masika 
is  inundated,  but  which,  in  the  dry  season,  presents  the 
same  bleached  aspect  that  plains  in  Africa  generally  do 
when  the  grass  has  ripened. 

Travelling  up  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Mpokwa, 
on  the  21st  we  came  to  the  head  of  the  stream,  and 
the  sources  of  the  Mpokwa,  issuing  out  of  deep  denies 
enclosed  by  lofty  ranges.  The  mbawala  and  the  buffalo 
were  plentiful. 

On  the  22nd,  after  a  march  of  four  hours  and  a  half, 
we  came  to  the  beautiful  stream  of  Mtambu — the  water 
of  which  was  sweet,  and  clear  as  crystal,  and  flowed 
northward.  We  saw  for  the  first  time  the  home  of  the 
lion  and  the  leopard.  Hear  what  Freiligrath  says  of 
the  place  : 

"  Where  the  thorny  brake  and  thicket 

Densely  fill  the  interspace 
Of  the  trees,  through  whose  thick  branches 

Never  sunshine  lights  the  place, 
There  the  lion  dwells,  a  monarch, 

Mightiest  among  the  brutes  : 
There  his  right  to  reign  supremest 

Never  one  his  claim  disputes. 
There  he  layeth  down  to  slumber, 

Having  slain  and  ta'en  his  fill ; 
There  he  roameth,  there  he  croucheth. 

As  it  suits  his  lordly  will." 

We  camped  but  a  few  yards  from  just  such  a  place 
as  the  poet  describes.  The  herd-keeper  who  attended 
the  goats  and  donkeys,  soon  after  our  arrival  in  camp, 
drove  the  animals  to  water,  and  in  order  to  obtain  it 


Oct.  1871.]    UKAWENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJ1.  369 

they  travelled  through  a  tunnel  in  the  brake,  caused  by 
elephants  and  rhinoceros.  They  had  barely  entered  the 
dark  cavernous  passage,  when  a  black-spotted  leopard 
sprang,  and  fastened  its  fangs  in  the  neck  of  one  of 
the  donkeys,  causing  it,  from  the  pain,  to  bray  hideously. 
Its  companions  set  up  such  a  frightful  chorus,  and 
so  lashed  their  heels  in  the  air  at  the  feline  marauder, 
as  to  cause  the  leopard  to  bound  away  through  the 
brake,  as  if  in  sheer  dismay  at  the  noisy  cries  which 
the  attack  had  provoked.  The  donkey's  neck  exhibited 
some  frightful  wounds,  but  the  animal  was  not  dan- 
gerously hurt. 

Thinking  that  possibly  I  might  meet  with  an  adven- 
ture with  a  lion  or  a  leopard  in  that  dark  belt  of  tali 
trees,  under  whose  impenetrable  sbade  grew  the  dense 
thicket  that  formed  such  admirable  coverts  for  the  car- 
nivorous species,  I  took  a  stroll  along  the  awesome 
place  with  the  gunbearer,  Kalulu,  carrying  an  extra 
gun,  and  a  further  supply  of  ammunition.  We  crept 
cautiously  along,  looking  keenly  into  the  deep  dark 
dens,  the  entrances  of  which  were  revealed  to  us,  as 
we  journeyed,  expectant  every  moment  to  behold  the 
reputed  monarch  of  the  brake  and  thicket,  bound  for- 
ward to  meet  us,  and  I  took  a  special  delight  in  pictur- 
ing, in  my  imagination,  the  splendor  and  majesty  of 
the  wrathful  brute,  as  he  might  stand  before  me.  1 
peered  closely  into  every  dark  opening,  hoping  to  see 
the  deadly  glitter  of  the  great  angry  eyes,  and  the 
glowering  menacing  front  of  the  lion  as  he  would 
regard  me.  But,  alas !  after  an  hour's  search  for 
adventure,  I  had  encountered  nothing,  and  I  accord- 
ingly waxed  courageous,  and  crept  into  one  of  these 
leafy,  thorny  caverns,  and  found  myself  shortly  stand- 
ing under  a  canopy  of  foliage  that  was  held  above  my 

2  B 


370 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


head  fully  a  hundred  feet  by  the  shapely  and  towering 
steins  of  the  royal  rnvule.     Who  can   imagine  the 
position  ?    A  smooth  lawn-like  glade ;  a  dense  and 
awful  growth  of  impenetrable  jungle  around  us ;  those 
stately  natural  pillars — a  glorious  phalanx  of  royal 
trees,  bearing  at  such  sublime  heights  vivid  green 
masses  of  foliage,  through  which  no    single  sun-ray 
penetrated,  while  at  our  feet  babbled  the  primeval 
brook,  over  smooth  pebbles,  in  soft  tones  befitting  the 
sacred  quiet  of  the  scene  !    Who  could  have  desecrated 
this  solemn,  holy  harmony  of  nature  ?    But  just  as  I 
was  thinking  it  impossible  that  any  man  could  be 
tempted  to  disturb  the  serene  solitude  of  the  place,  I 
saw  a  monkey  perched  high  on  a  branch  over  my  head, 
contemplating,  with  something  of  an  awe-struck  look, 
the  strange  intruders  beneath.    Well,  I  could  not  help 
it,  I  laughed — laughed  loud  and  long,  until  I  was 
hushed  by  the  chaos  of  cries  and  strange  noises  which 
seemed   to  respond  to  my  laughing.    A  troop  of 
monkeys,  hidden  in  the  leafy  depths  above,  had  been 
rudely  awakened,  and,  startled  by  the  noise  I  made, 
were  hurrying  away  from  the  scene  with  a  dreadful 
clamor  of  cries  and  shrieks. 

Emerging  again  into  the  broad  sunlight,  I  strolled 
further  in  search  of  something  to  shoot.  Presently,  I 
saw,  feeding  quietly  in  the  forest  which  bounded  the 
valley  of  the  Mtambu  on  the  left,  a  huge,  reddish 
colored  wild  boar,  armed  with  most  horrid  tusks.  Leav- 
ing Kalulu  crouched  down  behind  a  tree,  and  my  solar 
helmet  behind  another  close  by — that  I  might  more 
safely  stalk  the  animal  —  I  advanced  towards  him 
some  forty  yards,  and  after  taking  a  deliberate  aim, 
fired  at  its  fore  shoulder.  As  if  nothing  had  hurt  him 
whatever,  the  animal  made  a  furious  bound,  and  then 


Oct.  1871.]  UK  A  WEND  I y  UV1NZA,  AND  UIIHA,  TO  UJIJ1.  371 

stood  with  his  bristles  erected,  and  tufted  tail,  curved 
over  the  back — a  most  formidable  brute  in  appearance. 
While  he  was  thus  listening,  and  searching  the  neigh- 
bourhood with  his  keen  .small  eyes,  I  planted  another 
shot  in  his  chest,  which  ploughed  its  way  through  his 
body.  Instead  of  falling,  however,  as  I  expected  he 
would,  he  charged  furiously  in  the  direction  the  bullet 
had  come,  and  as  he  rushed  past  me,  another  ball  was 
fired,  which  went  right  through  him  ;  but  still  he  kept 
on,  until,  within  six  or  seven  yards  from  the  trees 
behind  which  Kalulu  wras  crouching  down  on  one 
side,  and  the  helmet  was  resting  behind  another,  he 
suddenly  halted,  and  then  dropped.  But  as  I  was 
about  to  advance  on  him  with  my  knife  to  cut  his 
throat,  he  suddenly  started  up ;  his  eyes  had  caught 
sight  of  the  little  boy  Kalulu,  and  were  then,  almost 
immediately  afterwards,  attracted  by  the  sight  of  the 
snowy  helmet.  These  strange  objects  on  either  side  of 
him  proved  too  much  for  the  boar,  for,  with  a  terrific 
grunt,  he  darted  on  one  side  into  a  thick  brake,  from 
which  it  was  impossible  to  oust  him,  and  as  it  was  now 
getting  late,  and  the  camp  was  about  three  miles  away, 
I  was  reluctantly  obliged  to  return  without  the  meat. 

On  our  way  to  camp  we  were  accompanied  by  a 
large  animal  which  persistently  followed  us  on  our  left. 
It  was  too  dark  to  see  plainly,  but  a  large  form  was 
visible,  if  not  very  clearly  defined.  It  must  have  been 
a  lion,  unless  it  was  the  ghost  of  the  dead  boar. 

That  night,  about  11  p.m.,  we  were  startled  by  the 
roar  of  a  lion,  in  close  proximity  to  the  camp.  Soon 
it  was  joined  by  another,  and  another  still,  and  the 
novelty  of  the  thing  kept  me  awake.  I  peered  through 
the  gate  of  the  camp,  and  endeavoured  to  sight  a  rifle 
— my  little  Winchester,  in  the  accuracy  of  which  I  had 


372 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


perfect  confidence ;  but,  alas !  for  the  cartridges,  they 
might  have  been  as  well  filled  with  sawdust  for  all 
the  benefit  I  derived  from  them.  Disgusted  with  the 
miserable  ammunition,  I  left  the  lions  alone,  and  turned 
in,  with  their  roar  as  a  lullaby. 

That  terrestrial  paradise  for  the  hunter,  the  valley 
of  the  pellucid  Mtambu,  was  deserted  by  us  the  next 
morning  for  the  settlement  commonly  known  to  the 
Wakawendi  as  Imrera's,  with  as  much  unconcern  as 
though  it  were  a  howling  desert.  The  village  near 
which  we  encamped  was  called  Itaga,  in  the  district  of 
Rusawa.  As  soon  as  we  had  crossed  the  River  Mtambu 
we  had  entered  Ukawendi,  commonly  called  "  Kawendi  " 
by  the  natives  of  the  country. 

The  district  of  Rusawa  is  thickly  populated.  The 
people  are  quiet  and  well-disposed  to  strangers,  though 
few  ever  come  to  this  region  from  afar.  One  or  two 
Wasawahili  traders  visit  it  every  year  or  so  from 
Pumburu  and  Usowa ;  but  very  little  ivory  being 
obtained  from  the  people,  the  long  distance  between 
the  settlements  serves  to  deter  the  regular  trader  from 
venturing  hither. 

If  caravans  arrive  here,  the  objective  point  to  them  is 
the  district  of  Pumburu,  situated  south-westerly  one 
day's  good  marching,  or,  say,  thirty  statute  miles  from 
Imrera  ;  or  they  make  for  Usowa,  on  the  Tanganika,  via 
Pumburu,  Katurna,  Uyombeh,  and  Ugarawah.  Usowa 
is  quite  an  important  district  on  the  Tanganika,  popu- 
lous and  flourishing.  This  was  the  road  we  had 
intended  to  adopt  after  leaving  Imrera,  but  the 
reports  received  at  the  latter  place  forbade  such  a 
venture.  For  Mapunda,  the  Sultan  of  Usowa,  though 
a  great  friend  to  Arab  traders,  was  at  war  with  the 
r>olonv  of  the  Wazavira,  who  we  must  remember  were 


Oct.  L871.]    UKAWENDI,  UV1NZA,  AND  UIIHA,  TO  UJIJ1.  373 


driven  from  Mpokwa  and  vicinity  in  Utanda,  and  who 
were  said  to  have  settled  between  Pumburu  and  Usowa. 

It  remained  for  us,  like  wise,  prudent  men,  having 
charge  of  a  large  and  valuable  Expedition  on  our  hands, 
to  decide  what  to  do,  and  what  route  to  adopt,  now  that 
we  had  approached  much  nearer  to  Ujiji  than  we  were  to 
Unyanyerabe.  I  suggested  that  we  should  make  direct 
for  the  Tanganika  by  compass,  trusting  to  no  road  or 
guide,  but  to  march  direct  west  until  we  came  to  the 
Tanganika,  and  then  follow  the  lake  shore  on  foot  until 
we  came  to  Ujiji.  For  it  ever  haunted  my  mind,  that, 
if  Dr.  Livingstone  should  hear  of  my  coming,  which 
he  might  possibly  do  if  I  travelled  along  any  known 
road,  he  would  leave,  and  that  my  search  for  him 
would  consequently  be  a  "  stern  chase."  But  my 
principal  men  thought  it  better  that  we  should  now 
boldly  turn  our  faces  north,  and  march  for  the  Mala- 
garazi,  which  was  said  to  be  a  large  river  flowing  from 
the  east  to  the  Tanganika.  But  none  of  my  men 
knew  the  road  to  the  Malagarazi,  neither  could  guides 
be  hired  from  Sultan  Imrera.  We  were,  however, 
informed  that  the  Malagarazi  was  but  two  days'  march 
from  Imrera.  I  thought  it  safe,  in  such  a  case,  to 
provision  my  men  witli  three  days'  rations. 

The  village  of  Itaga  is  situated  in  a  deep  mountain 
hollow,  finely  overlooking  a  large  extent  of  cultivation. 
The  people  grow  sweet  potatoes,  manioc — out  of  which 
tapioca  is  made — beans,  and  the  holcus.  Not  one 
chicken  was  to  be  purchased  for  love  or  money,  and, 
besides  grain,  only  a  lean,  scraggy  specimen  of  a  goat, 
a  long  time  ago  imported  from  Uvinza,  was  procurable. 

October  the  25th  will  be  remembered  by  me  as  a 
day  of  great  troubles ;  in  fact,  a  series  of  troubles  began 
from  this  date.    We  struck  an  easterly  road  in  order  to 


374 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


obtain  a  passage  to  the  lofty  plateau  which  bounded 
the  valley  of  Imrera  on  the  west  and  on  the  north. 
We  camped,  after  a  two  and  a  half  hours'  march,  at  its 
foot.  The  defile  promised  a  feasible  means  of  ascent  to 
the  summit  of  the  plateau,  which  rose  upward  in 
a  series  of  scarps  a  thousand  feet  above  the  valley  of 
Jmrera. 

I  was  given  to  understand  by  my  men  that  they 
wished  to  halt  at  this  camp  one  day,  for  the  purpose  of 
eliciting  further  information  from  Imrera  concerning 
the  nature  of  the  country  between  us  and  the  Malagarazi. 
This  was,  of  course,  nonsense,  as  I  had  already  halted 
one  day  at  Imrera,  and  the  guides  had  urged  me  to 
adopt  this  road,  as — so  they  argued — they  had  obtained 
reliable  information  from  the  natives  about  the  country. 
I  remembered  General  Andrew  Jackson's  advice  to  a 
young  friend  of  his,  which  was,  "  Look  well  before  you 
attempt  to  do  a  thing,  but,  when  you  have  decided  to 
do  it,  go  and  do  it,  and  never  look  behind,"  and  this 
was  precisely  what  I  intended  to  do. 

Towards  night  one  of  my  men  shot  a  buffalo,  and 
this  little  incident  was  another  cause  of  dissension  and 
angry  retort.  The  buffalo  managed  to  escape  into  a 
jungle,  where  he  would  be  sure  to  be  found  dead  in  the 
morning.  I  was  asked  by  several  belly- worshippers 
and  lazy  gluttons  if  I  would  stop  but  just  one  day  more, 
that  they  might  make  their  limbs  strong  with  eating 
meat.  "Not  an  hour  after  sunrise  to-morrow,"  was 
my  answer.  Immediately  ensued  a  general  cry  of  "  No 
*  posho  ' — food."  "  You  have  three  days'  food,"  I  an- 
swered ;  "  but  if  you  wish  more,  here  is  cloth  :  go  and 
buy." 

But,  when  challenged  to  proceed  to  the  village  to 
.purchase,  they  each  and  all  pleaded  fatigue.  They 


Oct.  1871.]    UKAWESDI,  UVISZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJUh  375 


insisted,  however,  that  I  was  in  duty  bound  to  halt  one 
day  longer,  for,  even  if  they  purchased  grain,  the  grain 
required  to  be  ground  before  they  could  eat  it.  The 
pampered  fellows  maintained  this  kind  of  argument 
long.  But  I  was  inexorable.  And  all  night  they  were 
debating  what  steps  to  take  to  induce  me  to  halt ;  but 
Bombay  and  Mabruki  were  already  prohibited  from 
coming  to  me  with  any  such  request,  upon  pain  of 
battle  a  la  Heenan  ;  and  Bombay  always  remembered 
the  terrible  punishment  he  received  from  Speke  too  well 
to  ever  desire  a  repetition  of  it. 

The  next  morning,  at  sunrise,  I  issued  the  order  to 
44  march  "  in  as  stern  and  uncompromising  a  tone  as  I 
could  assume,  thus  precluding  any  nllusion  to  a  halt. 
They  were  very  sulky,  and  in  fit  mood  to  rebel,  but,  as 
nothing  more  was  left  whereon  to  hang  an  argument, 
they  finally,  though  reluctantly,  yielded  to  my  wilt 
By  the  time  we  arrived  at  our  camp  at  the  head  of  the 
Rugufu  River,  the  men  had  forgotten  the  fat  buffalo, 
and  were  in  excellent  humor. 

While  ascending  that  lofty  arc  of  mountains  which 
bounded  westerly  and  northerly  the  basin  of  Imrera, 
extensive  prospects  southward  and  eastward  were  re- 
vealed. The  character  of  the  scenery  of  Ukawendi  is 
always  animated  and  picturesque,  but  never  sublime. 
The  folds  of  this  ridge  contained  several  ruins  of 
bomas,  which  seemed  to  have  been  erected  during  war 
time. 

The  mbembu  fruit  was  plentiful  along  this  march, 
and  every  few  minutes  I  could  see  from  the  rear  one  or 
two  of  the  men  hastening  to  secure  a  treasure  of  it 
which  they  discovered  on  the  ground. 

A  little  before  reaching  the  camp  I  had  a  shot  at  a 
leopard,  but  failed  to  bring  him  down  as  he  bounded 


376 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


away.  At  night  the  lions  roared  as  at  the  Mtambu 
River. 

A  lengthy  march  under  the  deep  twilight  shadows 
of  a  great  forest,  which  protected  us  from  the  hot 
sunbeams,  brought  us,  on  the  next  day,  to  a  camp 
newly  constructed  by  a  party  of  Arabs  from  Ujiji,  who 
had  advanced  thus  far  on  their  road  to  Unyanyembe, 
but,  alarmed  at  the  reports  of  the  war  between  Mirambo 
and  the  Arabs,  had  returned.  Our  route  was  along 
the  right  bank  of  the  Rugufu,  a  broad  sluggish  stream, 
well  choked  with  the  matete  reeds  and  the  papyrus. 
The  tracks  and  the  bouse  de  vache  of  buffaloes  were 
numerous,  and  there  were  several  indications  of  rhino- 
ceros being  near.  In  a  deep  clump  of  timber  near  this 
river  we  discovered  a  colony  of  bearded  and  leonine- 
looking  monkeys. 

As  we  were  about  leaving  our  camp  on  the  morning 
of  the  28th  a  herd  of  buffalo  walked  deliberately  into 
view.  Silence  was  quickly  restored,  but  not  before  the 
animals,  to  their  great  surprise,  had  discovered  the 
danger  which  confronted  them.  We  commenced  stalk- 
ing  them,  but  we  soon  heard  the  thundering  sound  of 
their  gallop,  after  which  it  becomes  a  useless  task  to 
follow  them,  with  a  long  march  in  a  wilderness  before 
one. 

The  road  led  on  this  day  over  immense  sheets  of 
sandstone  and  iron  ore.  The  water  was  abominable, 
and  scarce,  and  famine  began  to  stare  us  in  the  face. 
We  travelled  for  six  hours,  and  had  yet  seen  no  sign 
of  cultivation  anywhere.  According  to  my  map  we 
were  yet  two  long  marches  from  the  Malagarazi — if 
Captain  Burton  had  correctly  laid  down  the  position  of 
the  river ;  according  to  the  natives'  account,  we  should 
have  arrived  at  the  Malagarazi  on  this  day. 


Oct.  1871.]    UKAWEXDI,  UVIXZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJI.  377 


On  the  29th  we  left  our  camp,  and  after  a  few 
minutes,  we  were  in  view  of  the  sublimest,  but  rug- 
gedest  scenes  we  had  yet  beheld  in  Africa.  The  country 
was  cut  up  in  all  directions  by  deep,  wild,  and  narrow 
ravines  trending  in  all  directions,  but  generally  toward 
the  north-west,  while  on  either  side  rose  enormous 
square  masses  of  naked  rock  (sandstone),  sometimes 
towering,  and  rounded,  sometimes  pyramidal,  some- 
times in  truncated  cones,  sometimes  in  circular  ridges, 
with  sharp,  rugged,  naked  backs,  with  but  little  vege- 
tation anywhere  visible,  except  it  obtained  a  precarious 
tenure  in  the  fissured  crown  of  some  gigantic  hill-top, 
whither  some  soil  had  fallen,  or  at  the  base  of  the 
reddish  ochre  scarps  which  everywhere  lifted  their 
fronts  to  our  view. 

A  long  series  of  descents  down  rocky  gullies,  wherein 
we  were  environed  by  threatening  masses  of  disinte- 
grated rock,  brought  us  to  a  dry,  stony  ravine,  with 
mountain  heights  looming  above  us  some  thousand 
feet  high.  This  ravine  we  followed,  winding  around  in 
all  directions,  but  which  gradually  widened,  however, 
into  a  broad  plain,  with  a  western  trend.  The  road, 
leaving  this,  struck  across  a  low  ridge  to  the  north  ; 
and  we  were  in  view  of  deserted  settlements  where  the 
villages  were  built  on  frowning  castellated  masses  of 
rock.  Near  an  upright  mass  of  rock  over  seventy  feet 
high,  and  about  fifty  yards  in  diameter,  which  dwarfed 
the  gigantic  sycamore  close  to  it,  we  made  our  camp, 
after  five  hours  and  thirty  minutes'  continuous  and  rapid 
marching. 

The  people  were  very  hungry ;  they  had  eaten  every 
scrap  of  meat,  and  every  grain  they  possessed,  twenty 
hours  before,  and  there  was  no  immediate  prospect  of  food. 
I  had  but  a  pound  and  a-half  of  flour  left,  and  this  would 


378 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


not  have  sufficed  to  begin  to  feed  a  force  of  over  forty- 
five  people ;  but  I  had  something  like  thirty  pounds  of 
tea,  and  twenty  pounds  of  sugar  left,  and  I  at  once,  as 
soon  as  we  arrived  at  camp,  ordered  every  kettle  to  be 
filled  and  placed  on  the  fire,  and  then  made  tea  for  all. 
giving  each  man  a  quart  of  a  hot,  grateful  beverage, 
well  sweetened.  Parties  stole  out  also  into  the  depths 
of  the  jungle  to  search  for  wild  fruit,  and  soon  returned 
laden  with  baskets  of  the  wood-peach  and  tamarind 
fruit,  which,  though  it  did  not  satisfy,  relieved  them. 
That  night,  before  going  to  sleep,  the  Wangwana  set 
up  a  loud  prayer  to  "  Allah  "  to  give  them  food. 

We  rose  betimes  in  the  morning,  determined  to  travel 
on  until  food  could  be  procured,  or  we  dropped  down 
from  sheer  fatigue  and  weakness.  Rhinoceros'  tracks 
abounded,  and  buffalo  seemed  to  be  plentiful,  but  we 
never  beheld  a  living  thing.  We  crossed  scores  of 
short  steeps,  and  descended  as  often  into  the  depths  of 
dry,  stony  gullies,  and  then  finally  entered  a  valley, 
bounded  on  one  side  by  a  triangular  mountain  with 
perpendicular  sides,  and  on  the  other  by  a  bold  group, 
a  triplet  of  hills.  While  inarching  down  this  valley — 
which  soon  changed  its  dry,  bleached  aspect  to  a  vivid 
green — we  saw  a  forest  in  the  distance,  and  shortly 
found  ourselves  in  corn-fields.  Looking  keenly  around 
for  a  village,  we  descried  it  on  the  summit  of  the  lofty 
triangular  hill  on  our  right.  A  loud  exultant  shout  was 
raised  at  the  discovery.  The  men  threw  down  their 
packs,  and  began  to  clamor  for  food.  Volunteers 
were  asked  to  come  forward  to  take  cloth,  and  scale 
the  heights  to  obtain  it  from  the  village,  at  any  price. 
W7hile  three  or  four  sallied  off  we  rested  on  the  ground, 
quite  worn  out. 

In  about  an  hour  the  foraging  party  returned  with 


Oct.  1871.]    UKA  WEND1,  UVINZA,  AND  UIIHA,  TO  UJIJI.  579 

the  glorious  tidings  that  food  was  plentiful ;  that  the 
village  we  saw  was  called,  "  Welled  Nzogera's  " — the 
son  of  Nzogera — by  which,  of  course,  we  knew  that  we 
were  in  Uvinza,  Nzogera  being  the  principal  chief  in 
Uvinza.  We  were  further  informed  that  Nzogera,  the 
father,  was  at  war  with  Lokanda-Mira,  about  some  salt- 
pans in  the  valley  of  the  Malagarazi,  and  that  it  would 
be  difficult  to  go  to  Ujiji  by  the  usual  road,  owing  to 
this  war ;  but,  for  a  consideration,  the  son  of  Nzogera 
was  willing  to  supply  us  with  guides,  who  would  take 
us  safely,  by  a  northern  road,  to  Ujiji. 

Everything  auguring  well  for  our  prospects,  we  en- 
camped to  enjoy  the  good  cheer,  for  which  our  troubles 
and  privations,  during  the  transit  of  the  Ukawendi 
forests  and  jungles,  had  well  prepared  us. 

Then  began  a  diplomatic  course  of  arguments  re- 
specting the  quantity  and  quality  of  the  cloths  which 
the  son  of  Nzogera  usually  demanded  from  travellers. 
From  ten  doti,  we  succeeded  in  reducing  the  demand 
to  seven  and  a  half  doti  of  Merikani  and  Kaniki,  and 
were  successful  in  procuring  the  guides  we  desired. 

I  am  now  going  to  extract  from  my  diary  of  the 
march,  as,  without  its  aid,  I  deem  it  impossible  to  relate 
fully  our  various  experiences,  so  as  to  show  them  pro- 
perly as  they  occurred  to  us ;  and  as  these  extracts 
were  written  and  recorded  at  the  close  of  each  day, 
they  possess  more  interest,  in  my  opinion,  than  a  cold 
relation  of  facts,  now  toned  down  in  memory. 

October  ?>\st.  Tuesday. — Camp  in  jungle.  Direc- 
tion of  road,  north-by-east.  Time  occupied  by  march, 
4  hours  15  minutes. 

Our  road  led  E.N.E.  for  a  considerable  time  after 
leaving  the  base  of  the  triangular  mountain  whereon 
the  son  of  Nzogera  has  established  his  stronghold,  in 


380 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


order  to  avoid  a  deep  and  impassable  portion  of  marsh, 
that  stood  between  us  and  the  direct  route  to  the 
Malagarazi  River.  The  valley  sloped  rapidly  to  this 
marsh,  which  received  in  its  broad  bosom  the  drainage 
of  three  extensive  ranges.  Soon  we  turned  our  faces 
north-west,  and  prepared  to  cross  the  marsh  ;  and  the 
guides  informed  us,  as  we  halted  on  its  eastern  bank, 
of  a  terrible  catastrophe  which  occurred  a  few  yards 
above  where  we  were  preparing  to  cross.  They 
told  of  an  Arab  and  his  caravan,  consisting  of  thirty- 
five  slaves,  who  had  suddenly  sunk  out  of  sight,  and  who 
were  never  more  heard  of.  This  marsh,  as  it  appeared 
to  us,  presented  a  breadth  of  some  hundreds  of  yards, 
on  which  grew  a  close  network  of  grass,  with  much 
decayed  matter  mixed  up  with  it.  In  the  centre  of  this, 
and  underneath  it,  ran  a  broad,  deep,  and  rapid  stream. 
As  the  guides  proceeded  across,  the  men  stole  after  them 
with  cautious  footsteps.  As  they  arrived  near  the  centre 
we  began  to  see  this  unstable  grassy  bridge,  so  curiously 
provided  by  nature  for  us,  move  up  and  down  in  heavy 
languid  undulations,  like  the  swell  of  the  sea  after  a 
storm.  Where  the  two  asses  of  the  Expedition  moved, 
the  grassy  waves  rose  a  foot  high  ;  but  suddenly  one  un- 
fortunate animal  plunged  his  feet  through,  and  as  he  was 
unable  to  rise,  he  soon  made  a  deep  hollow,  which  was 
rapidly  filling  with  water.  With  the  aid  of  ten  men, 
however,  we  were  enabled  to  lift  him  bodily  up  and  land 
him  on  a  firmer  part,  and  guiding  them  both  across 
rapidly,  the  entire  caravan  crossed  without  accident. 

On  arriving  at  the  other  side,  we  struck  off  to  the 
north,  and  found  ourselves  in  a  delightful  country,  in 
every  way  suitable  for  agriculturists.  Great  rocks  rose 
here  and  there,  but  in  their  fissures  rose  stately  trees, 
under  whose  umbrage  nestled  the  villages  of  the  people. 


Nov.  1871.]  UK  A  WEND  I,  UVINZA,  AND  UIIIIA,  TO  UJ1JT.  381 

We  found  the  various  village  elders  greedy  for  cloth, 
but  the  presence  of  the  younger  son  of  Nzogera's  men 
restrained  their  propensity  for  extortion.  Goats  and 
sheep  were  remarkably  cheap,  and  in  good  condition ; 
and,  consequently,  to  celebrate  our  arrival  near  the 
Malagarazi,  a  flock  of  eight  goats  were  slaughtered, 
and  distributed  to  the  men. 

November  1st. — Striking  north-west,  after  leaving 
our  camp,  and  descending  the  slope  of  a  mountain,  we 
soon  beheld  the  anxiously  looked-for  Malagarazi,  a 
narrow  but  deep  stream,  flowing  through  a  valley  pent 
in  by  lofty  mountains.  Fish -eating  birds  lined  the  trees 
on  its  banks;  villages  were  thickly  scattered  about. 
Food  was  abundant,  and  cheap. 

After  travelling  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river  a 
few  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  settlements  recognizing 
Kiala  as  their  ruler.  I  had  anticipated  we  should  be 
able  at  once  to  cross  the  river,  but  difficulties  arose. 
We  were  told  to  camp,  before  any  negotiations  could 
be  entered  into.  When  we  demurred,  we  were  informed 
we  might  cross  the  river  if  we  wished,  but  we  should 
not  be  assisted  by  any  Mvinza. 

Being  compelled  to  halt  for  this  day,  the  tent  was 
pitched  in  the  middle  of  one  of  the  villages,  and  the 
bales  were  stored  in  one  of  the  huts,  with  four  soldiers 
to  guard  them.  After  despatching  an  embassy  to 
Kiala,  eldest  son  of  the  great  chief  Nzogera,  to  request 
permission  to  cross  the  river  as  a  peaceable  caravan, 
Kiala  sent  word  that  the  white  man  should  cross  his 
river  after  the  payment  of  fifty-six  cloths !  Fifty-six 
cloths  signified  a  bale  nearly !  Here  was  another 
opportunity  for  diplomacy.  Bombay  and  Asmani  were 
empowered  to  treat  with  Kiala  about  the  honga, 
but  it  was  not  to  exceed  twenty-five  doti.    At  6  a.m., 


382 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


having  spoken  for  seven  hours,  the  two  men  returned, 
with  the  demand  for  thirteen  doti  for  Nzogera,  and  ten 
doti  for  Kiala.  Poor  Bombay  was  hoarse,  but  Asmani 
still  smiled ;  and  I  relented,  congratulating  myself 
that  the  preposterous  demand,  which  was  simply 
robbery,  was  no  worse. 

Three  hours  later  another  demand  was  made.  Kiala 
had  been  visited  by  a  couple  of  chiefs  from  his  father ; 
and  the  chiefs  being  told  that  a  white  man  w^as  at  the 
ferry,  put  in  a  claim  for  a  couple  of  guns  and  a  keg  of 
gunpowder.  But  here  my  patience  was  exhausted,  and 
I  declared  that  they  should  have  to  take  them  by  force, 
for  I  would  never  consent  to  be  robbed  and  despoiled 
after  any  such  fashion. 

Until  11  p.m.,  Bombay  and  Asmani  were  negotiating 
about  this  extra  demand,  arguing,  quarrelling,  threaten- 
ing, until  Bombay  declared  they  would  talk  him  mad  if 
it  lasted  much  longer.  I  told  Bombay  to  take  two 
cloths,  one  for  each  chief,  and,  if  they  did  not  consider 
it  enough,  then  I  should  fight.  The  present  was  taken, 
and  the  negotiations  wTere  terminated  at  midnight. 

November  2nd. — Ihata  Island,  one  and  a  half  hour  west 
of  Kiala's.  We  arrived  before  the  Island  of  Ihata,  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Malagarazi,  at  5  p.m.  ;  the  morning 
having  been  wasted  in  puerile  talk  with  the  owner  of 
the  canoes  at  the  ferry.  The  final  demand  for  ferriage 
across  was  eight  yards  of  cloth  and  four  fundo*  of 
sami-sami,  or  red  beads  ;  which  was  at  once  paid. 
Four  men,  with  their  loads,  were  permitted  to  cross  in 
the  small,  unshapely,  and  cranky  canoes.  When  the 
boatmen  had  discharged  their  canoes  of  their  passengers 
and  cargoes,  they  were  ordered  to  halt  on  the  other 
side,  and,  to  my  astonishment,  another  demand  was 

*  4  fundo  =  40  necklaces;  1  fundo  being  10  neckLaces. 


Nov.  1871.]    UKAWENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UBHA,  TO  UJIJL  3851 

made.  The  ferrymen  had  found  that  two  fundo  of  these 
were  of  short  measure,  and  two  fundo  more  must  be 
paid,  otherwise  the  contract  for  ferrying  us  across  would 
be  considered  null  and  void.  So  two  fundo  more  were 
added,  but  not  without  demur  and  44  talk,"  which  in 
these  lands  are  necessary. 

Three  times  the  canoes  went  backwards  and  forwards, 
when,  lo !  another  demand  was  made,  with  the  usual 
clamor  and  fierce  wordy  dispute  ;  this  time  for  five 
khete*  for  the  man  who  guided  us  to  the  ferry,  a 
shukka  of  cloth  for  a  babbler,  who  had  attached  him- 
self to  the  old-womanish  Jumah,  who  did  nothing  but 
babble  and  increase  the  clamor.  These  demands  were 
also  settled. 

About  sunset  we  endeavoured  to  cross  the  donkeys. 
44  Sirnba,"  a  fine  wild  Kinyamwezi  donkey,  went  in 
first,  with  a  rope  attached  to  his  neck.  He  had  arrived 
at  the  middle  of  the  stream  when  we  saw  him  begin  to 
struggle — a  crocodile  had  seized  him  by  the  throat. 
The  poor  animal's  struggles  were  terrific.  Chowpereh 
was  dragging  on  the  rope  with  all  his  might,  but  to  no 
use,  for  the  donkey  sank,  and  we  saw  no  more  of  him. 
The  depth  of  the  river  at  this  place  was  about  fifteen 
feet.  We  had  seen  the  light-brown  heads,  the  glitter- 
ing eyes,  and  the  ridgy  backs,  hovering  about  the 
vicinity,  but  we  had  never  thought  that  the  beasts  would 
advance  so  near  such  an  exciting  scene  as  the  vicinity 
of  the  ferry  presented  during  the  crossing.  Saddened 
a  little  by  this  loss,  we  resumed  our  work,  and  by  7  p.m. 
we  were  all  across,  excepting  Bombay  and  the  only 
donkey  now  left,  which  was  to  be  brought  across  in  the 
morning,  when  the  crocodiles  should  have  deserted  the 
river. 

*  Kecklaces. 


884 


HOW  J  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


November  3rd. — What  contention  have  we  not  been  a 
witness  to  these  last  three  days  !  What  anxiety  have 
we  not  suffered  ever  since  our  arrival  in  Uviuza !  The 
Wavinza  are  worse  than  the  Wagogo,  and  their  greed  is 
more  insatiable.  We  got  the  donkey  across  with  the 
aid  of  a  mganga,  or  medicine  man,  who  spat  some 
chewed  leaves  of  a  tree  which  grows  close  to  the  stream 
over  him.  He  informed  me  he  could  cross  the  river 
at  any  time,  day  or  night,  after  rubbing  his  body  with 
these  chewed  leaves,  which  he  believed  to  be  a  most 
potent  medicine. 

About  10  a.m..  appeared  from  the  direction  of  Ujiji 
a  caravan  of  eighty  Waguhha,  a  tribe  which  occupies  a 
tract  of  country  on  the  south-western  side  of  the  Lake 
Tanganika.  We  asked  the  news,  and  were  told  a 
white  man  had  just  arrived  at  Ujiji  from  Manyuema. 
This  news  startled  us  all. 

"  A  white  man  ? "  we  asked. 

<l  Yes,  a  white  man,'7  they  replied. 

"  How  is  he  dressed  ?" 

"  Like  the  master,"  they  answered,  referring  to  me. 
"  Is  he  young,  or  old  ?" 

"  He  is  old.  He  has  white  hair  on  his  face,  and 
is  sick." 

"  Where  has  he  come  from  ?" 

"  From  a  very  far  country  away  beyond  Uguhha, 
called  Manyuema." 

"  Indeed  !  and  is  he  stopping  at  Ujiji  now  ?" 

"  Yes,  we  saw  him  about  eight  days  ago." 

"  Do  you  think  he  will  stop  there  until  we  see 
him  ?" 

"  Sigue  "  (don't  know). 

"  Was  he  ever  at  Ujiji  before  ?" 

M  Yes,  he  went  away  a  long  time  ago." 


Nov.  1871.]    UKAWEND1,  UV1NZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJI.  385 


Hurrah !  This  is  Livingstone !  He  must  be 
Livingstone !  He  can  be  no  other ;  but  still ; — he 
may  be  some  one  else — some  one  from  the  West  Coast 
— or  perhaps  he  is  Baker !  No  ;  Baker  lias  no  white 
hair  on  his  face.  But  we  must  now  march  quick,  lest 
he  hears  we  are  coming,  and  runs  away. 

I  addressed  my  men,  and  asked  them  if  they  were 
willing  to  march  to  Ujiji  without  a  single  halt,  and 
then  promised  them,  if  they  acceded  to  my  wishes,  two 
doti  each  man.  All  answered  in  the  affirmative,  almost 
as  much  rejoiced  as  I  was  myself.  But  I  was  madly 
rejoiced ;  intensely  eager  to  resolve  the  burning  ques- 
tion, "  Is  it  Dr.  David  Livingstone  ?"  God  grant  me 
patience,  but  I  do  wish  there  was  a  railroad,  or,  at  least, 
horses  in  this  country.  With  a  horse  I  could  reach 
Ujiji  in  about  twelve  hours. 

We  set  out  at  once  from  the  banks  of  the  Malagarazi, 
accompanied  by  two  guides  furnished  us  by  Usenge, 
the  old  man  of  the  ferry,  who,  now  that  we  had  crossed, 
showed  himself  more  amiably  disposed  to  us.  We 
arrived  at  the  village  of  Isinga,  Sultan  Katalambula, 
after  a  little  over  an  hour's  march  across  a  saline 
plain,  but  which  as  we  advanced  into  the  interior 
became  fertile  and  productive.  We  were  warned  after 
camping  that  to-morrow's  march  would  have  to  be 
made  with  caution,  as  a  band  of  Wavinza,  under 
Makumbi,  a  great  chief  of  Nzogera's,  were  returning 
from  war,  and  it  was  the  custom  of  Makumbi  to  leave 
nothing  behind  him  after  a  victory.  Intoxicated  with 
success,  he  attacked  even  the  villages  of  his  own  tribe, 
capturing  the  live  stock — slaves  and  cattle.  The  result 
of  a  month's  campaign  against  Lokanda-Mira  was  the 
destruction  of  two  villages,  the  killing  of  one  of  the 
children  of  that  chief,  and  the  slaughter  of  several  men  ■ 

2  c 


336  HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 

Makumbi  also  lost  five  men  from  thirst  during  the 
crossing  of  a  saline  desert  south  of  the  Malagarazi. 

November  4th. — Started  early  with  great  caution, 
maintaining  deep  silence.  The  guides  were  sent  for- 
ward, one  two  hundred  yards  ahead  of  the  other,  that 
we  might  be  warned  in  time.  The  first  part  of  the 
march  was  through  a  thin  jungle  of  dwarf  trees,  which 
got  thinner  and  thinner  until  finally  it  vanished  alto- 
gether, and  we  had  entered  Uhha — a  plain  country. 
Tillages  were  visible  by  the  score  among  the  tall 
bleached  stalks  of  dourra  and  maize.  Sometimes  three, 
sometimes  five,  ten,  or  twenty  beehive-shaped  huts 
formed  a  village.  The  Wahha  were  evidently  living  in 
perfect  security,  for  not  one  village  amongst  them  all 
was  surrounded  with  the  customary  defence  of  an 
African  village.  A  narrow  dry  ditch  formed  the 
only  boundary  between  Uhha  and  Uvinza.  On 
entering  Uhha,  all  danger  from  Makumbi  vanished. 

We  halted  at  Kawanga,  the  chief  of  which  lost  no 
time  in  making  us  understand  that  he  was  the  great 
Mutware  of  Kimenyi  under  the  king,  and  that  he  was 
the  tribute  gatherer  for  his  Kiha  majesty.  He  declared 
that  he  was  the  only  one  in  Kimenyi — an  eastern  divi- 
sion of  Uhha — who  could  demand  tribute  ;  and  that  it 
would  be  very  satisfactory  to  him,  and  a  saving  of 
trouble  to  ourselves,  if  we  settled  his  claim  of  twelve 
doti  of  good  cloths  at  once.  We  did  not  think  it  the 
best  way  of  proceeding,  knowing  as  we  did  the 
character  of  the  native  African ;  so  we  at  once  pro- 
ceeded to  dimmish  this  demand ;  but,  after  six  hours' 
hot  argument,  the  Mutware  only  reduced  it  by  two. 
This  claim  was  then  settled,  upon  the  understanding 
that  we  should  be  allowed  to  travel  through  Uhha  as 
far  as  the  Eusugi  River  without  being  further  mulcted. 


Nov.  1871.]  UK  A  WEND  I,  UVINZA,  AND  UEHA,  TO  UJIJ1.  387 

November  5th. — Leaving  Kawanga  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  continuing  our  march  over  the  boundless  plains, 
which  were  bleached  white  by  the  hot  equatorial  sun, 
we  were  marching  westward  full  of  pleasant  anti- 
cipations that  we  were  nearing  the  end  of  our  troubles, 
joyfully  congratulating  ourselves  that  within  five  days 
we  should  see  that  which  I  had  come  so  far  from 
civilisation,  and  through  so  many  difficulties,  to  see,  and 
were  about  passing  a  cluster  of  villages,  with  all  the 
confidence  which  men  possess  against  whom  no  one 
had  further  claim  or  a  word  to  say,  when  I  noticed 
two  men  darting  from  a  group  of  natives  who  were 
watching  us,  and  running  towards  the  head  of  the 
Expedition,  with  the  object,  evidently,  of  preventing 
further  progress. 

The  caravan  stopped,  and  I  walked  forward  to 
ascertain  the  cause  from  the  two  natives.  I  was 
greeted  politely  by  the  two  Wahha  with  the  usual 
"  Yambos,"  and  was  then  asked, 

"  Why  does  the  white  man  pass  by  the  village  of 
the  King  of  Uhha  without  salutation  and  a  gift  ? 
Does  not  the  white  man  know  there  lives  a  king  in 
Uhha,  to  whom  the  Wangwana  and  Arabs  pay  some- 
thing for  right  of  passage  ?" 

"  Why,  we  paid  last  night  to  the  chief  of  Kawanga, 
who  informed  us  that  he  was  the  man  deputed  by  the 
King  of  Uhha  to  collect  the  toll." 

"  How  much  did  you  pay  ?" 

"  Ten  doti  of  good  cloth." 

"  Are  you  sure  ?" 

"  Quite  sure.    If  you  ask  him,  he  will  tell  you  so." 

"  Well,"  said  one  of  the  Wahha,  a  fine,  handsome, 
intelligent-looking  youth,  "  it  is  our  duty  to  the  King 
to  halt  you  here  until  we  find  out  the  truth  of  this. 


■366 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Will  you  walk  to  our  village,  and  rest  yourselves 
under  the  shade  of  our  trees  until  we  can  send  mes- 
sengers to  Kawanga  ?" 

"  No  ;  the  sun  is  but  an  hour  high,  and  w^e  have  far 
to  travel ;  hut,  in  order  to  show  you  we  do  not  seek  to 
pass  through  your  country  without  doing  that  which  is 
right,  we  will  rest  where  we  now  stand,  and  we  wall 
send  with  your  messengers  two  of  our  soldiers,  wdio 
will  show  you  the  man  to  whom  we  paid  the  cloth." 

The  messengers  departed  ;  but,  in  the  meantime,  the 
handsome  youth,  who  turned  out  to  be  the  nephewr  of 
the  King,  wmispered  some  order  to  a  lad,  who  imme- 
diately hastened  away,  with  the  speed  of  an  antelope,  to 
the  cluster  of  villages  wdiich  we  had  just  passed.  The 
result  of  this  errand,  as  we  saw  in  a  short  time,  was  the 
approach  of  a  body  of  warriors,  about  fifty  in  number, 
headed  by  a  tall,  fine-looking  man,  who  was  dressed  in 
a  crimgon  robe  called  Joho,  two  ends  of  which  were 
tied  in  a  knot  over  the  left  shoulder ;  a  newT  piece  of 
American  sheeting  was  folded  like  a  turban  around  his 
head,  and  a  large  curved  piece  of  polished  ivory  was 
suspended  to  his  neck.  He  and  his  people  were  all 
armed  wTith  spears,  and  bows  and  arrows,  and  their 
advance  was  marked  with  a  deliberation  that  showed 
they  felt  perfect  confidence  in  any  issue  that  might 
transpire. 

We  were  halted  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Pombwe 
stream,  near  the  village  of  Lukomo,  in  Kimenyi,  Uhha. 

The  gorgeously-dressed  chief  was  a  remarkable  man 
in  appearance.  His  face  was  oval  in  form,  high  cheek- 
bones, eyes  deeply  sunk,  a  prominent  and  bold  fore- 
head, a  fine  nose,  and  a  well-cut  mouth ;  he  was  tall  in 
figure,  and  perfectly  symmetrical. 

When  near  to  us,  he  hailed  me  with  the  words, 


Nov.  1871.]    UKAWENBI,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJ1J1.  389 

"  Yambo,  bana  ? — How  do  you  do,  master  ?"  in  quite 
a  cordial  tone. 

I  replied  cordially  also,  "  Yambo,  mutware  ? — How- 
do  you  do,  chief?" 

We,  myself  and  men,  interchanged  ' 4  Yambos  "  with 
his  warriors  ;  and  there  was  nothing  in  our  first  intro- 
duction to  indicate  that  the  meeting  was  of  a  hostile 
character. 

The  chief  seated  himself,  his  haunches  resting  on  his 
heels,  laying  down  his  bow  and  arrows  by  his  side ; 
his  men  did  likewise. 

1  seated  myself  on  a  bale,  and  each  of  my  men  sat 
down  on  their  loads,  forming  quite  a  semicircle.  The 
Wahha  slightly  outnumbered  my  party ;  but,  while 
they  were  only  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  spears, 
and  knob-sticks,  we  were  armed  with  rifles,  muskets, 
revolvers,  pistols,  and  hatchets. 

All  were  seated,  and  deep  silence  was  maintained  by 
the  assembly.  The  great  plains  around  us  were  as 
still  in  this  bright  noon  as  if  they  were  deserted  of 
all  living  creatures.    Then  the  chief  spoke  : 

"  I  am  Mionvu,  the  great  Mutware  of  Kimenyi,  and 
am  next  to  the  King,  wTho  lives  yonder,"  pointing  to  a 
large  village  near  some  naked  hills  about  ten  miles  to 
the  north.  "  I  have  come  to  talk  with  the  white  man. 
It  has  always  been  the  custom  of  the  Arabs  and  the 
Wangwana  to  make  a  present  to  the  King  when  they 
pass  through  his  country.  Does  not  the  white  man 
mean  to  pay  the  King's  dues?  Why  does  the  white 
man  halt  in  the  road  ?  Why  will  he  not  enter  the 
village  of  Lukomo,  where  there  is  food  and  shade — 
where  we  can  discuss  this  thing  quietly  ?  Does  the 
white  man  mean  to  fight  ?  I  know  wrell  he  is  stronger 
than  we  are.    His  men  have  guns,  and  the  Wahha 


390 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


have  but  bows  and  arrows,  and  spears;  but  Uhha  is 
large,  and  our  villages  are  many.  Let  him  look  about 
him  everywhere — all  is  Uhha,  and  our  country  extends 
much  further  than  he  can  see  or  walk  in  a  day.  The 
King  of  Uhha  is  strong ;  yet  he  wishes  friendship  only 
with  the  white  man.  Will  the  white  man  have  war  or 
peace  ? 

A  deep  murmur  of  assent  followed  this  speech  of 
Mionvu  from  his  people,  and  disapprobation,  blended 
with  a  certain  uneasiness,  from  my  men.  When  about 
replying,  the  words  of  General  Sherman,  which  I 
heard  him  utter  to  the  chiefs  of  the  Arapahoes  and 
Cheyennes  at  North  Platte,  in  1867,  came  to  my  mind ; 
and  something  of  their  spirit  I  embodied  in  my  reply 
to  Mionvu,  Mutware  of  Kimenyi. 

"  Mionvu,  the  great  Mutware,  asks  me  if  I  have 
come  for  war.  When  did  Mionvu  ever  hear  of  white 
men  warring  against  black  men  ?  Mionvu  must  under- 
stand that  the  white  men  are  different  from  the  black. 
White  men  do  not  leave  their  country  to  fight  the 
black  people,  neither  do  they  come  here  to  buy  ivory 
or  slaves.  They  come  to  make  friends  with  black 
people  ;  they  come  to  search  for  rivers,  and  lakes,  and 
mountains ;  they  come  to  discover  what  countries,  what 
peoples,  what  rivers,  what  lakes,  what  forests,  what 
plains,  what  mountains  and  hills  are  in  your  country  ; 
to  know  the  different  animals  that  are  in  the  land  of 
the  black  people,  that,  when  they  go  back,  they 
may  tell  the  white  kings,  and  men,  and  children, 
what  they  have  seen  and  heard  in  the  land  so  far 
from  them.  The  white  people  are  different  from  the 
Arabs  and  Wangwana ;  the  white  people  know  every- 
thing, and  are  very  strong.  When  they  fight,  the 
Arabs  and  the  Wangwana  run  aw^ay.    We  have  great 


Nov.  1871.]    UKAWENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UEEA,  TO  UJIJI.  391 

guns  which  thunder,  and  when  they  shoot  the  earth 
trembles  ;  we  have  guns  which  carry  bullets  further  than 
you  can  see  :  even  with  these  little  tilings  "  (pointing 
to  my  revolvers)  "  I  could  kill  ten  men  quicker  than 
you  could  count.  We  are  stronger  than  the  Wahha. 
Mionvu  has  not  spoken  the  truth,  yet  we  do  not  wish 
to  fight.  I  could  kill  Mionvu  now,  yet  I  talk  to  him 
as  to  a  friend.  I  wish  to  be  a  friend  to  Mionvu,  and 
to  all  black  people.  Will  Mionvu  say  what  I  can 
do  for  him  ?" 

As  these  words  were  translated  to  him — imperfectly, 
I  suppose,  but  still,  intelligibly — the  faces  of  the  Wahha 
showed  how  well  they  appreciated  them.  Once  or 
twice  I  thought  I  detected  something  like  fear,  but  my 
assertions  that  I  desired  peace  and  friendship  with 
them  soon  obliterated  all  such  feelings. 

Mionvu  replied  : 

"  The  white  man  tells  me  he  is  friendly.  Why  does 
he  not  come  to  our  village  ?  Why  does  he  stop  on  the 
road?  The  sun  is  hot.  Mionvu  will  not  speak  here 
any  more.  If  the  white  man  is  a  friend  he  will  come 
to  the  village." 

"  We  must  stop  now.  It  is  noon.  You  have  broken 
our  march.  We  will  go  and  camp  in  your  village,"  I 
said,  at  the  same  time  rising  and  pointing  to  the  men 
to  take  up  their  loads. 

We  were  compelled  to  camp  ;  there  was  no  help  for 
it;  the  messengers  had  not  returned  from  Kawanga. 
Having  arrived  in  his  village,  Mionvu  had  cast  himself 
at  full  length  under  the  scanty  shade  afforded  by  a  few 
trees  within  the  boma.  About  2  p.m.  the  messengers 
returned,  saying  it  was  true  the  chief  of  Kawanga 
had  taken  ten  cloths;  not,  however  for  the  King  of 
Uhha,  but  for  himself! 


392 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Mionvu,  who  evidently  was  keen-witted,  and  knew 
perfectly  what  he  was  about,  now  roused  himself,  and 
began  to  make  miniature  faggots  of  thin  canes,  ten  in 
eacli  faggot,  and  shortly  he  presented  ten  of  these  small 
bundles,  which  together  contained  one  hundred,  to  me, 
saying  each  stick  represented  a  cloth,  and  the  amount 
of  the  "  honga "  required  by  the  King  of  Uhha  was 
one  hundred  cloths  ! — nearly  two  bales ! 

Recovering  from  our  astonishment,  which  was  almost 
indescribable,  we  offered  ten. 

"  Ten  !  to  the  King  of  Uhha  !  Impossible.  You  do 
not  stir  from  Lukomo  until  you  pay  us  one  hundred  !" 
exclaimed  Mionvu,  in  a  significant  manner. 

I  returned  no  answer,  but  went  to  my  hut,  which 
Mionvu  had  cleared  for  my  use,  and  Bombay,  Asmani, 
Mabruki,  and  Chowpereh  were  invited  to  come  to  me 
for  consultation.  Upon  my  asking  them  if  we  could 
not  fight  our  way  through  Uhha,  they  became  terror- 
stricken,  and  Bombay,  in  imploring  accents,  asked  me 
to  think  well  what  I  was  about  to  do,  because  it  was 
useless  to  enter  on  a  war  with  the  Wahha.  "  Uhha  is 
all  a  plain  country  ;  we  cannot  hide  anywhere.  Every 
village  will  rise  all  about  us,  and  how  can  forty-five 
men  fight  thousands  of  people  ?  They  would  kill  us  all 
in  a  few  minutes,  and  how  would  you  ever  reach  Ujiji 
if  you  died  ?  Think  of  it,  my  dear  master,  and  do  not 
throw  your  life  away  for  a  few  rags  of  cloth." 

"  Well,  but,  Bombay,  this  is  robbery.  Shall  we  submit 
to  be  robbed  ?  Shall  we  give  this  fellow  everything 
he  asks  ?  He  might  as  well  ask  me  for  all  the  cloth, 
and  all  my  guns,  without  letting  him  see  that  we  can 
fight.  I  can  kill  Mionvu  and  his  principal  men  myself, 
and  you  can  slay  all  those  howlers  out  there  without 
much  trouble.    If  Mionvu  and  his  principal  were  dead, 


^ov.  1871.]  UK  A  WEND  I,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJ1J1.  3U3 


we  should  not  be  troubled  much,  and  we  could  strike 
south  to  the  Malagarazi,  and  go  west  to  Ujiji." 

"  No,  no,  dear  master,  don't  think  of  it  for  a  moment. 
If  we  went  near  the  Malagarazi  we  should  come  across 
Lokanda-Mira." 

"  Well,  then,  we  will  go  north." 

"  Up  that  way  Uhha  extends  far ;  and  beyond  Uhha 
are  the  Watuta." 

"  Well,  then,  say  what  we  shall  do.  We  must  do 
something  ;  but  we  must  not  be  robbed." 

"  Pay  Mionvu  what  he  asks,  and  let  us  go  away  from 
here.  This  is  the  last  place  we  shall  have  to  pay.  And 
in  four  days  we  shall  be  in  Ujiji." 

u  Did  Mionvu  tell  you  that  this  is  the  last  time  we 
would  have  to  pay  ?" 

"  He  did,  indeed." 

"  What  do  you  say,  Asmani  ?     Shall  we  fight  or 

Asmani's  face  wore  the  usual  smile,  but  he  replied, 
"  I  am  afraid  we  must  pay.  This  is  positively  the  last 
time." 

"  And  you,  Chowpereh  ?" 

"  Pay,  bana ;  it  is  better  to  get  along  quietly  in  this 
country.  If  we  were  strong  enough  they  would  pay 
us.  Ah,  if  we  had  only  two  hundred  guns,  how  these 
Wahha  would  run  !" 

"  What  do  you  say,  Mabruki  ?" 

"  Ah,  master,  dear  master ;  it  is  very  hard,  and 
these  people  are  great  robbers.  I  would  like  to  chop 
their  heads  off,  all ;  so  I  would.  But  you  had  better 
pay.  This  is  the  last  time ;  and  wThat  are  one  hundred 
cloths  to  you  ?" 

"  Well,  then,  Bombay  and  Asmani,  go  to  Mionvu, 
and  offer  him  twenty.    If  he  will  not  take  twenty, 


394 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


give  him  thirty.  If  he  refuses  thirty,  give  him  forty ; 
then  go  up  to  eighty,  slowly.  Make  plenty  of  talk ; 
not  one  doti  more.  I  swear  to  you  I  will  shoot  Mionvu 
if  he  demands  more  than  eighty.  Go,  and  remember 
to  be  wise !" 

I  will  cut  the  matter  short.  At  9  p.m.  sixty-four  doti 
were  handed  over  to  Mionvu,  for  the  King  of  Uhha  ;  six 
doti  for  himself,  and  five  doti  for  his  sub ;  altogether 
seventy- five  doti — a  bale  and  a  quarter !  No  sooner 
had  we  paid  than  they  began  to  fight  amongst  them- 
selves over  the  booty,  and  I  was  in  hopes  that  the 
factions  would  proceed  to  battle,  that  I  might  have 
good  excuse  for  leaving  them,  and  plunging  south  to 
the  jungle  that  I  believed  existed  there,  by  which 
means,  under  its  friendly  cover,  we  might  strike  west. 
But  no,  it  was  only  a  verbose  war,  which  portended 
nothing  more  than  a  noisy  clamor. 

November  6th. — At  dawn  we  were  on  the  road,  very 
silent  and  sad.  Our  stock  of  cloth  was  much  diminished ; 
we  had  nine  bales  left,  sufficient  to  have  taken  us  to  the 
Atlantic  Ocean — aided  by  the  beads,  which  were  yet 
untouched — if  we  practised  economy.  If  I  met  many 
more  like  Mionvu  I  had  not  enough  to  take  me 
to  Ujiji,  and,  though  we  were  said  to  be  so  near, 
Livingstone  seemed  to  me  just  as  far  as  ever. 

We  crossed  the  Pombwe,  and  then  struck  across  a 
slowly-undulating  plain  rising  gradually  to  mountains 
on  our  right,  and  on  our  left  sinking  towards  the  valley 
of  the  Malagarazi,  which  river  was  about  twenty  miles 
away.  Villages  rose  to  our  view  everywhere.  Food 
was  cheap,  milk  was  plentiful,  and  the  butter  good. 

After  a  four  hours'  march,  we  crossed  the  Kanengi 
Biver,  and  entered  the  boma  of  Kahirigi,  inhabited 
by  several  Watusi  and  Wahha.    Here,  we  were  told, 


Nov.  1871.]    UKA  WENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UHJIA,  TO  UJ1JL  395 

lived  the  King  of  Uhha's  brother.  This  announcement 
was  anything  but  welcome,  and  I  began  to  suspect  I 
had  fallen  into  another  hornet's  nest.  We  had  not 
rested  two  hours  before  two  Wangwana  entered  my 
tent,  who  were  slaves  of  Thani  bin  Abdullah,  our 
dandified  friend  of  Unyanyembe.  These  men  came,  on 
the  part  of  the  king's  brother,  to  claim  the  Hoxga  ! 
The  king's  brother  demanded  thirty  doti !    Half  a  bale  ! 

If  I  only  dared  publish  all  the  wild,  furious  thoughts 
that  raged  in  my  mind  when  this  was  announced  I 
should  be  shocked  myself  at  some  future  calm  moment, 
I  dare  say.  But  I  was  angry.  Angry !  angry  is  not 
the  word.  I  was  savage — rendered  desperately  savage  ! 
Able,  ready,  and  willing  to  fight  and  die,  but  not  to  be 
halted  by  a  set  of  miserable  naked  robbers !  Within 
sight  of  Ujiji,  one  may  almost  say  —  but  four  days 
march  from  this  white  man  whom  I  take  to  be  Living- 
stone, unless  there  is  a  duplicate  of  him  travelling 
about  in  these  countries.  Merciful  Providence  !  What 
shall  I  do  ? 

We  had  been  told  by  Mionvu  that  the  honga  of 
Uhha  was  settled — and  now  here  is  another  demand 
from  the  King's  brother  !  It  is  the  second  time  the  lie 
has  been  told,  and  we  have  twice  been  deceived.  We 
shall  be  deceived  no  more. 

These  two  men  informed  us  there  were  five  more 
chiefs,  living  but  two  hours  from  each  other,  who  would 
exact  tribute,  or  black-mail,  like  those  we  had  seen. 
Knowing  this  much,  I  felt  a  certain  calm.  It  was  far 
better  to  know  the  worst  at  once.  Five  more  chiefs 
with  their  demands  would  assuredly  ruin  us.  In  view 
of  which,  what  is  to  be  done  ?  How  am  I  to  reach 
Livingstone,  without  being  beggared  ? 

Dismissing  the  men,  I  called  Bombay,  and  told  him 


396 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  assist  Asmani  in  settling  the  honga — "  as  cheaply 
as  possible."  I  then  lit  my  pipe,  put  on  the  cap  oi 
consideration,  and  began  to  think.  Within  half  an  hour, 
I  had  made  a  plan,  which  was  to  be  attempted  to  be  put 
in  execution  that  very  night. 

I  summoned  the  two  slaves  of  Thani  bin  Abdullah, 
after  the  honga  had  been  settled  to  everybody's  satis- 
faction— though  the  profoundest  casuistries  and  diplo- 
matic arguments  failed  to  reduce  it  lower  than  twenty- 
six  doti — and  began  asking  them  about  the  possibility 
of  evading  the  tribute-taking  Wahha  ahead. 

This  rather  astonished  them  at  first,  and  they  declared 
it  to  be  impossible ;  but,  finally,  after  being  pressed, 
they  replied,  that  one  of  their  number  should  guide  us 
at  midnight,  or  a  little  after,  into  the  jungle  which 
grew  on  the  frontiers  of  Uhha  and  Uvinza.  By 
keeping  a  direct  west  course  through  this  jungle  until 
we  came  to  Ukaranga  we  might  be  enabled — we  were 
told — to  travel  through  Uhha  without  further  trouble. 
If  I  were  willing  to  pay  the  guide  twelve  doti,  and  if  I 
were  able  to  impose  silence  on  my  people  while  passing 
through  the  sleeping  village,  the  guide  was  positive  I 
could  reach  Ujiji  without  paying  another  doti.  It  is 
needless  to  add,  that  I  accepted  the  proffered  assistance 
at  such  a  price  with  joy. 

But  there  was  much  to  be  done.  Provisions  were  to 
be  purchased,  sufficient  to  last  four  days,  for  the  tramp 
through  the  jungle,  and  men  were  at  once  sent  with 
cloth  to  purchase  grain  at  any  price.  Fortune  favoured 
us,  for  before  8  p.m.  we  had  enough  for  six  days. 

November  7th. — I  did  not  go  to  sleep  at  all  last 
night,  but  a  little  after  midnight,  as  the  moon  was 
beginning  to  show  itself,  by  gangs  of  four,  the  men 
stole  quietly  out  of  the  village ;  and  by  3  a.m.  the  entire 


Nov.  1871.]    UKAWENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UIIHA,  TO  UJIJI.  397 

Expedition  was  outside  the  boma,  and  not  the  slightest 
alarm  had  been  made.  After  whistling  to  the  new 
guide,  the  Expedition  began  to  move  in  a  southern 
direction  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Kanengi  River. 
After  an  hour's  march  in  this  direction,  we  struck 
west,  across  the  grassy  plain,  and  maintained  it,  despite 
the  obstacles  we  encountered,  which  were  sore  enough 
to  naked  men.  The  bright  moon  lighted  our  path  : 
dark  clouds  now  and  then  cast  immense  long  shadows 
over  the  deserted  and  silent  plains,  and  the  moonbeams 
were  almost  obscured,  and  at  such  times  our  position 
seemed  awful — 

"  Till  the  moon, 
Rising  in  clouded  majesty,  at  length, 
Apparent  queen,  unveiled  her  peerless  light, 
And  o'er  the  dark  her  silver  mantle  threw." 

Bravely  toiled  the  men,  without  murmur,  though  their 
legs  were  bleeding  from  the  cruel  grass.  "  Ambrosial 
morn  "  at  last  appeared,  with  all  its  beautiful  and  lovely 
features.  Heaven  was  born  anew  to  us,  with  com- 
forting omens  and  cheery  promise.  The  men,  though 
fatigued  at  the  unusual  travel,  sped  forward  with  quicker 
pace  as  daylight  broke,  until,  at  8  a.m.,  we  sighted  the 
swift  Rusugi  River,  when  a  halt  was  ordered  in  a 
clump  of  jungle  near  it,  for  breakfast  and  rest.  Both 
banks  of  the  river  were  alive  with  buffalo,  eland,  and 
antelope,  but,  though  the  sight  was  very  tempting,  we 
did  not  fire,  because  we  dared  not.  The  report  of  a  gun 
would  have  alarmed  the  whole  country.  I  preferred 
my  coffee,  and  the  contentment  which  my  mind  expe- 
rienced at  our  success. 

An  hour  after  we  had  rested,  some  natives,  carrying 
salt  from  the  Malagarazi,  were  seen  coming  up  the  right 
bank  of  the  river.    When  abreast  of  our  hiding-place 


398 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


they  detected  us,  and  dropping  their  salt-bags,  the}' 
took  to  their  heels  at  once,  shouting  out  as  they  ran,  to 
alarm  some  villages  that  appeared  about  four  miles 
north  of  us.  The  men  were  immediately  ordered  to 
take  up  their  loads,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  had  crossed 
the  Rusugi,  and  were  making  direct  for  a  bamboo 
jungle  that  appeared  in  our  front.  Almost  as  soon  as 
we  entered,  a  weak-brained  woman  raised  a  series  ot 
piercing  yells.  The  men  were  appalled  at  this  noisy 
demcnstration,  which  would  call  down  upon  our  heads 
the  vengeance  of  the  Wahha  for  evading  the  tribute,  to 
which  they  thought  themselves  entitled.  In  half  an 
hour  we  should  have  hundreds  of  howling  savages 
about  us  in  the  jungle,  and  probably  a  general  mas- 
sacre would  ensue.  The  woman  screamed  fearfully, 
again  and  again,  for  no  cause  whatever.  Some  of  the 
men,  with  the  instinct  of  self-preservation,  at  once 
dropped  their  bales  and  loads,  and  vanished  into  the 
jungle.  The  guide  came  rushing  back  to  me,  imploring 
me  to  stop  her  noise.  The  woman's  husband,  livid  with 
rage  and  fear,  drew  his  sword,  and  asked  my  permission 
to  cut  her  head  off  at  once.  Had  I  given  the  least 
signal,  the  woman  had  paid  with  her  life  for  her  folly. 
I  attempted  to  hush  her  cries  by  putting  my  hand  over 
her  mouth,  but  she  violently  wrestled  with  me,  and 
continued  her  cries  worse  than  ever.  There  remained 
nothing  else  for  me  to  do  but  try  the  virtue  of  my  whip 
over  her  shoulders.  I  asked  her  to  desist  after  the  first 
blow.  "  No  !"  She  continued  her  insane  cries  with  in- 
creased force  and  volume.  Again  my  whip  descended 
on  her  shoulders.  "  No,  no,  no  !"  Another  blow.  "  Will 
you  hush  ?"  "  No,  no,  no  !"  louder  and  louder  she  cried, 
and  faster  and  faster  I  showered  the  blows  for  the 
taming  of  this  shrew.     However,  seeing  I  was  as 


Nov.  1871.]    TJKAWEXDI,  UVINZA,  AND  I'll  1 1  A,  TO  UJIJI.  399 


determined  to  flog  as  she  was  to  cry,  she  desisted  before 
the  tenth  blow,  and  became  silent.  A  cloth  was  folded 
over  her  mouth,  and  her  arms  were  tied  behind  her  ; 
and  in  a  few  moments,  the  runaways  having  returned 
to  their  duty,  the  Expedition  moved  forward  again  with 
redoubled  pace.  On,  on,  we  kept  steadily  until,  at  1  p.m., 
we  sighted  the  little  lake  of  Musunya,  as  wearied  as 
possible  with  our  nine  hours'  march. 

Lake  Musunya  is  one  of  the  many  circular  basins 
found  in  this  part  of  Uhha.  There  was  quite  a  group 
of  them.  The  more  correct  term  for  these  lakes  would 
be  immense  pools.  In  the  Masika  season,  Lake  Mu- 
sunya must  extend  to  three  or  four  miles  in  length  by 
two  in  breadth.  It  swarms  with  hippopotami,  and  its 
shores  abound  with  noble  game. 

We  were  very  quiet,  as  may  be  imagined,  in  our 
bivouac ;  neither  tent  nor  hut  was  raised,  nor  was  fire 
kindled,  so  that,  in  case  of  pursuit,  we  could  move  off 
without  delay.  I  kept  my  "Winchester  rifle  (the  gift  of 
my  friend  Mr.  Morris,  and  a  rare  gift  it  was  for  such  a 
crisis)  with  its  magazine  full,  and  two  hundred  car- 
tridges in  a  bag  slung  over  my  shoulders.  Each 
soldier's  gun  was  also  ready  and  loaded,  and  we  retired 
to  sleep  our  fatigues  off  with  a  feeling  of  perfect 
security. 

November  8th. — Long  before  dawn  appeared,  we  were 
on  the  march,  and,  as  daylight  broke,  we  emerged  from 
the  bamboo  jungle,  and  struck  across  the  naked  plain 
of  Uhha,  once  more  passing  several  large  pools  by  the 
way — far-embracing  prospects  of  undulating  country, 
with  here  and  there  a  characteristic  clump  of  trees 
relieving  the  general  nudity  of  the  whole.  Hour  after 
hour  we  toiled  on,  across  the  rolling  land  waves,  the 
sun  shining  with  all  his  wonted  African  fervor,  but 


400 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


with  its  heat  slightly  tempered  by  the  welcome  breezes, 
which  came  laden  with  the  fragrance  of  young  grass, 
and  perfume  of  strange  flowers  of  various  hues,  that 
flecked  the  otherwise  pale-green  sheet  which  extended 
60  far  around  us. 

We  arrived  at  the  Rugufu  River — not  the  Ukawendi 
Rugufu,  but  the  northern  stream  of  that  name,  a  tri- 
butary of  the  Malagarazi.  It  was  a  broad  shallow 
stream,  and  sluggish,  with  an  almost  imperceptible 
flow  south-west.  While  we  halted  in  the  deep  shade 
afforded  by  a  dense  clump  of  jungle,  close  to  the  right 
bank,  resting  awhile  before  continuing  our  journey,  I 
distinctly  heard  a  sound  as  of  distant  thunder  in  the 
west.  Upon  asking  if  it  were  thunder,  I  was  told  it  was 
Kabogo. 

"  Kabogo  ?  what  is  that  ?" 

"  It  is  a  great  mountain  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Tanganika,  full  of  deep  holes,  into  which  the  water 
rolls ;  and  when  there  is  wind  on  the  Tanganika,  there 
is  a  sound  like  mvuha  (thunder).  Many  boats  have 
been  lost  there,  and  it  is  a  custom  with  Arabs  and 
natives  to  throw  cloth — Merikani  and  Kaniki — and 
especially  white  (Merikani)  beads,  to  appease  the 
mulungu  (god)  of  the  lake.  Those  who  throw  beads 
generally  get  past  without  trouble,  but  those  who  do 
not  throw  beads  into  the  lake  get  lost,  and  are  drowned. 
Oh,  it  is  a  dreadful  place  !"  This  story  was  told  me  by 
the  ever-smiling  guide  Asmani,  and  was  corroborated 
by  other  former  mariners  of  the  lake  whom  I  had 
with  me. 

At  the  least,  this  place  where  we  halted  for  dinner, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Rugufu  River,  is  eighteen  and 
a  half  hours,  or  forty-six  miles,  from  Ujiji ;  and,  as 
Kabogo  is  said  to  be  near  Uguhha,  it  must  be  over 


Nov.  1871.]  UK  A  WEND  I,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJI.  401 

sixty  miles  from  Ujiji ;  therefore  the  sound  of  the  thun- 
dering surf,  which  is  said  to  roll  into  the  caves  of 
Kabogo,  was  heard  by  us  at  a  distance  of  over  one 
hundred  miles  away  from  them. 

Continuing  our  journey  for  three  hours  longer, 
through  thin  forests,  over  extensive  beds  of  primitive 
rock,  among  fields  of  large  boulders  thickly  strewn 
about,  passing  by  numerous  herds  of  buffalo,  giraffe,  and 
zebra,  over  a  quaking  quagmire  which  resembled  peat, 
we  arrived  at  the  small  stream  of  Sunuzzi,  to  a  camp- 
ing place  only  a  mile  removed  from  a  large  settlement 
of  Wahha.  But  we  were  buried  in  the  depths  of  a 
great  forest — no  road  was  in  the  vicinity,  no  noise  was 
made,  deep  silence  was  preserved  ;  nor  were  fires  lit. 
We  might  therefore  rest  tranquilly  secure,  certain  that 
we  should  not  be  disturbed.  To-morrow  morning  the 
kirangozi  has  promised  we  shall  be  out  of  Uhha,  and  if 
we  travel  on  to  Niamtaga,  in  Ukaranga,  the  same  day, 
the  next  day  would  see  us  in  Ujiji.  Patience,  my  soul ! 
A  few  hours  more,  then  the  end  of  all  this  will  be 
known !  I  shall  be  face  to  face  with  that  white  man 
with  the  white  hairs  on  his  face,  whoever  he  is ! 

November  §th. — Two  hours  before  dawn  we  left  our 
camp  on  the  Sunuzzi  River,  and  struck  through  the 
forest  in  a  north-by-west  direction,  having  muzzled  our 
goats  previously,  lest,  by  their  bleating,  they  might 
betray  us.  This  was  a  mistake  which  might  have 
ended  tragically,  for  just  as  the  eastern  sky  began  to 
assume  a  pale  greyish  tint,  we  emerged  from  the  jungle 
on  the  high  road.  The  guide  thought  we  had  passed 
Uhha,  and  set  up  a  shout  which  was  echoed  by  every 
member  of  the  caravan,  and  marched  onward  with  new 
vigor  and  increased  energy,  when  plump  we  came 
to  the  outskirts  of  a  village,  the  inhabitants  of  which 

2  D 


402 


SOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


were  beginning  to  stir.  Silence  was  called  for  at  once, 
and  the  Expedition  halted  immediately.  I  walked 
forward  to  the  front  to  advise  with  the  guide.  He  did 
not  know  what  to  do.  There  was  no  time  to  consider, 
so  I  ordered  the  goats  to  be  slaughtered  and  left  on  the 
road,  and  the  guide  to  push  on  boldly  through  the 
village.  The  chickens  also  had  their  throats  cut ;  after 
which  the  Expedition  resumed  the  march  quickly  and 
silently,  led  by  the  guide,  who  had  orders  to  plunge 
into  the  jungle  south  of  the  road.  1  staid  until  the 
last  man  had  disappeared ;  then,  after  preparing  my 
Winchester,  brought  up  the  rear,  followed  by  my  gun- 
bearers  with  their  stock  of  ammunition.  As  we  were 
about  disappearing  beyond  the  last  hut,  a  man  darted 
out  of  his  hut,  and  uttered  an  exclamation  of  alarm,  and 
loud  voices  were  heard  as  if  in  dispute.  But  in  a  short 
time  we  were  in  the  depths  of  the  jungle,  hurrying 
away  from  the  road  in  a  southern  direction,  and  edging 
slightly  westward.  Once  I  thought  we  were  pursued, 
and  I  halted  behind  a  tree  to  check  our  foes  if  they 
persisted  in  following  us  ;  but  a  few  minutes  proved  to 
me  that  we  were  not  pursued.  After  half-an-hour's 
march  we  again  turned  our  faces  westward.  It  was 
broad  daylight  now,  and  our  eyes  were  delighted  with 
most  picturesque  and  sequestered  little  valleys,  where 
wild  fruit-trees  grew,  and  rare  flowers  blossomed,  and 
tiny  brooks  tumbled  over  polished  pebbles — where  all 
was  bright  and  beautiful — until,  finally,  wading  through 
one  pretty  pure  streamlet,  whose  soft  murmurs  we  took 
for  a  gentle  welcome,  we  passed  the  boundary  of 
wicked  Uhha,  and  had  entered  Ukaranga  ! — an  event 
that  was  hailed  with  extravagant  shouts  of  joy. 

Presently  we  found  the  smooth  road,  and  we  trod  gaily 
with  elastic  steps,  with  limbs  quickened  for  the  march 


Nov.  1871.]  UKA  WEND  I,  UV1NZA,  AND  TJHHA,  TO  UJIJL  403 

which  we  all  knew  to  be  drawing  near  its  end.  What 
cared  we  now  for  the  difficulties  we  had  encountered — 
for  the  rough  and  cruel  forests,  for  the  thorny  thickets 
and  hurtful  grass,  for  the  jangle  of  all  savagedom,  of 
which  we  had  been  the  joyless  audience  !  To-morrow ! 
Ay,  the  great  day  draws  nigh,  and  we  may  well 
laugh  and  sing  while  in  this  triumphant  mood.  We 
have  been  sorely  tried  ;  we  have  been  angry  with  each 
other  when  vexed  by  troubles,  but  we  forget  all  these 
now,  and  there  is  no  face  but  is  radiant  with  the 
happiness  we  have  all  deserved. 

We  made  a  short  halt  at  noon,  for  rest  and  refresh- 
ment. I  was  shown  the  hills  from  which  the  Tanganika 
could  be  seen,  which  bounded  the  valley  of  the  Liuche 
on  the  east.  I  could  not  contain  myself  at  the  sight  of 
them.  Even  with  this  short  halt  I  was  restless  and 
unsatisfied.  We  resumed  the  march  again.  I  spurred 
my  men  forward  with  the  promise  that  to-morrow 
should  see  their  reward.  Fish  and  beer  should  be 
given  them,  as  much  as  they  could  eat  and  drink. 

We  were  in  sight  of  the  villages  of  the  Wakaranga ; 
the  people  caught  sight  of  us,  and  manifested  consider- 
able excitement.  I  sent  men  ahead  to  reassure  them, 
and  they  came  forward  to  greet  us.  This  was  so  new 
and  welcome  to  us,  so  different  from  the  turbulent 
Wavinza  and  the  black-mailers  of  Uhha,  that  we  were 
melted.  But  we  had  no  time  to  loiter  by  the  way  to 
indulge  our  joy.  I  was  impelled  onward  by  my  almost 
uncontrollable  feelings.  I  wished  to  resolve  my  doubts 
and  fears.  Was  he  still  there  ?  Had  he  heard  of  my 
coming  ?    Would  he  fly  ? 

How  beautiful  Ukaranga  appears  !  The  green  hills  are 
crowned  by  clusters  of  straw-thatched  cones.  The  hills 
rise  and  fall ;  here  denuded  and  cultivated,  there  in 


404 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


pasturage,  here  timbered,  yonder  swarming  with  huts. 
The  country  has  somewhat  the  aspect  of  Maryland. 

We  cross  the  Mkuti,  a  glorious  little  river !  We 
ascend  the  opposite  bank,  and  stride  through  the  forest 
like  men  who  have  done  a  deed  of  which  they  may  be 
proud.  We  have  already  travelled  nine  hours,  and  the 
sun  is  sinking  rapidly  towards  the  west ;  yet,  appa- 
rently, we  are  not  fatigued. 

We  reach  the  outskirts  of  Niamtaga,  and  we  hear 
drums  beat.  The  people  are  flying  into  the  woods  ; 
they  desert  their  villages,  for  they  take  us  to  be  Ruga- 
Ruga — the  forest  thieves  of  Mirambo,  who,  after  con- 
quering the  Arabs  of  Unyanyembe,  are  coming  to 
fight  the  Arabs  of  Ujiji.  Even  the  King  flies  from  his 
village,  and  every  man,  woman,  and  child,  terror- 
stricken,  follows  him.  We  enter  into  it  and  quietly 
take  possession,  and  my  tent  is  set.  Finally,  the  word 
is  bruited  about  that  we  are  Wangwana,  from  Unyan- 
yembe. 

"  Well,  then,  is  Mirambo  dead  ?"  they  ask. 
"  No,"  we  answer. 

"  Well,  how  did  you  come  to  Ukaranga  ?" 

"  By  way  of  Ukonongo,  Ukawendi,  and  Uhha." 

"Oh — hi-le!"  Then  they  laugh  heartily  at  their 
fright,  and  begin  to  make  excuses.  The  King  is  intro- 
duced to  me,  and  he  says  he  had  only  gone  to  the 
woods  in  order  to  attack  us  again — he  meant  to  have 
come  back  and  killed  us  all,  if  we  had  been  Ruga- 
Ruga.  But  then  we  know  the  poor  King  was  terribly 
frightened,  and  would  never  have  dared  to  return,  had 
we  been  Ruga-Ruga — not  he.  We  are  not,  however, 
in  a  mood  to  quarrel  with  him  about  an  idiomatic 
phrase  peculiar  to  him,  but  rather  take  him  by  the 
band  and  shake  it  well,  and  say  we  are  so  very  glad  to 


Nov.  1871.]  UKA  WENDIy  UVINZA,  AND  UHIIA,  TO  UJIJL  *05 

see  him.  And  he  shares  in  our  pleasure,  and  imme- 
diately three  of  the  fattest  sheep,  pots  of  beer,  flour, 
and  honey  are  brought  to  us  as  a  gift,  and  I  make  him 
happier  still  with  two  of  the  finest  cloths  I  have  in 
my  bales ;  and  thus  a  friendly  pact  is  entered  into 
between  us. 

While  I  write  my  diary  of  this  day's  proceedings,  1 
tell  Selim  to  lay  out  my  new  flannel  suit,  to  oil  my 
boots,  to  chalk  my  helmet,  and  fold  a  new  puggaree 
around  it,  that  I  may  make  as  presentable  an  appear- 
ance as  possible  before  the  white  man  with  the  grey 
beard,  and  before  the  Arabs  of  Ujiji ;  for  the  clothes  I 
have  worn  through  jungle  and  forest  are  in  tatters. 
Good-night ;  only  let  one  day  come  again,  and  we  shall 
see  what  we  shall  see. 

November  10th.  Friday.— -The  236th  day  from  Baga- 
moyo,  and  the  51st  day  from  Unyanyembe.  General 
direction  to  Ujiji,  west-by-south.  Time  of  march,  six 
hours. 

It  is  a  happy,  glorious  morning.  The  air  is  fresh 
and  cool.  The  sky  lovingly  smiles  on  the  earth  and 
her  children.  The  deep  woods  are  crowned  in  bright 
green  leafage ;  the  water  of  the  Mkuti,  rushing  under 
the  emerald  shade  afforded  by  the  bearded  banks,  seems 
to  challenge  us  for  the  race  to  Ujiji,  with  its  continuous 
brawl. 

We  are  all  outside  the  village  cane  fence,  every  man 
of  us  looking  as  spruce,  as  neat,  and  happy  as  when  we 
embarked  on  the  dhows  at  Zanzibar,  which  seems  to  us 
to  have  been  ages  ago — we  have  witnessed  and  ex- 
perienced so  much. 

"  Forward  !" 

"  Ay  Wallah,  ay  Wallah,  bana  yango  !"  and  the  light- 
hearted  braves  stride  away  at  a  rate  which  must  soon 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


bring  us  within  view  of  Ujiji.  We  ascend  a  hill  over- 
grown with  bamboo,  descend  into  a  ravine  through 
which  dashes  an  impetuous  little  torrent,  ascend 
another  short  hill,  then,  along  a  smooth  footpath 
running  across  the  slope  of  a  long  ridge,  we  push 
on  as  only  eager,  light-hearted  men  can  do. 

In  two  hours  I  am  warned  to  prepare  for  a  view  of 
the  Tanganika,  for,  from  the  top  of  a  steep  mountain 
the  kirangozi  says  I  can  see  it.  I  almost  vent  the 
feelings  of  my  heart  in  cries.  But  wait,  we  must 
behold  it  first.  And  we  press  forward  and  up  the  hill 
breathlessly,  lest  the  grand  scene  hasten  away.  We 
are  at  last  on  the  summit.  Ah  !  not  yet  can  it  be  seen. 
A  little  further  on — just  yonder,  oh  !  there  it  is — a 
silvery  gleam.  I  merely  catch  sight  of  it  between  the 
trees,  and — but  here  it  is  at  last !  True — the  Tanga- 
nika !  and  there  are  the  blue-black  mountains  of 
Ugoma  and  Ukaramba.  An  immense  broad  sheet,  a 
burnished  bed  of  silver — lucid  canopy  of  blue  above — 
lofty  mountains  are  its  valances,  palm  forests  form  its 
fringes  !  The  Tanganika  ! — Hurrah !  and  the  men 
respond  to  the  exultant  cry  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  with 
the  lungs  of  Stentors,  and  the  great  forests  and  the 
hills  seem  to  share  in  our  triumph. 

"  Was  this  the  place  where  Burton  and  SpeKe  stood, 
Bombay,  when  they  saw  the  lake  first  ?" 

"  I  don't  remember,  master ;  it  was  somewhere  about 
here,  I  think." 

u  Poor  fellows  !  The  one  was  half-paralyzed,  the 
other  half-blind,"  said  Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  when 
he  described  Burton  and  Speke's  arrival  in  view  of  the 
Tanganika. 

And  I  ?  Well,  I  am  so  happy  that,  were  I  quite 
paralyzed  and  blinded,  I  think  that  at  this  supreme 


Nov.  1871.]    UK  A  WEND  J,  UV1NZA,  AND  TIE  HA,  TO  UJIJI.  407 

moment  I  could  take  up  my  bed  and  walk,  and 
all  blindness  would  cease  at  once.  Fortunately,  bow- 
ever,  I  am  quite  well ;  I  bave  not  suffered  a  day's 
sickness  since  the  day  I  left  Unyanyembe.  How 
much  would  Shaw  be  willing  to  give  to  be  in  my  place 
now  ?  Who  is  happiest — he,  revelling  in  the  luxuries 
of  Unyanyembe,  or  I,  standing  on  the  summit  of  this 
mountain,  looking  down  with  glad  eyes  and  proud  heart 
on  the  Tanganika  ? 

We  are  descending  the  western  slope  of  the  mountain, 
with  the  valley  of  the  Liuche  before  us.  Something 
like  an  hour  before  noon  we  have  gained  the  thick 
matete  brake,  which  grows  on  both  banks  of  the  river  ; 
we  wade  through  the  clear  stream,  arrive  on  the  other 
side,  emerge  out  of  the  brake,  and  the  gardens  of  the 
Wajiji  are  around  us — a  perfect  marvel  of  vegetable 
wealth.  Details  escape  my  hasty  and  partial  obser- 
vation. I  am  almost  overpowered  with  my  own  emo- 
tions. I  notice  the  graceful  palrns,  neat  plots,  green 
with  vegetable  plants,  and  small  villages  surrounded 
with  frail  fences  of  the  matete-cane. 

We  push  on  rapidly,  lest  the  news  of  our  coming 
might  reach  the  people  of  Bunder  Ujiji  before  we  come 
in  sight,  and  are  ready  for  them.  We  halt  at  a  little 
brook,  then  ascend  the  long  slope  of  a  naked  ridge,  the 
very  last  of  the  myriads  we  have  crossed.  This  alone 
prevents  us  from  seeing  the  lake  in  all  its  vastness. 
We  arrive  at  the  summit,  travel  across  and  arrive  at  its 
western  rim,  and — pause,  reader — the  port  of  Ujiji  is 
below  us,  embowered  in  the  palms,  only  five  hundred 
yards  from  us !  At  this  grand  moment  we  do  not 
think  of  the  hundreds  of  miles  we  have  marched,  of  the 
hundreds  of  hills  that  we  have  ascended  and  descended, 
of  the  many  forests  we  have  traversed,  of  the  jungles  and 


408 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


thickets  that  annoyed  us,  of  the  fervid  salt  plains  that 
blistered  our  feet,  of  the  hot  suns  that  scorched  us,  nor 
the  dangers  and  difficulties,  now  happily  surmounted. 
At  last  the  sublime  hour  has  arrived  ! — our  dreams,  our 
hopes,  and  anticipations  are  now  about  to  be  realized  ! 
Our  hearts  and  our  feelings  are  with  our  eyes,  as  we 
peer  into  the  palms  and  try  to  make  out  in  which  hut 
or  house  lives  the  white  man  with  the  grey  beard  we 
heard  about  on  the  Malagarazi. 

"  Unfurl  the  flags,  and  load  your  guns !" 

"  Ay  Wallah,  ay  Wallah,  bana  !"  respond  the  men, 
eagerly. 

"  One,  two,  three — fire  !" 

A  volley  from  nearly  fifty  guns  roars  like  a  salute 
from  a  battery  of  artillery  :  we  shall  note  its  effect 
presently  on  the  peaceful-looking  village  below. 

"  Now,  kirangozi,  hold  the  white  man's  flag  up 
high,  and  let  the  Zanzibar  flag  bring  up  the  rear. 
And  you  men  keep  close  together,  and  keep  firing 
until  we  halt  in  the  market-place,  or  before  the  white 
man's  house.  You  have  said  to  me  often  that  you 
could  smell  the  fish  of  the  Tanganika — I  can  smell  the 
fish  of  the  Tanganika  now.  There  are  fish,  and  beer, 
and  a  long  rest  waiting  for  you.    March  !" 

Before  we  had  gone  a  hundred  yards  our  repeated 
volleys  had  the  effect  desired.  We  had  awakened  Ujiji 
to  the  knowledge  that  a  caravan  was  coming,  and  the 
people  were  witnessed  rushing  up  in  hundreds  to  meet 
us.  The  mere  sight  of  the  flags  informed  every  one 
immediately  that  we  were  a  caravan,  but  the  American 
flag  borne  aloft  by  gigantic  Asmani,  whose  face  was 
one  vast  smile  on  this  day,  rather  staggered  them  at 
first.  However,  many  of  the  people  who  now  ap- 
proached us  remembered  the  flag.    They  had  seen  it 


Nov.  1871.J  UKAWENDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UEI1A,  TO  UJIJI.  409 


float  above  the  American  Consulate,  and  from  the  mast- 
head of  many  a  ship  in  the  harbor  of  Zanzibar,  and 
they  were  soon  heard  welcoming  the  beautiful  flag  with 
cries  of  "Bindera  Kisungu!" — a  white  man's  flag' 
"  Bindera  Merikani!" — the  American  flag  ! 

Then  we  were  surrounded  by  them :  by  Wajiji, 
Wanyamwezi,  Wangwana,  Warundi,  Waguhha,  Wa- 
manyuema  and  Arabs,  and  were  almost  deafened  with 
the  shouts  of  <k  Yambo,  yambo,  bana  !  Yambo,  bana ! 
Yambo,  bana !"  To  all  and  each  of  my  men  the 
welcome  was  given. 

We  were  now  about  three  hundred  yards  from  the 
village  of  Ujiji,  and  the  crowds  are  dense  about  me. 
Suddenly  I  hear  a  voice  on  my  right  say, 

"  Good  morning,  sir  !" 

Startled  at  hearing  this  greeting  in  the  midst  of  such 
a  crowd  of  black  people,  I  turn  sharply  around  in  search 
of  the  man,  and  see  him  at  my  side,  with  the  blackest 
of  faces,  but  animated  and  joyous — a  man  dressed  in  a 
long  white  shirt,  with  a  turban  of  American  sheeting 
around  his  woolly  head,  and  I  ask : 

"  Who  the  mischief  are  you  ?" 

"  I  am  Susi,  the  servant  of  Dr.  Livingstone," 
said  he,  smiling,  and  showing  a  gleaming  row  of 
teeth. 

"  What !    Is  Dr.  Livingstone  here  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir." 

"  In  this  village  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir." 

"  Are  you  sure  ?" 

"  Sure,  sure,  sir.    Why,  I  leave  him  just  now." 
uGood  morning,  sir,"  said  another  voice. 
"  Hallo,"  said  I,  "  is  this  another  one  ?" 
"  Yes,  sir." 


410 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


u  Well,  what  is  your  name  ?" 
"  My  name  is  Chumah,  sir.'' 

u  What !  are  you  Chumah,  the  friend  of  Wekotani  ?" 

"  Yes,  sir." 

"  And  is  the  Doctor  well  ?" 
"  Not  very  well,  sir." 
"  Where  has  he  been  so  long  ?" 
"  In  Manyuema." 

i(  Now,  you  Susi,  run,  and  tell  the  Doctor  I  am 
coming." 

"  Yes,  sir,"  and  off  he  darted  like  a  madman. 

But  by  this  time  we  were  within  two  hundred  yards 
of  the  village,  and  the  multitude  was  getting  denser, 
and  almost  preventing  our  march.  Flags  and  streamers 
were  out ;  Arabs  and  Wangwana  were  pushing  their 
way  through  the  natives  in  order  to  greet  us,  for, 
according  to  their  account,  we  belonged  to  them.  But 
the  great  wonder  of  all  was,  "  How  did  you  come  from 
Unyanyembe  ?" 

Soon  Susi  came  running  back,  and  asked  me  my 
name ;  he  had  told  the  Doctor  that  I  was  coming,  but 
the  Doctor  was  too  surprised  to  believe  him,  and,  when 
the  Doctor  asked  him  my  name,  Susi  was  rather 
staggered. 

But,  during  Susi's  absence,  the  news  had  been  con- 
veyed to  the  Doctor  that  it  was  surely  a  white  man 
that  was  coming,  whose  guns  were  firing  and  whose 
flag  could  be  seen  ;  and  the  great  Arab  magnates  of 
Ujiji — Mohammed  bin  Sali,  Sayd  bin  Majid,  Abid  bin 
Suliman,  Mohammed  bin  Gharib,  and  others — had 
gathered  together  before  the  Doctor's  house,  and  the 
Doctor  had  come  out  from  his  veranda  to  discuss  the 
matter  and  await  my  arrival. 

In  the  meantime,  the  head  of  the  Expedition  had 


Nov.  1871.]  UKAWEND1,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJI.  411 


halted,  and  the  kirangozi  was  out  of  the  ranks,  holding 
his  flag  aloft,  and  Selim  said  to  me,  "  I  see  the  Doctor, 
sir.    Oh,  what  an  old  man  !    He  has  got  a  white  beard." 

And  I  what  would  I  not  have  given  for  a  bit 

of  friendly  wilderness,  where,  unseen,  I  might  vent  my 
joy  in  some  mad  freak,  such  as  idiotically  biting  my 
hand,  turning  a  somersault,  or  slashing  at  trees,  in 
order  to  allay  those  exciting  feelings  that  were  well- 
nigh  uncontrollable.  My  heart  beats  fast,  but  I  must 
not  let  my  face  betray  my  emotions,  lest  it  shall 
detract  from  the  dignity  of  a  white  man  appearing 
under  such  extraordinary  circumstances. 

So  I  did  that  which  I  thought  was  most  dignified.  I 
pushed  back  the  crowds,  and,  passing  from  the  rear, 
walked  down  a  living  avenue  of  people,  until  I  came  in 
front  of  the  semicircle  of  Arabs,  in  the  front  of  which 
stood  the  white  man  with  the  grey  beard.  As  I 
advanced  slowly  towards  him  I  noticed  he  was  pale, 
looked  wearied,  had  a  grey  beard,  wore  a  bluish  cap 
with  a  faded  gold  band  round  it,  had  on  a  red-sleeved 
waistcoat,  and  a  pair  of  grey  tweed  trousers.  I  would 
have  run  to  him,  only  I  was  a  coward  in  the  presence 
of  such  a  mob — would  have  embraced  him,  only,  he 
being  an  Englishman,  I  did  not  know  how  he  would 
receive  me  ;*  so  I  did  what  cowardice  and  false  pride 

*  "  This  Englishman,  as  I  afterwards  found,  was  a  military  man 
returning  to  his  country  from  India,  and  crossing  the  Desert  at  this 
part  in  order  to  go  through  Palestine.  As  for  me,  I  had  come  pretty 
straight  from  England,  and  so  here  we  met  in  the  wilderness  at  about 
half-way  from  our  respective  starting-points.  As  we  approached 
each  other,  it  became  with  me  a  question  whether  we  should  speak ;  I 
thought  it  likely  that  the  stranger  would  accost  me,  and  in  the  event 
of  his  doing  so,  I  was  quite  ready  to  be  as  sociable  and  chatty  as  I 
could  be,  according  to  my  nature  ;  but  still  I  could  not  think  of 
anything  particular  that  I  bad  to  say  to  him ;  of  course  among 
civilized  people,  the  not  having  anything  to  say  is  no  excuse  at  all 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


suggested  was  the  best  thing — walked  delibeiately  to 
him,  took  off  my  hat,  and  said  : 
"  Dr.  Livingstone,  I  presume  ?" 

44  Yes,"  said  he,  with  a  kind  smile,  lifting  his  cap 
slightly. 

I  replace  my  hat  on  my  head,  and  he  puts  on  his 
cap,  and  we  both  grasp  hands,  and  I  then  say  aloud  : 
"  I  thank  God,  Doctor,  I  have  been  permitted  to  see 

you." 

He  answered,  "  I  feel  thankful  that  I  am  here  to 
welcome  you." 

I  turn  to  the  Arabs,  take  off  my  hat  to  them  in 
response  to  the  saluting  chorus  of  "  Yambos  "  I  receive, 
and  the  Doctor  introduces  them  to  me  by  name.  Then, 
oblivious  of  the  crowds,  oblivious  of  the  men  who  shared 
with  me  my  dangers,  we — Livingstone  and  I — turn 
our  faces  towards  his  tembe.  He  points  to  the  veranda, 
or,  rather,  mud  platform,  under  the  broad  overhanging 
eaves ;  he  points  to  his  own  particular  seat,  which  I  see 
his  age  and  experience  in  Africa  has  suggested,  namely, 
a  straw  mat,  with  a  goatskin  over  it,  and  another  skin 
nailed  against  the  wall  to  protect  his  back  from  contact 
with  the  cold  mud.  I  protest  against  taking  this  seat, 
which  so  much  more  befits  him  than  me,  but  the  Doctor 
will  not  yield  :  I  must  take  it. 

We  are  seated — the  Doctor  and  I — with  our  backs  to 
the  wall.  The  Arabs  take  seats  on  our  left.  More  than 
a  thousand  natives  are  in  our  front,  filling  the  whole 
square  densely,  indulging  their  curiosity,  and  discussing 

for  not  speaking,  but  I  was  shy,  and  indolent,  and  I  felt  no  great  wish 
to  stop,  and  talk  like  a  morning  visitor,  in  the  midst  of  those  broad 
solitudes.  The  traveller  perhaps  felt  as  I  did,  for  except  that  we 
lifted  our  hands  to  our  caps,  and  waved  our  arms  in  courtesy,  we  passed 
each  other  as  if  we  had  passed  in  Bond  Street." — Kinglake's  Edthen. 


Nov.  1871.]  UK  A  WEND  I,  UVINZA,  AXD  UHI1A,  TO  UJ1JI.  413 


the  fact  of  two  white  men  meeting  at  Ujiji — one  just 
come  from  Manyuema,  in  the  west,  the  other  from 
Unyanyeinbe,  in  the  east- 
Conversation  began.  What  about?  I  declare  I 
have  forgotten.  Oh  !  we  mutually  asked  questions  of 
one  another,  such  as  : 

"  How  did  you  come  here  ?"  and  "  Where  have  you 
been  all  this  long  time  ? — the  world  has  believed  you  to 
be  dead."  Yes,  that  was  the  way  it  began ;  but  what- 
ever the  Doctor  informed  me,  and  that  which  I  commu- 
nicated to  him,  I  cannot  correctly  report,  for  I  found 
myself  gazing  at  him,  conning  the  wonderful  man  at 
whose  side  I  now  sat  in  Central  Africa.  Every  hair  of  his 
head  and  beard,  every  wrinkle  of  his  face,  the  wanness 
of  his  features,  and  the  slightly  wearied  look  he  wore, 
were  all  imparting  intelligence  to  me — the  knowledge  I 
craved  for  so  much  ever  since  I  heard  the  words, "  Take 
what  you  want,  but  find  Livingstone."  What  I  saw 
was  deeply  interesting  intelligence  to  me,  and  un- 
varnished truth.  I  was  listening  and  reading  at  the 
same  time.  What  did  these  dumb  witnesses  relate  to 
me  ? 

Oh,  reader,  had  you  been  at  my  side  on  this  day  in 
Ujiji,  how  eloquently  could  be  told  the  nature  of  this 
man's  work  !  Had  you  been  there  but  to  see  and  hear  ! 
His  lips  gave  me  the  details ;  lips  that  never  lie.  I 
cannot  repeat  what  he  said ;  I  was  too  much  engrossed 
to  take  my  note-book  out,  and  begin  to  stenograph  his 
story.  He  had  so  much  to  say  that  he  began  at  the 
end,  seemingly  oblivious  of  the  fact  that  five  or  six 
years  had  to  be  accounted  for.  But  his  account  was 
oozing  out ;  it  was  growing  fast  into  grand  proportions 
— into  a  most  marvellous  history  of  deeds. 

The  Arabs  rose  up,  with  a  delicacy  I  approved,  as  if 


414 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


they  intuitively  knew  that  we  ought  to  be  left  to  our- 
selves. I  sent  Bombay  with  them,  to  give  them  the 
news  they  also  wanted  so  much  to  know  about  the 
affairs  at  Unyanyembe.  Sayd  bin  Majid  was  the  father 
of  the  gallant  young  man  whom  I  saw  at  Masange,  and 
who  fought  with  me  at  Zimbizo,  and  who  soon  after- 
wards was  killed  by  Mirambo's  Ruga-Ruga  in  the  forest 
of  Wilyankuru;  and,  knowing  that  I  had  been  there, 
he  earnestly  desired  to  hear  the  tale  of  the  fight ;  but 
they  had  all  friends  at  Unyanyembe,  and  it  was  but 
natural  that  they  should  be  anxious  to  hear  of  what 
concerned  them. 

After  giving  orders  to  Bombay  and  Asmani  for  the 
provisioning  of  the  men  of  the  Expedition,  I  called 
"  Kaif-Halek,"  or  "  How-do-ye-do,"  and  introduced 
him  to  Dr.  Livingstone  as  one  of  the  soldiers  in 
charge  of  certain  goods  left  at  Unyanyembe,  whom  I 
had  compelled  to  accompany  me  to  Ujiji,  that  he  might 
deliver  in  person  to  his  master  the  letter-bag  he  had 
been  entrusted  with  by  Dr.  Kirk.  This  was  that 
famous  letter-bag  marked  "Nov.  1st,  1870,"  which  was 
now  delivered  into  the  Doctor's  hands  365  days  after  it 
left  Zanzibar  !  How  long,  I  wonder,  had  it  remained 
at  Unyanyembe  had  I  not  been  despatched  into  Central 
Africa  in  search  of  the  great  traveller  ? 

The  Doctor  kept  the  letter- bag  on  his  knee,  then, 
presently,  opened  it,  looked  at  the  letters  contained 
there,  and  read  one  or  two  of  his  children's  letters,  his 
face  in  the  meanwhile  lighting  up. 

He  asked  me  to  tell  him  the  news.  "No,  Doctor," 
said  I,  "  read  your  letters  first,  which  I  am  sure  you 
must  be  impatient  to  read." 

"  Ah/'  said  he,  "I  have  waited  years  for  letters,  and 
I  have  been  taught  patience.    I  can  surely  afford  to 


Nov.  1871.]  UKAWENDI,  UVTNZA,  AND  UHEA,  TO  UJIJI.  415 

wait  a  few  hours  longer.  No,  tell  me  the  general 
news  :  how  is  the  world  getting  along  ?" 

"  You  probably  know  much  already.  Do  you  know 
that  the  Suez  Canal  is  a  fact — is  opened,  and  a  regular 
trade  carried  on  between  Europe  and  India  through  it  ?" 

"  I  did  not  hear  about  the  opening  of  it.  Well,  that 
is  grand  news  !    What  else  ?" 

Shortly  I  found  myself  enacting  the  part  of  an 
annual  periodical  to  him.  There  was  no  need  of  exag- 
geration— of  any  penny-a-line  news,  or  of  any  sensa- 
tionalism. The  world  had  witnessed  and  experienced 
much  the  last  few  years.  The  Pacific  Railroad  had 
been  completed  ;  Grant  had  been  elected  President 
of  the  United  States  ;  Egypt  had  been  flooded  with 
savans  ;  the  Cretan  rebellion  had  terminated ;  a 
Spanish  revolution  had  driven  Isabella  from  the  throne 
of  Spain,  and  a  Regent  had  been  appointed  ;  General 
Prim  was  assassinated  ;  a  Castelar  had  electrified  Europe 
with  his  advanced  ideas  upon  the  liberty  of  worship  ; 
Prussia  had  humbled  Denmark,  and  annexed  Schleswig- 
Holstein,  and  her  armies  were  now  around  Paris  ;  the 
"Man  of  Destiny  79  was  a  prisoner  at  Wilhelmshohe  ; 
the  Queen  of  Fashion  and  the  Empress  of  the  French 
was  a  fugitive  ;  and  the  child  born  in  the  purple  had 
lost  for  ever  the  Imperial  crown  intended  for  his  head  ; 
the  Napoleon  dynasty  was  extinguished  by  the  Prus- 
sians, Bismarck  and  Yon  Moltke  ;  and  France,  the 
proud  empire,  was  humbled  to  the  dust. 

What  could  a  man  have  exaggerated  of  these  facts  ? 
What  a  budget  of  news  it  was  to  one  who  had  emerged 
from  the  depths  of  the  primeval  forests  of  Manyuema  ! 
The  reflection  of  the  dazzling  light  of  civilization  was 
cast  on  him  while  Livingstone  was  thus  listening  in 
wonder  to  one  of  the  most  exciting  pages  of  history  ever 


416 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


repeated.  How  the  puny  deeds  of  barbarism  paled 
before  these !  Who  could  tell  under  what  new  phases 
of  uneasy  life  Europe  was  laboring  even  then,  while 
we,  two  of  her  lonely  children,  rehearsed  the  tale  of 
her  late  woes  and  glories  ?  More  worthily,  perhaps, 
had  the  tongue  of  a  lyric  Demodocus  recounted  them  ; 
but,  in  the  absence  of  the  poet,  the  newspaper  corre- 
spondent performed  his  part  as  well  and  truthfully 
as  he  could. 

Not  long  after  the  Arabs  had  departed,  a  dishful  of 
hot  hashed-meat  cakes  was  sent  to  us  by  Sayd  bin 
Majid,  and  a  curried  chicken  was  received  from  Mo- 
hammed bin  Sali,  and  Moeni  Kheri  sent  a  dishful  of 
stewed  goat-meat  and  rice  ;  and  thus  presents  of  food 
came  in  succession,  and  as  fast  as  they  were  brought  we 
set  to.  I  had  a  healthy,  stubborn  digestion — the  exer- 
cise I  had  taken  had  put  it  in  prime  order  ;  but  Living- 
stone— he  had  been  complaining  that  he  had  no  appetite, 
that  his  stomach  refused  everything  but  a  cup  of  tea 
now  and  then — he  ate  also — ate  like  a  vigorous,  hungry 
man ;  and,  as  he  vied  with  me  in  demolishing  the  pan- 
cakes, he  kept  repeating,  "  You  have  brought  me  new 
life.    You  have  brought  me  new  life." 

"  Oh,  by  George !  "  I  said,  "  I  have  forgotten  some- 
thing. Hasten,  Selim,  and  bring  that  bottle  ;  you 
know  which ;  and  bring  me  the  silver  goblets.  I 
brought  this  bottle  on  purpose  for  this  event,  which 
I  hoped  would  come  to  pass,  though  often  it  seemed 
useless  to  expect  it." 

Selim  knew  where  the  bottle  was,  and  he  soon 
returned  with  it  —  a  bottle  of  Sillery  champagne; 
and,  handing  the  Doctor  a  silver  goblet  brimful  of 
the  exhilarating  wine,  and  pouring  a  small  quantity 
into  my  own,  I  said, 


Nov  1871.]    UKAWEXDI,  UVINZA,  AND  UHHA,  TO  UJIJL  417 


"  Dr.  Livingstone,  to  your  very  good  health,  sir." 
t4  And  to  yours,"  he  responded. 

And  the  champagne  I  had  treasured  for  this  happy 
meeting  was  drunk  with  hearty  good  wishes  to  each 
other. 

But  we  kept  on  talking  and  talking,  and  prepared 
food  was  being  brought  to  us  all  that  afternoon ;  and 
we  kept  on  eating  every  time  it  was  brought,  until 
I  had  eaten  even  to  repletion,  and  the  Doctor  was 
obliged  to  confess  that  he  had  eaten  enough.  Still, 
Halimah,  the  female  cook  of  the  Doctor's  establishment, 
was  in  a  state  of  the  greatest  excitement.  She  had 
been  protruding  her  head  out  of  the  cookhouse  to  make 
sure  that  there  were  really  two  white  men  sitting  down 
in  the  veranda,  when  there  used  to  be  only  one,  who 
would  not,  because  he  could  not,  eat  anything  ;  and  she 
had  been  considerably  exercised  in  her  mind  about  this 
fact.  She  was  afraid  the  Doctor  did  not  properly 
appreciate  her  culinary  abilities  ;  but  now  she  was 
amazed  at  the  extraordinary  quantity  of  food  eaten, 
and  she  was  in  a  state  of  delightful  excitement.  We 
could  hear  her  tongue  rolling  off  a  tremendous  volume 
of  clatter  to  the  wondering  crowds  who  halted  before 
the  kitchen  to  hear  the  current  of  news  with  which 
she  edified  them.  Poor,  faithful  soul !  While  we 
listened  to  the  noise  of  her  furious  gossip,  the  Doctor 
related  her  faithful  services,  and  the  terrible  anxiety 
she  evinced  when  the  guns  first  announced  the  arrival 
of  another  white  man  in  Ujiji ;  how  she  had  been 
flying  about  in  a  state  of  the  utmost  excitement,  from 
the  kitchen  into  his  presence,  and  out  again  into  the 
square,  asking  all  sorts  of  questions ;  how  she  was 
in  despair  at  the  scantiness  of  the  general  larder  and 
treasury  of  the  strange  household  ;  how  she  was  anxious 

2  E 


418 


nOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  make  up  for  their  poverty  by  a  grand  appearance — 
to  make  up  a  sort  of  Barmecide  feast  to  welcome 
the  white  man.  "  Why,"  said  she,  "  is  he  not  one 
of  us  ?  Does  he  not  bring  plenty  of  cloth  and  beads  ? 
Talk  about  the  Arabs  !  Who  are  they  that  they  should 
be  compared  to  white  men  ?    Arabs,  indeed !" 

The  Doctor  and  I  conversed  upon  many  things, 
especially  upon  his  own  immediate  troubles,  and  his 
disappointment,  upon  his  arrival  in  Ujiji,  when  told 
that  all  his  goods  had  been  sold,  and  he  was 
reduced  to  poverty.  He  had  but  twenty  cloths  or 
so  left  of  the  stock  he  had  deposited  with  the  man 
called  Sherif,  the  half-caste  drunken  tailor,  who  was 
sent  by  the  British  Consul  in  charge  of  the  goods. 
Besides  which  he  had  been  suffering  from  an  attack  of 
dysentery,  and  his  condition  was  most  deplorable. 
He  wa»  but  little  improved  on  this  day,  though  he 
had  eaten  well,  and  already  began  to  feel  stronger  and 
better. 

This  day,  like  all  others,  though  big  with  happiness 
to  me,  at  last  was  fading  away.  We,  sitting  with  our 
faces  looking  to  the  east,  as  Livingstone  had  been 
sitting  for  days  preceding  my  arrival,  noted  the  dark 
shadows  which  crept  up  above  the  grove  of  palms 
beyond  the  village,  and  above  the  rampart  of  moun- 
tains which  we  had  crossed  that  day,  now  looming 
through  the  fast  approaching  darkness  ;  and  we  listened, 
with  our  hearts  full  of  gratitude  to  the  great  Giver 
of  Good  and  Dispenser  of  all  Happiness,  to  the  sonorous 
thunder  of  the  surf  of  the  Tanganika,  and  to  the 
chorus  which  the  night  insects  sang.  Hours  passed, 
and  we  were  still  sitting  there  with  our  minds  busy 
upon  the  day's  remarkable  events,  when  I  remembered 
that  the  traveller  had  not  yet  read  his  letters. 


Nov.  1871.]    UKAWENM,  UVINZA,  AND  UI1HA,  TO  UJIJI.  419 


"  Doctor,"  I  said,  "  you  had  better  read  your  letters. 
I  will  not  keep  you  up  any  longer." 

"  Yes,"  he  answered,  "  it  is  getting  late ;  and  I  will 
go  and  read  my  friends'  letters.  Good-night,  and  God 
bless  you," 

"  Good-night,  my  dear  Doctor  ;  and  let  me  hope  that 
your  news  will  be  such  as  you  desire." 

And  now,  dear  reader,  having  related  succinctly 
'  How  I  found  Livingstone,"  I  bid  you  also  4  '  Good- 
night." 


OUR  HOUSE  IX  UJIJI. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

INTERCOURSE   WITH  LIVINGSTONE  AT  UJIJI. 

"  If  there  is  love  between  us,  inconceivably  delicious,  and  profit- 
able will  our  intercourse  be ;  if  not,  your  time  is  lost,  and  you  will 
only  annoy  me.  I  shall  seem  to  you  stupid,  and  the  reputation  I 
have  false.  All  my  good  is  magnetic,  and  I  educate  not  by  lessons, 
but  by  going  about  my  business." — Emerson's  Bepresentatke  Men. 

I  woke  up  early  next  morning  with  a  sudden  start. 
The  room  was  strange  !  It  was  a  house,  and  not  my 
tent !  Ah,  yes  !  I  recollected  I  had  discovered  Living- 
stone, and  I  was  in  his  house.  I  listened,  that  the 
knowledge  dawning  on  me  might  be  confirmed  by  the 
sound  of  his  voice.  I  heard  nothing  but  the  sullen 
roar  of  the  surf. 

I  lay  quietly  in  bed.  Bed  !  Yes,  it  was  a  primitive 
four-poster,  with  the  leaves  of  the  palm-tree  spread  upon 
it  instead  of  down,  and  horsehair  and  my  bearskin 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


421 


spread  over  this  serving  me  in  place  of  linen.  I  began 
to  put  myself  under  a  rigid  mental  cross-examination, 
and  to  an  analysation  of  my  position. 

"  What  was  I  sent  for  ?" 

"  To  find  Livingstone." 

"  Have  you  found  him  ?" 

"  Yes,  of  course ;  am  I  not  in  his  house  ?  Whose 
compass  is  that  hanging  on  a  peg  there  ?  Whose 
clothes,  whose  boots,  are  those?  Who  reads  those 
newspapers,  those  4  Saturday  Reviews '  and  numbers  of 
4  Punch  '  lying  on  the  floor  ?" 

"  Well,  what  are  you  going  to  do  now  ?" 

"  I  shall  tell  him  this  morning  who  sent  me,  and 
what  brought  me  here.  I  will  then  ask  him  to  write  a 
letter  to  Mr.  Bennett,  and  to  give  what  news  he  can 
spare.  I  did  not  come  here  to  rob  him  of  his  news. 
Sufficient  for  me  is  it  that  I  have  found  him.  It  is  a 
complete  success  so  far.  But  it  will  be  a  greater  one  if 
he  gives  me  letters  for  Mr.  Bennett,  and  an  acknowledg- 
ment that  he  has  seen  me." 

"  Do  you  think  he  will  do  so  ?" 
Why  not  ?    I  have  come  here  to  do  him  a  service. 
He  has  no  goods.    I  have.    He  has  no  men  with  him. 
I  have.    If  I  do  a  friendly  part  by  him,  will  he  not  do 
a  friendly  part  by  me  ?    What  says  the  poet  ? — 

'  Nor  hope  to  find 
A  friend,  but  who  has  found  a  friend  in  thee. 
All  like  the  purchase  ;  few  the  price  will  pay : 
And  this  makes  friends  such  wonders  here  below.' 

I  have  paid  the  purchase,  by  coming  so  far  to  do  him  a 
service.  But  I  think,  from  what  I  have  seen  of  him  last 
night,  that  he  is  not  such  a  niggard  and  misanthrope  as 
I  was  told  he  was  by  a  man  who  said  he  knew  him.  He 


422 


IJOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


exhibited  considerable  emotion,  despite  the  monosyllabic 
greeting,  when  he  shook  my  hand.  Neither  did  he  run 
away,  as  I  was  told  he  would  ;  though  jDerhaps  that 
was  because  he  had  no  time.  Still,  if  he  was  a  man 
to  feel  annoyance  at  any  person  coming  after  him,  he 
would  not  have  received  me  as  he  did,  nor  would  he 
ask  me  to  live  with  him,  but  he  would  have  surlily 
refused  to  see  me,  and  told  me  to  mind  my  own  business, 
and  he  would  mind  his.  Neither  does  he  mind  my 
nationality  ;  for  6  here,'  said  he,  '  Americans  and  Eng- 
lishmen are  the  same  people.  We  speak  the  same 
language  and  have  the  same  ideas.'  Just  so,  Doctor; 
I  agree  with  you.  Here,  at  least,  Americans  and  Eng- 
lishmen shall  be  brothers,  and  whatever  I  can  do  for 
you,  you  may  command  me  as  freely  as  if  I  were  flesh 
of  your  flesh,  bone  of  your  bone." 

I  dressed  myself  quietly,  intending  to  take  a  stroll 
along  the  Tanganika  before  the  Doctor  should  rise  ; 
opened  the  door,  which  creaked  horribly  on  its  hinges, 
and  walked  out  to  the  veranda. 

"Halloa,  Doctor! — you  up  already?  I  hope  you 
have  slept  well  ?*' 

"  Good-morning,  Mr.  Stanley !  I  am  glad  to  see 
you.  Hope  you  rested  well.  I  sat  up  late  reading  my 
letters.  You  have  brought  me  good  and  bad  news. 
But  sit  down."  He  made  a  place  for  me  by  his  side. 
"  Yes,  many  of  my  friends  are  dead.  My  eldest  son 
has  met  with  a  sad  accident — that  is,  my  boy  Tom  ;  my 
second  son,  Oswald,  is  at  college  studying  medicine, 
and  is  doing  well,  I  am  told.  Agnes,  my  eldest  daughter, 
has  been  enjoying  herself  in  a  yacht,  with  4  Sir  Paraffine 
Young  and  his  family.  Sir  Eoderick,  also,  is  well,  and 
expresses  a  hope  that  he  will  soon  see  me.  You  have 
brought  me  quite  a  budget." 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


423 


The  man  was  not  an  apparition,  then,  and  yesterday's 
scenes  were  not  the  result  of  a  dream  !  and  I  gazed  on 
him  intently,  for  thus  I  was  assured  lie  had  not  run 
away,  which  was  the  great  fear  that  constantly  haunted 
me  as  I  was  journeying  to  Ujiji. 

"  Now,  Doctor,"  said  I,  "  you  are,  probably,  won- 
dering why  I  came  here  ?" 

"  It  is  true,"  said  he  ;  "  I  have  been  wondering.  I 
thought  you,  at  first,  an  emissary  of  the  French 
Government,  in  the  place  of  Lieutenant  Le  Saint,  who 
died  a  few  miles  above  Grondokoro.  I  heard  you  had 
boats,  plenty  of  men,  and  stores,  and  I  really  believed 
vou  were  some  French  officer,  until  I  saw  the  American 
flag ;  and,  to  tell  you  the  truth,  I  was  rather  glad  it 
was  so,  because  I  could  not  have  talked  to  him  in 
French  ;  and  if  he  did  not  know  English,  we  had  been 
a  pretty  pair  of  white  men  in  Ujiji  !  I  did  not  like  to 
ask  you  yesterday,  because  it  was  none  of  my  business." 

"  Well,"  said  I,  laughing,  "  for  your  sake  I  am  glad 
that  I  am  an  American,  and  not  a  Frenchman,  and  that 
we  can  understand  each  other  perfectly  without  an 
interpreter.  I  see  that  the  Arabs  are  wondering  that 
you,  an  Englishman,  and  I,  an  American,  understand 
each  other.  We  must  take  care  not  to  tell  them  that 
the  English  and  Americans  have  fought,  and  that  there 
are  1  Alabama '  claims  left  unsettled,  and  that  we  have 
such  people  as  Fenians  in  America,  who  hate  you. 
But,  seriously,  Doctor — now  don't  be  frightened  when  I 
tell  you  that  I  have  come  after — you  !" 

"  After  me  ?" 

"  Yes." 

"  How  ?" 

"  Well.  You  have  heard  of  the  4  New  York 
Herald?'  99 


424 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


"  Oh — who  has  not  heard  of  that  newspaper  ?" 

"  Sh-sh  !  Without  his  father's  knowledge  or  consent, 
Mr.  James  Gordon  Bennett,  son  of  Mr.  James  Gordon 
Bennett,  the  proprietor  of  the  'Herald,'  has  commis- 
sioned me  to  find  you — to  get  whatever  news  of  your 
discoveries  you  like  to  give — and  to  assist  you,  if  I  can, 
with  means." 

"  Young  Mr.  Bennett  told  you  to  come  after  me,  to 
find  me  out,  and  help  me !  It  is  no  wonder,  then,  you 
praised  Mr.  Bennett  so  much  last  night." 

"  I  know  him — I  am  proud  to  say — to  be  just  what  I 
say  he  is.    He  is  an  ardent,  generous,  and  true  man." 

"  Well,  indeed  !  I  am  very  much  obliged  to  him ; 
and  it  makes  me  feel  proud  to  think  that  you  Americans 
think  so  much  of  me.  You  have  just  come  in  the 
proper  time ;  for  I  was  beginning  to  think  that  I  should 
have  to  beg  from  the  Arabs.  Even  they  are  in  want 
of  cloth,  and  there  are  but  few  beads  in  Ujiji.  That 
fellow  Sherif  has  robbed  me  of  all.  I  wish  I  could 
embody  my  thanks  to  Mr.  Bennett  in  suitable  words  ; 
but  if  I  fail  to  do  so,  do  not,  I  beg  of  you,  believe  me 
the  less  grateful." 

44  And  now,  Doctor,  having  disposed  of  this  little 
affair,  Ferajji  shall  bring  breakfast ;  if  you  have  no 
objection." 

"  You  have  given  me  an  appetite,"  he  said.  "  Halimah 
is  my  cook,  but  she  never  can  tell  the  difference  between 
tea  and  coffee." 

Ferajji,  the  cook,  was  ready  as  usual  with  excellent 
tea,  and  a  dish  of  smoking  cakes  ;  "  dampers,"  as  the 
Doctor  called  them.  I  never  did  care  much  for  this 
kind  of  a  cake  fried  in  a  pan,  but  they  were  necessary 
to  the  Doctor,  who  had  nearly  lost  all  his  teeth  from  the 
hard  fare  of  Lunda.    He  had  been  compelled  to  subsist 


Nov.  1871.1     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


425 


on  green  ears  of  Indian  corn ;  there  was  no  meat  in 
that  district ;  and  the  effort  to  gnaw  at  the  corn  ears 
had  loosened  all  his  teeth.  I  preferred  the  corn  scones 
of  Virginia,  which,  to  my  mind,  were  the  nearest 
approach  to  palatable  bread  obtainable  in  Central 
Africa. 

The  Doctor  said  he  had  thought  me  a  most  luxurious 
and  rich  man,  when  he  saw  my  great  bath-tub  carried 
on  the  shoulders  of  one  of  my  men  ;  but  he  thought  me 
still  more  luxurious  this  morning,  when  my  knives  and 
forks,  and  plates,  and  cups,  saucers,  silver  spoons,  and 
silver  tea-pot  were  brought  forth  shining  and  bright, 
spread  on  a  rich  Persian  carpet,  and  observed  that  I 
was  well  attended  to  by  my  yellow  and  ebon  Mercuries. 

This  was  the  beginning  of  our  life  at  Ujiji.  I  knew 
him  not  as  a  friend  before  my  arrival.  He  was  only 
an  object  to  me — a  great  item  for  a  daily  newspaper,  as 
much  as  other  subjects  in  which  the  voracious  news- 
loving  public  delight  in.  I  had  gone  over  battlefields, 
witnessed  revolutions,  civil  wars,  rebellions,  emeutes 
and  massacres ;  stood  close  to  the  condemned  murderer 
to  record  his  last  struggles  and  last  sighs ;  but  never 
had  I  been  called  to  record  anything  that  moved  me  so 
much  as  this  man's  woes  and  sufferings,  his  privations 
and  disappointments,  which  now  were  poured  into  my 
ear.  Verily  did  I  begin  to  perceive  that  "the  Gods 
above  do  with  just  eyes  survey  the  affairs  of  men."  I 
began  to  recognize  the  hand  of  an  overruling  and 
kindly  Providence. 

These  are  facts  worthy  for  reflection.  I  was  com- 
missioned for  the  duty  of  discovering  Livingstone 
sometime  in  October,  1869.  Mr.  Bennett  was  ready 
with  the  money,  and  I  was  ready  for  the  journey.  But, 
observe,  reader,  that  I  did  not  proceed  directly  upoi> 


420 


IIOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  search  mission.  I  had  many  tasks  to  fulfil  before 
|  roceeding  with  it,  and  many  thousand  miles  to  travel 
over.  Supposing  that  I  had  gone  direct  to  Zanzibar 
from  Paris,  seven  or  eight  months  afterwards,  perhaps, 
I  should  have  found  myself  at  Ujiji,  but  Livingstone 
would  not  have  been  found  there  then  ;  he  was  on  the 
Lualaba ;  and  I  should  have  had  to  follow  him  on 
his  devious  tracks  through  the  primeval  forests  of 
Manyuema,  and  up  along  the  crooked  course  of  the 
Lualaba  for  hundreds  of  miles.  The  time  taken  bv  me 
in  travelling  up  the  Nile,  back  to  Jerusalem,  then  to  Con- 
stantinople, Southern  Russia,  the  Caucasus,  and  Persia, 
was  employed  by  Livingstone  in  fruitful  discoveries 
west  of  the  Tanganika.  Again,  consider  that  I  arrived 
at  Unyanyembe  in  the  latter  part  of  June,  and  that 
owing  to  a  war  I  was  delayed  three  months  at  Unyan- 
yembe, leading  a  fretful,  peevish  and  impatient  life.  But 
while  I  was  thus  fretting  myself,  and  being  delayed  by 
a  series  of  accidents,  Livingstone  was  being  forced  back 
to  Ujiji  in  the  same  month.  It  took  him  from  June  to 
October  to  march  to  Ujiji.  Now,  in  September,  I 
broke  loose  from  the  thraldom  which  accident  had 
imposed  on  me,  and  hurried  southward  to  Ukonongo, 
then  westward  to  Kawendi,  then  northward  to  Uvinza, 
then  westward  to  Ujiji,  only  about  three  weeks  after 
the  Doctor's  arrival,  to  find  him  resting  under  the 
veranda  of  his  house  with  his  face  turned  eastward,  the 
direction  from  which  I  was  coming.  Had  I  gone  direct 
from  Paris  on  the  search  I  might  have  lost  him ;  had  I 
been  enabled  to  have  gone  direct  to  Ujiji  from  Unyan- 
yembe I  might  have  lost  him. 

The  days  came  and  vent  peacefully  and  happily, 
under  the  palms  of  Ujiji.  My  companion  was  im- 
proving in  health  and  spirits.    Life  had  been  brought 


Xov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


427 


back  to  him ;  his  fading  vitality  was  restored,  his 
enthusiasm  for  his  work  was  growing  up  again  into  a 
height  that  was  compelling  him  to  desire  to  be  up  and 
doing.  But  what  could  he  do,  with  five  men  and 
fifteen  or  twenty  cloths  ? 

"  Have  you  seen  the  northern  head  of  the  Tanganika, 
Doctor  ?"  I  asked  one  day. 

*'  No ;  I  did  try  to  go  there,  but  the  Wajiji  were 
doing  their  best  to  fleece  me,  as  they  did  both  Burton 
and  Speke,  and  I  had  not  a  great  deal  of  cloth.  If  I 
had  gone  to  the  head  of  the  Tanganika,  I  could  not 
have  gone  to  Manyuema.  The  central  line  of  drainage 
was  the  most  important,  and  that  is  the  Lualaba. 
Before  this  line  the  question  whether  there  is  a 
connection  between  the  Tanganika  and  the  Albert 
X'Yanza  sinks  into  insignificance.  The  great  line  ot 
drainage  is  the  river  flowing  from  latitude  11°  south, 
which  I  followed  for  over  seven  degrees  northward.  The 
Chambezi,  the  name  given  to  its  most  southern  ex- 
tremity, drains  a  large  tract  of  country  south  of  the 
southernmost  source  of  the  Tanganika  ;  it  must,  there- 
fore, he  the  most  important.  I  have  not  the  least 
doubt,  myself,  but  that  this  lake  is  the  Upper  Tanga- 
nika, and  the  Albert  N'Yanza  of  Baker  is  the  Lower 
Tanganika,  which  are  connected  by  a  river  flowing 
from  the  upper  to  the  lower.  This  is  my  belief,  based 
upon  reports  of  the  Arabs,  and  a  test  I  made  of  the 
flow  with  water-plants.  But  I  really  never  gave  it 
much  thought." 

"  "Well,  if  I  were  you,  Doctor,  before  leaving  Ujiji,  I 
should  explore  it,  and  resolve  the  doubts  upon  the 
subject ;  lest,  after  you  leave  here,  you  should  not  return 
by  this  way.  The  Royal  Geographical  Society  attach 
much  importance  to  this   supposed  connection,  and 


428 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


declare  you  are  the  only  man  who  can  settle  it.  If  I 
can  be  of  any  service  to  you,  you  may  command  me. 
Though  I  did  not  come  to  Africa  as  an  explorer,  I  have 
a  good  deal  of  curiosity  upon  the  subject,  and  should  be 
willing  to  accompany  you.  I  have  with  me  about 
twenty  men  who  understand  rowing  ;  we  have  plenty 
of  guns,  cloth,  and  beads ;  and  if  we  can  get  a  canoe 
from  the  Arabs  we  can  manage  the  thing  easily." 

"  Oh,  we  can  get  a  canoe  from  Sayd  bin  Majid.  This 
man  has  been  very  kind  to  me,  and  if  ever  there  was 
an  Arab  gentleman,  he  is  one." 

"  Then  it  is  settled,  is  it,  that  we  go  ?" 

"  I  am  ready,  whenever  you  are." 

"  I  am  at  your  command.  Don't  you  hear  my 
men  call  you  the  '  Great  Master,'  and  me  the  '  Little 
Master  ?'  It  would  never  do  for  the  *  Little  Master '  to 
command." 

By  this  time  Livingstone  was  becoming  known  to 
me.  I  defy  any  one  to  be  in  his  society  long  without 
thoroughly  fathoming  him,  for  in  him  there  is  no 
guile,  and  what  is  apparent  on  the  surface  is  the  thing 
that  is  in  him.  I  hope  that  in  my  summary  of  his 
character,  and  of  his  discoveries,  I  offend  no  one. 
I  simply  write  down  my  own  opinion  of  the  man  as  I 
have  seen  him,  not  as  he  represents  himself ;  as  I  know 
him  to  be,  not  as  I  have  heard  of  him.  I  lived  with 
him  from  the  10th  November,  1871,  to  the  14th  March, 
1872  ;  witnessed  his  conduct  in  the  camp,  and  on  the 
march,  and  my  feelings  for  him  are  those  of  unqualified 
admiration.  The  camp  is  the  best  place  to  discover  a 
man's  weaknesses,  where,  if  he  is  flighty  or  wrong- 
headed,  he  is  sure  to  develop  his  hobbies  and  weak 
side.  I  think  it  possible,  however,  that  Livingstone, 
with  an  unsuitable  companion,  might  feel  annoyance. 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


429 


I  know  I  should  do  so  very  readily,  if  a  man's  character 
was  of  that  oblique  nature  that  it  was  an  impossibility 
to  travel  in  his  company.  I  have  seen  men,  in  whose 
company  I  felt  nothing  but  a  thraldom,  which  it  was 
a  duty  to  my  own  self-respect  to  cast  off  as  soon  as 
possible  ;  a  feeling  of  utter  incompatibility,  with  whose 
nature  mine  could  never  assimilate.  But  Livingstone's 
was  a  character  that  I  venerated,  that  called  forth  all 
my  enthusiasm,  that  evoked  nothing  but  sincerest 
admiration. 

Dr.  Livingstone  is  about  sixty  years  old,  though  after 
he  was  restored  to  health  he  appeared  more  like  a 
man  who  had  not  passed  his  fiftieth  year.  His  hair 
has  a  brownish  color  yet,  but  is  here  and  there 
streaked  with  grey  lines  over  the  temples  ;  his  beard 
and  moustaches  are  very  grey.  His  eyes,  which 
are  hazel,  are  remarkably  bright ;  he  has  a  sight  keen 
as  a  hawk's.  His  teeth  alone  indicate  the  weakness 
of  age ;  the  hard  fare  of  Lunda  has  made  havoc  in 
their  lines.  His  form,  which  soon  assumed  a  stoutish 
appearance,  is  a  little  over  the  ordinary  height,  with 
the  slightest  possible  bow  in  the  shoulders.  When 
walking  he  has  a  firm  but  heavy  tread,  like  that  of  an 
overworked  or  fatigued  man.  He  is  accustomed  to 
wear  a  naval  cap  with  a  semicircular  peak,  by  which 
he  has  been  identified  throughout  Africa.  His  dress, 
when  first  I  saw  him,  exhibited  traces  of  patching  and 
repairing,  but  was  scrupulously  clean. 

I  was  led  to  believe  that  Livingstone  possessed  a 
splenetic,  misanthropic  temper  ;  some  have  said  that  he 
is  garrulous,  that  he  is  demented ;  that  he  has  utterly 
changed  from  the  David  Livingstone  whom  people  knew 
as  the  reverend  missionary ;  that  he  takes  no  notes  or 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


observations  but  such  as  those  which  no  other  person 
could  *  read  but  himself;  and  it  was  reported,  before  I 
proceeded  to  Central  Africa,  that  he  was  married  to  an 
African  princess. 

I  respectfully  beg  to  differ  with  all  and  each  of  the 
above  statements.  I  grant  he  is  not  an  angel,  but 
he  approaches  to  that  being  as  near  as  the  nature  of 
a  living  man  will  allow.  I  never  saw  any  spleen 
or  misanthropy  in  him  :  as  for  being  garrulous,  Dr. 
Livingstone  is  quite  the  reverse ;  he  is  reserved,  if 
anything ;  and  to  the  man  who  says  Dr.  Livingstone 
is  changed,  all  I  can  say  is,  that  he  never  could  have 
known  him,  for  it  is  notorious  that  the  Doctor  has  a 
fund  of  quiet  humor,  which  he  exhibits  at  all  times 
whenever  he  is  among  friends.  I  must  also  beg  leave 
to  correct  the  gentleman  who  informed  me  that  Living- 
stone takes  no  notes  or  observations.  The  huge  Letts's 
Diary  which  I  carried  home  to  his  daughter  is  full  of 
notes,  and  there  are  no  less  than  a  score  of  sheets  within 
it  filled  with  observations  which  he  took  during  the 
last  trip  he  made  to  Manyuema  alone  ;  and  in  the  middle 
of  the  book  there  is  sheet  after  sheet,  column  after 
column,  carefully  written,  of  figures  alone.  A  large 
letter  which  I  received  from  him  has  been  sent  to  Sir 
Thomas  MacLear,  and  this  contains  nothing  but  obser- 
vations. During  the  four  months  I  was  with  him,  I 
noticed  him  every  evening  making  most  careful  notes  j 
and  a  large  tin  box  that  he  has  with  him  contains 
numbers  of  field  note-books,  the  contents  of  which  I 
dare  say  will  see  light  some  time.  His  maps  also 
evince  great  care  and  industry.  As  to  the  report  of 
his  African  marriage,  it  is  unnecessary  to  say  more 
than  that  it  is  untrue,  and  it  is  utterly  beneath  a 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  431 

gentleman  even  to  hint  at  such  a  thing  in  connection 
with  the  name  of  Dr.  Livingstone. 

You  may  take  any  point  in  Dr.  Livingstone's  cha- 
racter, and  analyse  it  carefully,  and  I  would  challenge 
any  man  to  find  a  fault  in  it.  He  is  sensitive,  I 
know  ;  but  so  is  any  man  of  a  high  mind  and  generous 
nature.  He  is  sensitive  on  the  point  of  being  doubted 
or  being  criticised.  But  who  are  they  who  doubt  him  ? 
Easy-chair  geographers,  of  course  ;  not  the  hard-working 
travellers  who  number  hundreds  on  the  list  of  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society.  I  have  not  found  a 
Richard  Burton  or  a  Winwood  Reade  criticising  him. 
And  to  have  one's  maps  and  observations  altered  to 
suit  the  caprices  of  irresponsible  parties  is  no  pleasant 
thing  to  a  man  wTho  has  been  so  painstaking  and 
industrious.  Livingstone  may  be  mistaken  in  his 
conclusions  on  certain  points,  but  the  geographer  who 
stays  at  home  cannot  correct  him  unless  he  has  data  to 
go  upon  received  from  parties  who  have  explored  the 
same  region.  No  Francis  Galton  or  Dr.  Beke,  with 
ever  so  many  opinions,  can  prove  the  Lake  Tanganika 
a  myth ;  four  travellers  have  seen  and  reported  upon 
it.  No  Francis  Galton  or  Dr.  Beke  can  prove  to 
Colonel  Grant  that  there  is  no  such  stream  as  the 
Victoria  Nile.  Yet  how  much  of  this  river — of  this 
stream — did  Colonel  Grant  see  ?  Not  fifty  miles.  But, 
because  he  saw  it  flow  north  and  north-westerly,  he 
believes,  sincerely  and  honestly,  that  it  is  the  same 
river  which  he  observed  flowing  past  Gondokoro. 
Livingstone  also  believes  that — after  following  the 
Chambezi,  Luapula,  and  Lualaba,  over  seven  degrees  of 
latitude,  and  seeing  it  still  flow  northward,  and  hearing 
from  natives  that  there  is  a  large  lake  north  of  where 
he  halted  in  his  grand  march  northward,  following  the 


432 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


current  of  the  mighty  Lualaba — that  this  Lualaba  is 
none  other  than  the  Nile.  Has  he  no  right,  then,  to 
feel  vexed  that  easy-chair  geographers  draw  a  great 
range  of  mountains,  extending  over  three  degrees  of 
latitude,  simply  to  demonstrate  by  that  black,  sinister- 
looking  line  "  that  he  has  been  knocking  his  head 
against  a  stone  wall  ?"  Livingstone,  with  all  his  know- 
ledge of  African  mysteries,  knows  not  yet  how  to 
manufacture  a  mountain.  He  is  too  humble-souled  to 
dare  attempt  to  transform  the  face  of  nature  after  the 
arbitrary  method  known  to  stay-at-home  geographers. * 

In  Livingstone  I  have  seen  many  amiable  traits. 
His  gentleness  never  forsakes  him ;  his  hopefulness 
never  deserts  him.  No  harassing  anxieties,  distraction 
of  mind,  long  separation  from  home  and  kindred,  can 
make  him  complain.  He  thinks  "  all  will  come  out 
right  at  last;r'  he  has  such  faith  in  the  goodness  of 
Providence.  The  sport  of  adverse  circumstances,  the 
plaything  of  the  miserable  beings  sent  to  him  from 
Zanzibar — he  has  been  baffled  and  worried,  even  almost 
to  the  grave,  yet  he  will  not  desert  the  charge  imposed 
upon  him  by  his  friend,  Sir  Eoderick  Murchison.  To 
the  stern  dictates  of  duty,  alone,  has  he  sacrificed  his 
home  and  ease,  the  pleasures,  refinements,  and  luxuries 
of  civilized  life.  His  is  the  Spartan  heroism,  the 
inflexibility  of  the  Roman,  the  enduring  resolution  of 
the  Anglo-Saxon — never  to  relinquish  his  work,  though 
his  heart  yearns  for  home ;  never  to  surrender  his 
obligations  until  he  can  write  Finis  to  his  work. 

There  is  a  good-natured  abandon  about  Livingstone 

*  All  the  criticisms  which  I  have  seen  upon  Livingstone's  dis- 
coveries are  tainted  with  too  much  of  the  odium  geographicum  to  be 
received  with  the  weight  due  to  the  cool  and  calm  declaration  of  sound 
and  logical  opinion  of  experienced  travellers  and  scientific  men. 


Nov.  1871.]      INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  *S3 

which  was  not  lost  on  me.  Whenever  he  began  to 
laugh,  there  was  a  contagion  about  it,  that  compelled 
me  to  imitate  him.  It  was  such  a  laugh  as  Herr 
Teufelsdrockh's — a  laugh  of  the  whole  man  from  head 
to  heel.  If  he  told  a  story,  he  related  it  in  such  a  way, 
as  to  convince  one  of  its  truthfulness ;  his  face  was  so 
lit  up  by  the  sly  fun  it  contained,  that  I  was  sure  the 
story  was  worth  relating,  and  worth  listeuing  to. 

The  wan  features  which  had  shocked  me  at  first 
meeting,  the  heavy  step  which  told  of  age  and  hard 
travel,  the  grey  beard  and  bowed  shoulders,  belied  the 
man.  Underneath  that  well-worn  exterior  lay  an 
endless  fund  of  high  spirits  and  inexhaustible  humor ; 
that  rugged  frame  of  his  enclosed  a  young  and  most 
exuberant  soul.  Every  day  I  heard  innumerable  jokes 
and  pleasant  anecdotes  ;  interesting  hunting  stories,  in 
which  his  friends  Oswell,  Webb,  Vardon,  and  Gordon 
Cumming  were  almost  always  the  chief  actors.  I  was 
not  sure,  at  first,  but  this  joviality,  humor,  and  abundant 
animal  spirits  were  the  result  of  a  joyous  hysteria ;  but 
as  I  found  they  continued  while  I  was  with  him,  I  am 
obliged  to  think  them  natural. 

Another  thing  which  specially  attracted  my  attention 
was  his  wonderfully  retentive  memory.  If  we  re- 
member the  many  years  he  has  spent  in  Africa, 
deprived  of  books,  we  may  well  think  it  an  uncommon 
memory  that  can  recite  whole  poems  from  Byron, 
Burns,  Tennyson,  Longfellow,  Whittier,  and  Lowell. 
The  reason  of  this  may  be  found,  perhaps,  in  the  fact, 
that  he  has  lived  all  his  life  almost,  we  may  say, 
within  himself.  Zimmerman,  a  great  student  of 
human  nature,  says  on  this  subject :  "  The  unen- 
cumbered mind  recalls  all  that  it  has  read,  that  all 
pleased  the  eye,  and  delighted  the  ear  ;  and  reflecting 

2  F 


434 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


on  every  idea  which  either  observation,  or  expe- 
rience, or  discourse  has  produced,  gains  new  infor- 
mation by  every  reflection.  The  intellect  contemplates 
all  the  former  scenes  of  life ;  views  by  anticipation 
those  that  are  yet  to  come ;  and  blends  all  ideas  of  past 
and  future  in  the  actual  enjoyment  of  the  present 
moment."  He  has  lived  in  a  world  which  revolved 
inwardly,  out  of  which  he  seldom  awoke  except  to 
attend  to  the  immediate  practical  necessities  of  himself 
and  people  ;  then  relapsed  again  into  the  same  happy 
inner  world,  which  he  must  have  peopled  with  his  own 
friends,  relations,  acquaintances,  familiar  readings, 
ideas,  and  associations ;  so  that  wherever  he  might 
be.  or  by  whatsoever  he  was  surrounded,  his 
own  world  always  possessed  more  attractions  to  his 
cultured  mind  than  were  yielded  by  external  cir- 
cumstances. 

The  study  of  Dr.  Livingstone  would  not  be 
complete  if  we  did  not  take  the  religious  side  of  his 
character  into  consideration.  His  religion  is  not  of 
the  theoretical  kind,  but  it  is  a  constant,  earnest, 
sincere  practice.  It  is  neither  demonstrative  nor  loud, 
but  manifests  itself  in  a  quiet,  practical  way,  and  is 
always  at  work.  It  is  not  aggressive,  which  sometimes 
is  troublesome,  if  not  impertinent.  In  him,  religion 
exhibits  its  loveliest  features  ;  it  governs  his  conduct  not 
only  towards  his  servants,  but  towards  the  natives,  the 
bigoted  Mohammedans,  and  all  who  come  in  contact 
with  him.  Without  it,  Livingstone,  with  his  ardent 
temperament,  his  enthusiasm,  his  high  spirit  and 
courage,  must  have  become  uncompanionable,  and  a 
hard  master.  Religion  has  tamed  him,  and  made  him  a 
Christian  gentleman ;  the  crude  and  wilful  have  been 
refined  and  subdued ;  religion  has  made  him  the  most 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


±35 


companionable  of  men  and  indulgent  of  masters — a 
man  whose  society  is  pleasurable  to  a  degree. 

I  have  often  heard  our  servants  discuss  our  respective 
merits.  "  Your  master,"  say  my  servants  to  Living- 
stone's, "  is  a  good  man — a  very  good  man  ;  he  does 
not  beat  you,  for  he  has  a  kind  heart ;  but  ours — oh ! 
he  is  sharp — hot  as  fire  " — "  mkali  sana,  kana  moto." 
From  being  hated  and  thwarted  in  every  possible  way 
by  the  Arabs  and  half-castes  upon  first  arrival  in  Ujiji, 
he  has,  through  his  uniform  kindness  and  mild,  pleasant 
temper,  won  all  hearts.  I  observed  that  universal 
respect  was  paid  to  him.  Even  the  Mohammedans 
never  passed  his  house  without  calling  to  pay  their 
compliments,  and  to  say,  "  The  blessing  of  God  rest  on 
you."  Each  Sunday  morning  he  gathers  his  little 
flock  around  him,  and  reads  prayers  and  a  chapter  from 
the  Bible,  in  a  natural,  unaffected,  and  sincere  tone  ; 
and  afterwards  delivers  a  short  address  in  the  Kisawa- 
hili  language,  about  the  subject  read  to  them,  which  is 
listened  to  with  evident  interest  and  attention. 

There  is  another  point  in  Livingstone's  character 
about  which  readers  of  his  books,  and  students  of  his 
travels,  would  like  to  know,  and  that  is  his  ability  to 
withstand  the  dreadful  climate  of  Central  Africa,  and 
the  consistent  energy  with  which  he  follows  up  his 
explorations.  His  consistent  energy  is  native  to  him 
and  to  his  race.  He  is  a  very  fine  example  of  the 
perseverance,  doggedness,  and  tenacity  which  charac- 
terise the  Anglo-Saxon  spirit ;  but  his  ability  to 
withstand  the  climate  is  due  not  only  to  the  happy 
constitution  with  which  he  was  born,  but  to  the  strictly 
temperate  life  he  has  ever  led.  A  drunkard  and  a 
man  of  vicious  habits  could  never  have  withstood  the 
climate  of  Central  Africa. 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE 


The  second  day  after  my  arrival  in  Ujiji  I  asked  the 
Doctor  if  he  did  not  feel  a  desire,  sometimes,  to  visit 
his  country,  and  take  a  little  rest  after  his  six  years' 
explorations ;  and  the  answer  he  gave  me  fully  reveals 
the  man.    Said  he  : 

"  I  would  like  very  much  to  go  home  and  see  my 
children  once  again,  but  I  cannot  bring  my  heart  to 
abandon  the  task  I  have  undertaken,  when  it  is  so 
nearly  completed.  It  only  requires  six  or  seven 
months  more  to  trace  the  true  source  that  I  have 
discovered  with  Petherick's  branch  of  the  White  Nile, 
or  with  the  Albert  N'Yanza  of  Sir  Samuel  Baker 
which  is  the  lake  called  by  the  natives  'Chowambe.' 
Why  should  I  go  home  before  my  task  is  ended,  to 
have  to  come  back  again  to  do  what  I  can  very  well 
do  now  ?" 

"  And  why,"  I  asked,  "  did  you  come  so  far  back 
without  finishing  the  task  which  you  say  you  have  got 
to  do  ?" 

"  Simply  because  I  was  forced.  My  men  would  not 
budge  a  step  forward.  They  mutinied,  and  formed  a 
secret  resolution — if  I  still  insisted  on  going  on — to 
raise  a  disturbance  in  the  country,  and  after  they  had 
effected  it  to  abandon  me  ;  in  which  case  I  should  have 
been  killed.  It  was  dangerous  to  go  any  further.  I  had 
explored  six  hundred  miles  of  the  watershed,  had  traced 
all  the  principal  streams  which  discharged  their  waters 
into  the  central  line  of  drainage,  but  when  about  start- 
ing to  explore  the  last  hundred  miles  the  hearts  of  my 
people  failed  them,  and  they  set  about  frustrating  me 
in  every  possible  way.  Now,  having  returned  seven 
hundred  miles  to  get  a  new  supply  of  stores,  and  an- 
other escort,  I  find  myself  destitute  of  even  the  means 
to  live  but  for  a  few  weeks,  and  sick  in  mind  and  body/' 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  437 

Here  I  may  pause  to  ask  the  reader  how  he  would 
have  comported  himself  in  such  a  crisis,  under  such  an 
accumulation  of  difficulties.  Many  would  have  been  in 
exceeding  hurry  to  get  home  to  tell  the  news  of  the 
continued  explorations  and  discoveries,  and  to  relieve 
the  anxiety  of  the  sorrowing  family  and  friends  await- 
ing their  return.  Enough  surely  had  been  accom- 
plished towards  the  solution  of  the  problem  that  had 
exercised  the  minds  of  his  scientific  associates  of  the 
Eoyal  Geographical  Society.  This  was  no  negative 
exploration,  it  was  hard,  earnest  labor  of  years,  self- 
abnegation,  enduring  patience,  and  exalted  fortitude 
such  as  ordinary  men  fail  to  exhibit. 

Suppose  Livingstone,  following  the  custom  of  other 
travellers,  had  hurried  to  the  coast  after  he  had  dis- 
covered Lake  Bangweolo,  to  tell  the  news  to  the  geo- 
graphical world  ;  then  had  returned  to  discover  Moero, 
and  run  away  again ;  then  came  back  once  more  only 
to  discover  Kamolondo,  and  to  race  back  again.  But 
no  ;  he  not  only  discovers  the  Chambezi,  Lake  Bang- 
weolo, Luapula  River,  Lake  Moero,  Lnalaba  River,  and 
Lake  Kamolondo,  but  he  still  tirelessly  urges  his  steps 
forward  to  put  the  final  completion  to  the  grand 
lacustrine  river  system.  Had  he  followed  the  example 
of  ordinary  explorers,  he  would  have  been  running 
backwards  and  forwards  to  tell  the  news,  instead  of 
exploring ;  and  he  might  have  been  able  to  write  a 
volume  upon  the  discovery  of  each  lake,  and  earn 
much  money  thereby.  They  are  no  few  months'  explo- 
rations that  form  the  contents  of  his  books.  His 
'  Missionary  Travels '  embraces  a  period  of  sixteen  years ; 
his  book  on  the  Zambezi,  five  years  ;  and  if  the  great 
traveller  lives  to  come  home,  his  third  book,  the  grandest 
of  all,  must  contain  the  records  of  eight  or  nine  years. 


438 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


It  is  a  principle  with  Livingstone  to  do  well  what 
he  undertakes  to  do ;  and  in  the  consciousness  that 
he  is  doing  it,  despite  the  yearning  for  his  home 
which  is  sometimes  overpowering,  he  finds,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  contentment,  if  not  happiness.  And 
though  to  men  differently  constituted  a  long  residence 
amongst  the  savages  of  Africa  would  be  contemplated 
with  horror,  yet  Livingstone's  mind  can  find  pleasure 
and  food  for  philosophic  studies.  The  wonders  of  pri- 
meval nature,  the  great  forests  and  sublime  mountains, 
the  perennial  streams  and  sources  of  the  great  lakes, 
the  marvels  of  the  earth,  the  splendors  of  the  tropic 
sky  by  day  and  by  night — all  terrestrial  and  celestial 
phenomena  are  manna  to  a  man  of  such  self-abnegation 
and  devoted  philanthropic  spirit.  He  can  be  charmed 
with  the  primitive  simplicity  of  Bthiop's  dusky  children, 
with  whom  he  has  spent  so  many  years  of  his  life ;  he 
has  a  sturdy  faith  in  their  capabilities ;  sees  virtue  in 
them  where  others  see  nothing  but  savagery ;  and 
wherever  he  has  gone  among  them,  he  has  sought  to 
elevate  a  peo]3le  that  were  apparently  forgotten  of  God 
and  Christian  man. 

One  night  I  took  out  my  note-book,  and  prepared  to 
take  down  from  his  own  lips  what  he  had  to  say  about 
his  travels;  and  unhesitatingly  he  related  his  expe- 
riences, of  which  the  following  is  a  summary : 

Dr.  David  Livingstone  left  the  island  of  Zanzibar 
in  March,  1866.  On  the  7th  of  the  following  month  he 
departed  from  Mikindiny  Bay  for  the  interior,  with  an 
expedition  consisting  of  twelve  Sepoys  from  Bombay, 
nine  men  from  Johanna,  of  the  Comoro  Islands,  seven 
liberated  slaves,  and  two  Zambezi  men,  taking  them  as 
an  experiment;  six  camels,  three  buffaloes,  two  mules, 
and  three  donkeys.    He  had  thus  thirty  men  with  him. 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


439 


twelve  of  whom,  viz.,  the  Sepoys,  were  to  act  as  guards 
for  the  expedition.  They  were  mostly  armed  with  the 
Enfield  rifles  presented  to  the  Doctor  by  the  Bombay 
Government.  The  baggage  of  the  expedition  consisted 
of  ten  bales  of  cloth  and  two  bags  of  beads,  which  were 
to  serve  as  the  currency  by  which  they  would  be  enabled 
to  purchase  the  necessaries  of  life  in  the  countries  the 
Doctor  intended  to  visit.  Besides  the  cumbrous  moneys, 
they  carried  several  boxes  of  instruments,  such  as  chro- 
nometers, air  thermometers,  sextant,  and  artificial 
horizon,  boxes  containing  clothes,  medicines,  and  per- 
sonal necessaries.  The  expedition  travelled  up  the  left- 
bank  of  the  Rovuma  River,  a  route  as  full  of  difficulties 
as  any  that  could  be  chosen.  For  miles  Livingstone 
and  his  party  had  to  cut  their  way  with  their  axes 
through  the  dense  and  almost  impenetrable  jungles 
which  lined  the  river's  banks.  The  road  was  a  mere 
footpath,  leading  in  the  most  erratic  fashion  into  and 
through  the  dense  vegetation,  seeking  the  easiest  outlet 
from  it  without  any  regard  to  the  course  it  ran.  The 
pagazis  were  able  to  proceed  easily  enough,  but  the 
camels,  on  account  of  their  enormous  height,  could  not 
advance  a  step  without  the  axes  of.  the  party  first 
clearing  the  way.  These  tools  of  foresters  were  almost 
always  required ;  but  the  advance  of  the  expedition  was 
often  retarded  by  the  unwillingness  of  the  Sepoys  and 
Johanna  men  to  work. 

Soon  after  the  departure  of  the  expedition  from  the 
coast,  the  murmurings  and  complaints  of  these  men 
began,  and  upon  every  occasion  and  at  every  oppor- 
tunity they  evinced  a  decided  hostility  to  an  advance. 
In  order  to  prevent  the  progress  of  the  Doctor,  in  hopes 
that  it  would  compel  him  to  return  to  the  coast,  these 
men  so  cruelly  treated  the  animals  that  before  long  there 


±40 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


was  not  one  left  alive.  But  as  this  scheme  failed,  they 
set  about  instigating  the  natives  against  the  white  man, 
whom  they  accused  most  wantonly  of  strange  practices. 
As  this  plan  was  most  likely  to  succeed,  and  as  it  was 
dangerous  to  have  such  men  with  him,  the  Doctor 
arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  it  was  best  to  discharge 
them,  and  accordingly  sent  the  Sepoys  back  to  the 
coast ;  but  not  without  having  first  furnished  them  with 
the  means  of  subsistence  on  their  journey  to  the  coast. 
These  men  were  such  a  disreputable  set  that  the  natives 
spoke  of  them  as  the  Doctor's  slaves.  One  of  their 
worst  sins  was  their  custom  of  giving  their  guns  and 
ammunition  to  carry  to  the  first  woman  or  boy  they 
met,  whom  they  impressed  for  that  purpose  by  such 
threats  or  promises  as  they  were  totally  unable  to 
perform,  and  unwarranted  in  making.  An  hour's  march- 
ing was  sufficient  to  fatigue  them,  after  which  they  lay 
down  on  the  road  to  bewail  their  hard  fate,  and  concoct 
new  schemes  to  frustrate  their  leader's  purposes.  To- 
wards night  they  generally  made  their  appearance  at 
the  camping-ground  with  the  looks  of  half-dead  men. 
Such  men  naturally  made  but  a  poor  escort ;  for,  had 
the  party  been  attacked  by  a  wandering  tribe  of  natives 
of  any  strength,  the  Doctor  could  have  made  no  defence, 
and  no  other  alternative  would  have  been  left  to  him 
but  to  surrender  and  be  ruined. 

The  Doctor  and  his  little  party  arrived  on  the  18th  July, 
1866,  at  a  village  belonging  to  a  chief  of  the  Wahiyou, 
situate  eight  days'  march  south  of  the  Rovuma,  and  over- 
looking the  watershed  of  the  Lake  Nyassa.  The  terri- 
tory lying  between  the  Rovuma  River  and  this  Wahiyou 
chieftain  was  an  uninhabited  wilderness,  during  the 
transit  of  which  Livingstone  and  his  expedition  suffered 
considerably  from  hunger  and  desertion  of  men. 


Nov.  1871.1     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


441 


Early  in  August,  1866,  the  Doctor  came  to  the  country 
of  Mponda,  a  chief  who  dwelt  near  the  Lake  Nyassa. 
On  the  road  thither,  two  of  the  liberated  slaves  deserted 
him.  Here  also,  Wekotani — not  Wakotani — a  protege 
of  the  Doctor,  insisted  upon  his  discharge,  alleging  as 
an  excuse — an  excuse  which  the  Doctor  subsequently 
found  to  be  untrue — that  he  had  found  his  brother. 
He  also  stated  that  his  family  lived  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Nyassa  Lake.  He  further  stated  that  Mponda's 
favourite  wife  was  his  sister.  Perceiving  that  Weko- 
tani was  unwilling  to  go  with  him  further,  the  Doctor 
took  him  to  Mponda,  who  now  saw  and  heard  of  him 
for  the  first  time,  and,  having  furnished  the  ungrateful 
boy  with  enough  cloth  and  beads  to  keep  him  until  his 
"  big  brother  "  should  call  for  him,  left  him  with  the 
chief,  after  first  assuring  himself  that  he  would 
receive  honourable  treatment  from  him.  The  Doctor 
also  gave  Wekotani  writing-paper — as  he  could  read 
and  write,  being  accomplishments  acquired  at  Bombay, 
where  he  had  been  put  to  school — so  that,  should 
he  at  any  time  feel  disposed,  he  might  write  to  Mr. 
Horace  Waller  or  to  himself.  The  Doctor  further 
enjoined  him  not  to  join  in  any  of  the  slave  raids 
usually  made  by  his  countrymen,  the  men  of  Nyassa, 
on  their  neighbours.  Upon  finding  that  his  application 
for  a  discharge  wras  successful,  Wekotani  endeavoured 
to  induce  Chumah,  another  protege  of  the  Doctor's,  and 
a  companion,  or  chum,  of  Wekotani,  to  leave  the 
Doctor's  service  and  proceed  with  him,  promising,  as  a 
bribe,  a  wu'fe  and  plenty  of  pombe  from  his  "  big- 
brother. "  Chumah,  upon  referring  the  matter  to  the 
Doctor,  was  advised  not  to  go,  as  he  (the  Doctor) 
strongly  suspected  that  Wekotani  wranted  only  to  make 
him  his  slave.     Chumah  wisely  withdrew  from  his 


442 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


tempter.  From  Mponda's,  the  Doctor  proceeded  to  the 
heel  of  the  Nyassa,  to  the  village  of  a  Babisa  chief, 
who  required  medicine  for  a  skin  disease.  With  his 
usual  kindness,  he  stayed  at  this  chief's  village  to  treat 
his  malady. 

While  here,  a  half-caste  Arab  arrived  from  the 
western  shore  of  the  lake,  and  reported  that  he  had 
been  plundered  by  a  band  of  Mazitu,  at  a  place  which 
the  Doctor  and  Musa,  chief  of  the  Johanna  men,  were 
very  well  aware  was  at  least  150  miles  north-north- 
west of  where  they  were  then  stopping.  Musa,  how- 
ever, for  his  own  reasons— which  will  appear  presently 
— eagerly  listened  to  the  Arab's  tale,  and  gave  full 
credence  to  it.  Having  well  digested  its  horrible 
details,  he  came  to  the  Doctor  to  give  him  the  full 
benefit  of  what  he  had  heard  with  such  willing  ears. 
The  traveller  patiently  listened  to  the  narrative,  which 
lost  nothing  of  its  portentous  significance  through 
Musa's  relation,  and  then  asked  Musa  if  he  believed  it. 
"  Yes,"  answered  Musa,  readily  ;  "  he  tell  me  true,  true. 
I  ask  him  good,  and  he  tell  true,  true."  The  Doctor, 
however,  said  he  did  not  believe  it,  for  the  Mazitu 
would  not  have  been  satisfied  with  merely  plundering 
a  man,  they  would  have  murdered  him ;  but  suggested, 
in  order  to  allay  the  fears  of  his  Moslem  subordinate, 
that  they  should  both  proceed  to  the  chief  with  whom 
they  were  staying,  who,  being  a  sensible  man,  would 
be  able  to  advise  them  as  to  the  probability  or  impro- 
bability of  the  tale  being  correct.  Together,  they  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Babisa  chief,  who,  when  he  had  heard  the 
Arab's  story,  unhesitatingly  denounced  the  Arab  as  a 
liar,  and  his  story  without  the  least  foundation  in  fact ; 
giving  as  a  reason  that,  if  the  Mazitu  had  been  lately  in 
that  vicinity,  he  should  have  heard  of  it  soon  enough. 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


443 


But  Musa  broke  out  with  "  No,  no,  Doctor ;  no,  no, 
no ;  T  no  want  to  go  to  Mazitu.  I  no  want  Mazitu  to 
kill  me.  I  want  see  my  father,  my  mother,  my  child, 
in  Johanna.  I  want  no  Mazitu."  These  are  Musa's 
ipsissima  verba. 

To  which  the  Doctor  replied,  "  I  don't  want  Mazitu 
to  kill  me  either ;  but,  as  you  are  afraid  of  them,  I 
promise  to  go  straight  west  until  we  get  far  past  the 
beat  of  the  Mazitu." 

Musa  was  not  satisfied,  but  kept  moaning  and  sorrow- 
ing, saying,  "  If  we  had  two  hundred  guns  with  us  I 
would  go  ;  but  our  small  party  of  men  will  attack  by 
night,  and  kill  all." 

The  Doctor  repeated  his  promise,  "  But  I  will  not  go 
near  them  ;  I  will  go  west." 

As  soon  as  he  turned  his  face  westward,  Musa  and 
the  Johanna  men  ran  away  in  a  body. 

The  Doctor  says,  in  commenting  upon  Musa's  con- 
duct, that  he  felt  strongly  tempted  to  shoot  Musa  and 
another  ringleader,  but  was,  nevertheless,  glad  that  he 
did  not  soil  his  hands  with  their  vile  blood.  A  day  or 
two  afterwards,  another  of  his  men — Simeon  Price  by 
name — came  to  the  Doctor  with  the  same  tale  about 
the  Mazitu,  but,  compelled  by  the  scant  number  of  his 
people  to  repress  all  such  tendencies  to  desertion  and 
faint-heartedness,  the  Doctor  silenced  him  at  once,  and 
sternly  forbade  him  to  utter  the  name  of  the  Mazitu 
any  more. 

Had  the  natives  not  assisted  him,  he  must  have  de- 
spaired of  ever  being  able  to  penetrate  the  wild  and 
unexplored  interior  which  he  was  now  about  to  tread. 
"Fortunately,"  as  the  Doctor  says  with  unction,  "I  was 
in  a  country  now,  after  leaving  the  shores  of  Nyassa, 
which  the  foot  of  the  slave-trader  has  not  trod ;  it 


*44 


ROW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


was  a  new  and  virgin  land,  and  of  course,  as  I  have 
always  found  in  such  cases,  the  natives  were  really  good 
and  hospitable,  and  for  very  small  portions  of  cloth 
my  baggage  was  conveyed  from  village  to  village  by 
them."  In  many  other  ways  the  traveller,  in  his  ex- 
tremity, was  kindly  treated  by  the  yet  unsophisticated 
and  innocent  natives. 

On  leaving  this  hospitable  region  in  the  early  part 
of  December,  1866,  the  Doctor  entered  a  country  where 
the  Mazitu  had  exercised  their  customary  marauding 
propensities.  The  land  was  swept  clean  of  provisions 
and  cattle,  and  the  people  had  emigrated  to  other 
countries,  beyond  the  bounds  of  those  ferocious  plun- 
derers. Again  the  expedition  was  besieged  by  the 
pinching  hunger  they  suffered  ;  they  had  recourse  to 
the  wild  fruits  which  some  parts  of  the  country  fur- 
nished. At  intervals  the  condition  of  the  hard-pressed 
band  was  made  worse  by  the  heartless  desertion  of  some 
of  its  members,  who  more  than  once  departed  with  the 
Doctor's  personal  kit,  changes  of  clothes,  linen,  &c. 
With  more  or  less  misfortunes  constantly  dogging 
his  footsteps,  he  traversed  in  safety  the  countries 
of  the  Babisa,  Bobemba,  Barungu,  Ba-ulungu,  and 
Lunda. 

In  the  country  of  Lunda  lives  the  famous  Cazembe, 
who  was  first  made  known  to  Europeans  by  Dr.  Lacerda, 
the  Portuguese  traveller.  Cazembe  is  a  most  intelligent 
prince  ;  he  is  a  tall,  stalwart  man,  who  wears  a  peculiar 
kind  of  dress,  made  of  crimson  print,  in  the  form  of  a 
prodigious  kilt.  In  this  state  dress,  King  Cazembe 
received  Dr.  Livingstone,  surrounded  by  his  chiefs  and 
body-guards.  A  chief,  who  had  been  deputed  by  the 
King  and  elders  to  discover  all  about  the  white  man, 
then  stood  up  before  the  assembly,  and  in  a  loud  voice 


Nov  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE  445 

gave  the  result  of  the  inquiry  he  had  instituted.  He  had 
heard  that  the  white  man  had  come  to  look  for  waters, 
for  rivers,  and  seas ;  though  he  could  not  understand 
what  the  white  man  could  want  with  such  things,  he 
had  no  doubt  that  the  object  was  good.  Then  Cazembe 
asked  what  the  Doctor  proposed  doing,  and  where  lie 
thought  of  going.  The  Doctor  replied  that  he  had 
thought  of  proceeding  south,  as  he  had  heard  of  lakes 
and  rivers  being  in  that  direction.  Cazembe  asked, 
"  What  can  you  want  to  go  there  for  ?  The  water  is 
close  here.  There  is  plenty  of  large  water  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood." Before  breaking  up  the  assembly,  Cazembe 
gave  orders  to  let  the  white  man  go  where  he  would 
through  his  country  undisturbed  and  unmolested.  He 
was  the  first  Englishman  he  had  seen,  he  said,  and  he 
liked  him. 

Shortly  after  his  introduction  to  the  King,  the  Queen 
entered  the  large  house,  surrounded  by  a  body-guard 
of  Amazons  with  spears.  She  was  a  fine,  tall,  handsome 
young  woman,  and  evidently  thought  she  was  about  to 
make  an  impression  upon  the  rustic  white  man,  for  she 
had  clothed  herself  after  a  most  royal  fashion,  and  was 
armed  with  a  ponderous  spear.  But  her  appearance — 
so  different  from  what  the  Doctor  had  imagined — caused 
him  to  laugh,  which  entirely  spoiled  the  effect  in- 
tended ;  for  the  laugh  of  the  Doctor  was  so  contagious, 
that  she  herself  was  the  first  to  imitate  it,  and  the 
Amazons,  courtier-like,  followed  suit.  Much  discon- 
certed by  this,  the  Queen  ran  back,  followed  by  her 
obedient  damsels — a  retreat  most  undignified  and  un- 
queenlike,  compared  with  her  majestic  advent  into  the 
Doctor's  presence.  But  Livingstone  will  have  much  to 
say  about  his  reception  at  this  court,  and  about  this 
interesting  King  and  Queen  ;  and  who  can  so  well  relate 


♦46 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  scenes  he  witnessed,  and  which  belong  exclusively 
to  him,  as  he  himself? 

Soon  after  his  arrival  in  the  country  of  Lunda,  or 
Londa,  and  before  he  had  entered  the  district  ruled  ovei 
by  Cazembe,  he  had  crossed  a  river  called  the  Charnbezi, 
which  was  quite  an  important  stream.  The  similarity 
of  the  name  with  that  large  and  noble  river  south, 
which  will  be  for  ever  connected  with  his  name,  misled 
Livingstone  at  that  time,  and  he,  accordingly,  did  not 
pay  to  it  the  attention  it  deserved,  believing  that  the 
Charnbezi  was  but  the  head- waters  of  the  Zambezi,  and 
consequently  had  no  bearing  or  connection  with  the 
sources  of  the  river  of  Egypt,  of  which  he  was  in  search. 
His  fault  was  in  relying  too  implicitly  upon  the  cor- 
rectness of  Portuguese  information.  This  error  it  cost 
him  many  months  of  tedious  labour  and  travel  to  rectify. 

From  the  beginning  of  1867 — the  time  of  his  arrival 
at  Cazembe' s — till  the  middle  of  March,  1869 — the  time 
of  his  arrival  at  Ujiji — he  was  mostly  engaged  in  cor- 
recting the  errors  and  misrepresentations  of  the  Por- 
tuguese travellers.  The  Portuguese,  in  speaking  of 
the  River  Charnbezi,  invariably  spoke  of  it  as  "  our 
own  Zambezi," — that  is,  the  Zambezi  which  flows 
through  the  Portuguese  possessions  of  the  Mozambique. 
"  In  going  to  Cazembe  from  Nyassa,"  said  they,  "  you 
will  cross  our  own  Zambezi."  Such  positive  and 
reiterated  information — given  not  only  orally,  but  in 
their  books  and  maps  —  was,  naturally,  confusing. 
When  the  Doctor  perceived  that  what  he  saw  and 
what  they  described  were  at  variance,  out  of  a  sincere 
wish  to  be  correct,  and  lest  he  might  have  been  mis- 
taken himself,  he  started  to  retravel  the  ground  he 
had  travelled  before.  Over  and  over  again  he  traversed 
the  several  countries  watered  by  the  several  rivers  of 


tf«¥.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  44? 

the  complicated  water  system,  like  an  uneasy  spirit. 
Over  and  over  again  he  asked  the  same  questions  from 
the  different  peoples  he  met,  until  he  was  obliged  to 
desist,  lest  they  might  say,  "  The  man  is  mad ;  he  has 
got  water  on  the  brain !" 

But  his  travels  and  tedious  labours  in  Lunda  and 
the  adjacent  countries  have  established  beyond  doubt 
— first,  that  the  Chambezi  is  a  totally  distinct  river 
from  the  Zambezi  of  the  Portuguese ;  and,  secondly, 
that  the  Chambezi,  starting  from  about  latitude  11 
south,  is  no  other  than  the  most  southerly  feeder  of 
the  great  Nile ;  thus  giving  that  famous  river  a  length 
of  over  2,000  miles  of  direct  latitude  ;  making  it,  second 
to  the  Mississippi,  the  longest  river  in  the  world.  The 
real  and  true  name  of  the  Zambezi  is  Dombazi.  When 
Lacerda  and  his  Portuguese  successors,  coming  to 
Cazembe,  crossed  the  Chambezi,  and  heard  its  name, 
they  very  naturally  set  it  down  as  "  our  own  Zambezi/7 
and,  without  further  inquiry,  sketched  it  as  running  in 
that  direction. 

During  his  researches  in  that  region,  so  pregnant 
in  discoveries,  Livingstone  came  to  a  lake  lying 
north-east  of  Cazembe,  which  the  natives  call  Liemba. 
from  the  country  of  that  name  which  bordered  it  on 
the  east  and  south.  In  tracing  the  lake  north,  he 
found  it  to  be  none  other  than  the  Tanganika,  or 
the  south-eastern  extremity  of  it,  which  looks,  on  the 
Doctor's  map,  very  much  like  an  outline  of  Italy.  The 
latitude  of  the  southern  end  of  this  great  body  of  water 
is  about  8°  42'  south,  which  thus  gives  it  a  length, 
from  north  to  south,  of  3 (JO  geographical  miles.  From 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  Tanganika  he  crossed 
Marungu,  and  came  in  sight  of  Lake  Moero.  Tracing 
this  lake,  which  is  about  sixty  miles  in  length,  to  its 


448 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


southern  head,  he  found  a  river,  called  the  Luapula, 
entering  it  from  that  direction.  Following  the  Luapula 
south,  he  found  it  issue  from  the  large  lake  of  Bang- 
weolo,  which  is  nearly  as  large  in  superficial  area  as 
the  Tanganika.  In  exploring  for  the  waters  which 
discharged  themselves  into  the  lake,  he  found  that  by  far 
the  most  important  of  these  feeders  was  the  Chambezi ; 
so  that  he  had  thus  traced  the  Chambezi  from  its  source 
to  Lake  Bangweolo,  and  the  issue  from  its  northern 
head,  under  the  name  of  Luapula,  and  found  it  enter 
Lake  Moero.  Again  he  returned  to  Cazembe's,  well 
satisfied  that  the  river  running  north  through  three 
degrees  of  latitude  could  not  be  the  river  running 
south  under  the  name  of  Zambezi,  though  there  might 
be  a  remarkable  resemblance  in  their  names. 

At  Cazembe's  he  found  an  old  white-bearded  half- 
caste  named  Mahommed  bin  Sali,  who  was  kept  as  a 
kind  of  prisoner  at  large  by  the  King  because  of  certain 
suspicious  circumstances  attending  his  advent  and  stay 
m  the  country.  Through  Livingstone's  influence 
Mahommed  bin  Sali  obtained  his  release.  On  the 
road  to  Ujiji  he  had  bitter  cause  to  regret  having 
exerted  himself  in  the  half-caste's  behalf.  He  turned 
out  to  be  a  most  ungrateful  wretch,  who  poisoned  the 
minds  of  the  Doctor's  few  followers,  and  ingratiated 
himself  with  them  by  selling  the  favours  of  his  con- 
cubines to  them,  by  which  he  reduced  them  to  a  kind  of 
bondage  under  him.  The  Doctor  was  deserted  by  all 
but  two,  even  faithful  Susi  and  Chumah  deserted 'him 
for  the  service  of  Mahommed  bin  Sali.  But  they  soon 
repented,  and  returned  to  their  allegiance.  From  the 
day  he  had  the  vile  old  man  in  his  company  manifold 
and  bitter  misfortunes  followed  the  Doctor 'up  to  hi? 
arrival  at  Ujiji  in  March,  1869. 


Nov.  1871.]      INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  444) 

From  the  date  of  his  arrival  until  the  end  of  June, 
1869,  he  remained  at  Ujiji,  whence  he  dated  those 
letters  which,  though  the  outside  world  still  doubted 
his  being  alive,  satisfied  the  minds  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  people,  and  his  intimate  friends,  that  he 
still  existed,  and  that  Musa's  tale  was  the  false  though 
ingenious  fabrication  of  a  cowardly  deserter.  It  was 
during  this  time  that  the  thought  occurred  to  him  of 
sailing  around  the  Lake  Tanganika,  but  the  Arabs  and 
natives  were  so  bent  upon  fleecing  him  that,  had  he 
undertaken  it,  the  remainder  of  his  goods  would  not 
have  enabled  him  to  explore  the  central  line  of  drainage, 
the  initial  point  of  which  he  found  far  south  of  Cazembe's, 
in  about  latitude  11°,  in  the  river  called  Chambezi. 

In  the  days  when  tired  Captain  Burton  was  resting 
in  Ujiji,  after  his  march  from  the  coast  near  Zanzibar, 
the  land  to  which  Livingstone,  on  his  departure  from 
Ujiji,  bent  his  steps  was  unknown  to  the  Arabs  save  by 
vague  report.  Messrs.  Burton  and  Speke  never  heard 
of  it,  it  seems.  Speke,  who  was  the  geographer  of 
Burton's  expedition,  heard  of  a  place  called  Urua, 
which  he  placed  on  his  map,  according  to  the  general 
direction  indicated  by  the  Arabs ;  but  the  most  enter- 
prising of  the  Arabs,  in  their  search  after  ivory,  only 
touched  the  frontiers  of  Rua,  as  the  natives  and  Living- 
stone call  it ;  for  Rua  is  an  immense  country,  with  a 
length  of  six  degrees  of  latitude,  and  as  yet  an  un- 
defined breadth  from  east  to  west. 

At  the  end  of  June,  1869,  Livingstone  quitted 
Ujiji  and  crossed  over  to  Uguhha,  on  the  western 
shore,  for  his  last  and  greatest  series  of  explorations ; 
the  result  of  which  was  the  further  discovery  of  a  lake 
of  considerable  magnitude  connected  with  Moero  by 
the  large  river  called  the  Lualaba,  and  which  was  a 

2  G 


450 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


continuation  of  the  chain  of  lakes  he  had  previously 
discovered. 

From  the  port  of  Uguhha  he  set  off,  in  company  with 
a  body  of  traders,  in  an  almost  direct  westerly  course, 
for  the  country  of  Drua.  Fifteen  days'  march  brought 
them  to  Bambarre,  the  first  important  ivory  depot 
in  Manyema,  or,  as  the  natives  pronounce  it,  Ma- 
nyuema.  For  nearly  six  months  he  was  detained  at 
Bambarre  from  ulcers  in  the  feet,  which  discharged 
bloody  ichor  as  soon  as  he  set  them  on  the  ground. 
When  recovered,  he  set  off  in  a  northerly  direction,  and 
after  several  days  came  to  a  broad  lacustrine  river, 
called  the  Lualaba,  flowing  northward  and  westward, 
and  in  some  places  southward,  in  a  most  confusing  way. 
The  river  was  from  one  to  three  miles  broad.  By 
exceeding  pertinacity  he  contrived  to  follow  its  erratic 
course,  until  he  saw  the  Lualaba  enter  the  narrow,  long 
lake  of  Kamolonclo,  in  about  latitude  6°  30'.  Retracing 
this  to  the  south,  he  came  to  the  point  where  he  had 
seen  the  Luapula  enter  Lake  Moero. 

One  feels  quite  enthusiastic  when  listening  to  Living- 
stone's description  of  the  beauties  of  Moero  scenery. 
Pent  in  on  all  sides  by  high  mountains,  clothed  to  the 
edges  with  the  rich  vegetation  of  the  tropics,  the  Moero 
discharges  its  superfluous  waters  through  a  deep  rent 
in  the  bosom  of  the  mountains.  The  impetuous  and 
grand  river  roars  through  the  chasm  with  the  thunder 
of  a  cataract,  but  soon  after  leaving  its  confined  and 
deep  bed  it  expands  into  the  calm  and  broad  Lualaba, 
stretching  over  miles  of  ground.  After  making  great 
bends  west  and  south-west,  and  then  curving  north- 
ward, it  enters  Kamolondo.  By  the  natives  it  is  called 
the  Lualaba,  but  the  Doctor,  in  order  to  distinguish  it 
from  other  rivers  of  the  same  name,  has  given  it  the 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


451 


name  of  "  Webb's  River,"  after  Mr.  Webb,  the  wealthy 
proprietor  of  Newstead  Abbey,  whom  the  Doctor  distin- 
guishes as  one  of  his  oldest  and  most  consistent  friends. 
Away  to  the  south-west  from  Kamolondo  is  another 
large  lake,  which  discharges  its  waters  by  the  important 
River  Loeki,  or  Lomami,  into  the  great  Lualaba.  To 
this  lake,  known  as  Chebungo  by  the  natives,  Doctor 
Livingstone  has  given  the  name  of  "  Lincoln,"  to  be 
hereafter  distinguished  on  maps  and  in  books  as  Lake 
Lincoln,  in  memory  of  Abraham  Lincoln,  our  murdered 
President.  This  was  done  from  the  vivid  impression 
produced  on  his  mind  by  hearing  a  portion  of  his 
inauguration  speech  read  from  an  English  pulpit,  wrhich 
related  to  the  causes  that  induced  him  to  issue  his 
Emancipation  Proclamation,  by  which  memorable  deed 
4,000,000  of  slaves  were  for  ever  freed.  To  the  me- 
mory of  the  man  whose  labours  on  behalf  of  the  negro 
race  deserves  the  commendation  of  all  good  men, 
Livingstone  has  contributed  a  monument  more  durable 
than  brass  or  stone. 

Entering  Webb's  River  from  the  south-south-west,  a 
little  north  of  Kamolondo,  is  a  large  river  called  Lufira, 
but  the  streams  that  discharge  themselves  from  the  water- 
shed into  the  Lualaba  are  so  numerous  that  the  Doctors 
map  would  not  contain  them,  so  he  has  left  all  out  except 
the  most  important.  Continuing  his  way  north,  tracing 
the  Lualaba  through  its  manifold  and  crooked  curves 
as  far  as  latitude  4°  south,  he  came  to  where  he  heard  of 
another  lake  to  the  north,  into  which  it  ran.  But  here 
you  may  come  to  a  dead  bait,  and  read  what  lies  beyond 

this  spot  thus  This  was  the  furthermost  point, 

whence  he  was  compelled  to  return  on  the  weary  road 
to  Ujiji,  a  distance  of  700  miles. 

In  this  brief  sketch  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  wonderful 


452 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


travels  it  is  to  be  hoped  the  most  superficial  reader,  as 
well  as  the  student  of  geography,  comprehends  this 
grand  system  of  lakes  connected  together  by  Webb's 
River.  To  assist  him,  let  him  glance  at  the  map 
accompanying  this  book.  He  will  then  have  a  fair 
idea  of  what  Dr.  Livingstone  has  been  doing  during 
these  long  years,  and  what  additions  he  has  made  to  the 
study  of  African  geography.  That  this  river,  dis- 
tinguished under  several  titles,  flowing  from  one  lake 
into  another  in  a  northerly  direction,  with  all  its  great 
crooked  bends  and  sinuosities,  is  the  Nile — the  true 
Nile — the  Doctor  has  not  the  least  doubt.  For  a  long 
time  he  entertained  great  scepticism,  because  of  its  deep 
bends  and  curves  west,  and  south-west  even ;  but, 
having  traced  it  from  its  head  waters,  the  Chambezi, 
through  7°  of  latitude— that  is,  from  ITS.  to  lat.  4°  N. 
— he  has  been  compelled  to  come  to  the  conclusion  that 
it  can  be  no  other  river  than  the  Nile.  He  had  thought 
it  was  the  Congo  ;  but  has  discovered  the  sources  of  the 
Congo  to  be  the  Kassai  and  the  Kwango,  two  rivers 
which  rise  on  the  western  side  of  the  Nile  watershed, 
in  about  the  latitude  of  Bangweolo ;  and  he  was  told  of 
another  river,  called  the  Lubilash,  which  rose  from 
the  north,  and  ran  west.  But  the  Lualaba,  the  Doctor 
tl links,  cannot  be  the  Congo,  from  its  great  size  and 
body,  and  from  its  steady  and  continued  flow  north- 
ward through  a  broad  and  extensive  valley,  bounded 
by  enormous  mountains  westerly  and  easterly.  The 
altitude  of  the  most  northerly  point  to  which  the  Doctor 
traced  the  wonderful  river  was  a  little  in  excess  of 
2,000  feet ;  so  that,  though  Baker  makes  out  his  lake 
to  be  2,700  feet  above  the  sea.  yet  the  Bahr  Ghazal, 
through  which  Petherick's  branch  of  the  White  Nile 
issues  into  the  Nile,  is  but  2,000  feet ;  in  which  case 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


453 


there  is  a  possibility  that  the  Lualaba  may  be  none  other 
than  Petherick's  branch. 

It  is  well  known  that  trading  stations  for  ivory  have 
been  established  for  about  500  miles  up  Petherick's 
branch.  We  must  remember  this  fact  when  told  that 
Gondokoro,  in  lat.  4°  N.,  is  2,000  feet  above  the  sea, 
and  lat.  4°  S.,  where  the  halt  was  made,  is  only  a  little 
over  2,000  feet  above  the  sea.  That  the  two  rivers 
said  to  be  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  separated  from  each 
other  by  8°  of  latitude,  are  one  and  the  same  river, 
may  among  some  men  be  regarded  as  a  startling  state- 
ment. But  we  must  restrain  mere  expressions  of 
surprise,  and  take  into  consideration  that  this  mighty 
and  broad  Lualaba  is  a  lacustrine  river  broader  than 
the  Mississippi  ;  that  at  intervals  the  body  of  w^ater 
forms  extensive  lakes  ;  then,  contracting  into  a  broad 
river,  it  again  forms  a  lake,  and  so  on,  to  lat.  4°  ; 
and  even  beyond  this  point  the  Doctor  hears  of  a  large 
lake  again  north. 

We  must  wait  also  until  the  altitudes  of  the  two 
rivers,  the  Lualaba,  where  the  Doctor  halted,  and  the 
southern  point  on  the  Bahr  Ghazal,  where  Petherick 
has  been,  are  known  with  perfect  accuracy. 

Now,  for  the  sake  of  argument,  suppose  we  give  this 
nameless  lake  a  length  of  6°  of  latitude,  as  it  may 
be  the  one  discovered  by  Piaggia,  the  Italian  traveller, 
from  which  Petherick's  branch  of  the  White  Nile 
issues  out  through  reedy  marshes,  into  the  Bahr  Ghazal. 
thence  into  the  White  Nile,  south  of  Gondokoro.  By 
this  method  we  can  suppose  the  rivers  one ;  for  if 
the  lake  extends  over  so  many  degrees  of  latitude, 
the  necessity  of  explaining  the  differences  of  altitude 
that  must  naturally  exist  between  two  points  of  a 
river  8°  of  latitude  apart,  would  be  obviated. 


454 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Also,  Livingstone's  instruments  for  observation  and 
taking  altitudes  may  have  been  in  error  ;  and  this  is 
very  likely  to  have  been  the  case,  subjected  as  they 
have  been  to  rough  handling  during  nearly  six  years 
of  travel.  Despite  the  apparent  difficulty  of  the  alti- 
tude, there  is  another  strong  reason  for  believing 
Webb's  River,  or  the  Lualaba,  to  be  the  Nile.  The 
watershed  of  this  river,  600  miles  of  which  Livingstone 
has  travelled,  is  drained  from  a  valley  which  lies  north 
and  south  between  lofty  eastern  and  western  ranges. 

This  valley,  or  line  of  drainage,  while  it  does  not 
receive  the  Kassai  and  the  Kwango,  receives  rivers 
flowing  from  a  great  distance  west,  for  instance,  the 
important  tributaries  Lufira  and  Lomami,  and  large 
rivers  from  the  east,  such  as  the  Lindi  and  Luamo  ; 
and,  while  the  most  intelligent  Portuguese  travellers 
and  traders  state  that  the  Kassai,  the  Kwango,  and 
Lubilash,  are  the  head  waters  of  the  Congo  River,  no 
one  has  yet  started  the  supposition  that  the  grand 
river  flowing  north,  and  known  by  the  natives  as  the 
Lualaba,  was  the  Congo. 

This  river  may  be  the  Congo,  or,  perhaps,  the  Niger. 
If  the  Lualaba  is  only  2,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and 
the  Albert  N'Yanza  2,700  feet,  the  Lualaba  cannot 
enter  that  lake.  If  the  Bahr  Ghazal  does  not  extend 
by  an  arm  for  eight  degrees  above  Gondokoro,  then 
the  Lualaba  cannot  be  the  Nile.  But  it  would  be 
premature  to  dogmatize  on  the  subject.  Livingstone 
will  clear  up  the  point  himself;  and,  if  he  finds  it  to 
be  the  Congo,  will  be  the  first  to  admit  his  error. 

Livingstone  admits  the  Nile  sources  have  not  been 
found,  though  he  has  traced  the  Lualaba  through 
seven  degrees  of  latitude  flowing  north ;  and,  though 
he  has  not  a  particle  of  doubt  of  its  being  the  Nile, 


.Nov.  1871.1     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


455 


not  yet  can  the  Nile  question  be  said  to  be  resolved 
and  ended.    For  two  reasons  : 

1.  He  has  heard  of  the  existence  of  four  fountains, 
two  of  which  give  birth  to  a  river  flowing  north,  Webb's 
River,  or  the  Lualaba,  and  to  a  river  flowing  south, 
which  is  the  Zambezi.  He  has  repeatedly  heard  of  these 
fountains  from  the  natives.  Several  times  he  has 
been  within  100  and  200  miles  from  them,  but  some- 
thing always  interposed  to  prevent  his  going  to  see 
them.  According  to  those  who  have  seen  them,  they 
rise  on  either  side  of  a  mound  or  level,  which  contains 
no  stones.  Some  have  called  it  an  ant-hill.  One 
of  these  fountains  is  said  to  be  so  large  that  a  man, 
standing  on  one  side,  cannot  be  seen  from  the  other. 
These  fountains  must  be  discovered,  and  their  position 
taken.  The  Doctor  does  not  suppose  them  to  be  south 
of  the  feeders  of  Lake  Bangweolo.  In  his  letter  to  the 
4  Herald '  he  says  :  "  These  four  full-grown  gushing 
fountains,  rising  so  near  each  other,  and  giving  origin 
to  four  large  rivers,  answer  in  a  certain  degree  to  the 
description  given  of  the  unfathomable  fountains  of  the 
Nile,  by  the  secretary  of  Minerva,  in  the  city  of  Sais, 
in  Egypt,  to  the  father  of  all  travellers — Herodotus." 

For  the  information  of  such  readers  as  may  not  have 
the  original  at  hand  I  append  the  following  from  Cary's 
translation  of  Herodotus  : — 

With  respect  to  the  sources  of  the  Nile,  no  man  of  all  the 
Egyptians,  Libyans,  or  Grecians,  with  whom  I  have  conversed,  ever 
pretended  to  know  anything,  except  the  registrar  of  Minerva's  treasury 
at  Sais,  in  Egypt.  He,  indeed,  seemed  to  be  trifling  with  me  when  he 
said  he  knew  perfectly  well ;  yet  his  account  was  as  follows :  "  That 
there  are  two  mountains,  rising  into  a  sharp  peak,  situated  between 
the  city  o£  Syene,  in  Thebais,  and  Elephantine.  The  names  of  these 
mountains  are,  the  one  Crophi,  the  other  Mophi ;  that  the  sources  of 
the  Nile,  which  are  bottomless,  flow  from  between  these  mountains ; 


*66 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and  that  half  of  the  water  flows  over  Egypt  and  to  the  north,  the  other 
half  over  Ethiopia  and  the  south.  That  the  fountains  of  the  Nile  are 
bottomless,  he  said,  Psammitichus,  King  of  Egypt,  proved  by  experi- 
ment :  for,  having  caused  a  line  to  be  twisted  many  thousand  fathoms  in 
length,  he  let  it  down,  but  could  not  find  a  bottom."  Such,  then,  was  the 
opinion  the  registrar  gave,  if,  indeed,  he  spoke  the  real  truth ;  proving, 
in  my  opinion,  that  there  are  strong  whirlpools  and  an  eddy  here,  so  that 
the  water  beating  against  the  rocks,  a  sounding-line,  when  let  down, 
cannot  reach  the  bottom.  I  was  unable  to  learn  anything  more  from 
any  one  else.  But  thus  much  I  learnt  by  carrying  my  researches  as 
far  as  possible,  having  gone  and  made  my  own  observations  as  far  as 
Elephantine,  and  beyond  that  obtaining  information  from  hearsay. 
As  one  ascends  the  river,  above  the  city  of  Elephantine,  the  country  is 
steep ;  here,  therefore,  it  is  necessary  to  attach  a  rope  on  both  sides  of 
a  boat,  as  one  does  with  an  ox  in  a  plough,  and  so  proceed  ;  but  if  the 
rope  should  happen  to  break,  the  boat  is  carried  away  by  the  force  of 
the  stream.  This  kind  of  country  lasts  for  a  four-days'  passage,  and 
the  Nile  here  winds  as  much  as  the  Maeander.  There  are  twelve 
schceni,  which  it  is  necessary  to  sail  through  in  this  manner ;  and  after 
that  you  will  come  to  a  level  plain,  where  the  Nile  flows  round  an 
island ;  its  name  is  Tachompso.  Ethiopians  inhabit  the  country 
immediately  above  Elephantine,  and  one  half  of  the  island ;  the  other 
half  is  inhabited  by  Egyptians.  Near  to  this  island  lies  a  vast  lake, 
on  the  borders  of  which  Ethiopian  nomades  dwell.  After  sailing 
through  this  lake  you  will  come  to  the  channel  of  the  Nile,  which  flows 
into  it :  then  you  will  have  to  land  and  travel  forty  days  by  the  side  of 
the  river,  for  sharp  rocks  rise  in  the  Nile,  and  there  are  many  sunken 
ones,  through  which  it  is  not  possible  to  navigate  a  boat.  Having 
passed  this  country  in  the  forty  days,  you  must  go  on  board  another 
boat,  and  sail  for  twelve  days  ;  and  then  you  wTill  arrive  at  a  large  city, 
called  Meroe :  this  city  is  said  to  be  the  capital  of  all  Ethiojna.  The 
inhabitants  worship  no  other  gods  than  Jupiter  and  Bacchus  ;  but  these 
they  honour  with  great  magnificence.  They  have  also  an  oracle  of 
Jupiter ;  and  they  make  war  whenever  that  god  bids  them  by  an  oracular 
warning,  and  against  whatever  country  he  bids  them.  Sailing  from 
this  city,  you  will  arrive  at  the  country  of  the  Automoli,  in  a  space  of 
time  equal  to  that  which  you  took  in  coming  from  Elephantine  to  the 
capital  of  the  Ethiopians.  These  Automoli  are  called  by  the  name  of 
Asmak,  which,  in  the  language  of  Greece,  signifies  "  those  that  stand 
at  the  left  hand  of  the  king."  These,  to  the  number  of  two  hundred 
and  forty  thousand  of  the  Egyptian  war-tribe,  revolted  to  the  Ethio- 
pians on  the  following  occasion.  In  the  reign  of  King  Psammitichus 
garrisons  were  stationed  at  Elephantine  against  the  Ethiopians,  and 


,  Nov.  1871  J     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


457 


another  at  the  Pelusian  Daphnse  against  the  Arabians  and  Syrians, 
and  another  -at  Marea  against  Libya ;  and  even  in  my  time  garrisons 
of  the  Persians  are  stationed  in  the  same  places  as  they  were  in  the 
time  of  Psammitichus,  for  they  maintain  guards  at  Elephantine  and 
Daphnse.  Now,  these  Egyptians,  after  they  had  been  on  duty  three 
years,  were  not  relieved ;  therefore,  having  consulted  together  and 
come  to  an  unanimous  resolution,  they  all  revolted  from  Psammitichus, 
and  went  to  Ethiopia.  Psammitichus,  hearing  of  this,  pursued  them ; 
and  when  he  overtook  them  he  entreated  them  by  many  arguments, 
and  adjured  them  not  to  forsake  the  gods  of  their  fathers,  and  their 
children  and  wives.  But  one  of  them  is  reported  to  have  uncovered 
his  private  parts,  and  to  have  said,  "  that  wheresoever  these  were, 
there  they  should  find  both  children  and  wives."  These  men,  when 
they  arrived  in  Ethiopia,  offered  their  services  to  the  king  of  the 
Ethiopians,  who  made  them  the  following  recompence.  There  were 
certain  Ethiopians  disaffected  towards  him ;  these  he  bade  them  expel, 
and  take  possession  of  their  land.  By  the  settlement  of  these  men 
among  the  Ethiopians,  the  Ethiopians  became  more  civilized,  and 
learned  the  manners  of  the  Egyptians. 

Now,  for  a  voyage  and  land  journey  of  four  months,  the  Nile  is 
known,  in  addition  to  the  part  of  the  stream  that  is  in  Egypt ;  for, 
upon  computation,  so  many  months  are  known  to  be  spent  by  a  person 
who  travels  from  Elephantine  to  the  Automoli.  This  river  flows  from 
the  west  and  the  setting  of  the  sun ;  but  beyond  this  no  one  is  able 
to  speak  with  certainty,  for  the  rest  of  the  country  is  desert  by  reason 
of  the  excessive  heat.  But  I  have  heard  the  following  account  from 
certain  Cyrenseans,  who  say  that  they  went  to  the  oracle  of  Ammon, 
and  had  a  conversation  with  Etearchus,  King  of  the  Ammonians,  and 
that,  among  other  subjects,  they  happened  to  discourse  about  the  Nile 
— that  nobody  knew  its  sources ;  whereupon  Etearchus  said  that 
certain  Nasamonians  once  came  to  him — this  nation  is  Lybian,  and 
inhabits  the  Syrtis,  and  the  country  for  no  great  distance  eastward  of 
the  Syrtis — and  that  when  these  Nasamonians  arrived,  and  were  asked 
if  they  could  give  any  further  information  touching  the  deserts  of 
Libya,  they  answered,  that  there  were  some  daring  youths  amongst 
them,  sons  of  powerful  men ;  and  that  they,  having  reached  man's 
estate,  formed  many  other  extravagant  plans,  and,  moreover,  chose  five 
of  their  number  by  lot  to  explore  the  deserts  of  Libya,  to  see  if  they 
could  make  any  further  discovery  than  those  who  had  penetrated  the 
farthest.  (For,  as  respects  the  parts  of  Libya  along  the  Northern 
Sea,  beginning  from  Egypt  to  the  promontory  of  Solois,  where  is  the 
extremity  of  Libya,  Libyans  and  various  nations  of  Libyans  reach 
all  along  it,  except  those  parts  which  are  occupied  by  Grecians  and 


458 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Phoenicians  ;  but  as  respects  the  parts  above  the  sea,  and  those  nations 
which  reach  down  to  the  sea,  in  the  upper  parts  Libya  is  infested  by 
wild  beasts ;  and  all  beyond  that  is  sand,  dreadfully  short  of  water, 
and  utterly  desolate.)  They  further  related,  "that  when  the  young 
men  deputed  by  their  companions  set  out,  well  furnished  with  water 
and  provisions,  they  passed  first  through  the  inhabited  country  ;  and 
having  traversed  this,  they  came  to  the  region  infested  by  wild 
beasts ;  and  after  this  they  crossed  the  desert,  making  their  way 
towards  the  west ;  and  when  they  had  traversed  much  sandy  ground, 
during  a  journey  of  many  days,  they  at  length  saw  some  trees 
growing  in  a  plain  ;  and  that  they  approached  and  began  to  gather 
the  fruit  that  grew  on  the  trees ;  and  while  they  were  gathering,  some 
diminutive  men,  less  than  men  of  middle  stature,  came  up,  and  having 
seized  them  carried  them  away;  and  that  the  Nasamonians  did  not  at 
all  understand  their  language,  nor  those  who  carried  them  off  the 
language  of  the  Nasamonians.  However,  they  conducted  them  through 
vast  morasses,  and  when  they  had  passed  these,  they  came  to  a  city, 
in  which  all  the  inhabitants  were  of  the  same  size  as  their  conductors, 
and  black  in  color :  and  by  the  city  flowed  a  great  river,  running  from 
the  west  to  the  east,  and  that  crocodiles  were  seen  in  it."  Thus  far  I 
have  set  forth  the  account  of  Etearchus  the  Ammonian ;  to  which  may 
be  added,  as  the  Cyrenseans  assured  me,  "  that  he  said  the  Nasamonians 
all  returned  safe  to  their  own  country,  and  that  the  men  whom  they 
came  to  were  all  necromancers."  Etearchus  also  conjectured  that  this 
river,  which  flows  by  their  city,  is  the  Nile ;  and  reason  so  evinces : 
for  the  Nile  flows  from  Libya,  and  intersects  it  in  the  middle ;  and 
(as  I  conjecture,  inferring  things  unknown  from  things  known)  it 
sets  out  from  a  point  corresponding  with  the  Ister.  For  the  Ister, 
beginning  from  the  Celts,  and  the  city  of  Pyrene,  divides  Europe  in  its 
course ;  but  the  Celts  are  beyond  the  pillars  of  Hercules,  and  border 
on  the  territories  of  the  Cynesians,  who  lie  in  the  extremity  of  Europe 
to  the  westward ;  and  the  Ister  terminates  by  flowing  through  all 
Europe  into  the  Euxine  Sea,  where  a  Milesian  colony  is  settled  in 
Istria.  Now  the  Ister.  as  it  flows  through  a  well-peopled  country,  is 
generally  known ;  but  no  one  is  able  to  speak  about  the  sources  of 
the  Nile,  because  Libya,  through  which  it  flows,  is  uninhabited  and 
desolate.  Respecting  this  stream,  therefore,  as  far  as  I  was  able  to 
reach  by  inquiry,  I  have  already  spoken.  !t  however  discharges 
itself  into  Egypt ;  and  Egypt  lies,  as  near  as  may  be,  opposite  to  the 
mountains  of  Cilicia  ;  from  whence  to  Sinope,  on  the  Euxine  Sea,  is  a 
five  days'  journey  in  a  straight  line  to  an  active  man ;  and  Sinope  is 
opposite  to  the  Ister,  where  it  discharges  itself  into  the  sea.  So  I 
think  that  the  Nile,  traversing  the  whole  of  Libya,  may  be  properly 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCO URSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


459 


compared  with  the  Ister.  Such,  then,  is  the  account  that  I  am  able  to 
give  respecting  the  Nile. 

2.  Webb's  River  must  be  traced  to  its  connection 
with  some  portion  of  the  old  Nile. 

When  these  two  things  have  been  accomplished, 
then,  and  not  till  then,  can  the  mystery  of  the  Nile  be 
explained.  The  two  countries  through  which  the 
marvellous  lacustrine  river,  the  Lualaba,  flows,  with  its 
manifold  lakes  and  broad  expanse  of  water,  are  Eua 
(the  Uruwwa  of  Speke)  and  Manyuema.  For  the  first 
time  Europe  is  made  aware  that  between  the  Tangan- 
ika  and  the  known  sources  of  the  Congo  there  exist 
teeming  millions  of  the  negro  race,  who  never  saw,  or 
heard  of,  the  white  people  who  make  such  a  noisy  and 
busy  stir  outside  of  Africa.  Upon  the  minds  of  those 
who  had  the  good  fortune  to  see  the  first  specimen  of 
these  remarkable  white  races  in  Dr.  Livingstone,  he 
seems  to  have  made  a  favourable  impression,  though, 
through  misunderstanding  his  object,  and  coupling  him 
with  the  Arabs,  who  make  horrible  work  there,  his  life 
was  sought  more  than  once.  These  two  extensive  coun- 
tries, Rua  and  Manyuema,  are  populated  by  true  heathens, 
governed,  not  as  the  sovereignties  of  Karagwah,  Urundi, 
and  Uganda,  by  despotic  kings,  but  each  village  by  its 
own  sultan  or  lord.  Thirty  miles  outside  of  their  own 
immediate  settlements,  the  most  intelligent  of  these 
small  chiefs  seem  to  know  nothing.  Thirty  miles  from 
the  Lualaba,  there  were  but  few  people  who  had  ever 
heard  of  the  great  river.  Such  ignorance  among  the 
natives  of  their  own  countries  naturally  increased  the 
labours  of  Livingstone,  Compared  with  these,  all 
tribes  and  nations  in  Africa  with  whom  Livingstone 
came  in  contact  may  be  deemed  civilized,  yet,  in  the 


460 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


arts  of  home  manufacture,  these  wild  people  of  Ma- 
nyuema  were  far  superior  to  any  he  had  seen.  Where 
other  tribes  and  nations  contented  themselves  with 
hides  and  skins  of  animals  thrown  negligently  over 
their  shoulders,  the  people  of  Manyuema  manufactured  a 
cloth  from  fine  grass,  which  may  favourably  compare 
with  the  finest  grass  cloth  of  India.  They  also  know 
the  art  of  dyeing  them  in  various  colours — black, 
yellow,  and  purple.  The  Wangwana,  or  freed-men 
of  Zanzibar,  struck  with  the  beauty  of  the  fabric, 
eagerly  exchange  their  cotton  cloths  for  fine  grass 
cloth ;  and  on  almost  every  black  man  from  Manyuema 
I  have  seen  this  native  cloth  converted  into  elegantly 
made  d amirs  (Arabic) — short  jackets.  These  countries 
are  also  very  rich  in  ivory.  The  fever  for  going  to 
Manyuema  to  exchange  tawdry  beads  for  its  precious 
tusks,  is  of  the  same  kind  as  that  which  impelled 
men  to  the  gulches  and  placers  of  California,  Colorado, 
Montana,  and  Idaho ;  after  nuggets  to  Australia,  and 
diamonds  to  Cape  Colony.  Manyuema  is  at  present 
the  El  Dorado  of  the  Arabs  and  the  Wamrima  tribes. 
It  is  only  about  four  years  since  that  the  first  Arab 
returned  from  Manyuema,  with  such  wealth  of  ivory, 
and  reports  about  the  fabulous  quantities  found  there, 
that  ever  since  the  old  beaten  tracks  of  Karagwah, 
Uganda,  Ufipa,  and  Marungu,  have  been  comparatively 
deserted.  The  people  of  Manyuema,  ignorant  of  the 
value  of  the  precious  article,  reared  their  huts  upon 
ivory  stanchions.  Ivory  pillars  were  common  sights 
in  Manyuema,  and,  hearing  of  these,  one  can  no 
longer  wonder  at  the  ivory  palace  of  Solomon.  For 
generations  they  have  used  ivory  tusks  as  door-posts 
and  supports  to  the  eaves,  until  they  had  become 
perfectly  rotten  and  worthless.     But  the  advent  of 


tfov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE. 


461 


the  Arabs  soon  taught  them  the  value  of  the  article. 
It  has  now  risen  considerably  in  price,  though  still 
fabulously  cheap.  At  Zanzibar,  the  value  of  ivory  per 
frasilah  of  35  lbs.  weight  is  from  $50  to  $60,  according 
to  its  quality.  In  Unyanyembe  it  is  about  $1*10  per 
pound,  but  in  Manyuema  it  may  be  purchased  for  from 
half  a  cent  to  1*  cent's  worth  of  copper  per  pound  of 
ivory.  The  Arabs,  however,  have  the  knack  of  spoiling 
markets  by  their  rapacity  and  cruelty.  With  muskets, 
a  small  party  of  Arabs  is  invincible  against  such 
people  as  those  of  Manyuema,  who,  until  lately,  never 
heard  the  sound  of  a  gun.  The  discharge  of  a  musket 
u  spires  mortal  terror  in  them,  and  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  induce  them  to  face  the  muzzle  of  a  gun. 
They  believe  that  the  Arabs  have  stolen  the  lightning, 
and  that  against  such  people  the  bow  and  arrow  can 
have  little  effect.  They  are  by  no  means  devoid  of 
courage,  and  they  have  often  declared  that,  were  it  not 
for  the  guns,  not  one  Arab  would  leave  the  country 
alive  ;  this  tends  to  prove  that  they  would  willingly 
engage  in  fight  with  the  strangers  who  have  made 
themselves  so  detestable,  were  it  not  that  the  startling 
explosion  of  gunpowder  inspires  them  with  terror. 

Into  what  country  soever  the  Arabs  enter,  they  con- 
trive to  render  their  name  and  race  abominated.  But 
the  mainspring  of  it  all  is  not  the  Arab's  nature,  color, 
or  name,  but  simply  the  slave-trade.  So  long  as  the 
slave  trade  is  permitted  to  be  kept  up  at  Zanzibar,  so 
long  will  these  otherwise  enterprising  people,  the 
Arabs,  kindle  against  them  the  hatred  of  the  natives 
throughout  Africa. 

On  the  main  line  of  travel  from  Zanzibar  into  the 
interior  of  Africa  these  acts  of  cruelty  are  unknown, 
for  the  very  good  reason  that  the   natives  having 


±62 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


been  armed  with  guns,  and  taught  how  to  use  those 
weapons,  are  by  no  means  loth  to  do  so  whenever 
an  opportunity  presents  itself.  When,  too  late,  they 
have  perceived  their  folly  in  selling  guns  to  the 
natives,  the  Arabs  now  begin  to  vow  vengeance  on 
the  person  who  will  in  future  sell  a  gun  to  a  native. 
But  they  are  all  guilty  of  the  same  mistake,  and  it 
is  strange  they  did  not  perceive  that  it  was  folly 
when  they  were  doing  so.  In  former  days  the  Arab, 
when  protected  by  his  slave  escort,  armed  with 
guns,  could  travel  through  Useguhha,  Urori,  Ukonongo, 
Ufipa,  Karagwab,  Unyoro,  and  Uganda,  with  only  a 
stick  in  his  hand  ;  now,  however,  it  is  impossible  for 
him  or  any  one  else  to  do  so.  Every  step  he  takes, 
armed  or  unarmed,  is  fraught  with  danger.  The 
Waseguhha,  near  the  coast,  detain  him,  and  demand 
the  tribute,  or  give  him  the  option  of  war  ;  entering 
Ugogo,  he  is  subjected  every  day  to  the  same  oppres- 
sive demand,  or  to  the  fearful  alternative.  The  Wa- 
nyamwezi  also  show  their  readiness  to  take  the 
same  advantage  ;  the  road  to  Karagwah  is  besieged 
with  difficulties;  the  terrible  Mirambo  stands  in  the 
way,  defeats  their  combined  forces  with  ease,  and  makes 
raids  even  to  the  doors  of  their  houses  in  Unyanyembe  ; 
and  should  they  succeed  in  passing  Mirambo,  a  chief — 
Swaruru — stands  before  them  who  demands  tribute  by 
the  bale,  and  against  whom  it  is  useless  to  contend. 
These  remarks  have  reference  to  the  slave-trade  inaugu- 
rated in  Manyuema  by  the  Arabs.  Harassed  on  the 
road  between  Zanzibar  and  Unyanyembe  by  minatory 
natives,  who  with  bloody  hands  are  ready  to  avenge 
the  slightest  affront,  the  Arabs  have  refrained  from 
kidnapping  between  the  Tanganika  and  the  sea;  but 
in  Manyuema,  where  the  natives  are  timid,  irresolute. 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  463 

and  divided  into  small  weak  tribes,  they  recover  their 
audacity,  and  exercise  their  kidnapping  propensities 
unchecked.  The  accounts  which  the  Doctor  brings 
from  that  new  region  are  most  deplorable.  He  was 
an  unwilling  spectator  of  a  horrible  deed — a  massacre 
committed  on  the  inhabitants  of  a  populous  district  who 
had  assembled  in  the  market-place  on  the  banks  of  the 
Lualaba,  as  they  had  been  accustomed  to  do  for  ages. 
It  seems  that  the  Wamanyuema  are  very  fond  of  mar- 
keting, believing  it  to  be  the  summum  bonum  of  human 
enjoyment.  They  find  endless  pleasure  in  chaffer- 
ing with  might  and  main  for  the  least  mite  of  their 
currency — the  last  bead  ;  and  when  they  gain  the  point 
to  which  their  peculiar  talents  are  devoted,  they  feel  in- 
tensely happy.  The  women  are  excessively  fond  of  this 
marketing,  and,  as  they  are  very  beautiful,  the  market- 
place must  possess  considerable  attractions  for  the  male 
sex.  It  was  on  such  a  day,  amidst  such  a  scene,  that 
Tagamoyo,  a  half-caste  Arab,  with  his  armed  slave 
escort,  commenced  an  indiscriminate  massacre  by  firing 
volley  after  volley  into  the  dense  mass  of  human  beings. 
It  is  supposed  that  there  were  about  2,000  present,  and 
at  the  first  sound  of  the  firing  these  poor  people  all 
made  a  rush  for  their  canoes.  In  the  fearful  hurry  to 
avoid  being  shot,  the  canoes  were  paddled  away  by  the 
first  fortunate  few  who  got  possession  of  them  ;  those 
that  were  not  so  fortunate  sprang  into  the  deep  waters 
of  the  Lualaba,  and  though  many  of  them  became  an 
easy  prey  to  the  voracious  crocodiles  which  swarmed  to 
the  scene,  the  majority  received  their  deaths  from  the 
bullets  of  the  merciless  Tagamoyo  and  his  villanous 
band.  The  Doctor  believes,  as  do  the  Arabs  them- 
selves, that  about  400  people,  mostly  women  and 
children,  lost  their  lives,  while  many  more  were  made 


464 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


slaves.  This  outrage  is  only  one  of  many  such  he  has 
unwillingly  witnessed,  and  he  is  utterly  unable  to 
describe  the  feelings  of  loathing  he  feels  for  the  inhu- 
man perpetrators.  Slaves  from  Manyuema  command  a 
higher  price  than  those  of  any  other  country,  because 
of  their  fine  forms  and  general  docility.  The  women, 
the  Doctor  said  repeatedly,  are  remarkably  pretty  crea- 
tures, and  have  nothing,  except  the  hair,  in  common 
with  the  negroes  of  the  West  Coast.  They  are  of  very 
light  color,  have  fine  noses,  well-cut  and  not  over-full 
lips,  while  the  prognathous  jaw  is  uncommon.  These 
women  are  eagerly  sought  after  as  wives  by  the  half- 
castes  of  the  East  Coast,  and  even  the  pure  Omani 
Arabs  do  not  disdain  to  take  them  in  marriage.  To 
the  north  of  Manyuema,  Livingstone  came  to  a  light- 
complexioned  race,  of  the  color  of  Portuguese,  or  our 
own  Louisiana  quadroons,  who  are  very  fine  people, 
and  singularly  remarkable  for  commercial  "  'cuteness  " 
and  sagacity.  The  women  are  expert  divers  for  oysters, 
which  are  found  in  great  abundance  in  the  Lualaba. 

Eua,  at  a  place  called  Katanga,  is  rich  in  copper.  The 
copper-mines  of  this  place  have  been  worked  for  ages. 
In  the  bed  of  a  stream,  gold  has  been  found,  washed 
down  in  pencil-shaped  pieces  or  in  particles  as  large  as 
split  peas.  Two  Arabs  have  gone  thither  to  prospect 
for  this  metal ;  but,  as  they  are  ignorant  of  the  art  of 
gulch-mining,  it  is  scarcely  possible  that  they  will 
succeed.  From  these  highly-important  and  interesting 
discoveries,  Dr.  Livingstone  was  turned  back,  when 
almost  on  the  threshold  of  success,  by  the  positive 
refusal  of  his  men  to  accompany  him  further.  They 
were  afraid  to  go  on  unless  accompanied  by  a  large  force 
of  men ;  and,  as  these  were  not  procurable  in  Manyuema, 
the  Doctor  reluctantly  turned  his  face  towards  Ujiji. 


Nov.  1871.]     INTER  CO  UBSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  465 


It  was  a  long  and  weary  road  back.  The  journey 
had  now  no  interest  for  him.  He  had  travelled  the  road 
before  when  going  westward,  full  of  high  hopes  and 
aspirations,  impatient  to  reach  the  goal  which  promised 
him  rest  from  his  labors — now,  returning  unsuccessful, 
baffled,  and  thwarted,  when  almost  in  sight  of  the  end, 
and  having  to  travel  the  same  path  back  on  foot,  with 
disappointed  expectations  and  defeated  hopes  preying 
on  his  mind,  no  wonder  that  the  old  brave  spirit 
almost  succumbed,  and  the  strong  constitution  almost 
went  to  wreck. 

Livingstone  arrived  at  Ujiji,  October  16th,  almost  at 
death's  door.  On  the  way  he  had  been  trying  to  cheer 
himself  up,  since  he  had  found  it  impossible  to  contend 
against  the  obstinacy  of  his  men,  with,  "  It  won't  take 
long ;  five  or  six  months  more ;  it  matters  not  since  it 
cannot  be  helped.  I  have  got  my  goods  in  Ujiji,  and 
can  hire  other  people,  and  make  a  new  start  again." 
These  are  the  words  and  hopes  by  which  he  tried  to 
delude  himself  into  the  idea  that  all  would  be  right  yet ; 
but  imagine  the  shock  he  must  have  suffered,  when  he 
found  that  the  man  to  whom  was  entrusted  his  goods 
for  safe  keeping  had  sold  every  bale  for  ivory. 

The  evening  of  the  day  Livingstone  had  returned  to 
Ujiji,  Susi  and  Chuma,  two  of  his  most  faithful  men, 
were  seen  crying  bitterly.  The  Doctor  asked  of  them 
what  ailed  them,  and  was  then  informed,  for  the  first 
time,  of  the  evil  tidings  that  awaited  him. 

Said  they,  "  All  our  things  are  sold,  sir ;  Sherif  has 
sold  everything  for  ivory." 

Later  in  the  evening,  Sherif  came  to  see  him,  and 
shamelessly  offered  his  hand,  but  Livingstone  repulsed 
him,  saying  he  could  not  shake  hands  with  a  thief.  As 
an  excuse,  Sherif  said  he  had  divined  on  the  Koran, 

2  H 


466 


SOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and  that  this  had  told  him  the  Hakim  (Arabic  fox 
Doctor)  was  dead. 

Livingstone  was  now  destitute  ;  he  had  just  enough 
to  keep  him  and  his  men  alive  for  about  a  month,  when 
he  would  be  forced  to  beg  from  the  Arabs. 

The  Doctor  further  stated,  that  when  Speke  gives 
the  altitude  of  the  Tanganika  at  only  1,800  feet  above 
the  sea,  Speke  must  have  fallen  into  that  error  by  a 
frequent  writing  of  the  Anno  Domini,  a  mere  slip  of 
the  pen ;  for  the  altitude,  as  he  makes  it  out,  is  2,800 
feet  by  boiling  point,  and  a  little  over  3,000  feet  by 
barometer. 

The  Doctor's  complaints  were  many  because  slaves 
were  sent  to  him,  in  charge  of  goods,  after  he  had  so  often 
implored  the  people  at  Zanzibar  to  send  him  freemen. 
A  very  little  effort  on  the  part  of  those  entrusted  with  the 
despatch  of  supplies  to  him  might  have  enabled  them 
to  procure  good  and  faithful  freemen ;  but  if  they 
contented  themselves,  upon  the  receipt  of  a  letter  from 
Dr.  Livingstone,  with  sending  to  Ludha  Damji  for 
men,  it  is  no  longer  a  matter  of  wonder  that  dishonest 
and  incapable  slaves  were  sent  forward.  It  is  no  new 
fact  that  the  Doctor  has  discovered  when  he  states  that 
a  negro  freeman  is  a  hundred  times  more  capable  and 
trustworthy  than  a  slave.  Centuries  ago  Eumasus,  tho 
herdsman,  said  to  Ulysses — 

M  Jove  fixed  it  certain,  that  whatever  day 
Makes  man  a  slave,  takes  half  his  worth  away." 

Dr.  Livingstone  states  that  he  has  repeatedly  enjoined 
on  Dr.  Kirk  not  to  send  him  slaves.  None  knew  better 
how  trustless  they  were ;  and  one  can  conceive — each 
time  he  was  thwarted  and  baffled  by  these  incapables — 
how  hopeless  his  mission  would  seem  to  him.    It  must 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  467 

be  for  ever  a  matter  of  regret  to  the  friends  of  both 
gentlemen  that  Dr.  Livingstone's  entreaties  on  this 
subject  were  not  better  understood. 

There  is  one  point,  also,  on  which  I  wish  to  make 
some  observations,  and  that  is,  on  the  ' 1 doctoring"  of 
Livingstone's  despatches.  If  a  traveller  in  Central 
Africa  discovers  anything,  whether  it  be  a  lake,  moun- 
tain, plain,  or  river,  and  arrives  at  some  conclusions 
respecting  his  discovery,  his  reasons,  above  all  others, 
should  have  greatest  weight.  Often  the  reasons  are 
manifold — too  many,  at  least,  to  be  written  in  a  despatch 
— and  he  is  compelled,  for  lack  of  space,  to  withhold  them, 
until  such  time  as  he  can  embody  them  in  a  book.  In 
such  a  case,  it  must  be  obvious  to  all,  that  easy-chair 
geographers,  in  the  absence  of  accurate  data,  cannot 
improve  upon  the  despatch  of  the  original  discoverer 
and  explorer ;  and  no  opinions,  advanced  with  the  view 
of  disproving  the  fact,  should  justify  readers  in  attaching 
weight  or  importance  to  them. 

Livingstone  has  refrained  from  communicating  with 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society  as  a  body  ;  but  he  wrote 
to  his  friend,  Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  and,  whatever 
was  contained  in  the  lengthy  letters,  the  President  of 
the  Society  would  be  justified  in  laying  them — as  he 
was  expected  to  do — before  the  august  scientific  body  of 
which  he  was  chief.  But,  as  Livingstone  has  related 
to  me,  and  as  he  has  written  to  other  friends,  the  reason 
that  he  has  refrained  from  giving  detailed  disclosures  is 
his  fear  that  his  despatches  may  be  subjected  to  captious 
emendations,  to  suit  pet  theories — many  of  the  critics 
being  oblivious  of  the  fact  that  what  he  relates  he 


168 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


has  been  permitted  to  know  only  after  persevering 
exploration. 

It  is  a  lamentable  thing,  truly,  that  discoverers 
may  not  utter  what  they  know  to  be  indisputable 
truths,  without  being  supposed  to  belong  to  a  partisan 
clique  to  unsettle  the  pet  theories  of  geographers  at 
home,  or  without  being  accused  of  "distorting  well- 
known  facts."  If  the  "  learned  Mr.  Cooley  "  has  drawn 
from  the  hearsay  of  an  Arab  the  outlines  of  a  large 
lake  which  occupies  the  whole  of  Central  Africa,  em- 
bracing the  several  lakes  of  Nyassa,  Tanganika,  and 
the  N'Yanza,  why  should  he  not  admit  at  once  that  he 
is  in  error,  when  Livingstone,  Burton,  Speke,  Grant, 
Wakefield,  New,  Eoscher,  Vonderdecken,  and  Baker, 
prove  that  there  are  several  lakes,  far  and  wide  apart, 
bearing  different  names  ?  There  is  very  little  extra 
labor  in  sketching  six  lakes  more  than  there  is  in  the 
outlining  of  one  large  one.  And  the  testimony  of  such 
an  array  of  travellers,  surely,  ought  to  have  greater 
weight  than  that  of  one  Arab.  Yet  Mr.  Cooley  accuses 
me  of  deafness,  or  misapprehension,  when  I  state  that 
the  Lake  Tanganika  is  a  separate  body  of  water  by 
itself;  and  he  has  been  angry  with  Captain  Burton  ever 
since  his  discovery  of  that  lake.  With  all  his  erudition 
on  geographical  matters,  he  yet  lacks  the  moral  courage 
of  confessing  himself  in  error.  But  Mr.  Cooley  is  only  a 
type  of  a  small  body  of  geographers ;  this  Cooleyism 
— despite  large  experience,  erudition,  and  high  faculties 
— evidently  is  contagious ;  for  Mr.  F.  Galton,  with  a 
wonderful  suavity  of  manner,  and  an  elongated  smile, 
called  my  defence  of  the  explorer  "  a  sensational  story 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  469 

while  Dr.  Beke,  with  all  the  persistence  of  a  man  with 
a  hobby,  emphatically  declared  that  Livingstone  had 
not  discovered  the  sources  of  the  Nile.  This  emphatic 
declaration  of  a  hastily-formed  opinion  cannot,  surely, 
be  anything  but  deplorable  fatuity  on  the  part  of 
Dr.  Beke.  Neither  of  the  three  gentlemen  whose 
names  I  have  mentioned  are  entitled  to  more  credence 
than  the  great  explorer,  who  has  written  his  notes 
on  this  point  in  lat.  S.  4°  and  long.  E.  25°  in  Central 
Africa. 

Well,  Doctor  Livingstone,  despising  this  Cooleyism, 
which  means  obstinacy,  intolerance,  and  narrow-minded- 
ness, declares  he  will  keep  his  notes  to  himself ;  and 
indeed,  in  my  humble  opinion,  he  has  done  very  right. 
The  Geographical  Society  was  instituted  to  disseminate 
and  promote  the  knowledge  of  the  true  geography 
of  all  countries.  If  the  Society  were  leavened  with 
this  Cooleyism,  and  resolutely  closed  its  ears  against 
the  revelations  of  explorers,  how  could  it  ever  attain  the 
object  for  which  it  was  constituted  and  incorporated  ? 
Would  such  conduct  be  encouraging  to  explorers  ?  If 
the  members  allowed  themselves  to  be  swayed  by  petty 
jealousies,  pet  fancies,  crude  and  impossible  theories, 
would  men  go  and  expend  thousands  of  dollars  to  the 
enlightenment  of  the  world  respecting  the  mysterious 
interior  of  Africa  ? 

I  have  advanced  no  opinions  of  my  own  respecting 
anything  I  have  not  seen,  as  I  am  not  ambitious  of 
being  vilified  more  than  I  have  been  already.  I  am, 
unfortunately,  under  the  ban  of  the  displeasure  of  some 
geographers,  because,  unconsciously,  I  have  performed 


470 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


what  they  desired  to  have  had  done  by  one  of  their 
own  number. 

I  believed — and  so,  indeed,  did  all  the  world — that 
their  great  Associate  was  an  object  of  concern  to  them ; 
— they  were  anxious  to  know — so  they  said — if  David 
Livingstone  was  alive.  This  anxiety  was  shared  by 
Americans ;  and  an  American  newspaper  proprietor 
suddenly  undertook  to  despatch  a  man  on  a  mission  of 
search  and  relief  to  Central  Africa.  The  man  selected 
happened  to  be  successful,  returned  back  to  civilisation, 
and  proclaimed  that  Livingstone,  the  great  explorer,  was 
alive.  Whereupon  the  news  was  pooh-poohed  !  The 
President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  declared 
it  to  be  nonsense  ;  the  Vice-President  declared  it  to  be 
a  sensational  story ;  Cooleyism  declared  it  to  be  deaf- 
ness and  misapprehension  ;  and  a  Beke  declared  that 
the  theory  of  Dr.  Livingstone  was  impossible.  Nearly 
all  England,  and  a  great  part  of  America,  was  plunged 
into  perplexity ;  but,  gradually,  proofs  were  brought 
forward  of  the  great  fact,  that  Livingstone  was  not 
only  alive,  but  that  he  wrote  every  letter  which  pur- 
ported to  have  been  written  by  him,  without  a  single 
phrase,  suggestion,  or  interpolation  from  any  other 
hand.  Then  began  attacks  on  the  character  of  the 
unfortunate  newspaper  correspondent.  One  individual 
called  him  a  "  charlatan,  and  a  liar  ;"  another  insinuated 
that  he  was  anything  but  what  he  professed  to  be ; 
while  others  thought  that  the  much-abused  journalist 
had  stolen  the  despatches  from  a  messenger ;  and  much 
else  of  everything  that  was  vile  and  unjust. 

Permit  the  humble  newspaper  correspondent  to  ask 


Nov.  1871.]     INTERCOURSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  471 

all  geographers,  editors,  reviewers,  critics,  and  scandal- 
mongers, if  you  had  continued  your  debating,  theorising 
and  discussing,  wrangling,  guessing  and  speculating 
— good  God !  gentlemen,  between  you  all,  whither 
had  David  Livingstone,  the  illustrious  explorer,  gone 
to,  if  some  one  had  not  conveyed  to  him  comfort, 
health,  and  aid  ? 

Little  did  Dr.  Livingstone  think  that  his  humble 
friend  would  be  rewarded  by  attacks  such  as  these,  and 
little  thought  I  that  my  humble  efforts,  which  had 
been  carried  out  with  singleness  of  purpose  and  uncon- 
sciousness of  the  possibility  of  envy  or  malice,  would 
have  been  so  received.  In  my  innocence  I  thought  I 
had  only  to  tell  my  story  honestly  and  truly, 
and  that  it  would  be  at  once  received  by  all  with- 
out cavil  and  without  doubt,  and  it  is  not  unnatural 
that  I  should  feel  aggrieved  at  attacks  upon  my 
honour  and  my  veracity  in  quarters  where  I  had 
least  expected  it,  and  where  I  had  most  hoped  for  a 
different  reception. 

The  Doctor  entertained  grave  doubts  as  to  the 
propriety  of  sending  any  despatches  to  the  Eoyal 
Geographical  Society,  without  a  guaranty  that  the  infor- 
mation conveyed  to  it  would  not  be  made  the  subject 
of  pecuniary  profit.  For  the  private  information  of  the 
members  he  was  very  willing  to  relate  what  he  knew ; 
but  he  was  unwilling  that  his  discoveries  should  be  at 
the  beck  and  call  of  any  member  who  had  a  desire  to 
enrich  himself  at  his  expense.  He  also  complained 
that  a  certain  member  had  unscrupulously  made  use 
of  a  rough  sketch-map  he  had  sent  to  the  Society, 


472 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  illustrate  his  route ;  and,  on  Livingstone's  return, 
when  he  declared  his  wish  to  have  a  correct  map 
made,  according  to  observations  verified  and  corrected 
by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  Observatory,  this  member 
turned  round,  and  informed  him  how  he  had  been 
working  at  that  map  five  or  six  months,  and  he  could 
not  think  of  making  a  new  one  unless  he  was  paid  some- 
thing like  £200  for  his  trouble.  Such  facts  as  these  Dr. 
Livingstone  complains  of.  Of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society,  as  a  body,  he  entertains  the  highest  respect, 
and  thinks  with  pride  of  his  relations  with  them.  He 
complains  only  against  the  few  members  whom  he 
supposes  to  have  "  doctored  "  his  despatches,  dogmatized 
and  theorized  against  him,  and  altered  his  maps,  to 
suit  their  own  icliopathies  and  Cooleyistic  fancies.  But 
though  these  members  are  few,  they  are  too  influential 
to  be  passed  by  without  notice. 

We  passed  several  happy  days  at  Ujiji,  and  it  was 
time  we  were  now  preparing  for  our  cruise  on  the 
Tanganika.  Livingstone  was  improving  every  day 
under  the  different  diet  which  my  cook  furnished  him. 
I  could  give  him  no  such  suppers  as  that  which  Jupiter 
and  Mercury  received  at  the  cottage  of  Baucis  and 
Philemon.  We  had  no  berries  of  chaste  Minerva, 
pickled  cherries,  endive,  radishes,  dried  figs,  dates, 
fragrant  apples,  and  grapes ;  but  we  had  cheese,  and 
butter  which  I  made  myself,  new-laid  eggs,  chickens, 
roast  mutton,  fish  from  the  lake,  rich  curds  and  cream, 
wine  from  the  Guinea  palm,  egg-plants,  cucumbers, 
sweet  potatoes,  pea-nuts,  and  beans,,  white  honey  from 
Ukaranga,  luscious  singwe — a  plum-like  fruit — from  the 


Nov.  1871.]     INTER C 0 URSE  WITH  LIVINGSTONE.  473 

forests  of  Ujiji,  and  corn  scones  and  dampers,  in  place 
of  wheaten  bread. 

During  the  noontide  heats  we  sat  under  our  veranda 
discussing  our  various  projects,  and  in  the  early  morning 
and  evening  we  sought  the  shores  of  the  lake — prome- 
nading up  and  down  the  beach  to  breathe  the  cool 
breezes  which  raffled  the  surface  of  the  water,  and 
rolled  the  unquiet  surf  far  up  on  the  smooth  and 
whitened  shore. 

It  was  the  dry  season,  and  we  had  most  lovely 
weather ;  the  temperature  never  was  over  80°  in  the 
shade. 

The  market-place  overlooking  the  broad  silver  water 
afforded  us  amusement  and  instruction.  Representatives 
of  most  of  the  tribes  dwelling  near  the  lake  were  daily 
found  there.  There  were  the  agricultural  and  pastoral 
Wajiji,  with  their  flocks  and  herds ;  there  were  the 
fishermen  from  Ukaranga  and  Kaole,  from  beyond 
Bangwe,  and  even  from  Urundi,  with  their  whitebait, 
which  they  called  dogara,  the  silurus,  the  perch,  and  other 
fish  ;  there  were  the  palm-oil  merchants,  principally 
from  Ujiji  and  Urundi,  with  great  five-gallon  pots  full 
of  reddish  oil,  of  the  consistency  of  butter  ;  there  were 
the  salt  merchants  from  the  salt-plains  of  Uvinza  and 
Uhha  ;  there  were  the  ivory  merchants  from  Uvira 
and  Usowa ;  there  were  the  canoe-makers  from  Ugoma 
and  Urundi ;  there  were  the  cheap-Jack  pedlers  from 
Zanzibar,  selling  flimsy  prints,  and  brokers  exchanging 
blue  mutuncla  beads  for  sami-sami,  and  sungomazzi,  and 
sofi.  The  sofi  beads  are  like  pieces  of  thick  clay-pipe  stem 
about  half  an  inch  long,  and  are  in  great  demand  here. 


474 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Here  were  found  Waguhha,  Wamanyuema,  Wagoma, 
Wavira,  Wasige,  Warundi,  Wajiji,  Waha,  Wavinza, 
\Vasowa,  Wangwana,  Wakawendi,  Arabs,  and  Wasa- 
wahili,  engaged  in  noisy  chaffer  and  barter.  Bare- 
headed, and  almost  barebodied,  the  youths  made  love  to 
the  dark-skinned  and  woolly-headed  Phyllises,  who 
knew  not  how  to  blush  at  the  ardent  gaze  of  love,  as 
their  white  sisters;  old  matrons  gossiped,  as  the  old 
women  do  everywhere;  the  children  played,  and 
laughed,  and  struggled,  as  children  of  our  own  lands ; 
and  the  old  men,  leaning  on  their  spears  or  bows,  were 
just  as  garrulous  in  the  Place  de  Ujiji  as  the  aged 
elders  of  other  climes. 


VIEW  ON  LAKE  TANGANIKA. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANGANIKA. 

•  I  distinctly  deny  that  '  any  misleading  by  my  instructions  from 
the  Royal  Geographical  Society  as  to  the  position  of  the  White  Nile 9 
made  me  unconscious  of  the  vast  importance  of  ascertaining  the 
direction  of  the  Rusizi  River.  The  fact  is,  we  did  our  best  to  reach 
it,  and  we  failed." — Burton's  Zanzibar. 

"  The  universal  testimony  of  the  natives  to  the  Rusizi  River  being 
an  influent  is  the  most  conclusive  argument  that  it  does  run  out  of 
the  lake." — Speke. 

"  I  therefore  claim  for  Lake  Tanganika  the  honour  of  being  the 
Southernmost  Reservoir  of  the  Nile,  until  some  more  positive 
evidence,  by  actual  observation,  shall  otherwise  determine  it." — 
Findlay,  R.G.S. 

Had  Livingstone  and  myself,  after  making  up  our 
minds  to  visit  the  northern  head  of  the  Lake  Tanganika, 
been  compelled  by  the  absurd  demands  or  fears  of  a 
crew  of  Wajiji  to  return  to  Unyanyembe  without  having 


476 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


resolved  the  problem  of  the  Rusizi  River,  we  had  surely 
deserved  to  be  greeted  by  everybody  at  home  with 
a  universal  giggling  and  cackling.  But  Capt.  Burton's 
failure  to  settle  it,  by  engaging  Wajiji,  and  that  ridi- 
culous savage  chief  Kannena,  had  warned  us  of  the 
negative  assistance  we  could  expect  from  such  people 
for  the  solution  of  a  geographical  problem.  We  had 
enough  good  sailors  with  us,  who  were  entirely  under 
our  commands.  Could  we  but  procure  the  loan  of  a 
canoe,  we  thought  all  might  be  well. 

Upon  application  to  Sayd  bin  Majid,  he  at  once 
generously  permitted  us  to  use  his  canoe  for  any  service 
for  which  we  might  require  it.  After  engaging  two 
Wajiji  guides  at  two  doti  each,  we  prepared  to  sail 
from  the  port  of  Ujiji,  in  about  a  week  or  so  after  my 
entrance  into  Ujiji. 

I  have  already  stated  how  it  was  that  the  Doctor  and 
I  undertook  the  exploration  of  the  northern  half  of  the 
Tanganika  and  the  River  Rusizi,  about  which  so  much 
had  been  said  and  written. 

Before  embarking  on  this  enterprise,  Dr.  Livingstone 
had  not  definitely  made  up  his  mind  which  course 
he  should  take,  as  his  position  was  truly  deplorable. 
His  servants  consisted  of  Susi,  Chumah,  Hamoydah, 
Gardner,  and  Halimah,  the  female  cook  and  wife  of 
Hamoydah  ;  to  these  was  added  Kaif-Halek,  the  man 
whom  I  compelled  to  follow  me  from  Unyanyembe  to 
deliver  the  Livingstone  letters  to  his  master. 

Whither  could  Dr.  Livingstone  march  with  these 
few  men,  and  the  few  table-cloths  and  beads  that  re- 
mained to  him  from  the  store  squandered  by  the  imbe- 
cile Sherif  ?  This  was  a  puzzling  question.  Had  Dr. 
Livingstone  been  in  good  health,  his  usual  hardihood 
and  indomitable  spirit  had  answered  it  in  a  summary 


Nov.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


477 


way.  He  might  have  borrowed  some  cloth  from  Sayd 
bin  Majid  at  an  exorbitant  price,  sufficient  to  bring 
him  to  Unyanyembe  and  the  sea-coast.  But  how  long 
would  he  have  been  compelled  to  sit  down  at  Ujiji, 
waiting  and  waiting  for  the  goods  that  were  said  to  be 
at  Unyanyembe,  a  prey  to  high  expectations,  hoping 
day  after  day  that  the  war  would  end — hoping  week 
after  week  to  hear  that  his  goods  were  coming  ?  Who 
knows  how  long  his  weak  health  had  borne  up  against 
the  several  disappointments  to  which  he  would  be 
subjected  ? 

Though  it  was  with  all  due  deference  to  Dr.  Living- 
stone's vast  experience  as  a  traveller,  I  made  bold  to 
suggest  the  following  courses  to  him,  either  of  which 
he  could  adopt : 

1st.  To  go  home,  and  take  the  rest  he  so  well  de- 
served, and,  as  he  appeared  then,  to  be  so  much  in 
need  of. 

2nd.  To  proceed  to  Unyanyembe,  receive  his  goods, 
and  enlist  pagazis  sufficient  to  enable  him  to  travel 
anywhere,  either  to  Manyuema  or  Rua,  and  settle  the 
Nile  problem,  which  he  said  he  was  in  a  fair  way  of 
doing. 

3rd.  To  proceed  to  Unyanyembe,  receive  his  caravan, 
enlist  men,  and  try  to  join  Sir  Samuel  Baker,  either 
by  going  to  Muanza,  and  sailing  through  Ukerewe  or 
Victoria  N'Yanza  in  my  boats — which  I  should  put  up 
— to  Mtesa's  palace  at  Uganda,  thus  passing  by  Mirambo 
and  Swaruru  of  Usui,  who  would  rob  him  if  he  took 
the  usual  caravan  road  to  Uganda  ;  thence  from  Mtesa 
to  Kamrasi,  King  of  Unyoro,  where  he  would  of  course 
hear  of  the  great  white  man  who  was  said  to  be  with  a 
large  force  of  men  at  Gondokoro. 

4th.  To  proceed  to  Unyanyembe,  receive  his  caravan, 


478 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


enlist  men,  and  return  to  Ujiji,  and  back  to  Manyuema 
by  way  of  Uguhha. 

5th.  To  proceed  by  way  of  the  Busizi  through 
Ruanda,  and  so  on  to  Itara,  Unyoro,  and  Baker. 

For  either  course,  whichever  he  thought  most  ex- 
pedient, I  and  my  men  would  assist  him  as  escort  and 
carriers,  to  the  best  of  our  ability.  If  he  should  elect  to 
go  home,  I  informed  him  I  should  be  proud  to  escort 
him,  and  consider  myself  subject  to  his  commands — 
travelling  only  when  he  desired,  and  camping  only 
when  he  gave  the  word. 

6th.  The  last  course  which  I  suggested  to  him,  was 
to  permit  me  to  escort  him  to  Unyanyembe,  where 
he  could  receive  his  own  goods,  and  where  I  could 
deliver  up  to  him  a  large  supply  of  first-class  cloth  and 
beads,  guns  and  ammunition,  cooking  utensils,  clothing, 
boats,  tents,  &c.,  and  where  he  could  rest  in  a  comfort- 
able house,  while  I  would  hurry  down  to  the  coast, 
organize  a  new  expedition  composed  of  fifty  or  sixty 
faithful  men,  well  armed,  by  whom  I  could  send  an 
additional  supply  of  needful  luxuries  in  the  shape  of 
creature  comforts. 

After  long  consideration,  he  resolved  to  adopt  the 
last  course,  as  it  appeared  to  him  to  be  the  most  feasible 
one,  and  the  best,  though  he  did  not  hesitate  to  com- 
ment upon  the  unaccountable  apathy  of  his  agent  at 
Zanzibar,  which  had  caused  him  so  much  trouble  and 
vexation,  and  weary  marching  of  hundreds  of  miles. 

Our  ship — though  nothing  more  than  a  cranky  canoe 
hollowed  out  of  the  noble  mvule  tree  in  Ugoma— was 
an  African  Argo,  bound  on  a  nobler  enterprise  than  its 
famous  Grecian  prototype.  We  were  bound  upon  no 
mercenary  errand,  after  no  Golden  Fleece,  but  perhaps 
to  discover  a  highway  for  commerce  which  should 


Nov.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TA  NO  A  NIK  A. 


479 


bring  the  ships  of  the  Nile  up  to  Ujiji,  Usowa,  and  far 
Marungu.  We  did  not  know  what  we  might  discover 
on  our  voyage  to  the  northern  head  of  the  Tanganika  ; 
we  supposed  that  we  should  find  the  Eusizi  to  be  an 
effluent  of  the  Tanganika,  flowing  down  to  the  Albert 
or  the  Victoria  N'Yanza.  We  were  told  by  natives 
and  Arabs  that  the  Rusizi  ran  out  of  the  lake. 

Sayd  bin  Majid  had  stated  that  his  canoe  would 
carry  twenty-five  men,  and  3,500  lbs.  of  ivory.  Acting 
upon  this  information,  we  embarked  twenty-five  men, 
several  of  whom  had  stored  away  bags  of  salt  for  the 
purposes  of  trade  with  the  natives ;  but  upon  pushing 
off  from  the  shore  near  Ujiji,  we  discovered  the  boat 
was  too  heavily  laden,  and  was  down  to  the  gunwale. 
Returning  in-shore,  we  disembarked  six  men,  and 
unloaded  the  bags  of  salt,  which  left  us  with  sixteen 
rowers,  the  Arab  boy  Selim,  Ferajji  the  cook,  and  the 
two  Wajiji  guides. 

Having  thus  properly  trimmed  our  boat  we  again 
pushed  off,  and  steered  her  head  for  Bangwe  Island, 
which  was  distant  four  or  five  miles  from  the  Bunder 
of  Ujiji.  While  passing  this  island  the  guides  informed 
us  that  the  Arabs  and  Wajiji  took  shelter  on  it  during 
an  incursion  of  the  Watuta — which  took  place  some 
years  ago — when  they  came  and  invaded  Ujiji,  and  mas- 
sacred several  of  the  inhabitants.  Those  who  took  refuge 
on  the  island  were  the  only  persons  who  escaped  the  fire 
and  sword  with  which  the  Watuta  had  visited  Ujiji. 

After  passing  the  island  and  following  the  various 
bends  and  indentations  of  the  shore,  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  magnificent  bay  of  Kigoma,  which  strikes  one 
at  once  as  being  an  excellent  harbor  from  the  variable 
winds  which  blow  over  the  Tanganika.  About  10  a.m. 
we  drew  in  towards  the  village  of  Kigoma,  as  the  east 


4S0 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


wind  was  then  rising,  and  threatened  to  drive  us  to 
sea.  With  those  travelling  parties  who  are  not  in 
much  hurry  Kigoma  is  always  the  first  port  for  canoes 
bound  north  from  Ujiji.  The  next  morning  at  dawn 
we  struck  tent,  stowed  baggage,  cooked,  and  drank 
coffee,  and  set  off  northward  again. 

The  lake  was  quite  calm ;  its  waters,  of  a  dark-green 
color,  reflected  the  serene  blue  sky  above.  The 
hippopotami  came  up  to  breathe  in  alarmingly  close 
proximity  to  our  canoe,  and  then  plunged  their  heads 
again,  as  if  they  were  playing  hide-and-seek  with  us. 
Arriving  opposite  the  high  wooded  hills  of  Bemba,  and 
being  a  mile  from  shore,  we  thought  it  a  good  oppor- 
tunity to  sound  the  depth  of  the  water,  whose  color 
seemed  to  indicate  great  depth.  We  found  thirty-five 
fathoms  at  this  place. 

Our  canoeing  of  this  day  was  made  close  in-shore, 
with  a  range  of  hills,  beautifully  wooded  and  clothed 
with  green  grass,  sloping  abruptly,  almost  precipitously, 
into  the  depths  of  the  fresh-water  sea,  towering  imme- 
diately above  us,  and  as  we  rounded  the  several  capes 
or  points,  roused  high  expectations  of  some  new  wonder, 
or  some  exquisite  picture  being  revealed  as  the  deep 
folds  disclosed  themselves  to  us.  Nor  were  we  dis- 
appointed. The  wooded  hills,  with  a  wealth  of  boscage 
of  beautiful  trees,  many  of  which  were  in  bloom,  and 
crowned  with  floral  glory,  exhaling  an  indescribably 
sweet  fragrance,  lifting  their  heads  in  varied  contour 
— one  pyramidal,  another  a  truncated  cone  ;  one  table- 
topped,  another  ridgy,  like  the  steep  roof  of  a  church  ; 
one  a  glorious  heave  with  an  even  outline,  another 
jagged  and  savage — interested  us  considerably ;  and  the 
pretty  pictures,  exquisitely  pretty,  at  the  head  of  the 
several  bays,  evoked  many  an  exclamation  of  admiration. 


Nov.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A . 


481 


It  was  the  most  natural  thing  in  the  world  that  I  should 
feel  deepest  admiration  for  these  successive  pictures  of 
quiet  scenic  beauty,  but  the  Doctor  had  quite  as  much  to 
say  about  them  as  I  had  myself,  though,  as  one  might 
imagine,  satiated  with  pictures  of  this  kind  far  more 
beautiful — far  more  wonderful — he  should  long  ago 
have  expended  all  his  powers  of  admiring  scenes  in 
nature. 

From  Bagamoyo  to  Ujiji  I  had  seen  nothing  to  com- 
pare to  them — none  of  these  fishing  settlements  under 
the  shade  of  a  grove  of  palms  and  plantains,  banians 
and  mimosa,  with  cassava  gardens  to  the  right  and  left 
of  palmy  forests,  and  patches  of  luxuriant  grain  looking 
down  upon  a  quiet  bay,  whose  calm  waters  at  the  early 
morn  reflected  the  beauties  of  the  hills  which  sheltered 
them  from  the  rough  the  boisterous  tempests  that  so 
often  blew  without. 

The  fishermen  evidently  think  themselves  comfortably 
situated.  The  lake  affords  them  all  the  fish  they  re- 
quire, more  than  enough  to  eat,  and  the  industrious  a 
great  deal  to  sell.  The  steep  slopes  of  the  hills, 
cultivated  by  the  housewives,  contribute  plenty  of 
grain,  such  as  dourra  and  Indian  corn,  besides  cassava, 
ground-nuts  or  pea-nuts,  and  sweet  potatoes.  The 
palm  trees  afford  oil,  and  the  plantains  an  abundance 
of  delicious  fruit.  The  ravines  and  deep  gullies  supply 
them  with  the  tall  shapely  trees  from  which  they  cut 
out  their  canoes.  Nature  has  supplied  them  bountifully 
with  all  that  a  man's  heart  or  stomach  can  desire.  It 
is  while  looking  at  what  seems  both  externally  and 
internally  complete  and  perfect  happiness  that  the 
thought  occurs — how  must  these  people  sigh,  when 
driven  across  the  dreary  wilderness  that  intervenes 
between  the  lake  country  and  the  sea-coast,  for  such 

2  i 


482 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


homes  as  these! — those  unfortunates  who,  bought  by 
the  Arabs  for  a  couple  of  doti,  are  taken  away  to 
Zanzibar  to  pick  cloves,  or  do  hamal  work  ! 

As  we  drew  near  Niasanga,  our  second  camp,  the 
comjDarison  between  the  noble  array  of  picturesque  hills 
and  receding  coves,  with  their  pastoral  and  agricultural 
scenes,  and  the  shores  of  old  Pontus,  was  very  great. 
A  few  minutes  before  we  hauled  our  canoe  ashore, 
two  little  incidents  occurred.  I  shot  an  enormous  dog- 
faced  monkey,  which  measured  from  nose  to  end  of  tail 
4  feet  9  inches ;  the  face  was  8^  inches  long,  its  body 
weighed  about  100  lbs.  It  had  no  mane  or  tuft  at  end 
of  tail,  but  the  body  was  covered  with  long  wiry  hair. 
Numbers  of  these  specimens  were  seen,  as  well  as  of  the 
active  cat-headed  and  long-tailed  smaller  ones.  The 
other  was  the  sight  of  a  large  lizard,  about  2^  feet  long, 
which  waddled  into  cover  before  we  had  well  noticed 
it.    The  Doctor  thought  it  the  Monitor  terrestris. 

We  encamped  under  a  banian  tree ;  our  surroundings 
were  the  now  light- grey  waters  of  the  Tanganika,  an 
amphitheatral  range  of  hills,  and  the  village  of  Niasanga, 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  rivulet  Niasanga,  with  its 
grove  of  palms,  thicket  of  plantains,  and  plots  of  grain 
and  cassava  fields.  Near  our  tent  were  about  half-a- 
dozen  canoes,  large  and  small,  belonging  to  the  villagers. 
Our  tent  door  fronted  the  glorious  expanse  of  fresh 
water,  inviting  the  breeze,  and  the  views  of  distant 
Ugoma  and  Ukaramba,  and  the  Island  of  Muzimu, 
whose  ridges  appeared  of  a  deep-blue  color.  At  our 
feet  were  the  clean  and  well-washed  pebbles,  borne 
upward  into  tiny  lines  and  heaps  by  the  restless  surf. 
A  search  amongst  these  would  reveal  to  us  the 
material  of  the  mountain  heaps  which  rose  behind  and 
on  our  right  and  left;  there  was  schist,  conglomerate 


Nov.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANGANIKA.  483 

sandstone,  a  hard  white  clay,  an  ochreish  clay  containing 
much  iron,  polished  quartz,  &c.  Looking  out  of  our 
tent,  we  could  see  a  line  on  each  side  of  us  of  thick  tall 
reeds,  which  formed  something  like  a  hedge  between 
the  beach  and  the  cultivated  area  around  Niasanga. 
Among  birds  seen  here,  the  most  noted  were  the  merry 
wagtails,  which  are  regarded  as  good  omens  and 
messengers  of  peace  by  the  natives,  and  any  harm  done 
unto  them  is  quickly  resented,  and  is  fineable.  Except 
to  the  mischievously  inclined,  they  offer  no  inducement 
to  commit  violence.  On  landing,  they  flew  to  meet  us, 
balancing  themselves  in  the  air  in  front,  within  easy 
reach  of  our  hands.  The  other  birds  were  crows, 
turtle-doves,  fish-hawks,  kingfishers,  ibis  nigra  and  ibis 
religiosa,  flocks  of  whydah  birds,  geese,  darters,  paddy 
birds,  kites,  and  eagles. 

At  this  place  the  Doctor  suffered  from  diarrhoea — it 
is  his  only  weak  point,  he  says  ;  and,  as  I  afterwards 
found,  it  is  a  frequent  complaint  with  him.  Whatever 
disturbed  his  mind,  or  any  irregularity  in  eating,  was 
sure  to  end  in  diarrhoea.  With  me  it  was  quite  the 
reverse ;  any  exposure  to  malaria,  encamping  near  a 
fetid  swamp,  or  mind  disturbed,  was  sure  to  produce 
excessive  costiveness,  and  perhaps  an  attack  of  ague. 

The  third  day  of  our  journey  on  the  Tanganika 
brought  us  to  Zassi  Kiver  and  village,  after  a  four 
hours'  pull.  Along  the  line  of  road  the  mountains 
rose  2,000  and  2,500  feet  above  the  waters  of  the  lake. 
I  imagined  the  scenery  getting  more  picturesque  and 
animated  at  every  step,  and  thought  it  by  far  lovelier 
than  anything  seen  near  Lake  George  or  on  the 
Hudson.  The  cosy  nooks  at  the  head  of  the  many 
small  bays  constitute  most  admirable  pictures,  filled  in 
as  they  are  with  the  ever-beautiful  feathery  palms  and 

2  I  2 


484 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


broad  green  plantain  fronds.  These  nooks  have  all 
been  taken  possession  of  by  fishermen,  and  their 
conically  beehive-shaped  huts  always  peep  from  under 
the  frond  age.  The  shores  are  thus  extremely  populous ; 
every  terrace,  small  plateau,  and  bit  of  level  ground 
is  occupied. 

Zassi  is  easily  known  by  a  group  of  conical  hills 
which  rise  near  by,  and  are  called  Kirassa.  Opposite  to 
these,  at  the  distance  of  about  a  mile  from  shore,  we 
sounded,  and  obtained  35  fathoms,  as  on  the  previous 
day.  Getting  out  a  mile  further,  I  let  go  the  whole 
length  of  my  line,  115  fathoms,  and  obtained  no 
bottom.  In  drawing  it  up  again  the  line  parted,  and 
I  lost  the  lead,  with  three-fourths  of  the  line.  The 
Doctor  stated,  apropos  of  this,  that  he  had  sounded 
opposite  the  lofty  Kabogo,  south  of  Ujiji,  and  obtained 
the  great  depth  of  300  fathoms.  He  also  lost  his  lead 
and  100  fathoms  of  his  line,  but  he  had  nearly  900 
fathoms  left,  and  this  was  in  the  canoe.  We  hoped 
to  use  this  long  sounding  line  in  going  across  from  the 
eastern  to  the  western  shore. 

On  the  fourth  day  we  arrived  at  Nyabigma,  a  sandy 
island  in  Urundi.  We  had  passed  the  boundary  line 
between  Ujiji  and  Urundi  half-an-hour  before  arriving 
at  Nyabigma.  The  Mshala  River  is  considered  by  both 
nations  to  be  the  proper  divisional  line  ;  though  there 
are  parties  of  Warundi  who  have  emigrated  beyond  the 
frontier  into  Ujiji ;  for  instance,  the  Mutware  and 
villagers  of  populous  Kagunga,  distant  an  hour  north 
from  Zassi.  There  are  also  several  small  parties  of 
Wajiji,  who  have  taken  advantage  of  the  fine  lands  in 
the  deltas  of  the  Kasokwe,  Namusinga,  and  Luaba 
Rivers,  the  two  first  of  which  enter  the  Tanganika  in 
this  bay,  near  the  head  of  which  Nyabigma  is  situated. 


Xov.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


486 


From  Nyabigma,  a  pretty  good  view  of  the  deep 
curve  in  the  great  mountain  range  which  stretches 
from  Cape  Kazinga  and  terminates  at  Cape  Kasofu, 
may  be  obtained — a  distance  of  twenty  or  twenty- five 
miles.  It  is  a  most  imposing  scene,  this  great  humpy, 
ri.lgy,  and  irregular  line  of  mountains.  Deep  ravines 
and  chasms  afford  outlets  to  the  numerous  streams  and 
rivers  which  take  their  rise  in  the  background ;  the 
pale  fleecy  ether  almost  always  shrouds  its  summit. 
From  its  base  extends  a  broad  alluvial  plain,  rich 
beyond  description,  teeming  with  palms  and  plantains, 
and  umbrageous  trees.  Villages  are  seen  in  clusters 
everywhere.  Into  this  alluvial  plain  run  the  Luaba, 
or  Ruaba  River,  on  the  north  side  of  Cape  Kitunda,  and 
the  Kasokwe,  Namusinga,  and  Mshala  Rivers,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  cape.  All  the  deltas  of  rivers  empty- 
ing into  the  Tanganika  are  hedged  in  on  all  sides 
with  a  thick  growth  of  matete,  a  gigantic  species  of 
grass,  and  papyrus.  In  some  deltas,  as  that  of  Luaba 
and  Kasokwe,  morasses  have  been  formed,  in  which  the 
matete  and  papyrus  jungle  is  impenetrable.  In  the 
depths  of  them  are  quiet  and  deep  pools,  frequented  by 
various  aquatic  birds,  such  as  geese,  ducks,  snipes, 
widgeons,  kingfishers  and  ibis,  cranes  and  storks,  and 
pelicans.  To  reach  their  haunts  is,  however,  a  work  of 
great  difficulty  to  the  sportsman  in  quest  of  game  ;  a 
work  often  attended  with  great  danger,  from  the 
treacherous  nature  of  these  morasses,  as  well  as  from 
the  dreadful  attacks  of  fever  which,  in  these  regions, 
invariably  follow  wet  feet  and  wet  clothes. 

At  Nyabigma  we  prepared,  by  distributing  ten  rounds 
of  ammunition  to  each  of  our  men,  for  a  tussle  with  the 
Warnndi  of  two  stages  ahead,  should  they  invite  it  by  a 
too  forward  exhibition  of  their  prejudice  to  strangers. 


i86 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


At  dawn  of  the  fifth  day  we  quitted  the  haven  of 
Nyabigma  Island,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  had  arrived 
off  Cape  Kitunda.  This  cape  is  a  low  platform  of  con- 
glomerate sandstone,  extending  for  about  eight  miles 
from  the  base  of  the  great  mountain  curve  which  gives 
birth  to  the  Luaba  and  its  sister  streams.  Crossing  the 
deep  bay,  at  the  head  of  which  is  the  delta  of  the  Luaba, 
we  came  to  Cape  Kasofu.  Villages  are  numerous  in  this 
vicinity.  From  hence  we  obtained  a  view  of  a  series 
of  points  or  capes,  Kigongo,  Katunga,  and  Buguluka, 
all  of  which  we  passed  before  coming  to  a  halt  at  the 
pretty  position  of  Mukungu. 

At  Mukungu,  where  we  stopped  on  the  fifth  day,  we 
were  asked  for  honga,  or  tribute.  The  cloth  and 
beads  upon  which  we  subsisted  during  our  lake  voyage 
were  mine,  but  the  Doctor,  being  the  elder  of  the  two, 
more  experienced,  and  the  "  big  man  "  of  the  party,  had 
the  charge  of  satisfying  all  such  demands.  Many  and  many 
a  time  had  I  gone  through  the  tedious  and  soul-wearying 
task  of  settling  the  honga,  and  I  was  quite  curious  to 
see  how  the  great  traveller  would  perform  the  work. 

The  Mateko  (a  man  inferior  to  a  Mutware)  of 
Mukungu  asked  for  two  and  a  half  doti.  This  was  the 
extent  of  the  demand,  which  he  made  known  to  us  a 
little  after  dark.  The  Doctor  asked  if  nothing  had 
been  brought  to  us.  He  was  answered,  "No,  it  was 
too  late  to  get  anything  now ;  but.  if  we  paid  the 
honga,  the  Mateko  would  be  ready  to  give  us  some- 
thing when  we  came  back."  Livingstone,  upon  hearing 
this,  smiled,  and  the  Mateko  being  then  and  there  in 
front  of  him,  he  said  to  hini,  "  Well,  if  you  can't  get  us 
anything  now,  and  intend  to  give  us  something  when  we 
return,  we  had  better  keep  the  honga  until  then."  The 
Mateko  was  rather  taken  aback  at  this,  and  demurred 


Nov.  1871.]      OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


487 


to  any  such  proposition.  Seeing  that  he  was  dis- 
satisfied, we  urged  him  to  bring  one  sheep — one  little 
sheep — for  our  stomachs  were  nearly  empty,  having 
been  waiting  more  than  half  a  day  for  it.  The  appeal 
was  successful,  for  the  old  man  hastened,  and  brought 
us  a  lamb  and  a  three-gallon  pot  of  sweet  but  strong 
zogga,  or  palm  toddy,  and  in  return  the  Doctor  gave 
him  two  and  a  half  doti  of  cloth.  The  lamb  was  killed, 
and,  our  digestions  being  good,  its  flesh  agreed  with  us ; 
but,  alas,  for  the  effects  of  zogga,  or  palm  toddy ! 
Susi,  the  invaluable  adjunct  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  and 
Bombay,  the  headman  of  my  caravan,  were  the  two 
charged  with  watching  the  canoe  ;  but,  having  imbibed 
too  freely  of  this  intoxicating  toddy,  they  slept  heavily, 
and  in  the  morning  the  Doctor  and  I  had  to  regret  the 
loss  of  several  valuable  and  indispensable  things ;  among 
which  may  be  mentioned  the  Doctor's  900-fatbom 
sounding-line,  500  rounds  of  pin,  rim,  and  central-fire 
cartridges  for  my  arms,  and  ninety  musket  bullets, 
also  belonging  to  me.  Besides  these,  which  were  indis- 
pensable in  hostile  Warundi,  a  large  bag  of  flour  and 
the  Doctor's  entire  stock  of  white  sugar  were  stolen. 
This  was  the  third  time  that  my  reliance  in  Bombay's 
trustworthiness  resulted  in  a  great  loss  to  me,  and  for 
the  ninety-ninth  time  I  had  to  regret  bitterly  having 
placed  such  entire  confidence  in  Speke's  and  Grant's 
loud  commendation  of  him.  It  was  only  the  natural 
cowardice  of  ignorant  thieves  that  prevented  the 
savages  from  taking  the  boat  and  its  entire  contents, 
together  with  Bombay  and  Susi  as  slaves.  I  can  well 
imagine  the  joyful  surprise  which  must  have  been  called 
forth  at  the  sight  and  exquisite  taste  of  the  Doctor's 
sugar,  and  the  wonder  with  which  they  must  have 
regarded  the  strange  ammunition  of  the  Wasungu.  It 


488 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


is  to  be  sincerely  hoped  they  did  not  hurt  themselves 
with  the  explosive  bullets  and  rim  cartridges  through 
any  ignorance  of  the  nature  of  their  deadly  contents ; 
in  which  case  the  box  and  its  contents  would  prove  a 
very  Pandora's  casket. 

Much  grieved  at  our  loss,  we  set  off  on  the  sixth  day 
at  the  usual  hour  on  our  watery  journey.  We  coasted 
close  to  the  several  low  headlands  formed  by  the  rivers 
Kigwena,  Kikumu,  and  Kisunwe ;  and  when  any  bay 
promised  to  be  interesting  steered  the  canoe  according 
to  its  indentations.  While  travelling  on  the  water — 
each  day  brought  forth  similar  scenes— on  our  right 
rose  the  mountains  of  Urundi,  now  and  then  disclosing 
the  ravines  through  which  the  several  rivers  and  streams 
issued  into  the  great  lake ;  at  their  base  were  the 
alluvial  plains,  where  flourished  the  oil  palm  and  grate- 
ful plantain,  while  scores  of  villages  were  grouped  under 
their  shade.  Now  and  then  we  passed  long  narrow 
strips  of  pebbly  or  sandy  beach,  whereon  markets  were 
improvised  for  selling  fish  and  the  staple  products  of 
the  respective  communities.  Then  we  passed  broad 
swampy  morasses,  formed  by  the  numerous  streams 
which  the  mountains  discharged,  where  the  matete  and 
papyrus  flourished.  Now  the  mountains  approached  to 
the  water ;  their  sides  descending  abruptly  to  the 
waters  edge,  then  they  receded  into  deep  folds,  at  the 
base  of  which  was  sure  to  be  seen  an  alluvial  plain 
from  one  to  eight  miles  broad.  Almost  constantly 
we  observed  canoes  being  punted  vigorously  close  to 
the  surf,  in  fearless  defiance  of  a  catastrophe,  such  as 
a  capsize  and  gobbling-up  by  voracious  crocodiles. 
Sometimes  we  sighted  a  canoe  a  short  distance  ahead 
of  us ;  whereupon  our  men,  with  song  and  chorus, 
would  exert  themselves  to  the   utmost  to  overtake 


Nov.  1871.]      OUR  CRUISE  ON  TEE  TANOANIKA 


*8S 


it.  Upon  observing  our  efforts,  the  natives  would 
bend  themselves  to  their  tasks,  and  paddling  standing 
and  stark  naked,  give  us  ample  opportunities  for  study- 
ing at  our  leisure  comparative  anatomy.  Or  we  saw  a 
group  of  fishermen  lazily  reclining  in  puris  naturalibus 
on  the  beach,  regarding  with  curious  eye  the  canoes 
as  they  passed  their  neighbourhood ;  then  we  passed  a 
flotilla  of  canoes,  their  owners  sitting  quietly  in  their 
huts,  busily  plying  the  rod  and  hook,  or  casting  their 
nets,  or  a  couple  of  men  arranging  their  long  drag  nets 
close  in  shore  for  a  haul ;  or  children  sporting  fearlessly 
in  the  water,  with  their  mothers  looking  on  approvingly 
from  under  the  shade  of  a  tree,  from  which  I  infer  that 
there  are  not  many  crocodiles  in  the  lake,  except  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  large  rivers. 

After  passing  the  low  headland  of  Kisunwe,  formed 
by  the  Kisunwe  River,  we  came  in  view  of  Murembwe 
Cape,  distant  about  four  or  five  miles :  the  intervening 
ground  being  low  land,  a  sandy  and  pebbly  beach. 
Close  to  the  beach  are  scores  of  villages,  while  the 
crowded  shore  indicates  the  populousness  of  the  place 
beyond.  About  half  way  between  Cape  Kisunwe  and 
Murembwe,  is  a  cluster  of  villages  called  Bikari, 
which  has  a  Mutware  who  is  in  the  habit  of  taking 
honga.  As  we  were  rendered  unable  to  cope  for 
any  length  of  time  with  any  mischievously  inclined 
community,  all  villages  having  a  bad  reputation  with 
the  "Wajiji  were  avoided  by  us.  But  even  the  Wajiji 
guides  were  sometimes  mistaken,  and  led  us  more  than 
once  into  dangerous  places.  The  guides  evidently 
had  no  objections  to  halt  at  Bikari,  as  it  was  the 
second  camp  from  Mukungu ;  because  with  them 
a  halt  in  the  cool  shade  of  plantains  was  infinitely 
preferable  to  sitting  like  carved  pieces  of  wood  in  a 


490 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


cranky  canoe.  But  before  they  stated  their  objections 
and  preferences,  the  Bikari  people  called  to  us  in  a  loud 
voice  to  come  ashore,  threatening  us  with  the  vengeance 
of  the  great  Wami  if  we  did  not  halt.  As  the  voices 
were  anything  but  siren-like,  we  obstinately  refused  to 
accede  to  the  request.  Finding  threats  of  no  avail, 
they  had  recourse  to  stones,  and,  accordingly,  flung 
them  at  us  in  a  most  hearty  manner.  As  one  came 
within  a  foot  of  my  arm,  I  suggested  that  a  bullet  be 
sent  in  return  in  close  proximity  to  their  feet ;  but 
Livingstone,  though  he  said  nothing,  yet  showed 
plainly  enough  that  he  did  not  quite  approve  of  this. 
As  these  demonstrations  of  hostility  were  anything  but 
welcome,  and  as  we  saw  signs  of  it  almost  every  time 
we  came  opposite  to  a  village,  we  kept  on  our  way 
until  we  came  to  Murembwe  Point,  which,  being  a 
delta  of  a  river  of  the  same  name,  was  well  protected 
by  a  breadth  of  thorny  jungle,  spiky  cane,  and  a  thick 
growth  of  reed  and  papyrus,  from  which  the  boldest 
Mrundi  might  well  shrink,  especially  if  he  called  to 
mind  that  beyond  this  inhospitable  swamp  were  the 
guns  of  the  strangers  his  like  had  so  rudely  chal- 
lenged. We  drew  our  canoe  ashore  here,  and,  on  a 
limited  area  of  clean  sand,  Ferajji,  our  rough-and- 
ready  cook,  lit  his  fire,  and  manufactured  for  us  a 
supply  of  most  delicious  Mocha  coffee.  Despite  the 
dangers  which  still  beset  us,  we  were  quite  happy,  and 
seasoned  our  meal  with  a  little  moral  philosophy,  which 
lifted  us  unconsciously  into  infinitely  superior  bemgs 
to  the  pagans  by  whom  we  were  surrounded — upon 
whom  we  now  looked  down,  under  the  influence  of  Mocha 
coffee  and  moral  philosophy,  with  calm  contempt,  not 
unmixed  with  a  certain  amount  of  compassion.  The 
Doctor  related  some  experiences  he  had  had  among 


Nov.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


491 


people  of  similar  disposition,  but  did  not  fail  to  ascribe 
them,  with  the  wisdom  of  a  man  of  ripe  experiences,  to 
the  unwise  conduct  of  the  Arabs  and  half-castes  ;  in 
this  opinion  I  unreservedly  concur. 

From  Murembwe  Point,  having  finished  our  coffee 
and  ended  our  discourse  on  ethics,  we  proceeded  on  our 
voyage,  steering  for  Cape  Sentakeyi,  which,  though  it 
was  eight  or  ten  miles  away,  we  hoped  to  make  before 
dark.  The  Wangwana  pulled  with  right  good  will,  but 
ten  hours  went  by,  and  night  was  drawing  near,  and  we 
were  still  far  from  Sentakeyi.  As  it  was  a  fine  moon- 
light night,  and  we  were  fully  alive  to  the  dangerous 
position  in  which  we  might  find  ourselves,  they  con- 
sented to  pull  an  hour  or  two  more.  About  8  p.m.,  we 
pulled  in  shore  for  a  deserted  spot — a  clean  shelf  of  sand, 
about  thirty  feet  long  by  ten  deep,  from  which  a  clay 
bank  rose  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  above,  while  on  each 
side  there  were  masses  of  disintegrated  rock.  Here 
we  thought,  that  by  preserving  some  degree  of  silence, 
we  might  escape  observation,  and  consequent  annoyance, 
for  a  few  hours,  when,  being  rested,  we  might  con- 
tinue our  journey.  Our  kettle  was  boiling  for  tea,  and 
the  men  had  built  a  little  fire  for  themselves,  and  had 
filled  their  black  earthen  pot  with  water  for  porridge, 
when  our  look-outs  perceived  dark  forms  creeping 
towards  our  bivouac.  Being  hailed,  they  at  once  came 
forward,  and  saluted  us  with  the  native  "  Wake." 
Our  guides  explained  that  we  were  Wangwana,  and 
intended  to  camp  until  morning,  when,  if  they  had 
anything  to  sell,  we  should  be  glad  to  trade  with  them. 
They  said  they  were  rejoiced  to  hear  this,  and  after  they 
had  exchanged  a  few  words  more — during  wThich  time 
we  observed  that  they  were  taking  mental  notes  of  the 
camp — they  went  away.    Upon  leaving,  they  promised 


492 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  return  in  the  morning  with  food,  and  make  friends 
with  us.  While  drinking  our  tea,  the  look-outs  warned 
us  of  the  approach  of  a  second  party,  which  went  through 
the  same  process  of  saluting  and  observing  as  the  first 
had  done.  These  also  went  away,  over-exuberant,  as  I 
thought,  and  were  shortly  succeeded  by  a  third  party, 
who  came  and  went  as  the  others  had.  From  all  this 
we  inferred  that  the  news  was  spreading  rapidly 
through  the  villages  about,  and  we  had  noticed  two 
canoes  passing  backwards  and  forwards  with  rather  more 
haste  than  we  deemed  usual  or  necessary.  We  had  good 
cause  to  be  suspicious ;  it  is  not  customary  for  people 
(at  least,  between  Ujiji  and  Zanzibar)  to  be  about  visit- 
ing and  saluting  after  dark,  under  any  pretence ;  it  is 
not  permitted  to  persons  to  prowl  about  camp  after  dark 
without  being  shot  at ;  and  this  going  backward  and  for- 
ward, this  ostentatious  exuberance  of  joy  at  the  arrival 
of  a  small  party  of  Wangwana,  which  in  many  parts  of 
Urundi  would  be  regarded  as  a  very  common  event, 
was  altogether  very  suspicious.  While  the  Doctor  and 
I  were  arriving  at  the  conclusion  that  these  move- 
ments were  preliminary  to  or  significant  of  hostility,  a 
fourth  body,  very  boisterous  and  loud,  came  and  visited 
us.  Our  supper  had  been  by  this  time  despatched,  and 
we  thought  it  high  time  to  act.  The  fourth  party  having 
gone  with  extravagant  manifestations  of  delight,  the 
men  were  hurried  into  the  canoe,  and,  when  all  were 
seated,  and  the  look-outs  embarked,  we  quietly  pushed  off, 
but  not  a  moment  too  soon.  As  the  canoe  was  gliding 
from  the  darkened  light  that  surrounded  us,  I  called 
the  Doctor's  attention  to  several  dark  forms ;  some  of 
whom  were  crouching  behind  the  rocks  on  our  right, 
and  others  scrambling  over  them  to  obtain  good  or 
better  positions  ;  at  the  same  time  people  were  approach- 


Nov.  1871.]      OUR  CRUISE  ON  TEE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


493 


ing  from  the  left  of  our  position,  in  the  same  suspicious 
way ;  and  directly  a  voice  hailed  us  from  the  top  of  the 
clay  bank  overhanging  the  sandy  shelf  where  we  had 
lately  been  resting.  "  Neatly  done,"  cried  the  Doctor, 
as  we  were  shooting  through  the  water,  leaving  the 
discomfited  would-be  robbers  behind  us.  Here,  again, 
my  hand  was  stayed  from  planting  a  couple  of  good 
shots,  as  a  warning  to  them  in  future  from  molesting 
strangers,  by  the  mere  presence  of  the  Doctor,  who,  as  I 
thought,  if  it  were  actually  necessary,  would  not  hesitate 
to  give  the  word. 

After  pulling  six  hours  more,  during  which  we  had 
rounded  Cape  Sentakeyi,  we  stopped  at  the  small 
fishing  village  of  Mugeyo,  where  we  were  permitted 
to  sleep  unmolested.  At  dawn  we  continued  our 
journey,  and  about  8  a.m.  arrived  at  the  village  of  the 
friendly  Mutware  of  Magala.  We  had  pulled  for 
eighteen  hours  at  a  stretch,  which,  at  the  rate  of  two 
miles  and  a  half  per  hour,  would  make  forty-five  miles. 
Taking  bearings  from  our  camp  at  Cape  Magala,  one 
of  the  most  prominent  points  in  travelling  north  from 
Ujiji,  we  found  that  the  large  island  of  Muzimu, 
which  had  been  in  sight  ever  since  rounding  Cape 
Bangwe,  near  Ujiji  Bunder,  bore  about  south-south- 
west, and  that  the  western  shore  had  considerably 
approached  to  the  eastern ;  the  breadth  of  the  lake 
being  at  this  point  about  eight  or  ten  miles.  We  had 
a  good  view  of  the  western  highlands,  which  seemed  to 
be  of  an  average  height,  about  3,000  feet  above  the 
lake.  Luhanga  Peak,  rising  a  little  to  the  north  of 
west  from  Magala,  might  be  about  500  feet  higher ; 
and  Sumburizi,  a  little  north  of  Luhanga,  where  lived 
Mruta,  Sultan  of  Uvira,  the  country  opposite  to  this 
part  of  Urundi,  about  300  feet  higher  than  the  neigh- 


494 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


boring  heights.  Northward  from  Magala  Cape  the 
lake  streamed  away  between  two  chains  of  mountains ; 
both  meeting  in  a  point  about  thirty  miles  north  of  us. 

The  Warundi  of  Magala  were  very  civil,  and  pro- 
found starers.  They  flocked  around  the  tent  door,  and 
most  pertinaciously  gazed  on  us,  as  if  we  were  subjects 
of  most  intense  interest,  but  liable  to  sudden  and 
eternal  departure.  The  Mutware  came  to  see  us  late 
in  the  afternoon,  dressed  with  great  pomp.  He  turned 
out  to  be  a  boy  whom  I  had  noticed  in  the  crowd  of 
gazers  for  his  good  looks  and  fine  teeth,  which  he 
showed,  being  addicted  to  laughing,  continually.  There 
was  no  mistaking  him,  though  he  was  now  decorated 
with  many  ivory  ornaments,  with  necklaces,  and  with 
heavy  brass  bracelets  and  iron  wire  anklets.  Our 
admiration  of  him  was  reciprocated ;  and,  in  return  for 
our  two  doti  of  cloth  and  a  fundo  of  samsam,  he  gave 
a  fine  fat  and  broad-tailed  sheep,  and  a  pot  of  milk. 
In  our  condition  both  were  extremely  acceptable. 

At  Magala  we  heard  of  a  war  raging  between 
Mukamba,  for  whose  country  we  were  bound,  and 
Warumashanya,  a  Sultan  of  an  adjoining  district ;  and 
we  were  advised  that,  unless  we  intended  to  assist  one 
of  these  chiefs  against  the  other,  it  would  be  better 
for  us  to  return.  But,  as  we  had  started  to  solve  the 
problem  of  the  Rusizi  River,  such  considerations  had 
no  weight  with  us. 

On  the  eighth  morning  from  leaving  Ujiji  we  bade 
farewell  to  the  hospitable  people  of  Magala,  and  set  off 
for  Mukamba's  country,  which  was  in  view.  Soon 
after  passing  the  boundary  between  Urundi  proper, 
and  wThat  is  known  as  Usige,  a  storm  from  the  south- 
west arose ;  and  the  fearful  yawing  of  our  canoe 
into  the  wave  trough  warned  us  from  proceeding 


Nov.  1871.]      OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANGANIKA. 


495 


further  ;  so  we  turned  her  head  for  Kisuka  village, 
about  four  miles  north,  where  Mugere,  in  Usige, 
begins. 

At  Kisuka  a  Mgwana  living  with  Mukamba  came  to 
see  us,  and  gave  us  details  of  the  war  between  Mu- 
kamba and  Warumashanya,  from  which  it  seemed  that 
these  two  chiefs  were  continually  at  loggerheads.  It  is 
a  tame  way  of  fighting,  after  all.  One  chief  makes  a 
raid  into  the  other's  country,  and  succeeds  in  making 
off  with  a  herd  of  cattle,  killing  one  or  two  men  who 
have  been  surprised.  Weeks,  or  perhaps  months  elapse 
before  the  other  retaliates,  and  effects  a  capture  in  a 
similar  way,  and  then  a  balance  is  struck  in  which 
neither  is  the  gainer.  Seldom  do  they  attack  each 
other  with  courage  and  hearty  good  will,  the  constitu- 
tion of  the  African  being  decidedly  against  any  such 
energetic  warfare. 

This  Mgwana,  further,  upon  being  questioned,  gave 
us  information  far  more  interesting,  viz.,  about  the 
Kusizi.  He  told  us  positively,  with  the  air  of  a  man 
who  knew  all  about  it,  and  as  if  anybody  who  doubted 
him  might  well  be  set  down  as  an  egregious  ass,  that  the 
Rusizi  River  flowed  out  of  the  lake,  away  to  Suna's 
(Mtesa's)  country.  "  Where  else  could  it  flow  to  ?"  he 
asked.  The  Doctor  was  inclined  to  believe  it,  or, 
perhaps,  he  was  more  inclined  to  let  it  rest  as  stated  until 
our  own  eyes  should  confirm  it.  I  was  more  inclined  to 
doubt,  as  I  told  the  Doctor ;  first,  it  was  too  good  to  be 
true ;  second,  the  fellow  was  too  enthusiastic  upon  a 
subject  that  could  not  possibly  interest  him.  His 
"Barikallahs"  and  "Inshallahs"  were  far  too  fervid;  his 
answers  too  much  in  accordance  with  our  wishes.  The 
Doctor  laid  great  stress  on  the  report  of  a  Mgwana 
he  met  far  south,  who  stated  that  the  grandfather  or 


496 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


father  of  Rumanika,  present  King  of  Karagwah,  had 
thought  of  excavating  the  bed  of  the  Kitangule  River, 
in  order  that  his  canoes  might  go  to  Ujiji  to  open  a 
trade.  From  this  I  imagine,  coinciding  as  it  did  with 
his  often-expressed  and  present  firm  belief  that  the 
waters  of  the  Tanganika  have  an  outlet  somewhere,  the 
Doctor  was  partial  to  the  report  of  the  Mgwana ;  but 
as  we  proceed  we  shall  see  how  all  this  will  end. 

On  the  ninth  morning  from  Ujiji,  about  two  hours 
after  sunrise,  we  passed  the  broad  delta  of  the  Mugere, 
a  river  which  gives  its  name  also  to  the  district  on  the 
eastern  shore  ruled  over  by  Mukamba.  We  had  come 
directly  opposite  the  most  southern  of  its  three  mouths, 
when  we  found  quite  a  difference  in  the  colour  of  the 
water.  An  almost  straight  line,  drawn  east  and  west 
from  the  mouth  would  serve  well  to  mark  off  the 
difference  that  existed  between  the  waters.  On  the 
south  side  was  pure  water  of  a  light  green;  on 
the  north  side  it  was  muddy,  and  the  current  could 
be  distinctly  seen  flowing  north.  Soon  after  passing 
the  first  mouth  we  came  to  a  second,  and  then  a  third 
mouth,  each  only  a  few  yards  broad,  but  each  dis- 
charging sufficient  water  to  permit  our  following  the 
line  of  the  currents  several  rods  north  beyond  the  re- 
spective mouths. 

Beyond  the  third  mouth  of  the  Mugere  a  bend  dis- 
closed itself,  with  groups  of  villages  beyond  on  its 
bank.  These  were  Mukamba's,  and  in  one  of  them 
lived  Mukamba,  the  chief.  The  natives  had  yet  never 
seen  a  white  man,  and,  of  course,  as  soon  as  we  landed 
we  were  surrounded  by  a  large  concourse,  all  armed 
with  long  spears — the  only  weapon  visible  amongst 
them  save  a  club-stick,  and  here  and  there  a 
hatchet. 


Nov.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANGANIKA.  497 

We  were  shown  into  a  hut,  which  the  Doctor  and  I 
shared  between  us.  What  followed  on  that  day  I  have 
but  a  dim  recollection,  having  been  struck  down  by 
fever — the  first  since  leaving  Unyanyembe.  I  dimly 
recollect  trying  to  make  out  what  age  Mukamba  might 
be,  and  noting  that  he  was  good-look:ng  withal,  and 
kindly-disposed  towards  us.  And  during  the  intervals 
of  agony  and  unconsciousness,  I  saw,  or  fancied  I  saw, 
Livingstone's  form  moving  towards  me,  and  felt,  or 
fancied  I  felt,  Livingstone's  hand  tenderly  feeling  my 
hot  head  and  limbs.  I  had  suffered  several  fevers 
between  Bagamoyo  and  Unyanyembe,  without  anything 
or  anybody  to  relieve  me  of  the  tedious  racking 
headache  and  pain,  or  to  illumine  the  dark  and  gloomy 
prospect  which  must  necessarily  surround  the  bedside 
of  the  sick  and  solitary  traveller.  But  though  this  fever, 
having  enjoyed  immunity  from  it  for  three  months, 
was  more  severe  than  usual,  I  did  not  much  regret  its 
occurrence,  since  I  became  the  recipient  of  the  very 
tender  and  fatherly  kindness  of  the  good  man  whose 
companion  I  now  found  myself. 

The  next  morning,  having  recovered  slightly  from 
the  fever,  when  Mukamba  came  with  a  present  of  an 
ox,  a  sheep,  and  a  goat,  I  was  able  to  attend  to  the 
answers  which  he  gave  to  the  questions  about  the 
Rusizi  River  and  the  head  of  the  lake.  The  ever 
cheerful  and  enthusiastic  Mgwana  was  there  also,  and 
he  was  not  a  whit  abashed  when,  through  him,  the 
chief  told  us  that  the  Rusizi,  joined  by  the  Ruanda,  or 
Luanda,  at  a  distance  of  two  days'  journey  by  water,  or 
one  day  by  land  from  the  head  of  the  lake,  flowed  INTO 
the  lake. 

Thus  our  hopes,  excited  somewhat  by  the  positive 
and  repeated  assurances  that  the  river  flowed  out  away 

2  k 


49S 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


towards  Karagwah,  collapsed  as  speedily  as  they  were 
raised. 

We  paid  Mukamba  the  honga,  consisting  of  nine  doti 
and  nine  fundo  of  samsam,  lunghio,  muzurio  n'zige. 
The  printed  handkerchiefs,  which  I  had  in  abundance 
at  Unyanyembe,  would  have  gone  well  here.  After 
receiving  his  present;  the  chief  introduced  his  son,  a 
tall  youth  of  eighteen  or  thereabouts,  to  the  Doctor,  as 
a  would-be  son  of  the  Doctor  ;  but,  with  a  good- 
natured  laugh,  the  Doctor  scouted  all  such  relationship 
with  him,  as  it  was  instituted  only  for  the  purpose  of 
drawing  more  cloth  out  of  him.  Mukamba  took  it  in 
good  part,  and  did  not  insist  on  getting  more. 

Our  second  evening  at  Mukamba's,  Susi,  the  Doctors 
servant,  got  gloriously  drunk,  through  the  chief's  liberal 
and  profuse  gifts  of  pombe.  Just  at  dawn  next  morn- 
ing I  was  awakened  by  hearing  several  sharp,  crack- 
like sounds.  I  listened,  and  I  found  the  noise  was 
in  our  hut.  It  was  caused  by  the  Doctor,  who,  towards 
midnight,  had  felt  some  one  come  and  lie  down  by  his 
side  on  the  same  bed,  and,  thinking  that  it  was  me,  he 
had  kindly  made  room,  and  laid  down  on  the  edge  of 
the  bed.  But  in  the  morning,  feeling  rather  cold,  he 
had  been  thoroughly  awakened,  and,  on  rising  on  his 
elbow  to  see  who  his  bed-fellow  was,  he  discovered,  to 
his  great  astonishment,  that  it  was  no  other  than 
his  black  servant,  Susi,  who  taking  possession  of  his 
blankets,  and  folding  them  about  himself  most 
selfishly,  was  occupying  almost  the  whole  bed.  The 
Doctor,  with  that  gentleness  characteristic  of  him, 
instead  of  taking  a  rod,  had  contented  himself  with 
slapping  Susi  on  the  back,  saying,  "  Get  up,  Susi, 
will  you  ?  You  are  in  my  bed.  How  dare  you,  sir, 
get  drunk  in  this  way,  after  I  have  told  you  so  often 


Deo.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANGANIKA.  499 

not  to  ?  Get  up.  You  won't  ?  Take  that,  and  that, 
and  that."  Still  Susi  slept  and  grunted  ;  so  the  slapping 
continued,  until  even  Susi's  thick  hide  began  to  feel  it, 
and  he  was  thoroughly  awakened  to  the  sense  of  his 
want  of  devotion  and  sympathy  for  his  master  in  the 
usurping  of  even  his  master's  bed.  Susi  looked  very 
much  crestfallen  after  this  expose  of  his  infirmity  before 
the  "little  master,"  as  I  was  called. 


SUSI,  THE  8EBVANT  OF  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  next  day  at  dusk — Mukamba  having  come  to 
bid  us  good-bye,  and  requested  that  as  soon  as  we 
reached  his  brother  Euhinga,  whose  country  was  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  we  would  send  our  canoe  back  for 
him,  and  that  in  the  meanwhile  we  should  leave  two  of 
our  men  with  him,  with  their  guns,  to  help  defend  him 
in  case  Warumashanya  should  attack  him  as  soon  as  we 
were  gone — we  embarked  and  pulled  across.    In  nine 


600 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


hours  we  had  arrived  at  the  head  of  the  lake  in 
Mugihewa,  the  country  of  Ruhinga,  Mukamba's  elder 
brother.  In  looking  back  to  where  we  had  come  from 
we  perceived  that  we  had  made  a  diagonal  cut  across 
from  south-east  to  north-west,  instead  of  having  made  a 
direct  east  and  west  course ;  or,  in  other  words,  from 
Mugere — which  was  at  least  ten  miles  from  the  north- 
ernmost point  of  the  eastern  shore — we  had  come  to 
Mugihewa,  situated  at  the  northernmost  point  of  the 
western  shore.  Had  we  continued  along  the  eastern 
shore,  and  so  round  the  northern  side  of  the  lake,  we 
should  have  passed  by  Mukanigi,  the  country  of  Waru- 
mashanya,  and  Usumbura  of  Simveh,  his  ally  and  friend. 
But  by  making  a  diagonal  course,  as  just  described,  we 
had  arrived  at  the  extreme  head  of  the  lake  without 
any  difficulty. 

The  country  in  which  we  now  found  ourselves,  Mugi- 
hewa, is  situated  in  the  delta  of  the  Rusizi  River.  It 
is  an  extremely  flat  country,  the  highest  part  of  which 
is  not  ten  feet  above  the  lake,  with  numerous  depres- 
sions in  it  overgrown  with  the  rankest  of  matete- 
grass  and  the  tallest  of  papyrus,  and  pond-like  hollows, 
filled  with  stagnant  water,  which  emit  malaria  whole- 
sals.  Large  herds  of  cattle  are  reared  on  it ;  for  where 
the  ground  is  not  covered  with  marshy  plants  it  pro- 
duces rich,  sweet  grass.  The  sheep  and  goats,  espe- 
cially the  former,  are  always  in  good  condition ;  and 
though  they  are  not  to  be  compared  with  English  or 
American  sheep,  they  are  the  finest  I  have  seen  in 
Africa.  Numerous  villages  are  seen  on  this  land, 
because  the  intervening  spaces  are  not  occupied  with 
the  rank  and  luxuriant  jungle  common  in  other  parts 
©f  Africa.  Were  it  not  for  the  Euphorbia  kolquall  of 
Abyssinia — which  some  chief  has  caused  to  be  planted 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  T AN  O  AN  IK  A.  501 


as  a  defence  round  the  villages — one  might  see  from 
one  end  of  Mugihewa  to  the  other.  The  waters  along 
the  head  of  the  lake,  from  the  western  to  the  eastern 
shores,  swarm  with  crocodiles.  From  the  banks,  I 
counted  ten  heads  of  crocodiles,  and  the  Rusizi,  we  were 
told,  was  full  of  them. 

Ruhinga,  who  came  to  see  us  soon  after  we  had 
taken  up  our  quarters  in  his  village,  was  a  most  amiable 
man,  who  always  contrived  to  see  something  that  ex- 
cited his  risibility ;  though  older  by  five  or  six  years 
perhaps — he  said  he  was  a  hundred  years  old — than 
Mukamba,  he  was  not  half  so  dignified,  nor  regarded 
with  so  much  admiration  by  his  people  as  his  younger 
brother.  Ruhinga  had  a  better  knowledge,  however, 
of  the  country  than  Mukamba,  and  an  admirable 
memory,  and  was  able  to  impart  his  knowledge  of  the 
country  intelligently.  After  he  had  done  the  honours 
as  chief  to  us — presented  us  with  an  ox  and  a  sheep, 
milk  and  honey — we  were  not  backward  in  endeavour- 
ing to  elicit  as  much  information  as  possible  out  of  him. 

The  summary  of  the  information  derived  from  Ru- 
hinga may  be  stated  as  follows  : 

The  country  bordering  the  head  of  the  lake  from 
Urundi  proper,  on  the  eastern  shore,  to  Uvira  on 
the  western,  is  divided  into  the  following  districts: 
1st.  Mugere,  governed  by  Mukamba,  through  which 
issued  into  the  lake  the  small  rivers  of  Mugere  and 
Mpanda.  2nd.  Mukanigi,  governed  by  Warumash- 
anya,  which  occupied  the  whole  of  the  north-eastern 
head  of  the  lake,  through  which  issued  into  the  lake 
the  small  rivers  of  Karindwa  and  Mugera  wa  Kanigi. 
3rd.  On  the  eastern  half  of  the  district,  at  the  head  of 
the  lake,  was  Usumbura,  governed  by  Simveh,  ally 
and  friend  of  Warumashanya,  extending  to  the  eastern 


602 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


bank  of  the  Rusizi.  4th.  Commencing  from  the 
western  bank  of  the  Rusizi,  to  the  extreme  north- 
western head  of  the  lake,  was  Mugihewa — Ruhinga's 
country.  5th.  From  Uvira  on  the  west,  running  north 
past  Mugihewa,  and  overlapping  it  on  the  north 
side  as  far  as  the  hills  of  Chamati,  was  Ruwenga, 
also  a  country  governed  by  Mukamba.  Beyond 
Ruwenga,  from  the  hills  of  Chamati  to  the  Ruanda 
River,  was  the  country  of  Chamati.  West  of  Ruwenga, 
comprising  all  the  mountains  for  two  days'  journey  in 
that  direction,  was  Uashi.  These  are  the  smaller  sub- 
divisions of  what  is  commonly  known  as  Ruwenga 
and  Usige.  Ruwenga  comprises  the  countries  of  Ru- 
wenga and  Mugihewa ;  Usige,  the  countries  of  Usum- 
bura,  Mukanigi,  and  Mugere.  But  all  these  countries 
are  only  part  and  parcel  of  Urundi,  which  comprises 
all  that  country  bordering  the  lake  from  Mshala  River, 
on  the  eastern  shore,  to  Uvira,  on  the  western,  extend- 
ing over  ten  days'  journey  direct  north  from  the  head 
of  the  lake,  and  one  month  in  a  north-eastern  direction 
to  Murukuko,  the  capital  of  Mwezi,  Sultan  of  all 
Urundi.  Direct  north  of  Urundi  is  Ruanda;  also  a 
very  large  country. 

The  Rusizi  River  —  according  to  Ruhinga  —  rose 
near  a  lake  called  Kivo,  which  he  said  is  as  long  as 
from  Mugihawa  to  Mugere,  and  as  broad  as  from 
Mugihawa  to  Warumashanya's  country,  or,  say 
eighteen  miles  in  length  by  about  eight  in  breadth. 
The  lake  is  surrounded  by  mountains  on  the  western 
and  northern  sides :  on  the  south-western  side  of  one 
of  these  mountains  issues  the  Rusizi — at  first  a  small 
rapid  stream ;  but  as  it  proceeds  towards  the  lake  it 
receives  the  rivers  Kagunissi,  Kaburan,  Mohira,  Nyam- 
agana,   Nyakagunda,   Ruviro,    Rofubu  Kavimvira, 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


503 


Myove,  Ruhuha,  Mukindu,  Sange,  Rubirizi,  Kiriba, 
and,  lastly,  the  Ruanda  River,  which  seems  to  be  the 
largest  of  them  all.  Kivo  Lake  is  so  called  from  the 
country  in  which  it  is  situated.  On  one  side  is  Mu- 
tumbi  (probably  the  Utumbi  of  Speke  and  Baker),  on 
the  west  is  Ruanda;  on  the  east  is  Urundi.  The 
name  of  the  chief  of  Kivo  is  Kwansibura. 

After  so  many  minute  details  about  the  River 
Rusizi,  it  onlv  remained  for  us  to  see  it.  On  the 
second  morning  of  our  arrival  at  Mugihewa  we 
mustered  ten  strong  paddlers,  and  set  out  to  explore  the 
head  of  the  lake  and  the  mouth  of  the  Rusizi.  We 
found  that  the  northern  head  of  the  lake  was  indented 
with  seven  broad  bays,  each  from  one  and  a  half  to  three 
miles  broad ;  that  long  broad  spits  of  sand,  overgrown 
with  matete,  separated  each  bay  from  the  other.  The 
first,  starting  from  west  to  east,  at  the  broadest  part,  to 
the  extreme  southern  point  of  Mugihewa,  was  about 
three  miles  broad,  and  served  as  a  line  of  demarcation 
between  Mukamba's  district  of  Ruwenga  and  Mugihewa 
of  Ruhinga  ;  it  was  also  two  miles  deep.  The  second 
bay  was  a  mile  from  the  southern  extremity  of  Mugi- 
hewa to  Ruhinga's  village  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  and 
:t  was  a  mile  across  to  another  spit  of  sand  which  was 
terminated  by  a  small  island.  The  third  bay  stretched 
for  nearly  a  mile  to  a  long  spit,  at  the  end  of 
which  was  another  island,  one  and  a  quarter  mile  in 
length,  and  was  the  western  side  of  the  fourth  bay,  at 
the  head  of  which  was  the  delta  of  the  Rusizi.  This 
fourth  bay,  at  its  base,  was  about  three  miles  in  depth, 
and  penetrated  half  a  mile  further  inland  than  any 
other.  Soundings  indicated  six  feet  deep,  and  the 
same  depth  was  kept  to  within  a  few  hundred  yards 
of  the  principal  mouth  of  the  Rusizi.     The  current 


504 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


was  very  sluggish ;  not  more  than  a  mile  an  hour. 
Though  we  constantly  kept  our  binocular  searching 
for  the  river,  we  could  not  see  the  main  channel  until 
within  200  yards  of  it,  and  then  only  by  watching  by 
what  outlet  the  fishing  cauoes  came  out.  The  bay  at 
this  point  had  narrowed  from  two  miles  to  about 
200  yards  in  breadth.  Inviting  a  canoe  to  show  us 
the  way,  a  small  flotilla  of  canoes  preceded  us,  from 
the  sheer  curiosity  of  their  owners.  We  followed,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  were  ascending  the  stream,  which  was 
very  rapid,  though  but  about  ten  yards  wide,  and  very 
shallow  ;  not  more  than  two  feet  deep.  We  ascended 
about  half  a  mile,  the  current  being  very  strong,  from 
six  to  eight  miles  an  hour,  and  quite  far  enough  to 
observe  the  nature  of  the  stream  at  its  embouchure.  We 
could  see  that  it  widened  and  spread  out  in  a  myriad  of 
channels,  rushing  by  isolated  clumps  of  sedge  and  matete 
grass ;  and  that  it  had  the  appearance  of  a  swamp.  We 
had  ascended  the  central,  or  main  channel.  The  western 
channel  was  about  eight  yards  broad.  We  observed,  after 
we  had  returned  to  the  bay,  that  the  easternmost  channel 
was  about  six  yards  broad,  and  about  ten  feet  deep,  but 
very  sluggish.  We  had  thus  examined  each  of  its 
three  mouths,  and  settled  all  doubts  as  to  the  Rusizi 
being  an  effluent  or  influent.  It  was  not  necessary  to 
ascend  higher,  there  being  nothing  about  the  river  itself 
to  repay  exploration  of  it. 

The  question,  "  Was  the  Rusizi  an  effluent  or  an 
influent  ?"  was  answered  for  ever.  There  was  now 
no  doubt  any  more  on  that  point.  In  size  it  was 
not  to  be  compared  with  the  Malagarazi  River, 
neither  is  it,  or  can  it  be,  navigable  for  anything 
but  the  smallest  canoes.  The  only  thing  remarkable 
about  it  is  that   it  abounds  in  crocodiles,  but  not 


Dec.  1871.]      OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


505 


one  hippopotamus  was  seen ;  which  may  be  taken 
as  another  evidence  of  its  shallowness.  The  bays 
to  the  east  of  the  Rusizi  are  of  the  same  conforma- 
tion as  those  on  the  west.  Carefully  judging  from 
the  width  of  the  several  bays  from  point  to  point,  and 
of  the  several  spits  which  separate  them,  the  breadth  of 
the  lake  may  be  said  to  be  about  twelve  or  fourteen 
miles.  Had  we  contented  ourselves  with  simply  looking 
at  the  conformation,  and  the  meeting  of  the  eastern  and 
western  ranges,  we  should  have  said  that  the  lake 
ended  in  a  point,  as  Captain  Speke  has  sketched  it  on 
his  map.  But  its  exploration  dissolved  that  idea. 
Chamati  Hill  is  the  extreme  northern  termination  of 
the  western  range,  and  seems,  upon  a  superficial  ex- 
amination, to  abut  against  the  Ramata  mountains  of 
the  eastern  range,  which  are  opposite  Chamati ;  but  a 
valley  about  a  mile  in  breadth  separates  the  two  ranges, 
and  through  this  valley  the  Rusizi  flows  towards  the 
lake.  Though  Chamati  terminates  the  western  range, 
the  eastern  range  continues  for  miles  beyond,  north- 
westerly. After  its  issue  from  this  broad  gorge,  the 
Rusizi  runs  seemingly  in  a  broad  and  mighty  stream, 
through  a  wide  alluvial  plain,  its  own  formation,  in  a 
hundred  channels,  until,  approaching  the  lake,  it  flows 
into  it  by  three  channels  only,  as  above  described. 

I  should  not  omit  to  state  here,  that  though  the 
Doctor  and  I  have  had  to  contend  against  the  strong 
current  of  the  Rusizi  River,  as  it  flowed  swift  and 
strong  into  the  Tanganika,  the  Doctor  still  adheres  to 
the  conviction  that,  whatever  part  the  Rusizi  plays, 
there  must  be  an  outlet  to  the  Tanganika  somewhere, 
from  the  fact  that  all  fresh-water  lakes  have  outlets. 
The  Doctor  is  able  to  state  his  opinions  and  reasons  far 
better  than  I  can  for  him ;  and,  lest  I  misconstrue  the 


506 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


subject,  I  shall  leave  it  until  he  has  an  opportunity  tc 
explain  them  himself;  which  his  great  knowledge  of 
Africa  will  enable  him  to  do  with  advantage. 

One  thing  is  evident  to  me,  and  I  believe  to  the 
Doctor,  that  Sir  Samuel  Baker  will  have  to  curtail  the 
Albert  N'Yanza  by  one,  if  not  two  degrees  of  latitude. 
That  well-known  traveller  has  drawn  his  lake  far 
into  the  territory  of  the  Warundi,  while  Ruanda  has 
been  placed  on  the  eastern  side ;  whereas  a  large  portion 
of  it,  if  not  all,  should  be  placed  north  of  what  he  has 
designated  on  his  map  as  Usige.  The  information  of 
such  an  intelligent  man  as  Ruhinga  is  not  to  be 
despised ;  for,  if  Lake  Albert  came  within  a  hundred 
miles  of  the  Tanganika,  he  would  surely  have  heard  of 
its  existence,  even  if  he  had  not  seen  it  himself.  Originally 
he  came  from  Mutumbi,  and  he  has  travelled  from  that 
country  into  Mugihewa,  the  district  he  now  governs, 
He  has  seen  Mwezi,  the  great  King  of  Urundi,  and 
describes  him  as  a  man  about  forty  years  old,  and  as  a 
very  good  man. 

Our  work  was  now  done ;  there  was  nothing  more  to 
detain  us  at  Mugihewa.  Ruhinga  had  been  exceedingly 
kind,  and  given  us  one  ox  after  another  to  butcher 
and  eat.  Mukamba  had  done  the  same.  Their  women 
had  supplied  us  with  an  abundance  of  milk  and  butter, 
and  we  had  now  bounteous  supplies  of  both. 

The  Doctor  had  taken  a  series  of  observations  for 
latitude  and  longitude  ;  and  Mugihewa  was  made  out 
to  be  in  3°  19;  S.  latitude. 

On  the  7th  December,  early  in  the  morning,  we  left 
Mugihewa,  and  rowing  past  the  southern  extremity 
of  the  Katangara  Islands,  we  approached  the  highlands 
of  Uashi,  near  the  boundary  line  between  Mukamba's 
country  and  Uvira.    The  boundary  line  is  supposed 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANGANIKA.  507 

to  be  a  wide  ravine,  in  the  depths  of  which  is  a 
grove  of  tall,  beautiful,  and  straight-stemmed  trees, 
out  of  which  the  natives  make  their  canoes. 

Passing  Kanyamabengu  River,  which  issues  into  the 
lake  close  to  the  market-ground  of  Kirabula,  the  ex- 
treme point  of  Burton  and  Speke's  explorations  of  the 
Tanganika,  we  steered  south  along  the  western  shore  of 
the  lake  for  half  an  hour  longer  to  Kavimba,  where  we 
halted  to  cook  breakfast. 

The  village  where  lived  Mruta,  the  King  of  Uvira, 
was  in  sight  of  our  encampment,  and  as  we  observed 
parties  of  men  ascending  and  descending  the  mountains 
much  more  often  than  we  thought  augured  good  to  our- 
selves, we  determined  to  continue  on  our  course  south. 
Besides,  there  was  a  party  of  disconsolate-looking 
Wajiji  here,  who  had  been  plundered  only  a  few  days 
before  our  arrival,  for  attempting,  as  the  W&vira 
believed,  to  evade  the  honga  payment.  Such  facts  as 
these,  and  our  knowledge  of  the  general  state  of  in- 
security in  the  country,  resulting  from  the  many  wars 
in  which  the  districts  of  the  Tanganika  were  engaged, 
determined  us  not  to  halt  at  Kavimba. 

We  embarked  quickly  in  our  boat  before  the  Wavira 
had  collected  themselves,  and  headed  south  against  a 
strong  gale,  which  came  driving  down  on  us  from  the 
south-west.  After  a  hard  pull  of  about  two  hours 
in  the  teeth  of  the  storm,  which  was  rapidly  rising, 
we  pointed  the  head  of  the  boat  into  a  little  quiet  cove, 
almost  hidden  in  tall  reeds,  and  disembarked  for  the 
night. 

Cognizant  of  the  dangers  which  surrounded  us, 
knowing  that  savage  and  implacable  man  was  the 
worst  enemy  we  had  to  fear,  we  employed  our  utmost 
energies  in  the  construction  of  a  stout  fence  of  thorn 


608 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


bushes,  and  then  sat  down  to  supper  after  our  work  was 
done,  and  turned  in  to  sleep  ;  but  not  before  we  had 
posted  watchmen  to  guard  our  canoe,  lest  the  daring 
thieves  of  Uvira  might  abstract  it,  in  which  case  we 
should  have  been  in  a  pretty  plight,  and  in  most  un- 
enviable distress. 

At  daybreak,  leaving  Kukumba  Point  after  our 
humble  breakfast  of  coffee,  cheese,  and  dourra  cakes  was 
despatched,  we  steered  south  once  more.  Our  fires  had 
attracted  the  notice  of  the  sharp-eyed  and  suspicious 
fishermen  of  Kukumba  ;  but  our  precautions  and  the 
vigilant  watch  we  had  set  before  retiring,  had  proved 
an  effectual  safeguard  against  the  Kivira  thieves. 

The  western  shores  of  the  lake  as  we  proceeded 
were  loftier,  and  more  bold  than  the  wooded  heights  of 
Urundi  and  bearded  knolls  of  Ujiji.  A  back  ridge — 
the  vanguard  of  the  mountains  which  rise  beyond — 
disclosed  itself  between  the  serrated  tops  of  the  front 
line  of  mountains,  which  rose  to  a  height  of  from  2,500 
to  3,000  feet  above  the  lake.  Within  the  folds  of  the 
front  line  of  mountains  rise  isolated  hills  of  considerable 
magnitude,  precipitous  and  abrupt,  but  scenically  very 
picturesque.  The  greater  part  of  these  hills  have  the 
rounded  and  smooth  top,  or  are  tabularly  summited. 
The  ridge  enfolding  these  hil]s  shoots  out,  at  intervals, 
promontorial  projections  of  gradual  sloping  outlines, 
which  on  the  map  I  have  designated  capes,  or  points. 
When  rounding  these  points,  up  went  our  compasses  for 
the  taking  of  bearings,  and  observing  the  directions  of  all 
prominent  objects  of  interest.  Often  these  capes  are 
formed  by  the  alluvial  plains,  through  which  we  may 
be  sure  a  river  will  be  found  flowing.  These  pretty 
alluvial  plains,  enfolded  on  the  south,  the  west,  and  the 
north  by  a  grand  mountain  arc,  present  most  luxurious 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  TEE  TANG  AN  IK  A.  509 


and  enchanting  scenery.  The  vegetation  seems  to  be 
of  spontaneous  growth.  Groups  of  the  Elaeis  Guinensis 
palm  embowering  some  dun-brown  village ;  an  array 
of  majestic,  superb  growth  of  mvule  trees;  a  broad 
extent  covered  with  vivid  green  sorghum  stalks; 
parachute-like  tops  of  mimosa ;  a  line  of  white  sand, 
on  which  native  canoes  are  drawn  far  above  the 
reach  of  the  plangent,  uneasy  surf ;  fishermen  idly 
reclining  in  the  shade  of  a  tree  ; — these  are  the  scenes 
which  reveal  themselves  to  us  as  we  voyage  in  our  canoe 
on  the  Tanganika.  When  wearied  with  the  romance 
of  wild  tropic  scenes  such  as  these,  we  have  but  to  lift 
our  eyes  to  the  great  mountain  tops  looming  darkly 
and  grandly  on  our  right ;  to  watch  the  light  pencilling 
of  the  cirrus,  brushing  their  summits,  as  it  is  drifted 
towards  the  north  by  the  rising  wind:  to  watch 
the  changing  forms  which  the  clouds  assume,  from 
the  fleecy  horizontal  bars  of  the  cirrus,  to  the  denser, 
gloomier  cumulus,  prognosticator  of  storm  and  rain, 
which  soon  settles  into  a  portentous  group — Alps  above 
Alps,  one  above  another — and  we  know  the  storm 
which  was  brewing  is  at  hand,  and  that  it  is  time  to 
seek  shelter. 

Passing  Muikamba,  we  saw  several  groves  of  the 
tall  mvule  tree.  As  far  as  Bemba  the  Wabembe 
occupy  the  mountain  summits,  while  the  Wavira  culti- 
vate the  alluvial  plains  along  the  base  and  lower  slopes 
of  the  mountain.  At  Bemba  we  halted  to  take  in 
pieces  of  pipe-clay,  in  accordance  with  the  superstition 
of  the  Wajiji,  who  thought  us  certain  of  safe  passage 
and  good  fortune  if  we  complied  with  the  ancient 
custom. 

Passing  Ngovi,  we  came  to  a  deep  bend,  which 
curved  off  to  Cape  Kabogi  at  the  distance  of  ten  miles. 


610 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


About  two-thirds  of  the  way  we  arrived  at  a  group  of 
islets,  three  in  number,  all  very  steep  and  rocky ;  the 
largest  about  300  feet  in  length  at  the  base,  and  about 
200  feet  in  breadth.  Here  we  made  preparations 
to  halt  for  the  night.  The  inhabitants  of  the  island 
were  a  gorgeously-feathered  old  cock,  which  was  kept 
as  a  propitiatory  offering  to  the  spirit  of  the  island,  a 
sickly,  yellow-looking  thrush,  a  hammer-headed  stork, 
and  two  fish-hawks,  who,  finding  we  had  taken  posses- 
sion of  what  had  been  religiously  reserved  for  them, 
took  flight  to  the  most  western  island,  where  from 
their  perches  they  continued  to  eye  us  most  solemnly. 

As  these  islands  were  with  difficulty  pronounced  by 
us  as  Kavunvweh,  the  Doctor,  seeing  that  they  were 
the  only  objects  we  were  likely  to  discover,  named 
them  the  "  New  York  Herald  Islets and,  in  confirma- 
tion of  the  new  designation  given  them,  shook  hands 
with  me  upon  it.  Careful  dead-reckoning  settled  them 
to  be  in  lat.  3°  41'  S. 

The  summit  of  the  largest  island  was  well  adapted 
to  take  bearings,  and  we  improved  the  opportunity,  as 
most  extensive  views  of  the  broad  and  lengthy  lake 
and  surrounding  lines  of  imposing  mountains  were 
attainable.  The  Ramata  Hills  were  clearly  visible,  and 
bore  N.N.E.  from  it ;  Katanga  Cape,  S.E.  by  S.  ; 
Sentakeyi,  E.S.E. ;  Magala,  E.  by  N. ;  south-western 
point  of  Muzimu  bore  S.,  northern  point  of  Muzimu 
island,  S.S.E. 

At  dawn  on  the  9th  December  we  prepared  to 
resume  our  voyage.  Once  or  twice  in  the  night  we  had 
been  visited  by  fishermen,  but  our  anxious  watchful- 
ness prevented  any  marauding.  It  seemed  to  me,  how- 
ever, that  the  people  of  the  opposite  shore,  who  were 
our  visitors,  were  eagerly  watching  an  opportunity  to 


Pkc.  1871.]      OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


511 


pounce  upon  our  canoe,  or  take  us  bodily  for  a  prey  ;  and 
our  men  were  considerably  affected  by  these  thoughts, 
if  we  may  judge  from  the  hearty  good-will  with  which 
they  rowed  away  from  our  late  encampment. 

Arriving  at  Cape  Kabogi,  we  came  to  the  territory 
of  the  Wasansi.  We  knew  we  were  abreast  of  a  dif- 
ferent tribe  by  the  greeting  "  Moholo,"  which  a  group 
of  fishermen  gave  us ;  as  that  of  the  Wavira  was 
M  Wake,"  like  that  of  Urundi,  Usige,  and  Uhha. 

We  soon  sighted  Cape  Luvumba — a  sloping  projec- 
tion of  a  mountain  ridge  which  shot  far  into  the  lake. 
As  a  storm  was  brewing,  we  steered  for  a  snug  little 
cove  that  appeared  before  a  village  ;  and,  drawing  our 
canoe  from  the  water,  began  to  set  the  tent,  and  make 
other  preparations  for  passing  the  night. 

As  the  natives  appeared  quiet  and  civil  enough,  we 
saw  no  reason  to  suspect  that  they  entertained  any 
hostility  to  Arabs  and  Wangwana.  Accordingly  we 
had  our  breakfast  cooked,  and  as  usual  laid  down  for 
an  afternoon  nap.  I  soon  fell  asleep,  and  was  dreaming 
away  in  my  tent,  in  happy  oblivion  of  the  strife  and 
contention  that  had  risen  since  I  had  gone  to  sleep, 
when  I  heard  a  voice  hailing  me  with,  "  Master, 
master !  get  up,  quick.  Here  is  a  fight  going  to 
begin!"  I  sprang  up,  and  snatching  my  revolver  belt 
from  the  gun-stand,  walked  outside.  Surely,  there 
appeared  to  be  considerable  animus  between  the  several 
factions ;  between  a  noisy,  vindictive-looking  set  of 
natives  of  the  one  part,  and  our  people  of  the  other 
part.  Seven  or  eight  of  our  people  had  taken  refuge 
behind  the  canoe,  and  had  their  loaded  guns  half 
pointing  at  the  passionate  mob,  which  was  momentarily 
increasing  in  numbers,  but  I  could  not  see  the  Doctor 
anywhere. 


512 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


"  Where  is  the  Doctor  ?"  I  asked. 
"  He  has  gone  over  that  hill,  sir,  with  his  compass," 
said  Selira. 

"  Anybody  with  him  ?" 
"  Susi  and  Chumah." 

"  You,  Bombay,  send  two  men  off  to  warn  the  Doctor, 
and  tell  him  to  hurry  up  here." 

But  just  at  this  period  the  Doctor  and  his  two  men 
appeared  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  looking  down  in  a 
most  complacent  manner  upon  the  serio-comic  scene 
that  the  little  basin  wherein  we  were  encamped  pre- 
sented. For,  indeed,  despite  the  serious  aspect  of  it, 
there  was  much  that  was  comical  blended  with  it — in 
a  naked  young  man  who — perfectly  drunk,  barely  able 
to  stand  on  his  feet — was  beating  the  ground  with  his 
only  loin-cloth,  screaming  and  storming  away  like  a 
madman  ;  declaring  by  this,  and  by  that,  in  his  own 
choice  language,  that  no  Mgwana  or  Arab  should  halt 
one  moment  on  the  sacred  soil  of  Usansi.  His  father, 
the  Sultan,  was  as  inebriated  as  himself,  though  not 
quite  so  violent  in  his  behaviour. 

In  the  meantime  the  Doctor  arrived  upon  the  scene, 
and  Selim  had  slipped  my  Winchester  rifle,  with  the 
magazine  full  of  cartridges,  into  my  hand.  The  Doctor 
calmly  asked  what  was  the  matter,  and  was  answered 
by  the  Wajiji  guides  that  the  people  wished  us  to  leave, 
as  they  were  on  hostile  terms  with  the  Arabs,  because 
the  eldest  son  of  the  Sultan  of  Muzimu,  the  large  island 
nearly  opposite,  had  been  beaten  to  death  by  a  Baluch, 
named  Khamis,  at  Ujiji,  because  the  young  fellow  had 
dared  look  into  his  harem,  and  ever  since  peace  had 
been  broken  between  the  Wasansi  and  Arabs. 

After  consulting  with  the  guides,  the  Doctor  and  I 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  were  better  that  we 


Deo.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  TEE  TAXGAXIKA. 


;13 


should  endeavour  to  pacify  the  Sultan  by  a  present, 
rather  than  take  offence  at  a  drunken  boy's  extravagant 
freak.  In  his  insane  fury  he  had  attempted  to  slash  at 
one  of  my  men  with  a  billhook  he  carried.  This  had 
been  taken  as  a  declaration  of  hostilities,  and  the  soldiers 
were  ready  enough  to  engage  in  war ;  but  there  was  no 
necessity  to  commence  fighting  with  a  drunken  mob, 
who  could  have  been  cleared  off  the  ground  with  our 
revolvers  alone  had  we  desired  it. 

The  Doctor,  baring  his  arm,  said  to  them  that  he  was 
not  a  Mgwana,  or  an  Arab,  but  a  white  man ;  that 
Arabs  aud  Wangwana  had  no  such  color  as  we  had. 
We  were  white  men,  different  people  altogether  from 
those  whom  they  were  accustomed  to  see ;  that  no 
black  men  had  ever  suffered  injury  from  white  men. 
This  seemed  to  produce  great  effect,  for  after  a  little 
gentle  persuasion  the  drunken  youth,  and  his  no  less 
inebriate  sire,  were  induced  to  sit  down  to  talk  quietly. 
In  their  conversation  with  us,  they  frequently  referred 
to  Mombo,  the  son  of  Kisesa,  Sultan  of  Muzimu,  who 
was  brutally  murdered.  "  Yes,  brutally  murdered !" 
they  exclaimed  several  times,  in  their  own  tongue ; 
illustrating,  by  a  faithful  pantomime,  how  the  unfor- 
tunate youth  had  died. 

Livingstone  continued  talking  with  them  in  a  mild, 
paternal  way,  and  their  loud  protestations  against  Arab 
cruelty  were  about  to  subside,  when  the  old  Sultan 
suddenly  rose  up  and  began  to  pace  about  in  an  excited 
manner,  and  in  one  of  his  perambulations  deliberately 
slashed  his  leg  with  the  sharp  blade  of  his  spear,  and 
then  exclaimed  that  the  Wangwana  had  wounded  him ! 

At  this  cry  one  half  of  the  mob  hastily  took  to  flight, 
but  one  old  woman,  who  carried  a  strong  staff  with  a 
carved  lizard's  body  on  its  top,  commenced  to  abuse  the 

2  L 


514 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


chief  with  all  the  power  of  her  voluble  tongue,  charging 
him  with  a  desire  to  have  them  all  killed,  and  other 
women  joined  in  with  her  in  advising  him  to  be  quiet, 
and  accept  the  present  we  were  willing  to  give. 

But  it  was  evident  that  there  was  little  needed 
to  cause  all  men  present  in  that  little  hollow  to  begin  a 
most  sanguinary  strife.  The  gentle,  patient  bearing  of 
the  Doctor  had  more  effect  than  anything  else  in 
making  all  forbear  bloodshed,  while  there  was  left  the 
least  chance  of  an  amicable  settlement,  and  in  the  end 
it  prevailed.  The  Sultan  and  his  son  were  both  sent 
on  their  way  rejoicing. 

While  the  Doctor  conversed  with  them,  and  en- 
deavoured to  calm  their  fierce  passions,  I  had  the  tent 
struck,  and  the  canoes  launched,  and  the  baggage  stowed, 
and  when  the  negotiations  had  concluded  amicably,  I 
begged  the  Doctor  to  jump  into  the  boat,  as  this 
apparent  peace  was  simply  a  lull  before  a  storm ; 
besides,  said  I,  there  are  two  or  three  cowardly  creatures 
in  the  boat,  who,  in  case  of  another  disturbance,  would 
not  scruple  to  leave  both  of  us  here. 

From  Cape  Luvumba,  about  4*30  p.m.,  we  commenced 
pulling  across ;  at  8  p.m.  we  were  abreast  of  Cape 
Panza,  the  northern  extremity  of  the  island  of  Muzimu ; 
at  6  a.m.  we  were  southward  of  Bikari,  and  pulling  for 
Mukungu,inUrundi,at  which  place  we  arrived  at  10  a.m., 
having  been  seventeen  hours  and  a  half  in  crossing  the 
lake,  which,  computing  at  two  miles  an  hour,  may  be 
said  to  be  thirty-five  miles  direct  breadth,  and  a  little 
more  than  forty-three  miles  from  Cape  Luvumba. 

On  the  11th  of  December,  after  seven  hours'  pulling, 
we  arrived  at  picturesque  Zassi  again  ;  on  the  12th,  at 
the  pretty  cove  of  Niasanga;  and  at  11  a.m.  we  had 
rounded  past  Bangwe,  and  Ujiji  was  before  us. 


Deo.  1871.]       OUR  CRUISE  ON  THE  TANG  AN  IK  A. 


516 


We  entered  the  port  very  quietly,  without  the  usual 
firing  of  guns,  as  we  were  short  of  powder  and  ball, 
As  we  landed,  our  soldiers  and  the  Arab  magnates  came 
to  the  water's  edge  to  greet  us. 

Mabruki  had  a  rich  budget  to  relate  to  us,  of  what 
had  occurred  during  our  absence.  This  faithful  man, 
left  behind  in  charge  of  Livingstone's  house,  had  done 
most  excellently.  Kalulu  had  scalded  himself,  and 
had  a  frightful  raw  sore  on  his  chest  in  consequence. 
Mabruki  had  locked  up  Marora  in  chains  for  wounding 
one  of  the  asses.  Bilali,  the  stuttering  coward,  a  bully 
of  women,  had  caused  a  tumult  in  the  market-place, 
and  had  been  sharply  belaboured  with  the  stick  by 
Mabruki.  And,  above  all  most  welcome,  was  a  letter  I 
received  from  the  American  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  dated 
June  11th,  containing  telegrams  from  Paris  as  late  as 
April  22nd  of  the  same  year !  Poor  Livingstone 
exclaimed,  "  And  I  have  none.  What  a  pleasant  thing 
it  is  to  have  a  real  and  good  friend !" 

Our  voyage  on  the  Tanganika  had  lasted  twenty- 
eight  days,  during  which  time  we  had  traversed  over 
300  miles  of  water. 


UJIJI  COW,  UNYAMWEZI  COW,  PARIAH  DOG,  AND  FAT-TAILED  SHEEP. 

CHAPTER  XI Y. 

GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS. 

(Second  Series.) 

Let  us  now  relate,  in  a  chapter  specially  devoted  to 
them,  what  new  geographical  and  ethnographical  facts 
we  have  discovered  since  we  left  Uyanzi,  or  Magunda 
Mkali,  concerning  the  countries  of  Unyamwezi,  Uko- 
nongo,  Ukawendi,  Uvinza,  Uhha,  Ukaranga,  Ujiji, 
Urundi,  Usowa,  Ukaramba,  Ugoma,  Uguhha,  Rua, 
and  Manyuema. 

The  first  country  for  our  consideration  is  U-nya- 
mwezi,  which  might  be  pronounced,  according  to  the 
natives,  Oo-nya-mwezi.  I  beg  to  differ  from  all 
preceding  writers  as  to  the  exact  meaning  of  the  word. 
Messrs.  Krapf  and  Rebman,  to  whom  the  world  is  in- 
debted for  first  rousing  its  curiosity  respecting  the 
interior  of  East  Africa,  translate  the  word  U-nya-mwezi 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  517 


into  "  Country  of  the  Moon  " — U  being  always  a  prefix 
for  "  country,"  nya  meaning  "  of,"  and  mwezi,  "  moon." 
The  erudite  Capt.  Burton  seems  inclined  to  the  same 
opinion  ;  while  Speke  unhesitatingly  adopts  the  same 
interpretation.  With  all  due  deference  to  the  more 
mature  knowledge  of  Africa  which  these  gentlemen 
possess  over  me,  I  would  suggest  to  thost  interested  in 
the  discussion  of  nice  topics,  such  as  these,  that  a  Kisa- 
wahili  definition  has  been  given  to  a  Kinyamwezi  word. 
In  the  Kisawahili  language,  if  it  were  a  country  of  the 
moon,  it  would  be  called  Umwezi.  Unyamwezi  is  a 
Kinyamwezi  word,  and  cannot  be  interpreted,  from  the 
accidental  similarity  of  the  last  two  syllables,  with  the 
well-known  Kisawahili  word  mwezi,  which  means 
moon.  If  we  take  the  Kisawahili  standard  for  in- 
terpreting the  word  U-nya-mwezi,  we  might  just  as 
well  accept  the  other  meaning  of  the  last  two  syllables 
mwezi,  which  mean  thief,  as  well  as  moon,  in  the 
Kisawahili  language. 

Capt.  Burton  says  that  Mr.  Desborough  Cooky 
prefers  "  lord  of  the  world "  for  the  meaning  of  the 
word  Unyamwezi,  which  he  spells  "  Monomoezi."  I 
prefer  Mr.  Cooley's  interpretation  to  Capt.  Burton's, 
yet  I  beg  to  differ  with  Mr.  Cooley  also  in  the  precise 
translation.  80  far  as  I  could  ascertain  from  the 
Wanyamwezi,  and  Arabs  learned  in  the  lore  of  the 
country,  there  once  lived  a  king  of  Ukalaganza — which 
is  the  original  name  of  the  country,  and  by  which  name 
alone  the  western  tribes  know  it — whose  name  was 
Mwezi,  who  ruled  over  all  the  land  from  Uyanzi  to 
U vinza.  He  was  the  greatest  king  then  known  ;  none 
could  stand  before  him  in  the  battle,  none  ever  reigned 
so  wisely  as  he.  But,  after  this  great  king's  death,  his 
sons  fought  among  themselves  for  the  possession  of  the 


518 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


supreme  power ;  and  in  the  several  wars  which  followed, 
in  the  course  of  time,  the  districts  which  the  sons  had 
gained  became  known  only  by  their  distinctive  names, 
as  distinguished  from  the  central  and  greater  portion  of 
the  country,  which  still  retained  its  old  designation  of 
TJkalaganza.  But  the  people  who  occupied  Ukalaganza, 
and  who  recognized  the  heir  appointed  by  old  Mwezi, 
the  king,  came  to  be  known  by-and-by  as  children  of 
Mwezi,  and  the  country  as  Unyamwezi ;  and  the  other 
districts  as  Konongo,  Sagozi,  Gunda,  Simbiri,  &c. 
To  support  this  theory,  based  upon  the  tradition  related 
to  me  by  the  old  chief  of  Masangi,  which  lies  on  the 
road  to  Mfuto,  I  will  state  that  the  name  of  the  present 
king  of  Urundi  is  Mwezi ;  and  it  is  notorious  that  the 
name  of  almost  every  village  in  Africa  is  simply 
derived  from  some  ruler,  either  living  or  dead.  In- 
stances : — The  village  of  Misonghi  is  known  from 
Kwihara  to  Bagamoyo  as  Kadetamare,  the  name  of 
the  chief ;  Capt.  Burton  can  confirm  this  fact  himself, 
having  placed  it  on  his  map  as  Kadetamare.  The 
district  of  Nyambwa,  in  Ugogo,  is  fast  losing  its  old 
title,  and  is  more  extensively  known  as  Pembera 
Pereh,  which  is  the  name  of  the  decrepit  old  Sultan  of 
Nyambwa.  Mrera,  in  Ukonongo,  is  the  name  of  the 
chief,  while  the  ancient  designation  of  the  district  was 
Kasera.  "  Mbogo,"  or  "  Buffalo,"  has  also  given  his 
name  to  a  large  and  populous  district  in  Ukonongo  ; 
then  there  is  Pumburu,  the  name  of  a  neighbouring 
chief  to  Mapunda,  of  Usowa.  Uganda  is  fast  giving 
way  to  the  famous  name  of  King  Mtesa ;  and,  in  a  few 
years,  a  decade  perhaps,  future  travellers  will  hear 
from  the  Arabs  of  the  great  country  called  Unyamtesa, 
or  Umtesa.  No ;  I  decidedly  object  to  having  Unya- 
mwezi interpreted  into  the  poetic  "  Land  of  the  Moon/ 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  51S 


or  the  ill-meaning  "  Land  of  the  Thief."  Unyamwezi 
simply  means  the  Land  of  Mwezi. 

Also  do  I  differ  most  positively  with  Capt.  Burton, 
if  he  supposes  that  "  Nimeamaye,"  the  country  said  to 
be  sixty  days  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  by  the  Dutch 
historian  Dapper,  can  be  Unyamwezi.  A  man  travelling 
on  horseback  could  not  accomplish  the  distance  from 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  Unyamwezi,  even  in  1671 — two 
hundred  years  ago — when  the  country  extended  to 
within  ten  days  of  the  Tanganika  Lake,  in  sixty  days  ; 
but  a  native  unencumbered  with  a  load  might  possibly 
reach  Manyuema  in  that  time  ;  and  "  Nimeamaye  "  is 
probably  a  corruption,  caused  by  misapprehending  the 
correct  sound  of  Manyuema,  or  "  Manyuemaye." 

At  the  present  day  Unyamwezi  extends  from  east  to 
west  a  rectilineal  distance  of  about  145  miles ;  that 
is,  from  the  River  Ngwhalah,  between  Mgongo  Tembo 
and  Madedita,  in  E.  long.  34°,  to  Usenye,  E.  long. 
31°  25',  which  is  considered  the  western  extremity  of 
Ukalaganza,  or  Unyamwezi ;  and  from  north  to  south, 
from  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Victoria  N'Yanza, 
in  S.  lat.  3°  51',  to  Gombe  River,  S.  lat.  5°  40',  a 
distance  of  149  geographical  miles,  comprising  a  square 
area  of  more  than  24,500  miles. 

This  large  area  is  divided  into  several  districts,  such 
as  Unyanyembe,  Usagari,  Ugunda,  Ugara,  Nguru, 
Msalala,  Usongo,  Khokoro,  Usimbiri,  Nasangaro, 
Ugoro,  &c. ;  of  which  Unyanyembe  is  the  most 
important  in  Unyamwezi,  both  from  its  central  position 
and  populousness.  The  people  north  of  Unyanyembe 
are  known  as  the  Wasukuma,  and  those  to  the  south  as 
Watakama.  The  latter  term  is  seldom  used  in  Unyan- 
yembe, though  often  by  the  Wasukuma. 

Taken  altogether,  Unyamwezi  may  be  said  to  be  the 


520 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


finest  country  in  the  whole  of  East  and  Central  Africa. 
It  is  one  grand  rolling  table-land,  with  a  gentle  western 
trend  towards  the  Tanganika,  which  drains  the  greater 
part  of  it.  If  one  were  to  take  a  bird's-eye  view  of  it 
he  would  see  forests,  a  purple-colored  carpet  of  leafage, 
broken  here  and  there  by  naked  plains  and  clearings, 
stretching  to  all  points  of  the  horizon,  with  now  and 
then  dark  heaving  masses  of  rocky  hill,  rising  like 
blunted  cones  above  the  gentle  undulations,  which 
rise  and  subside  over  and  beyond  the  horizon,  like 
the  heavy,  exhausted  waves  of  an  ocean  after  a  storm. 
Stand  upon  any  coign  of  vantage  you  like,  on  the 
height  of  some  of  those  great  Titanic  boulders  of 
syenite  which  crop  up  above  the  crest  of  the  hills  around 
Mgongo  Tembo,  or  the  rocky  humps  of  Ngaraiso,  and 
you  will  behold  a  scene  the  like  of  which  you  never 
saw  before.  They  are  no  grand  mountains,  or  sublime 
heights ;  there  is  no  picturesqueness  about  it — you 
would  call  it  prosaic,  monotonous,  perhaps,  for  you  will 
have  witnessed  the  same  scene  a  hundred  times  before 
you  will  have  arrived  in  Uyanzi ;  but  in  this  excessive 
monotony  there  is  sublimity.  The  ocean,  churned  into 
foam  and  wild  waves,  is  sublime ;  the  ocean,  slumbering 
under  the  equatorial  sun,  reflecting  the  deep  blue  of  the 
firmament — extending  without  a  ruffle  you  know  not  how 
far — is  sublime ;  and  so  is  there  sublimity  in  this  view 
of  the  great,  the  infinite,  apparently  endless  extent  of 
forests  in  Unyamwezi.  The  foliage  is  of  all  the  colors 
of  the  prism ;  but  as  the  woods  roll  away  into  the 
distance  the  calm,  mysterious  haze  enwraps  them  in 
its  soft  shroud ;  paints  them  first  a  light  blue,  then 
gradually  a  deeper  blue,  until,  in  the  distance,  there 
appears  but  a  dim  looming ;  and  on  gazing  at  its  faded 
contour  we  find  ourselves  falling  into  a  day-dream,  as 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  521 


indistinct  in  its  outline  as  the  view  which  appears  on 
the  horizon.  I  defy  any  one  to  gaze  on  such  a  scene 
long  without  wishing  that  his  life  would  fade  away  as 
serenely  as  the  outlines  of  the  forests  in  Unyarnwezi. 

We  found  a  species  of  pisolitic  limestone  in  the 
maritime  region  ;  schist  and  syenite  in  alternate  lines 
in  Ugogo  ;  but  in  Unyarnwezi  the  enormous  smooth 
sheets  which  have  appeared  with  bare  humps  in  Uyanzi 
loom  up  into  solid  hills — great  disintegrated  fragments 
and  craggy  ridges,  softened,  of  course,  by  the  wealth  of 
vegetation,  which  hides  the  rough  and  uneven  lines 
from  human  view. 

There  are  only  two  rivers  worthy  of  the  name  in 
Unyarnwezi,  and  those  are  the  Northern  and  the 
Southern  Gombe.  The  northern  river,  under  the  name 
of  Kwala,  sometimes  called  Wallah,  rises  south  of 
Rubuga,  and  after  sweeping  with  a  north-westerly  curve, 
enters  the  Gombe  north  of  Tabora — even  here  a  stream 
of  some  magnitude  and  importance.  With  good  lighi 
boats  in  the  latter  part  of  the  rainy  season,  a  man 
might  easily — eight  miles  or  so  from  Tabora — embark 
his  people,  and  float  down  happily  enough  to  the 
Tanganika  Lake ;  provided,  of  course,  that  all  the 
tribes  were  willing.  A  properly-equipped  expedition 
might  work  wonders  in  this  way. 

The  Nghwhalah  River — known  to  rise  north  of 
Kusuri,  intersecting  the  Unyanyembe  path  frequently, 
as  one  may  see  as  he  proceeds  towards  Tura — a  few 
miles  east  of  Madedita  takes  its  steady  course  south- 
west, and  passing  through  Nguru,  comes  into  view 
again  in  Manyara,  and  is  then  known  as  the  Southern 
Gombe,  but  which  has  a  current  only  during  the  very 
height  of  the  rainy  season.  From  Manyara  it  runs 
across  Ugala  country  in  a  north-by-west  direction  ;  and 


522 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


before  its  junction  with  the  Malagarazi  it  receives  the 
streams  of  Mrera  and  Mtambu,  which,  after  skirting 
the  eastern  base  of  the  Kusawa  Mountains,  glide  north- 
easterly across  the  park  lands  of  Uvenda  to  the 
Gombe. 

All  other  streams,  which  are  few  in  Unyamwezi,  and 
of  no  importance,  discharge  their  waters  into  either  the 
Northern  or  Southern  Gombe.  The  water  is  gene- 
rally supplied  by  large  pools,  or  in  deep,  lengthy 
hollows,  which,  in  India,  would  be  called  nullahs,  but, 
with  Americans,  gullies.  Where  nullahs  and  pools 
fail,  pits  are  dug,  by  which  a  pale,  milky  kind  of  water 
is  obtained.  This  color  of  the  water,  to  a  native  of 
Unyamwezi,  is  considered  by  him  to  be  a  sure  sign  of 
its  goodness ;  and  he  is  apt  to  evince  his  admiration 
of  its  qualities,  if  he  is  asked  whether  the  water  is 
good,  by  the  fervent  expression,  "  0  miope  sana " — 
%  Oh,  it  is  quite  white ;"  by  which,  of  course,  you  must 
understand  that  it  is  very  good,  if  very  white. 

The  productions  of  the  forests  of  Unyamwezi,  as  well 
as  those  of  Ukonongo  and  Uvinza,  are  similar  to  those 
of  Uyanzi ;  and,  indeed,  such  as  are  common  to  all 
the  tree-clad  uplands  under  or  near  the  equator. 

The  most  gigantic  tree  found  between  Uyanzi  and  the 
Tanganika  is  the  mtamba — sycamore,  which  is  equal  in 
size  to  the  mighty  baobabs  of  Ugogo.  It  produces  a 
kind  of  pleasant  fig,  which,  when  ripe,  is  eaten  readily 
by  the  natives.  But  these  sycamores  are  few  and  far 
between.  Other  trees  frequent  in  the  forests  are  known 
by  the  Kisawahili  terms — mtundu,  miombo,  mkora, 
mkurongo,  mbembu,  mvule,  mtogwe,  msundurusi, 
mninga,  mbugu,  matonga. 

The  natives  have  ingeniously  found  uses  for  all  of 
them.    The  imbite  forms  rafters,  as  beautiful  as  cedar 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  523 


capable  of  being  carved  ornamentally.  It  also  forms 
doors  and  carved  pillars,  which  range  along  the 
veranda.  It  emits  quite  an  agreeable  perfume,  and 
its  dark-reddish  mahogany-like  lines  of  red  and  pale 
yellow  are  very  pretty  and  rich-looking. 

The  mkora  is  a  fine  large  tree,  growing  into  stately 
proportions  in  the  forests  of  Ugunda  and  some  parts 
of  Ukonongo,  out  of  which  the  natives  carve  most 
laboriously  the  kiti,  or  stool,  in  such  frequent  use  with 
the  elders  and  chiefs  throughout  Africa  ;  as  well  as 
their  huge  mortars,  in  which  the  dourra,  or  sorghum, 
grain,  and  Indian  corn  is  pounded  into  flour. 

The  mkurongo  is  the  tree  out  of  which  the  pole 
which  the  natives  use  as  a  pestle  throughout  Central 
Africa  for  the  pounding  of  the  grain  is  made.  It  is 
harder  and  more  durable  than  hickory,  and,  when 
polished,  has  a  whitish  glistening  appearance. 

The  mbugu  supplies  the  soft  useful  bark  which  is 
used  by  the  natives  to  make  cloth.  The  bark,  after 
being  well  soaked,  is  pounded,  and,  after  some  drying 
and  rubbing,  presents  the  appearance  of  a  thick  loose 
felt.  Rope  is  also  sometimes  made  of  it,  but  more  fre- 
quently it  is  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  kirindos, 
or  round  boxes,  like  primitive  band-boxes,  which  are 
painted  and  ornamented  with  a  composition  of  various 
clays.  These  kirindos  are  sometimes  very  gigantic, 
and  are  used  to  store  grain,  supported  above  the  ground, 
out  of  the  reach  of  white  ants,  by  a  strong  structure 
of  logs.  The  bark  of  the  mbugu  forms  admirable  sheds, 
and  is  often  used  to  form  a  kitanda,  or  a  rude  bed- 
stead, by  the  fathers  of  families  and  luxuriously-inclined 
youths.  It  is  out  of  the  bark  of  this  tree  that  the 
Warori  dwelling  on  the  Rufiji  construct  their  bark 
canoes. 


624 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  mvule  tree  is  that  out  of  which  the  lake  tribes 
form  their  canoes.  The  largest  canoes  on  the  Tanga- 
nika  are  considerably  over  sixty  feet  long.  The  tree 
attains  its  greatest  size  in  the  ravines  of  Ugoma, 
opposite  Ujiji,  on  the  western  shore.  Uvira,  Urundi, 
and  Usowa  also  possess  very  many  fine  specimens  of 
it.  It  is  a  great  work  of  labor,  the  cutting  down  of 
these  trees,  and  the  excavating  of  the  enormous  logs  into 
canoes.  It  requires  over  three  months'  labor  before  the 
canoe  may  be  said  to  be  ready  for  launching.  During  the 
excavation  of  the  huge  log  the  owner  makes  a  series  of 
fires,  out  of  the  chips,  along  the  upper  side  of  it,  and  his 
neighbors  are  called  to  assist  him  in  the  work  for  a  trifle 
of  grain  or  palm  oil.  When  the  canoe  is  ready  for 
launching,  he  brews  several  pots  of  pombe,  and  invites 
all  his  neighbors  to  push  it  into  the  sea ;  and,  after 
a  spurt,  they  regale  themselves  with  the  native  beer 
frequently,  and  again  set  about  their  work  with  renewed 
strength  and  vociferous  shouting.  A  large  canoe  may 
be  bought  with  one  hundred  and  twenty  doti  of  cloth, 
or,  say,  a  75-lb.  bale  ;  but  the  Arabs,  or  the  Wajiji,  when 
they  proceed  to  purchase  a  canoe,  generally  take  with 
them  an  assortment  of  goods,  such  as  a  dozen  pots  of 
palm  oil,  a  dozen  goats,  a  number  of  various  cloths 
several  hoes,  and  a  number  of  bags  of  salt  and  grain,  by 
which  the  purchase  is  made  with  profit. 

The  other  trees  which  the  Central  African  forests 
produce  are  the  kolquall,  or  candelabra  tree ;  the  msun- 
durusi,  or  copal-tree,  frequent  in  Ukawendi ;  the  moumbo, 
or  palmyra ;  the  miombo ;  the  beautiful  and  fragrant 
mimosa  ;  the  mtundu  ;  and  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Tanga- 
nika  is  seen  the  beautiful  Guinea  palm  tree,  called 
mchikichi,  and  the  plantain  tree. 

The  palm  oil  is  extracted  from  the  fruit  of  the  palm 


&E0 GRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  626 


tree,  which  hangs  pendent,  somewhat  like  the  date. 
This  is  pounded  and  boiled,  and,  when  allowed  to  cool, 
the  oil  is  collected  into  great  earthen  pots,  which  will 
contain  from  two  to  five  gallons.  Four  yards  of  cloth, 
or  a  doti,  will  purchase  one  of  the  largest  pots  full  of 
palm  oil,  which  in  appearance  is  like  soft,  yellow, 
ochre-coloured  butter.  The  Wajiji  and  others  use  the 
oil  for  cooking  frequently. 

Out  of  the  same  tree,  the  Guinea  palm,  is  extracted 
an  intoxicating  liquor,  called  tembo,  which  is  a  far 
more  agreeable  drink  than  the  pombe,  or  beer. 

Plantains  are  abundant  also  in  all  the  villages 
bordering  the  lake.  The  toddy  called  "  zogga "  is 
made  by  pounding  the  plantains  in  the  huge  wooden 
mortar  wherein  the  various  grains  are  also  converted 
into  flour. 

The  cactaceous  and  aloetic  plants  are  visible  all  over 
the  country,  but  in  the  arid  plains  of  Ugogo  and 
Southern  Uvinza  more  especially. 

The  tamarind  trees  are  frequent  throughout  the 
forests,  but  they  attain  their  greatest  growth  in  Usa- 
gara,  and  west  of  Unyanyembe.  Their  fruit  forms  a 
grateful  acidified  beverage  when  steeped  in  water. 

The  tamarisks  and  the  several  species  of  acacia 
deserve  notice,  if  one  had  only  space.  The  latter  grow 
everywhere,  and  are  a  sore  trouble  to  a  caravan,  on 
account  of  their  wide-spreading  branches.  The  thorn 
trees  and  gums  are  among  the  most  obnoxious  to 
travellers.  The  former  species  bristle  with  all  kinds  of 
hurtful  thorns.  One  of  the  "  wait-a-bit "  kind  caught 
Selim,  my  interpreter,  by  the  neck  one  day  when  riding 
while  sick  with  dysentery,  and  tore  an  ugly  wound  in 
the  neck  in  alarming  proximity  to  the  jugular  vein,  the 
mark  of  which  he  will  carry  to  his  dying  day. 


526 


HOW  7  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Among  the  fruit-bearing  kind  of  trees  are  the 
mbembu,  or  wood  peach  ;  the  matonga,  or  mix  vomica ; 
the  tamarind  ;  the  sing- we,  or  wood  plum  ;  the  mtogwe, 
or  wood  apple ;  and  in  Ukawendi  there  are  numerous 
varieties  of  grapes.  But  there  are  scores  of  species, 
some  of  which  are  dangerous,  and  others  innocuous, 
which  are  indigenous  to  the  soil,  whose  names  or  pro- 
perties I  could  not  obtain. 

Among  the  fruit-trees  planted  and  carefully  nourished 
by  the  Arabs  of  Unyanyembe  in  their  gardens  are  the 
papaw,  guava,  lime,  citron,  pomegranate,  mango,  ba- 
nana, orange. 

The  principal  food  of  the  several  tribes  dwelling  in 
Unyamwezi  and  the  countries  west  as  far  as  Lake 
Tanganika  consists  of  matama  (Kisawahili),  or  dourra 
(Arabic),  or  jowar  (Hindostanee),  the  Linnaean  title  of 
which  is  the  Holcus  sorghum ;  bajri  (Holcus  spicatus) ; 
millet  (Panicum  italicum)  ;  maweri,  or  sesame ;  maize,  or 
Indian  corn.  The  pulse  kinds  are  numerous,  but  the 
vetch,  the  field  and  large  garden  beans  are  most  common. 
Rice  is  plentiful  in  Unyanyembe  and  Ujiji ;  wheat  is 
grown  by  the  Arabs  only. 

Sweet  potatoes,  yams,  and  manioc  are  abundant  in 
Unyanyembe  and  Ujiji,  and  in  some  parts  of  Ukawendi. 
Sugar-cane  flourishes  at  Ujiji. 

There  is  only  one  harvest,  which  takes  place  in  April 
on  the  Tanganika,  in  May  in  Unyamwezi,  and  in  June 
in  the  maritime  region. 

Cotton,  tobacco,  and  the  castor-oil  plant  are  grown 
everywhere  throughout  the  central  regions.  Grourds 
and  cucumbers  are  also  numerous  and  plentiful.  Indigo 
grows  wild. 

Among  the  shrubs,  plants,  and  grasses  indigenous  to 
Central  Africa  may  be  mentioned  the  wild  thyme  and 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  52? 

sage,  the  holly  and  sunflower,  bird-pepper,  chilies, 
ginger,  turmeric,  the  oleander,  gloriosa  superba  (near 
the  Tanganika)  ;  the  poppy-flower  (grows  wild  in  the 
neighborhood  of  villages  in  Ukawendi),  as  also  wild 
mustard  and  curry.  But  in  the  great  forests  bordering 
the  lake  may  be  seen  a  hundred  varieties  of  flowering 
shrubs,  exhaling  an  exquisitely  sweet  fragrance.  Among 
the  grasses  are  the  hawk-weed,  ox-eye,  the  grass  known 
as  bhota  in  India,  and  whitlow,  besides  scores  of  rank 
species,  such  as  the  tiger  and  spear  grass. 

The  lotus,  water,  and  leafless  lilies  may  be  seen 
in  the  still  G-ombe  lakes,  and  in  the  pools  of  Uka- 
wendi. 

Papyrus  and  the  matete  cane  margin  all  the  un- 
inhabited spots  on  the  alluvial  plains  on  the  shores  of 
the  Tanganika.  The  eschinomenae,  or  the  pith  tree, 
may  be  seen  at  the  mouths  of  all  the  large  rivers  issu- 
ing into  this  lake. 

As  the  limits  to  which  I  am  necessarily  restricted  in 
a  chapter  such  as  this  prevent  my  entering  into  a 
detailed  zoological  account  of  the  species  of  animals 
and  birds  of  Central  Africa,  my  readers  will  perhaps 
pardon  me  if  I  am  brief. 

I  shall  commence  with  the  quadrumanous  order,  as 
the  most  highly  organized  of  the  brute  species. 

The  largest  of  this  kind  is  what  is  known  as  the 
Wanderoo  baboon.  It  is  distinguished  for  its  great 
size  and  leonine  aspect.  From  a  distance  it  resembles 
a  small  lion,  and  its  hoarse  hollow  roar  in  the  dense  forests 
of  Ukawendi  serves  not  a  little  to  heighten  the  illusion. 
A  long  greyish  mane  surrounds  the  head  and  covers 
the  neck.  The  hair  on  its  back  is  of  a  dark  grey,  mixed 
with  light  brown.  The  tail  is  long,  and  ends  in  a  tuft 
It  dwells  in  the  hollows  of  large  trees  and  in  caves. 


528 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


This  was  the  kind  we  saw  near  the  source*  of  the 
Kugufu,  but  on  some  of  the  feeders  of  the  same  river 
further  west  we  saw  large  numbers  of  this  baboon,  of 
a  true  tawny  color. 

After  this  comes  the  immense  dog-faced  baboon,  a 
description  of  which  I  have  given  in  the  preceding 
chapter.  There  are  other  and  smaller  species  found  in 
Ukawendi  and  Western  Ukonongo,  with  black  faces, 
similar  to  the  tota  of  Abyssinia.  They  are  exceedingly 
active,  and  good  climbers.  They  lead  a  gregarious 
life,  and  feed  on  wild  berries,  mbembu,  or  wood  peach, 
and  insects. 

The  larger  feline  animals  which  we  saw  were  the 
lion  and  the  leopard,  in  the  forests  of  Ukawendi.  The 
hide  of  the  lion  becomes  the  property  of  the  Sultan. 
The  lion  inhabits  the  dark  thick  belts  of  timber  which 
border  the  streams,  and  wherever  game  is  found  in  the 
park  lands  this  proud  beast  is  also  sure  to  be  found. 

The  cry  of  the  spotted  cyn-hyaena  was  heard  almost 
every  night  on  our  journey  throughout  Africa,  especially 
in  Utanda  and  Ugogo.  This  animal  is  as  large  as  a 
mastiff,  with  a  most  powerful  head,  indicating  great 
strength  of  jaw.  Its  color  is  a  dirty  tawny  mixed  with 
grey,  and  with  black  spots  that  seem  faded.  Its  ears 
are  large  and  thick,  spotted  with  black.  The  dental 
system  is  similar  to  that  of  a  dog,  but  the  hyaena  has 
three  false  molars  in  the  upper  row,  and  four  in  the 
lower.  Their  teeth  are  armed  with  formidable  cutting 
points,  which  enable  them  to  crush  the  largest  bones. 

The  jackals  we  met  were  similar  to  our  prairie 
coyotes,  aiid  their  cries  had  the  same  sharp  yelping 
tones.  They  are  similar  to  foxes  in  their  muzzles,  and 
have  thick  bushy  tails.    Their  color  is  of  a  dark  grey. 

Other  animals  which  we  met  were  elephants,  rhino- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  529 


ceroses,  the  camelopard,  or  the  giraffe,  the  zebra,  the 
hartebeest,  the  eland,  the  buffalo,  spring-bok,  pallah, 
or  water  buck,  the  sable  antelope,  the  brindled  gnu, 
the  reddish  and  lead-colored  hog  and  wild  boar,  the 
hyrax,  or  coney,  the  kudu  {Ant.  strepsiceros),  the  tiny 
perpusilla,  or  blue-buck,  and  scores  of  the  reit-bok, 
or  red -buck  (A.  Eliotragus).  ■  As  I  have  already 
described  them,  it  is  unnecessary  to  repeat  my  observa- 
tions. I  may  mention  here  that  I  have  seen  numbers 
of  prairie  dogs,  or  ground  squirrels,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Eugufu  or  the  Gombe.  Of  the  hippopotami  and  croco- 
diles we  saw  numbers,  in  the  Kingani,  the  Gombe,  and 
the  Malagarazi  Rivers,  and  the  Lake  Tanganika. 

The  domesticated  animals  are  such  as  are  common 
to  all  countries.  The  oxen  are  of  two  kinds;  that 
which  we  saw  in  Ugogo,  Unyanyembe,  and  Uhha,  was 
distinguished  by  a  hump  between  the  shoulders,  such  as 
has  the  American  bison.  The  other  kind,  which  we  saw 
in  Ujiji  only,  was  distinguished  by  long  legs,  thin  body, 
and  enormously  long  horns. 

Sheep  are  common  with  all  tribes,  and  are  distin- 
guished by  broad,  fat,  heavy  tails.  Goats  are  numerous, 
and  of  various  colors.  But  the  finest  goats  in  Africa 
are  those  of  Manyuema,  which  are  short-legged  and 
stout-bodied. 

The  asses,  great  numbers  of  which  are  found  in 
Ubanarama,  are  strong  and  large,  but  vicious  and  wild. 

Dogs  are  numerous,  and  are  seen  in  every  village. 
They  are  of  the  true  pariah  breed,  and  are  a  cowardly 
and  mangy  set. 

Tame  cats  are  also  frequent  in  every  village,  and 
they  must  have  a  fine  time  of  it,  as  the  rats  infest  every 
house,  hut,  and  tembe. 

The  teathered  race  is  very  numerous  in  Central 

2  M 


530 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Africa.  The  most  common  of  the  birds  which  we  saw 
were  fish-eagles,  bustards,  kites,  vultures,  white-necked 
crows,  turtledoves,  ortolans,  saddle-billed  storks,  on  the 
Gombe,  the  Mpokwa,  and  the  Rugufu  :  the  ibis  nigra, 
the  ibis  religiosa,  toucans,  wild  geese  (armed  with  spurs 
on  their  wings),  wild  ducks,  black  Madagascar  ducks, 
and  gulls  on  the  Tanganika :  paddy  birds,  thrushes, 
hammer-headed  storks,  pelicans,  lead-colored  and  tuft- 
headed  cranes,  divers,  kingfishers,  and  Egyptian  geese, 
eared  grebes,  terns,  guinea-fowl,  quail,  ptarmigan,  and 
florican.  I  also  saw  some  ostriches  in  Ugogo  ;  swans 
on  Lake  Ugombo  ;  snipe  and  wagtails  on  the  Tanganika, 
near  the  Rusizi  River  ;  besides  great  and  little  owls,  bats, 
barbets,  and  the  balaenceps  and  sand-pipers.  Others  which 
I  recognized  were  hoopoes,  parrots,  jays,  wrens,  red- 
wings, golden  fly-catchers,  and  the  little  egrets.  This, 
as  you  may  see,  is  far  too  long  a  list  to  enter  into  any 
description  of  the  several  species. 

Among  the  reptiles  we  met  were  a  long  green  snake, 
the  boa,  and  a  little  silver-backed  snake.  Rock  lizards 
were  innumerable ;  tortoise,  iguanas,  the  gymnopus, 
toads,  frogs,  and  terrapin  were  also  met  with. 

The  insects  seen  principally  were  the  common  house 
flies,  mosquitoes,  fleas,  lice,  tsetse,  horse  and  gadflies, 
enormous  beetles,  dragon-flies,  tarantulas,  garden  and 
house  spiders,  yellow  scorpions,  centipedes,  niyriapedes, 
caterpillars,  pismires,  white,  red,  and  black  ants. 

The  fishes  of  the  Tanganika  are  of  great  variety. 

(1.)  The  first  is  the  silurus,  called  by  the  Wajiji  singa, 
which  grows,  according  to  native  report,  to  four,  and  even 
six  feet  in  length.  The  one  I  sketched  was  384  inches 
long,  and  weighed  101  lbs.  in  weight,  but  was  considered 
to  be  a  small  one.  It  is  an  extremely  fat  fish,  of  a 
dark-brown  color  on  the  back,  and  light  brown,  nclined 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  531 

to  whiteness,  on  the  belly.  This  fish  is  scaleless.  It  is 
the  same  kind  which  we  find  in  the  pools  and  rivers. 
It  is  caught  in  the  Gombe  River  by  hundreds,  is  cut 
up  and  dried,  and  carried  into  Unyanyembe  for  sale 
to  the  Arabs,  the  Mohamrnedanized  negroes,  and 
Wasawahili. 

(2.)  The  next  in  importance  and  size  is  the  sangara, 
scaled,  considered  good  for  food.  The  one  which  the 
woodcut  represents  was  23  inches  long,  and  15£  inches 
round  the  body,  and  weighed  6^  lbs. 

(3.)  Next  comes  the  mvuro,  a  thick,  fleshy  fish, 
considered  excellent  eating.  This,  also,  is  scaled.  The 
engraving  on  page  532  represents  one  18  inches  long, 
15£  inches  round  the  body,  and  weighing  5{  lbs. 

(4.)  A  scaled  fish  called  the  "  chai,"  which  I  sketched, 
was  9£  inches  long,  4  inches  round  the  body,  had  a 
greenish  tint  on  its  back,  and  was  light  underneath. 

(5.)  A  scaleless  fish,  7  inches  long,  4  inches  broad, 
marked  with  pale  inky  stripes  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
broad,  belly  white,  a  handsome  fish,  is  very  numerous 
in  the  lake,  and  large  captures  of  this  kind  are  made 
daily  by  the  fishermen  of  Ujiji. 

(6.)  Another  scaleless  fish,  6  inches  long,  with  silvered 
belly,  had  a  taste  like  trout,  and  is  a  great  favorite. 

(7.)  A  perch,  general  size  8  inches  long,  and  6  inches 
round  the  body,  Was  a  very  dry  fish,  and  seldom  pur- 
chased except  by  the  poor  classes. 

(8.)  A  short,  thick  eel,  is  a  fine-flavored  fish.  The 
one  sketched  was  17  inches  long,  and  4  inches  round 
the  body. 

The  above-mentioned  species  are  among  the  most 
important  of  the  fishes  of  the  Tanganika ;  but  there  is 
another  variety,  which,  though  the  smallest  fish,  yet 
contributes  more  than  any  other  to  the  food  of  the 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  533 


people,  and  that  is  the  minute  "  dogara,"  a  species  of 
white-bait,  which  is  caught  in  great  nets  by  the  thou- 
sand. They  are  spread  out  in  the  sun  to  dry,  or  are 
salted,  and  are  in  this  manner  exported  even  as  far  as 
Unyanyembe.  There  are  also  several  varieties  of  fish 
like  the  sardines  of  the  French  coast,  which  are  caught 
with  rod  and  line,  or  hand-nets.  The  markets  of  Ujiji 
also  expose  shrimps,  and  a  kind  of  oyster,  for  sale. 

The  metals  known  to  the  tribes  under  consideration 
are  copper  and  iron.  The  copper  is  conveyed  from  the 
coast  and  from  Eua  ;  the  wrought  iron  from  Usukuma, 
or  the  northern  states  of  Unyamwezi,  and  from  Uvira. 
All  brass  ornaments  worn  in  the  far  interior  are  manu- 
factured by  the  natives  from  the  thick  brass  wire  sold 
by  caravans.  Though  iron  ore  is  abundant — even 
cropping  above  the  ground  in  scores  of  places  between 
Unyamwezi  and  Ujiji — yet  it  is  seldom  worked  ;  though 
there  are  instances,  in  Ukonongo  and  Uvinza,  where 
the  natives  smelt  the  ore,  and  make  their  own  iron. 

The  diseases  by  which  the  natives  are  commonly 
afflicted,  west  of  Unyanyembe,  are  acute  dysentery, 
chronic  dysentery,  cholera  morbus,  remittent  fever, 
intermittent  fever,  or  ague,  typhoid  fever,  low  con- 
tinuous fever,  heart  disease,  rheumatism,  paralysis, 
small-pox,  itch,  ophthalmia,  sore  throat,  consumption, 
colic,  cutaneous  eruptions,  ulcers,  syphilis,  gonorrhea, 
convulsions,  prolapsus  ani,  umbilical  hernia,  and 
nephritis. 

But  the  great  and  terrible  scourge  of  East  and 
Central  Africa  is  the  small-pox.  The  bleached  skulls 
of  the  victims  to  this  fell  disease,  which  lie  along  every 
caravan  road,  indicate  but  too  clearly  the  havoc  it  makes 
annually,  not  only  among  the  ranks  of  the  several 
trading  expeditions,  but  also  among  the  villages  of  the 


534 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


respective  tribes.  Some  caravans  are  decimated  by  it, 
and  villages  have  been  more  than  half-depopulated. 
Dr.  Livingstone  has  saved  many  a  poor  life  in  Africa 
by  vaccination  ;  and  it  is  affliction  at  witnessing  the 
ravages  daily  made  amongst  the  people  that  has  com- 
pelled him  to  make  an  appeal  for  some  vaccine  matter 
to  be  sent  to  him. 

The  remedies  used  by  the  people  themselves  are 
simple  herbs,  or  decoctions  of  herbs,  delivered  by  the 
"waganga,"  or  medicine-men.  The  medicinal  use  of 
the  castor-oil  plant  is  not  known ;  the  oil  extracted 
from  the  seeds  is  used  only  to  smear  their  heads  and 
bodies  with.  Emetics  are  obtained  from  the  bark  of  a 
certain  tree,  and  the  Arabs  state  it  to  be  most  powerful. 
For  nephritic  diseases  the  waganga  compound  a  medi- 
cine from  the  root  of  a  plant,  and  from  the  leaves  of  a 
shrub  which  grows  near  Unyamwezi,  but  whose  name 
they  would  never  tell  me,  though  I  endeavoured  to 
purchase  it  with  a  cloth.  Though  I  have  seen  a  man  use 
it  daily  for  a  month,  I  never  observed  it  had  any  effect 
on  him.  Among  the  Arabs  the  remedy  is  gum-mastic, 
boiled  in  water,  and  a  cupful  of  the  liquid  taken  every 
evening  before  retiring,  or  a  cupful  of  new  milk  taken 
every  morning  and  evening.  For  rheumatism  the  re- 
medy is  lying  down  in  the  sun,  or  being  rubbed  briskly. 
Colic  is  supposed  to  be  cured  by  inserting  the  finger 
down  the  throat,  and  causing  vomiting.  For  dysentery, 
warm  stones  are  employed  over  the  abdomen,  and  to 
the  posterior  parts.  Patients  suffering  from  miasmatic 
fevers  fold  themselves  in  cloths,  and  lie  down  in  the  sun 
until  perspiration  ensues ;  but  I  have  seen  this  treat- 
ment terminate  with  death  among  the  men  of  my 
own  Expedition.  In  cases  of  small-pox,  quarantine  is 
rigorously  enforced,  no  one  venturing  near  the  patients 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  535 


except  those  who  have  already  suffered  from  it.  Members 
of  a  caravan  attacked  by  the  small-pox  are  excluded 
from  the  society  of  the  healthy,  and  have  special  sheds 
set  apart  for  them  outside  of  the  camp.  But  the  suc- 
ceeding caravans  contain  several  reckless  young  fellows, 
who  thoughtlessly  enter  within,  and  in  a  few  days  after- 
wards begin  to  feel  ill,  and  to  complain  of  loss  of  appe- 
tite, pains  in  the  back,  and  low  fever ;  and  before  long 
we  know  they  have  become  victims,  and  are  in  their 
turn  ostracised,  and  if  unable  to  walk  are  left  to  die, 
for  no  settlement  will  permit  them  to  approach  their 
gates,  and  a  caravan  cannot  halt  in  the  wilderness. 
When  thus  driven  from  the  face  of  man  as  one  accursed, 
he  seeks  the  jungle,  with  his  store  of  food  and  water ; 
builds  his  hut,  and  there  rests  until  his  recovery  or  death. 

Upon  leaving  the  noble  park  lands  and  forests  of 
Unyamwezi,  we  find  ourselves  in  Ukonongo,  famous  for 
its  wild  wood-peach  trees,  and  its  fine  teak-wood,  and 
its  broad  sheets  of  iron-ore,  which  crop  out  frequently 
as  we  journey  toward  the  south  and  west.  The  eastern 
part  of  Ukonongo  is  but  a  continuation  of  the  park 
land  of  Unyamwezi ;  but  as  we  approach  its  western 
frontier,  bordering  on  Ukawendi,  enormous  lumpy 
ridges  rise  prominently  into  view,  which  serve  as  a 
watershed  to  the  River  Mrera,  and  the  numerous  oozy, 
marshy  ravines  trending  towards  the  Rikwa  Plain. 

It  is  very  pretty  and  agreeable,  and,  stretching  a 
point,  we  might  say  picturesque,  the  first  view  we  get 
of  the  blue  conical  hills,  which  either  rise  singly  or  in 
triplets  above  the  far-reaching  plain  which,  so  I  was 
informed,  extends  across  the  Rungwa  River  to  the 
pastoral  lands  of  the  Southern  Watuta.  Many  of  the 
feeders  of  the  Rungwa  River  take  their  rise  just  where 
Ukonongo  and  Ukawendi  unite.    Several  rise  in  the 


536 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


district  of  Kasera.  I  have  been  informed  that  the 
Rungwa  River  is  as  large  as  the  Malagarazi,  and  that  its 
principal  source  is  in  Central  Urori.  During  the  rainy 
season  this  river  overflows  the  plain  around  it,  just 
as  the  Mukondokwa  River  inundates  the  Makata  Plain. 
Hence,  Speke,  on  his  map,  has  a  bluish  patch,  which  is 
supposed  to  represent  the  Rikwa  Lagoon  ;  but  much 
questioning  on  this  point  has  failed  to  elicit  any 
knowledge  of  it,  save  that  the  plain  is  covered  with 
water  during  the  wet  season. 

If  it  be  true  that  the  Rungwa  River  rises  in  Central 
Urori,  then  we  must  accept  the  statement  that  the 
Rufiji,  or  the  Ruhwha  River,  has  its  sources  south-west 
of  Ubena,  as  probable,  at  a  group  of  mountains  which 
may  possibly  be  the  same  whence  the  Chambezi  takes 
its  rise. 

South  of  Ukonongo  is  the  territory  of  the  Watuta ; 
south-east  are  the  districts  of  the  Warori ;  south-west 
are  Ufipa  and  Karungu ;  west  is  Ukawendi ;  north  is 
Utakama,  or  the  southern  provinces  of  Unyamwezi. 

Ukawendi  we  find  to  be  an  almost  uninhabited 
country,  with  an  irregular  surface,  forested,  well  drained 
by  myriads  of  fine  streams,  a  fertile  and  a  favored  land 
with  an  abounding  fauna  and  flora.  The  only  settle- 
ments of  any  importance  are  those  of  Mana  Msenge,  in 
the  north ;  those  of  Ngondo  and  Tongwe,  in  the  west,  on 
the  Tanganika ;  those  of  Rusawa,  in  the  centre ;  Pum- 
buru, in  the  south,  and  Utanda,  in  the  south-east. 

The  more  important  rivers  are  the  Rugufu,  which, 
rising  in  the  hilly  group  near  Pumburu,  flows  parallel 
with  the  lake  through  a  deep  valley  north,  issuing  into 
the  lake  south  of  the  Malagarazi.  The  next  is  the 
Loajeri,  which,  rising  between  Kagungu  and  Pumburu 
ranges,  issues  into  the  lake  near  the  chief  village  of 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  537 


Uriinba.  There  are  scores  of  such  rivers  as  the  Uwe- 
lasia,  Sigunga,  Mviga,  and  Kivoe. 

Ukaweudi,  ranking  third  in  size  among  the  countries 
in  the  central  region,  stretches  from  the  Malagarazi 
River,  from  about  S.  lat.  5°  10'  to  about  S.  lat.  6°  18'. 
It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Southern  Uvinza  and 
the  Malagarazi  Eiver ;  on  the  east  by  Ugara  and 
Ukonongo  ;  on  the  south  by  Usowa  and  Ufipa ;  and  on 
the  west  by  the  Tanganika  Lake. 

Proceeding  north  from  Ukawendi,  we  arrive  in 
Southern  Uvinza,  a  country  much  cut  up  by  deep 
ravines,  of  a  mountainous  and  rugged  character,  inter- 
sected in  all  directions  by  dun-colored  lines  of  naked 
ridges.  In  the  alluvial  valley  of  the  Malagarazi  are 
numerous  salt-pans,  out  of  which  the  natives  extract 
considerable  quantities  of  salt.  There  are  but  few 
streams  flowing  through  it.  Among  the  special  pro- 
ductions are  goats  and  grain. 

Crossing  the  Malagarazi,  we  come  to  a  lengthy, 
latitudinal  strip  of  poor  country,  called  Northern 
Uvinza.  The  soil  is  poor,  nourishing  but  a  sparse 
jungle  of  gums,  thorns,  tamarind,  mimosa,  and  a  few 
stunted  specimens  of  teak.  The  salt  plains  are  exten- 
sive, and  the  possession  and  exclusive  right  to  these 
are  fruitful  subjects  of  contention  between  the  two 
great  chiefs,  Lokanda  Mira  and  Xzogera. 

The  Malagarazi  at  its  head-waters  is  known  as  the 
Northern  Gombe.  As  it  flows  through  extensive 
salinas,  its  waters  have  a  slightly  saline  taste,  but  not 
disagreeably  so.  It  falls  into  the  Tanganika,  south 
of  Ujiji  Bunder.  I  believe  it  is  navigable  by  boats  all 
the  way  from  the  lake  to  Wilyankuru.  I  know  it  is 
navigable  thus  far  in  the  raioy  season. 

Northern  Uvinza  is  bounded  by  the  pastoral  country 


538 


JJOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


of  Uliha  on  the  north ;  on  the  east  by  Ukalaganza  and 
Usagozi,  or  Western  Unyamwezi ;  on  the  south  by  the 
Malagarazi ;  and  on  the  west  by  Ukaranga. 

Its  principal  settlements  are  Mpete,  Usenye,  Yambeho, 
Siala,  Isinga,  Nzogera's  Island,  and  Lokanda  Mira's 
district.  The  chief  productions  are  goats,  sheep,  grain, 
and  salt. 

From  Uvinza  we  proceed  to  Uhha.  This  latter  is 
an  immense  plain  country,  similar  in  appearance  to 
our  prairies  of  Nebraska.  It  is  known  under  the  two 
divisions,  Kimenyi  and  Antari.  Uhha,  in  its  most  exten- 
sive sense,  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Ututa,  on  the  south 
and  east  by  Uvinza,  on  the  west  by  Ukaranga  and  Ujiji. 

The  range  of  mountains  which  are  said  to  form  the 
divisional  line  between  Uhha  and  Ututa  give  birth  to 
two  streams  of  note,  the  Rusugi  and  Rugufu.  Other 
streams  are  called  Sunuzzi,  Kanengi,  and  Pombwe. 
Mostly  all  these  streams  that  run  through  Uhha  are 
slightly  brackish,  especially  the  Pombwe,  Kanengi,  and 
the  Rusugi. 

The  denuded  plains  of  Uhha  support  large  herds  of 
hump-backed  cattle  and  broad-tailed  sheep.  The  goats 
are  also  very  fine.  The  soil  is  fertile,  and  produces 
fine  crops  of  Holcus  sorghum  and  maize.  The  climate 
is  good,  and  the  heat  is  tempered  by  the  breezes  of  the 
Tanganika  and  the  winds  of  Usagara. 

The  small  lakes  or  large  pools  of  Uhha  are  a 
conspicuous  feature.  They  occupy  extensive  but 
shallow  circular  depressions,  or  basins.  Evidences  are 
not  wanting  to  prove  that  at  one  time  or  another  much 
of  Uhha  was  inundated,  and  that  the  valley  of  the 
Malagarazi  River  was  nothing  but  a  deep  arm  of  the 
Tanganika.  An  accomplished  geologist  would  find 
subjects  of  surpassing  interest  in  this  region. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  539 


Proceeding  westward,  and  crossing  the  small  stream 
Sunuzzi,  we  arrive  in  Ukaranga,  a  country  exceedingly 
diversified  in  its  character.  North,  as  it  joins  Northern 
Uhha,  it  is  mountainous ;  south,  it  is  a  lengthy  smooth 
slope,  covered  with  tall  teak  trees ;  in  the  centre  it 
consists  of  rolling  hills,  drained  by  swift,  clear  streams 
— a  fertile  and  delightful  district.  From  the  east,  a 
number  of  parallel  ridges,  all  tree-clad,  strike  out  at 
right  angles  westward  from  the  main  range  which 
separates  North-eastern  Uhha  from  Ukaranga,  and 
subside  suddenly  as  they  approach  the  alluvial  valley 
of  the  Liuche. 

The  trees  of  Ukaranga  are  principally  teak,  the 
mbugu,  and  bamboo.  The  climate  is  exceedingly  soft 
and  moist.  A  constant  drizzle  seems  to  be  pouring 
over  the  tops  of  the  Ukaranga  ridges,  whence  arise  the 
numerous  streams  that  discharge  themselves  into  the 
Liuche. 

From  the  heights  of  Ukaranga  we  descend  into  the 
Liuche  valley,  and  find  ourselves  in  Ujiji,  a  district  of 
surpassing  beauty  and  fertility,  and  come  in  view  of 
that  mighty  inland  sea  whose  shores  must  from  hence- 
forth  be  considered  sacred,  for  "  the  place  that  a  good 
man  has  trod  remains  hallowed  to  all  time."  And, 
indeed,  nature  has  assisted  us  in  the  love  which  we 
now  feel  for  the  classic  lands  bordering  the  Tanganika. 
No  man,  however  prosaic  his  nature,  can  stand  on  the 
beach  of  Ujiji,  and  look  westward  across  the  broad 
belt  of  silver  waters  at  sunset,  without  being  affected, 
in  the  innermost  recesses  of  his  heart,  at  the  display  of 
colors  which  the  sun  reveals  on  the  face  of  the  heaven 
in  which  he  is  set.  The  ethereal  colors  come  and  go 
with  the  rapidity  of  magic.  They  are  of  gold  and 
azure,  pink  and  silver,  purple  and  saffron ;  in  thin  lines 


540 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


and  broad  bars,  cirri  and  cumuli  are  transformed  into 
burnished  flaming  gold ;  they  reflect  their  refulgence 
on  the  gigantic  blue-black  barrier  which  bounds  the 
Tanganika  westward ;  they  reveal  the  whole  panorama 
of  mountains,  spread  over  them  lovely  rosy  hues,  and 
bathe  them  in  a  flood  of  silver  light. 

The  most  remarkable  tribe  in  Central  Africa  are  the 
Wanyamwezi.  A  beau-ideal  of  a  Mnyamwezi  to  me 
will  be  a  tall  long-limbed  black  man,  with  a  good- 
natured  face,  always  with  a  broad  smile  upon  it ; 
displaying  in  the  centre  of  the  upper  row  of  teeth 
a  small  hole,  which  was  cut  out  when  he  was  a  boy,  to 
denote  his  tribe ;  with  hundreds  of  long  wiry  ringlets 
hanging  down  his  neck  ;  almost  naked ;  giving  me  a 
full  view  of  a  form  which  would  make  an  excellent 
model  for  a  black  Apollo.  I  have  seen  many  of  this 
tribe  in  the  garb  of  the  freedmen  of  Zanzibar,  sporting 
a  turban  of  new  American  sheeting,  or  wearing  the 
long  dishdasheh  (shirt)  of  the  Arab,  presenting  as  fine 
and  intelligent  an  appearance  as  any  Msawahili  from  the 
Zanguebar  coast ;  but  I  cannot  rid  myself  of  my  ideal. 

A  Mnyamwezi  is  the  Yankee  of  Africa ;  he  is  a  born 
trader  and  traveller.  From  days  immemorial  his  tribe 
has  monopolized  the  carrying  of  goods  from  one 
country  to  another.  The  Mnyamwezi  is  the  camel,  the 
horse,  the  mule,  and  the  ass — the  beast  of  burden  to 
which  all  travellers  anxiously  look  to  convey  his 
luggage  from  the  coast  to  the  far  African  interior. 
The  Arab  can  go  no^viu  re  without  his  help ;  the  white 
traveller,  bound  on  an  exploring  trip,  cannot  travel 
without  him.  He  is  generally  found  in  great  numbers 
at  Bagamoyo,  Konduchi,  Kaole,  Dar  Salaam,  and  Kilwa, 
waiting  to  be  hired  for  a  long  voyage.  He  is  like  the 
sailor,  having  his  habitat  in  certain  sailors'  boarding- 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  5« 


houses  in  great  seaport  towns ;  and,  like  the  sailor,  is 
a  restless  rover.  The  sea-coast  to  a  Mnyamwezi  is  like 
New  York  to  an  English  sailor.  At  New  York  the 
English  sailor  can  re-ship  with  higher  pay,  so  can  the 
Mnyamwezi  re-hire  himself  on  the  coast,  for  a  return 
trip,  at  a  higher  rate  than  from  Unyamwezi  to  the  sea. 
He  is  in  such  demand,  and  during  war  time  so  scarce, 
that  his  pay  is  great,  ranging  from  thirty-six  yards  of 
cloth  to  one  hundred  yards.  A  hundred  of  these  human 
betes  de  somme  will  readily  cost  the  traveller  10,000  yards 
of  cloth,  even  as  far  as  Unyanyembe,  a  three  months' 
journey.  10,000  yards  of  cloth  at  Zanzibar  represent 
$5,000  in  gold.  But  with  patience  and  rigid  economy 
the  same  number  may  be  procured  for  $3,000. 

The  Wanyamwezi,  weighted  with  the  bales  of 
Zanzibar,  containing  cottons  and  domestics  from 
Massachusetts,  calicoes  from  England,  prints  from  Muscat, 
cloths  from  Cutch,  beads  from  Germany,  brass  wire 
from  Great  Britain,  may  be  found  on  the  Lualaba,  in 
the  forests  of  Ukawendi,  on  the  hills  of  Uganda,  the 
mountains  of  Karagwah,  on  the  plains  of  Urori,  on  the 
plateau  of  Ugogo,  in  the  park  lands  of  Ukonongo,  in 
the  swamps  of  Useguhha,  the  defiles  of  U sagara,  in  the 
wilderness  of  Ubena,  among  the  pastoral  tribes  of  the 
Watuta,  trudging  along  the  banks  of  the  Rufiji,  in  slave- 
trading  Kilwa — everywhere  throughout  Central  Africa. 

While  journeying  with  caravans,  they  are  docile  and 
tractable  ;  in  their  villages  they  are  a  merry-making 
set ;  on  trading  expeditions  of  their  own  they  are  keen 
and  clever  ;  as  Ruga-Ruga  they  are  unscrupulous  and 
bold  ;  in  Ukonongo  and  Ukawendi  they  are  hunters ; 
in  Usukuma  they  are  drovers  and  iron-smelters;  in 
Lunda  they  are  energetic  searchers  for  ivory ;  on  the 
coast  they  are  a  wondering  and  awe-struck  people. 


542 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  Wanyamwezi,  I  fear,  are  dying  cut,  or  they 
have  emigrated  to  distant  parts ;  but  I  base  my  first 
statement  upon  the  large  tracts  of  their  country  that 
are  desolated,  such  as  Mgongo  Tembo,  Rubuga,  Kigwa, 
Utanda,  Mfuto,  Masange,  Wilyankuru.  Such  uneasy, 
dissatisfied  spirits  as  Manwa  Sera,  Niongo,  Mirambo, 
and  Oseto  tend  by  the  constant  strife  they  are  engaged 
in  to  materially  depopulate  Unyamwezi.  The  hardships 
of  travel  on  the  gristle  of  the  race  are  not  favorable 
to  its  multiplication.  Eight  out  of  ten  of  the  bleached 
skulls  seen  along  the  paths  of  commerce  in  the  interior 
are  those  of  the  unfortunate  Wanyamwezi  who  have 
succumbed  to  the  perils  and  privations  attending  the 
footsteps  of  every  caravan.  Slavery,  with  its  abominar 
tions,  assists  in  their  demoralization  and  extermination. 
It  is  sad  to  think  that  such  people  should  perish  from 
the  earth,  as  the  warrior  race  of  the  Makololo  have, 
even  within  the  memory  of  man,  since  Livingstone  first 
sighted  Linyanti.  What  a  power  in  the  land  might 
not  a  philanthropic  government  make  of  these  people ! 
What  a  glorious  testimony  to  the  charity  of  civilization 
might  they  not  become  !  What  docile  converts  to  the 
Gospel  truths,  through  a  practical  missionary,  would 
they  not  make ! 

Great  is  the  power  of  "uganga" — medicine — in 
Unyamwezi.  I  was  reported  to  be  able  to  make  rain,  to 
be  able  to  poison  all  the  wells  in  the  country,  to  kill  all 
Mirambo's  people  with  a  medicinal  preparation,  until  I 
took  the  trouble  to  deny  all  such  power  as  was  attributed 
to  me.  At  first  they  would  bring  their  sick  to  me — the 
ulcerous,  the  syphilitic,  sufferers  from  the  itch  and  the 
small-pox,  the  consumptive,  and  those  afflicted  with 
dysentery — until  they  all  finally  became  convinced  by 
my  earnestness  that  I  could  do  nothing  for  them.  One 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  543 

old  man,  suffering  from  chronic  dysentery,  brought  me 
a  fine  fat  sheep  and  a  dish  of  choroko — vetches — for 
medicine  to  cure  his  disease.  I  might  have  taken  the 
sheep,  and  given  him  a  worthless  compound,  but  I  told 
him  at  once  that  I  could  do  nothing  for  his  sickness. 
I  gave  him,  however,  about  one  hundred  grains  of 
Dover's  powders,  and  a  couple  of  doti  of  good  cloth  to 
cover  himself  and  wife  with,  but  refused  his  sheep,  I 
/elt  so  much  for  the  man's  sufferings. 

No  hunting  expedition  of  Wanyamwezi  starts  with- 
out having  consulted  the  mganga — medicine-man — 
who,  for  a  consideration,  supplies  them  with  charms, 
potions,  herbs,  and  blessings.  A  bit  of  the  ear  of  a 
zebra,  the  blood  of  a  lion,  the  claw  of  a  leopard,  the  lip  of  . 
a  buffalo,  the  tail  of  a  giraffe,  the  eyebrow  of  a  harte- 
beest,  are  treasures  not  to  be  parted  with  save  for  a 
monetary  value.  To  their  necks  are  suspended  a  bit  of 
quartz,  polished  and  of  a  triangular  shape,  and  pieces  of 
carved  wood,  and  an  all-powerful  talisman  in  the  shape 
of  a  plant  sewn  up  jealously  in  a  small  leathern 
purse. 

The  Wanyamwezi  as  a  race  are  arrant  cowards. 
Their  caravans  steal  through  Ugogo  humbly  enough, 
but,  when  out  of  that  dreaded  country,  they  make  a 
great  blustering  show  amongst  other  tribes.  During 
war-time  in  their  country  their  custom  is  never  to 
engage  themselves  to  caravans.  Their  chiefs  discourage 
all  trading  enterprises,  and  the  commands  of  their  elders 
are  laws. 

The  system  of  government  is  an  hereditary  monarchy 
in  Unyamwezi.  The  King  is  called  Mtemi.  Except  in 
CJnyanyembe,  Usagozi,  and  Ugala,  no  chief  in  Unya- 
mwezi deserves  that  title,  though  it  is  given  by  courtesy 
to  the  chiefs  of  districts.    The  present  King  of  Unya- 


« 


544 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


nyembe  is  Mkasiwa ;  Pakalanibula  is  King  of  Ugara ; 
and  "  Moto,"  or  Fire,  of  Usagozi. 

Mkasiwa  can  raise  3,000  warriors  in  Unyanyembe 
out  of  a  population  of  nearly  20,000  people.  The 
small  districts  of  Tabora  and  Kwihara  could  alone 
supply  1,500  warriors. 

There  are  some  curious  customs  among  the  Wanya- 
mwezi.  When  a  child  is  born  the  father  cuts  the  caul, 
and  travels  with  it  to  the  frontier  of  his  district,  and 
there  deposits  it  under  the  ground ;  if  the  frontier  is 
a  stream,  he  buries  it  on  the  banks ;  then  taking  the 
root  of  a  tree,  he  conveys  it  on  his  return,  and  buries  it 
at  the  threshold  of  his  door.  He  then  invites  his  friends 
to  a  feast  which  he  has  prepared.  He  kills  an  ox,  or  half 
a  dozen  goats,  and  distributes  pombe.  If  twins  are  born, 
they  never  kill  one,  but  rather  think  it  a  greater  bless- 
ing. The  mother,  when  approaching  childbirth,  hastens 
to  the  woods,  and  is  there  attended  by  a  female  friend. 

The  marriage  ceremonies  are  similar  to  those  amongst 
the  Wagogo.  The  wife  is  purchased  from  her  father 
for  cows  or  goats,  according  to  the  means  of  the  several 
parties. 

Witchcraft,  devoted  to  evil  purposes,  is  punished 
with  death.  The  same  ceremony  in  vogue  among  the 
Wagogo,  concerning  the  detection  and  conviction  of 
miscreants,  is  similar  to  the  custom  in  Unyamwezi. 
Crimes  against  the  state  and  the  community  are  also 
punished  with  death.  A  detected  thief,  with  the  evi- 
dences of  his  guilt  on  him,  may  be  either  slaughtered 
on  the  spot,  or,  according  to  the  judgment  of  the  Mtemi, 
or  King,  become  the  slave  of  the  owner  of  the  property 
he  has  attempted  to  defraud. 

After  death,  the  Wanyamwezi  remove  the  body 
either  into  the  jungle,  or,  if  a  person  of  importance, 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  5« 


bury  it  in  a  sitting  posture,  or  on  its  side,  as  the 
Wagogo.  On  the  march  the  body  is  merely  thrown 
aside,  and  left  for  a  prey  to  the  hyaena,  the  cleanest 
scavenger  of  the  forest.  The  Sultan  is  buried  within 
the  village. 

The  Northern  Wanyamwezi  are  a  very  industrious 
people.  Their  iron  they  themselves  smelt,  and  manu- 
facture almost  all  the  hoes  from  the  Tanganika  to 
Usagara.  No  caravan  returns  from  Unyanyembe  with- 
out purchasing  hoes,  with  which  they  pay  the  return 
tribute  to  the  Wagogo.  The  iron  ware  thus  imported 
serves  for  a  multitude  of  instruments  to  the  eastern  and 
western  tribes ;  from  it  they  manufacture  their  spears, 
arrowheads,  billhooks,  and  war  hatchets.  In  Unyan- 
yembe may  be  often  seen  the  native  artizan  peddling 
his  deadly  instruments  for  cloth.  Two  yards  will  buy 
a  new  spear,  or  a  dozen  arrows  ;  four  yards  of  sheeting 
will  purchase  a  first-class  bow,  ornamented  with  brass 
and  copper  wire  ;  and  two  yards  will  purchase  a  for- 
midable-looking hatchet.  This  last  weapon,  as  may  be 
seen  from  the  illustrations  in  this  book,  is  similar  to 
that  used  by  the  Picts  in  the  stone  age,  and  by  the 
Romans  and  Egyptians  in  their  early  historical  periods, 
and  is  uniform  with  that  used  from  Bagamoyo  to  San 
Salvador — from  Nubia  to  Kaffir-land. 

The  Deity  in  Kinyamwezi  is  called  Miringu ;  in 
Kigogo  he  is  called  Mulungu ;  in  Kisawahili,  Mienzi 
Mungu.  The  Wanyamwezi  regard  him  as  the  dispenser 
of  wealth,  and  the  Creator.  He  is  seldom  entreated, 
save  for  adding  to  their  worldly  wealth.  When  death 
has  taken  away  a  member  of  the  family  in  Unyamwezi, 
it  is  said  by  the  relatives  of  the  deceased  that  the 
"  Miringu  has  taken  him  or  her ;"  or,  "he  or  she  is 
lost."    "  It  is  God's  work."    And  the  tone  of  awe  with 

2  v 


546 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


which  they  speak  of  it  implies  also  "  that  it  is  marvellous 
in  their  eyes." 

"  Can  a  maid  forget  her  ornaments,  or  a  bride  her 
attire  ?"  It  seems  not  in  Unyamwezi.  From  the  hour 
that  she  begins  to  call  for  "  mamma  "  her  ornaments  are 
her  constant  solicitude.  She  loves  to  look  at  the  pretty 
wristlets  of  red,  yellow,  white,  and  green  beads  which 
appear  in  such  contrast  against  the  dark  hue  of  her 
skin  ;  she  loves  to  twine  her  fingers  through  the  lengthy 
necklaces  of  variegated  beads  that  are  suspended  from 
her  neck,  or  to  play  with  the  bead  belt  that  encompasses 
her  waist ;  she  even  sets  them  in  her  hair,  and  loves  to 
be  told  that  they  become  her.  It  is  a  pleasure  with  her 
to  possess  a  spiral  wire  cincture,  even  though  she 
possesses  no  garment  to  be  supported  by  it.  She  awaits 
with  impatience  the  day  when  she  can  be  married,  and 
have  a  cloth  to  fold  around  her  body — until  she  can 
have  authority  to  dispose  of  her  fowls  for  the  cheap 
tinsel  vended  by  Arab  merchants. 

The  ladies'  tea-parties  in  Anglo-Saxon  lands  seem  to 
have  had  an  early  origin.  They  were  in  vogue,  or  at 
least  there  were  gatherings  similar  to  them,  when  Egypt 
stood  highest  in  the  list  of  civilized  nations.  Who  has 
studied  the  pictures  of  ancient  Egypt  on  the  walls  of 
recovered  Memphis,  and  has  not  seen  the  ladies'  social 
circle  ?  I  have  seen  these  symposia  in  Abyssinia — that 
land  so  tenacious  of  ancient  customs.  A  ladies'  party 
may  be  seen  in  Unyamwezi,  also;  and  seldom  have  I  be- 
held anything  so  approaching  to  happiness  and  perfect 
contentment  as  the  faces  of  the  old  and  young  women 
of  a  Kinyamwezi  tembe,  as  they  have  gathered  together 
near  sunset  from  the  various  houses  to  sit  and  chat 
together  of  the  events  of  the  day,  on  the  very  trite 
subjects  of  interest  that  a  Kinyamwezi  social  circle  can 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS  547 


have  to  converse  about.  Each  female  has  her  short 
stool  and  her  growing  daughter  by  her  side,  who,  while 
the  mother  chats  and  smokes  with  her  face  radiant  with 
contentment,  employs  her  nimble  hands  in  converting 
her  parent's  woolly  locks  into  a  series  of  plaits  and 
ringlets.  The  elder  females,  squatted  in  a  circle,  begin 
to  recite  their  experiences,  chattering  away  like  swallows : 
one  tells  how  her  cow  has  stopped  giving  milk  ;  another, 
how  well  she  has  sold  her  milk  to  the  white  man ; 
another,  of  her  experiences  in  the  field  while  she  was 
hoeing  ;  another,  of  how  her  master  has  not  yet  returned 
from  the  Kinyamwezi  capital,  whither  he  bad  gone  with 
some  grain  to  sell. 

While  the  village  matrons  indulge  in  harmless  gossip, 
the  paterfamilias  may  be  found  in  the  Young  Men's 
Gossip  Institute,  or  the  Exchange,  where  the  prices 
of  things  and  the  politics  of  the  district  they  live 
in  are  discussed,  with  perhaps  as  much  acumen  and 
sense  as  other  things  are  in  like  places  in  more 
civilized  lands.  This  public  assembly  room  in  a  Ki- 
nyamwezi village  is  called  in  the  dialect  "  Wanza,"  or 
"  Uwanza,"  and  is  generally  situated  on  one  side  of  the 
square  area  within  the  village.  During  idle  times — 
and  it  is  seldom  there  are  busy  times — they  smoke,  sit 
on  their  heels,  and  have  a  discussion  on  perhaps  the 
very  same  topics  we  have  just  heard  the  matrons  talk 
about :  most  probably  the  topic  is  the  white  man  wno 
has  just  arrived.  We  may  rest  assured  that,  if  it  is  the 
white  man,  it  is  a  most  interesting  subject;  though, 
however  interesting  it  is,  and  however  great  their 
curiosity  to  know  all  about  him,  they  are  never  so 
impertinent  as  to  doubt  the  fact  of  his  being  a  white 
man,  or  to  dispute  his  statements,  as  certain  people 
calling  themselves  civilized  have  been  pleased  to  do. 


548 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


A  man  has  a  spear  to  sharpen,  or  a  sword  to  decorate* 
or  an  axe  helve  to  make,  or  a  pipe  to  smoke,  or  gossip 
to  impart,  and  he  enters  the  Wanza  to  do  it.  If  the 
place  is  deserted  he  hurries  through  his  work,  and  seeks 
the  group  under  the  large  tree  almost  always  found 
in  a  village,  where,  under  its  shade,  he  can  indulge  his 
love  for  intellectual  conversation.  What  the  Agora 
was  to  Athens,  and  the  Exchange  is  to  the  modern 
capitals  of  civilization,  the  Wanza  is  to  a  village  in 
Unyamwezi. 

The  Wanyamwezi,  as  may  be  gathered  from  the 
above  remarks,  are  addicted  to  smoking.  By  glancing 
at  the  illustrations  of  the  various  kinds  of  pipes  it  will 
be  noticed  that  they  display  considerable  skill  in  their 
manufacture,  and  it  will  be  observed  also  that  the 
style  of  them  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  North 
American  Indian  pipes.  While  our  Indians  employ 
red  steatite  for  their  pipes  the  Wanyamwezi  use  black 
steatite,  which  is  found  in  Western  Usukuma.  But  as 
this  soft  stone  is  somewhat  difficult  to  obtain  they 
manufacture  them  out  of  black  mud,  mixed  with  finely- 
chopped  straw.  The  tobacco  of  Unyamwezi  is  not  of 
a  superior  kind.  They  manufacture  it  into  the  same 
form  as  the  tobacco  loaves  of  Abyssinia.  A  doti,  or 
four  yards  of  cloth,  will  purchase  a  three-pound  loaf; 
and  a  pipe  made  of  black  steatite,  and  stem  highly  orna- 
mented with  fine  brass  or  copper  wire,  may  be  obtained 
for  the  same  quantity  of  cloth. 

The  natives  are  also  very  fond  of  using  bhang  with 
their  tobacco.  Their  narghileh  is  a  very  primitive 
affair,  made  out  of  a  gourd  and  a  hollow  stick.  One  or 
two  inhalations  are  sufficient  to  send  any  of  them  into  a 
series  of  horrible  coughs,  which  seem  to  rack  their 
frames.    They,  however,  delight  in  this,  for  frequently 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  548 

they  affect  it ;  but  it  is  impossible  to  describe  trie 
irritability  and  disgust  which  their  noisy,  harsh,  grating 
cough  provokes. 

The  Wanyamwezi  of  Unyanyembe  own  several  herds 
of  cattle.  In  whichever  country  cattle  are  seen,  one 
may  take  it  for  granted  that  it  is  seldom  invaded. 
Between  the  coast  and  TJjiji,  cattle  were  found  only  in 
Usagara,  Ugogo,  Unyanyembe,  and  Uhha;  all  other 
countries  reared  only  goats,  sheep,  and  chickens.  Some 
of  the  wealthier  Arabs  of  Unyanyembe  possess  large 
herds  of  cattle,  and  have  as  many  as  forty  and  fifty 
milch  cows,  but  there  are  few  Wanyamwezi  who  possess 
more  than  thirty.  A  milch  cow  is  worth  from  twenty 
to  thirty  doti,  or  80  to  120  yards  of  sheeting  ;  though 
in  Usukuma  one  may  be  purchased  for  from  two  to  four 
doti.  Half  a  gallon  of  milk  is  considered  good  milking 
for  a  cow ;  but  this  is  not  often  the  case :  I  should  say 
the  average  produce  was  three  pints.  I  was  accustomed 
to  have  one  gallon  of  milk  supplied  to  me  every  day 
for  ten  days  for  four  yards  of  cloth,  given  in  the  shape 
of  a  kitambi,  or  a  colored  cloth.  With  this  supply  of 
milk  I  was  accustomed  to  make  my  own  butter  and 
cheese,  and  in  Unyanyembe  they  were  the  greatest 
luxuries  a  white  man  could  have. 

This  tribe  are,  like  all  negroes,  great  lovers  of  music. 
It  is  true  that  it  is  barbarous,  and  becomes  monotonous 
after  a  while,  but  the  best  of  their  musicians  can  always 
make  it  amusing.  Many  of  them  are  great  impro- 
visers ;  the  latest  scandal,  or  political  news  or  personal 
gossip,  is  sure,  if  it  is  of  sufficient  public  interest,  to 
find  expression  in  village  music.  Within  a  week  after 
the  declaration  of  war  by  Mirambo,  there  was  not  a 
village  throughout  Unyamwezi  which  did  not  at  evening 
have  Mirambo,  somehow  or  another,  mentioned  in  their 


550 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


songs ;  and  as  they  were  all  well-known  tunes  in  that 
part  of  the  country,  the  name  of  this  now  famous  king 
had  been  interpolated  instead  of  the  one  previously 
used.  The  Musungu,  or  Muzungu,  as  it  is  sometimes 
pronounced,  was  also  a  favorite  subject  upon  first 
arrival,  but  this  soon  lacked  novelty. 

The  food  of  these  natives,  as  indeed  of  all  throughout 
Central  Africa,  consists  of  flour  of  matama — the  Holcus 
sorghum,  or  the  Arabic  dourra,  or  dura,  converted  into 
a  kind  of  thick  porridge,  which  is  simply  a  scalded  mess. 
This  is  accompanied  with  leaves  of  garden  plants,  such 
as  the  bean  and  the  cucumber-plant,  which  are  boiled 
and  mashed  up.  They  seldom  eat  meat,  as  it  would  be 
too  expensive,  and  there  are  many  animals  from  which 
they  are  averse.  They  will  eat  the  foetus  and  entrails 
with  rare  relish,  and  if  they  can  obtain  meat  at  another's 
expense  they  are  very  apt  to  gorge  themselves.  In  my 
caravan,  when  I  succeeded  in  my  hunts,  the  Wanyamwezi 
would  sit  up  all  night  to  finish  their  portion  of  meat, 
as  if  it  were  a  sacred  duty  with  them.  The  mush  of 
America,  made  of  Indian  corn,  is  well  known  throughout 
all  Central  Africa.  When  this  humble  meal  is  cooked 
the  males  of  the  family  assemble  around  their  pot,  and 
scooping  out  a  large  handful,  dip  it  into  the  mess  of 
greens,  or  ghee,  and  cram  it  into  their  mouths.  The 
females  eat  separately,  it  being  derogatory  to  male  dig- 
nity to  be  seen  eating  with  female  relatives. 

Very  old  age  is  unusual  in  Central  Africa.  Grey  hair 
and  stooping  backs  are  to  be  seen  in  almost  every  village. 
The  oldest  people  I  saw  were  in  Ugogo  and  Unya- 
nyembe — ancient,  secure,  and  well-established  countries. 
I  should  estimate  the  age  of  Magomba,  Sultan  of 
Kanyenyi,  at  near  ninety  :  in  1858 — fourteen  years  ago 
— Capt.  Burton  mentions  him  as  old  and  decrepit.  He 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  551 


lives  yet,  but  is  unable  to  walk  far  without  assistance. 
His  eldest  son,  Kisewah,  must  be  considerably  ovei 
sixty,  and  his  youngest  son,  Mtundu  Ngondeh,  near  fifty. 
The  Sultan  of  Mizanza,  who  slew  Sny  bin  Ainer,  the 
friend  of  Burton  and  Speke,  in  my  opinion  cannot  be 
much  under  eighty ;  and  Pembera  Pereh,  chief  of 
Nyambwa,  must  be  of  the  same  age. 

I  regard  the  Wakonongo  and  the  Wa-kawendi  as 
belonging  formerly  to  the  same  race  as  the  Wanya- 
mwezi ;  their  languages,  manners,  and  customs  are 
identical.  But  when  we  cross  the  Malagarazi,  and 
enter  Uvinza,  we  find  ourselves  among  different  people  ■ 
and  in  describing  the  Wavinza's  manners  and  customs 
I  include  the  Wajiji,  Wakaranga,  Warundi,  Wavira, 
Watuta,  and  Watusi. 

The  greeting  which  we  hear  upon  our  arrival  in 
Uvinza  tells  us  of  new  tribes,  and  new  customs,  to 
which  we  are  about  to  be  introduced.  It  is  a  most 
tedious  ceremony,  a  first  introduction  between  two 
Wavinza.  As  they  advance  they  stretch  out  both 
hands  to  one  another,  uttering  the  words  "  Wake, 
wake ;"  then,  grasping  each  other  by  the  elbows,  they 
begin  to  rub  each  other's  arms,  saying  rapidly,  "  Wake, 
wake,  waky,  waky/'ending  with  grunts  of  "  Huh,  huh," 
which  imply  mutual  satisfaction.  The  women  greet  the 
males — even  half-grown  youths  —  by  bending  their 
backs  forward  until  the  tips  of  their  fingers  rest  on  the 
toes  of  their  feet,  or  in  turning  their  bodies  sideways, 
clapping  their  hands,  exclaiming,  "  Wake,  wake,  waky 
waky ;  Huh,  huh  ;"  and  the  males  reply  by  clapping 
their  hands,  and  responding  with  the  same  words. 

The  dress  of  all  these  people,  if  they  are  not  rich 
enough  to  purchase  cloth  from  travelling  caravans,  or 
skilful  enough  in  the  manufacture  of  their  own  cloths, 


552 


ROW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


like  the  Wajiji  and  Warundi,  consists  of  a  goat-skin, 

suspended  by  a  knot  fastened  over  the  shoulder,  and 
falling  over  one  side  of  their  bodies. 

For  ornaments  they  affect  the  solid  brass  rings  around 
their  ankles  or  wrists,  or  the  kitindi  (brass  wire,  which 
is  twisted  into  a  spiral  coil).  The  polished  tusks  of  the 
boar,  or  a  polished  piece  of  thin  and  curved  ivory,  are 
favourite  ornaments  for  the  neck  throughout  the  dis- 
tricts of  Uvinza,  Uhha,  Ujiji,  and  Urundi. 


AN  IDOL. 


The  Wajiji  are  skilful  manufacturers  of  their  own 
cloth,  from  the  cotton  which  they  cultivate,  and  it  is 
similar  in  texture  to  the  Mexican  Serape.  They  are  a 
superstitious  race,  like  the  Wakaranga.  In  Niamtaga, 
near  the  gate  of  the  village,  I  saw  their  tutelar  deity, 
which  was  the  carved  head  of  a  man  in  wood,  painted. 
The  face  was  colored  white,  with  black  staring  eyes, 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS.  553 


the  figure  had  square  upright  shoulders,  and  a  kind 
of  head-dress  painted  a  yellow  color.  Each  man  or 
woman,  upon  entering  at  the  gate,  bowed  profoundly 
to  the  idol,  as  Roman  Catholics  do  before  the  image 
of  the  Blessed  Virgin. 

The  Wajiji  believe  that  they  have  power  over  the 
crocodiles ;  that  they  are  so  friendly  with  those  amphi- 
bious reptiles  that  they  can  compel  them  to  do  whatever 
they  wish.  There  is  a  report  current  in  Ujiji  that  there 
is  a  crocodile,  as  learned  as  the  seal  of  Barnum's  Museum 
in  New  York,  which  obeys  the  commands  of  his  friends 
implicitly,  even  to  taking  a  man  out  of  his  house  into 
the  lake,  or  to  travelling  into  a  crowded  market,  and 
detecting  a  thief  out  of  a  large  assembly  of  natives. 
The  caverns  of  Kabogo,  on  the  western  side  of  the  lake, 
are  a  horror  to  the  Wajiji,  who,  whenever  they  pass 
that  terrible  place,  think  to  mollify  the  angry  god  of 
the  lake  by  throwing  beads  and  cloth  into  the  waters. 
They  report  that  this  is  necessary,  and  that  the  god  has 
a  preference  for  white  (Merikani)  beads ;  and  the 
Wangwana  of  Zanzibar  and  the  Arabs  must  comply 
with  this  traditional  custom  ere  the  Wajiji  will  pull 
oars  across.  In  passing  Bemba,  also,  every  boat  must 
chip  a  certain  portion  of  the  pipe-clay  ere  it  can  be 
assured  of  a  fortunate  voyage.  That  it  has  been  a 
custom  complied  with  for  generations  is  evident  by  the 
enormous  excavation  they  have  made  in  the  chalk  cliff. 

No  more  varied  customs  have  I  observed  anywhere  in 
regard  to  the  dressing  of  the  hair  than  I  have  seen  in 
Urundi  and  Ujiji.  It  is  either  shaved  off  entirely,  or  left 
in  diagonal  and  horizontal  lines ;  or  in  combs,  ridges, 
tufts,  stripes,  little  curls  on  the  temple  and  forehead  ;  or 
in  front  bands,  and  sometimes  in  narrow  wavy  or  straight 
lines :  from  which  we  may  conclude  that  the  friseurs  is 


554 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


a  high  art  in  savage  as  in  civilized  lands.  And  in  the 
ornamentation  of  their  bodies  by  tattooing  they  are 
superior  to  other  tribes.  You  will  find  a  tattooed  wheel 
encircling  the  navel,  and  around  each  bosom ;  on  the 
arms  the  tattooing  marks  are  in  wavy  lines,  or  con- 
centric folds,  or  in  lines  running  diagonally  across  the 
chest  to  the  shoulder  ;  in  bracelets  around  the  wrist ; 
then  from  left  shoulder  to  right  hip,  from  right  shoulder 
to  left  hip,  over  the  stomach,  in  a  most  intricate  system 
of  lines  wavy  and  horizontal ;  and  over  the  abdomen  in 
great  blotch  pieces,  with  no  design  whatever.  The 
operation  of  tattooing,  though,  must  be  a  painful  one. 
if  one  may  judge  from  the  immense  blisters  raised  after 
the  punctures. 

Nothing  limits  the  vanity  of  the  negro  for  ornament 
except  poverty.  Those  able  to  afford  the  expense  wear 
as  many  as  thirty  and  forty  necklaces  of  sami-sami, 
Merikani,  sofi,  or  pipe-stem  beads,  kadunduguru,  and  the 
pink  beads.  I  refer  to  the  Wajiji  and  Warundi,  more 
especially  the  latter.  Suspended  to  their  necks  are  the 
thin  curved  pieces  of  ivory,  hippopotamus  teeth,  and 
boar  tusks ;  and  at  the  back  of  the  neck  heavy  pieces  of 
carved  ivory.  Some  wear  attached  to  their  necks  long 
narrow  miniature  bells  of  native  iron,  twisted  iron  wire, 
and  charms,  or  white  polished  stones  or  shells,  as 
amulets.  Encircling  their  wrists  are  armlets  of  sami- 
sami  or  blue  mutunda,  which  latter  is  a  favourite  bead ; 
beHs  of  these  beads  also  surround  their  waists. 

Their  clothing  consists  of  a  tanned  goat,  calf,  or 
sheep  skin,  dyed  with  the  reddish  porous  clay  swept  down 
the  ravines  by  the  rivulets.  These  hide-garments  are 
further  ornamented  with  black  lines,  spots,  and  circles, 
after  the  manner  in  vogue  amongst  our  American 
Indians. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  RLMARKS.  565 

Like  the  Wagogo,  and  perhaps  to  a  greater  extent, 
the  Warundi  are  fond  of  ochre  on  their  bodies.  Besides 
rubbing  their  bodies  with  this  clay,  which  considerably 
lightens  the  color,  they  daub  their  faces,  heads,  eyelids, 
and  eyebrows  a  deep  red  with  it. 

Their  women  are  in  the  habit  of  tying  down  their 
long  purse-like  breasts  upon  their  chests  with  a  cord 
twined  round  their  bodies.  They  carry  for  defence,  or 
from  habit,  long  sticks,  which  are  sometimes  decorated 
with  a  small  figure  of  a  lizard,  or  a  crocodile,  on  the 
head. 

The  tribes  bordering  the  lake  carry  heavy  spears  for 
close  action,  or  for  quartering  a  man,  and  light  assegai, 
which  they  are  able  to  throw  most  accurately  fifty  and 
seventy  yards.  The  bows  are  shorter  than  those  used 
by  the  Wanyamwezi  and  Wakonongo,  but  the  arrows 
are  the  same,  though  more  skilfully  and  tastefully  made. 

The  Wabembe,  or  the  Wavembe — the  cannibals 
who  inhabit  the  rugged  range  of  mountains  west  of 
the  Tanganika,  and  opposite  North-eastern  Urundi — are 
;i  people  seldom  seen  by  travellers  on  the  lake.  They 
seem  to  infer,  from  their  own  practices,  that  other 
people  eat  their  kind,  and  when  boats  with  Arabs  and 
Wangwana  appear  in  their  vicinity  they  keep  close 
to  their  own  mountain  villages.  It  is  said,  though 
I  do  not  vouch  for  the  truth  of  the  report,  that 
when  they  have  known  an  Arab  merchant  to  have  a 
sickly  or  a  moribund  slave,  they  have  offered  to  pur- 
chase him  for  grain  and  vegetables ;  that  when  they 
have  seen  an  unusually  fat  freedman  of  Zanzibar, 
they  have  put  their  hands  to  their  mouths,  and  ex- 
claimed, with  astonishment,  "  Chukula,  ngema  sana, 
hapal  Chumvi  mengil" — Food,  good,  indeed,  here! 
Salt  plenty ! 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


The  Wasansi — or  Basansi,  as  Dr.  Livingstone  thinks 
they  should  be  called — are  neighbors  of  the  Wabernbe, 
and  I  fear  they  must  be  classed  with  the  man-eaters  of 
Ubembe.  The  Wasansi  were  those  who  at  Cape 
Luvumba  made  such  a  disturbance  with  the  Doctoi 
and  myself  because  of  the  murder  of  the  son  of  Sultan 
Kisesa  by  Khainis,  the  Baluch,  and  who  declared  to  us 
they  never  wished  to  behold  another  "  Murungwana  M — 
Zanzibar  freeman.     Positively,  I  never  beheld  such 


DAGGERS  AND  SPEAR-HEADS. 


excitement  in  my  life  as  these  people  exhibited  when 
they  saw  one  of  my  soldiers  cutting  up  a  goat  for 
distribution.  They  seemed  to  be  attacked  with  a  kind 
of  frenzy  at  the  sight  of  the  meat,  such  as  one  might 
expect  from  any  hungry  carnivorous  animal.  They 
implored  with  wild  eyes  for  the  smallest  portion  ;  they 
fought  among  themselves  when  one  of  my  men  threw  a 
piece  into  a  crowd  ;  they  eagerly  gathered  the  clotted 


GEOGRAPHICAL  AND  ETHNOGRAPHICAL  REMARKS  557 


blood  of  the  goat  from  the  ground,  and  gazed  with  an 
esurient  avidity  at  every  mouthful  of  meat  a  man  ate. 
Whatever  may  be  true  respecting  the  man-eating  pro- 
pensities of  the  Wabembe,  I  feel  assured  that  the  Wasansi 
are  cannibals. 

The  Manyuema  are  the  cleverest  manufacturers  of 
weapons,  as  may  be  seen  by  the  foregoing  sketch  of 
daggers  and  spear-heads. 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE 


VTF.W  OF  OUR  CAMP  AT  URIMBA. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

OUR  JOURNEY  FROM  UJIJI  TO  UNYANYEMBB. 

We  felt  quite  at  home  when  we  sat  down  on  our  black 
bear-skin,  gay  Persian  carpet  and  clean  new  mats,  to 
rest  with  our  backs  to  the  wall,  sipping  our  tea  with  the 
air  of  comfortable  men,  and  chat  over  the  incidents 
of  the  "  picnic,"  as  Livingstone  persisted  in  calling  our 
journey  to  the  Rusizi.  It  seemed  as  if  old  times,  which 
we  loved  to  recall,  had  come  back  again,  though  our 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  VNYANYEMBE. 


559 


house  was  humble  enough  in  its  aspect,  and  our  servants 
were  only  naked  barbarians ;  but  it  was  near  this  house 
that  I  had  met  him — Livingstone — after  that  eventful 
march  from  Unyanyeinbe  ;  it  was  on  this  same  veranda 
that  I  listened  to  that  wonderful  story  of  his  about  those 
far,  enchanting  regions  west  of  the  Lake  Tanganika  ;  it 
was  in  this  same  spot  that  I  first  became  acquainted 
with  him ;  and  ever  since  my  admiration  has  been 
growing  for  him,  and  I  feel  elated  when  he  informs 
me  that  he  must  go  to  Unyanyembe  under  my  escort, 
and  at  my  expense.  The  old  mud  walls  and  the  bare 
rafters,  and  the  ancient  thatched  roof,  and  this  queer- 
looking  old  veranda,  will  have  an  historical  interest  for 
me  while  I  live,  and  so,  while  I  can,  I  have  taken 
pains  and  immortalized  the  humble  old  building  by  a 
sketch. 

I  have  just  said  that  my  admiration  for  Livingstone 
has  been  growing.  This  is  true.  The  man  that  I  was 
about  to  interview  so  calmly  and  complacently,  as  I 
would  interview  any  prominent  man  with  the  view  of 
specially  delineating  his  nature,  or  detailing  his  opinions, 
has  conquered  me.  Shall  I  tell  you  what  I  intended 
to  do  ?  It  is  true  as  the  gospel.  I  intended  to  interview 
him,  report  in  detail  what  he  said,  picture  his  life  and 
his  figure,  then  bow  him  my  "  au  revoir"  and  march 
back.  That  he  was  specially  disagreeable  and  brusque 
in  his  manner,  which  would  make  me  quarrel  with  him 
immediately,  was  firmly  fixed  in  my  mind.  Besides, 
he  was  an  Englishman — perhaps  a  mau  who  used  an 
eye-glass,  through  which  he  would  glare  at  me  fero- 
ciously or  icily — both  amounting  to  the  same  thing — 
and  like  the  young  cornet  of  the  Scinde  Horse  in  Abys- 
sinia, ask  me  deliberately,  after  retreating  from  me 
several  paces,  "  Whom  have  I  the  honor  to  address  ?" 


5G0 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


or  like  that  ancient  general  at  Senafe,  Sir  , 

who  snorted  out, "  Well,  sir,  who  are  you  ?  What  do  you 
want  here  ?"  Indeed,  the  results  of  my  acquaintance 
with  English  gentlemen  were  such,  that  I  should  not 
have  been  surprised  if  he  had  said,  "  Might  I  ask  you, 
sir,  if  you  have  a  letter  of  introduction  for  me  ?"  But 
what  a  question  this  had  been  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Tanganika  !  I  would  have  just  ordered  a  retreat  to  the 
hill  above  Ujiji ;  there  rested  for  two  days,  and  then 
returned,  to  tell  the  world  how  I  had  been  snubbed. 
But  Livingstone — true,  noble  Christian,  generous- 
hearted,  frank  man — acted  like  a  hero,  invited  me 
to  his  house,  said  he  was  glad  to  see  me,  and  got  well 
on  purpose  to  prove  the  truth  of  his  statement,  "  You 
have  brought  new  life  unto  me ;"  and  when  I  fell  sick 
with  the  remittent  fever,  hovering  between  life  and 
death,  he  attended  me.  like  a  father,  and  we  have  now 
been  together  for  more  than  a  month.  Can  you  wonder 
that  I  like  this  man,  whose  face  is  the  reflex  of  his 
nature,  whose  heart  is  essentially  all  goodness,  whose  aims 
are  so  high,  that  I  break  out  impetuously  sometimes : 
"  But  your  family,  Doctor,  they  would  like  to  see  you, 
oh  !  so  much.  Let  me  tempt  you  to  come  home  with  me. 
I  promise  to  carry  you  every  foot  of  the  way  to  the 
coast.  You  shall  have  the  finest  donkey  to  ride  that  is 
in  Unyanyembe.  Your  wants — you  have  but  to  hint 
them,  and  they  shall  be  satisfied.  Let  the  sources  of 
the  Nile  go — do  you  come  home  and  rest ;  then,  after 
a  year's  rest,  and  restored  health,  you  can  return  and 
finish  what  you  have  to  do." 

But  ever  the  answer  was,  "  No,  I  should  like  to  see 
my  family  very  much  indeed.  My  children's  letters 
affect  me  intensely ;  but  I  must  not  go  home ;  I  must 
finish  my  task.    It  is  only  the  want  of  supplies  that 


Deo.  1871.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNTANYEMBE. 


561 


has  detained  me.  I  should  have  finished  the  discovery 
of  the  Nile  by  this,  by  tracing  it  to  its  connection  with 
either  Baker's  Lake,  or  Petherick's  branch  of  the  Nile. 
If  I  had  only  gone  one  month  further,  I  could  have 
said,  6  the  work  is  done.'  But  Dr.  Kirk  has  kept 
on  sending  me  slaves  over  and  over  again ;  and  he 
ought  to  know,  too,  what  slaves  are.  Why  he 
should  have  gone  to  Banyans  for  men  I  can't  make 
out." 

Some  of  these  men  who  had  turned  the  Doctor  back 
from  his  interesting  discoveries  were  yet  in  Ujiji,  and 
had  the  Government  Enfield  rifles  in  their  hands,  which 
they  intended  to  retain  until  their  wages  had  been  paid 
to  them ;  but  as  they  had  received  $60  advance 
each  at  Zanzibar  from  the  English  Consul,  with  the 
understanding  entered  into  by  contract  that  they  should 
follow  their  master  wherever  he  required  them  to 
go  ;  and  as  they  had  not  only  not  gone  where  they 
were  required  to  proceed  with  him,  but  had  baffled  and 
thwarted  him,  it  was  preposterous  that  a  few  men 
should  triumph  over  the  Doctor,  by  keeping  the  arms 
given  to  him  by  the  Bombay  Government.  I  had 
listened  to  the  Arab  sheikhs,  friends  of  the  Doctor, 
advising  them  in  mild  tones  to  give  them  up ;  I  had 
witnessed  the  mutineers'  stubbornness;  and  it  was  then, 
on  the  burzani  of  Sayd  bin  Majid's  house,  that  I  took 
advantage  to  open  my  mind  on  the  subject,  not  only 
for  the  benefit  of  the  stubborn  slaves,  but  also  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Arabs  ;  and  to  tell  them  that  it  was  well 
that  I  had  found  Livingstone  alive,  for  if  they  had  but 
injured  a  hair  of  his  head,  I  should  have  gone  back  to 
the  coast,  to  return  with  a  party  which  would  enable 
me  to  avenge  him.    I  had  been  waiting  to  see  Living- 

2  o 


562 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


stone's  guns  returned  to  him  every  day,  hoping  that  I 
should  not  have  to  use  force  ;  but  when  a  month  or 
more  had  elapsed,  and  still  the  arms  had  not  been 
returned,  I  applied  for  permission  to  take  them,  which 
was  granted.  Susi,  the  gallant  servant  of  Dr.  Living- 
stone— who  would  have  been  worth  his  weight  in  silver 
if  he  were  not  an  incorrigible  thief — was  immediately 
despatched  with  about  a  dozen  armed  men  to  recover 
them,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  had  possession  of  them, 
without  further  trouble. 

The  Doctor  had  resolved  to  accompany  me  to  Unya- 
nyembe,  in  order  to  meet  his  stores,  which  had  been 
forwarded  from  Zanzibar,  November  1st,  1870,  by  the 
British  Consul.  As  I  had  charge  of  the  escort,  it  was 
my  duty  to  study  well  the  several  routes  to  Unya- 
nyembe  from  Ujiji.  I  was  sufficiently  aware  of  the 
difficulties  and  the  responsibilities  attached  to  me 
while  escorting  such  a  man.  Besides,  my  own  personal 
feelings  were  involved  in  the  case.  If  Livingstone 
came  to  any  harm  through  any  indiscretion  of  mine 
while  he  was  with  me,  it  would  immediately  be  said, 
"  Ah  !  had  he  not  accompanied  Stanley,  he  would  have 
been  alive  now." 

I  took  out  my  chart — the  one  I  had  made  myself — 
in  which  I  had  perfect  faith,  and  I  sketched  out  a 
route  which  would  enable  us  to  reach  Unyanyembe 
without  paying  a  single  cloth  as  tribute,  and  without 
encountering  any  worse  thing  than  a  jungle,  by  which 
we  could  avoid  all  the  AVavinza  and  the  plundering 
Wahha.  And  this  peaceable,  secure  route  led  by 
water,  so^m,  along  the  coast  of  Ukaranga  and  Uka- 
wendi,  to  Cape  Tongwe.  Arriving  at  Cape  Tongwe, 
I  should  be  opposite  the  village  of  Itaga,  Sultan  Imrera, 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYAN YEMBE. 


563 


in  the  district  of  Rusawa  of  Ukawendi;  after  which  we 
should  strike  my  old  road,  which  I  had  traversed  from 
Unyanyembe,  when  bound  for  TJjiji.  I  explained  it  to 
the  Doctor,  and  he  instantly  recognised  its  feasibility 
and  security  ;  and  if  I  struck  Imrera,  as  I  proposed  to 
do,  it  would  demonstrate  whether  my  chart  was  correct 
or  not. 

We  arrived  at  Ujiji  from  our  tour  of  discovery,  north 
of  the  Tanganika,  December  13th;  and  from  this  date 
the  Doctor  commenced  writing  his  letters  to  his  nume- 
rous friends,  and  to  copy  into  his  mammoth  Letts's 
Diary,  from  his  field  books,  the  valuable  information 
he  had  acquired  during  his  years  of  travel  south  and 
west  of  the  Tanganika.  I  sketched  him  while  sitting 
in  his  shirt-sleeves  in  the  veranda,  with  his  Letts's 
Diary  on  his  knee  ;  and  the  likeness  on  the  other  page 
is  an  admirable  portrait  of  him,  because  the  artist  who 
has  assisted  me  has,  with  an  intuitive  eye,  seen  the 
defects  in  my  own  sketch ;  and  by  this  I  am  enabled  to 
restore  him  to  the  reader's  view  exactly  as  I  saw  him — 
as  he  pondered  on  what  he  had  witnessed  during  his 
long  marches. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  at  Ujiji,  he  had  rushed  to  his 
paper,  and  indited  that  letter  to  James  Gordon 
Bennett,  Esq.,  wherein  he  has  recorded  his  thanks  ; 
and  after  he  had  finished  it,  I  asked  him  to  add  the 
word  "Junior"  to  it,  as  it  was  young  Mr.  Bennett  to 
whom  he  was  indebted.  I  thought  the  letter  admirable, 
and  requested  the  Doctor  not  to  add  another  word  to 
it.  The  feelings  of  his  heart  had  found  expression  in 
the  grateful  words  he  had  written  ;  and  if  I  judged 
Mr.  Bennett  rightly,  I  knew  he  would  be  satisfied  with 
it,  For  it  was  not  the  news  he  cared  so  much  about, 
as  the  grand  fact  of  Livingstone's  being  alive  or  dead. 


564 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


In  this  latter  part  of  December  he  was  writing  letters 
to  his  children,  to  Sir  Roderick  Murchison,  and  to  Lord 
Granville.  He  had  intended  to  have  written  to  the 
Earl  of  Clarendon,  but  it  was  my  sad  task  to  inform 
him  of  the  death  of  that  distinguished  nobleman. 

In  the  meantime  I  was  preparing  the  Expedition  fo; 
its  return  march  to  Unyanyembe,  apportioning  the  bale:* 
and  luggage,  the  Doctor's  large  tin  boxes,  and  my  own, 
among  my  own  men  ;  for  I  had  resolved  upon  per- 
mitting the  Doctor's  men  to  march  as  passengers, 
because  they  had  so  nobly  performed  their  duty  to 
their  master. 

Sayd  bin  Majid  had  left,  December  12,  for  Mirambo's 
country,  to  give  the  black  Bonaparte  battle  for  the 
murder  of  his  son  Soud  in  the  forests  of  Wilyankuru ; 
and  he  had  taken  with  him  300  stout  fellows,  armed 
with  guns,  from  Ujiji.  The  stout-hearted  old  chief  was 
burning  with  rage  and  resentment,  and  a  fine  warlike 
figure  he  made  with  his  7-foot  gun.  Before  we  had 
departed  for  the  Rusizi,  I  had  wished  him  bon  voyage, 
and  expressed  a  hope  that  he  would  rid  the  Central 
African  world  of  the  tyrant  Mirambo. 

On  the  20th  of  December  the  rainy  season  was 
ushered  in  with  heavy  rain,  thunder,  lightning,  and 
hail ;  the  thermometer  falling  to  66°  Fahrenheit.  The 
evening  of  this  day  I  was  attacked  with  urticaria,  or 
"  nettle  rash,"  for  the  third  time  since  arriving  in 
Africa,  and  I  suffered  a  woeful  sickness ;  it  was  the 
forerunner  of  an  attack  of  remittent  fever,  which  lasted 
four  days.  This  is  the  malignant  type,  which  has 
proved  fatal  to  so  many  African  travellers  on  the 
Zambezi,  the  White  Nile,  the  Congo,  and  the  Niger. 
The  head  throbs,  the  pulses  bound,  the  heart  struggles 
painfully,  while  the  sufferer's  thoughts  are  in  a  strange 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UN YA N YEMBE.  565 

world,  such  only  as  a  sick  man's  fancy  can  create.  This 
was  the  fourth  attack  of  fever  since  the  day  I  met 
Livingstone.  The  excitement  of  the  march,  and  the 
high  hope  which  my  mind  constantly  nourished,  had 
kept  my  body  almost  invincible  against  an  attack  of 
fever  while  advancing  towards  Ujiji ;  but  two  weeks 
after  the  great  event  had  transpired  my  energies  were 
relaxed,  my  mind  was  perfectly  tranquil,  and  I  be- 
came a  victim.  However,  as  I  had  never  been  prone 
to  intemperance,  or  to  the  indulgence  of  other  vicious 
habits  which  destroy  so  many  fine  constitutions,  my 
frame,  happily,  did  not  succumb  to  the  repeated  attacks 
of  the  insidious  disease. 

Christmas  came,  and  the  Doctor  and  I  had  resolved 
upon  the  blessed  and  time-honored  day  being  kept  as 
we  keep  it  in  Anglo-Saxon  lands,  with  a  feast  such  as 
Ujiji  could  furnish  us.  The  fever  had  quite  gone  from 
me  the  night  before,  and  on  Christmas  morning,  though 
exceedingly  weak,  I  was  up  and  dressed,  and  lecturing 
Ferajji,  the  cook,  upon  the  importance  of  this  day  to 
white  men,  and  endeavoring  to  instil  into  the  mind 
of  the  sleek  and  pampered  animal  some  cunning  secrets 
of  the  culinary  art.  Fat  broad-tailed  sheep,  goats, 
zogga  and  pombe,  eggs,  fresh  milk,  plantains,  singwe, 
fine  corn-flour,  fish,  onions,  sweet  potatoes,  &c.,  &c, 
were  procured  in  the  Ujiji  market,  and  from  good  old 
Moeni  Kheri.  But,  alas!  for  my  weakness.  Ferajji 
spoiled  the  roast,  and  our  custard  was  burned — the 
dinner  was  a  failure.  That  the  fat-brained  rascal 
escaped  a  thrashing  was  due  only  to  my  inability  to  lift 
my  hands  for  punishment ;  but  my  looks  were  dreadful 
and  alarming,  and  capable  of  annihilating  any  one 
except  Ferajji.  The  stupid,  hard-headed  cook  only 
chuckled,  and  I  believe  he  had  the  subsequent  gratifica- 


666 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


tion  of  eating  the  pies,  custards,  and  roast  that  his 
carelessness  had  spoiled  for  European  palates. 

Sayd  bin  Majid,  previous  to  his  departure,  had  left 
orders  that  we  should  be  permitted  to  use  his  canoe  for 
our  homeward  trip,  and  Moeni  Kheri  kindly  lent  his 
huge  vessel  for  the  same  purpose.  The  Expedition,  now 
augmented  by  the  Doctor  and  his  five  servants,  and 
their  luggage,  necessitated  the  employment  of  another 
canoe.  We  had  our  flocks  of  milch-goats  and  provision 
of  fat  sheep  for  the  jungle  of  Ukawendi,  the  transit 
of  which  I  was  about  to  attempt.  Good  Halimah, 
Livingstone's  cook,  had  made  ready  a  sackful  of  fine 
flour,  such  as  she  only  could  prepare  in  her  fond  devo- 
tion for  her  master.  Hamoydah,  her  husband,  also  had 
freely  given  his  assistance  and  attention  to  this  im- 
portant article  of  food.  I  purchased  a  donkey  for 
the  Doctor,  the  only  one  available  in  Ujiji,  lest  the 
Doctor  might  happen  to  suffer  on  the  long  march  from 
his  ancient  enemy.  In  short,  we  were  luxuriously 
furnished  with  food,  sheep,  goats,  cheese,  cloth,  donkeys, 
and  canoes,  sufficient  to  convey  us  a  long  distance 
we  needed  nothing  more. 

The  27th  of  December  has  arrived ;  it  is  the  day  of 
our  departure  from  Ujiji.  I  was  probably  about  to  give 
an  eternal  farewell  to  the  port,  whose  name  will  for 
ever  be  consecrate  in  my  memory.  The  canoes — 
great  lumbering  hollow  trees — are  laden  with  good 
things ;  the  rowers  are  in  their  places ;  the  flag  of 
England  is  hoisted  at  the  stern  of  the  Doctor's  canoe ; 
the  flag  of  America  waves  and  rustles  joyously  above 
mine ;  and  I  cannot  look  at  them  without  feeling  a 
certain  pride  that  the  two  Anglo-Saxon  nations  are 
represented  this  day  on  this  great  inland  sea,  in  the  face 
of  wild  nature  and  barbarism. 


Dec.  1871.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE. 


567 


We  are  escorted  to  our  boats  by  the  great  Arab 
merchants,  by  the  admiring  children  of  Unyamwezi, 
by  the  freemen  of  Zanzibar,  by  wondering  Waguhha 
and  Wajiji,  by  fierce  Warundi,  who  are  on  this  day 
quiet,  even  sorrowful,  that  the  white  men  are  going — 
u  Whither  r"  they  all  ask. 

At  8  a.m.  we  start,  freely  distributing  our  farewells 
as  the  Arabs  and  quidnuncs  wave  their  hands.  On  the 
part  of  one  or  two  of  them  there  was  an  attempt  to  say 
something  sentimental  and  affecting,  especially  by  the 
convicted  sinner  Mohammed  bin  Sali  ;  but  though 
outwardly  I  manifested  no  disapprobation  of  his  words, 
or  of  the  emphatic  way  in  which  he  shook  my  hand,  I 
was  not  sorry  to  see  the  last  of  him,  after  his  treachery 
to  Livingstone  in  1869.  I  was  earnestly  requested  to 
convey  to  Unyanyembe  "  Mengi  salaams  "  to  every- 
body, but  had  I  done  so,  as  he  evidently  desired  me 
to  do,  I  would  not  have  been  surprised  at  being  re- 
garded by  all  as  hopelessly  imbecile. 

We  shoved  off  from  the  clayey  bank  at  the  foot  of 
the  market-place,  while  the  land  party,  unencumbered 
with  luggage,  under  the  leadership  of  gigantic  Asmani 
and  Bombay,  commenced  their  journey  southward  along 
the  shores  of  the  lake.  We  had  arranged  to  meet 
them  at  the  mouth  of  every  river  to  transport  them 
across  from  bank  to  bank. 

The  Doctor  being  in  Sayd  bin  Majid's  boat,  which 
was  a  third  or  so  shorter  than  the  one  under  my  com- 
mand, took  the  lead,  with  the  British  flag,  held  aloft  by 
a  bamboo,  streaming  behind  like  a  crimson  meteor. 
My  boat — manned  by  Wajiji  sailors,  whom  we  had 
engaged  to  take  the  canoes  back  from  Tongwe  Cape  to 
Ujiji  Bunder — came  astern,  and  had  a  much  taller  flag- 
staff, on  which  was  hoisted  the  ever-beautiful  Stars  and 


568 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Stripes.  Its  extreme  height  drew  from  the  Doctor, — 
whose  patriotism  and  loyalty  had  been  excited, — the 
remark  that  he  would  cut  down  the  tallest  palmyra  for 
his  flagstaff,  as  it  was  not  fitting  that  the  British  flag 
should  be  so  much  lower  than  that  of  the  United 
States. 

Our  soldiers  were  not  a  whit  behind  us  in  light- 
headedness at  the  thought  of  going  to  Unyanyembe. 
They  struck  up  the  exhilarating  song  of  the  Zanzibar 
boatmen,  with  the  ecstatic  chorus — 

Kin  an  de  re  re  Kitunga, 

rowing  away  like  madmen,  until  they  were  compelled 
to  rest  from  sheer  exhaustion,  while  the  perspiration 
exuded  from  the  pores  of  their  bodies  in  streams.  When 
refreshed,  they  bent  back  to  their  oars,  raising  the  song 
of  the  Mrima — 

0  mama,  re  de  mi  Ky, 

which  soon  impelled  them  to  an  extravagant  effort 
again.  It  was  by  this  series  of  ferocious  spurts,  racing, 
shouting,  singing,  perspiring,  laughing,  groaning,  and 
puffing  that  our  people  vented  their  joyous  feelings,  as 
the  thought  filled  their  minds  that  we  were  homeward 
bound,  and  that  by  the  route  I  had  adopted  between 
us  and  Unyanyembe  there  was  not  the  least  danger. 

We  have  given  the  Waha,  the  slip  !  ha,  ha ! 
The  Wavinza  will  trouble  us  no  more !  oh,  oh  1 
Mionvu  can  get  no  more  cloth  from  us !  hy,  hy ! 
And  Kiala  will  see  us  no  more — never  more !  he,  he  1 

they  shouted  with  wild  bursts  of  laughter,  seconded  by 
tremendous  and  rapid  strokes  with  their  oars,  which 
caused  the  stiff  old  canoes  to  ouiver  from  stem  to  stern. 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UN YANYEMBE. 


569 


Our  party  ashore  seemed  to  partake  of  our  excite- 
ment, and  joined  in  the  wild  refrain  of  the  mad  African 
song.  We  watched  them  urging  their  steps  forward  to 
keep  pace  with  us,  as  we  rounded  the  capes  and  points, 
and  rowed  across  the  bays  whose  margins  were  sedge, 
and  rush,  and  reed.  The  tiny  and  agile  Kalulu,  little 
Bilali,  and  Majwara  were  seen  racing  the  herds  of  goats, 
sheep,  and  donkeys  which  belonged  to  the  caravan,  and 
the  animals  even  seemed  to  share  the  general  joy. 

Nature,  also — proud,  wild  nature — with  the  lofty 
azure  dome  upheaved  into  infinity — with  her  breadth 
and  depth  of  vivid  greenness  and  enormous  vastness 
on  our  left — with  her  immense  sheet  of  bright,  glancing 
water — with  her  awful  and  intense  serenity — she  par- 
took of  and  added  to  our  joy. 

About  10  a.m.  we  arrived  at  Kirindo's,  an  old  chief, 
noted  for  his  singular  kindness  to  Dr.  Livingstone, 
while  he  bore  animosity  to  the  Arabs.  To  the  Arabs 
this  was  unaccountable — to  the  Doctor  it  was  plain  : 
he  had  but  spoken  kind  and  sincere  words,  while  all 
the  Arabs  spoke  to  him  as  if  he  were  not  even  a  man, 
least  of  all  a  chief. 

Kirindo's  place  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  Liuche,  which 
is  very  wide ;  the  river  oozes  out  through  a  forest  of 
eschinomenae  (pith  tree).  This  was  a  rendezvous  agreed 
upon  between  shore  and  lake  parties,  that  the  canoes 
might  all  cross  to  the  other  side,  distant  a  mile  and  a 
half.  The  mouth  of  the  Liuche  forms  the  Bay  of 
Ukaranga,  so  named  because  on  the  other  side,  whither 
we  were  about  to  cross  our  party,  was  situated  the 
village  of  Ukaranga,  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  lake. 
All  the  baggage  was  taken  out  of  the  largest  canoe, 
and  stowed  snugly  in  the  smaller  one,  and  a  few  select 
oarsmen  having  taken  seats,  pushed  off  with  the  Doctor 


670  HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 

on  board,  who  was  to  superintend  pitching  the  encamp- 
ment at  Ukaranga ;  while  I  remained  behind  to  bind 
the  fractious  and  ill-natured  donkeys,  and  stow  them 
away  in  the  bottom  of  the  large  canoe,  that  no  danger 
of  upsetting  might  be  incurred,  and  a  consequent  gob- 
bling-up  by  hungry  crocodiles,  which  were  all  about  us 
waiting  their  opportunity.  The  flock  of  goats  were 
then  embarked,  and  as  many  of  our  people  as  could  be 
got  in.  About  thirty  still  remained  behind  with  myself, 
for  whom  my  canoe  was  to  return. 

We  all  arrived  safe  at  Ukaranga,  though  we  got 
dangerously  near  a  herd  of  hippopotami.  The  crossing 
of  the  wide  mouth  (the  Liuche  being  then  in  flood) 
was  effected  in  about  four  hours. 

The  next  day,  in  the  same  order  as  on  our  departure 
from  Ujiji,  we  pursued  our  way  south,  the  lake  party 
keeping  as  closely  as  possible  to  the  shore,  yet,  when 
feasible,  wind  and  weather  permitting,  struck  off  boldly 
across  the  numerous  small  bays  which  indent  the  shores 
of  the  Tanganika.  The  shores  were  beautifully  green, 
the  effect  of  the  late  rains  ;  the  waters  of  the  lake  were 
a  faithful  reflex  of  the  blue  firmament  above.  The 
hippopotami  were  plenty.  Those  noticed  on  this  day 
were  colored  \\  ith  reddish  rings  round  the  base  of  their 
ears  and  on  the  neck.  One  monster,  coming  up  rather 
late,  was  surprised  by  the  canoe  making  full  for  him,  and 
in  great  fright  took  a  tremendous  dive  which  showed 
the  whole  length  of  his  body.  Half  way  between 
the  mouth  of  the  Malagarazi  and  that  of  the  Liuche  we 
saw  a  camp  on  shore — that  of  Mohammed  bin  Gharib,  a 
Msawahili,  who  figured  often  in  Livingstone's  verbal 
narrative  to  me  of  his  adventures  and  travels  as  one  of 
the  kindest  and  best  of  the  Moslems  in  Central  Africa. 
He  appeared  to  me  a  kindly  disposed  man,  with  a  face 


Deo.  1871.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNIANYEMBE. 


671 


seldom  seen,  having  the  stamp  of  an  unusual  character- 
istic on  it — that  of  sincerity. 

The  vegetation  of  the  shores  as  we  proceeded  was 
truly  tropical,  each  curve  revealed  new  beauties.  With 
the  soft  chalky  stone,  of  which  most  of  the  cliffs  and 
bluffs  are  made,  seen  as  we  neared  the  mouth  of  the 
Malagarazi,  the  surf  has  played  strange  freaks. 

We  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Malagarazi  about 
2  p.m.,  having  rowed  eighteen  miles  from  Ukaranga. 
The  shore  party  arrived,  very  much  fatigued,  about 

5  P.M. 

The  next  day  was  employed  in  crossing  the  caravan 
across  the  broad  mouth  of  the  Malagarazi  to  our  camp, 
a  couple  of  miles  north  of  the  river.  This  is  a  river 
which  a  civilised  community  would  find  of  immense 
advantage  for  shortening  the  distance  between  the 
Tanganika  and  the  coast.  Nearly  one  hundred  miles 
might  be  performed  by  this  river,  which  is  deep  enough 
at  all  seasons  to  allow  navigation  as  far  as  Kiala,  in 
Uvinza,  whence  a  straight  road  might  be  easily  made  to 
Unyanyembe.  Missionaries  also  might  reap  the  same 
benefit  from  it  for  conversion-tou^s  to  Uvinza,  Uhha, 
and  Ugala.  Pursuing  our  way  on  the  30th,  and 
rounding  the  picturesque  capes  of  Kagongo,  Mviga  and 
Kivoe,  we  came,  after  about  three  hours'  rowing,  in  sight 
of  villages  at  the  mouth  of  the  swift  and  turbid  Rugufu. 
Here  we  had  again  to  transport  the  caravan  over  the 
crocodile-infested  mouth  of  the  river. 

On  the  morning  of  the  31st  we  sent  a  canoe  with 
men  to  search  for  food  in  the  two  or  three  villages  that 
were  visible  on  the  other  side.  Four  doti  purchased 
just  sufficient  for  four  days  for  our  caravan  of  forty- 
eight  persons.    We  then  got  under  weigh,  having 


572 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


informed  the  kirangozi  that  Urimba  was  our  destination, 
and  bidding  him  keep  as  closely  as  possible  to  the  lake 
shore,  where  it  was  practicable,  but  if  not,  to  make  the 
best  he  could  of  it.  From  the  debouchement  of  the 
Rugufu,  the  head-waters  of  which  we  had  crossed  on  our 
random  route  to  Ujiji,  to  Urimba,  a  distance  of  six  days 
by  water,  there  are  no  villages,  and  consequently  no 
food.  The  shore  party,  however,  before  leaving  Ujiji, 
had  eight  days'  rations,  and  on  this  morning  four  days', 
distributed  to  each  person,  and  therefore  was  in  no 
danger  of  starvation  should  the  mountain  headlands, 
now  unfolding,  abrupt  and  steep,  one  after  another, 
prevent  them  from  communicating  with  us.  It  must 
be  understood  that  such  a  journey  as  this  had  never 
been  attempted  before  by  any  Arab  or  Msawahili,  and 
every  step  taken  was  in  sheer  ignorance  of  where  the 
road  would  lead  the  men  ashore.  Rounding  Kivoe's 
steep  promontory,  whose  bearded  ridge  and  rugged 
slope,  wooded  down  to  the  water's  edge,  whose  exqui- 
site coves  and  quiet  recesses,  might  well  have  evoked 
a  poetical  effusion  to  one  so  inclined,  we  dared  the 
chopping  waves  of  Kivoe's  bay,  and  stood  direct  for 
the  next  cape,  Mizohazy,  behind  which,  owing  to  wind 
and  wave,  we  were  compelled  to  halt  for  the  night. 

After  Mizohazy  is  the  bold  cape  of  Kabogo — not  the 
terrible  Kabogo  around  whose  name  mystery  has  been 
woven  by  the  superstitious  natives — not  the  Kabogo 
whose  sullen  thunder  and  awful  roar  were  heard  when 
crossing  the  Rugufu  on  our  flight  from  the  Wahha — 
but  a  point  in  Ukaranga  on  whose  hard  and  uninviting 
rocks  many  a  canoe  has  been  wrecked.  We  passed 
close  to  its  forbidding  walls,  thankful  for  the  calm  of 
the  Tanganika.    Near  Kabogo  are  some  very  fine 


Dec.  1871.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE. 


573 


mvule  trees,  well  adapted  for  canoe  building,  and  there 
are  no  loud-mouthed  natives  about  to  haggle  for  the 
privilege  of  cutting  them. 

Along  the  water's  edge,  and  about  three  feet  above  it, 
was  observed  very  clearly  on  the  smooth  face  of  the 
rocky  slopes  of  Kabogo  the  high-water  mark  of  the 
lake.  This  went  to  show  that  the  Tanganika,  during 
the  rainy  season,  rises  about  three  feet  above  its  dry 
season  level,  and  that,  during  the  latter  season,  evapora- 
tion reduces  it  to  its  normal  level.  The  number  of 
rivers  which  we  passed  on  this  journey  enabled  me  to 
observe  whether,  as  I  was  told,  there  was  any  current 
setting  north.  It  was  apparent  to  me  that,  while  the 
south-west,  south,  or  south-east  winds  blew,  the  brown 
flood  of  the  rivers  swept  north ;  but  it  happened  that, 
while  passing,  once  or  twice,  the  mouths  of  rivers,  after 
a  puff  from  the  north-west  and  north,  that  the  muddied 
waters  were  seen  southward  of  the  mouths,  from  which 
I  conclude  that  there  is  no  current  in  the  Tanganika 
except  such  as  is  caused  by  the  fickle  wind. 

Finding  a  snug  nook  of  a  bay  at  a  place  called 
Sigunga,  we  put  in  for  lunch.  An  island  at  the  mouth 
of  the  bay  suggested  to  our  minds  that  this  was  a 
beautiful  spot  for  a  mission  station  ;  the  grandly  sloping 
hills  in  the  background,  with  an  undulating  shelf  of 
land  well-wooded  between  them  and  the  bay,  added 
to  the  attractions  of  such  a  spot.  The  island,  capable 
of  containing  quite  a  large  village,  and  perfectly  defen- 
sible, might,  for  prudence'  sake,  contain  the  mission 
and  its  congregation ;  the  land-locked  bay  would  pro- 
tect their  fishery  and  trade  vessels  :  the  fertile  ground 
between  the  hills  and  the  bay  would  more  than  sustain 
a  hundred  times  the  number  of  the  population  of  the 
island.    Wood  for  building  their  canoes  and  houses  is 


674 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


close  at  hand ;  the  neighboring  country  would  afford 
game  in  abundance  ;  and  the  docile  and  civil  people  of 
Ukaranga  but  waited  religious  shepherds. 

From  beautiful  Sigunga,  after  a  brief  halt,  we  set  off, 
and,  after  three  hours,  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the 
River  Uwelasia.  Hippopotami  and  crocodiles  being 
numerous,  we  amused  ourselves  by  shooting  at  them, 
having  also  a  hope  of  attracting  the  attention  of  our 
shore  party,  the  sound  of  whose  guns  we  had  not 
heard  since  leaving  the  Rugufu. 

On  the  3rd  of  January  we  left  Uwelasia,  and,  passing 
by  Cape  Herembe,  were  in  the  Bay  of  Tongwe.  This 
bay  is  about  twenty -five  miles  broad,  and  stretches  from 
Cape  Herembe  to  Cape  Tongwe.  Finding  themselves 
so  near  their  destination,  Urimba  being  but  six  miles 
from  Herembe  Point,  the  men  of  both  boats  bent  them- 
selves to  their  oars,  and,  with  shouts,  songs,  and  laughter, 
encouraged  each  other  to  do  their  utmost.  The  flags  of 
the  two  great  Anglo-Saxon  nations  rippled  and  played 
in  the  soft  breeze,  sometimes  drawing  near  caressingly 
together,  again  bending  away,  like  two  lovers  coy  to 
unite.  The  tight  little  boat  of  the  Doctor  would  keep 
ahead,  and  the  crimson  and  crossed  flag  of  England 
would  wave  before  me,  and  it  seemed  to  say  to  the 
beautiful  laggard  astern,  "  Come  on,  come  on  ;  England 
leads  the  way."  But  was  it  not  England's  place  to  be 
in  the  front  here  ?  She  won  the  right  to  it  by  discovering 
the  Tanganika ;  America  came  but  second. 

Urimba,  though  a  large  district  of  Kawendi,  has  a 
village  of  the  same  name  peopled  by  refugees  from 
Yombeh,  who  found  the  delta  of  the  Loajeri,  though 
the  unhealthiest  of  spots — equal  to  that  of  the  Rusizi — 
far  preferable  to  the  neighbourhood  of  Sultan  Pumburu, 
of  Southern  Kawendi.    A  good  chase  by  the  victors 


Jan.  167*.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNTANYEMBE. 


575 


seems  to  have  given  a  shock  to  their  systems,  for  they 
are  very  timid  and  distrustful  of  strangers,  and  would 
by  no  means  permit  us  to  enter  their  village,  of  which, 
to  say  the  truth,  I  was  very  glad,  after  a  glance  at  the 
reeking  corruption  on  which  they  were  encamped.  In 
the  immediate  neighbourhood — nay,  for  a  couple  of 
miles  on  either  side — I  should  suppose  that  to  a  white 
man  it  were  death  to  sleep  a  single  night.  Leading  the 
way  south  of  the  village,  I  found  a  fit  camping-place  at 
the  extreme  south-east  corner  of  Tongwe  Bay,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  due  west  of  the  lofty  peak  of  Kivanga, 
or  Kakungu.  By  an  observation  taken  by  the  Doctor, 
we  found  ourselves  to  be  in  latitude  5°  54'  south. 

None  of  the  natives  had  heard  of  our  shore  party, 
and,  as  the  delta  of  the  Loajeri  and  Mogambazi  extended 
for  about  fifteen  miles,  and  withal  was  the  most  im- 
passable of  places,  being  perfectly  flat,  overgrown  with 
the  tallest  of  matete,  eschinomenae,  and  thorny  bush, 
and  flooded  with  water,  it  was  useless  to  fatigue  our 
men  searching  for  the  shore  party  in  such  an  inhos- 
pitable country.  No  provisions  were  procurable,  for 
the  villages  were  in  a  state  of  semi-starvation,  the 
inhabitants  living  from  hand  to  mouth  on  what  re- 
luctant Fortune  threw  into  their  nets. 

The  second  day  of  our  arrival  at  Urimba  I  struck  off 
into  the  interior  with  my  gun-bearer,  Kalulu,  carrying 
the  Doctor's  splendid  double-barreled  rifle  (a  "  Reilly,' 
No.  12),  on  the  search  for  venison.  After  walking  about 
a  mile  I  came  to  a  herd  of  zebras.  By  creeping  on  all-fours 
I  managed  to  come  within  one  hundred  yards  of  them ; 
but  I  was  in  a  bad  spot — low  prickly  shrubs  ;  and  tsetse 
flies  alighting  on  the  rifle-sight,  biting  my  nose,  dashing 
into  my  eyes,  completely  disconcerted  me ;  and,  to  add 
to  my  discontent,  my  efforts  to  disengage  myself  from 


676 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  thorns  alarmed  the  zebras,  which  all  stood  facing  tne 
suspicious  object  in  the  bush.  I  fired  at  the  breast  of 
one,  but,  as  might  be  expected,  missed.  The  zebras 
galloped  away  to  about  three  hundred  yards  off,  and  ] 
dashed  into  the  open,  and,  hastily  cocking  the  left-hand 
trigger,  aimed  at  a  proud  fellow  trotting  royally  before 
his  fellows,  and  by  good  chance  sent  a  bullet  through 
his  heart.  A  fortunate  shot  also  brought  down  a  huge 
goose,  which  had  a  sharp  horny  spur  on  the  fore  part 
of  each  wing.  This  supply  of  meat  materially  con- 
tributed towards  the  provisioning  of  the  party  for  the 
transit  of  the  unknown  land  that  lay  between  us  and 
Mrera,  in  Rusawa,  Kawendi. 

It  was  not  until  the  third  day  of  our  arrival  at  our 
camp  at  Urimba  that  our  shore  party  arrived.  They 
had  perceived  our  immense  flag  hoisted  on  a  twenty- 
feet  long  bamboo  above  the  tallest  tree  near  our  camp 
as  they  surmounted  the  sharp  lofty  ridge  behind 
Nerembe,  fifteen  miles  off,  and  had  at  first  taken  it  for 
an  immense  bird ;  but  there  were  sharp  eyes  in  the 
crowd,  and,  guided  by  it,  they  came  to  camp,  greeted 
as  only  lost  and  found  men  are  greeted. 

I  suffered  from  another  attack  of  fever  at  this  camp, 
brought  on  by  the  neighborhood  of  the  vile  delta,  the 
look  of  which  sickened  the  very  heart  in  me. 

On  the  7th  January  we  struck  camp,  and  turned  our 
faces  eastward,  and  for  me,  home !  Yet  regretfully  ! 
There  had  been  enough  happiness  and  pleasure,  and 
pleasantest  of  social  companionship  found  on  the  shores 
of  the  lake  for  me.  I  had  seen  enough  lovely  scenes 
which,  siren-like,  invited  one  to  quiet  rest ;  gentle 
scenes,  where  there  was  neither  jar  nor  tumult,  neither 
strife  nor  defeat,  neither  hope  nor  disappointment,  bu4 
rest — a  drowsy,  indolent,  yet  pleasant  rest.    And  only  a 


Jan.  1872.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  577 

few  drawbacks  to  these.  There  was  fever  ;  there  were 
no  books,  no  newspapers,  no  wife  of  my  own  race  and 
blood,  no  theatres,  no  hotels,  no  restaurants,  no  East 
River  oysters,  no  mince-pies,  neither  buckwheat  cakes, 
nor  anything  much  that  was  good  for  a  cultivated  palate 
to  love.  So,  in  turning  to  say  farewell  to  the  then 
placid  lake  and  the  great  blue  mountains,  that  grew 
bluer  as  they  receded  on  either  hand,  I  had  the  courage 
to  utter  that  awful  word  tearlessly,  and  without  one 
sigh. 

Our  road  led  up  through  the  valley  of  the  Loajeri, 
after  leaving  its  delta,  a  valley  growing  ever  narrower, 
until  it  narrowed  into  a  ravine  choked  by  the  now 
roaring,  bellowing  river,  whose  resistless  rush  seemed 
to  affect  the  very  air  we  breathed.  It  was  getting 
oppressive,  this  narrowing  ravine,  and  opportunely  the 
road  breasted  a  knoll,  then  a  terrace,  then  a  hill,  and 
lastly  a  mountain,  where  we  halted  to  encamp.  As  we 
prepared  to  select  a  camping  place,  the  Doctor  silently 
pointed  forward,  and  suddenly  a  dead  silence  reigned 
everywhere.  The  quinine  which  I  had  taken  in  the 
morning  seemed  to  affect  me  in  every  crevice  of  my 
brain  ;  but  a  bitter  evil  remained,  and,  though  I 
trembled  under  the  heavy  weight  of  the  "Reilly" 
rifle,  I  crept  forward  to  where  the  Doctor  was  pointing. 
I  found  myself  looking  down  a  steep  ravine,  on  the 
other  bank  of  which  a  fine  buffalo  cow  was  scrambling 
upward.  She  had  just  reached  the  summit,  and  was 
turning  round  to  survey  her  enemy,  when  I  succeeded 
in  planting  a  shot  just  behind  the  shoulder-blade,  and 
close  to  the  spine,  evoking  from  her  a  deep  bellow 
of  pain.  "  She  is  shot !  she  is  shot !"  exclaimed  the 
Doctor ;  "  that  is  a  sure  sign  you  have  hit  her."  And 
the  men  even  raised  a  shout  at  the  prospect  of  meat. 

2  p 


578 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


A  second,  planted  in  her  spine,  brought  her  to  her 
knees,  and  a  third  ended  her.  We  thus  had  another 
supply  of  provisions,  which,  cut  up  and  dried  over  a 
fire,  as  the  Wangwana  are  accustomed  to  do,  would 
carry  them  far  over  the  unpeopled  wilderness  before  us. 
For  the  Doctor  and  myself,  we  had  the  tongue,  the 
hump,  and  a  few  choice  pieces  salted  down,  and  in  a 
few  days  had  prime  corned  beef.  It  is  not  inapt  to 
state  that  the  rifle  had  more  commendations  bestowed 
on  it  than  the  hunter  by  the  Wangwana. 

The  next  day  we  continued  the  march  eastward, 
under  the  guidance  of  our  kirangozi ;  but  it  was  evi- 
dent, by  the  road  he  led  us,  that  he  knew  nothing  of 
the  country,  though,  through  his  volubility,  he  had 
led  us  to  believe  that  he  knew  all  about  Ngondo, 
Yombeh,  and  Pumburu's  districts.  When  recalled  from 
the  head  of  the  caravan,  we  were  about  to  descend 
into  the  rapid  Loajeri,  and  beyond  it  were  three  ranges 
of  impassable  mountains,  which  we  were  to  cross  in  a 
north-north-easterly  direction,  quite  out  of  our  road. 
After  consulting  with  the  Doctor,  I  put  myself  at  the 
head  of  the  caravan,  and  following  the  spine  of  the 
ridge,  struck  off  due  east,  regardless  of  how  the  road 
ran.  At  intervals  a  travelled  road  crossed  our  path, 
and,  after  following  it  a  while,  we  came  to  the  ford  of 
the  Loajeri.  The  Loajeri  rises  south  and  south-east  of 
Kakungu  Peak.  We  made  the  best  we  could  of  the  road 
after  crossing  the  river,  until  we  reached  the  main  path 
that  runs  from  Karah  to  Ngondo  and  Pumburu,  in 
Southern  Kawendi. 

On  the  9th,  soon  after  leaving  camp,  we  left  the  tra- 
velled path,  and  made  for  a  gap  in  the  arc  of  hills 
before  us,  as  Pumburu  was  at  war  with  the  people  of 
Manya  Msenge,  a  district  of  Northern  Kawendi.  The 


Jan.  1872.]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE. 


579 


country  teemed  with  game — the  buffaloes  and  zebras 
were  plentiful.  Among  the  conspicuous  trees  were  the 
hyphene  and  borassus  palm  trees,  and  a  tree  bearing  a 
fruit  about  the  size  of  a  600-pounder  cannon-ball,  called 
by  some  natives  "mabyah,"*  according  to  the  Doctor, 
the  seeds  of  which  are  roasted  and  eaten.  They  are 
not  to  be  recommended  as  food  to  Europeans. 

On  the  10th,  putting  myself  at  the  head  of  my  men, 
with  my  compass  in  hand,  I  led  the  way  east  for  three 
hours.  A  beautiful  park  land  was  revealed  to  us  ;  but 
the  grass  was  very  tall,  and  the  rainy  season,  which  had 
commenced  in  earnest,  made  my  work  excessively  dis- 
agreeable. Through  this  tall  grass,  which  was  as  high  as 
my  throat,  I  had  to  force  my  way,  compass  in  hand,  to 
lead  the  Expedition,  as  there  was  not  the  least  sign  of  a 
road,  and  we  were  now  in  an  untra veiled  country.  We 
made  our  camp  on  a  beautiful  little  stream  flowing 
north  ;  one  of  the  feeders  of  the  Rugufu  River. 

The  11th  still  saw  me  plunging  through  the  grass, 
which  showered  drops  of  rain  on  me  every  time  I  made 
a  step  forward.  In  two  hours  we  crossed  a  small 
stream,  with  slippery  syenitic  rocks  in  its  bed,  showing 
the  action  of  furious  torrents.  Mushrooms  were  in 
abundance,  and  very  large.  In  crossing,  an  old  pagazi 
of  Unyamwezi,  weather-beaten,  uttered,  in  a  deplorable 
tone,  "My  kibuyu  is  dead;"  by  which  he  meant  that 
he  had  slipped,  and  in  falling  had  broken  his  gourd, 
which  in  Kisawahili  is  "  kibuyu." 

On  the  eastern  bank  we  halted  for  lunch,  and,  after 
an  hour  and  a  half's  march,  arrived  at  another 
stream,  which  I  took  to  be  the  Mtambu,  at  first,  from 
the  similarity  of  the  land,  though  my  map  informed  me 

*  In  the  Kisawahili  tongue,  "  mabyah,"  "  mbyah,"  "  byah,"  mean 
bad,  unpleasant. 


580 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


that  it  was  impossible.  The  scenery  around  was  very 
similar,  and  to  the  north  we  had  sighted  a  similar 
tabular  hill  to  the  "  Magdala  "  Mount  I  had  discovered 
north  of  Imrera,  while  going  to  the  Malagarazi. 
Though  we  had  only  travelled  three  and  a  half  hours 
the  Doctor  was  very  tired,  as  the  country  was  exceedingly 
rough. 

The  next  day,  crossing  several  ranges,  with  glorious 
scenes  of  surpassing  beauty  everywhere  around  us,  we 
came  in  view  of  a  mighty  and  swift  torrent,  whose  bed 
was  sunk  deep  between  enormous  lofty  walls  of  sand- 
stone rock,  where  it  roared  and  brawled  with  the  noise 
of  a  little  Niagara. 

Having  seen  our  camp  prepared  on  a  picturesque 
knoll,  I  thought  I  would  endeavor  to  procure  some 
meat,  which  this  interesting  region  seemed  to  promise. 
I  sallied  out  with  my  little  Winchester  along  the  banks 
of  the  river  eastward.  I  travelled  for  an  hour  or  two, 
the  prospect  getting  more  picturesque  and  lovely,  and 
then  went  up  a  ravine  which  looked  very  promising. 
Unsuccessful,  I  strode  up  the  bank,  and  my  astonish- 
ment may  be  conceived  when  I  found  myself  directly 
in  front  of  an  elephant,  who  had  his  large  broad  ears 
held  out  like  studding  sails — the  colossal  monster,  the 
incarnation  of  might  of  the  African  world.  Methought 
when  I  saw  his  trunk  stretched  forward,  like  a  warning 
finger,  that  I  heard  a  voice  say,  "  Siste,  Yenator  !"  But 
whether  it  did  not  proceed  from  my  imagination  or — 
No ;  I  believe  it  proceeded  from  Kalulu,  who  must  have 
shouted,  "  Tembo,  tembo  !  bana  yango  !"  "  Lo  !  an 
elephant!  an  elephant,  my  master !"  For  the  young 
rascal  had  fled  as  soon  as  he  had  witnessed  the  awful 
colossus  in  such  close  vicinage.  Recovering  from  my 
astonishment,  I  thought  it  prudent  to  retire  also — 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEM BE. 


581 


especially  with  a  pea-shooter  loaded  with  treacherous 
sawdust  cartridges  in  my  hand.  As  I  looked  behind,  I 
saw  him  waving  his  trunk,  which  I  understood  to 
mean,  "  Good-bye,  young  fellow,  it  is  lucky  for  you 
you  went  in  time,  for  I  was  going  to  pound  you  to  a 
jelly." 

As  I  was  congratulating  myself,  a  wasp  darted 
fiercely  at  me  and  planted  its  sting  in  my  neck,  and  for 
that  afternoon  my  anticipated  pleasures  were  dispelled. 
Arriving  at  camp  I  found  the  men  grumbling ;  their 
provisions  were  ended,  and  there  was  no  prospect  for 
three  days,  at  least,  of  procuring  any.  With  the  im- 
providence usual  with  the  gluttons,  they  had  eaten 
their  rations  of  grain,  all  their  store  of  zebra  and  dried 
buffalo  meat,  and  were  now  crying  out  that  they  were 
famished. 

The  tracks  of  animals  were  numerous,  but  it  being 
the  rainy  season  the  game  was  scattered  everywhere ; 
whereas,  had  we  travelled  during  the  dry  season 
through  these  forests  our  larders  might  have  been 
supplied  fresh  each  day. 

Some  time  about  6  p.m.,  as  the  Doctor  and  I  were 
taking  our  tea  outside  the  tent,  a  herd  of  elephants, 
twelve  in  number,  passed  about  800  yards  off.  Our 
fundi,  Asmani  and  Mabruki  Kisesa,  were  immediately 
despatched  in  pursuit.  I  would  have  gone  myself 
with  the  heavy  u  Reilly"  rifle,  only  I  was  too  much 
fatigued.  We  soon  heard  their  guns  firing,  and  hoped 
they  were  successful,  as  a  plentiful  supply  of  meat 
might  then  have  been  procured,  while  we  ourselves 
would  have  secured  one  of  the  elephant's  feet  for  a  nice 
delicate  roast ;  but  within  an  hour  they  returned  un- 
successful, having  only  drawn  blood,  some  of  which 
they  exhibited  to  us  on  a  leaf. 


582 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE, 


It  requires  a  very  good  rifle  to  kill  an  African 
elephant.  A  No.  8  bore  with  a  Fraser's  shell,  planted 
in  the  temple,  I  believe,  would  drop  an  elephant  each 
shot.  Faulkner  makes  some  extraordinary  statements, 
about  walking  up  in  front  of  an  elephant  and  planting 
a  bullet  in  his  forehead,  killing  him  instantly*  The 
tale,  however,  is  so  incredible  that  I  would  prefer  not  to 
believe  it ;  especially  when  he  states  that  the  imprint 
of  the  muzzle  of  his  rifle  was  on  the  elephant's  trunk. 
African  travellers — especially  those  with  a  taste  for  the 
chase — are  too  fond  of  relating  that  which  borders  on  the 
incredible  for  ordinary  men  to  believe  them.  Such 
stories  must  be  taken  with  a  large  grain  of  salt,  for 
the  sake  of  the  amusement  they  afford  to  readers  at 
home.  In  future,  whenever  I  hear  a  man  state  how  he 
broke  the  back  of  an  antelope  at  600  yards,  I  shall 
incline  to  believe  a  cipher  had  been  added  by  a  slip 
of  the  pen,  or  attribute  it  to  a  typographical  error, 
for  this  is  almost  an  impossible  feat  in  an  African  forest. 
It  may  be  done  once,  but  it  could  never  be  done  twice 
running.  An  antelope  makes  a  very  small  target  at 
600  yards  distance ;  but,  then,  all  these  stories  belong 
by  right  divine  to  the  chasseur  who  travels  to  Africa 
for  the  sake  only  of  sport.  I  have  heard  young 
officers  on  the  Zanzibar  coast,  who  were  but  just  past 
their  teens,  relating  with  an  astonishing  glibness  and 
volubility  the  tremendous  adventures  they  had  had  with 
elephants,  leopards,  lions,  and  what  not.  If  they  shot 
at  a  hippopotamus  in  the  river,  they  had  killed  him ;  if 
they  had  met  an  antelope  near  the  coast,  it  was  almost 
sure  to  be  a  lion,  and  they  had  bowled  him  over ;  if 
they  had  seen  an  elephant  in  a  zoological  garden,  it 
was  sure  to  be  told  that  he  had  been  met  in  Africa,  and 
"  bagged,  sir,  without  any  trouble ;  and  I  have  the  tusks 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  588 

at  home  now,  which  I  can  show,  if  you  like,  some  day." 
It  is  a  disease,  a  mania  with  some  people,  that  they 
never  can  relate  the  positive,  literal,  exact  truth.  Tra- 
velling in  Africa  is  adventurous  enough  as  it  is,  with- 
out any  fiction.  Mostly  all  men  who  were  with  the 
Abyssinian  Expedition  will  recollect  that  wonderful 
k< Major"  who  was  accustomed  to  unfold  the  dire,  the 
terrible,  and  the  extraordinary,  in  stories  by  the  bushel. 
1  gave  that  gentleman  one  day  a  buffalo  skin  which  I 
had  received  from  Satanta,  chief  of  the  Kiowas,  near 
Medicine  Lodge,  Kansas ;  yet  the  next  day  I  heard  it 
given  out  that  he  bad  shot  the  buffalo  on  an  American 
prairie  with  a  pistol  bullet.  This  is  only  an  illustration 
of  the  imaginary  which  many  travellers  love  to  relate  ; 
it  is  a  tendency  with  some  men  to  exaggerate.  South 
and  North  African  hunters  are  famous  for  their  variety 
of  hunting  anecdotes,  which  I  consider  to  have  been 
simply  flourishes  of  the  pen. 

On  the  13th  we  continued  our  march  across  several 
ridges;  and  the  series  of  ascents  and  descents  revealed 
to  us  valleys  and  mountains  never  before  explored ; 
streams  rushing  northward,  swollen  by  the  rains,  and 
grand  primeval  forests,  in  whose  twilight  shade  no 
white  man  ever  walked  before. 

On  the  14th  the  same  scenes  were  witnessed — an 
unbroken  series  of  longitudinal  ridges,  parallel  one 
with  another  and  with  Lake  Tanganika.  Eastward  the 
faces  of  these  ridges  present  abrupt  scarps  and  terraces, 
rising  from  deep  valleys,  while  the  western  declivities 
have  gradual  slopes.  These  are  the  peculiar  features 
of  Ukawendi,  the  eastern  watershed  of  the  Tanganika. 

In  one  of  these  valleys  on  this  day  we  came  across  a 
colony  of  reddish-bearded  monkeys,  whose  howls,  or 
bellowing,  rang  amongst  the  cliffs  as  they  discovered 


584 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  caravan.  I  was  not  able  to  approach  them,  for 
they  scrambled  up  trees  and  barked  their  defiance 
at  me,  then  bounded  to  the  ground  as  I  still  persisted 
in  advancing ;  and  they  would  have  soon  drawn  me  in 
pursuit  if  I  had  not  suddenly  remembered  that  my 
absence  was  halting  the  Expedition. 

About  noon  we  sighted  our  Magdala — the  grand 
towering  mount  whose  upright  frowning  mass  had 
attracted  our  eyes,  as  it  lifted  itself  from  above  the 
plain  in  all  its  grandeur,  when  we  were  hurrying  along 
the  great  ridge  of  Rusawa  towards  the  "  Crocodile ' 
River.  We  recognized  the  old,  mystic  beauty  of  the 
tree-clad  plain  around  it.  Then  it  was  bleached,  and  a 
filmy  haze  covered  it  lovingly  ;  now  it  was  vivid  green- 
ness. Every  vegetable,  plant,  herb,  and  tree,  had  sprung 
into  quick  life — the  effect  of  the  rains.  Rivers  that 
ran  not  in  those  hot  summer  days  now  fumed  and 
rushed  impetuously  between  thick  belts  of  mighty  tim- 
ber, brawling  hoarsely  in  the  glades.  We  crossed  many 
of  these  streams,  all  of  which  are  feeders  of  the  Rugufu. 

Beautiful,  bewitching  Ukawendi !  By  what  shall  I 
gauge  the  loveliness  of  the  wild,  free,  luxuriant,  spon- 
taneous nature  within  its  boundaries  ?  By  anything 
in  Europe  ?  No.  By  anything  in  Asia  ?  Where  ? 
India,  perhaps.  Yes ;  or  say  Mingrelia  and  Imeritia. 
For  there  we  have  foaming  rivers ;  we  have  pic- 
turesque hillocks;  we  have  bold  hills,  ambitious 
mountains,  and  broad  forests,  with  lofty  solemn  rows 
of  trees,  with  clean  straight  stems,  through  which  you 
can  see  far,  lengthy  vistas,  as  you  see  here.  Only  in 
Ukawendi  you  can  almost  behold  the  growth  of  ve- 
getation ;  the  earth  is  so  generous,  nature  so  kind  and 
loving,  that  without  entertaining  any  aspiration  for  a 
residence,  or  a  wish  to  breathe  the  baleful  atmosphere 


Jan.  1872.]        OUL  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE. 


585 


longer  than  is  absolutely  necessary,  one  feels  insensibly 
drawn  towards  it,  as  the  thought  creeps  into  his  mind, 
that  though  all  is  foul  beneath  the  captivating, 
glamorous  beauty  of  the  land,  the  foulness  might  be 
removed  by  civilized  people,  and  the  whole  region  made 
as  healthy  as  it  is  productive.  Even  while  staggering 
under  the  pressure  of  the  awful  sickness,  with  mind 
getting  more  and  more  embittered,  brain  sometimes 
reeling  with  the  shock  of  the  constantly  recurring 
fevers — though  I  knew  how  the  malaria,  rising  out  of 
that  very  fairness,  was  slowly  undermining  my  con- 
stitution, and  insidiously  sapping  the  powers  of  mind 
and  body — I  regarded  the  alluring  face  of  the  land 
with  a  fatuous  love,  and  felt  a  certain  sadness  steal 
over  me  as  each  day  I  was  withdrawing  myself  from  it, 
and  felt  disposed  to  quarrel  with  the  fate  that  seemed 
to  eject  me  out  of  Ukawendi. 

On  the  ninth  day  of  our  march  from  the  shores  of 
the  Tanganika  we  again  perceived  our  "Magdala 
Mount,"  rising  like  a  dark  cloud  to  the  north-east,  by 
which  I  knew  that  we  were  approaching  Imrera,  and 
that  our  Icarian  attempt  to  cross  the  uninhabited  jungle 
of  Ukawendi  would  soon  be  crowned  with  success. 
Against  the  collective  counsel  of  the  guides,  and  hypo- 
thetical suggestions  of  the  tired  and  hungry  souls  of 
our  Expedition,  I  persisted  in  being  guided  only  by 
the  compass  and  my  chart.  The  guides  strenuously 
strove  to  induce  me  to  alter  my  course  and  strike  in 
a  south-west  direction,  which,  had  I  listened  to  them, 
would  have  undoubtedly  taken  me  to  South-western 
Ukonongo,  or  North-eastern  Ufipa.  The  veteran 
and  experienced  soldiers  asked  mournfully  if  I  were 
determined  to  kill  them  with  famine,  as  the  road  I 
should  have  taken  was  north-east;  but  I  preferred 


586 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


putting  my  trust  in  the  compass.  No  sun  shone  upon 
us  as  we  threaded  our  way  through  the  primeval  forest, 
by  clumps  of  jungle,  across  streams,  up  steep  ridges, 
and  down  into  deep  valleys.  A  thick  haze  covered  the 
forests ;  rain  often  pelted  us ;  the  firmament  was  an 
unfathomable  depth  of  grey  vapor.  The  Doctor  had 
perfect  confidence  in  me,  and  I  held  on  my  way. 

As  soon  as  we  arrived  at  our  camp  the  men  scattered 
themselves  through  the  forest  to  search  for  food.  A 
grove  of  singwe  trees  was  found  close  by.  Mush- 
rooms grew  in  abundance,  and  these  sufficed  to  appease 
the  gnawing  hunger  from  which  the  people  suffered. 
Had  it  not  been  such  rainy  weather  I  should  have  been 
enabled  to  procure  game  for  the  camp ;  but  the  fatigue 
which  I  suffered,  and  the  fever  which  enervated  me, 
utterly  prevented  me  from  moving  out  of  the  camp 
after  we  once  came  to  a  halt.  The  fear  of  lions,  which 
were  numerous  in  our  vicinity,  whose  terrible  roaring 
was  heard  by  day  and  by  night,  daunted  the  hunters  so 
much,  that  though  I  offered  five  doti  of  cloth  for  every 
animal  brought  to  camp,  none  dared  penetrate  the 
gloomy  glades,  or  awesome  belts  of  timber,  outside  the 
friendly  defence  of  the  camp. 

The  morning  of  the  tenth  day  I  assured  the  people 
that  we  were  close  to  food ;  cheered  the  most  amiable 
of  them  with  promise  of  abundant  provender,  and 
hushed  the  most  truculent  knaves  with  a  warning  not 
to  tempt  my  patience  too  much,  lest  we  came  to  angry 
blows ;  and  then  struck  away  east  by  north  through  the 
forest,  with  the  almost  exhausted  Expedition  dragging 
itself  weakly  and  painfully  behind  me.  It  was  a  most 
desperate  position  certainly,  and  I  pitied  the  poor  people 
far  more  than  they  pitied  themselves;  and  though  I 
fumed  and  stormed  in  their  presence  when  the}  were 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  587 


disposed  to  lie  down  and  give  up,  never  was  a  man 
further  from  doing  them  injury.  I  was  too  proud  of 
them ;  but  under  the  circumstances  it  was  dangerous — 
nay,  suicidal  —to  appear  doubtful  or  dubious  of  the  road. 
The  mere  fact  that  I  still  held  on  my  way  according  to 
the  Doctor  s  little  pearly  monitor  (the  compass)  had  a 
grand  moral  effect  on  them,  and  though  they  de- 
murred in  plaintive  terms  and  with  pinched  faces,  they 
followed  my  footsteps  with  a  trustfulness  which  quite 
affected  me. 

For  long  miles  we  trudged  over  smooth  sloping 
sward,  with  a  vision  of  forest  and  park-land  beauty 
on  our  right  and  left,  and  in  front  of  us,  such  as  is 
rarely  seen.  At  a  pace  that  soon  left  the  main  body 
of  the  Expedition  far  behind,  I  strode  on  with  a  few 
gallant  fellows,  who,  despite  their  heavy  loads,  kept 
pace  with  me.  After  a  couple  of  hours  we  were 
ascending  the  easy  slope  of  a  ridge,  which  promised 
to  decide  in  a  few  minutes  the  truth  or  the  inaccuracy 
of  my  chart.  Presently  we  arrived  at  the  eastern 
edge  of  the  ridge,  and  about  five  miles  away,  and 
1,000  feet  below  the  high  plateau  on  which  wre  stood, 
we  distinguished  the  valley  of  Imrera  ! 

By  noon  we  were  in  our  old  camp.  The  natives 
gathered  round,  bringing  supplies  of  food,  and  to  con- 
gratulate us  upon  having  gone  to  Ujiji  and  returned. 
But  it  was  long  before  the  last  member  of  the  Expedi- 
tion arrived.  The  Doctor's  feet  were  very  sore,  and 
bleeding  from  the  weary  march.  His  shoes  were  in  a 
very  worn-out  state,  and  he  had  so  cut  and  slashed  them 
with  a  knife  to  ease  his  blistered  feet,  that  any  man  oi 
our  force  would  have  refused  them  as  a  gift,  no  mattei 
how  ambitious  he  might  be  to  encase  his  feet  a  la 
Wasungu. 


588 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Asmani,  the  guide,  was  very  much  taken  aback  when 
he  discovered  that  the  tiny  compass  knew  the  way 
better  than  he  did,  and  he  declared  it  as  his  solemn 
opinion  that  it  could  not  lie.  He  suffered  much  in 
reputation  from  having  contested  the  palm  with  the 
"  little  thing,"  and  ever  afterwards  his  boasted  knowledge 
of  the  country  was  considerably  doubted. 

After  halting  a  day  to  recruit  ourselves,  we  continued 
our  journey  on  the  18th  January,  1872,  towards  Unya- 
nyembe.  A  few  miles  beyond  Imrera,  Asmani  lost  the 
road  again,  and  1  was  obliged  to  show  it  to  him,  by 
which  I  gained  additional  honor  and  credit  as  a  leader 
and  guide.  My  shoes  were  very  bad,  and  it  was  diffi- 
cult to  decide  whose  were  the  worst  in  condition,  the 
Doctor's  or  mine.  A  great  change  had  come  upon  the 
face  of  the  land  since  I  had  passed  northward  en  route 
to  Ujiji.  The  wild  grapes  now  hung  in  clusters  along 
the  road ;  the  corn  ears  were  advanced  enough  to  pluck 
and  roast  for  food ;  the  various  plants  shed  their  flowers  ; 
and  the  deep  woods  and  grasses  of  the  country  were 
greener  than  ever. 

On  the  19th  we  arrived  at  Mpokwas  deserted 
village.  The  Doctor's  feet  were  very  much  chafed 
and  sore  by  the  marching.  He  had  walked  on  foot  all 
the  way  from  Urimba,  though  he  owned  a  donkey  ; 
while  I,  considerably  to  my  shame  be  it  said,  had  ridden 
occasionally  to  husband  my  strength,  that  I  might  be 
enabled  to  hunt  after  arrival  at  camp. 

Two  huts  were  cleared  for  our  use,  but,  just  as  we 
had  made  ourselves  comfortable,  our  sharp-eyed  fellows 
had  discovered  several  herds  of  game  in  the  plain  west 
of  Mpokwa.  -Hastily  devouring  a  morsel  of  corn-bread 
with  coffee,  I  hastened  away,  with  Bilali  for  a  gun- 
bearer,  taking  with  me  the  famous  Reilly  rifle  of  the 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  5tf& 

Doctor  and  a  supply  of  Fraser's  shells.  After  plunging 
through  a  deep  stream,  and  getting  wet  again,  and 
pushing  my  way  through  a  dense  brake,  I  arrived  at  a 
thin  belt  of  forest,  through  which  I  was  obliged  to 
crawl,  and,  in  half  an  hour,  I  had  arrived  within  one 
hundred  and  forty  yards  of  a  group  of  zebras,  which  were 
playfully  biting  each  other  under  the  shade  of  a  large 
tree.  Suddenly  rising  up,  I  attracted  their  attention ; 
but  the  true  old  rifle  was  at  my  shoulder,  and  "  crack — 
crack  "  went  both  barrels,  and  two  fine  zebras,  a  male 
and  female,  fell  dead  under  the  tree  where  they  had 
stood.  In  a  few  seconds  their  throats  were  cut,  and, 
after  giving  the  signal  of  my  success,  I  was  soon  sur- 
rounded by  a  dozen  of  my  men,  who  gave  utterance  tc 
their  delight  by  fulsome  compliments  to  the  merits  of 
the  rifle,  though  very  few  to  me.  When  I  returned  to 
camp  with  the  meat  I  received  the  congratulations  of 
the  Doctor,  which  I  valued  far  higher,  as  he  knew  from 
long  experience  what  shooting  was. 

When  the  eatable  portions  of  the  two  zebras  were 
hung  to  the  scale,  we  found,  according  to  the  Doctor's 
own  figures,  that  we  had  719  lbs.  of  good  meat,  which, 
divided  among  forty-four  men,  gave  a  little  over  16  lbs. 
to  each  person.  Bombay,  especially,  was  very  happy, 
as  he  had  dreamed  a  dream  wherein  I  figured  promi- 
nently as  shooting  animals  down  right  and  left ;  and, 
when  he  had  seen  me  depart  with  that  wonderful  Reilly 
rifle,  he  had  not  entertained  a  doubt  of  my  success,  and, 
accordingly,  had  commanded  the  men  to  be  ready  to 
go  after  me,  as  soon  as  they  shouldr  hear  the  reports  of 
the  gun. 

The  following  is  quoted  from  my  diary : 
January  20th,  1872. — To-day  was  a  halt.    On  going 
out  for  a  hunt  I  saw  a  herd  of  eleven  giraffes.  After 


590 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


crossing  Mpokwa  stream  I  succeeded  in  getting  within 
one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  of  one  of  them,  and  fired 
at  it ;  but,  though  it  was  wounded,  I  did  not  succeed  in 
dropping  it,  though  I  desired  the  skin  of  one  of  them 
very  much. 

In  the  afternoon  I  went  out  to  the  east  of  the  village, 
and  came  to  a  herd  of  six  giraffes.  I  wounded  one  of 
them,  but  it  got  off,  despite  my  efforts. 

What  remarkable  creatures  they  are  !  How  beautiful 
their  large  limpid  eyes !  I  could  have  declared  on  oath 
that  both  shots  had  been  a  success,  but  they  sheered  off 
with  the  stately  movements  of  a  clipper  about  to  tack. 
When  they  ran  they  had  an  ungainly,  dislocated 
motion,  somewhat  like  the  contortions  of  an  Indian 
nautch  or  a  Theban  danseuse — a  dreamy,  undulating 
movement,  which  even  the  tail,  with  its  long  fringe  of 
black  hair,  seemed  to  partake  of. 

The  Doctor,  who  knew  how  to  console  an  ardent  but 
disappointed  young  hunter,  attributed  my  non-success 
to  shooting  with  leaden  balls,  which  were  too  soft  to 
penetrate  the  thick  hide  of  the  giraffes,  and  advised  me 
to  melt  my  zinc  canteens  w7ith  which  to  harden  the 
lead.  It  was  not  the  first  time  that  I  had  cause  to 
think  the  Doctor  an  admirable  travelling  companion ; 
none  knew  so  well  how  to  console  one  for  bad  luck — 
none  knew  so  well  how  to  elevate  one  in  his  own  mind. 
If  I  killed  a  zebra,  did  not  his  friend  Oswell — the  South 
African  hunter — and  himself  long  ago  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  zebra  meat  was  the  finest  in  Africa  ? 
If  I  shot  a  buffalo  cow,  she  was  sure  to  be  the  best  of 
her  kind,  and  her  horns  were  worth  while  carrying 
home  as  specimens ;  and  was  she  not  fat  ?  If  I  returned 
without  anything,  the  game  was  very  wild,  or  the 
people  had  made  a  noise,  and  the  game  had  been 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANTEMBE. 


591 


frightened;  and  who  could  stalk  animals  alieady 
alarmed  ?  Indeed,  he  was  a  most  considerate  com- 
panion, and,  knowing  him  to  be  literally  truthful,  I 
was  proud  of  his  praise  when  successful,  and  when  I 
failed  I  was  easily  consoled. 

Ibrahim,  the  old  pagazi  whose  feelings  had  been  so 
lacerated  in  Ukawendi,  when  his  ancient  kibuyu  broke, 
before  leaving  Ujiji  invested  his  cloth  in  a  slave 
from  Manyuema,  who  bore  the  name  of  "  Ulimengo," 
which  signifies  the  u  World."  As  we  approached 
Mpokwa,  Ulimengo  absconded  with  all  his  master's 
property,  consisting  of  a  few  cloths  and  a  bag  of  salt, 
which  he  had  thought  of  taking  to  Unyanyembe  for 
trade.  Ibrahim  was  inconsolable,  and  he  kept  lamenting 
his  loss  daily  in  such  lugubrious  tones  that  the  people, 
instead  of  sympathizing,  laughed  at  him.  I  asked  him 
why  he  purchased  such  a  slave,  and,  while  he  was  with 
him,  why  he  did  not  feed  him  ?  Replied  he,  tartly, 
"  Was  he  not  my  slave  ?  Was  not  the  cloth  with  which 
I  bought  him  mine  ?  If  the  cloth  was  my  own,  could  I 
not  purchase  what  I  liked  ?    Why  do  you  talk  so  ?" 

Ibrahim's  heart  was  made  glad  this  evening  by  the 
return  of  Ulimengo  with  the  salt  and  the  cloth,  and  the 
one-eyed  old  man  danced  with  his  great  joy,  and  came 
in  all  haste  to  impart  to  me  the  glad  news.  "  Lo,  the 
4  World '  has  come  back.  Sure.  My  salt  and  my  cloth 
are  with  him  also.  Sure."  To  which  I  replied,  that 
he  had  better  feed  him  in  future,  as  slaves  required 
food  as  well  as  their  masters. 

From  10  p.m.  to  midnight  the  Doctor  was  employed 
in  taking  observations  from  the  star  Canopus,  the  result 
of  which  was  that  he  ascertained  Mpokwa,  district  of 
Utanda,  Ukonongo,  to  be  in  S.  latitude  6°  18'  40". 
On  comparing  it  with  its  position  as  laid  down  in  my 


592 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


map  by  dead  reckoning,  I  found  we  differed  by  three 
miles ;  I  having  laid  it  down  at  6°  15'  south  latitude. 

The  day  following  was  a  halt.  The  Doctor's  feet 
were  so  inflamed  and  sore  that  he  could  not  bear  his 
shoes  on.  My  heels  were  also  raw,  and  I  viciously  cut 
large  circles  out  of  my  shoes  to  enable  me  to  move 
about. 

Having  converted  my  zinc  canteens  into  bullets,  and 
provided  myself  with  a  butcher  and  gun-bearer,  I  set 
out  for  the  lovely  park  land  and  plain  west  of  Mpokwa 
stream,  with  the  laudable  resolution  to  obtain  some- 
thing ;  and  seeing  nothing  in  the  plain,  I  crossed  over 
a  ridge,  and  came  to  a  broad  basin  covered  with  tall 
grass,  with  clumps  here  and  there  of  hyphene  palm, 
with  a  stray  mimosa  or  so  scattered  about.  Nibbling 
off  the  branches  of  the  latter,  I  saw  a  group  of  giraffes, 
and  then  began  stalking  them  through  the  grass,  taking 
advantage  of  the  tall  grass-grown  ant-hills  that  I 
might  approach  the  wary  beasts  before  their  great  eyes 
could  discover  me.  I  contrived  to  come  within 
1 75  yards,  by  means  of  one  of  these  curious  hummocks ; 
but  beyond  it  no  man  could  crawl  without  being 
observed — the  grass  was  so  thin  and  short.  I  took  a 
long  breath,  wiped  my  perspiring  brow,  and  sat  down 
for  a  while ;  my  black  assistants  also,  like  myself,  were 
almost  breathless  with  the  exertion,  and  the  high 
expectations  roused  by  the  near  presence  of  the  royal 
beasts.  I  toyed  lovingly  with  the  heavy  Reilly,  saw 
to  my  cartridges,  and  then  stood  up  and  turned,  with 
my  rifle  ready ;  took  one  good,  long,  steady  aim  ;  then 
lowered  it  again  to  arrange  the  sights,  lifted  it  up  once 
more — dropped  it.  A  giraffe  half  turned  his  body  ;  for 
the  last  time  I  lifted  it,  took  one  quick  sight  at  the 
region  of  the  heart,  and  fired.    He  staggered,  reeled, 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UN7ANYEMBE. 


593 


then  made  a  short  gallop  ;  but  the  blood  was  spouting 
from  the  wound  in  a  thick  stream,  and  before  he  had 
gone  200  yards  he  came  to  a  dead  halt,  with  his  ears 
drawn  back,  and  allowed  me  to  come  within  twenty 
yards  of  him,  when,  receiving  a  zinc  bullet  through  the 
head,  he  fell  dead. 

"  Allah  ho,  akhbar  J"  cried  Khamisi,  my  butcher, 
fervently.    "This  is  meat,  master!' 

I  was  rather  saddened  than  otherwise  at  seeing  the 
noble  animal  stretched  before  me.  If  I  could  have 
given  him  his  life  back  I  think  I  should  have  done  so. 
I  thought  it  a  great  pity  that  such  splendid  animals,  so 
well  adapted  for  the  service  of  man  in  Africa,  could 
not  be  converted  to  some  other  use  than  that  of  food. 
Horses,  mules,  and  donkeys  died  in  these  sickly  regions ; 
but  what  a  blessing  for  Africa  would  it  be  if  we 
could  tame  the  giraffes  and  zebras  for  the  uses  of 
explorers  and  traders !  Mounted  on  a  zebra,  a  man 
would  be  enabled  to  reach  Ujiji  in  one  month  from 
Bagamoyo  ;  whereas  it  took  me  over  seven  months  to 
travel  that  distance  ! 

The  dead  giraffe  measured  16  feet  9  inches  from  his 
right  fore-hoof  to  the  top  of  his  head,  and  was  one  of 
the  largest  size,  though  some  have  been  found  to 
measure  over  17  feet.  He  was  spotted  all  over  with 
large  black,  nearly  round,  patches. 

I  left  Khamisi  in  charge  of  the  dead  beast,  while  I 
returned  to  camp  to  send  off  men  to  cut  it  up,  and 
convey  the  meat  to  our  village.  But  Khamisi  climbed 
a  tree  for  fear  of  the  lions,  and  the  vultures  settled  on 
it,  so  that  when  the  men  arrived  on  the  spot,  the  eyes, 
the  tongue,  and  a  great  part  of  the  posteriors  were 
eaten  up.  What  remained  weighed  as  follows,  when 
brought  in  and  hung  to  the  scales  : — 

2  Q 


504 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


1  hind  leg   134  lbs, 

1       „   136  „ 

1  fore  leg   160  „ 

1     „           .        .        .        .        .        .  160  „ 

Ribs   158  „ 

Neck   74  „ 

Rump    .        .        .        .        .        .  87  „ 

Breast   .        .        .        .        .        .  46  „ 

Liver    .        .        .        .        .        .  20  „ 

Lungs   .        .        .        .        .        .  12  „ 

Heart   6  „ 


Total  weight  of  eatable  portions  .        .    993  lbs. 


Skin  and  head,  181  lbs. 

The  three  days  following  I  suffered  from  a  severe 
attack  of  fever,  and  was  unable  to  stir  from  bed.  I 
applied  my  usual  remedies  for  it,  which  consisted  oi 
colocynth  and  quinine ;  but  experience  has  shown  me 
that  an  excessive  use  of  the  same  cathartic  weakens  its 
effect,  and  that  it  would  be  well  for  travellers  to  take 
with  them  different  medicines  for  clearing  the  bowels, 
and  to  cause  proper  action  in  the  liver,  such  as  colo- 
cynth, calomel,  resin  of  jalap,  Epsom  salts ;  and  that 
no  quinine  should  be  taken  until  such  medicines  shall 
have  prepared  the  system  for  its  reception. 

The  Doctor's  prescription  for  fever  consists  of  3  grains 
of  resin  of  jalap,  and  2  grains  of  calomel,  with 
tincture  of  cardamoms  put  in  just  enough  to  prevent 
irritation  of  the  stomach — made  into  the  form  of  a  piU 
— which  is  to  be  taken  as  soon  as  one  begins  to  feel  the 
excessive  languor  and  weariness  which  is  the  sure 
forerunner  of  the  African  type  of  fever.  An  hour  or 
two  later  a  cup  of  coffee,  unsugared,  and  without  milk, 
ought  to  be  taken,  to  cause  a  quicker  action.  The 
Doctor  also  thinks  that  quinine  should  be  taken  with 
the  pill ;  but  my  experience — though  it  weighs  nothing 


Jan.  1372.]         OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UN YANYEMB E.  506 

against  what  he  has  endured — has  proved  to  me  that 
quinine  is  useless  until  after  the  medicine  has  taken 
effect.  My  stomach  could  never  bear  quinine  unless 
subsequent  to  the  cathartic.  A  well-known  missionary 
at  Constantinople  recommends  travellers  to  take 
3  grains  of  tartar-emetic  for  the  ejection  of  the  bilious 
matter  in  the  stomach ;  but  the  reverend  doctor 
possibly  forgets  that  much  more  of  the  system  is 
disorganized  than  the  stomach ;  and  though  in  one  or 
two  cases  of  a  slight  attack,  this  remedy  may  have 
proved  successful,  it  is  altogether  too  violent  for  an 
enfeebled  man  in  Africa.  I  have  treated  myself  faith- 
fully after  this  method  three  or  four  times  ;  but  I 
could  not  conscientiously  recommend  it.  For  cases  of 
urticaria,  I  could  recommend  taking  3  grains  of  tartar- 
emetic  ;  but  then  a  stomach-pump  would  answer  the 
purpose  as  well. 

On  the  27th  we  set  out  for  Misonghi.  About  half- 
way I  saw  the  head  of  the  Expedition  on  the  run,  and 
the  motive  seemed  to  be  communicated  quickly,  man 
after  man,  to  those  behind,  until  my  donkey  commenced 
to  kick,  and  lash  behind  with  his  heels.  In  a  second,  I 
was  made  aware  of  the  cause  of  this  excitement,  by  a 
cloud  of  wild  bees  buzzing  about  my  head,  three  or 
four  of  which  settled  on  my  face,  and  stung  me  fright- 
fully. We  raced  madly  for  about  half  a  mile,  behaving 
in  as  wild  a  manner  as  the  poor  bestung  animals. 

As  this  was  an  unusually  long  march,  I  doubted  if 
the  Doctor  could  march  it,  because  his  feet  were  so 
sore,  so  I  determined  to  send  four  men  back  with  the 
kitanda  ;  but  the  stout  old  hero  refused  to  be  carried, 
and  walked  all  the  vvay  to  camp  after  a  march  of 
eighteen  miles.  He  had  been  stung  dreadfully  in  the 
head  and  in  the  face  ;  the  bees  had  settled  in  handfuls 


596 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


in  his  hair  ;  but,  after  partaking  of  a  cup  of  warm  tea 
and  some  food,  he  was  as  cheerful  as  if  he  had  never 
travelled  a  mile. 

At  Mrera,  Central  Ukonongo,  we  halted  a  day  to 
grind  grain,  and  to  prepare  the  provision  we  should 
need  during  the  transit  of  the  wilderness  between  Mrera 
and  Manyara. 

On  the  31st  of  January,  at  Mwaru,  Sultan  Ka-mi- 
rambo,  we  met  a  caravan  under  the  leadership  of  a 
slave  of  Sayd  bin  Habib,  who  came  to  visit  us  in  our 
camp,  which  was  hidden  in  a  thick  clump  of  jungle. 
After  he  was  seated,  and  had  taken  his  coffee,  I  asked, 

"  What  is  thy  news,  my  friend,  that  thou  hast 
brought  from  Unyanyembe  ?" 

"  My  news  is  good,  master." 

"  How  goes  the  war  ?" 

"  Ah,  Mirambo  is  where  ?  He  eats  the  hides  even. 
He  is  famished.  Sayd  bin  Habib,  my  master,  hath  pos- 
session of  Kirira.  The  Arabs  are  thundering  at  the 
gates  of  Wilyankuru.  Sayd  bin  Majid,  who  came  from 
Ujiji  to  Usagozi  in  twenty  days,  hath  taken  and  slain 
'  Moto  '  (Fire),  the  King.  Simba  of  Kasera  hath  taken 
up  arms  for  the  defence  of  his  father,  Mkasiwa  of 
Unyanyembe.  The  chief  of  Ugunda  hath  sent  five 
hundred  men  to  the  field.  Ough — Mirambo  is  where  ? 
In  a  month  he  will  be  dead  of  hunger." 

"  Great  and  good  news  truly,  my  friend." 

"  Yes — in  the  name  of  God." 

"  And  whither  art  thou  bound  with  thy  caravan  ?" 

"  Sayd,  the  son  of  Majid,  who  came  from  Ujiji,  hath 
told  us  of  the  road  that  the  white  man  took,  that  he 
had  arrived  at  Ujiji  safely,  and  that  he  was  on  his  way 
back  to  Unyanyembe.  So  we  have  thought  that  if  the 
white  man  could  go  there,  we  could  also.  Lo,  the  Arabs 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  mi 


come  by  the  hundred  by  the  white  man's  road,  to  get 
the  ivory  from  Ujiji." 

"  I  am  that  white  man." 

44  You  ?" 

"Yes." 

«  Why,  it  was  reported  that  you  were  dead — that  you 
fought  with  the  Wazavira." 

44  Ah,  my  friend,  these  are  the  words  of  Njara,  the 
son  of  Khamis.  See"  (pointing  to  Livingstone),  "  this 
is  the  white  man,  my  father,*  whom  I  saw  at  Ujiji.  He 
is  going  with  me  to  Unyanyembe  to  get  his  cloth,  after 
which  he  will  return  to  the  great  waters." 

44  Wonderful ! — thou  say  est  truly." 

44  What  hast  thou  to  tell  me  of  the  white  man  at 
Unyanyembe  ?" 

"  Which  white  man  ?" 

44  The  white  man  I  left  in  the  house  of  Sayd,  the  son 
of  Salim — my  house — at  Kwihara." 
44  He  is  dead." 
"Dead!" 
44  True." 

* 4  You  do  not  mean  to  say  the  white  man  is  dead  ?* 

44  True— he  is  dead." 

"How  long  ago  ?" 

44  Many  months  now." 

44  What  did  he  die  of?" 

44  Homa  (fever)." 

44  Any  more  of  my  people  dead  ?" 

44 1  know  not." 

44  Enough."  I  looked  sympathetically  at  the  Doctor 
and  he  replied, 

"  I  told  you  so.    When  you  described  him  to  me  as 

*  It  is  a  courteous  custom  in  Africa  to  address  elderly  people  ai 
"  Baba  "  (Father). 


598 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


a  drunken  man,  I  knew  he  could  not  live.  Men  who 
have  been  habitual  drunkards  cannot  live  in  this 
country,  any  more  than  men  who  have  become  slaves 
to  other  vices.  I  attribute  the  death  that  occurred  in 
my  expedition  on  the  Zambezi  to  much  the  same 
cause.' ' 

u  Ah,  Doctor,  there  are  two  of  us  gone.  I  shall  be 
the  third,  if  this  fever  lasts  much  longer." 

"  Oh  no,  not  at  all.  If  you  would  have  died  from 
fever,  you  would  have  died  at  Ujiji  when  you  had  that 
severe  attack  of  remittent.  Don't  think  of  it.  Your 
fever  now  is  only  the  result  of  exposure  to  wet.  I 
never  travel  during  the  wet  season.  This  time  I  have 
travelled  because  I  was  anxious,  and  I  did  not  wish  to 
detain  you  at  Ujiji." 

"  Well,  there  is  nothing  like  a  good  friend  at  one's 
back  in  this  country  to  encourage  him,  and  keep  his 
spirits  up.  Poor  Shaw  !  He  was  a  bad  man  ;  but  I 
am  sorry — very  sorry  for  him.  How  many  times  have 
I  not  endeavoured  to  cheer  him  up !  But  there  was  no 
life  in  him.  And  among  the  last  words  I  said  to  him, 
before  parting,  were,  k  Remember,  if  you  return  to 
Unyanyembe,  you  die  !"' 

We  also  obtained  news  from  the  chief  of  Sayd  bin 
Habib's  caravan  that  several  packets  of  letters  and 
newspapers,  and  boxes,  had  arrived  for  me  from  Zanzibar 
by  my  messengers  and  Arabs ;  that  Selim,  the  son  of 
Sheikh  Hashid  of  Zanzibar,  was  amongst  the  latest 
arrivals  in  Unyanyembe.  The  Doctor  also  reminded 
me  with  the  utmost  good-nature  that,  according  to  his 
accounts,  he  had  a  stock  of  jellies  and  crackers,  soups, 
fish,  and  potted  ham,  besides  cheese,  awaiting  him  in 
Unyanyembe,  and  that  he  would  be  delighted  to  share 
his  good  things  ;  whereupon  I  was  greatly  cheered,  and, 


Jan.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UN YANYEMBE. 


599 


during  the  repeated  attacks  of  fever  I  suffered  about 
this  time,  my  imagination  loved  to  dwell  upon  the 
luxuries  at  Unyanyembe.  I  pictured  myself  devouring 
the  hams  and  crackers  and  jellies  like  a  madman.  I 
lived  on  my  raving  fancies.  My  poor  vexed  brain 
rioted  on  such  homely  things  as  wheaten  bread  and 
butter,  hams,  bacon,  caviare,  and  I  would  have  thought 
no  price  too  high  to  pay  for  them.  Though  so  far  away 
and  out  of  the  pale  of  Europe  and  America,  it  was 
a  pleasure  to  me,  during  the  terrible  state  of  athumia  or 
despondency  into  which  I  was  plunged  by  ever-recur- 
ring fevers,  to  dwell  upon  them.  I  wondered  that 
people  who  had  access  to  such  luxuries  should  ever  get 
sick,  and  become  tired  of  life.  I  thought  that  if  a 
wheaten  loaf  with  a  nice  pat  of  fresh  butter  were  pre- 
sented to  me,  I  would  be  able,  though  dying,  to  spring 
up  and  dance  a  wild  fandango. 

Though  we  lacked  the  good  things  of  this  life  above 
named,  we  possessed  salted  giraffe  and  pickled  zebra 
tongues  ;  we  had  ugali  made  by  Halimah  herself ;  we 
had  sweet  potatoes,  tea,  coffee,  dampers,  or  slap-jacks ; 
but  I  was  tired  of  them.  My  enfeebled  stomach,  har- 
rowed and  irritated  with  medicinal  compounds,  with 
ipecac,  colocynth,  tartar-emetic,  quinine,  and  such  things, 
protested  against  the  coarse  food.  "  Oh,  for  a  wheaten 
loaf!"  my  soul  cried  in  agony.  "  Five  hundred  dollars 
for  one  loaf  of  bread  !" 

The  Doctor-,  somehow  or  another,  despite  the  incessant 
rain,  the  dew,  fog,  and  drizzle,  the  marching,  and  sore 
feet,  ate  like  a  hero,  and  I  manfully,  sternly,  resolved  to 
imitate  the  persevering  attention  he  paid  to  the  welfare 
of  his  gastric  powers ;  but  I  miserably  failed. 

Dr.  Livingstone  possesses  all  the  attainments  of  a 
traveller.    His  knowledge  is  great  about  everything 


600 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


concerning  Africa — the  rocks,  the  trees,  the  fruits,  and 
their  virtues,  are  known  to  him.  He  is  also  full  of  phi- 
losophic reflections  upon  ethnological  matters.  With 
camp-craft,  with  its  cunning  devices,  he  is  au  fait.  His 
bed  is  luxurious  as  a  spring-mattress.  Each  night  he 
has  it  made  under  his  own  supervision.  First,  he  has 
two  straight  poles  cut,  three  or  four  inches  in  diameter ; 
which  are  laid  parallel  one  with  another,  at  the  distance 
of  two  feet ;  across  these  poles  are  laid  short  sticks,  sap- 
lings, three  feet  long,  and  over  them  is  laid  a  thick  pile 
of  grass  ;  then  comes  a  piece  of  waterproof  canvas  and 
blankets — and  thus  a  bed  has  been  improvised  fit  for  a 
king. 

It  was  at  Livingstone's  instigation  I  purchased  milch 
goats,  by  which,  since  leaving  Ujiji,  we  have  had  a 
supply  of  fresh  milk  for  our  tea  and  coffee  three  times  a 
day.  Apropos  of  this,  we  are  great  drinkers  of  these 
welcome  stimulants ;  we  seldom  halt  drinking  until  we 
have  each  had  six  or  seven  cups.  We  have  also  been 
able  to  provide  ourselves  with  music,  which,  though 
harsh,  is  better  than  none.  I  mean  the  musical  screech 
of  parrots  from  Manyuema. 

Half-way  between  Mwaru — Kamirambo's  village — 
and  the  deserted  Tongoni  of  Ukamba,  I  carved  the 
Doctor's  initials  and  my  own  on  a  large  tree,  with  the 
date  February  2nd.  I  have  been  twice  guilty  of  this  in 
Africa  :  once  when  we  were  famishing  in  Southern 
Uvinza  I  inscribed  the  date,  my  initials,  and  the 
word  "  Starving !"  in  large  letters  on  the  trunk  of  a 
sycamore. 

In  passing  through  the  forest  of  Ukamba,  we  saw 
the  bleached  skull  of  an  unfortunate  victim  to  the  priva- 
tions of  travel.  Keferring  to  it,  the  Doctor  remarked 
that  he  could  never  pass  through  an  African  forest, 


Feb.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNYANYEMBE.  601 

with  its  solemn  stillness  and  serenity,  without  wishing 
to  be  buried  quietly  under  the  dead  leaves,  where  he 
would  be  sure  to  rest  undisturbed.  In  England  there 
was  no  elbow-room,  the  graves  were  often  desecrated ; 
and  ever  since  he  had  buried  his  wife  in  the  woods  of 
Shupanga  he  had  sighed  for  just  such  a  spot,  where 
his  weary  bones  would  receive  the  eternal  rest  they 
coveted. 

The  same  evening,  when  the  tent  door  was  down, 
and  the  interior  was  made  cheerful  by  the  light  of  a 
paraffin  candle,  the  Doctor  related  to  me  some  incidents 
respecting  the  career  and  the  death  of  his  eldest  son, 
Robert.  Readers  of  Livingstone's  first  book,  6  South 
Africa,'  without  which  no  boy  should  be,  will  probably 
recollect  the  dying  Sebituane's  regard  for  the  little  boy 
"  Robert."  Mrs.  Livingstone  and  family  were  taken  to 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  thence  sent  to  England, 
where  Robert  was  put  in  the  charge  of  a  tutor  ;  but 
wearied  of  inactivity,  when  he  was  about  eighteen, 
he  left  Scotland  and  came  to  Natal,  whence  he  endea- 
vored to  reach  his  father.  Unsuccessful  in  his  attempt, 
he  took  ship  and  sailed  for  New  York,  and  enlisted  in 
the  Northern  Army,  in  a  New  Hampshire  regiment  of 
Volunteers,  discarding  his  own  name  of  Robert  MofFatt 
Livingstone,  and  taking  that  of  Rupert  Vincent,  that 
his  tutor,  who  seems  to  have  been  ignorant  of  his  duties 
to  the  youth,  might  not  find  him.  In  one  of  the  battles 
before  Richmond,  he  was  conveyed  to  a  North  Carolina 
hospital,  where  he  died  from  his  wounds. 

On  the  7th  of  February  we  arrived  at  the  G-ombe, 
and  camped  near  one  of  its  largest  lakes.  This  lake  is 
probably  several  miles  in  length,  and  swarms  with 
hippopotami  and  crocodiles. 

From  this  camp  I  despatched  Ferajji,  the  cook,  and 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Chowpereh  to  Unyanyembe,  to  bring  the  letters  and 
medicines  that  were  sent  to  me  from  Zanzibar,  and 
meet  us  at  Ugunda,  while  the  next  day  we  moved  to 
our  old  quarters  on  the  Gombe,  where  we  were  first 
introduced  to  the  real  hunter's  paradise  in  Central 
Africa.    The  rain  had  scattered  the  greater  number  of 
the  herds,  but  there  was  plenty  of  game  in  the  vicinity. 
Soon  after  breakfast  I  took  Khamisi  and  Kalulu  with 
me  for  a  hunt.    After  a  long  walk  we  arrived  near  a 
thin  jungle,  where  I  discovered  the  tracks  of  several 
animals — boar,  antelope,  elephant,  rhinoceros,  hippo- 
potamus, and  an  unusual  number  of  imprints  of  the 
lion's  paw.    Suddenly  I  heard  Khamisi  say,  "  Master, 
master !  here  is  a  '  simba !'  (lion) ;"  and  he  came  up 
to  me  trembling  with  excitement  and  fear — for  the 
young  fellow  was  an  arrant  coward — to  point  out  the 
head  of  a  beast,  which  could  be  seen  just  above  the 
tall  grass,  looking  steadily  towards  us.    It  immediately 
afterwards  bounded  from  side  to  side,  but  the  grass  was 
so  high  that  it  was  impossible  to  tell  exactly  what  it 
was.    Taking  advantage  of  a  tree  in  my  front,  I  crept 
quietly  onwards,  intending  to  rest  the  heavy  rifle 
against  it,  as  I  was  so  weak  from  the  effects  of  several 
fevers  that  I  felt  myself  utterly  incapable  of  supporting 
my  rifle  for  a  steady  aim.    But  my  surprise  was  great 
when  I  cautiously  laid  it  against  the  tree,  and  then 
directed  its  muzzle  to  the  spot  where  I  had  seen  him 
stand.    Looking  further  away — to  where  the  grass  was 
thin  and  scant — I  saw  the  animal  bound  along  at  a 
great  rate,  and  that  it  was  a  lion  :  the  noble  monarch 
of  the  forest  was  in  full  flight !    From  that  moment  I 
ceased  to  regard  him  as  the  "mightiest  among  the 
brutes ;"  or  his  roar  as  anything  more  fearful  in  broad 
daylight  than  a  sucking  dove's. 


Feb.  1872]       OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UN YA N TEMBE.  603 

The  next  day  was  also  a  halt,  and  unable  to  contain 
my  longing  for  the  chase,  where  there  used  to  be  such 
a  concourse  of  game  of  all  kinds,  soon  after  morning 
coffee,  and  after  despatching  a  couple  of  men  with 
presents  to  my  friend  Ma-manyara,  of  ammonia-bottle 
memory,  I  sauntered  out  once  more  for  the  park. 
Not  five  hundred  yards  from  the  camp,  myself  and  men 
were  suddenly  halted  by  hearing  in  our  immediate 
vicinity,  probably  within  fifty  yards  or  so,  a  chorus  of 
roars,  issuing  from  a  triplet  of  lions.  Instinctively  my 
fingers  raised  the  two  hammers,  as  I  expected  a  general 
onset  on  me ;  for  though  one  lion  might  fly,  it  was 
hardly  credible  that  three  should.  While  looking 
keenly  about  I  detected,  within  easy  rifle-shot,  a  fine 
hartebeest,  trembling  and  cowering  behind  a  tree,  as  if 
it  expected  the  fangs  of  the  lions  in  its  neck.  Though 
it  had  its  back  turned  to  me,  I  thought  a  bullet  might 
plough  its  way  to  a  vital  part,  and  without  a  moment's 
hesitation  I  aimed  and  fired.  The  animal  gave  a  tre- 
mendous jump,  as  if  it  intended  to  take  a  flying  leap 
through  the  tree  ;  but  recovering  itself  it  dashed  through 
the  underbrush  in  a  different  direction  from  that  in 
which  I  supposed  the  lions  to  be,  and  I  never  saw  it 
again,  though  I  knew  I  had  struck  it  from  the  bloody 
trail  it  left;  neither  did  I  see  or  hear  anything  more 
of  the  lions.  I  searched  far  and  wide  over  the  park 
land  for  prey  of  some  kind,  but  was  compelled  to  return 
unsuccessful  to  camp. 

Disgusted  with  my  failure,  we  started  a  little  after 
noon  for  Manyara,  at  which  place  we  were  hospitably 
greeted  by  my  friend,  who  had  sent  men  to  tell  me  that 
his  white  brother  must  not  halt  in  the  woods,  but  must 
come  to  his  village.  We  received  a  present  of  honey 
and  food  from  the  chief,  which  was  most  welcome  to  ue 


604 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


in  our  condition.  Here  was  an  instance  of  that  friendly 
disposition  among  Central  African  chiefs  when  they 
have  not  been  spoiled  by  the  Arabs,  which  Dr.  Living- 
stone found  among  the  Babisa  and  Ba-ulungu,  and  in 
Manyuema.  I  received  the  same  friendly  recognition 
from  all  the  chiefs,  from  Imrera,  in  Ukawendi,  to  Unya- 
nyembe, as  I  did  from  Ma-manyara. 

On  the  14th  we  arrived  at  Ugunda,  and  soon  after 
we  had  established  ourselves  comfortably  in  a  hut 
which  the  chief  lent  us  for  our  use,  in  came  Ferajji 
and  Chowpereh,  bringing  with  them  Sarmian  and  Uledi 
Manwa  Sera,  who,  it  will  be  recollected,  were  the  two 
soldiers  sent  to  Zanzibar  with  letters  and  for  medicines 
for  Shaw's  disease ;  and  who  should  Sarmian  have  in 
charge  but  the  deserter  Hamdallah,  who  decamped  at 
Manyara,  as  we  were  going  to  Ujiji.  This  fellow,  it 
seems,  had  halted  at  Kigandu,  and  had  informed  the 
chief  and  the  doctor  of  the  village  that  he  had  been 
sent  by  the  white  man  to  take  back  the  cloth  left  there 
for  the  cure  of  Mabruk  Saleem ;  and  the  simple  chief 
had  commanded  it  to  be  given  up  to  him  upon  his  mere 
word,  in  consequence  of  which  the  sick  man  had  died, 
as  well  as  another  that  I  had  left  in  Unyanyembe. 

Upon  Sarmian's  arrival  in  Unyanyembe  from  Zanzi- 
bar, about  fifty  days  after  the  Expedition  had  departed 
for  Ujiji,  the  news  he  received  was  that  the  white  man 
(Shaw)  was  dead ;  and  that  a  man  called  Hamdallah, 
who  had  engaged  himself  as  one  of  my  guides,  but  who 
had  shortly  after  returned,  was  at  Unyanyembe.  He 
had  left  him  unmolested  until  the  appearance  of  Ferajji 
and  his  companion,  when  they  at  once,  in  a  body,  made 
a  descent  on  his  hut  and  secured  him.  With  the  zeal 
which  always  distinguished  him  in  my  service,  Sarmian 
had  procured  a  forked  pole,  between  the  prongs  of 


Feb.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  U N YA N YEMBE. 


60£ 


which  tlie  neck  of  the  absconder  was  placed ;  and  a 
cross  stick,  firmly  lashed,  effectually  prevented  him  from 
relieving  himself  of  the  incumbrance  attached  to  him 
so  deftly. 

There  were  no  less  than  seven  packets  of  letters  and 
newspapers  from  Zanzibar,  which  had  been  collecting 
during  my  absence  from  Unyanyembe.  These  had 
been  entrusted  at  various  times  to  the  chiefs  of  cara- 
vans, who  had  faithfully  delivered  them  at  my  tembe, 
according  to  their  promise  to  the  Consul.  There  was 
a  packet  for  me  from  Dr.  Kirk,  which  contained  two  or 
three  letters  for  Dr.  Livingstone,  to  whom,  of  course, 
they  were  at  once  transferred,  with  my  congratulations 
that  he  was  not  quite  forgotten  by  his  friend.  In  the 
same  packet  there  was  also  a  letter  to  me  from  Dr.  Kirk, 
requesting  me  to  take  charge  of  Livingstone's  goods 
and  do  the  best  I  could  to  forward  them  on  to  him, 
dated  25th  September,  1871,  five  days  after  I  left 
Unyanyembe  on  my  apparently  hopeless  task.  It  also 
contained  some  wild  advice  about  taking  an  impossible 
route  by  way  of  the  Ukerewe  Lake,  but  the  tone  of  the 
letter  was  good-natured  and  hearty. 

"  Well,  Doctor,"  said  I  to  Livingstone,  "  the  English 
Consul  requests  me  to  do  all  I  can  to  push  forward 
your  goods  to  you.  I  am  sorry  that  I  did  not  get  the 
authority  sooner,  for  I  should  have  attempted  it ;  but  in 
the  absence  of  these  instructions  I  have  done  the  best 
I  could  by  pushing  you  towards  the  goods.  The 
mountain  has  not  been  able  to  advance  towards 
Mohammed,  but  Mohammed  has  been  compelled  to 
advance  towards  the  mountain." 

But  Dr.  Livingstone  was  too  deeply  engrossed  in  hie 
own  letters  from  home,  which  were  just  a  year  old. 

I  received  good  and  bad  news  from  New  York,  bat 


BOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  good  news  was  subsequent,  and  wiped  out  ail  feelings 
that  might  have  been  evoked  had  I  received  the  bad 
only.  But  the  newspapers,  nearly  a  hundred  of  them, 
New  York,  Boston,  and  London  journals,  were  full  of 
most  wonderful  news.  The  Paris  Commune  was  in 
arms  against  the  National  Assembly ;  the  Tuileries,  the 
Louvre,  and  the  ancient  city  Lutetia  Parisiorum  had 
been  set  in  flames  by  the  blackguards  of  Saint- Antoine ! 
French  troops  massacring  and  murdering  men,  women, 
and  children ;  rampant  diabolism,  and  incarnate  revenge 
were  at  work  in  the  most  beautiful  city  in  the  world! 
Fair  women  converted  into  demons,  and  dragged  by 
ruffianly  soldiery  through  the  streets  to  universal  exe- 
cration and  pitiless  death  ;  children  of  tender  age  pinned 
to  the  earth  and  bayoneted ;  men,  innocent  or  not, 
shot,  cut,  stabbed,  slashed,  destroyed  —  a  whole  city 
given  up  to  the  swnma  injuria  of  an  infuriate,  reck- 
less, and  brutal  army  !  Oh,  France  !  Oh,  Frenchmen  ! 
Such  things  are  unknown  even  in  the  heart  of  bar- 
barous Central  Africa.  We  spurned  the  newspapers 
with  our  feet ;  and  for  relief  to  sickened  hearts  gazed 
on  the  comic  side  of  our  world,  as  illustrated  in  the 
innocent  pages  of  4  Punch.'  Poor  4  Punch !'  good- 
hearted,  kindly -natured  4  Punch  !'  a  traveller's  benison 
on  thee  !  Thy  jokes  were  as  physic ;  thy  innocent  satire 
was  provocative  of  hysteric  mirth. 

Our  doors  were  crowded  with  curious  natives,  who 
looked  with  indescribable  wonder  at  the  enormous 
sheets.  I  heard  them  repeat  the  words,  44  Khabari 
Kisungu  " — white  man's  news — often,  and  heard  them 
discussing  the  nature  of  such  a  quantity  of  news,  and 
expressing  their  belief  that  the  44  Wasungu "  were 
44  mbyah  sana,"  and  very  44  mkali ;"  by  which  they 
meant  to  say  that  the  white  men  were  very  wicked, 


Feb.  1872.]        OUR  JOURNEY  TO  UNTANYEMRE. 


607 


and  very  smart  and  clever ;  though  the  term  wicked  is 
often  employed  to  express  high  admiration. 

On  the  fourth  day  from  Ugunda,  or  the  18th  of 
February,  and  the  fifty- third  day  from  Ujiji,  we  made 
our  appearance  with  flags  flying  and  guns  firing  in  the 
valley  of  Kwihara,  and  when  the  Doctor  and  myself 
passed  through  the  portals  of  my  old  quarters  I  formally 
welcomed  him  to  Unyanyembe  and  to  my  house.  Since 
the  day  I  had  left  the  Arabs,  sick  and  weary  almost 
with  my  life,  but,  nevertheless,  imbued  with  the  high 
hope  that  my  mission  would  succeed,  one  hundred  and 
thirty-one  days  had  elapsed — with  what  vicissitudes  of 
fortune  the  reader  well  knows — during  which  time  I  had 
journeyed  over  twelve  hundred  miles.  The  myth  after 
which  I  travelled  through  the  wilderness  proved  to  be 
a  fact ;  and  never  was  the  fact  more  apparent  than 
when  the  Living  Man  walked  with  me  arm  in  arm  tc 
my  old  room,  and  I  said  to  him,  "  Doctor,  we  are  ai 
last  at  Home  !" 


MAKING  THE  MOST  OF  A  HALT. 


CHAPTER  XYL 

HOMEWARD  BOUND. 

Untanyembe  was  now  to  me  a  terrestrial  Paradise. 
Livingstone  was  no  less  happy ;  he  was  in  comfortable 
quarters,  which  were  a  palace  to  his  hut  in  Ujiji.  Our 
store-rooms  were  full  of  the  good  things  of  this  life, 
besides  cloth,  beads,  wire,  and  the  thousand  and  one 
impedimenta  and  paraphernalia  of  travel  with  which  I 
had  loaded  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  men  at  Bagamoyo. 
I  had  seventy-four  loads  of  miscellaneous  things,  the 
most  valuable  of  which  were  now  to  be  turned  over  to 
Livingstone,  for  his  march  back  to  the  sources  of  the 
Nile. 

It  was  a  great  day  with  us  when,  with  hammer  and 
chisel,  I  broke  open  the  Doctor's  boxes,  that  we  might 
feast  our  famished  stomachs  on  the  luxuries  which  were 


Feb.  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


609 


to  redeem  us  from  the  effect  of  the  cacotrophic  dourra 
and  maize  food  we  had  been  subjected  to  in  the 
wilderness.  I  conscientiously  believed  that  a  diet  on 
potted  ham,  crackers,  and  jellies  would  make  me  as 
invincible  as  Talus,  and  that  I  only  required  a  stout 
flail  to  be  able  to  drive  the  mighty  Wagogo  into  the 
regions  of  annihilation,  should  they  dare  even  to  wink 
in  a  manner  that  I  disapproved. 

The  first  box  opened  contained  three  tins  of  biscuits, 
six  tins  of  potted  hams — tiny  things,  not  much  larger 
than  thimbles,  which,  when  opened,  proved  to  be  nothing 
more  than  a  table-spoonful  of  minced  meat  plentifully 
seasoned  with  pepper :  the  Doctor's  stores  fell  five 
hundred  degrees  below  zero  in  my  estimation.  Next 
were  brought  out  five  pots  of  jam,  one  of  which  was 
opened — this  was  also  a  delusion.  The  stone  jars 
weighed  a  pound,  and  in  each  was  found  a  little  over  a 
tea-spoonful  of  jam.  Yerily,  we  began  to  think  our 
hopes  and  expectations  had  been  raised  to  too  high  a 
pitch.  Three  bottles  of  curry  were  next  produced — but 
who  cares  for  curry  ?  Another  box  was  opened,  and 
out  tumbled  a  fat  dumpy  Dutch  cheese,  hard  as  a  brick, 
but  sound  and  good ;  though  it  is  bad  for  the  liver  in 
Unyamwezi.  Then  another  cheese  was  seen,  but  this 
was  all  eaten  up — it  was  hollow,  and  a  fraud.  The 
third  box  contained  nothing  but  two  sugar-loaves ;  the 
fourth,  candles;  the  fifth,  bottles  of  salt,  Harvey, 
Worcester,  and  Reading  sauces,  essence  of  anchovies, 
pepper,  and  mustard.  Bless  me  !  what  food  were  these 
for  the  revivifying  of  a  moribund  such  as  I  was !  The 
sixth  box  contained  four  shirts,  two  pairs  of  stout  shoes, 
some  stockings  and  shoe-strings ;  which  delighted  the 
Doctor  so  much  when  he  tried  them  on  that  he  ex- 
claimed, "Richard  is  himself  again!"    "That  man," 

2  R 


610 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


said  I,  "  whoever  he  is,  is  a  friend,  indeed."  "  Yes, 
that  is  my  friend,  Waller." 

The  five  other  boxes  contained  potted  meat  and  soups  ; 
but  the  twelfth,  containing  one  dozen  bottles  of  medicinal 
brandy,  was  gone ;  and  a  strict  cross-examination  of 
Asmani,  the  head  man  of  Livingstone's  caravan,  elicited 
the  fact,  that  not  only  was  one  case  of  brandy  missing, 
but  also  two  bales  of  cloth  and  four  bags  of  the  most 
valuable  beads  in  Africa — sami-sami — which  are  as  gold 
with  the  natives. 

I  was  grievously  disappointed  after  the  stores  had 
been  examined ;  everything  proved  to  be  deceptions  in 
my  jaundiced  eyes.  Out  of  the  tins  of  biscuits,  when 
opened,  there  was  only  one  sound  box ;  the  whole  of 
which  would  not  make  one  full  meal.  The  soups — who 
cared  for  meat  soups  in  Africa  ?  Are  there  no  bullocks, 
and  sheep,  and  goats  in  the  land,  from  which  far  better 
soup  can  be  made  than  any  that  was  ever  potted  ? 
Peas,  or  any  other  kind  of  vegetable  soup,  would  have 
been  a  luxury;  but  chicken  and  game  soups! — what 
nonsense ! 

I  then  overhauled  my  own  stores.  I  found  some 
fine  old  brandy  and  one  bottle  of  champagne  still  left ; 
though  it  was  evident,  in  looking  at  the  cloth  bales, 
that  dishonesty  had  been  at  work ;  and  some  person 
happened  to  suggest  Asmani — the  head  man  sent  by 
Dr.  Kirk  in  charge  of  Livingstone's  goods — as  the 
guilty  party.  Upon  his  treasures  being  examined,  I 
found  eight  or  ten  colored  cloths,  with  the  mark  of 
my  own  agent  at  Zanzibar  on  them.  As  he  was  unable 
to  give  a  clear  account  of  how  they  came  in  his  box, 
they  were  at  once  confiscated,  and  distributed  among 
the  most  deserving  of  the  Doctors  people.  Some  of 
the  watchmen  also  accused  him  of  having  entered  into 


Feb.  1872.J 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


Gil 


niy  store-room,  and  of  having  abstracted  two  or  three 
gorah  of  domestics  from  my  bales,  and  of  having, 
some  days  afterwards,  snatched  the  keys  from  the  hands 
of  one  of  my  men,  and  broken  them,  lest  other  people 
might  enter,  and  find  evidences  of  his  guilt.  As  Asmani 
was  proved  to  be  another  of  the  "  moral  idiots,"  Living- 
stone discharged  him  on  the  spot.  Had  we  not  have 
arrived  so  soon  at  Unyanyembe,  it  is  probable  that  the 
entire  stock  sent  from  Zanzibar  had  in  time  disappeared. 

Unyanyembe  being  rich  in  fruits,  grain,  and  cattle, 
we  determined  to  have  our  Christmas  dinner  over 
again  in  style,  and,  being  fortunately  in  pretty  good 
health,  I  was  enabled  to  superintend  its  preparation. 
Never  was  such  prodigality  seen  in  a  tembe  of  Unya- 
mwezi  as  was  seen  in  ours,  nor  were  ever  such  delicacies 
provided. 

There  were  few  Arabs  in  Unyanyembe  when  we 
arrived,  as  they  were  investing  the  stronghold  of 
Mirambo.  About  a  week  after  our  return,  "  the  little 
mannikin,"  Sheikh  Sayd  bin  Salim — El  Wali — who 
was  the  commander-in-chief  of  their  forces,  came  to 
Kwihara  from  the  front.  But  the  little  Sheikh  was 
in  no  great  hurry  to  greet  the  man  he  had  wronged 
so  much.  As  soon  as  we  heard  of  his  arrival  we  took 
the  opportunity  to  send  men  immediately  after  the 
goods  which  were  forwarded  to  the  Wali's  care  soon 
after  Livingstone's  departure  for  Mikindany  Bay.  The 
first  time  we  sent  men  for  them  the  governor  declared 
himself  too  sick  to  attend  to  such  matters,  but  the  second 
day  they  were  surrendered,  with  a  request  that  the 
Doctor  would  not  be  very  angry  at  their  condition,  as 
the  white  ants  had  destroyed  everything. 

The  stores  this  man  had  detained  at  Unyanyembe 
were  in  a  most  sorry  state.    The  expenses  were  prepaid 


812 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


for  their  carriage  to  Ujiji,  but  the  goods  had  been 
purposely  detained  at  this  place  by  Sayd  bin  Salim 
since  1867  that  he  might  satisfy  his  appetite  for  liquor, 
and  probably  fall  heir  to  two  valuable  guns  that  were 
known  to  be  with  them.  The  white  ants  had  not  only 
eaten  up  bodily  the  box  in  which  the  guns  were  packed, 
but  they  had  also  eaten  the  gunstocks.  The  barrels 
were  corroded,  and  the  locks  were  quite  destroyed. 
The  brandy  bottles,  most  singular  to  relate,  had  also 
fallen  a  prey  to  the  voracious  and  irresistible  destroyers 
— the  white  ants — and,  by  some  unaccountable  means, 
they  had  imbibed  the  potent  Hennessy,  and  replaced 
the  corks  with  corn-cobs.  The  medicines  had  also 
vanished,  and  the  zinc  pots  in  which  they  had  been 
snugly  packed  up  were  destroyed  by  corrosion.  Two 
bottles  of  brandy  and  one  small  zinc  case  of  medicines 
only  were  saved  out  of  the  otherwise  utter  wreck. 

I  also  begged  the  Doctor  to  send  to  Sheikh  Sayd,  and 
ask  him  if  he  had  received  the  two  letters  despatched 
by  him  upon  his  first  arrival  at  Ujiji  for  Dr.  Kirk  and 
Lord  Clarendon  ;  and  if  he  had  forwarded  them  to  the 
coast,  as  he  was  desired  to  do.  The  reply  to  the 
messengers  was  in  the  affirmative  ;  and,  subsequently, 
I  obtained  the  same  answer  in  the  presence  of  the 
Doctor. 

On  the  22nd  of  February,  the  pouring  rain,  which 
had  dogged  us  the  entire  distance  from  Ujiji,  ceased,  and 
we  had  now  beautiful  weather ;  and  while  I  prepared  for 
the  homeward  march,  the  Doctor  was  busy  writing  his 
letters,  and  entering  his  notes  into  his  journal,  which  I 
was  to  take  to  his  family.  When  not  thus  employed, 
we  paid  visits  to  the  Arabs  at  Tabora,  by  whom  we 
were  both  received  with  that  bounteous  hospitality  for 
which  they  are  celebrated. 


Fib.  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


613 


Among  the  goods  turned  over  by  me  to  Dr.  Living- 
stone, while  assorting  such  cloths  as  I  wished  to  retain 
for  my  homeward  trip,  were — 


Doti. 

Yards. 

First-class  American  sheeting  . 

285 

=  1H0 

„        Kaniki  (blue  stuff) 

.  16 

64 

Medium        „     (blue  stuff) 

60 

=  240 

41 

=  164 

Barsati  cloths  . 

28 

=  112 

Printed  handkerchiefs  . 

70 

280 

127 

508 

„      Ismahili   ,,  ... 

20 

80 

„      Sohari      ,,  ... 

.  20 

80 

4  pieces  fine  Kunguru  (red  check) 

.  22 

88 

8 

32 

Total  number  of  cloths 

697 

=  2788 

Besides  : — 

Gloth,  2788  yards. 

Assorted  beads,  16  sacks,  weight  =  992  lbs. 

Brass  wire,  Nos.  5  and  6,  10  fraslilah  =  350  lbs, 

1  canvas  tent,  waterproof. 

1  air-bed. 

1  boat  (canvas). 

1  bag  of  tools,  carpenter's. 

1  rip  saw. 

2  barrels  of  tar. 

12  sheets  of  ship's  copper  =  60  lbs. 
Clothes. 

1  Jocelyn  breech-loader  (metallic  cartridge). 
1  Starr's 

1  Henry  (16-shooter)  „  „ 

1  revolver. 
200  rounds  revolver  ammunition. 
2000     „     Jocelyn  and  Starr's  ammunition. 
1500      „      Henry  rifle  ammunition. 

Cooking  utensils,  medicine  chest,  books,  sextant,  canvas 
bags,  &c,  &c,  &c. 

The  above  made  a  total  of  about  forty  loads.  Many 
things  in  the  list  would  have  brought  fancy  prices  in 


614 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTON  h. 


Uuyanyembe,  especially  the  carbines  and  ammunition, 
the  saw,  carpenter's  tools,  the  beads,  and  wire.  Out  of 
the  thirty-three  loads  which  were  stored  for  him  in 
my  tembe — the  stock  sent  to  Livingstone,  Nov.  1, 
1870 — but  few  of  them  would  be  available  for  his 
return  trip  to  Rua  and  Manyuema.  The  696  doti 
of  cloth  which  were  left  to  him  formed  the  only 
marketable  articles  of  value  he  possessed ;  and  in 
Manyuema,  where  the  natives  manufactured  their  own 
cloth,  such  an  article  would  be  considered  a  drug ; 
while  my  beads  and  wire,  with  economy,  would  suffice 
to  keep  him  and  his  men  over  two  years  in  those 
regions.  His  own  cloth,  and  what  I  gave  him,  made 
in  the  aggregate  1,393  doti,  which,  at  2  doti  per  day 
for  food,  were  sufficient  to  keep  him  and  sixty  men  696 
days.  He  had  thus  four  years'  supplies.  The  only 
articles  he  lacked  to  make  a  new  and  completely  fitted- 
up  expedition  were  the  following,  a  list  of  which  he  and 
I  drew  up  : — 

A  few  tins  of  American  wheat-flour. 

„      „      soda  crackers. 

„       „      preserved  fruits. 

„       „  sardines. 

„       „  salmon. 
10  lbs.  Hyson  tea. 
Some  sewing  thread  and  needles. 
1  dozen  official  envelopes. 
Nautical  Almanac  for  1872  and  1873. 
1  blank  journal. 
1  chronometer,  stopped. 
1  chain  for  refractory  people. 

With  the  articles  jubt  named  he  would  have  a 
total  of  seventy  loads,  but  without  carriers  they  were 
an  incumbrance  to  him  ;  for,  with  only  the  nine 
men  which  he  now  had,  he  could  go  nowhere  with 


Feb.  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


615 


such  a  splendid  assortment  of  goods.  1  was  there- 
fore commissioned  to  enlist,  —  as  soon  as  I  reached 
Zanzibar, —  fifty  freemen,  arm  them  with  a  gun  and 
hatchet  each  man,  besides  accoutrements,  and  to 
purchase  two  thousand  bullets,  one  thousand  flints, 
and  ten  kegs  of  gunpowder.  The  men  were  to  act  as 
carriers,  to  follow  wherever  Livingstone  might  desire 
to  go.  For,  without  men,  he  was  simply  tantalized 
with  the  aspirations  roused  in  him  by  the  knowledge 
that  he  had  abundance  of  means,  which  were  totally 
irrealizable  without  carriers.  All  the  wealth  of  London 
and  New  York  piled  before  him  were  totally  unavail- 
able to  him  without  the  means  of  locomotion.  No 
Mnyamwezi  engages  himself  as  carrier  during  war-time. 
You  who  have  read  the  diary  of  my  '  Life  in  Unya- 
nyembe'  know  what  stubborn  Conservatives  the  Wanya- 
mwezi  are.  A  duty  lay  yet  before  me  which  I  owed 
to  my  illustrious  companion,  and  that  was  to  hurry  to 
the  coast  as  if  on  a  matter  of  life  and  death — act  for 
him  in  the  matter  of  enlisting  men  as  if  he  were  there 
himself — to  work  for  him  with  the  same  zeal  as  I  would 
for  myself — not  to  halt  or  rest  until  his  desires  should 
be  gratified.  And  this  I  vowed  to  do  ;  but  it  was  a 
death-blow  to  my  project  of  going  down  the  Nile,  and 
getting  news  of  Sir  S.  Baker. 

The  Doctor's  task  of  writing  his  letters  was  ended. 
He  delivered  into  my  hand  twenty  letters  for  Great 
Britain,  six  for  Bombay,  two  for  New  York,  and  one 
for  Zanzibar.  The  two  letters  for  New  York  were  for 
James  Gordon  Bennett,  Junior,  as  he  alone,  not  his 
father,  was  responsible  for  the  Expedition  sent  under 
my  command.  I  beg  the  reader's  pardon  for  repub- 
lishing one  of  these  letters  here,  as  its  spirit  and  style 


616  HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


indicate  the  man,  the  mere  knowledge  of  whose  life  or 
death  was  worth  a  costly  Expedition  : — 

Ujiji,  on  Tanganiea, 
East  Africa,  November,  1871. 

James  Gordon  Bennett,  Jr.,  Esq. 

My  dear  Sir — It  is  in  general  somewhat  difficult  to  write  to  one 
we  have  never  seen — it  feels  so  much  like  addressing  an  abstract  idea 
— but  the  presence  of  your  representative,  Mr.  H.  M.  Stanley,  in  this 
distant  region  takes  away  the  strangeness  I  should  otherwise  have 
felt,  and  in  writing  to  thank  you  for  the  extreme  kindness  that 
prompted  you  to  send  him,  I  feel  quite  at  home. 

If  I  explain  the  forlorn  condition  in  which  he  found  me  you  will 
easily  perceive  that  I  have  good  reason  to  use  very  strong  expressions 
of  gratitude.  I  came  to  ITjiji  off  a  tramp  of  between  four  hundred 
and  five  hundred  miles,  beneath  a  blazing  vertical  sun,  having  been 
baffled,  worried,  defeated  and  forced  to  return,  when  almost  in  sight 
of  the  end  of  the  geographical  part  of  my  mission,  by  a  number  of 
half-caste  Moslem  slaves  sent  to  me  from  Zanzibar,  instead  of  men. 
The  sore  heart  made  still  sorer  by  the  woeful  sights  I  had  seen  of 
man's  inhumanity  to  man  racked  and  told  on  the  bodily  frame,  and 
depressed  it  beyond  measure.  I  thought  that  I  was  dying  on  my  feet. 
It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  almost  every  step  of  the  weary  sultry 
way  was  in  pain,  and  I  reached  Ujiji  a  mere  ruckle  of  bones. 

There  I  found  that  some  five  hundred  pounds'  sterling  worth  of 
goods  which  I  had  ordered  from  Zanzibar  had  unaccountably  been 
entrusted  to  a  drunken  half-caste  Moslem  tailor,  who,  after  squander- 
ing them  for  sixteen  months  on  the  way  to  Ujiji,  finished  up  by 
selling  off  all  that  remained  for  slaves  and  ivory  for  himself.  He 
had  u  divined "  on  the  Koran  and  found  that  I  was  dead.  He  had 
also  written  to  the  Governor  of  Unyanyembe  that  he  had  sent  slaves 
after  me  to  Manyuema,  who  returned  and  reported  my  decease,  and 
begged  permission  to  sell  off  the  few  goods  that  his  drunken  appetite 
had  spared. 

He,  however,  knew  perfectly  well,  from  men  who  had  seen  me,  that 
I  was  alive,  and  waiting  for  the  goods  and  men ;  but  as  for  morality, 
he  is  evidently  an  idiot,  and  there  being  no  law  here  except  that  of 
the  dagger  or  musket,  I  had  to  sit  down  in  great  weakness,  destitute 
of  everything  save  a  few  barter  cloths  and  beads,  which  I  had  taken 
the  precaution  to  leave  here  in  case  of  extreme  need. 

The  near  prospect  of  beggary  among  Ujijians  made  me  miserable. 


Fkb.  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND, 


617 


I  could  not  despair,  because  I  laughed  so  much  at  a  friend  who,  on 
reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Zambezi,  said  that  he  was  tempted  to 
despair  on  breaking  the  photograph  of  his  wife.  We  could  have  no 
success  after  that.  Afterward  the  idea  of  despair  had  to  me  such  a 
strong  smack  of  the  ludicrous  that  it  was  out  of  the  question. 

Well,  when  I  had  got  to  about  the  lowest  verge,  vague  rumors  of 
an  English  visitor  reached  me.  I  thought  of  myself  as  the  man  who 
went  down  from  Jerusalem  to  Jericho  ;  but  neither  priest,  Levite  nor 
Samaritan  could  possibly  pass  my  way.  Yet  the  good  Samaritan  was 
close  at  hand,  and  one  of  my  people  rushed  up  at  the  top  of  his 
speed,  and,  in  great  excitement,  gasped  out,  "  An  Englishman  coming  I 
I  see  him !"  and  off  he  darted  to  meet  him. 

An  American  flag,  the  first  ever  seen  in  these  parts,  at  the  head  of 
a  caravan,  told  me  the  nationality  of  the  stranger. 

I  am  as  cold  and  non-demonstrative  as  we  islanders  are  usually 
reputed  to  be ;  but  your  kindness  made  my  frame  thrill.    It  was,  in 
deed,  overwhelming,  and  I  said  in  my  soul, "  Let  the  richest  blessings 
descend  from  the  Highest  on  you  and  yours !" 

The  news  Mr.  Stanley  had  to  tell  was  thrilling.  The  mighty 
political  changes  on  the  Continent;  the  success  of  the  Atlantic  cables; 
the  election  of  General  Grant,  and  many  other  topics  riveted  my 
attention  for  days  together,  and  had  an  immediate  and  beneficial 
effect  on  my  health.  I  had  been  without  news  from  home  for  years 
save  what  I  could  glean  from  a  few  '  Saturday  Eeviews '  and 
'Punch'  of  1868.  The  appetite  revived,  and  in  a  week  I  began  to 
feel  strong  again. 

Mr.  Stanley  brought  a  most  kind  and  encouraging  despatch  from 
Lord  Clarendon  (whose  loss  I  sincerely  deplore),  the  first  I  have 
received  from  the. Foreign  Office  since  1866,  and  information  that  the 
British  Government  had  kindly  sent  a  thousand  pounds  sterling  to  my 
aid.  Up  to  his  arrival  I  was  not  aware  of  any  pecuniary  aid.  I  came 
unsalaried,  but  this  want  is  now  happily  repaired,  and  I  am  anxious 
that  you  and  all  my  friends  should  know  that,  though  uncheered  by 
letter,  I  have  stuck  to  the  task  which  my  friend  Sir  Eoderick 
Murchison  set  me  with  "  John  Bullish  "  tenacity,  believing  that  all 
would  come  right  at  last. 

The  watershed  of  South  Central  Africa  is  over  seven  hundred 
miles  in  length.  The  fountains  thereon  are  almost  innumerable — 
that  is,  it  would  take  a  man's  lifetime  to  count  them.  From  the 
watershed  they  converge  into  four  large  rivers,  and  these  again  into 
two  mighty  streams  in  the  great  Nile  valley,  which  begins  in  ten 
degrees  to  twelve  degrees  south  latitude.     It  was  long  ere  light 


(»1S 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


dawned  on  the  ancient  problem  and  gave  me  a  clear  idea  of  the 
drainage.  I  had  to  feel  my  way,  and  every  step  of  the  way,  and  was, 
generally,  groping  in  the  dark — for  who  cared  where  the  rivers  ran? 
"  We  drank  our  fill  and  let  the  rest  run  by." 

The  Portuguese  who  visited  Cazembe  asked  for  slaves  and  ivory, 
and  heard  of  nothing  else.  I  asked  about  the  waters,  questioned  and 
cross-questioned,  until  I  was  almost  afraid  of  being  set  down  as 
afflicted  with  hydrocephalus. 

My  last  work,  in  which  I  have  been  greatly  hindered  from  want  of 
suitable  attendants,  was  following  the  central  line  of  drainage  down 
through  the  country  of  the  cannibals,  called  Manyuema,  or,  shortly, 
Manyema.  This  line  of  drainage  has  four  large  lakes  in  it.  The 
fourth  I  was  neur  when  obliged  to  turn.  It  is  from  cne  to  three 
miles  broad,  and  never  can  be  reached  at  any  point,  or  at  any  time  of 
the  year.  Two  western  drains,  the  Lufira,  or  Bar  tie  Frere's  River, 
flow  into  it  at  Lake  Kamolondo.  Then  ,  the  great  River  Lomame 
flows  through  Lake  Lincoln  into  it  too,  and  seems  to  form  the 
western  arm  of  the  Nile,  on  which  Petherick  traded. 

Now,  I  knew  about  six  hundred  miles  of  the  watershed,  and 
unfortunately  the  seventh  hundred  is  the  most  interesting  of  the 
whole ;  for  in  it,  if  I  am  not  mistaken,  four  fountains  arise  from  an 
earthen  mound,  and  the  last  of  the  four  becomes,  at  no  great  distance 
off,  a  large  river. 

Two  of  these  run  north  to  Egypt,  Lufira  and  Lomame,  and  two 
run  south  into  inner  Ethiopia,  as  the  Leambaye,  or  Upper  Zambezi,  and 
the  Kaful. 

Are  not  these  the  sources  of  the  Nile  mentioned  by  the  Secretary 
of  Minerva,  in  the  city  of  Sais,  to  Herodotus  ? 

I  have  heard  of  them  so  often,  and  at  great  distances  off,  that  1 
cannot  doubt  their  existence,  and  in  spite  of  the  sore  longing  for 
home  that  seizes  me  every  time  I  think  of  my  family,  I  wish  to  finish 
up  by  their  rediscovery. 

Five  hundred  pounds  sterling  worth  of  goods  have  again  un- 
accountably been  entrusted  to  slaves,  and  have  been  over  a  year  on 
the  way,  instead  of  four  months.  I  must  go  where  they  lie  at  your 
expense,  ere  I  can  put  the  natural  completion  to  my  work. 

And  if  my  disclosures  regarding  the  terrible  Ujijian  slavery  should 
lead  to  the  suppression  of  the  East  Coast  slave  trade,  I  shall  regard 
that  as  a  greater  matter  oy  far  than  the  discovery  of  all  the  Nile 
sources  together.  Now  that  you  have  done  with  domestic  slavery  for 
ever,  lend  us  your  powerful  aid  toward  this  great  object.  This  fine 
country  is  blighted,  as  with  a  curse  from  above,  in  order  that  th 


Feb.  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


61& 


slavery  privileges  of  the  petty  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  may  not  be  in- 
fringed, and  the  rights  of  the  Crown  of  Portugal,  which  are  mythical, 
should  be  kept  in  abeyance  till  some  future  time  when  Africa  will 
become  another  India  to  Portuguese  slave-traders. 

I  conclude  by  again  thanking  you  most  cordially  for  your  great 
generosity,  and  am, 

Gratefully  yours, 

DAVID  LIVINGSTONE. 

To  the  above  letter  I  have  nothing  to  add — it  speaks 
for  Hself;  but  I  then  thought  it  was  the  best  evidence  of 
my  success.  For  my  own  part,  I  cared  not  one  jot  or 
tittle  about  his  discoveries,  except  so  far  as  it  concerned 
the  newspaper  which  commissioned  me  for  the  "  search." 
It  is  true  I  felt  curious  as  to  the  result  of  his  travels  ;  but, 
since  he  confessed  that  he  had  not  completed  what  he 
had  begun,  I  felt  considerable  delicacy  to  ask  for  more 
than  he  could  afford  to  give.  His  discoveries  were  the 
fruits  of  his  own  labors — to  him  they  belonged — by 
their  publication  he  hoped  to  obtain  his  reward,  which 
he  desired  to  settle  on  his  children.  Yet  Livingstone  had 
a  higher  and  nobler  ambition  than  the  mere  pecuniary 
sum  he  would  receive  :  he  followed  the  dictates  of  duty. 
Never  was  such  a  willing  slave  to  that  abstract  virtue. 
His  inclinations  impelled  him  home,  the  fascinations  of 
which  it  required  the  sternest  resolves  to  resist.  With 
every  foot  of  new  ground  he  travelled  over  he  forged  a 
chain  of  sympathy  which  should  hereafter  bind  the 
Christian  nations  in  bonds  of  love  and  charity  to  the 
Heathen  of  the  African  tropics.  If  he  were  able  to 
complete  this  chain  of  love — by  actual  discovery  and 
description  ot  them  to  embody  such  peoples  and  nations 
as  still  live  in  darkness,  so  as  to  attract  the  good  and 
charitable  of  his  own  land  to  bestir  themselves  for  their 


620 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


redemption  and  salvation — this,  Livingstone  would  con- 
sider an  ample  reward.  "  A  delirious  and  fatuous  enter- 
prise, a  Quixotic  scheme  !"  some  will  say.  Not  it,  my 
friends ;  for  as  sure  as  the  sun  shines  on  both  Christian 
and  Infidel,  Civilized  and  Pagan,  the  day  of  enlighten- 
ment will  come  ;  and,  though  the  Apostle  of  Africa  may 
not  behold  it  himself,  nor  we  younger  men,  nor  yet  oui 
children,  the  Hereafter  will  see  it,  and  posterity  will 
recognise  the  daring  pioneer  of  its  civilization. 

The  following  items  are  extracted  in  their  entirety 
from  my  Diary  : 

March  12th. — The  Arabs  have  sent  me  as  many  as 
forty-five  letters  to  carry  to  the  coast.  I  am  turned 
courier  in  my  latter  days ;  but  the  reason  is  that  no 
regularly  organized  caravans  are  permitted  to  leave 
Unyanyembe  now,  because  of  the  war  with  Mirambo. 
What  if  I  had  stayed  all  this  time  at  Unyanyembe 
waiting  for  the  war  to  end !  It  is  my  opinion  that  the 
Arabs  will  not  be  able  to  conquer  Mirambo  under  nine 
months  yet. 

To-night  the  natives  have  gathered  themselves  to- 
gether to  give  me  a  farewell  dance  in  front  of  my 
house.  I  find  them  to  be  the  pagazis  of  Singiri,  chief 
of  Mtesa's  caravan.  My  men  joined  in,  and,  captivated 
by  the  music  despite  myself,  I  also  struck  in,  and  per- 
formed the  i(  light  fantastic,"  to  the  intense  admiration 
of  my  braves,  who  were  delighted  to  see  their  master 
unbend  a  little  from  his  usual  stiffness. 

It  is  a  wild  dance  altogether.  The  music  is  lively, 
and  evoked  from  the  sonorous  sound  of  four  drums, 
which  are  arranged  before  the  bodies  of  four  men,  who 
stand  in  the  centre  of  the  weird  circle.  Bombay,  as  ever 
comical,  never  so  much  at  home  as  when  in  the  dance 


11a rch,  1872.]  HOMEWARD  BOUND.  621 

of  the  Mrima,  has  my  water-bucket  on  his  head  : 
Chowpereh — the  sturdy,  the  nimble,  sure-footed  Chow- 
pereh — has  an  axe  in  his  hand,  and  wears  a  goatskin  on 
his  head ;  Baraka  has  my  bearskin,  and  handles  a 
spear ;  Mabruki,  the  "  Bull-headed,"  has  entered  into 
the  spirit  of  the  thing,  and  steps  up  and  down  like  a 
solemn  elephant ;  Ulimengo  has  a  gun,  and  is  a  fierce 
Drawcansir,  and  you  would  imagine  he  was  about  to  do 
battle  to  a  hundred  thousand,  so  ferocious  is  he  in 
appearance  ;  Khamisi  and  Kamna  are  before  the  drum- 
mers, back  to  back,  kicking  up  ambitiously  at  the  stars ; 
Asmani, — the  embodiment  of  giant  strength, — a  tower- 
ing Titan, — has  also  a  gun,  with  which  he  is  dealing 
blows  in  the  air,  as  if  he  were  Thor,  slaying  myriads 
with  his  hammer.  The  scruples  and  passions  of  us  all 
are  in  abeyance ;  we  are  contending  demons  under  the 
heavenly  light  of  the  stars,  enacting  only  the  part  of  a 
weird  drama,  quickened  into  action  and  movement  by 
the  appalling  energy  and  thunder  of  the  drums. 

The  warlike  music  is  ended,  and  another  is  started. 
The  choragus  has  fallen  on  his  knees,  and  dips  his  head 
two  or  three  times  in  an  excavation  in  the  ground,  and 
a  choir,  also  on  their  knees,  repeat  in  dolorous  tones  the 
last  words  of  a  slow  and  solemn  refrain.  The  words 
are  literally  translated  : — 

Choragus.  Oh-oh-oh !  the  white  man  is  going  home ! 

Choir.       Oh-oh-oh !  going  home ! 

Going  home,  oh-oh-oh ! 

Choragus.  To  the  happy  island  on  the  sea, 

Where  the  beads  are  plenty,  oh-oh-oh! 

Choir.       Oh-oh-oh !  where  the  beads  are  plenty, 
Oh-oh-oh ! 


622  HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 

Choragu8.  While  Singiri  has  kept  us,  oh,  very  long 
From  our  homes  very  long,  oh-oh-oh  ! 

Choir.        From  our  homes,  oh-oh-oh  ! 

Oh-oh-oh ! 

Choragu8.  And  we  have  had  no  food  for  very  long — 
We  are  half-starved,  oh,  for  so  long 
Bana  Singiri ! 

Choir.       For  so  very  long,  oh-oh-oh ! 

Bana  Singiri-Singiri ! 

Singiri !  oh,  Singiri ! 

Ghoragu8.  Mirambo  has  gone  to  war 

To  fight  against  the  Arabs  ; 
The  Arabs  and  Wangwana 
Have  gone  to  fight  Mirambo ! 

Choir.       Oh-oh-oh !  to  fight  Mirambo ! 

Oh,  Mirambo  !  Mirambo  ! 
Oh,  to  fight  Mirambo  ! 

Choragus.  But  the  white  man  will  make  us  glad, 

He  is  going  home !    For  he  is  going  homo. 
And  he  will  make  us  glad !  Sh-sh-sh  ! 

Choir.       The  white  man  will  make  us  glad  !  Sh-sh-sh  ! 

Sh  sh-h-h  sh-h-h-h-h-h ! 

Um-m — mu — um-m-m — sh ! 


This  is  the  singular  farewell  which  I  received  from 
the  Wanyamwezi  of  Singiri,  and  for  its  remarkable 
epic  beauty,  rhythmic  excellence,  and  impassioned  force, 
1  have  immortalized  it  in  the  pages  of  my  book,  as 
one  of  the  most  wonderful  productions  of  the  chorus- 
loving  children  of  Unyamwezi. 

March  13th. — The  last  day  of  my  stay  with  Living- 
stone has  come  and  gone,  and  the  last  night  we  shall 
be  together  is  present,  and  I  cannot  evade  the  morrow ! 
I  feel  as  though  I  would  rebel  against  the  fate  which 
drives  me  away  from  him.    The  minutes  beat  fast,  and 


March,  1872.]  HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


623 


grow  into  hours.  Our  door  is  closed,  and  we  are  both 
of  us  busy  with  our  own  thoughts.  What  his  thoughts 
are  I  know  not.  Mine  are  sad.  My  days  seem  to 
have  been  spent  in  an  Elysian  field ;  otherwise,  why 
should  I  so  keenly  regret  the  near  approach  of  the 
parting  hour  ?  Have  I  not  been  battered  by  successive 
fevers,  prostrate  with  agony  day  after  day  lately  ? 
Have  I  not  raved  and  stormed  in  madness?  Have  I 
not  clenched  my  fists  in  fury,  and  fought  with  the  wild 
strength  of  despair  when  in  delirium  ?  Yet,  I  regret 
to  surrender  the  pleasure  I  have  felt  in  this  man's 
society,  though  so  dearly  purchased.  And  I  cannot 
resist  the  sure  advance  of  time,  which  flies  this  night 
as  if  it  mocked  me,  and  gloated  on  the  misery  it 
created  !  Be  it  so !  How  many  times  have  I  not 
suffered  the  pang  of  parting  with  friends  !  I  wished 
to  linger  longer,  but  the  inevitable  would  come — Fate 
sundered  us.  This  is  the  same  regretful  feeling,  only 
it  is  more  poignant,  and  the  farewell  may  be  for  ever ! 
For  ever  ?  And  "  for  ever,"  echo  the  reverberations 
of  a  woful  whisper. 

I  have  noted  down  all  he  has  said  to-night ;  but  the 
reader  shall  not  share  it  with  me.    It  is  mine  ! 

I  am  jealous  as  he  is  himself  of  his  Journal ;  and  I 
have  written  in  German  text,  and  in  round  hand,  on 
either  side  of  it,  on  the  waterproof  canvas  cover, 
"  Positively  not  to  be  opened  ;"  to  which  he  has 
affixed  his  signature.  I  have  stenographed  every  word 
he  has  said  to  me  respecting  the  equable  distribution 
of  certain  curiosities  among  his  friends  and  children, 
and  his  last  wish  about  "  his  dear  old  friend,  Sir 
Roderick  Murchison,,,  because  he  has  been  getting 
anxious  about  him  ever  since  we  received  the  news- 


624 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


papers  at  Ugunda,  when  we  read  that  the  old  man  was 
suffering  from  a  paralytic  stroke.  I  must  be  sure  to 
send  him  the  news,  as  soon  as  I  get  to  Aden  ;  and  I 
have  promised  that  he  will  receive  the  message  from 
me  quicker  than  anything  was  ever  received  in  Central 
Africa. 

"  To-morrow  night,  Doctor,  you  will  be  alone  !" 

"  Yes ;  the  house  will  look  as  though  a  death  had 
taken  place.  You  had  better  stop  until  the  rains, 
which  are  now  near,  are  over." 

"  I  would  to  God  I  could,  my  dear  Doctor ;  but  every 
day  I  stop  here,  now  that  there  is  no  necessity  for  me 
to  stay  longer,  keeps  you  from  your  work  and  home." 

"  I  know  ;  but  consider  your  health — you  are  not 
fit  to  travel.  What  is  it  ?  Only  a  few  weeks  longer. 
You  will  travel  to  the  coast  just  as  quickly  when  the 
rains  are  over  as  you  will  by  going  now.  The  plains 
will  be  inundated  between  here  and  the  coast." 

"  You  think  so  ;  but  I  will  reach  the  coast  in  forty 
days;  if  not  in  forty,  I  will  in  fifty — certain.  The 
thought  that  I  am  doing  you  an  important  service  will 
spur  me  on/' 

March  14th. — At  dawn  we  were  up,  the  bales  and 
baggage  were  taken  outside  of  the  building,  and  the 
men  prepared  themselves  for  the  first  march  towards 
home. 

We  had  a  sad  breakfast  together.  I  could  not  eat, 
my  heart  was  too  full ;  neither  did  my  companion 
seem  to  have  an  appetite.  We  found  something 
to  do  which  kept  us  longer  together.  At  8  o'clock 
I  was  not  gone,  and  I  had  thought  to  have  been  off 
at  5  a.m. 

"  Doctor,"  said  I,  "  I  will  leave  two  men  with  you, 


March,  1872.]  HOMEWARD  BOUND, 


62S 


who  will  stop  to-day  and  to-morrow  with  you,  for  it 
may  be  that  you  have  forgotten  something  in  the  hurry 
/f  my  departure.  I  will  halt  a  day  at  Tura,  on  the 
frontier  of  Unyamwezi,  for  your  last  word,  and  your 
last  wish ;  and  now  we  must  part — there  is  no  help  for 
it.  Good-bye." 

"  Oh,  I  am  coming  with  you  a  little  way.  I  must 
see  you  off  on  the  road." 

"  Thank  you.  Now,  my  men,  Home  !  Kirangozi, 
lift  the  flag,  and  March  !" 

The  house  looked  desolate — it  faded  from  our  view. 
Old  times,  and  the  memories  of  my  aspirations  and 
kindling  hopes,  came  strong  on  me.  The  old  hills 
round  about,  that  I  once  thought  tame  and  uninteresting, 
had  become  invested  with  histories  and  reminiscences 
for  me.  On  that  burzani  I  have  sat  hour  after  hour, 
dreaming,  and  hoping,  and  sighing.  On  that  col  I  stood, 
watching  the  battle  and  the  destruction  of  Tabora. 
Under  that  roof  I  have  sickened  and  been  delirious,  and 
cried  out  like  a  child  at  the  fate  that  threatened  my 
mission.  Under  that  banian  tree  lay  my  dead  comrade 
— poor  Shaw !  I  would  have  given  a  fortune  to  have 
had  him  by  my  side  at  this  time.  From  that  house  I 
started  on  my  journey  to  Ujiji ;  to  it  I  returned  as  to  a 
friend,  with  a  newer  and  dearer  companion  ;  and  now 
I  leave  all.  Already  it  all  appears  like  a  strange 
dream. 

We  walked  side  by  side ;  the  men  lifted  their  voices 
in  a  song.  I  took  long  looks  at  Livingstone,  to 
impress  his  features  thoroughly  on  my  memory. 

"  The  thing  is,  Doctor,  so  far  as  I  can  understand 
it,  you  do  not  intend  to  return  home  until  you  have 
satisfied  yourself  about  the  *  Sources  of  the  Nile.' 

2  s 


626 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


When  you  have  satisfied  yourself,  you  will  come  home 
and  satisfy  others.    Is  it  not  so  ?" 

"  That  is  it,  exactly.  When  your  men  come  back,  I 
shall  immediately  start  for  Ufipa ;  then,  crossing  the 
Rungwa  River,  I  shall  strike  south,  and  round  the 
extremity  of  the  Tanganika.  Then,  a  south-east  course 
will  take  me  to  Chicumbi's,  on  the  Luapula.  On  cross- 
ing the  Luapula,  I  shall  go  direct  west  to  the  copper- 
mines  of  Katanga.  Eight  days  south  of  Katanga,  the 
natives  declare  the  fountains  to  be.  When  I  have 
found  them,  I  shall  return  by  Katanga  to  the  under- 
ground houses  of  Rua.  From  the  caverns,  ten  days 
north-east  will  take  me  to  Lake  Kamolondo.  I  shall 
be  able  to  travel  from  the  lake,  in  your  boat,  up  the 
River  Lufira,  to  Lake  Lincoln.  Then,  coming  down 
again,  I  can  proceed  north,  by  the  Lualaba,  to  the 
fourth  lake — which,  I  think,  will  explain  the  whole 
problem  ;  and  I  will  probably  find  that  it  is  either 
Chowambe  (Baker's  lake),  or  Piaggia's  lake." 

"  And  how  long  do  you  think  this  little  journey  will 
take  you  ?" 

"  A  year  and  a  half,  at  the  furthest,  from  the  day  I 
leave  Unyanyembe." 

"  Suppose  you  say  two  years ;  contingencies  might 
arise,  you  know.  It  will  be  well  for  me  to  hire  these 
new  men  for  two  years  ;  the  day  of  their  engagement 
to  begin  from  their  arrival  at  Unyanyembe." 

"  Yes,  that  will  do  excellently  well." 

"  Now,  my  dear  Doctor,  the  best  friends  must 
part.  You  have  come  far  enough ;  let  me  beg  of  you 
to  turn  back." 

"  Well,  I  will  say  this  to  you :  you  have  done  what 
few  men  could  do — far  better  than  some  great  travellers 


March,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


627 


I  know.  And  I  am  grateful  to  you  for  what  you  have 
done  for  me.  God  guide  you  safe  home,  and  bless  you, 
my  friend." 

"  And  may  God  bring  you  safe  back  to  us  all,  my 
dear  friend.    Farewell !" 
"  Farewell !" 

We  wrung  each  other's  hands,  and  I  had  to  tear 
myself  away  before  I  unmanned  myself ;  but  Susi,  and 
Chumah,  and  Hamoydah — the  Doctor's  faithful  fellows 
— they  must  all  shake  and  kiss  my  hands  before  I  could 
quite  turn  away.    I  betrayed  myself! 

"  Good-bye,  Doctor — dear  friend  !" 

"  Good-bye  !" 

"  March  !  Why  do  you  stop  ?  Go  on  !  Are  you 
not  going  home  ?"  And  my  people  were  driven  before 
me.  No  more  weakness.  I  shall  show  them  such 
marching  as  will  make  them  remember  me.  In  forty 
days  I  shall  do  what  took  me  three  months  to  perform 
before. 

My  friendly  reader,  I  wrote  the  above  extracts  in  my 
Diary  on  the  evening  of  each  day.  I  look  at  them  now 
after  six  months  have  passed  away  ;  yet  I  am  not  ashamed 
of  them  ;  my  eyes  feel  somewhat  dimmed  at  the  recollec- 
tion of  the  parting.  I  dared  not  erase,  nor  modify  what  I 
had  penned,  while  my  feelings  were  strong.  God  grant 
that  if  ever  you  take  to  travelling  in  Africa  you  will  get 
as  noble  and  true  a  man  for  your  companion  as  David 
Livingstone  !  For  four  months  and  four  days  I  lived 
with  him  in  the  same  house,  or  in  the  same  boat,  or  in 
the  same  tent,  and  I  never  found  a  fault  in  him.  I  am 
a  man  of  a  quick  temper,  and  often  without  sufficient 
cause,  I  dare  say,  have  broken  ties  of  friendship ;  but 
with  Livingstone  I  never  had  cause  for  resentment,  but 


628 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


each  day's  life  with  him  added  to  ray  admiration  for 
him. 

I  am  not  going  to  inflict  on  the  reader  a  repetition  of 
our  march  back,  except  to  record  certain  incidents  which 
occurred  to  us  as  we  journeyed  to  the  coast. 

March  17th. — We  came  to  the  Kwalah  River,  which 
a  native  of  Rubuga  called  Nyahuba,  and  another  Unya- 
huha.  The  first  rain  of  the  Masika  season  fell  on  this 
day  ;  I  shall  be  mildewed  before  I  reach  the  coast. 
Last  year's  Masika  began  at  Bagamoyo,  March  23rd, 
and  ended  30th  April. 

The  next  day  I  halted  the  expedition  at  Western 
Tura,  on  the  Unyamwezi  frontier,  arid  on  the  20th 
arrived  at  Eastern  Tura ;  when,  soon  after,  we  heard  a 
loud  report  of  a  gun,  and  Susi  and  Hamoydah,  the 
Doctor's  servants,  with  Uredi,  and  another  of  my  men, 
appeared  with  a  letter  for  "  Sir  Thomas  MacLear, 
Observatory,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,"  and  one  for 
myself,  which  read  as  follows  : — 

«  Kwihara,  March  15,  1872. 

"  Dear  Stanley, 

"If  you  can  telegraph,  on  your  arrival  in 
London,  be  particular,  please,  to  say  how  Sir  Roderick 
is.  You  put  the  matter  exactly  yesterday,  when  you 
said  that  I  was  '  not  yet  satisfied  about  the  Sources ; 
but  as  soon  as  I  shall  be  satisfied,  I  shall  return  and 
give  satisfactory  reasons  fit  for  other  people.'  This  is 
just  as  it  stands. 

"I  wish  I  could  give  you  a  better  word  than  the 
Scotch  one  to  *  put  a  stout  heart  to  a  stey  brae ' — (a 
steep  ascent) — for  you  will  do  that ;  and  I  am  thankful 
that,  before   going   away,    the    fever  had  changed 


Mabch,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


into  the  intermittent,  or  safe  form.  I  would  not  have 
let  you  go,  but  with  great  concern,  had  you  still  been 
troubled  with  the  continued  type.  I  feel  comfortable 
in  commending  you  to  the  guardianship  of  the  good 
Lord  and  Father  of  all. 

"I  am  gratefully  yours, 

"  David  Livingstone. 

u  I  have  worked  as  hard  as  I  could  copying  obser- 
vations made  in  one  line  of  march  from  Kabuire,  back 
again  to  Cazembe,  and  on  to  Lake  Bangweolo,  and  am 
quite  tired  out.  My  large  figures  fill  six  sheets  of  fools- 
cap, and  many  a  day  will  elapse  ere  I  take  to  copying 
again.  I  did  my  duty  when  ill  at  Ujiji  in  1869,  and 
am  not  to  blame,  though  they  grope  a  little  in  the  dark 
at  home.  Some  Arab  letters  have  come,  and  I  forward 
them  to  you.  "  D.  L. 

«  March  16,  1872. 

"  P.S. — I  have  written  a  note  this  morning  to  Mr. 
Murray,  50,  Albemarle  Street,  the  publisher,  to  help 
you,  if  necessary,  in  sending  the  Journal  by  book 
post,  or  otherwise,  to  Agnes.  If  you  call  on  him  you 
will  find  him  a  frank  gentleman.  A  pleasant  journey 
to  you. 

"  David  Livingstone. 

"  To  Henry  M.  Stanley,  Esq., 

Wherever  he  may  be  found." 

Several  Wangwana  arrived  at  Tura  to  join  our  re- 
turning Expedition,  as  they  were  afraid  to  pass  through 
Ugogo  by  themselves ;  others  were  reported  coming ; 
but  as  all  were  sufficiently  warned  at  Unyanyembe  that 


630 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  caravan  would  take  place  positively  on  the  14th, 
I  was  not  disposed  to  wait  longer. 

As  we  were  leaving  Tura,  on  the  21st,  Susi  and 
Hamoydah  were  sent  back  to  the  Doctor,  while  we  con- 
tinued our  march  to  Nghwhalah  River. 

Two  days  afterwards  we  arrived  before  the  village  of 
Ngaraiso,  into  which  the  head  of  the  caravan  attempted 
to  enter,  but  the  angry  Wakimbu  forcibly  ejected  them. 

On  the  24th,  we  encamped  in  the  jungle,  in  what 
is  called  the  "  tongoni,"  or  clearing.  It  was  a  most 
romantic  place,  as  may  be  gathered  from  the  sketch 
on  page  609. 

This  region  was  at  one  period  in  a  most  flourishing 
state  ;  the  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile ;  the  timber  is 
large,  and  would  be  valuable  near  the  coast ;  and,  what 
is  highly  appreciated  in  Africa,  there  is  an  abundance 
of  water.  We  camped  near  a  smooth,  broad  hump  of 
syenite,  at  one  end  of  which  rose,  upright  and  grand,  a 
massive  square  rock,  which  towered  above  several  small 
trees  in  the  vicinity ;  at  the  other  end  stood  up  another 
singular  rock,  which  was  loosened  at  the  base. 

The  members  of  the  Expedition  made  use  of  the  great 
sheet  of  rock  to  grind  their  grain  ;  a  common  proceed- 
ing in  these  lands  where  villages  are  not  near,  or  when 
the  people  are  hostile. 

On  the  27th  of  March  we  entered  Kiwyeh.  At  dawn, 
when  leaving  Mdaburu  River,  the  solemn  warning  had 
been  given  that  we  were  about  entering  Ugogo  ;  and  as 
we  left  Kaniyaga  village,  with  trumpet-like  blasts  of 
the  guide's  horn,  we  filed  into  the  depths  of  an  expanse 
of  rustling  Indian  corn.  The  ears  were  ripe  enough  for 
parching  and  roasting,  and  thus  was  one  anxiety  dis- 
pelled by  its  appearance  ;  for  generally,  in  early  March, 


Mabch,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


631 


caravans  suffer  from  famine,  which  overtakes  both 
natives  and  strangers. 

We  soon  entered  the  gum-tree  districts,  and  we  knew 
we  were  in  Ugogo.  The  forests  of  this  country- 
are  chiefly  composed  of  the  gum  and  thorn  species — 
mimosa  and  tamarisk,  with  often  a  variety  of  wild  fruit 
trees.  The  grapes  were  plentiful,  though  they  were  not 
quite  ripe ;  and  there  was  also  a  round,  reddish  fruit 
with  the  sweetness  of  the  Sultana  grape,  with  leaves 
like  a  gooseberry-bush.  There  was  another  about  the 
size  of  an  apricot,  which  was  excessively  bitter. 

Emerging  from  the  entangled  thorn  jungle,  the 
extensive  settlements  of  Kiwyeh  came  into  view ;  and 
to  the  east  of  the  chiefs  village  we  found  a  camping 
place  under  the  shade  of  a  group  of  colossal  baobab. 

The  population  of  Kiwyeh  is  composed  of  Wakinibu 
and  Wagogo,  in  about  equal  proportions.  Old  Kiwyeh, 
who  lived  in  the  days  of  Speke  and  Grant,  is  dead,  and 
his  young  son  reigns  over  the  district.  Though  the 
young  man's  dominion  is  fair  to  the  eye,  and  his  loyal 
subjects  number  their  cattle  by  hundreds,  yet  his  position 
is  a  precarious  one,  for  his  extreme  youth  offers  great 
temptations  to  the  Wagogo  chiefs  about  him. 

We  had  barely  encamped  when  we  heard  the  boom- 
ing, bellowing  war  horns  sounding  everywhere,  and 
we  espied  messengers  darting  swiftly  in  every  direc- 
tion giving  the  alarm  of  war.  When  first  informed 
that  the  horns  were  calling  the  people  to  arm  them- 
selves, and  prepare  for  war,  I  half  suspected  that  an 
attack  was  about  to  be  made  on  the  Expedition  ;  but  the 
words  "  Urugu,  warugu  " — (thief!  thieves!) — bandied 
about,  declared  the  cause.  Mukondoku,  the  chief  of  the 
populous  district  two  days  to  the  north-east,  where  we 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


experienced  some  excitement  when  westward-bound, 
was  marching  to  attack  the  young  Mtemi,  Kiwyeh,  and 
Kiwyeh's  soldiers  were  called  to  the  fight.  The  men 
rushed  to  their  villages,  and  in  a  short  time  we  saw 
them  arrayed  in  full  fighting  costume.  Feathers  of  the 
ostrich  and  the  eagle  waved  over  their  fronts,  or  the 
mane  of  the  zebra  surrounded  their  heads ;  their  knees 
and  ankles  were  hung  with  little  bells;  joho  robes 
floated  behind,  from  their  necks  ;  spears,  assegais,  knob- 
sticks, and  bows  were  flourished  over  their  heads,  or 
held  in  their  right  hands,  as  if  ready  for  hurling.  On 
each  flank  of  a  large  body  which  issued  from  the  prin- 
cipal village,  and  which  came  at  a  uniform  swinging 
double-quick,  the  ankle  and  knee  bells  all  chiming  in 
admirable  unison,  were  a  cloud  of  skirmishers,  consist- 
ing of  the  most  enthusiastic,  who  exercised  themselves 
in  mimic  war  as  they  sped  along.  Column  after 
column,  companies,  and  groups  from  every  village 
hurried  on  past  our  camp  until,  probably,  there  were 
nearly  a  thousand  soldiers  gone  to  the  war.  This  scene 
gave  me  a  better  idea  than  anything  else  of  the  weak- 
ness of  even  the  largest  caravans  which  travelled  be- 
tween Zanzibar  and  Unyanyembe. 

At  night  the  warriors  returned  from  the  forest ;  the 
alarm  proved  to  be  without  foundation.  At  first  it 
was  generally  reported  that  the  invaders  were  Wahehe, 
or  the  Wadirigo,  as  that  tribe  are  scornfully  called  from 
their  thieving  propensities.  The  Wahehe  frequently 
make  a  foray  upon  the  fat  cattle  of  Ugogo.  They 
travel  from  their  own  country  in  the  south-east,  and 
advance  through  the  jungle,  and,  when  about  to  ap- 
proach the  herds,  stoop  down,  covering  their  bodies 
with  their  shields  of  bull-hide.  Having  arrived  between 


March,  1872.]  HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


633 


the  cattle  and  the  herdsmen,  they  suddenly  rise  up 
and  begin  to  switch  the  cattle  heartily,  and,  having 
started  them  off  into  the  jungle  in  the  care  of  men 
already  detailed  for  the  work,  they  turn  about,  and 
plant  their  shields  before  them,  to  fight  the  aroused 
shepherds. 

On  the  30th  we  arrived  at  Khonze,  which  is  remark- 
able for  the  mighty  globes  of  foliage  which  the  giant 
sycamores  and  baobabs  put  forth  above  the  plain.  The 
chief  of  Khonze  boasts  of  four  tembes,  out  of  which  he 
could  muster  in  the  aggregate  fifty  armed  men ;  yet 
this  fellow,  instigated  by  the  Wanyamwezi  residents, 
prepared  to  resist  our  advance,  because  I  only  sent  him 
three  doti — twelve  yards  of  cloth — as  honga. 

We  were  halted,  waiting  the  return  of  a  few  friendly 
Wagogo  travellers  who  had  joined  us,  and  who  were 
asked  to  assist  Bombay  in  the  negotiation  of  the  tribute, 
when  the  Wagogo  returned  to  us  at  breathless  speed,  and 
shouted  out  to  me,  "  Why  do  you  halt  here  ?  Do 
you  wish  to  die?  These  pagans  wil]  not  take  the 
tribute,  but  thev  boast  that  they  will  eat  up  all  your 
cloth." 

The  renegade  Wanyamwezi  who  had  married  into 
Wagogo  families  were  always  our  bane  in  this  country. 
As  the  chief  of  Khonze  came  up  I  ordered  the  men  to 
load  their  guns,  and  I  loaded  my  own  ostentatiously  in 
his  presence,  and  then  strode  up  to  him,  and  asked  if 
he  had  come  to  take  the  cloth  by  force,  or  if  he  were 
going  to  accept  quietly  what  I  would  give  him.  As 
the  Mnyamwezi  who  caused  this  show  of  hostilities  was 
beginning  to  speak,  I  caught  him  by  the  throat,  and 
threatened  to  make  his  nose  flatter  if  he  attempted  to 
speak  again  in  my  presence,  and  to  shoot  hira  first,  il 


G34 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


we  should  be  forced  to  fight.  The  rascal  w  as  then 
pushed  away  into  the  rear.  The  chief,  who  was  highly 
amused  with  this  proceeding,  laughed  loudly  at  the 
discomfiture  of  the  parasite,  and  in  a  short  time  he 
and  I  had  settled  the  tribute  to  our  mutual  satisfaction, 
and  we  parted  great  friends.  The  Expedition  arrived 
at  Sanza  that  night. 

On  the  31st  we  came  to  Kamyenyi,  to  the  great 
Mtemi — Magomba's — whose  son  and  heir  is  Mtundu 
M'gondeh.  As  we  passed  by  the  tembe  of  the  great 
Sultan,  the  msagira,  or  chief  counsellor,  a  pleasant  grey- 
haired  man,  was  at  work  making  a  thorn  fence  around 
a  patch  of  young  corn.  He  greeted  the  caravan  with 
a  sonorous  "  Yambo,"  and,  putting  himself  at  its  head, 
lie  led  the  way  to  our  camp.  When  introduced  to  me 
he  was  very  cordial  in  his  manner.  He  was  offered  a 
kiti — stool — and  began  to  talk  very  affably.  He  re- 
membered my  predecessors,  Burton,  Speke,  and  Grant, 
very  well ;  declared  me  to  be  much  younger  than  any 
of  them ;  and,  recollecting  that  one  of  the  white  men 
used  to  drink  asses'  milk  (Burton  ?),  offered  to  procure 
me  some.  The  way  I  drank  it  seemed  to  give  him 
very  great  satisfaction. 

His  son,  Unamapokera,  was  a  tall  man  of  thirty  or 
thereabouts,  and  he  conceived  a  great  friendship  for 
me,  and  promised  that  the  tribute  should  be  very  light, 
and  that  he  would  send  a  man  to  show  me  the  way  to 
Myumi,  which  was  a  village  on  the  frontier  of  Kanyenyi, 
by  which  I  would  be  enabled  to  avoid  the  rapacious 
Kisewah,  who  was  in  the  habit  of  enforcing  large 
tribute  from  caravans. 

With  the  aid  of  Unamapokera  and  his  father,  we 
cortrived  to  be  mulcted  very  lightly,  for  we  only  paid 


Apkil,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


635 


ten  doti,  while  Burton  was  compelled  to  pay  sixty  doti, 
or  two  hundred  and  forty  yards  of  cloth. 

On  the  1st  of  April,  rising  early,  we  reached  Myumi, 
after  a  four  hours'  march ;  then  plunged  into  the 
jungle,  and,  about  2  p.m.,  arrived  at  a  large  ziwa,  or 
pond,  situate  in  the  middle  of  the  jungle ,  and  on  the 
next  day,  at  10  a.m.,  reached  the  fields  of  Mapanga. 
We  were  passing  the  village  of  Mapanga  to  a  resting- 


CNAMAPOKERA. 


place  beyond  the  village,  where  we  might  breakfast  and 
settle  the  honga,  when  a  lad  rushed  forward  to  meet 
us,  and  asked  us  where  we  were  going.  Having 
received  a  reply  that  we  were  going  to  a  camping-place, 
he  hastened  on  ahead,  and  presently  we  heard  him 
talking  to  some  men  in  a  field  on  our  right. 

In  the  meantime,  we  had  found  a  comfortable  shady 


636 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


place,  and  had  come  to  a  halt ;  the  men  were  reclining 
on  the  ground,  or  standing  up  near  their  respective 
loads  ;  Bombay  was  about  opening  a  bale,  when  we 
heard  a  great  rush  of  men,  and  loud  shouts,  and,  imme- 
diately after,  out  rushed  from  the  jungle  near  by  a 
body  of  forty  or  fifty  armed  men,  who  held  their  spears 
above  their  heads,  or  were  about  to  draw  their  bows, 
with  a  chief  at  their  head,  all  uttering  such  howls  of 
rage  as  only  savages  can,  which  sounded  like  a  long- 
drawn  "  Hhaat-uh — Hhaat — uhh-uhh,"  which  meant, 
unmistakably,  "You  will,  will  you?  No,  you  will 
not !" — at  once  determined,  defiant,  and  menacing. 

I  had  suspected  that  the  voices  I  heard  boded  no 
good  to  us,  and  I  had  accordingly  prepared  my  weapons 
and  cartridges.  Yerily,  what  a  fine  chance  for  adven- 
ture this  was !  One  spear  flung  at  us,  or  one  shot  fired 
into  this  minatory  mob  of  savages,  and  the  opposing 
bands  had  been  plunged  into  a  fatal  conflict !  There 
would  have  been  no  order  of  battle,  no  pomp  of  war, 
but  a  murderous  strife,  a  quick  firing  of  breech-loaders, 
and  volleys  from  flint-lock  muskets,  mixed  with  the 
flying  of  spears  and  twanging  of  bows,  the  cowardly 
running  away  at  once,  pursued  by  yelping  savages ; 
and  who  knows  how  it  all  would  have  terminated  ? 
Forty  spears  against  forty  guns — but  how  many  guns 
would  not  have  decamped  ?  Perhaps  all,  and  I  should 
have  been  left  with  my  boy  gun-bearers  to  have  my 
jugular  deliberately  severed,  or  to  be  decapitated, 
leaving  my  head  to  adorn  a  tall  pole  in  the  centre  of  a 
Kigogo  village,  like  poor  Monsieur  Maizan's  at  Dege  la 
Mhora,  in  Uzaramo.  Happy  end  of  an  Expedition ! 
And  the  Doctor's  Journal  lost  for  ever — the  fruits  of 
six  years'  labor ! 


April,  1872.] 


HOMEWABD  BOUND. 


637 


But  in  this  land  it  will  not  do  to  fight  unless  driven 
to  the  very  last  extremity.  No  belligerent  Mungo  Park 
can  be  successful  in  Ugogo  unless  he  has  a  sufficient 
force  of  men  with  him.  With  five  hundred  Europeans 
I  could  traverse  Africa  from  north  to  south,  by  tact, 
and  the  moral  effect  that  such  a  force  would  inspire. 
"Very  little  fighting  would  be  required. 

Without  rising  from  the  bale  on  which  I  was  seated, 
I  requested  the  kirangozi  to  demand  an  explanation  of 
their  furious  hubbub  and  threatening  aspect ; — if  they 
were  come  to  rob  us. 

"  No,"  said  the  chief;  "we  do  not  want  to  stop  the 
road,  or  to  rob  you ;  but  we  want  the  tribute." 

"  But  don't  you  see  us  halted,  and  the  bale  opened 
to  send  it  to  you  ?  We  have  come  so  far  from  your 
village  that  after  the  tribute  is  settled  we  can  proceed 
on  our  way,  as  the  day  is  yet  young." 

The  chief  burst  into  a  loud  laugh,  and  was  joined  by 
ourselves.  He  evidently  felt  ashamed  of  his  conduct ; 
for  he  voluntarily  offered  the  explanation,  that  as  he 
and  his  men  were  cutting  wood  to  make  a  new  fence 
for  his  village,  a  lad  came  up  to  him,  and  said  that  a 
caravan  of  Wangwana  were  about  passing  through  the 
country  without  stopping  to  explain  who  they  were. 
We  were  soon  very  good  friends.  He  begged  of  me 
to  make  rain  for  him,  as  his  crops  were  suffering,  and 
no  rain  had  fallen  for  months.  I  told  him  that  though 
white  people  were  very  great  and  clever  people,  much 
superior  to  the  Arabs,  yet  we  could  not  make  rain. 
Though  very  much  disappointed,  he  did  not  doubt  my 
statement,  and  after  receiving  his  honga,  which  was 
very  light,  he  permitted  us  to  go  on  our  way,  and 
even  accompanied  us  some  distance  to  show  us  the  road. 


638 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


At  3  p.m.  we  entered  a  thorny  jungle ;  and  by  5  p.m. 
we  had  arrived  at  Muhalata,  a  district  lorded  over  by 
the  chief  Nyamzaga.  A  Mgogo,  of  whom  I  made  a 
friend,  proved  very  stanch.  He  belonged  to  Mulowa, 
a  country  to  the  S.S.E.,  and  south  of  Kulabi ;  and  was 
active  in  promoting  my  interests  by  settling  the  tribute, 
with  the  assistance  of  Bombay,  for  me.  When,  on  the 
next  day,  we  passed  through  Kulabi  on  our  way  to 
Mvumi,  and  the  Wagogo  were  about  to  stop  us  for  the 
honga,  he  took  upon  himself  the  task  of  relieving  us 
from  further  toll,  by  stating  we  were  from  Ugogo  or 
Kanyenyi.  The  chief  simply  nodded  his  head,  and  we 
passed  on.  It  seems  that  the  Wagogo  do  not  exact 
blackmail  of  those  caravans  who  intend  only  to  trade 
in  their  own  country,  or  have  no  intention  of  passing 
beyond  their  own  frontier. 

Leaving  Kulabi,  we  traversed  a  naked,  red,  loamy 
plain,  over  which  the  wind  from  the  heights  of  Usagara, 
now  rising  a  bluish-black  jumble  of  mountains  in  our 
front,  howled  most  fearfully.  With  clear,  keen,  in- 
cisive force,  the  terrible  blasts  seemed  to  penetrate 
through  and  through  our  bodies,  as  though  we  were 
but  filmy  gauze.  Manfully  battling  against  this  mighty 
"  peppo  " — storm — we  passed  through  Mukamwa's,  and 
crossing  a  broad  sandy  bed  of  a  stream  we  entered  the 
territory  of  Mvumi,  the  last  tribute-levying  chief  of 
Ugogo. 

The  4th  of  April,  after  sending  Bombay  and  my 
friendly  Mgogo  with  eight  doti,  or  thirty-two  yards  of 
cloth,  as  a  farewell  tribute  to  the  Sultan,  we  struck  off 
through  the  jungle,  and  in  five  hours  we  were  on  the 
borders  of  the  wilderness  of  "Marenga  Mkali"—  the 
"  hard,"  bitter  or  brackish,  water. 


April,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


639 


From  our  camp  I  despatched  three  men  to  Zanzibar 
with  letters  to  the  American  Consul,  and  telegraphic 
despatches  for  the  1  Herald/  with  a  request  to  the  Consul 
that  he  would  send  the  men  back  with  a  small  case 
or  two  containing  such  luxuries  as  hungry,  worn-out, 
and  mildewed  men  would  appreciate.  The  three  mes- 
sengers were  charged  not  to  halt  for  anything — rain  or 
no  rain,  river  or  inundation — as  if  they  did  not  hurry 
up  we  should  catch  them  before  they  reached  the  coast. 
With  a  fervent  "  Inshallah,  bana,"  they  departed. 

On  the  5th,  with  a  loud,  vigorous,  cheery  "  Hurrah !" 
we  plunged  into  the  depths  of  the  wilderness,  which, 
with  its  eternal  silence  and  solitude,  was  far  preferable 
to  the  jarring,  inharmonious  discord  of  the  villages 
of  the  Wagogo.  For  nine  hours  we  held  on  our 
way,  starting  with  noisy  shouts  the  fierce  rhinoceros, 
the  timid  quagga,  and  the  herds  of  antelopes  which 
crowd  the  jangles  of  this  broad  salina.  On  the  7th, 
amid  a  pelting  rain,  we  entered  Mpwapwa,  where  my 
Scotch  assistant,  Farquhar,  died. 

We  had  performed  the  extraordinary  march  of  338 
English  statute  miles  from  the  14th  of  March  to  the 
7th  of  April,  or  within  twenty- four  days,  inclusive  of 
halts,  which  was  a  little  over  fourteen  miles  a  day. 

Leukole,  the  chief  of  Mpwapwa,  with  whom  I  left 
Farquhar,  gave  the  following  account  of  the  death  of 
the  latter  : — 

"  The  white  man  seemed  to  be  improving  after  you 
left  him,  until  the  fifth  day,  when,  while  attempting 
to  rise  and  walk  out  of  his  tent,  he  fell  back ;  from 
that  minute  he  got  worse  and  worse,  and  in  the  after- 
noon he  died,  like  one  going  to  sleep.  His  legs  and 
abdomen  had  swollen  considerably,  and  something,  J 


640 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


think,  broke  within  him  when  he  fell,  for  he  cried  out 
like  a  man  who  was  very  much  hurt,  and  his  servant 
said,  4  The  master  says  he  is  dying.' 

"  We  had  him  carried  out  under  a  large  tree,  and 
after  covering  him  with  leaves  there  left  him.  His 
servant  took  possession  of  his  things,  his  rifle,  clothes, 
and  blanket,  and  moved  off  to  the  tembe  of  a  Mnya- 
mwezi,  near  Kisokweh,  where  he  lived  for  three  months, 
when  he  also  died.  Before  he  died  he  sold  his  masters 
rifle  to  an  Arab  going  to  Unyanyembe  for  ten  doti 
(forty  yards  of  cloth).    That  is  all  I  know  about  it." 

He  subsequently  showed  me  the  hollow  into  which 
the  dead  body  of  Farquhar  was  thrown,  but  I  could  not 
find  a  vestige  of  his  bones,  though  we  looked  sharply 
about  that  we  might  make  a  decent  grave  for  them. 
Before  we  left  Unyanyembe  fifty  men  were  employed 
two  days  carrying  rocks,  with  which  I  built  up  a  solid 
enduring  pile  around  Shaw's  grave,  eight  feet  long  and 
five  feet  broad,  which  Dr.  Livingstone  said  would  last 
hundreds  of  years,  as  the  grave  of  the  first  white  man 
who  died  in  Unyamwezi.  But  though  we  could  not 
discover  any  remains  of  the  unfortunate  Farquhar,  we 
collected  a  large  quantity  of  stones,  and  managed  to 
raise  a  mound  near  the  banks  of  the  stream  to  com- 
memorate the  spot  where  his  body  was  laid. 

It  was  not  until  we  had  entered  the  valley  of  the 
Mukondokwa  River  that  we  experienced  anything  like 
privation  or  hardship  from  the  Masika.  Here  the 
torrents  thundered  and  roared ;  the  river  was  a  mighty 
brown  flood,  sweeping  downward  with  an  almost  resist- 
less flow.  The  banks  were  brimful,  and  broad  nullahs 
were  full  of  water,  and  the  fields  were  inundated,  and  still 
the  rain  came  surging  down  in  a  shower  that  warned  us 


April,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


641 


of  what  we  might  expect  during  our  transit  of  the 
sea-coast  region.  Still  we  urged  our  steps  onward 
like  men  to  whom  every  moment  was  precious — as  if  a 
deluge  was  overtaking  us.  Three  times  we  crossed 
this  awful  flood  at  the  fords  by  means  of  ropes  tied  to 
trees  from  bank  to  bank,  and  arrived  at  Kadetamare 
on  the  11th,  a  most  miserable,  most  woe-begone  set  of 
human  beings ;  and  camped  on  a  hill  opposite  Mount 
Kibwe,  which  rose  on  the  right  of  the  river — one  of  the 
tallest  peaks  of  the  range. 

On  the  12th  of  April,  after  six  hours  of  the  weariest 
march  I  had  ever  undergone,  we  arrived  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mukondokwa  Pass,  out  of  which  the  river 
debouches  into  the  Plain  of  Makata.  We  knew  that 
it  was  an  unusual  season,  for  the  condition  of  the 
country,  though  bad  enough  the  year  before,  was  as 
nothing  compared  to  this  year.  Close  to  the  edge  of 
the  foaming,  angry  flood  lay  our  route,  dipping  down 
frequently  into  deep  ditches,  wherein  we  found  ourselves 
sometimes  up  to  the  waist  in  water,  and  sometimes  up 
to  the  throat.  Urgent  necessity  impelled  us  onward, 
lest  we  might  have  to  camp  at  one  of  these  villages 
until  the  end  of  the  monsoon  rains ;  so  we  kept  on,  over 
marshy  bottoms,  up  to  the  knees  in  mire,  under  jungly 
tunnels  dripping  with  wet,  then  into  sloughs  arm-pit 
deep.  Every  channel  seemed  filled  to  overflowing,  yet 
down  the  rain  poured,  beating  the  surface  of  the  river 
into  yellowish  foam,  pelting  us  until  we  were  almost 
breathless.  Half  a  day's  battling  against  such  diffi- 
culties brought  us,  after  crossing  the  river,  once  again 
to  the  dismal  village  of  Mvumi. 

We  passed  the  night  fighting  swarms  of  black 
and  voracious  mosquitoes,  and  in  heroic  endeavors  to 

2  T 


642 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


win  repose  in  sleep,  in  which  we  were  partly  successful, 
owing  to  the  utter  weariness  of  our  bodies. 

On  the  13th  we  struck  out  of  the  village  of  Mvumi. 
It  had  rained  the  whole  night,  and  the  morning  brought 
no  cessation.  Mile  after  mile  we  traversed,  over  fields 
covered  by  the  inundation,  until  we  came  to  a  branch 
river-side  once  again,  where  the  river  was  narrow, 
and  too  deep  to  ford  in  the  middle.  We  proceeded 
to  cut  a  tree  down,  and  so  contrived  that  it  should 
fall  right  across  the  stream.  Over  this  fallen  tree  the 
men,  bestriding  it,  cautiously  moved  before  them  their 
bales  and  boxes;  but  one  young  fellow,  Eojab — 
through  over-zeal,  or  in  sheer  madness — took  up  the 
Doctor's  box  which  contained  his  letters  and  Journal 
of  his  discoveries  on  his  head,  and  started  into  the 
river.  I  had  been  the  first  to  arrive  on  the  opposite 
bank,  in  order  to  superintend  the  crossing,  when  I 
caught  sight  of  this  man  walking  in  the  river  with 
the  most  precious  box  of  all  on  his  head.  Suddenly 
he  fell  into  a  deep  hole,  and  the  man  and  box 
went  almost  out  of  sight,  while  I  was  in  an  agony 
at  the  fate  which  threatened  the  despatches.  Fortu- 
nately, he  recovered  himself  and  stood  up,  while  I 
shouted  to  him,  with  a  loaded  revolver  pointed  at  his 
head,  "  Look  out !     Drop  that  box,  and  I'll  shoot 

you." 

All  the  men  halted  in  their  work  while  they  gazed 
at  their  comrade  who  was  thus  imperilled  by  bullet 
and  flood.  The  man  himself  seemed  to  regard  the 
pistol  with  the  greatest  awe,  and  after  a  few  desperate 
efforts  succeeded  in  getting  the  box  safely  ashore.  As 
the  articles  within  were  not  damaged,  Rojab  escaped 
punishment,  with  a  caution  not  to  touch  the  box  again 


April,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


643 


on  any  account,  and  it  was  transferred  to  the  keeping 
of  the  sure-footed  and  perfect  pagazi,  Maganga. 

From  this  stream,  in  about  an  hour,  we  came  to  the 
main  river,  but  one  look  at  its  wild  waters  was  enough. 
We  worked  hard  to  construct  a  raft,  but  after  cutting 
down  four  trees  and  lashing  the  green  logs  together,  and 
pushing  them  into  the  whirling  current,  we  saw  them 
sink  like  lead.  We  then  tied  together  all  the  strong 
rope  in  our  possession,  and  made  a  line  180  feet  long, 
with  one  end  of  which  tied  round  his  body,  Chowpereh 
was  sent  across  to  lash  it  to  a  tree.  He  was  carried  far 
down  the  stream,  but  being  an  excellent  swimmer  he 
succeeded  in  his  attempt.  The  bales  were  lashed  around 
the  middle,  and,  heaved  into  the  stream,  were  dragged 
through  the  river  to  the  opposite  bank,  as  well  as  the 
tent,  and  such  things  as  could  not  be  injured  much  by 
the  water.  Several  of  the  men,  as  well  as  myself,  were 
also  dragged  through  the  water ;  each  of  the  boys  being 
attended  by  the  best  swimmers  ;  but  when  we  came  to 
the  letter-boxes  and  valuables,  wTe  could  suggest  no 
means  to  take  them  over.  Two  camps  were  accordingly 
made,  one  on  each  side  of  the  stream ;  the  one  on  the 
bank  which  I  had  just  left  occupying  an  ant-hill  of 
considerable  height ;  while  my  party  had  to  content 
itself  with  a  flat,  mirv  marsh.  An  embankment  of 
soil,  nearly  a  foot  high,  was  thrown  up  in  a  circle 
thirty  feet  in  diameter,  in  the  centre  of  which  my  tent 
was  pitched,  and  around  it  booths  were  erected. 

It  was  an  extraordinary  and  novel  position  that  we 
found  ourselves  in.  Within  twenty  feet  of  our  camp 
was  a  rising  river,  with  flat,  low  banks ;  above  us  was  a 
gloomy,  weeping  sky  ;  surrounding  us  on  three  sides 
was  an  immense  forest,  on  whose  branches  we  heard 


S44 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


the  constant,  pattering  rain ;  beneath  our  feet  was  a 
great  depth  of  mud,  black  and  loathsome ;  add  to  these 
the  thought  that  the  river  might  overflow,  and  sweep 
us  to  utter  destruction. 

In  the  morning  the  river  was  still  rising,  and  an 
inevitable  doom  seemed  to  hang  over  us.  There  was 
yet  time  to  act — to  bring  over  the  people,  with  the  most 
valuable  effects  of  the  Expedition — as  I  considered  Dr. 
Livingstone's  Journal  and  letters,  and  my  own  papers, 
of  far  greater  value  than  anything  else.  While  looking 
at  the  awful  river  an  idea  struck  me  that  I  might  pos- 
sibly carry  the  boxes  across,  one  at  a  time,  by  cutting 
two  slender  poles,  and  tying  cross  sticks  to  them,  making 
a  kind  of  hand-barrow,  on  which  a  box  might  rest 
when  lashed  to  it.  Two  men  swimming  across,  at  the 
same  time  holding  on  to  the  rope,  with  the  ends  of  the 
poles  resting  on  the  men's  shoulders,  I  thought,  would 
be  enabled  to  convey  over  a  70  lb.  box  with  ease.  In  a 
short  time  one  of  these  was  made,  and  six  couples  of 
the  strongest  swimmers  were  prepared,  and  stimulated 
with  a  rousing  glass  of  stiff  grog  each  man,  with  a 
promise  of  cloth  to  each  also  if  they  succeeded  in 
getting  everything  ashore  undamaged  by  the  water. 
When  I  saw  with  what  ease  they  dragged  themselves 
across,  the  barrow  on  their  shoulders,  I  wondered  that 
I  had  not  thought  of  the  plan  before.  Within  an  hour 
after  the  first  couple  had  gone  over,  the  entire  Expedition 
was  safe  on  the  eastern  bank ;  and  at  once  breaking- 
camp,  we  marched  north  through  the  swampy  forest, 
which  in  some  places  was  covered  with  four  feet  of  water. 
Seven  hours'  constant  splashing  brought  us  to  Kehen- 
neko,  after  experiencing  several  queer  accidents.  We 
were  now  on  the  verge  only  of  the  inundated  plain  of 


April,  1872.]  HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


645 


the  Makata,  which,  even  with  the  last  year's  rain,  was 
too  horrible  to  think  of  undertaking  again  in  cold  blood. 

We  were  encamped  ten  days  on  a  hill  near  Rehenneko, 
or  until  the  25th,  when,  the  rain  having  entirely  ceased, 
we  resolved  to  attempt  the  crossing  of  the  Makata. 
The  bales  of  cloth  had  all  been  distributed  as  presents 
to  the  men  for  their  work,  except  a  small  quantity  which 
I  retained  for  the  food  of  my  own  mess. 

But  we  should  have  waited  a  month  longer,  for  the 
inundation  had  not  abated  four  inches.  However,  after 
we  once  struggled  up  to  our  necks  in  water,  it  was 
useless  to  turn  back.  For  two  marches  of  eight  hours 
each  we  plunged  through  slush,  mire,  deep  sloughs, 
water  up  to  our  necks,  and  muddy  cataclysms,  swam 
across  nullahs,  waded  across  gullies,  and  near  sunset 
of  the  second  day  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the 
Makata  River.  My  people  are  not  likely  to  forget  that 
night ;  not  one  of  them  was  able  to  sleep  until  it  was 
long  past  midnight,  because  of  the  clouds  of  mosquitoes, 
which  threatened  to  eat  us  all  up ;  and  when  the  horn 
sounded  for  the  march  of  another  day  there  was  not  one 
dissentient  amongst  them. 

It  was  5  a.m.  when  we  began  the  crossing  of  the 
Makata  River,  but  beyond  it  for  six  miles  stretched  one 
long  lake,  the  waters  of  which  flowed  gently  towards 
the  Wami.  This  was  the  confluence  of  the  streams : 
four  rivers  were  here  gathered  into  one.  The  natives 
of  Kigongo  warned  us  not  to  attempt  it,  as  the  water 
was  over  our  heads  ;  but  I  had  only  to  give  a  hint  to 
the  men,  and  we  set  on  our  way.  Even  the  water— 
we  were  getting  quite  amphibious — was  better  than  the 
horrible  filth  and  piles  of  decaying  vegetation  which 
were  swept  against  the  boma  of  the  village. 


646 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


We  were  soon  up  to  our  armpits,  then  the  water 
shallowed  to  the  knee,  then  we  stepped  up  to  the  neck, 
and  waded  on  tiptoe,  supporting  the  children  above 
the  water ;  and  the  same  experiences  occurred  as 
those  which  we  suffered  the  day  before,  until  we  were 
halted  on  the  edge  of  the  Little  Makata,  which  raced 
along  at  the  rate  of  eight  knots  an  hour ;  but  it  was 
only  fifty  yards  wide,  and  beyond  it  rose  a  high  bank, 
and  dry  park  lands  which  extended  as  far  as  Simbo.  We 
had  no  other  option  than  to  swim  it ;  but  it  was  a  slow 
operation,  the  current  was  so  swift  and  strong.  Activity 
and  zeal,  high  rewards,  presents  of  money,  backed  by 
the  lively  feeling  that  we  were  nearing  home,  worked 
wonders,  and  in  a  couple  of  hours  we  were  beyond  the 
Makata. 

Cheery  and  hopeful,  we  sped  along  the  dry,  smooth 
path  that  now  lay  before  us,  with  the  ardor  and 
vivacity  of  heroes,  and  the  ease  and  power  of  veterans. 
We  rolled  three  ordinary  marches  into  one  that  day, 
and  long  before  night  arrived  at  Simbo. 

On  the  29th  we  crossed  the  Ungerengeri,  and  as  we 
came  to  Simbamwenni — the  "Lion  City  "  of  Useguhha 
— lo !  what  a  change  !  The  flooded  river  had  swept 
the  entire  front  wall  of  the  strongly- walled  city  away, 
and  about  fifty  houses  had  been  destroyed  by  the  torrent. 
Villages  of  Waruguru,  on  the  slopes  of  the  Uruguru 
Mountains — Mkambaku  range — had  also  suffered  dis- 
astrously. If  one-fourth  of  the  reports  we  heard 
were  true,  at  least  a  hundred  people  must  have  pe- 
rished. 

The  Sultana  had  fled,  and  the  stronghold  of  Kisa- 
bengo  was  no  more !  A  deep  canal  that  he  had  caused 
to  be  excavated  when  alive,  to  bring  a  branch  of  the 


Apbil,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


647 


Ungerengeri  near  his  city — which  was  his  glory  and 
boast — proved  the  ruiD  of  Simbamwenni.  After  the 
destruction  of  the  place  the  river  had  formed  a  new 
bed,  about  300  yards  from  the  city.  But  what  asto- 
nished us  most  were  the  masses  of  debris  which  seemed 
to  be  piled  everywhere,  and  the  great  numbers  of  trees 
that  were  prostrate  ;  and  they  all  seemed  to  lie  in  the 
same  direction,  as  if  a  strong  wind  had  come  from  the 
south-west.  The  aspect  of  the  Ungerengeri  valley  was 
completely  changed — from  a  Paradise  it  was  converted 
into  a  howling  waste. 

We  continued  our  march  until  we  reached  Ulagalla, 
and  it  was  evident,  as  we  advanced,  that  an  unusual 
storm  had  passed  over  the  land,  for  the  trees  in  some 
places  seemed  to  lie  in  swathes. 

A  most  fatiguing  and  long  march  brought  us  to 
Mussoudi,  on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Ungerengeri ; 
but  long  before  we  reached  it  we  realized  that  a  terrific 
destruction  of  human  life  and  property  had  occurred. 
The  extent  and  nature  of  the  calamity  may  be  imagined, 
when  I  state  that  nearly  one  hundred  villages, 
according  to  Mussoudi's  report,  were  swept  away. 

Mussoudi,  the  Diwan,  says  that  the  inhabitants  had 
gone  to  rest  as  usual — as  they  had  done  ever  since  he 
had  settled  in  the  valley,  twenty-five  years  ago — when, 
in  the  middle  of  the  night,  they  heard  a  roar  like  many 
thunders,  which  woke  them  up  to  the  fact  that  death  was 
at  work  in  the  shape  of  an  enormous  volume  of  water, 
that,  like  a  wall,  came  down,  tearing  the  tallest  trees 
with  it,  carrying  away  scores  of  villages  at  one  fell, 
sure  swoop  into  utter  destruction.  The  scene  six  days 
after  the  event — when  the  river  has  subsided  into  its 
normal  breadth  and  depth  during  the  monsoons — is 
simply  awful.    Wherever  we  look,  we  find  something 


648 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


very  suggestive  of  the  devastation  that  has  visited  the 
country ;  fields  of  corn  are  covered  with  many  feet  of 
sand  and  debris  ;  the  sandy  bed  the  river  has  deserted 
is  about  a  mile  wide ;  and  there  are  but  three  villages 
standing  of  all  that  I  noticed  when  en  route  to  Unya- 
nyembe.  When  I  asked  Mussoudi  where  the  people  had 
gone  to,  he  replied,  "  God  has  taken  most  of  them,  but 
some  have  gone  to  Udoe."  The  surest  blow  ever  struck 
at  the  tribe  of  the  Wakami  was  indeed  given  by  the 
hand  of  God ;  and,  to  use  the  words  of  the  Diwan, 
"  God's  power  is  wonderful,  and  who  can  resist  him !" 
I  again  resort  to  my  Diary,  and  extract  the  following : 
April  30th. — Passing  Msuwa,  we  travelled  hurriedly 
through  the  jungle  which  saw  such  hard  work  with 
us  when  going  'o  Unyanyembe.  What  dreadful  odors 
and  indescribable  loathing  this  jungle  produces  !  It  is 
so  dense  that  a  tiger  could  not  crawl  through  it ;  it  is 
so  impenetrable  that  an  elephant  could  not  force 
his  way  !  Were  a  bottleful  of  concentrated  miasma, 
such  as  we  inhale  herein,  collected,  what  a  deadly 
poison,  instantaneous  in  its  action,  undiscoverable  in  its 
properties,  would  it  be  !  I  think  it  would  act  quicker 
than  chloroform,  be  as  fatal  as  prussic  acid. 

Horrors  upon  horrors  are  in  it.  Boas  above  our 
heads,  snakes  and  scorpions  under  our  feet.  Land- 
crabs,  terrapins,  and  iguanas  move  about  in  our  vicinity. 
Malaria  is  in  the  air  we  breathe ;  the  road  is  infested 
with  "  hot-water 99  ants,  which  bite  our  legs  until  we 
dance  and  squirm  about  like  madmen.  Yet,  somehow, 
we  are  fortunate  enough  to  escape  annihilation,  and 
many  another  traveller  might  also.  Yet  here,  in  verity, 
are  the  ten  plagues  of  Egypt,  through  which  a  traveller 
in  these  regions  must  run  the  gauntlet : 


May,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


*4G 


1.  Plague  of  boas. 

2.  Red  ants,  or  "  hot-water." 

3.  Scorpions. 

4.  Thorns  and  spear  cacti. 

5.  Numerous  impediments. 

6.  Black  mud  knee-deep. 

7.  Suffocation  from  the  density  of  the  jungle. 

8.  Stench. 

9.  Thorns  in  the  road. 
10.  Miasma. 

May  1st.  Kingaru  Hera. — We  heard  news  of  a 
great  storm  having  raged  at  Zanzibar,  which  has 
destroyed  every  house  and  every  ship, — so  the  story 
runs ; — and  the  same  destruction  has  visited  Bagamoyo 
and  Whinde,  they  say.  But  I  am  by  this  time  pretty 
well  acquainted  with  the  exaggerative  tendency  of  the 
African.  It  is  possible  that  serious  loss  has  been 
sustained,  from  the  evidences  of  the  effects  of  the  storm 
in  the  interior.  I  hear,  also,  that  there  are  white  men 
at  Bagamoyo,  who  are  about  starting  into  the  country 
to  look  after  me  (?).  Who  would  look  after  me,  I 
cannot  imagine.  I  think  they  must  have  some  confused 
idea  of  my  Expedition  ;  though,  how  they  came  to  know 
that  I  was  looking  for  any  man  1  cannot  conceive,  be- 
cause I  never  told  a  soul  until  I  reached  Unyanyembe. 

May  2nd.  Rosako. — I  had  barely  arrived  at  the 
village  before  the  three  men  I  despatched  from  Mvumi, 
Ugogo,  entered,  bringing  with  them  from  the  generous 
American  Consul  a  few  bottles  of  champagne,  a  few 
pots  of  jam,  and  two  boxes  of  Boston  crackers.  These 
were  most  welcome  after  my  terrible  experiences  in  the 
Makata  Valley.  Inside  one  of  these  boxes,  carefully 
put  up  by  the  Consul,  were  four  numbers  of  the 
4  Herald one  of  which  contained  my  correspondence 
from  Unyanyembe,  wherein  were  some  curious  typo- 


050 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


graphical  errors,  especially  in  figures  and  African 
names.  I  suppose  rny  writing  was  wretched,  owing  to 
my  weakness.  In  another  are  several  extracts  from 
various  newspapers,  in  which  I  learn  that  many  edi- 
tors regard  the  Expedition  into  Africa  as  a  myth. 
Alas !  it  has  been  a  terrible,  earnest  fact  with  me ; 
nothing  but  hard,  conscientious  work,  privation,  sick- 
ness, and  almost  death.  Eighteen  men  have  paid  the 
forfeit  of  their  lives  in  the  undertaking.  It  certainly 
is  not  a  myth — the  death  of  my  two  white  assistants ; 
they,  poor  fellows,  found  their  fate  in  the  inhospitable 
regions  of  the  interior. 

One  of  these  critical  articles,  which  emanated  from 
the  pen  of  a  Tennessee  editor,  after  humorous  banter  of 
the  Expedition,  ends  as  follows  : 

"  The  fate  of  that  Expedition  is  fixed,  and  unless  Livingstone 
makes  his  reappearance  in  civilized  society  we  need  never  expect  to 
hear  from  that  'Herald'  commissioner  again.  He'll  get  into  some 
other  big  Makata  swamp,  and  go  the  way  of  his  hapless  dog  *  Omar/ 

Sic  semper." 

So,  while  I  was  travelling  in  Africa,  upon  an  errand 
that  I  supposed,  in  my  innocence,  would  have  com- 
nended  itself  to  most  Christians,  there  were  people 
praying  for  my  failure.  It  is  wonderful  what  little 
difference  exists  between  civilization  and  barbarism — 
what  a  thin  line  divides  some  white  men  from  negro 
savages.  The  latter  I  have  found  kind  and  agreeable 
people  when  well  treated — the  sentiment  embodied  in 
the  above  extract  proves  to  me  what  I  may  expect 
when  I  reach  home.  At  all  events,  I  have  the  laugh 
on  my  side  now.  If  I  only  live  to  reach  home  I  may 
have  occasion  to  laugh  more. 

One  of  my  letters  received  from  Zanzibar  by  my 
messengers  states  that  there  is  an  expedition  at  Baga- 


May,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


651 


inoyo  called  the  "  Livingstone  Search  and  Relief  Expe- 
dition/' What  will  the  leaders  of  it  do  now  ?  Living- 
stone is  found  and  relieved  already.  Livingstone  says 
he  requires  nothing  more.  It  is  a  misfortune  that  they 
did  not  start  earlier ;  then  they  might,  with  propriety, 
proceed,  and  be  welcomed. 

May  Ath. — Arrived  at  Kingwere's  Ferry,  but  we 
were  unable  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  canoe 
paddler.  Between  our  camp  and  Bagamoyo  we  have 
an  inundated  plain  that  is  at  least  four  miles  broad. 
The  ferrying  of  our  Expedition  across  this  broad 
watery  waste  will  occupy  considerable  time. 

May  5th. — Kingwere,  the  canoe  proprietor,  came 
about  1J  a.m.  from  his  village  at  Gongoni,  beyond  the 
watery  plain.  By  his  movements  I  am  fain  to  believe 
him  to  be  a  descendant  of  some  dusky  King  Log,  for  I 
have  never  seen  in  all  this  land  the  attributes  and 
peculiarities  of  that  royal  personage  so  faithfully  illus- 
trated as  in  Kingwere.  He  brought  two  canoes  with 
him,  short,  cranky  things,  in  which  only  twelve  of  us 
could  embark  at  a  time.  It  was  3  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon before  we  arrived  at  Gongoni  village. 

May  6^A. — After  impressing  Kingwere  with  the 
urgent  necessity  of  quick  action  on  his  part,  with  a 
promise  of  an  extra  five-dollar  gold  piece,  I  had  the 
satisfaction  to  behold  the  last  man  reach  my  camp  at 
3.30  p.m. 

An  hour  later,  and  we  are  en  route,  at  a  pace  that  I 
never  saw  equalled  at  any  time  by  my  caravan.  Every 
man's  feelings  are  intensified,  for  there  is  an  animated, 
nay,  headlong,  impetuosity  about  their  movements  that 
indicates  but  too  well  what  is  going  on  in  their  minds. 
Surely,  my  own  are  a  faithful  index  to  their  feelings ; 
and  I  do  not  feel  a  whit  too  proud  to  acknowledge  the 


652 


BOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


great  joy  that  possesses  me.  I  feel  proud  to  think  that 
I  have  been  successful ;  but,  honestly,  I  do  not  feel  so 
elated  at  that  as  at  the  hope  that  to-morrow  I  shall  sit 
before  a  table  bounteous  with  the  good  things  of  this 
life.  How  I  will  glory  in  the  hams,  and  potatoes,  and 
good  bread !  What  a  deplorable  state  of  mind,  is  it 
not  ?  Ah,  my  friend,  wait  till  you  are  reduced  to  a 
skeleton  by  gaunt  famine  and  coarse,  loathsome  food — 
until  you  have  waded  a  Makata  swamp,  and  marched 
525  miles  in  thirty-five  days  through  such  weather  as 
we  have  had — then  you  will  think  such  pabula,  food  fit 
for  gods ! 

Happy  are  we  that, — after  completing  our  mission, 
after  the  hurry  and  worry  of  the  march,  after  the 
anxiety  and  vexation  suffered  from  fractious  tribes,  after 
tramping  for  the  last  fifteen  days  through  mire  and 
Stygian  marsh, — we  near  Beulah's  peace  and  rest !  Can 
we  do  otherwise  than  express  our  happiness  by  firing 
away  gunpowder  until  our  horns  are  emptied — then 
shout  our  "  hurrahs  ' '  until  we  are  hoarse — then,  with 
hearty,  soul-inspiring  "  Yambos,,)  greet  every  mother's 
son  fresh  from  the  sea  ?  Not  so,  think  the  Wangwana 
soldiers ;  and  I  so  sympathize  with  them  that  I  permit 
them  to  act  their  maddest  without  censure. 

At  sunset  we  enter  the  town  of  Bagamoyo.  "  More 
pilgrims  come  to  town,"  were  the  words  heard  in 
Beulah.  "The  white  man  has  come  to  town,"  were 
the  words  we  heard  in  Bagamoyo.  And  we  shall  cross 
the  water  to-morrow  to  Zanzibar,  and  shall  enter  the 
golden  gate ;  we  shall  see  nothing,  smell  nothing, 
taste  nothing  that  is  offensive  to  the  stomach  any 
more ! 

The  kirangozi  blows  his  horn,  and  gives  forth  blasts 
potential  as  Astolpho's,  as  the  natives  and  Arabs  throng 


May,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND 


653 


around  us.  And  that  bright  flag,  whose  stars  have 
waved  over  the  waters  of  the  great  lake  in  Central 
Africa,  which  promised  relief  to  the  harassed  Living- 
stone when  in  distress  at  Ujiji,  returns  to  the  sea  once 
again — torn,  it  is  true,  but  not  dishonoured — tattered, 
but  not  disgraced. 

As  we  reached  the  middle  of  the  town,  I  saw  on  the 
steps  of  a  large  white  house  a  white  man,  in  flannels 
and  helmet  similar  to  that  I  wore  ;  he  was  young  and 
reddish-whiskered ;  he  had  a  bright,  lively,  humorous 
face,  while  his  head  was  slightly  inclined  on  one  side, 
which  gave  him  somewhat  of  a  pensive  appearance.  I 
thought  myself  rather  akin  to  white  men  in  general, 
and  I  walked  up  to  him.  He  advanced  towards  me, 
and  we  shook  hands — did  everything  but  embrace. 

"  Won't  you  walk  in  ?"  said  he. 

"  Thanks." 

"  What  will  you  have  to  drink — beer,  stout,  brandy  ? 
Eh,  by  George !  I  congratulate  you  on  your  splendid 
success,"  said  he,  impetuously. 

I  knew  him  immediately.  He  was  an  Englishman. 
It  is  their  habit  to  do  things  after  that  fashion ;  but  it 
was  different  in  Central  Africa.  (Splendid  success ! 
Is  that  the  view  they  take  of  it?  It  is  better  still. 
But  how  does  he  know  anything  about  it  ?  Oh,  I  forgot. 
My  messengers  have  been  talking,  I  see.) 

"  Thanks.  I  will  take  anything  you  like  to  give 
me. 

"  Let's  have  some  beer,  boy,  quick,  or  I  will  knock 
seven  d  s  out  of  you,"  said  he,  in  a  lively  tone. 

It  would  be  useless  to  relate  every  detail  of  the 
conversation  that  took  place  between  us.  He  soon 
informed  me,  in  that  light,  vivacious  way  peculiarly 
his  own,  who  he  was,  what  he  came  for,  what  were  his 


654 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


hopes,  his  ideas,  and  his  feelings  upon  almost  every 
subject.  He  was  Lieut.  William  Henn,  R.N.,  chief 
of  the  Livingstone  Search  and  Relief  Expedition,  about 
to  be  despatched  by  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  to 
find  and  relieve  Livingstone.  The  former  chief,  as  the 
expedition  was  at  first  organized,  was  Lieut.  Llewellyn 
S.  Dawson,  who,  as  soon  as  he  heard  from  my  men 
that  I  had  found  Livingstone,  had  crossed  over  to 
Zanzibar,  and,  after  consultation  with  Dr.  John  Kirk, 
had  resigned.  He  had  now  nothing  further  to  do  with 
it,  the  command  having  formally  devolved  on  Lieut. 
Henn.  A  Mr.  Charles  New,  also,  missionary  from 
Mombasah,  had  joined  the  expedition,  but  he  had 
resigned  too.  So  now  there  were  left  but  Lieut.  Henn 
and  Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone,  second  son  of  the  Doctor. 

"  Is  Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone  here  ?"  I  asked,  with 
considerable  surprise. 

"  Yes  ;  he  will  be  here  directly." 

"  What  are  you  going  to  do  now  ?"  I  asked. 

44  I  don't  think  it  worth  my  while  to  go  now.  You 
have  taken  the  wind  out  of  our  sails  completely.  If 
you  have  relieved  him,  I  don't  see  the  use  of  my  going. 
Do  you  T 

"  Well,  it  depends.  You  know  your  own  orders  best. 

If  you  have  come  only  to  find  and  relieve  him,  I  can 

tell  you  truly  he  is  found  and  relieved,  and  that  he 

wants  nothing  more  than  a  few  canned  meats,  and  some 

other  little  things  which  I  dare  say  you  have  not  got. 

I  have  his  list  in  his  own  handwriting  with  me.  Bui 

his  son  must  go  anyhow,  and  I  can  get  men  easily 

enough  for  him." 

"  Well,  if  he  is  relieved,  it  is  of  no  use  my  going. 
****** 

I  thought  I  should  have  some  good  sport.    I  am  ^very 


May,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


663 


fond  of  shooting.  I  should  like  to  shoot  an  African 
elephant." 

"  Oh,  Livingstone  doesn't  want  you.  He  says  he  has 
plenty  of  stores — enough  to  enable  him  to  finish  up 
comfortably ;  and  I  am  sure  he  ought  to  know  best. 
If  he  lacked  anything,  he  would  have  mentioned  it  in 
the  list.  Any  more  than  he  has  got  would  be  an 
incumbrance — he  could  not  get  the  men  to  carry  them. 
What  have  you  got  here  ?" 

"Oh,"  said  he,  with  a  light  laugh,  "we  have  the 
store-room  full  of  cloth  and  beads.  We  have  over  one 
hundred  and  ninety  loads  of  stores." 

"  One  hundred  and  ninety  loads  !" 

"  Yes." 

"  Why,  where  could  you  go  with  all  these  loads  ? 
There  are  not  enough  men  on  the  whole  coast  to  carry 
such  a  quantity.  One  hundred  and  ninety  loads  !  Why, 
you  would  require  two  hundred  and  fifty  men  to  carry 
them,  because  you  would  be  obliged  to  take  at  least 
fifty  supernumeraries  !" 

At  this  time  in  walked  a  tall,  slight,  young,  gentle- 
manly man,  with  light  complexion,  light  hair,  dark, 
lustrous  eyes,  who  was  introduced  to  me  as  Mr.  Oswald 
Livingstone.  The  introduction  was  hardly  necessary, 
for  in  his  features  there  was  much  of  what  were  the 
specialities  of  his  father.  There  was  an  air  of  quiet 
resolution  about  him,  and  in  the  greeting  which  he 
gave  me  he  exhibited  rather  a  reticent  character ;  but 
I  attributed  that  to  a  receptive  nature,  which  augured 
well  for  the  future.  A  greater  contrast  than  these 
two  young  men  could  hardly  have  been  presented. 
One  was  volatile,  redundant,  inconsistent,  effervescent, 
boiling  over  with  his  uncontrollable  vitality,  irrepres- 
sibly  mercurial,  hilarious,  and  jovial ;  the  other  was 


656 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


composed,  even  to  a  little  sternness,  unruffled  in  his 
demeanor,  demurely  staid,  with  a  tranquil,  resolute, 
and  fixed  face,  but  with  flashing  eyes,  that  vivified  an 
otherwise  immobile  expression.  Of  the  two,  I  should 
have  said  the  latter  would  have  been  the  fittest  leader 
of  an  Expedition  ;  but  Henn,  if  he  possessed  enduring 
qualities — not  such  as  belong  to  the  physical  constitu- 
tion, but  the  moral  courage  to  bear  with  fortitude, 
and  persevere  under  constantly  recurring  calamities, 
fevers,  privations,  and  difficulties — was  an  eligible  com- 
panion, with  his  elan,  high  spirits,  and  bubbling  hilarity. 
Livingstone  seemed  to  be  able  by  nature  to  support 
the  burden  of  responsibility ;  while  Henn,  from  his 
natural  vivacity  and  impulsive  disposition,  seemed  yet 
too  young  for  such  a  charge,  though  he  had  acquired 
the  quality  of  manhood. 

"  I  was  telling  Lieut.  Henn  that,  whether  he  goes  or 
not,  you  must  go  to  your  father,  Mr.  Livingstone.'5 

"  Oh,  I  mean  to  go." 

"  Yes,  that's  right.  I  will  furnish  you  with  men  and 
what  stores  your  father  needs.  My  men  will  take  you 
to  Unyanyembe  without  any  difficulty.  They  know  the 
road  well,  and  that  is  a  great  advantage.  They  know 
how  to  deal  with  the  negro  chiefs,  and  you  will  have  no 
need  to  trouble  your  head  about  them,  but  march.  The 
great  thing  that  is  required  is  speed.  Your  father  will 
be  waiting  for  the  things." 

u  I  will  march  them  fast  enough,  if  that  is  all." 

"  Oh,  they  will  be  going  up  light,  and  they  can  easily 
make  long  marches." 

It  was  settled,  then.  Henn  made  up  his  mind  that, 
as  the  Doctor  had  been  relieved,  he  was  not  wanted ; 
but,  before  formally  resigning,  he  intended  to  consult 
with  Dr.  Kirk,  and  for  that  purpose  he  would  cross 


May,  1872.] 


HOMEWARD  BOUND. 


657 


over  to  Zanzibar  the  next  day  with  the  6  Herald  * 
Expedition. 

At  2  a.m.  I  retired  to  sleep  on  a  comfortable  bed. 
There  was  a  great  smell  of  newness  about  certain 
articles  in  the  bedroom,  such  as  havresacks,  knapsacks, 
portmanteaus,  leather  gun-cases,  &c.  Evidently  the 
new  Expedition  had  some  crudities  about  it;  but  a 
journey  into  the  interior  would  soon  have  lessened  the 
stock  of  superfluities,  which  all  new  men  at  first  load 
themselves  with. 

Ah  !  what  a  sigh  of  relief  was  that  I  gave,  as  I  threw 
myself  on  my  bed,  at  the  thought  that,  "  Thank  God ! 
my  marching  was  ended." 

2  u 


658 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE, 


CHAPTER  XYII. 

VALEDICTORY. 

At  5  p.m.,  on  the  7th  of  May,  1872,  the  dhow  which 
conveyed  my  Expedition  back  to  Zanzibar  arrived  in 
the  harbor,  and  the  men,  delighted  to  find  them- 
selves once  more  so  near  their  homes,  fired  volley  after 
volley,  the  American  flag  was  hoisted  up,  and  we  soon 
saw  the  house-roofs  and  wharves  lined  with  spectators, 
many  of  whom  were  Europeans,  with  glasses  levelled 
at  us. 

We  drew  ashore  slowly ;  but  a  boat  putting  off  to 
take  us  to  land,  we  stepped  into  it,  and  I  was  soon  in 
presence  of  my  friend  the  Consul,  who  heartily  wel- 
comed me  back  to  Zanzibar ;  and  soon  after  was  intro- 
duced to  the  Rev.  Charles  New,  who  was  but  a  day  or 
two  previous  to  my  arrival  an  important  member  of 
the  English  Search  Expedition — a  small,  slight  man 
in  appearance,  who,  though  he  looked  weakly,  had  a 


May,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


659 


fund  of  energy  or  nervousness  in  him  which  was 
almost  too  great  for  such  a  body.  He  also  heartily 
congratulated  me. 

After  a  bounteous  dinner,  to  which  I  did  justice  in  a 
manner  that  astonished  my  new  friends,  Lieut.  Dawson 
called  to  see  me — a  stalwart  young  man,  splendid 
figure,  handsome  appearance,  with  quick  and  intelligent 
features,  and  said  : 

"  Mr.  Stanley,  let  me  congratulate  you,  sir." 

Lieut.  Dawson  then  went  on  to  state  how  he  envied 
me  my  success  ;  now  i  had  taKen  the  wind  out  of  his 
sails"  (a  nautical  phrase  similar  to  that  used  by  Lieut. 
Henn)  ;  how,  when  he  heard  from  my  men  that  Dr. 
Livingstone  had  been  found,  he  at  once  crossed  over 
from  Bagamoyo  to  Zanzibar,  and,  after  a  short  talk 
with  Dr.  Kirk,  at  once  resigned. 

"  But  do  you  not  think,  Mr.  Dawson,  you  have  been 
rather  too  hasty  in  tendering  your  resignation,  from  the 
mere  verbal  report  of  my  men  ?" 

"  Perhaps,"  said  he ;  "  but  I  heard  that  Mr.  Webb 
had  received  a  letter  from  you,  and  that  you  and 
Livingstone  had  discovered  that  the  Rusizi  ran  into  the 
lake — that  you  had  the  Doctor's  letters  and  despatches 
with  you." 

"  Yes ;  but  you  acquired  all  this  information  from 
my  men  ;  you  have  seen  nothing  yourself.  You  have 
therefore  resigned  before  you  had  personal  evidence  of 
the  fact." 

"  Well,  Dr.  Livingstone  is  relieved  and  found,  as  Mr. 
Henn  tells  me,  is  he  not  ?" 

"  Yes,  that  is  true  enough.  He  is  well  supplied  ;  he 
only  requires  a  few  little  luxuries,  which  I  am  going  to 
send  him  by  an  expedition  of  fifty  freemen.  Dr.  Living- 
stone is  found  and  relieved,  most  certainly  ;  and  I  have 


660 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


all  the  letters  and  despatches  which  he  could  possibly 
send  to  his  friends." 

"  But  don't  you  think  I  did  perfectly  right  ?" 

"  Hardly — though,  perhaps,  it  would  come  to  the  same 
thing  in  the  end.  Any  more  cloth  and  beads  than  he 
has  already  would  be  an  incumbrance.  Still,  you  have 
your  orders  from  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  I 
have  not  seen  those  yet,  and  I  am  not  prepared  to 
judge  what  your  best  course  would  have  been.  But  I 
think  you  did  wrong  in  resigning  before  you  saw  me ;  for 
then  you  would  have  had,  probably,  a  legitimate  excuse 
for  resigning.  I  should  have  held  on  to  the  expedition 
until  I  had  consulted  with  those  who  sent  me  ;  though, 
in  such  an  event  as  this,  the  order  would  be,  perhaps,  to 
*  Come  home.' " 

"  As  it  has  turned  out,  though,  don't  you  think  I  did 
right  ?" 

"  Most  certainly  it  would  be  useless  for  you  to  go  to 
search  for  and  relieve  Livingstone  now,  because  he  has 
already  been  sought,  found,  and  relieved ;  but  perhaps 
you  had  other  orders." 

"  Only,  if  I  went  into  the  country,  I  was  then  to 
direct  my  attention  to  exploration  ;  but,  the  primary 
object  having  been  forestalled  by  you,  I  am  compelled 
to  return  home.  The  Admiralty  granted  me  leave  of 
absence  only  for  the  search,  and  never  said  anything 
about  exploration." 

"  In  your  orders,  which  you  say  you  have,  is  there 
nothing  said  as  to  what  you  were  to  do  in  the  event  of 
your  meeting  me  ?" 

"  Not  a  word,  though  they  knew  it  well ;  for  one  of 
the  members  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  sug- 
gested to  me  privately  that  I  might  possibly  be  able  to 
relieve  you.    I  knew  nothing  about  your  expedition 


May,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


661 


except  from  your  letter  to  the  '  Herald but  we  had 
been  informed  that  you  were  sick  from  fever,  and  pro- 
bably dead.  When  I  arrived  here  I  heard  much  about 
you,  and  we  heard  a  report  that  you  had  found  Living- 
stone the  very  day  we  came  here ;  but  we  did  not  pay 
much  attention  to  it.  It  was  not  until  I  talked  with 
your  own  men  that  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  I  was 
not  wanted,  and  therefore  resigned." 

u  Why  did  they  not  mention  my  name  in  the  instruc- 
tions ?  They  knew,  according  to  what  you  say,  that 
I  was  in  the  country  ;  and,  no  matter  how  poor  a 
traveller  I  may  have  been,  it  was  a  contingency  that 
might  arise." 

"  The  truth  is,  they  didn't  want  you  to  find  him. 
You  cannot  imagine  how  jealous  they  are  at  home 
about  this  Expedition  of  yours." 

"  Not  find  Livingstone !  What  does  it  matter  to 
them  who  finds  and  helps  him,  so  long  as  he  is  found 
and  relieved  ?" 

This  was  the  first  shock  I  received,  and  from  this 
moment  I  regarded  myself  as  a  doomed  man  with  the 
English  people.  That  anyone  should  have  been  so 
inhuman  as  to  desire  my  failure,  because  it  was  an 
American  Expedition,  was  the  remotest  idea  that  I 
could  have  entertained.  Until  this  moment  I  had  never 
given  a  thought  as  to  how  people  would  regard  my 
success  or  failure.  I  had  been  too  busily  employed  in 
my  work  even  to  think  of  such  wild  and  improbable 
things,  as  that  any  people  would  rather  hope  that  Dr. 
Livingstone  would  be  irrecoverably  lost  than  that  an 
American  journalist  should  find  him. 

But  I  was  not  long  at  Zanzibar  before  I  was  tho- 
roughly aware  of  the  animus  that  prevailed  in  England 
I  was  shown  clippings  from  newspapers,  wherein  several 


662 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


members  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  had  ridi- 
culed the  American  Expedition ;  and  one  member  had 
even  gone  so  far  as  to  say  that  it  required  the  4 4  steel 
head  of  an  Englishman  "  to  penetrate  Africa.  Dr.  Kirk 
had  written  in  a  kindly  spirit,  and  had  stated  that  his 
"  sole  reliance  was  in  me  ;"  for  which  I  felt  grateful, 
and  regretted  that  I  was  the  bearer  of  a  formal  letter 
to  him  from  Dr.  Livingstone. 

That  evening  I  despatched  a  boy  over  to  the  English 
Consulate  with  letters  from  the  great  traveller  for  Dr. 
Kirk  and  Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone. 

I  was  greeted  warmly  by  the  American  and  German 
residents,  who  could  not  have  shown  warmer  feeling 
than  if  Dr.  Livingstone  had  been  a  near  and  dear 
relation  of  their  own.  Capt.  H.  A.  Fraser  and  Dr. 
James  Christie  were  also  loud  in  their  praises.  It  seems 
that  both  of  these  gentlemen  had  attempted  to  despatch 
a  private  expedition  to  the  relief  of  their  countryman, 
but  through  some  means  it  had  failed.  They  had  contri- 
buted the  sum  of  $500  to  effect  this  laudable  object ; 
but  the  man  to  whom  they  had  entrusted  its  command 
had  been  engaged  by  another  for  a  different  purpose,  at 
a  higher  sum.  But,  instead  of  feeling  annoyed  that  I  had 
performed  what  they  had  intended  to  do,  they  were 
among  my  most  enthusiastic  admirers. 

The  next  day  I  received  a  call  from  Dr.  Kirk,  who 
warmly  congratulated  me  upon  my  success.  He 
never  alluded  in  any  way  to  the  contents  of  the  letter 
received  from  Dr.  Livingstone.  Bishop  Tozer  also  came, 
and  thanked  me  for  the  service  I  had  rendered  to  Dr. 
Livingstone. 

On  this  day  I  also  discharged  my  men,  and  re-engaged 
twenty  of  them  to  return  to  the  "  Great  Master."  Bom- 
bay, though  in  the  interior  he  had  scorned  the  idea  of 


May,  1872.]  VALEDICTORY.  m 

money  rewards,  and  though  he  had  systematically,  in 
my  greatest  need,  endeavoured  to  baffle  me  in  every 
way,  received,  besides  his  pay,  a  present  of  $50,  and 
each  man,  according  to  his  merits,  from  $20  to  $50. 
For  this  was  a  day  to  bury  all  animosities,  and  condone 
all  offences.  They,  poor  people,  had  only  acted  accord- 
ing to  their  nature,  and  I  remembered  that  from  Ujiji 
to  the  coast  they  had  all  behaved  admirably. 

I  saw  I  was  terribly  emaciated  and  changed  when  I 
presented  myself  before  a  full-length  mirror.  All  con- 
firmed my  opinion  that  I  was  much  older  in  my 
appearance,  and  that  my  hair  had  become  grey.  Capt. 
Fraser  had  said,  when  I  hailed  him,  "  You  have  the 
advantage  of  me,  sir  !"  and  until  I  mentioned  my  name 
he  did  not  know  me.  Even  then  he  jocosely  remarked 
that  he  believed  that  it  was  another  Tichborne  affair. 
I  was  so  different  that  identity  was  almost  lost,  even 
during  the  short  period  of  thirteen  months  ;  that  is,  from 
March  23rd,  1871,  to  May  7th,  1872. 

Lieut.  Henn  came  to  me  also  on  the  morning  after 
my  arrival,  and  requested  permission  to  see  the  order 
which  I  received  from  Dr.  Livingstone,  which  was 
granted.    I  append  a  copy  of  the  order  : 

"  Unyanyembe,  14th  March,  1872. 
"  I  have  been  subjected  to  so  much  loss  by  the 
employment  of  slaves  in  caravans  sent  to  me  by  H.M. 
Consul,  that,  if  Mr.  Stanley  meets  another  party  of  the 
sort,  I  beg  of  him  to  turn  them  back,  but  use  his  discre- 
tion in  the  whole  matter. 

"  David  Livingstone." 

"  This  does  not  refer  to  our  expedition  at  all,5'  said 
Lieut.  Henn 


664 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


66  Of  course  not,"  I  replied ;  "  it  refers  to  slave  cara- 
vans. With  your  expedition  I  have  nothing  whatever 
to  do ;  you  are  perfectly  free  to  go,  so  far  as  I  am 
concerned.  But,  if  you  recollect,  you  asked  me  last 
night  if  Dr.  Livingstone  was  relieved.  I  answer  you 
again  that  he  was,  and  here  are  the  things"  (showing 
him  the  Doctor's  list)  ' 6  that  he  says  he  wants.  If  you 
think  that  you  ought  to  go  to  him,  I  would  advise  you 
to  go.  Anyhow,  I  should  advise  you  not  to  sell  the 
goods,  which  I  hear  you  intend  doing,  until  you  hear 
from  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  They  may  have 
other  views  for  you,  since  you  have  gone  to  such  a  vast 
expense  in  preparing  the  expedition." 

"  Oh,  I  shall  resign,  and  turn  the  whole  thing  over 
to  young  Livingstone."  ■ 

"  You  please  yourself.  You  know  your  own  business 
best." 

"  I  know  what  I  will  do.  I  shall  go  with  Capt. 
Fraser  to  Kilima-Njaro,  and  have  some  good  shooting 
there.  New  tells  me  that  there's  lots  of  game  in  that 
country." 

Lieut.  Henn  went  direct  from  the  American  Con- 
sulate and  formally  resigned,  and  the  expedition  was 
from  this  time  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone, 
who  made  up  his  mind  to  sell  the  stores,  retaining 
such  as  would  be  useful  to  his  father.  But,  before  he 
sold  them,  I  advised  Dr.  Kirk  that  it  would  be  best  to 
store  them,  because  the  Royal  Geographical  Society 
might  wish  something  to  be  done  in  the  way  of  explo- 
ration. 

"  No,"  said  Dr.  Kirk,  "  these  goods  belong  to  Dr. 
Livingstone,  and,  as  he  does  not  need  them,  they  can 
be  converted  into  money  for  him  without  much  loss." 

From  the  Rev.  Charles  New,  a  resident  missionary 


May,  1872  ] 


VALEDICTORY. 


665 


on  the  East  Coast  of  Africa,  a  few  miles  west  of  Mom- 
basah,  I  obtained  a  great  many  particulars  respecting  the 
collapse  of  the  English  expedition.  Though  he  ver- 
bally communicated  his  remarks,  he  subsequently  em- 
bodied them  in  the  shape  of  a  letter  to  me.  I  extract 
such  paragraphs  as  bear  on  the  matter  : 

After  a  long  residence  in  East  Africa  I  was  returning  to  England, 
when,  at  Zanzibar,  I  met  with  the  English  expedition  party.  Quite 
unexpectedly,  and  at  the  instance  of  the  Council  of  the  Eoyal 
Geographical  Society,  I  was  asked  to  join  the  expedition.  After  a 
great  deal  of  consideration,  and  some  hesitation,  I  did  so,  accepting 
the  position  of  interpreter  and  third  in  command.  My  agreement, 
drawn  up  by  Lieut.  Dawson,  ran  as  follows : — 

"  I  agree  to  give  my  gratuitous  services  in,  and  to  join,  the 
Livingstone  Search  and  Relief  Expedition,  as  originally  organized 
in  England  by  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  on  the  following 
understanding — 

"1st.  Should  accident  incapacitate  Lieut.  Dawson  from  continuing 
the  command,  I  agree  to  consider  Lieut.  William  Henn  the  commander 
of  the  expedition,  and  to  act  under  him  as  such. 

"  2nd.  Should  Lieut.  William  Henn  be  also  incapacitated,  I  agree 
to  take  command,  and  use  my  best  endeavours  to  carry  out  the  objects 
of  the  expedition  as  laid  down  in  the  instructions  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society." 

That  was  the  agreement  I  signed.  Having  joined  the  expedition, 
I  did  my  utmost  to  push  forward  its  preparations  till  all  was  ready 
and  we  were  to  start.  Lieut.  Dawson,  Lieut.  Henn,  and  myself 
crossed  the  Channel  to  Bagamoyo,  with  the  goods  and  guard,  with  the 
view  of  engaging  wa-pagazi  forthwith,  and  starting  without  delay. 
On  our  arrival  at  Bagamoyo  we  met  three  men  who  had  arrived  two 
or  three  days  before  us,  and  who  were  said  to  have  come  down  from 
the  interior  from  you.  We  examined  them,  learning  from  them 
that  you  had  met  Dr.  Livingstone  at  Ujiji ;  that  you  and  the  Doctor 
had  gone  together  to  the  north  end  of  the  lake ;  had  seen  the  river 
Rusizi  running  into  the  lake ;  that  you  had  then  returned  to  Ujiji, 
and  had  thence  pushed  your  way  eastward  as  far  as  Unyanyembe  ; 
that  there  Dr.  Livingstone  remained  with  the  view  of  prosecuting 
further  researches,  but  that  you  were  returning  with  all  speed  to  the 
coast ;  that  you  had  already  reached  Ugogo,  and  might  be  expected  in 
Bagamoyo  in  two  or  three  days'  time. 


066 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Dawson  and  Henn  then  expressed  their  intention  of  throwing  up 
the  expedition,  and  of  returning  to  England,  on  the  ground  that  you 
had  done  the  work  they  had  come  to  Africa  to  do.  But  that  evening 
Lieut.  Dawson  asked  me,  if,  provided  it  were  deemed  necessary  to 
send  on  relief  to  Dr.  Livingstone,  I  should  be  willing  to  take  it  on. 
I  expressed  my  readiness  to  consider  such  a  proposal.  Next  day 
Lieut.  Dawson  returned  to  Zanzibar  to  consult  with  Dr.  Kirk.  Two 
days  after  1  received  a  letter  each  from  Dr.  Kirk  and  Lieut.  Dawson. 
Both  offered  to  place  the  Relief  Expedition  in  my  hands ;  Mr.  Oswald 
Livingstone  consenting  to  act  under  my  own  guidance,  he  being 
anxious  still  to  go  on  to  his  father.  I  wrote  to  Dr.  Kirk,  expressing 
my  readiness  to  take  charge  of  the  Relief  Expedition.  But,  in  the 
meantime,  Lieut.  Henn  had  changed  his  mind,  and  he  now  insisted 
upon  assuming  the  command.  I  was  obliged  to  retire  in  his  favour.  It 
was  hoped,  however,  that  I  would  act  under  Lieut.  Henn  as  second  in 
command ;  and,  had  it  been  needful,  or  even  possible,  I  would  have 
done  so. 

But  the  expedition  was  no  longer  what  it  had  been  as  originally 
organized  in  England  :  it  was  become  a  comparatively  insignificant 
trip  to  Unyanyembe,  which  any  two  men,  with  an  ordinary  amount  of 
real  interest  in  it,  and  a  fair  share  of  pluck  and  perseverance,  might 
have  accomplished.  That  is  most  certainly  the  view  I  took  of  the 
matter.  I  therefore  retired,  on  the  ground  that  my  services  were  no 
longer  necessary,  and  that  my  presence  would  only  complicate  a  very 
easy  task.  It  is  generally  thought  that  I  had  signed  an  agreement 
to  act  under  Lieut.  Henn  under  any  circumstances.  This  is  not  the 
case.  My  agreement  was  with  the  expedition  as  originally  organized  in 
England,  and  to  serve  under  Lieut.  Henn,  provided  Lieut.  Dawson 
were  incapacitated  through  acccident.  But  Lieut.  Dawson  was  not  in- 
capacitated through  accident.  He  resigned ;  and  his  resignation,  as 
originally  organized,  upset,  as  Dr.  Kirk  said  in  his  letter  to  me,  all 
previous  arrangements,  and  upon  this  ground  the  expedition  was 
offered  to  me.  After  Lieut.  Dawson's  withdrawal  new  arrangements 
had  to  be  made,  and  each  individual  was  at  liberty  to  go  on  or 
retire  as  he  pleased. 

But  I  had  other  reasons  for  not  accepting  a  second  place  in  such  an 
expedition,  under  Lieut.  Henn.  In  my  opinion  he  was  unfit,  and  in- 
capable of  conducting  such  an  expedition.  At  starting  he  had 
declared  that  his  (main  object)  was  for  sport — to  try  his  hand  at 
shooting  buffaloes  and  elephants.  Now  such  a  man,  in  my  opinion, 
was  not  the  man  to  send  to  the  relief  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  I  do  not 
think  I  ought  to  have  been  asked  to  act  second  to  him ;  though,  had 
the  original  expedition  stood,  I  would  have  gone  forward  at  all  risks. 


May,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


667 


Another  point:  Lieut.  Henn  had  threatened  to  retire  from  the 
expedition  before  we  heard  anything  of  your  return  ;  thus  exhibiting 
an  instability  which  augured  the  worst  things  in  regard  to  his  success 
as  commander.  Learning  that  Lieut.  Henn  had  threatened  to  retire, 
I  called  upon  Dr.  Kirk  expressly  to  talk  with  that  gentleman  about 
the  matter.  I  pointed  out  to  Dr.  Kirk  that  this  state  of  things 
seriously  involved  the  success  of  the  expedition,  and  suggested  that 
the  party  be  called  together,  in  order  to  bring  about  a  better  under- 
standing between  Lieut.  Dawson  and  Lieut.  Henn.  Dr.  Kirk  said, 
"  No  ;  do  nothing  of  the  kind.  Henn  will  go  with  you  two  or  three 
days  into  the  country,  and  then  quietly  retire." 

We  will  stop  here.  I  have  done  a  friendly  part  by 
Mr.  New,  as  I  have  a  high  idea  of  his  capabilities  for 
his  high  and  noble  vocation  ;  and  I  am  sure  he  will 
pardon  me  if  I  point  out,  in  a  friendly,  critical  way,  his 
own  little  faults.  The  reader  may  gather  from  the 
above  letter  that  affairs  stood  on  no  amiable  footing 
between  Messrs.  Dawson,  Henn,  and  New.  Indeed, 
from  what  was  current  at  Zanzibar,  a  stranger  would 
have  imagined  that  the  three  gentlemen  were  at 
daggers  drawn  towards  one  another  ;  but  this  was  only 
apparent  and  superficial— there  was  no  deep  hostility. 
It  was  rather  early  in  the  day  for  a  real  quarrel  to 
have  taken  place.  While  they  were  all  united  under 
one  absolute  and  firm  leader,  trivial  antipathies  slum- 
bered and  were  passive ;  but,  as  soon  as  the  leader — 
Lieut.  Dawson — retired,  a  little  jealousy  appeared,  which 
was  provoked  into  activity  by  the  question  which  Dawson 
asked  New,  "  Whether,  in  the  event  of  relief  being  neces- 
sary, he  would  be  willing  to  take  command?"  Mr.  New 
wished  to  deliberate  upon  it;  but  we  must  also  remem- 
ber that  Mr.  Henn  desired  to  do  the  same  thing,  as  it 
was  but  a  verbal  and  thoughtless  expression  he  used 
when  he  said  he  wTould  te throw  up  "  the  expedition:  he 
had  not  arrived  at  any  final  conclusion.  After  two  days' 


668 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


deliberation,  Mr.  New  declared  his  "  readiness  tc  accept 
the  command but,  just  at  this  juncture,  Mr.  Henn 
expressed  his  determination  to  proceed  with  the  relief 
party ;  and,  as  he  was  second  in  command,  he  had  the 
option  to  dispose  of  that  right  as  he  pleased,  and  the 
several  parties  conceded  it  to  him,  as  they  were  bound 
by  contract  to  do  so.  Mr.  New,  however — according  to 
his  own  statement — resigned,  and  pleaded  as  an  excuse 
that  the  "  expedition  was  no  longer  what  it  had  been  ;" 
but  Mr.  New  is  inclined  to  be  inconsistent  when  he 
states  its  constitution  was  altered.  It  is  true  that  the 
former  chief  had  retired  ;  but,  according  to  his  own 
version,  he  had  pledged  himself  to  obey  Lieut.  Henn — 
if  Lieut.  Dawson  was  incapacitated  by  accident.  The 
"  accident " — nothing  less  than  my  appearance — did 
occur,  and  Lieut.  Dawson  incapacitated  himself  by  a 
voluntary  resignation,  by  voluntarily  depriving  himself 
of  the  power  to  command ;  therefore,  Lieut.  Henn  had 
the  right  to  command,  and  Mr.  Charles  New  was  bound 
to  obey  him.  "  Should  accident  incapacitate  Lieut. 
Dawson  from  continuing  the  command,  I  agree  to 
consider  Lieut.  William  Henn  the  commander  of  the 
expedition,  and  to  act  under  him  as  such."  In  this 
agreement  there  is  no  mention  of  original  organization. 

Mr.  New  further  adds,  that  it  had  become  a  "  com- 
paratively insignificant  trip  to  Unyanyembe,  which 
any  two  men,  with  an  ordinary  amount  of  real  interest 
in  it,  and  a  fair  share  of  pluck  and  perseverance,  might 
have  accomplished."  I  agree  with  him  there  ;  and  not 
only  two,  but  one  could  have  gone ;  and  accomplished 
the  designs  of  the  expedition  far  better  than  two 
quarrelsome  men.  About  its  comparative  insignificance 
I  differ  with  him.  I  should  say  it  was  far  more  difficult 
for  an   inexperienced   party  to  take   a  caravan  to 


May,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


669 


Unyanyembe,  than  for  an  experienced  party  to  lead 
one  from  Unyanyembe  beyond.  By  the  time  the  party 
arrived  at  Unyanyembe,  it  would  have  been  educated 
in  the  school  of  experience,  and  the  after  journey  would 
be  as  nothing  compared  to  the  first  essay  in  a  new  field. 
At  least,  I  found  it  so.  I  had  more  trouble  in  going  to 
Unyanyembe  with  my  caravans  than  I  had  in  all  the 
other  journeys  together.  The  experience  I  had  ac- 
quired in  marching  the  first  half  enabled  me  to  accom- 
plish the  other  journeys  with  ease  and  rapidity.  If  the 
experience  of  Mr.  Charles  New,  as  an  African  traveller, 
was  worth  anything,  or  was  even  going  to  be  of  value 
to  a  raw  party,  it  was  from  the  coast  to  Unyanyembe, 
and  not  from  Unyanyembe  beyond. 

After  reaching  Unyanyembe,  I  should  say  that 
Lieut.  Henn  and  Mr.  Livingstone  would  have  been 
perfectly  competent  to  take  the  caravan  anywhere, 
without  Mr.  New;  the  lessons  they  had  acquired  on 
the  march  would  have  enabled  them  to  utterly  ignore 
him.  No  ;  I  should  say  if  Mr.  New,  u  after  a  little 
hesitation,"  agreed  to  join  the  party  when  a  man  like 
Dawson  had  charge  of  it,  in  order  to  give  it  the  benefit 
of  his  experience,  and  if,  after  Dawson  retired,  he  con- 
sidered Henn  incapable,  in  the  opinion  of  all  right- 
minded  men  he  was  more  than  ever  bound  to  sustain 
both  Henn  and  Livingstone  with  his  experience,  until 
he  had  taught  them  how  to  travel  without  him  ;  then 
Mr.  New  might  have  retired,  had  he  wished  it,  with 
grace  and  credit  to  himself. 

Though Henns  main  object  might  be  to  shoot  buffalo 
and  elephant,  it  does  not  absolve  Mr.  New  from  his 
duty  of  accompanying,  advising,  and  encouraging  him 
in  his  loyalty — when  all  sport  failed — to  the  real  and 
principal  object  of  the  expedition,  to  which  they  had 


670 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


one  and  all  pledged  their  support.  Lieut.  Henn  might 
have  been  of  an  unstable  and  mercurial  disposition  by 
nature ;  but  he  proved  himself  to  be  more  consistent — 
even  though  his  object  were  sport — in  proceeding  for 
the  second  time  to  Bagamoyo,  than  Mr.  New,  who, 
when  he  returned  from  Bagamoyo,  never  returned  to 
his  duty,  but  resigned  his  position,  then  proffered  his 
aid,  and  again  withdrew  it ;  and  all  because  he  was 
offered  the  command  when  Henn  had  not  quite  decided 
to  go,  and  because,  when  he  did  decide  to  go,  the  com- 
mand was  given  to  him  as  a  right  to  which  he  was 
fairly  entitled,  and  not  to  the  Eev.  Charles  New. 

It  was  Mr.  New's  duty  to  have  gone  on  under  Henn, 
as  he  had  pledged  himself  to  do ;  then,  if  Henn 
should  have  verified  the  prediction  of  Dr.  Kirk,  he 
could  have  stepped  with  honor  and  credit  to  himself 
into  the  command  which  he  seems,  by  his  own  account, 
to  have  so  much  coveted. 

Though  Mr.  New  does  not  appear  in  an  enviable 
light  in  this  act  of  the  little  comedy  of  "  How  not  to 
do  it,"  in  the  first  act  he  shines  as  something  heroic, 
and  I  feel  myself  admiring  him  intensely,  as  a  true, 
earnest,  and  brave-hearted  man.  After  a  nine  years' 
residence  in  Africa,  he  meets,  on  the  eve  of  departure 
for  England,  whither  he  proposes  to  go  for  the  invi- 
goration  of  his  enfeebled  frame,  with  a  request  to 
accompany  the  English  Search  Expedition  as  inter- 
preter ;  and  after  a  little  hesitation  only,  he  gives  his 
utmost  aid,  and  pledges  himself  to  do  the  best  in  his 
power  for  the  furtherance  of  the  charitable  mission  on 
which  the  little  knot  of  Englishmen  are  bound.  Until 
he  hears  from  my  men  that  Livingstone  is  found  and 
relieved,  he  devotes  himself  to  his  task  with  all  the 
energy  of  his  nature  ;  sails  from  Zanzibar  to  Mombasah, 


May,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


671 


and  presently  returns  with  twenty  soldiers,  as  guard 
for  the  expedition  ;  and  through  his  loyalty  and  devo- 
tion to  his  work  wins  all  hearts.  Mr.  New  has  left  a 
very  good  impression  in  Zanzibar  among  the  European 
residents,  and  their  unanimous  belief  is  that,  if  I  had 
not  come  so  soon  to  the  coast,  he  would  have  earned 
the  large  and  costly  expedition  through  in  fine  order. 
I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  he  was  perfectly 
qualified  for  his  work,  from  his  energetic  nature  and 
long  experience. 

But  the  great  fault  of  the  organization  was  the 
attempt  to  assimilate  so  many  uncongenial  characters 
into  one  harmonious  unity.  Not  one  member  had  the 
least  affinity  of  character  with  the  other.  One  was 
ambitious,  positive,  hasty,  and  inclined  to  be  aggres- 
sive ;  another  was  mercurial,  impulsive,  inconsistent  by 
nature ;  another  was  nervous,  energetic,  religious,  and 
too  candid ;  the  other  was  reticent,  earnest,  and  deter- 
mined. New  and  Livingstone  would  have  succeeded 
admirably.  Dawson,  by  himself,  would  have  been 
better  than  with  anybody  else.  Henn,  charged  with 
the  sole  command,  would  have  honorably  performed 
his  duty,  for  pluck  and  honor  were  the  two  principal 
ingredients  of  his  character.  As  a  body,  uniform 
and  harmonious,  the  elements  of  cohesion  were  wanting 
in  three  of  them ;  while  one  would  have  joined  neither 
party,  but  remained  a  neutral  witness  to  factions.  Had 
they  gone  the  party  must  have  quarrelled ;  and  it 
would  have  been  a  worse  disgrace  than  not  going  at  all. 
It  was  therefore  fortunate  for  the  credit  of  Englishmen 
that  my  arrival  saved  their  expedition  from  collapsing 
and  being  wrecked  in  the  interior. 

Few  opportunities  present  themselves  at  Zanzibar 
for  departure  from  the  island.    H.M.S.  '  Magpie '  had 


672 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


departed  the  very  next  morning  after  my  arrival  for  a 
cruise,  and  we  found  afterwards  that  she  had  spoken 
the  '  Wolverine '  at  sea,  as  was  her  intention,  and  had 
transmitted  letters  and  despatches  by  that  war-vessel 
to  Seychelles  and  England.  If  it  be  true,  as  reported 
to  me,  that  an  English  man-of-war  would  not  have 
stayed  an  hour,  even,  for  Dr.  Livingstone,  I  have  no 
right  to  feel  aggrieved  that  she  did  not  wait  for  me  to 
send  even  a  small  despatch  by  her  about  Livingstone; 
but  at  the  same  time  I  thought  it  strange,  if  a  captain 
of  a  man-of-war  could  steam  his  vessel  to  Bagamoyo 
for  a  hunting  party,  that  another  captain  could  not  stay 
even  a  few  minutes,  to  take  a  letter  announcing  the 
safety  of  Livingstone. 

I  was  told  on  the  authority  of  an  English  clergyman 
that  even  if  Dr.  Livingstone  himself  had  appeared  at 
Zanzibar,  a  British  cruiser  could  not  be  detained  an 
hour  beyond  time  to  convey  him  away  ;  but  I  can 
hardly  suppose  that  the  necessary  discipline  of  a 
British  man-of-war  would  not,  in  such  an  exceptional 
case,  have  been  relaxed. 

After  disbanding  my  Expedition  I  set  about  preparing 
another,  according  to  Dr.  Livingstone's  request.  What 
the  English  expedition  lacked  I  purchased  out  of  the 
money  advanced  by  Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone.  The 
guns,  fifty  in  number,  were  also  furnished  out  of  the 
stores  of  the  English  expedition  by  him ;  and  so  were 
the  ammunition,  the  honga  cloth,  for  the  tribute  to  the 
Wagogo,  and  the  cloth  for  provisioning  the  force.  Mr. 
Livingstone  worked  hard  in  the  interests  of  his  father, 
and  assisted  me  to  the  utmost  of  his  ability.  He  delivered 
over  to  me,  to  be  packed  up,  '  Nautical  Almanacs 1 
for  1872,  1873,  1874;  also  a  chronometer,  which  was 
in  the  charge  of  Dr.  Kirk,  and  which  formerly  belonged 


May,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


673 


to  Dr.  Livingstone.  All  these  things,  besides  a  journal, 
envelopes,  note-books,  writing-paper,  medicines,  canned 
fruits  and  fish,  a  little  wine,  some  tea,  cutlery  and  table 
ware,  newspapers,  and  private  letters  and  despatches, 
were  packed  up  in  air-tight  boxes  of  tin,  as  well  as 
100  lbs.  of  fine  American  flour,  and  some  boxes  of  soda 
biscuits. 

Until  the  19th  of  May  it  was  understood  that  Mr. 
Oswald  Livingstone  would  take  charge  of  the  caravan 
to  his  father ;  but  about  this  date  he  changed  his  mind, 
and  surprised  me  with  a  note  stating  he  had  decided 
not  to  go  to  Unyanyembe,  for  reasons  he  thought  just 
and  sufficient.  I  ventured  to  suggest  that  it  was  his 
duty  to  go,  since  he  had  come  so  far  as  Zanzibar ;  but 
it  was  evident  he  acted  as  he  thought  best ;  ana,  taking 
into  consideration  the  fact  that  Dr.  Kirk  advised  him 
not  to  injure  his  health,  and  waste  his  studies,  when 
there  was  no  absolute  necessity  of  his  personal  super- 
intendence of  the  caravan,  I  think  he  acted  quite  right 
in  resigning.  Dr.  Kirk  was  his  father's  friend,  his 
father's  former  companion  on  the  Zambezi;  and  as 
young  Mr.  Livingstone  had  abundant  faith  and  con- 
fidence in  his  judgment,  more  than  he  had  in  his  own, 
it  was  but  natural  that  he  should  adopt  the  advice  of 
his  father's  friend. 

Under  these  circumstances,  my  duty  was  to  follow 
out  the  instructions  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  in  procuring  a 
good  and  efficient  leader — an  Arab — for  leading  the 
expedition  to  Unyanyembe ;  and  with  this  view  I 
wrote  a  letter  to  Dr.  Kirk,  requesting  his  influence  with 
the  Sultan.  The  reply  I  received  from  Dr.  Kirk  reads 
thus : 

2  x 


674 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


"  British  Agency,  Zanzibar,  20th  May,  1872. 

"  My  dear  Sir, 

"  Dr.  Livingstone's  own  letter  to  Seyd  Burghash 
has  been  long  ago  transmitted  and  explained  to  him, 
but  I  then  mentioned  that  you  no  longer  thought  ot 
troubling  him  for  the  responsible  head  man  described. 
Under  the  altered  circumstances,  Mr.  W.  0.  Livingstone 
having  abandoned  the  idea  of  following  his  father,  I 
shall  be  only  too  glad  to  aid  you  with  the  Sultan,  and 
shall,  if  you  desire,  at  once  send,  and  tell  him  to  pick 
out  the  proper  man,  whom  you  will,  of  course,  review, 
and  reject  or  approve,  as  you  think  best. 

"  Very  truly  yours, 
(Signed)  "        "  John  Kirk/' 

The  application  of  Dr.  Kirk  to  the  Sultan  for  a  man 
was  unsuccessful,  so  he  subsequently  informed  me  ;  and, 
upon  receiving  this  information,  I  set  about  looking  for 
a  leader  in  another  direction,  and  in  a  few  hours  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  one  highly  recommended  from 
Sheikh  Hashid,  whom  I  engaged  at  an  advance  of  $100. 
The  young  Arab,  though  not  remarkably  bright,  seemed 
honest  and  able,  but  I  left  his  further  employment  after 
reaching  Unyanyembe  to  Dr.  Livingstone,  who  would 
be  able  to  decide  then  whether  he  was  quite  trust- 
worthy. 

On  the  25th,  Lieut.  Dawson,  after  engaging  passage 
in  the  American  barque,  '  Mary  A.  Way,'  Capt.  Russell, 
for  New  York,  sailed  on  that  day.  I  supplied  him 
with  a  letter  of  introduction  to  a  friend  of  mine  in  New 
York.  We  parted  on  terms  of  the  utmost  amity  and 
goodwill,  as  I  regarded  him  as  a  most  chivalrous 
gentleman. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  Dr.  Kirk  called  at  the 


Mat,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


675 


American  Consulate  to  visit  his  friend,  Mr.  Webb,  and 
while  in  the  house  I  took  the  opportunity  of  saying  to 
him,  "  Doctor,  I  fear  I  will  not  be  able  to  despatch  the 
expedition  to  Dr.  Livingstone  so  early  as  I  hoped.  If 
the  steamer  which  Mr.  Henn,  Mr.  Livingstone,  and 
myself  have  chartered  is  obliged  to  sail  before  I  can 
embark  the  expedition,  I  shall  have  to  ask  you  to  take 
charge  of  it." 

To  which  Dr.  Kirk  replied,  "  If  you  do,  I  shall  have 
to  decline  it.  I  am  not  going  to  expose  myself 
to  needless  insult  again.*  I  am  not  going  to  do  any- 
thing more  for  Dr.  Livingstone  in  a  private  capacity. 
Officially  I  will,  as  I  would  for  any  other  British 
subject." 

"  Needless  insult,  did  you  say,  Dr.  Kirk  ?"  I  asked. 
"  Yes." 

44  May  I  ask  what  it  consists  of  ?" 

44  He  blames  me  for  the  failure  of  the  caravans  to 
reach  him,  and  charges  me  with  having  employed 
slaves.  If  the  men  did  not  reach  him,  how  can  I 
help  it  r 

44  Pardon  me,  Dr.  Kirk,  but  if  you  were  in 
Dr.  Livingstone's  place,  you  would  have  done  so 
yourself.  Your  best  friend  would  have  been  suspected 
of  coldness — to  say  nothing  else — had  you  been  told, 
time  after  time,  by  leaders  of  caravans,  that  they  had 
been  commanded  by  the  Consul  to  bring  you  back,  and 
on  no  account  to  go  with  you  anywhere." 

44  But  he  could  see  by  the  contracts  that  they  had 
been  engaged  to  follow  him  wherever  he  chose.  If  he 
prefers  to  believe  negroes,  and  half-castes,  and  doubt 

*  Readers  interested  in  this  subject  may  be  curious  to  know  what 
this  insult  was.  It  refers  to  Dr.  Livingstone's  letter  to  Dr.  Kirk, 
dated  Ujiji,  Oct.  30,  1871.— See  Appendix. 


676 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


my  word  and  official  communications,  he  is  a  fool ;  that 
is  all  I  have  got  to  say." 

"  My  dear  sir,  how  can  Dr.  Livingstone  help  doubting 
the  contract  ?  Do  not  all  the  men  swear  to  him  that 
you  have  commanded  them  to  bring  him  back  ?  All 
his  entreaties  are  of  no  avail,  and  the  whole  ends  by 
them  forcing  him  back  from  his  discoveries.  What 
was  he  to  do,  but  believe  that  there  was  something 
inexplicable  in  it  ?  All  through  the  interior  he  has 
heard  the  same  tale  over  and  over  again,  that  you  have 
sent  a  letter  to  him,  ordering  him  to  come  back." 

"  I  cannot  help  it.  I  have  written  him  a  letter  just 
as  good  as  he  sent  me." 

"  Well,"  said  I,  "  it  won't  do  for  me  to  leave  the 
caravan  in  Zanzibar.    I  must  send  it  off  myself,  then." 

The  next  day  I  collected  the  men  together,  and  as  it 
was  dangerous  to  allow  them  to  wander  about  the  city, 
I  locked  them  up  in  a  courtyard,  and  fed  them  there, 
until  every  soul,  fifty-seven  in  number,  answered  to 
their  names. 

In  the  meantime,  through  the  American  Consul's 
assistance,  I  obtained  the  services  of  Johari,  the  chief 
dragoman  of  the  American  Consulate,  who  was  charged 
with  the  conduct  of  the  party  across  the  inundated 
plain  of  the  Kingani,  and  who  was  enjoined  on  no 
account  to  return  until  the  expedition  had  started  on 
its  march  from  the  western  bank  of  the  Kingani  River. 
Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone  generously  paid  him  a  douceur 
for  the  promise  of  doing  his  work  thoroughly. 

A  dhow  having  been  brought  to  anchor  before  the 
American  Consulate,  I  then  addressed  my  old  com- 
panions, saying,  "You  are  now  about  to  return  to 
Unyanyembe,  to  the  6  Great  Master.'  You  know  him  ; 
you  know  he  is  a  good  man,  and  has  a  kind  heart.  He 


May,  1872.] 


VAIjEDICTOBT. 


677 


is  different  from  me  ;  he  will  not  beat  you,  as  1  have  done, 
But  you  know  I  have  rewarded  you  all — how  I  have 
made  you  all  rich  in  cloth  and  money.  You  know  how, 
when  you  behaved  yourselves  well,  I  was  your  friend. 
I  gave  you  plenty  to  eat  and  plenty  to  wear.  When 
you  were  sick  I  looked  after  you.  If  I  was  so  good  to 
you,  the  Great  Master  will  be  much  more  so.  He  has  a 
pleasant  voice,  and  speaks  kind.  When  did  you  ever 
see  him  lift  his  hand  against  an  offender  ?  When  you 
were  wicked,  he  did  not  speak  to  you  in  anger — he 
spoke  to  you  in  tones  of  sorrow.  Now,  will  you 
promise  me  that  you  will  follow  him — do  what  he  tells 
you,  obey  him  in  all  things,  and  not  desert  him  ?" 

"  We  will,  we  will,  my  master !"  they  all  cried, 
fervently. 

"  Then  there  is  one  thing  more.  I  want  to  shake 
hands  with  you  all  before  you  go — and  we  part  for 
ever  ;"  and  they  all  rushed  up  at  once,  and  a  vigorous 
shake  was  interchanged  with  each  man. 

"  Now,  let  every  man  take  up  his  load  !" 

In  a  short  time  I  marched  them  out  into  the  street, 
and  to  the  beach ;  saw  them  all  on  board,  and  the 
canvas  hoisted,  and  the  dhow  speeding  westward  on 
her  way  to  Bagamoyo. 

I  felt  strange  and  lonely,  somehow.  My  dark 
friends,  who  had  travelled  over  so  many  hundreds  of 
miles,  and  shared  so  many  dangers  with  me,  were  gone, 
and  I — was  left  behind.  How  many  of  their  friendly 
faces  shall  I  see  again  ? 

On  the  29th,  the  steamer  4  Africa,'  belonging  to  the 
German  Consulate,  chartered  by  Messrs.  Henn,  Living- 
stone, New,  Morgan,  and  myself,  departed  from 
Zanzibar  for  Seychelles,  with  the  good  wishes  of  almosl 
all  the  European  residents  on  the  island. 


678 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


On  our  voyage  eastward,  we  sighted  the  '  Mary 
A.  Way/  in  which  poor  Dawson  had  taken  passage.  It 
was  a  matter  of  wonder  to  us  that  Dawson  should  have 
sailed  for  England  by  such  a  roundabout  way.  But 
after  arriving  in  England,  I  saw  a  letter  sent  by  him 
to  the  Secretary  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
wherein  he  says  : — 

"I  should  have  proceeded  by  the  same  route;  but, 
though  I  do  not  grudge  Mr.  Stanley  his  well-earned 
success,  it  would  be  distasteful  to  me,  if  not  to  both  of 
us,  to  travel  in  company  ;  and  opportunities  are  but 
few  from  Zanzibar  to  Europe." 

I  cannot  imagine  the  spirit  in  which  this  letter  is 
dictated.  It  differs  very  much  from  the  frank,  generous 
nature  I  took  him  to  have.  I  can  understand,  however, 
that  it  would  be  distasteful  to  him  to  sail  with  me,  if 
any  one  were  guilty  of  ungenerous  and  invidious  com- 
parisons ;  but  why  it  should  be  distasteful  to  me,  I 
cannot  conceive. 

We  arrived  at  Seychelles  on  the  9  th  of  June,  about 
twelve  hours  after  the  French  mail  had  departed  for 
Aden.  As  there  is  only  monthly  communication 
between  Mane'  (Seychelles)  and  Aden,  we  were  com- 
pelled to  remain  on  the  island  of  Mahe  one  month. 
Messrs.  Livingstone,  New,  Morgan,  and  myself,  hired 
a  nice  little  wooden  house,  which  we  called  the 
'Livingstone  Cottage,"  while  Mr.  Henn  resorted  to 
an  hotel. 

My  life  in  Mahe  is  among  the  most  agreeable  things 
connected  with  my  return  from  Africa.  I  found  my 
companions  estimable  gentlemen,  and  true  Christians. 
Mr.  Livingstone  exhibited  many  amiable  traits  of 
character,  and  proved  himself  to  be  a  studious, 
thoughtful,  earnest  man.    When  at  last  the  French 


May,  1872.] 


VALEDICTORY. 


679 


steamer  came  from  Mauritius,  there  was  not  one  of  our 
party  who  did  not  regret  leaving  the  beautiful  island, 
and  the  hospitable  British  officers  who  were  stationed 
there.  The  Civil  Commissioner,  Mr.  Hales  Franklyn, 
and  Dr.  Brooks,  did  their  utmost  to  welcome  the 
wanderer,  and  I  take  this  opportunity  to  acknowledge 
the  many  civilities  I  personally  received  from  them. 

At  Aden,  the  passengers  from  the  south  were 
transferred  on  board  the  French  mail  steamer,  the 
4  Mei-kong,'  en  route  from  China  to  Marseilles.  At 
the  latter  port  I  was  received  with  open  arms  by 
Dr.  Hosmer  and  the  representative  of  the  '  Daily 
Telegraph ;'  and  was  then  told  how  men  regarded  the 
results  of  the  Expedition  ;  but  it  was  not  until  I  arrived 
in  England  that  I  realized  it. 

Mr.  Bennett,  who  originated  and  sustained  the 
enterprise,  now  crowned  it  by  one  of  the  most  generous 
acts  that  could  be  conceived.  I  had  promised  Dr. 
Livingstone,  that  twenty-four  hours  after  I  saw  his 
letters  published  in  the  London  journals,  I  would  post 
his  letters  to  his  family  and  friends  in  England.  In 
order  to  permit  me  to  keep  my  plighted  word,  his 
agent  telegraphed  the  two  letters  I  received  from  him, 
by  cable,  at  an  expense  of  nearly  £2,000. 

***** 

A  few  more  words,  and  I  shall  conclude,  my  dear 
reader.  It  were,  perhaps,  more  dignified  in  me  if  I 
halted  here,  and  wrote  finis  to  this  record  of  Travels, 
Adventures,  and  Discoveries ;  but  there  are  some 
things  which  I  cannot  pass  by  in  silence,  and  amongst 
them  is,  the  treatment  I  have  received  in  England. 

The  English  Press  seemed  to  have  been  laboring, 
before  I  arrived  in  England,  under  a  tissue  of  errors 


680 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


Hardly  an  African  word  was  correct — dates  were  all 
wrong — facts  were  distorted  in  the  most  in compre- 
hensible manner ;  and  these  seemed  to  give  rise  to 
doubts  and  suspicions.  Except  a  letter  from  TJnya- 
nyembe,  despatches  on  my  return  to  Zanzibar,  and  my 
letters  at  Marseilles,  I  repudiate  all  else.  What  I 
have  written  only  will  I  father.  What  is  published  in 
the  '  New  York  Herald,'  as  my  letters  and  despatches,  I 
assert  to  be  correct— except  where  typographical  errors 
have  crept  in,  which  were  natural,  owing  to  the 
strangeness  of  the  names,  and,  perhaps,  to  my  own 
handwriting ;  which,  when  a  man  is  suffering  from 
fever,  is  not  likely  to  be  very  perspicuous  or  neat. 

But  it  is  an  astounding  fact,  that  English  editors  felt 
jealous  that  it  had  been  left  to  an  American  corre- 
spondent to  discover  Dr.  Livingstone.  Almost  all  the 
English  journals  expressed  their  views  upon  this  point 
in  unmistakable  terms,  though  the  principal  and  most 
respectable  did  not  hesitate  at  the  same  time  to  give 
me  a  large  meed  of  praise — I  refer  to  the  6  Times,'  the 
'  Daily  Telegraph,'  the  6  Daily  News,'  and  '  Morning 
Post/ 

Gentlemen  editors,  though  I  thank  you  for  your 
compliments  to  a  journalist,  yet  young,  and  in  no 
way  distinguished,  in  his  own  humble  opinion,  I  must 
say,  frankly,  you  have  no  right  to  feel  jealous  of  me,  or 
of  any  one  else.  I  am  only  a  Special  Correspondent,  at 
the  beck  and  call  of  the  journal  which  I  have  the  honor 
to  serve.  I  was  bound  by  my  engagements  with  it  to 
proceed  to  any  quarter  of  the  globe  whenever  the  order 
came.  I  sought  not  the  distinction  of  searching  after 
Livingstone.  When  I  received  the  call  I  was  compelled 
to  obey,  or  to  resign.  I  preferred  to  obey  rather  than 
to  resign.    If  you  have  read  this  book,  you  will  know 


VALEDICTORY. 


683 


what  became  of  the  mission  with  which  I  was  entrusted  ; 
how  it  began,  and  how  it  ended. 

Neither  have  you  a  right,  gentlemen,  to  feel  jealous 
of  the  gentleman  who  employed  me.  Africa  was  as 
much  open  to  you  as  it  was  to  him.  Americans  felt  as 
great  an  interest  in  Dr.  Livingstone  as  Englishmen  did. 
As  many  Americans  had  read  his  books  as  English- 
men had  done.  Prompted  by  the  desire  to  satisfy 
the  craving  which  Americans  felt  in  regard  to  the 
safety  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  he  conceived  the  idea  of 
despatching  a  "  Special  "  into  Central  Africa  to  search 
for  him.  He  had  abundant  means,  and  had  the  will. 
If  one  Special  had  refused  the  errand,  another  had 
accepted  it ;  there  were  enough  of  them  at  his  com- 
mand. Had  each  of  the  permanent  employes  on  his 
journal  refused  the  task,  a  volunteer  from  thb  intelligent 
masses  had  easily  been  found,  and  the  results,  through 
God's  good  pleasure,  would  have  been  the  same  as  they 
are  now — probably  better.  Had  any  of  you  thought  of 
accomplishing  the  task,  and  willed  that  it  should  be 
accomplished,  a  thousand  Englishmen  had  volunteered 
for  it  at  once,  and  the  same  results  would  have  been 
obtained — perhaps  better.  You  have  all  distinguished 
yourselves.  The  4  Times/  in  the  Crimea,  in  the  Indian 
Mutiny,  and  in  politics ;  its  title  is  well  known  in  every 
part  of  the  globe.  The  4  Daily  Telegraph  '  has  distin- 
guished itself  also  in  a  hundred  instances,  and  so  has  the 
*  Daily  News.'  If  the  4  New  York  Herald '  desired  to  carry 
the  enterprise  of  the  Press  into  the  heart  of  Africa,  into 
the  domain  of  fable  and  mystery,  who  will  gainsay  it  ? 
If  it  can  afford  the  cost,  why  should  other  journals 
murmur  ?  It  is  simply  a  question  of  money,  which  is  the 
sinew  of  all  enterprises.  With  a  sufficient  supply  of  it 
all  Africa  can  be  explored  easily.    Not  only  explored, 


682 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


but  conquered  and  civilized.  Not  only  civilized,  but 
intersected  by  railroads  from  one  end  to  the  other, 
through  and  through.  Why,  then,  be  jealous  ?  The 
whole  world  is  as  open  to  you  as  to  the  6  New  York 
Herald.' 

Where  is  the  greatness  of  the  deed  ?  The  traveller 
whom  I  sought  was  not  lost.  He  was  alive.  Had  he 
been  dead,  and  his  papers  scattered  among  the  tribes, 
and  I  had  recovered  every  scrap  of  paper  and  every 
item  of  his  discoveries,  as  well  as  his  bones,  and 
delivered  them  to  whom  they  were  of  value — that  had 
been  great.  What  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  accom- 
plish was  not  so  great  as  it  was  meritorious.  I  found 
him  ailing,  and  destitute  ;  by  my  mere  presence  I  cheered 
him — with  my  goods  I  relieved  him. 

Is  the  fact  that  I  cheered  and  relieved  him  a  source 
of  annoyance  to  you  ?  Ah,  gentlemen,  would  you  not 
have  rendered  to  him  this  needful  service  in  like 
manner  ?  If  you  witnessed  a  child  fall  into  the  gutter, 
would  you  not  stretch  forth  a  hand  to  lift  him  up  ?  If 
you  witnessed  honest  penury,  would  you  not  give 
the  wherewithal  to  relieve  it  ?  If  you  were  in  presence 
of  weakness,  would  you  not  assist  it  with  a  portion 
of  your  strength?  If  you  saw  suffering,  would  you 
not  endeavor  to  alleviate  it  ? 

Well,  then,  how  did  you  reward  me  for  doing  what 
you  would  have  done  yourselves  in  a  like  case  ?  Some 
of  you  first  doubted  the  truth  of  my  narrative;  then 
suspected  that  the  letters  I  produced  as  coming  from 
him  were  forgeries ;  then  accused  me  of  sensation- 
alism ;  then  quibbled  at  the  facts  I  published,  and 
snarled  at  me  as  if  I  had  committed  a  crime.  With  a 
simple  tale — unvarnished,  plain,  clear,  literal  truth — you 
could  find  fault !    What  weakness !    What  puerility  ! 


VALEDICTORY. 


683 


But,  believe  ne  or  not,  Editors  and  Critics,  what  is 
related  in  this  book  has  transpired  even  so,  to  the  best 
of  my  knowledge  and  belief. 

But  what  have  you  to  say  for  yourselves,  gentle- 
men geographers?  Think  you  to  slay  me  with  your 
unbelief,  as  you  slew  James  Bruce,  Rene  Caillie,  or 
Faul  du  Chaillu?  Think  you  to  wound  me  with 
your  unkindness,  as  you  wounded  the  illustrious 
Burton  and  the  gallant  Petherick  ?  You  caused  the 
world  to  believe  that  you  were  anxious  about  your 
great  Associate.  You  wished  men  to  believe,  during 
the  silence  that  covered  him,  that  you  craved  to  know 
what  had  become  of  him.  Without  aid  or  counsel  from 
you,  the  mission  to  find  him  was  begun,  carried  through, 
and  ended,  and  you  were  told,  "  Livingstone  is  found, 
and  relieved :  your  great  Associate  is  alive,  and  is 
about  to  prosecute  his  discoveries  with  greater  vigor 
than  ever."  What  was  your  reply  ?  u  There  is  one 
point  on  which  a  little  eclair cissement  is  desirable, 
because  a  belief  seems  to  prevail  that  Mr.  Stanley  has 
discovered  and  relieved  Doctor  Livingstone  ;  whereas, 
without  any  disparagement  to  Mr.  Stanley's  energy, 
activity,  and  loyalty,  if  there  has  been  any  discovery, 
and  relief,  it  is  Dr.  Livingstone  who  has  discovered  and 
relieved  Mr.  Stanley.  Dr.  Livingstone,  indeed,  was  in 
clover,  while  Mr.  Stanley  was  nearly  destitute.  It  is 
only  proper  that  the  relative  position  of  the  parties 
should  be  correctly  stated.  We  trust  that  the  expedition 
sent  out  by  the  Society  will  relieve  both  Dr.  Livingstone 
and  Mr.  Stanley,  and  enable  them  to  continue  the 
researches  upon  which  they  are  engaged." 

Gentlemen,  may  I  ask,  why,  if  you  believed  Dr. 
Livingstone  "  was  in  clover,"  you  sent  out  an  expedition 
to  relieve  him  ? 


684 


EOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


What  did  you  do  when  I  arrived  in  England,  after  yon 
had  had  the  letters  from  your  Associate  a  week  in  your 
hands  ?  Let  friendly  '  Punch  '  reply  :  "  The  President 
of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  who  discovered 
that  Livingstone  discovered  Stanley,  and  not  Stanley 
Livingstone,  has  at  last  discovered  that  Stanley  is  in 
England.  This  is  not  a  bad  discovery.  It  seems, 
however,  to  have  been  accomplished  only  after  a 
severe  effort.  Mr.  Stanley  hears,  on  the  6th  August, 
after  having  been  in  England  for  a  week,  that  the 
Geographical  Society  has  discovered  him."  Let  the 
'  Daily  Telegraph '  speak  :  "  A  serious  and  honest 
amende  is  due  to  Mr.  Stanley  from  the  representatives 
of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  for  the  sake  of 
which  he  (Mr.  Stanley)  has  saved  the  life  of  the  great 
traveller,  and  safely  brought  us  all  these  precious 
documents  (letters)."  I  received  a  cold  letter  of  thanks 
— a  week  after  I  arrived  in  England. 

How  else  did  you  manifest  your  feelings  after  you 
heard  the  good  news  that  your  friend  was  alive? 
Your  Vice-President,  instructed  by  your  Council,  in- 
vited me  to  attend  a  session  of  the  Geographical  Section 
of  the  British  Association.  I  complied  with  the 
request.  But,  after  I  read  my  paper,  and  defended 
Livingstone  from  rather  severe  criticisms,  your  Vice- 
President  rose,  and,  in  a  sweet,  smooth,  bland  voice, 
said,  "We  don't  want  sensational  stories,  we  want 
facts." 

What  was  the  sensational  story  I  uttered  ?  Subsequent 
to  the  reading  of  my  paper  on  6  Discoveries  at  the 
Northern  Head  of  Lake  Tanganika,'  Mr.  C.  R.  Mark- 
ham  read  a  paper  written  by  Colonel  Grant  (the  com- 
panion of  Speke),  which  was  to  the  effect  that  Living- 
stone had  conceived  a  most  extravagant  idea  when  he 


VALEDICTORY. 


685 


believed  that  he  had  found  the  Sources  of  the  Nile 
in  11°  S. ;  that  since  he  (Grant)  had  not  discovered 
traces  of  gorillas,  or  cannibals,  or  of  natives  eating 
pigs,  he  could  not  but  think  that  Livingstone  had  got 
much  further  west  than  he  supposed.  Soon  after, 
Dr.  Charles  Beke  rose  to  give  his  opinions  upon  the 
subject,  viz.,  Livingstone's  discoveries.  Beke  was 
certain  Livingstone  had  not  discovered  the  Sources 
of  the  Nile.  The  most  important  objection  to  this 
theory  of  the  Lualaba  being  the  Nile  arose  from  Dr. 
Schweinfurth's  explorations.  This  eminent  botanist 
had  discovered  the  Uielle,  a  large  river  flowing  from 
east  to  west,  in  lat.  3°  45',  and  it  appeared  that  that 
river  rose  in  the  Blue  Mountains,  to  the  west  of 
Albert  N'Yanza,  and  completely  cut  off  the  basin  of 
<the  Nile.  Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  after  a  complimentary 
reference  to  myself,  said  that  he  had  strong  misgivings 
as  to  whether  Livingstone  was  upon  the  Nile  basin,  and 
that  he  believed  the  Lualaba  terminated  in  some  grand 
central  lake,  the  discovery  of  which  he  sincerely  hoped 
would  crown  Livingstone's  labors. 

Now  let  us  analyse  the  motives  which  underlie  these 
adverse  opinions ;  we  shall  then  know  what  value  to 
place  on  them.  Colonel  Grant  was  the  companion  of 
Speke  in  his  famous  march  to  Gondokoro  from  Zanzibar, 
and  he  believes  implicitly  that  Speke  discovered 
the  Nile  source  in  the  river  issuing  from  the  Victoria 
N'Yanza,  and  running  north-west  to  a  lake,  a  corner  of 
which  Sir  Samuel  Baker  subsequently  discovered.  As 
a  friend  of  Speke's,  and  as  his  companion  during  the 
expedition,  the  gallant  gentleman  dislikes  to  hear  any 
other  person  claiming  to  have  discovered  another  Nile 
source.  It  is  a  piece  of  chivalrous  friendship  on  his 
part,  I  will  admit ;  but  what  does  Colonel  Grant  know 


HOW  1  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


personally  about  Speke's  source  of  the  Nile  ?  Let  Speke 
himself  testify  :  "  I  arranged  that  Grant  should  go  to 
Kamrasi's  direct,  with  the  property,  cattle,  and  women, 
taking  my  letters  and  a  map  for  immediate  despatch  to 
Petherick,  at  Gani,  whilst  I  should  go  up  the  river  to 
its  source  or  exit  from  the  lake,  and  come  down  again, 
navigating  as  far  back  as  practicable." 

This  is  evidence  to  prove  that,  personally,  Grant  never 
saw  the  river  issuing  out  of  the  Victoria  N'  Yanza.  With 
the  utmost  good  faith  and  blissful  innocence  he  struck  off 
overland  about  sixty  miles  to  Kamrasi's,  whither  he  went 
like  an  ordinary  messenger  to  convey  Speke's  despatches, 
and  while  he  is  gone  Speke  discovers  the  "  Ripon  Falls," 
and  then  marches  after  Grant  to  Unyoro.  The  defence  of 
Speke  is  chivalry  par  excellence  ;  but  it  is  not  geography. 
Never  was  such  a  costly  expedition  so  barren  of  results 
as  this  of  Speke  and  Grant.  From  merely  having  seen 
a  southern  and  a  northern  point  of  some  lake,  Speke 
has  sketched  a  large  body  of  water  covering  an  area  of 
over  40,000  square  miles. 

Because  Grant  saw  neither  gorillas,  nor  cannibals,  nor 
people  eating  pigs,  he  fancies  that  Livingstone  has  been 
much  further  west  than  he  thought  he  was.  This  is  absurd. 
I  myself  saw  the  cannibals  of  Ubembe  and  Usansi,  and 
heard  of  the  cannibals  of  Manyuema  from  all  the  Arabs 
at  Ujiji.  Baker  heard  of  cannibals  two  hundred  miles 
west  of  Gondokoro.  Burton  and  Speke  saw  the  can- 
nibals of  Ubembe.  But  Livingstone  was  4°  of  longitude 
further  west  than  the  western  shore  of  the  Tanganika. 
What  becomes  now  of  Grant's  objections  ?  As  for  tribes 
"  eating  pigs,"  almost  ever}7  tribe  throughout  Africa 
eats  the  flesh  of  wild  boar.  I  have  never  heard  of  tribes 
keeping  tame  pigs ;  but  Livingstone  has  seen  them,  and 
there  is  every  good  reason  to  believe  that  the  Manyuema 


VALEDICTORY. 


687 


are  a  superior  tribe  to  any  we  meet  east,  near  the 
equator. 

Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  the  President  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society,  is  an  ardent  supporter  of  the 
theory  that  all  fresh-water  lakes  must  have  an  outlet ; 
yet,  at  the  same  time,  he  thinks  the  great  River  Lualaba 
terminates  in  a  marsh,  or  a  fresh-water  lake,  which  has 
no  outlet.  Is  not  Sir  Henry  thus  a  little  inconsistent  ? 
If  all  fresh- water  lakes  must  naturally  have  an  effluence, 
why  should  the  "  great  inland  lake,"  which  is  supposed 
to  receive  the  Lualaba,  have  no  effluence  ? 

Yet,  for  the  defence  of  Livingstone  after  this  style, 
Mr.  F.  Galton,  the  President  of  the  Geographical 
Section  of  the  British  Association,  with  remarkable 
suavity,  charged  me  with  being  a  sensationalist. 

Why  ?  Livingstone  started  to  discover  the  Ngami, 
held  on  his  way  dauntlessly,  and  his  efforts  were 
crowned  with  its  discovery.  Francis  Galton  undertook 
to  discover  the  Lake  Ngami.  How  he  succeeded,  let 
his  companion,  Andersson,  relate  (Andersson's  4  Lake 
Ngami,'  page  238):  "I  must  confess  that  on  first  per- 
using my  friend's  (Galton's)  narrative,  I  was  somewhat 
startled  on  coming  upon  his  pleasant  assertion  that  he 
did  not  much  care  about  reaching  the  Lake  Ngami.  It 
is  true  that,  when  landing  at  Walfisch  Bay,  we  had  but 
little  hope  of  arriving  there ;  but  at  least  for  my  own 
part,  I  had  always  conceived  the  great  goal  of  our 
journey  to  be  precisely  the  Ngami."  Again,  see  page 
251 :  "Galton  appeared  delighted  with  the  prospect  ot 
soon  returning  to  civilized  life.  Though  he  had  proved 
himself  to  be  capable  of  enduring  hardships  and  fatigue 
as  well  as  any  of  us,  it  was  evident  that  he  had  had 
enough  of  it."  Page  240:  "  Our  failure  (Galton  and 
Andersson's)  in  not  reaching  the  Lake  Ngami  deeply 


688 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


mortified  me."  Page  252:  "  Not  long  subsequently 
to  his  return,  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  I  was 
happy  to  learn,  bestowed  on  him  their  gold  medal,  as  a 
reward  for  his  services  in  the  cause  of  science." 

I  cannot  close  this  book  without  saying  one  word  for 
the  young  gentlemen  connected  with  the  English 
"  Livingstone  Search  and  Relief  Expedition."  I  must 
confess  my  utter  inability  to  perceive  what  just  grounds 
the  Council  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  have  to 
condemn  them  for  returning.  The  money  which 
supplied  their  outfit  and  stores  was  subscribed  by 
the  British  public  only  for  the  relief  of  Dr.  David 
Livingstone,  at  a  time  when  they  were  informed  that 
my  Expedition  had  failed  ;  the  advertisement  which  the 
Council  put  in  the  public  journals  was  with  the  view  of 
obtaining  volunteer  commanders  to  take  the  relief  up  to 
Dr.  Livingstone.  Messrs.  Dawson,  Henn,  and  Living- 
stone were  those  who  were  charged  with  that  duty.  At 
a  meeting  of  the  Society,  Lieut.  Dawson  publicly  an- 
nounced that,  since  the  eyes  of  the  British  public  were 
on  him,  the  knowledge  of  that  fact  was  all  the  more 
a  stimulus  to  him  to  endeavor  to  clear  up  the  mystery 
attending  Livingstone's  fate,  or  to  find  out  his  where- 
abouts. These  young  gentlemen  departed  from  Eng- 
land for  Zanzibar  with  the  view  of  executing  faithfully 
the  instructions  for  the  search  and  relief  of  Dr.  Living- 
stone. When  the  commander  arrived  at  Bagamoyo, 
the  initial  point  on  his  line  of  route,  he  heard  that  Dr. 
Livingstone  was  found  and  relieved,  and  he  hastened  back 
to  Zanzibar  to  consult  with  the  British  Consul,  as  he 
was  commanded  to  do ;  who  advised  him  that,  under 
the  circumstances,  it  was  useless  for  him  to  continue  the 
mission  :  he  heard  also  through  the  same  medium,  cor- 
roborated by  a  certain  postscript  in  a  certain  Blue  Book, 


VALEDICTORY. 


68'J 


that  Dr.  Livingstone  was  inimical  to  the  geographers  at 
home.  Whereupon  the  commander  (Lieut.  Dawson) 
resigned,  because  he  had  been  led  to  believe  that  his 
presence  would  be  distasteful  to  Dr.  Livingstone. 
Lieut.  Henn  next  undertook  to  guide  the  relief  party ; 
but  just  as  he  arrived  at  the  initial  point,  I  appeared 
upon  the  field  in  person,  and  informed  him,  in  reply  to 
questions  as  to  whether  Dr.  Livingstone  was  in  need  of 
supplies,  that  the  traveller  had  all  the  supplies  he 
required,  except  a  few  luxuries,  and  fifty  good 
freemen,  according  to  a  list  which  I  produced  for  his 
examination.  He  also  returned  to  Zanzibar,  consulted 
with  his  friend  Dr.  Kirk,  and  resigned  the  command  to 
Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone.  Lastly,  this  gentleman,  who 
is  a  son  of  the  traveller,  undertook  to  lead  a  relief 
party  to  his  father.  But  this  young  gentleman  was 
beginning  to  suffer  from  a  severe  malady,  which  in  the 
opinion  of  his  father's  friend  Dr.  Kirk  would  totally 
incapacitate  him  from  undertaking  such  a  journey. 
He  therefore,  though  with  great  reluctance,  formally 
resigned. 

In  a  spirit  of  candor  and  fair  play,  let  us  see  who  is 
responsible  for  the  withdrawal  and  return  of  the  English 
search  party.  In  my  humble  opinion,  it  is  not  Lieut. 
Dawson,  nor  any  of  his  companions.  They  were  told 
to  go  and  relieve  Livingstone,  but  to  consult  with 
Dr.  Kirk.  If  Dr.  Kirk  advised  the  party  not  to  go 
on,  because  he  thought  Dr.  Livingstone  would  dislike 
their  presence,  the  young  gentlemen,  in  my  opinion, 
did  perfectly  right  in  returning ;  because  he,  as  chosen 
umpire  of  their  fortunes,  had  a  right  to  advise  them 
to  return,  if,  in  his  opinion,  the  fact  of  their  presence 
in  Unyanyembe  would  be  objectionable  to  Dr.  Living- 
stone.    But  I  disagree  with  Dr.  Kirk,  if  he  opines  that 

2  Y 


690 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


it  would  be  objectionable.  I  know  Dr.  Livingstone 
would  have  welcomed  them  if  the  young  men  came 
to  do  him  a  service,  and  that,  so  far  as  he  was 
concerned,  they  might  pick  up  the  "  threads  of 
his  work."  I  agree  with  him,  though,  that  their 
presence  was  unnecessary,  their  relief  not  required.  I 
differ  also  with  Dr.  Kirk,  that  Dr.  Livingstone  has  had 
a  quarrel  with  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  or  is 
inimical  to  its  members  in  any  way.  During  the  four 
months  I  lived  with  him,  I  never  heard  him  utter 
a  word  against  the  Royal  Geographical  Society. 
Almost  all  his  personal  friends  are  members  of  this 
same  Society. 

But  the  real  and  prime  cause  of  the  collapse  of  the 
expedition  was  the  omission  on  the  part  of  the  Council 
to  instruct  the  commander,  Lieut.  Dawson,  what  to  do, 
in  the  event  of  meeting  with  me  with  Dr.  Livingstone's 
despatches  and  letters,  and  receiving  the  assurance 
that  he  was  well  and  amply  supplied  with  stores.  Had 
they  officially  admitted  that  it  was  possible  the 
American  Expedition  had  already  succeeded  on  its 
errand  of  mercy  and  charity,  and  had  prepared  the 
young  men  for  this  contingency,  the  Council  had  now  no 
need  to  charge  Lieut.  Dawson  or  his  companions  with 
disloyalty  or  impotence,  nor  Lieut.  Dawson  and  his 
gallant  companions  to  feel  regret  that  they  voluntarily 
offered  their  fortunes  and  their  lives  in  the  service  of 
the  Society.  Since  the  Council  omitted  this  most 
important  article  of  instructions,  the  members  of  the 
Council  themselves,  and  they  alone,  are  responsible 
for  the  collapse  of  the  English  Search  and  Relief  Ex- 
pedition. 

And  now,  my  dear  reader,  I  must  close.  I  have 
bidden  a  farewell  to  the  Wagogo,  with  their  wild 


POSTSCRIPT. 


691 


effrontery  ;  to  Mionvu,  chief  of  tribute-takers  and  black- 
mailers ;  to  the  noisy  clatter  of  the  Wavinza  ;  to  the 
inhospitable  Warundi ;  to  the  Arab  slave-traders  and 
half-castes  ;  to  all  fevers,  remittent  and  intermittent ; 
to  Makata  swamps  and  crocodiles;  to  brackish  waters 
and  howling  plains;  to  my  own  dusky  friends  and 
faithful  followers  ;  to  the  Hero-traveller  and  Christian 
gentleman,  Livingstone  ;  and  to  you,  Critics,  and  all 
friends  and  enemies — one  and  all — I  bid  you  farewell ! 


POSTSCRIPT. 

I  wish  to  say  that  in  the  course  of  this  book  I  have 
written  some  rough  things  respecting  certain  geographers 
and  others.  If,  in  so  doing,  I  have  touched  tl  e 
feelings  of  any  individual,  I  regret  it.  My  apology  is, 
that  what  I  have  written  is  the  outcome  of  my  feelings 
at  the  time  I  was  writing ;  I  am  a  traveller  and  a 
journalist,  more  accustomed  to  rapid  writing  than  to 
polished  diction,  but  I  have  preferred  to  let  these  thoughts 
and  impressions  stand  as  they  are,  and  for  what  they 
are  worth,  rather  than  have  them  edited  into  a  style 
which  might  have  been  infinitely  better  in  a  literary 
point  of  view,  but  which  would  not  have  been  mine. 

At  the  very  last  moment,  and  when  these  sheets  had 
nearly  all  been  printed  off,  I  was  not  less  gratified  than 
I  confess  I  was  surprised  to  receive  an  invitation  to 
dine  with  the  members  of  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society.  Somehow,  ever  since,  and  indeed  almost 
before,  my  landing  in  England,  the  impression  had 
become  fixed  in  my  mind  that  the  humble  service 
which  I  have  been  providentially  permitted  to  render 


692 


HOW  I  FOUND  LIVINGSTONE. 


to  geographical  science  in  finding  out  and  in  rescuing 
the  great  Explorer,  and  in  bringing  to  England  the 
results  of  his  many  years  of  toil,  was  a  performance 
not  welcome  to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society.  That 
impression  may  have  given  a  tone  of  bitterness  to  some 
of  the  remarks  in  my  book ;  with  all  candour,  I  am  now 
willing  to  admit,  that  that  impression  was  unfounded. 
Great  bodies  move  slowly :  I  was  impatient ;  and, 
doubtless,  I  was  wrong  in  my  hopes  and  anticipations 
that  the  story  I  had  to  tell  would  be  received  at  once 
without  hesitation  and  without  doubt  or  cavil.  I  had 
thought  that  for  the  sake  of  my  story  I  should  have 
been  received  at  once  by  the  Royal  Geographical 
Society,  but  I  had  not  weighed  the  difficulties  which 
necessarily  surround  the  movements  of  so  august  and 
scientific  a  body.  The  mills  of  the  gods  are  said  to 
grind  slowly  but  surely;  in  like  manner  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society  discovered  slowly  but  surely  that 
I  was  not  a  charlatan,  and  that  I  had  done  what  I  said 
I  had  done,  and  then  they  extended  to  me  the  right 
hand  of  fellowship  with  a  warmth  and  generosity  which 
I  shall  never  forget.  I  beg  now  to  assure  the  members 
of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  that  their  recognition 
of  my  poor  services  is  not  the  less  welcome  to  me 
because  it  comes  somewhat  late.  Especially  do  I  thank 
Sir  Henry  Rawlinson,  not  only  for  the  kind  and 
generous  words  he  spoke  of  myself,  but  also  for  the 
noble  and  handsome  manner  in  which  he  withdrew  a 
remark  he  once  hastily  made  before  he  knew  me,  and 
when  he  was  unaware  of  certain  facts  which  have  since 
come  to  light.  I  will  only  add  that  next  to  the  honor 
which  Her  Majesty  the  Queen  of  England  has  done 
me  I  shall  ever  treasure  the  medal  of  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society, 


APPENDIX. 


The  foJca^g  '.r^eresting  abstracts,  taken  from  the  Royal  Geo- 
graphical Society's  Proceedings,  are  published  with  the  permission  of 
Mr.  Bates,  Permanent  Secretary,  R.G.S. : 

The  President  read  to  the  meeting  the  following  official  letter,  which  he 
had  received  from  Lord  Clarendon,  Secretary  of  State-  for  Foreign  Affairs,  in 
reply  to  his  petition  urging  upon  the  Government  to  grant  aid  to  Dr.  Living- 
stone. He  was  sure  they  would  all  unite  with  him  in  returning  the  grateful 
thanks  of  the  Society  to  Lord  Clarendon  and  her  Majesty's  Government  for 
the  communication. 

"  Foreign  Office,  May  19,  1870. 
"  Sir, — I  have  lost  no  time  in  submitting  to  my  colleagues  your  observa- 
tions upon  the  position  in  which  Dr.  Livingstone  is  placed  in  consequence  of 
his  want  of  money,  and  her  Majesty's  Government  have  not  failed  to  consider 
all  you  have  urged  in  favour  ot  a  further  grant  to  the  distinguished  traveller, 
viz.,  that  he  has  struggled  without  aid  or  communication  with  England  for  the 
last  three  years  ;  that,  by  the  last  accounts,  he  had  reached  a  point  from  which 
he  can  neither  advance  nor  retreat  without  supplies  ;  and  that  the  money 
granted  to  him  at  his  departure  being  exhausted,  further  funds  are  earnestly 
required  to  provide  a  fresh  equipment  and  the  means  of  conveying  it  into  the 
interior. 

*  I  have  now  great  pleasure  in  informing  you  that  her  Majesty's  Govern- 
ment are  prepared  to  authorise  a  grant  of  £1000  on  account  of  Dr.  Living- 
stone's expedition,  in  the  earnest  hope  that  the  sum  may  be  the  means  of 
promoting  his  return  in  safety  to  this  country. 

"  I  am,  Sir,  your  obedient  humble  servant, 

"Clare.ndon." 

"Sir  R.  I.  Murcuison,  Dart." 

On  the  23rd  of  May,  1870,  Sir  E.  Murchison  speaks  as  follows  uf  hi* 
friend  Dr.  Livingstone : 

Throughout  the  past  year  we  have  been  kept  in  a  state  of  anxious  suspense 
respecting  the  position  of  our  great  traveller  Livingstone,  and  I  grieve  to  close 
this  address  without  being  able  to  offer  some  encouraging  sentences  on  the 
prospect  of  speedily  welcoming  him  home.    At  the  same  time,  there  is  no 


694 


APPENDIX. 


cause  for  despondency  as  to  his  life  and  safety.  We  know  that  he  has  been 
for  some  time  at  Ujiji  on  the  Lake  Tanganyika,  whence  he  wrote  home  on  the 
30th  of  May  last,  though  unable  to  make  any  movement  for  want  of  carriers 
and  supplies.  These  were,  indeed,  forwarded  to  him  by  Dr.  Kirk  from  Zan- 
zibar, when,  alas  !  an  outbreak  of  cholera  stopped  and  paralysed  the  relieving 
party.  Recent  intelligence,  however,  has  reached  the  Foreign  Office  to  the 
effect  that  the  pestilence  had  subsided  to  so  great  an  extent  that  we  may 
presume  the  communication  between  the  coast  and  Ujiji  has  before  now  been 
re-opened. 

The  work  which  still  lies  before  Livingstone  lias  been  often  adverted  to, 
and  it  is  hoped  that  he  will  live  to  advance  to  the  north  end  of  the  Tanganyika, 
and  there  ascertain  if  its  waters  flow  into  the  Albert  Nyanza  of  Baker.  If  the 
junction  should  be  proved  we  may  indulge  the  thought  that,  informed  as 
Livingstone  must  now  be  of  the  actual  carrying  out  of  the  great  project  of 
Sir  Samuel  Baker,  he  may  endeavour  to  meet  his  great  contemporary.  The 
progress  of  the  great  Egyptian  expedition  of  Baker  having  been  delayed  in  its 
outset,  we  know  that  it  only  left  Khartoum  to  ascend  the  White  Nile  in 
February.  After  reaching  Gondokoro,  as  was  expected  to  be  the  case,  in  the 
first  days  of  March,  some  time  must  necessarily  elapse  in  establishing  a  factory 
above  the  upper  rapids  and  beyond  the  tributary  Asua,  where  the  steam 
vessels  are  to  be  put  together  before  they  are  launched  on  the  Nile  water,  on 
which  they  are  to  pass  to  the  great  lake  Albert  Nyanza.  As  soon,  however, 
as  a  steamer  is  on  that  lake  we  may  be  assured  that  Baker,  with  his  well- 
known  energy  and  promptitude,  will  lose  not  a  moment  in  the  endeavour  to 
reach  its  southern  end,  in  the  expectation  of  there  giving  hand  and  help  to 
Livingstone.  Let  us  therefore  cherish  this  cheering  hope,  which  would  indeed 
be  the  most  happy  consummation  our  hearts  can  desire. 

The  British  public  will  be  much  better  informed  than  they  have  been  on 
this  subject  when  they  examine  a  recent  small  work  by  Mr.  Keith  Johnston, 
jun.  In  this  pamphlet  the  author  has  given  a  succinct  history  of  all  the 
explorations  in  South  Africa,  and  has  also  put  together  from  the  best  autho- 
rities (Petermann  and  others)  a  map  which  shows  clearly  to  what  extent  the 
rivers  which  flow  from  the  southern  highlands,  on  the  south  and  S.S.W.  of  Lake 
Tanganyika,  are  for  the  most  part  independent  of  that  lake,  and  may  prove  to 
be  tributaries  of  the  Congo.  On  the  other  hand,  the  streams  which  enter  the 
Lake  Tanganyika  through  the  Lake  Liemba  of  Livingstone,  are  probably  the 
ultimate  sources  of  the  Nile  itself,  while  the  Kasai  and  other  streams 
which  feed  the  lakes  Bangweolo  and  Moero  may  be  found  to  issue  in  the 
Congo. 

If  this  last  hypothesis  should  prove  to  be  true,  the  waters  which  Living- 
stone has  been  the  first  to  explore  will  be  found  to  be  the  sources  both  of  the 
Nile  and  the  Congo.  As  respects  the  Nile,  however,  my  sagacious  friend 
must  feel  that  until  he  proves  that  some  of  these  waters  of  the  Tanganyika 
flow  into  the  Albert  Nyanza,  the  problem  in  regard  to  the  Nile  remains 
unsolved. 

In  the  meantime  the  Nile  hypothesis  of  Mr.  Findlay  and  others  (that  the 
Lake  Tanganyika  will  be  found  to  unite  with  the  Albert  Nyanza)  is,  accord- 
ing to  the  now  estimated  relative  altitudes  of  these  southern  waters,  the 
most  probable.    God  grant  that  the  illustrious  Livingstone  may  demonstrate 


APPENDIX. 


695 


this  to  bo  the  case,  and  that  we  shall  soon  see  him  at  home  as  the  dis- 
coverer of  the  ultimate  sources  of  both  the  Nile  and  the  Congo. 

On  this  important  and  exciting  subject  it  is  gratifying  to  state  that  our 
medallist,  Dr.  Petermann,  has  laid  down,  on  a  general  map  of  South  Africa 
in  the  last  number  of  his  *  Mittheilungen,'  that  which  he  terms  a  chronological 
sketch  of  all  Livingstone's  wonderful  and  arduous  travels  from  1841  to  1869. 
In  respect  to  the  tributaries  of  the  Congo,  the  map  of  Petermann  differs  hypo- 
thetically  from  that  of  Mr.  Keith  Johnston,  jun.,  inasmuch  as  he  indicates 
that  the  waters  of  the  Bangweolo,  Moero,  and  Ulenge  lakes  probably  point 
to  north  and  by  east ;  and  if  this  should  prove  to  be  the  case  they  also  will 
fall  into  the  great  Albert  Nyanza  of  Baker. 

In  concluding  the  consideration  of  this  absorbing  topic,  I  rejoice  to  be 
euabled  to  state,  that  in  consequence  of  my  representing  to  Lord  Clarendon 
the  isolated  position  of  Livingstone  at  Ujiji,  where  he  was  without  carriers  or 
supplies,  whilst  he  was,  comparatively,  near  his  ultimatum,  the  north  end  of 
the  Lake  Tanganyika,  her  Majesty's  Government  have  kindly  afforded  the 
means  whereby  the  great  traveller  may  be  effectively  relieved  before  he  returns 
to  his  admiring  country. 

In  the  address  of  the  President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
it  is  stated  that  great  credit  is  to  be  assigned  to  Dr.  Beke,  Mr.  Arrow- 
smith,  and  Mr.  Findlay,  for  their  support  on  theoretical  grounds  of 
the  great  southerly  extent  of  the  Nile  basin,  should  the  great  modern 
problem  of  the  southern  watershed  of  the  Nile  be  solved. 

Credit  for  theory !  Then,  now  that  Sir  B.  Murchison,  the  consistent 
friend  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  is  dead,  and  Dr.  Beke  has  retracted  his 
support  of  the  above  theory,  what  credit  shall  be  assigned  to  Dr.  Beke 
by  Sir  H.  Rawlinson  for  the  theoretical  support  this  gentleman  gives 
to  the  same  watershed  being,  not  that  of  the  Nile,  but  the  Congo's? 

At  the  14th  Meeting  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  held 
13th  of  June,  1870,  it  will  be  observed  that  the  President  of  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  states  that  no  expedition  for  the  search  oi 
Livingstone  had  ever  been  intended.  My  orders  wore  given  me  to  go 
after  Livingstone  in  October,  1869.  The  Royal  Geographical  Society 
then  should  not  charge  me  with  doing  that  which  they  intended  to  do, 
and  should  not  feel  anger  at  my  having  found  him,  since  I  clashed 
not  with  their  duties. 

The  President,  before  proceeding  to  the  consideration  of  the  pnpers  that 
were  to  be  read,  explained  to  the  meeting;  the  nature  of  the  succour  that 
had,  to  the  great  credit  of  the  Earl  of  Clarendon  and  her  Majesty's  Govern- 
ment, been  sent  to  Dr.  Livingstone.  There  had  been  much  misapprehen- 
sion on  the  matter,  judging  from  the  numerous  applications  he  had  received 
from  active  young  men  anxious  to  go  in  search  of  Dr.  Livingstone,  it  being 
supposed  that  there  was  an  expedition  about  to  start  for  that  purpose  from 
this  country.  No  such  expedition  had,  however,  been  intended.  Dr.  Living- 
stone had  been  more  than  three  years  and  a  half  in  the  heart  of  Africa  without 


696 


APPENDIX. 


a  single  European  attendant.  He  (the  President)  was  not  sure  that  the  sight 
of  an  uuacclimatised  young  gentleman  sent  out  from  England  would  not  pro- 
duce a  very  bad  effect  upon  the  Doctor,  because,  in  addition  to  his  other  labours, 
he  would  have  to  take  care  of  the  new  arrival.  He  had  therefore  to  announce 
that  the  £1000  which  the  Government  had  given  will  be  sent  by  Mr.  Churchill, 
the  Consul  of  Zanzibar,  who  happens,  accidentally,  to  be  in  this  country,  and 
who  is  going  out  immediately.  He  will  instruct  Dr.  Kirk  to  fit  out  a  similar 
expedition  to  that  which  started  last  year,  but  which  was  impeded  by  an  attack 
of  cholera.  The  epidemic  has  greatly  subsided,  and  the  only  difficulty  now  is 
to  get  to  Ujiji,  where  Dr.  Livingstone  was  when  last  heard  of,  unable  to  move 
forwards  or  backwards  for  want  of  carriers  and  supplies.  It  will  take  two 
months  or  more  for  these  supplies  to  reach  Ujiji  from  Zanzibar,  therefore 
all  anxiety  must  be  put  aside  for  months  to  come.  In  about  seven  or  eight 
months  good  news  might  be  expected,  and  soon  after  that  he  (the  President) 
hoped  we  might  see  our  friend  again  in  his  native  country. 

Letter  from  Mr.  Churchill,  Consul  at  Zanzibar,  concerning 
Dr.  Livingstone. 

"  Zanzibar,  November  18, 1870. 

"My  Lord, — After  a  vast  amount  of  delay,  that  will  appear  unnecessary 
to  those  who  are  not  acquainted  with  the  country,  I  have  succeeded  in  send- 
ing off  to  Dr.  Livingstone  a  reinforcement  of  seven  men,  who  have  engaged  to 
place  themselves  at  the  disposal  of  the  Doctor,  as  porters,  boatmen,  &c,  and 
a  quantity  of  beads,  clothes,  and  provisions  for  his  use.  He  will  receive,  by 
the  same  opportunity,  the  letters  and  papers  confided  to  me  by  Lord  Clarendon 
and  the  Geographical  Society,  together  with  some  wearing  apparel  sent  by  the 
Doctor's  relatives.  I  am  in  hopes  that  these  will  reach  Ujiji  in  the  month  of 
February,  but  nothing  certain  can  be  said  about  it.  In  a  future  despatch  I 
will  send  an  account  of  the  expenditure  attending  this  expedition.  News 
was  received  about  a  month  ago  of  the  arrival  at  Unyanyembe,  in  June  last, 
of  men  and  supplies  sent  up  in  October  1869  by  Dr.  Kirk ;  seven  of  the  men 
had  died  of  cholera,  and  the  remainder,  having  consumed  the  provisions  for- 
warded for  them,  had,  with  the  advice  of  the  Governor  of  Unyanyembe,  drawn 
upon  the  supplies  ot  which  they  were  the  bearers  for  their  subsistence.  This, 
at  first  sight,  appears  preposterous  ;  but  on  consideration  it  may  be  explained 
by  the  fact  that,  without  supplies  from  some  source  or  other,  the  progress  of 
the  caravan  would  have  been  stopped,  and,  in  the  absence  of  an  authority  to 
that  effect  from  the  Sultan,  the  Governor  of  Unyanyembe  refused  to  grant  th 
necessary  subsistence-money. 

"The  latest  accounts  from  the  interior  state  that  Dr.  Livingstone,  after 
visiting  a  place  called  Manime  (Manyuema),  had  returned  to  Ujiji.". 

The  Chairman,  in  continuation,  said  the  letter  from  Dr.  Kirk,  mentioned  in 
Sir  Roderick  Murchison's  letter  to  the  Times,  was  three  weeks  later  in  date 
than  that  of  Mr.  Churchill,  and  as  he  (Dr.  Kirk)  did  not  state  that  Dr.  Living- 
stone had  really  arrived  at  Ujiji,  although  deriving  his  information  from  the 
same  source  as  Mr.  Churchill,  it  would  be  seen  that  the  latter  had  announced 
the  event,  as  it  were,  by  anticipation.  Dr.  Kirk  merely  said  that  a  letter 
written  in  Arabic  had  been  received  from  the  Chief  of  Unyanyembe,  dated 
July,  1870,  and  stating  that  Livingstone  was  expected  to  arrive  in  Ujiji  at  the 
same  time  as  the  men  and  stores  which  were  then  on  their  way  to  the  same 


APPENDIX. 


place.  It  also  stated  that  the  traveller  had  been  to  a  distant  country  called 
Manime.  To  understand  the  importance  of  this  communication  it  was  neces- 
sary to  refer  to  the  last  letter  written  home  by  Dr.  Livingstone  himself.  It 
was  one  addressed  to  Dr.  Kirk  from  Ujiji,  and  dated  the  30th  of  May,  1869. 
In  it  Livingstone  said,  "  As  to  the  work  to  be  done  by  me,  it  is  only  to  con- 
nect the  sources  which  I  have  discovered,  from  500  to  700  miles  south  of 
Speke  and  Baker's,  with  their  Nile.  The  volume  of  water  which  flows  north 
from  lat.  12°  S.  is  so  large,  I  suspect  that  I  have  been  working  at  the  sources 
of  the  Congo  as  well  as  those  of  the  Nile.  I  have  to  go  down  the  eastern  line 
of  drainage  to  Baker's  turning-point.  Tanganyika,  NyigeChowambe  (Baker's?) 
are  one  water,  and  the  head  of  it  is  300  miles  south  of  this.  The  outflow  of 
this,  whether  to  Congo  or  Nile,  I  have  to  ascertain.  The  people  west  of  this, 
called  Manyema,  are  cannibals,  if  Arabs  speak  truly.  I  may  have  to  go  there 
first,  and  down  Tanganyika,  if  I  come  out  uneaten,  and  find  my  new  squad 
from  Zanzibar." 

The  following  is  an  important  letter  from  Dr.  Kirk,  written  a  day 
or  bo  after  his  return  from  a  hunting  excursion  he  made  to  Kikoka, 
the  first  camp  beyond  the  Kingani : 

"  Zanzibar,  18th  February,  1871. 
14  My  Loud, — I  have  the  honour  to  report  that,  information  having  reached 
me,  through  a  native,  that  the  men  sent  off  by  Mr.  Churchill  with  stores  for 
Dr.  Livingstone,  as  reported  in  his  despatch  of  the  18th  of  November,  1870,  were 
still  at  Bagamoyo,  a  coast  town  on  the  opposite  main-land,  and  had  not  taken 
any  steps  to  procure  porters  and  proceed  on  their  journey,  I  determined,  if 
possible,  to  go  myself  and  see  them  off.  Captain  Tucker,  commanding  H.M.S. 
Columbine,  on  my  request,  kindly  offered  to  place  his  ship  at  my  disposal  for 
this  purpose. 

"On  reaching  Bagamoyo  I  found  that  the  men  referred  to  were  still  living 
in  the  village,  while  Arab  caravans  set  out  on  the  same  journey.  It  is  true 
that  porters  this  year  are  difficult  to  obtain,  few  of  the  people  of  Unyamwezi 
having  come  down  in  consequence  of  deaths  last  year  from  cholera  among 
their  friends. 

"  However,  by  using  my  influence  with  the  Arabs  I  succeeded  at  once  in 
sending  off  all  but  four  loads,  and  followed  inland  one  day's  journey  myself. 
The  remaining  four  loads  I  arranged  on  my  return  were  to  be  taken  as  far 
as  Unyanyembe  by  an  Arab  caravan,  and  thence  sent  to  Ujiji  by  Said  bin 
Salim,  the  governor. 

"  Once  fairly  off  on  the  road,  there  is  little  to  induce  these  people  to 
delay ;  whereas  at  Bagamoyo,  living  in  good  huts  among  their  own  people, 
and  thinking  that  there,  unknown,  they  might  enjoy  themselves  and  earn 
monthly  pay,  had  I  nor  gone  in  person  they  might  have  loitered  yet  several 
months. 

"  While  passing  along  the  trade  route  on  the  short  excursion  I  made  from 
Basamoyo  we  met  several  caravans  on  their  way  from  Unyamwezi,  Urori,  &c. ; 
and  by  questioning  the  natives  as  well  as  the  leaders,  found  that  no  news  had 
been  received  lately  at  Unyanyembe  from  Ujiji,  and  nothing  known  of  Dr. 
Livingstone.  All  were  aware  that  he  had  gone  on  a  journey  from  which  he 
had  not  yet  returned  up  to  the  latest  dates. 

"  The  country  I  passed  through  after  crossing  the  River  Kingani  was  like  a 
beautiful  park  and  woodland,  full  of  all  sorts  of  big  game,  including  the 
pivnfTe,  eland,  zebra,  harte-beeste,  wild-beeste,  &c,  some  of  which  1  shot  not 


APPENDIX. 


more  than  twelve  miles  from  the  coast  town  of  Bagamoyo.  The  Kingani 
River  was  full  of  hippopotami,  and  on  its  banks  wild  buffaloes  were  found. 

"  Unfortunately,  wherever  the  giraffe  exists  in  numbers  this  rich  and  com- 
paratively healthy  region  is  infested  by  the  tsetse  fly,  so  dangerous  to  cattle 

ind  horses. 

"  On  my  return  to  Bagamoyo  I  devoted  a  day  to  the  study  of  the  French 
mission  establishment  and  their  management  of  freed  slaves.  On  this  I  shall 
do  myself  the  honour  to  submit  a  separate  report  to  your  Lordship. 

"  Since  my  visit  four  years  ago  I  found  the  town  of  Bagamoyo  to  have 
trebled  its  extent.  Native  huts  were  fast  being  replaced  by  stone  buildings, 
and  here,  as  elsewhere  on  the  coast,  the  trade  is  rapidly  passing  into  the  hands 
Df  the  Kutchees. 

"  John  Kirk." 

"DR.  KIRK  AND  DR.  LIVINGSTONE. 
"  To  the  Editor  of  1  The  Daily  Telegraph.' 

"  68,  Portsdown  Road,  Maida  Yale,  July  25th,  1872. 

"  Sir, — I  have  read  with  great  interest  your  correspondent's  account  of  the 
interview  he  had  yesterday  at  Marseilles  with  Mr.  Stanley,  the  discoverer  of 
Dr.  Livingstone,  and  1  feel  called  upon  to  stand  by  my  friend  Dr.  Kirk.  Let 
me  begin  by  saying  that  if  there  has  been  any  neglect  at  Zanzibar  in  commu- 
nicating with  Dr.  Livingstone,  I,  as  the  political  agent  and  Her  Majesty's 
consul  there  during  the  last  five  years,  must  share  with  Dr.  Kirk  the  blame, 
as  within  that  lapse  of  time  I  am  responsible  for  what  apathy  may  have  been 
displayed  while  1  was  at  my  post — viz.,  upwards  of  two  years. 

"  During  my  first  stay  at  Zanzibar  (from  June,  1867,  to  April,  1869),  it  will 
be  remembered  that  Dr.  Livingstone  was  supposed  to  have  been  killed  ;  so 
that  very  few,  if  any,  letters  were  sent  to  Zanzibar  for  him.  I  can  vouch  for 
the  fact  that  no  letters  passed  through  my  hands  during  the  whole  of  that 
time. 

"In  compliance  with  Dr.  Livingstone's  request,  I  sent  to  Ujiji,  towards  the 
middle  of  the  year  1868,  a  certain  quantity  of  supplies  and  medicines,  but  I 
am  not  aware  that  any  private  letters  were  sent,  except  those  that  Dr.  Kirk 
and  I  wrote  to  him,  for  the  reason  that  is  mentioned  above.  On  a  previous 
occasion  Dr.  Seward  had  sent  up,  via  Kilwa,  quinine  and  stores,  which  were 
to  await  the  Doctor's  arrival  at  Ujiji.  In  both  these  expeditious  Dr.  Kirk's 
valuable  assistance  was  readily  obtained,  and  I  must  here  bear  testimony  to 
the  great  interest  that  Dr.  Kirk  always  took  in  anything  connected  with  his 
friend  Dr.  Livingstone.  On  no  occasion  did  I  ever  perceive  the  slightest 
indication  of  jealousy  on  the  part  of  Dr.  Kirk. 

"  Alter  my  departure  from  Zanzibar  in  April,  1869,  Dr.  Kirk  organised  a 
further  expedition,  consisting  of  fourteen  men  and  a  large  caravan  of  supplies, 
to  meet  the  great  traveller  at  Ujiji.  Cholera  intervened  and  delayed  this 
expedition,  and  out  of  the  fourteen  men  only  seven  reached  Unyanyembe. 
There  the  remaining  party  appear  to  have  helped  themselves  out  of  the 
supplies ;  but  for  this  Dr.  Kirk  surely  cannot  be  blamed;  and,  after  all  it  was 
better  that  they  should  have  done  this  than  have  declared  themselves  unable 
to  proceed  on  their  journey  lor  want  of  means  of  subsistence. 

"  On  my  return  to  Zanzibar  in  August,  1870,  furnished  as  I  was  with 
ample  means  by  Her  Majesty's  Government,  I  prepared  a  third  expedition, 
and  chose  seven  men  who  knew  the  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ujiji  to 
replace  those  who  were  reported  to  have  died  ;  with  instructions  to  proceed  to 
Ujiji,  and  there  to  await  Dr.  Livingstone's  arrival  ;  but  the  road  was  unsate, 
and  no  caravan  would  venture  up  country  tor  a  considerable  time  after  the 
expedition  was  organised,  so  that  it  was  detained  at  Bagamoyo  until  after  my 


APPENDIX. 


699 


departure  on  sick  leave  in  the  following  December.  This  is  the  caravan 
mentioned  by  Mr.  Stanley  as  having  left  Bagamoyo  two  days  before  Dr.  Kirk's 
visit  to  the  coast  in  the  Columbine.  With  it  went  the  letters  and  parcels  that 
I  had  taken  out  to  Zanzibar  for  Dr.  Livingstone.  Kirk  is  said  to  have  made 
shooting  the  primary  object  of  his  visit  to  Bagamoyo.  and  to  have  neglected 
the  caravan  altogether ;  but  Mr.  Stanlev's  own  statement  shows  that  the 
caravan  had  already  started  when  Kirk  reached  that  spot ;  and  surely  a  village 
of  500  inhabitants  is  not  so  large  that  he  could  not  learn  in  ten  minutes  how 
matters  stood.  If,  therefore,  he  went  out  on  a  shooting  excursion  with  the 
officers  of  the  Columbine,  he  did  so  knowing  that  the  object  <>f  his  going  to 
Bagamoyo  was  accomplished.  Mr.  Stanley's  statement  would  indeed  show 
that  the  simple  rumour  of  Dr.  Kirk's  approaching  arrival  had  had  the  good 
effect  of  putting  the  caravan  in  motion. 

"  To  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  Zanzibar,  the  statement  that  eleven 
packages  of  letters  from  home,  sent  to  Mr.  Stanley  in  the  course  of  nine 
months,  had  reached  Ujiji,  while  in  three  years  Dr.  Livingstone  had  not  been 
able  to  receive  a  single  letter,  would  certainly  appear  strange ;  but  let  me 
explain  that  in  every  likelihood  those  eleven  packages,  together  with  the  tele- 
gram, were  received  at  Zanzibar  by  the  same  mail,  and  that  they  were  sent  up 
to  Ujiji  by  the  same  messenger.  One  caravan  may  pass  through  the  country 
where  another  may  fail  to  reach  its  destination;  and  the  very  fight  that 
occurred  at  Unyanyembe,  in  which  Mr.  Stanley  was  involved,  may  have 
cieared  the  way  for  future  caravans.  But  I  have  only  to  mention  Mr.  Stanley's 
own  adventures  to  show  the  difficulties  that  sometimes  attend  caravans  on 
their  way  to  Ujiji  ;  and  if  Dr.  Livingstone,  on  the  other  hand,  did  not  get 
any  letters,  it  is  because,  as  I  have  shown,  no  letters  were  written  to  him,  his 
iriends  believing  him  to  be  dead. 

"  I  hope  Mr  Stanley  has  given  Dr.  Kirk  the  opportunity  of  justifying  him- 
self; but,  however  this  may  be,  I  have  felt  it  my  duty  to  come  forward  and 
make  known  to  the  public,  through  your  columns,  the  sympathy  and  friendly 
feeling  that  Dr.  Kirk  has  always  entertained  for  his  old  friend  and  fellow- 
traveller,  Dr.  Livingstone. 

"  T  am,  Sir, 

"  Your  obedient  humble  servant, 

"  Hv.  A.  Churchill." 

Here  is  a  letter  which  will  make  Dr.  Livingstone  smile  as  it 
makes  me  It  is  from  the  "  moral  idiot  "  Sherif,  the  half-caste  tailor, 
who  divined  on  the  Koran  that  Dr.  Livingstone  was  dead,  and  upon 
this  divination  sold  the  Doctor's  goods  for  ivory  : 

(Communicated  by  the  Foreign  Office  through  Lord  Enfiei.d.) 

"  Zanzibar,  March  10,  1871. 
"  My  Lord, — I  have  the  honour  to  forward,  in  translation,  copies  of  letters 
ust  received  from  Ujiji,  from  which  it  will  be  seen  that  up  to  five  months 
go  Dr.  Livingstone  was  at  a  place  named  Manakoso,  and  only  awaiting  the 
men  and  supplies  sent  off  by  me  last  year,  and  that  they  have  now  reached 
nim,  or  at  least  been  forwarded  from  Ujiji  to  the  place  where  he  is. 

"  Jt  being  now  time  to  close  letters  for  transmission  by  the  present  occasion, 
I  shall  not  be  able  to  make  inquiry  among  the  Arabs  acquainted  with  these 
parts  as  to  the  position  of  the  places  named,  but  which  1  suppose  are  on  the 
western  side  of  the  lake, 

"John  Kirk." 


7C/C 


APPENDIX. 


(Translation.) 
"  To  Consul  Kirk  from  Sherif  Bamikikh  bin  Ahmed. 

"  I  have  to  inform  you  that  on  the  15th  of  Shaban  (10th  November)  a 
messenger  came  from  the  people  of  Menama  with  letters  from  the  Arabs  who 
are  there,  and  one  from  the  Doctor,  and  these  letters  were  dated  the  20th 
Rejib  (loth  October). 

"  In  answer  to  my  inquiries  they  told  me  that  the  Doctor  was  well,  althoush 
he  had  been  suffering,  and  that  he  is  for  the  present  at  the  town  of  Manakoso 
with  Mohamed  bin  Gharib,  waiting  for  the  caravans,  being  helpless,  without 
means  and  with  few  followers — only  eight  men — so  that  he  cannot  move 
elsewhere  or  come  down. 

"  We  have  sent  off  twelve  of  our  men  with  American  cloth,  kaniki,  beads, 
sugar,  coffee,  salt,  two  pair  of  shoes,  shot,  powder,  and  soap,  and  a  small  bottle 
of  medicine  (quinine). 

"  All  that  he  was  in  need  of  we  have  sent  to  him,  and  I  remain  at  Ujiji 
awaiting  his  orders. 

"  Dated  20th  Shaban,  1287  (15th  November,  1870). 

"  True  translation.  John  Kirk." 

The  following  was  read : 

Sir  Roderick  Murchison  communicated  that  he  had  received  a  letter  from 
Dr.  Kirk,  dated  30th  April,  1871,  in  which  he  stated  that  although  no  one 
at  Zanzibar  had  been  to  Manemeh  (the  place  where  Dr.  Livingstone  was  last 
heard  of),  he  had  ascertained  that  it  was  about  a  month's  journey,  say  200  or 
300  miles,  west  of  Tanganyika,  and  is  a  thriving  ivory  mart. 

Dr.  Kirk  is  of  opinion  that  Livingstone  had  been  led  thither  to  examine  a 
western  lake  he  had  heard  of,  and  into  which  the  waters  from  Cazembe 
flowed,  and  to  ascertain  whether  they  go  to  the  west  and  the  Congo  or  to 
the  north  and  Nile  basin.  He  further  hopes  that  if  Livingstone  should  have 
settled  the  outflow  of  the  Tanganyika  he  will  be  satisfied,  and  leave  all  the 
rest  of  the  work  to  future  travellers,  seeing  that  he  has  been  out  upwards  of 
five  years  and  must  sorely  want  rest. 

It  is  satisfactory  to  know  that  abundant  supplies  are  waiting  for  the  Doctor 
at  Ujiji  on  his  return. 

Dr.  Kirk  adds,  that  as  the  rains  will  soon  be  over  he  can  send  any  letters 
or  parcels  to  Ujiji  in  about  a  month,  that  is,  about  the  1st  of  June. 

The  President  said  he  found  some  difficulty  in  believing  that  there  was  an 
interval  of  nearly  300  miles  between  Manakoso  and  Lake  Tanganyika.  The 
letter  received  from  Livingstone  by  the  Arabs  in  charge  of  his  stores  at  Ujiji 
was  only  twenty-five  days  in  transit.  Now  the  average  rate  of  travelling  in 
those  countries  was  only  ten  miles  a  day  ;  so  that,  judging  from  the  time 
occupied  by  the  transit  of  the  letters,  there  could  only  be  an  interval  of  250 
miles  between  Ujiji  and  Manakoso,  including  the  passage  of  the  lake.  It  was, 
moreover,  satisfactory  to  find  that  Livingstone  was  not  stationed  in  an  un- 
known cannibal  territory,  as  had  been  supposed,  but  in  a  thriving  ivory  mart, 
between  which  and  the  sea-coast  there  was  a  constant  trade  communication. " 

June  26th,  1871. — Sir  Henry  Eawlinson  in  his  Presidential  Address 
under  this  date,  said,  among  other  things  relating  to  geographical 

matters  : 


APPENDIX. 


701 


With  regard  also  to  our  other  great  African  explorer,  Dr.  Livingstone,  we 
are  still  kept  in  a  state  of  the  most  paiuful  suspense.  We  learn  by  the  last 
reports  from  Dr.  Kirk  at  Zanzibar,  dated  in  the  middle  of  August,  that  the 
Arab  merchants  with  whom  Dr.  Livingstone  had  travelled  from  the  south  up 
to  Manyemeh,  had  passed  on  from  that  place  to  Ujiji,  and  early  in  the  month 
of  June  were  daily  expected  at  Unyanyembe.  From  Livingstone  himself, 
however,  no  direct  intelligence  had  recently  reached  Zanzibar,  and  it  was  only 
by  inference  that  Dr.  Kirk  supposed  him  to  be  still  at  Manyemeh.  The 
second  batch  of  supplies  intended  for  him  had  in  the  mean  time  passed  on 
through  Unyanyembe,  en  route  to  Ujiji,  and  Dr.  Kirk  was  anxiously 
awaiting  news  of  the  arrival  of  the  American  traveller,  Mr.  Stanley,  at  that 
place.  This  gentleman,  who  is  said  to  be  of  the  true  exploring  type,  left 
Bagamoyo  on  the  coast  for  Ujiji  in  February  last,  and  intended  to  communi- 
cate with  Livingstone  before  proceeding  further  into  the  interior,  so  that  we 
must,  receive  before  long,  from  this,  if  not  from  any  other  quarter,  some  definite 
intelligence  of  our  great  travellers  present  condition  and  his  plans  for  the 
future.  'Those  who  know  Mr.  Stanley  personally  are  much  impressed  with 
his  determined  character  and  his  aptitude  for  African  travel.  His  expedition 
is  well  equipped,  and  he  enjoys  the  great  advantage  of  having  secured  the 
services  of  1  Bombay/  the  well-known  factotum  of  Speke  and  Grant.  He  is 
entirely  dependent,  I  may  add,  on  his  own  resources,  and  is  actuated  apparently 
by  a  mere  love  of  adventure  and  discovery  ;  and  I  need  hardly  say  that  if  he 
succeeds  in  restoring  Livingstone  to  us,  or  in  assisting  him  to  solve  the  great 
problem  of  the  upper  drainage  into  the  Nile  and  Congo,  he  will  be  welcomed 
by  this  Society  as  heartily  and  as  warmly  as  if  he  were  an  English  explorer 
acting  under  our  own  immediate  auspices. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  above  that  Sir  Henry  Eawlinson  was 
inclined  to  be  complimentary  when  speaking  of  me  at  that  date. 

The  next  letters  received  about  Dr.  Livingstone  and  myself  are 
dated  25th  and  22nd  of  September,  1871,  and  are  as  follows : 

"  Zanzibar,  September  25,  1871. 
"  Dear  Sir  Roderick, — You  will  see,  by  the  account  sent  to  the  Foreign 
Office,  that  difficulties  have  sprung  up  in  Unyamwezi  and  cut  off  Ujiji  from 
the  coast  ;  and  as  it  happens  no  Ujiji  news  has  been  received  for  some  time 
back,  we  may  be  a  long  time  in  getting  any  certainty  of  Dr.  Livingstone's 
movements. 

"All  I  can  say  is,  that  I  lack  reports  from  that  place  :  neither  he  nor  his 
Arab  friend  Mo  named  bin  Gharib  had  arrived ;  but  there  was  a  story,  which  I 
think  worthless,  to  the  effect  that  they  were  both  to  go  round  the  south  end 
by  way  of  Wemba. 

"  I  can  yet  get  no  correct  account  of  Manyema  :  every  one  knows  it,  but.  1 
find  no  one  who  has  been  there.  I  have  seen  people  who  have  crossed  the 
Tanganyika  from  Ujiji,  and  seen  the  Manyema  caravans  setting  out,  but  it 
seems  to  be  rather  a  new  and  special  line  of  trade. 

"  I  am  glad  that  the  Governor  of  Unyanyembe  is  to  be  removed:  he  is  the 
one  on  whom  the  war  there  is  laid,  and  if  he  had  been  killed  we  should  all 
have  been  better  satisfied. 

"  Mr.  Stanley  was  at  Unyanyembe  and  in  the  fight,  but  the  Arabs  aban- 
doned him  ;  four  of  his  men  were  killed,  but  he  escaped.  His  prospect  of 
getting  on  is  at  present  small,  but  I  really  cannot  say  where  he  desires  to  go 


702 


APPENDIX. 


to ;  he  never  disclosed  his  plans  here.  I  sent  up  letters  for  Dr.  Livingstor.6 
under  his  care,  and  put  also  the  things  (of  the  second  lot — the  first  has  reached 

Ujiji,)  for  Livingstone  into  his  hands. 

"  I  fancy  he  will  make  a  point  of  meeting  Livingstone  first ;  but  whether, 
having  seen  what  is  best  to  do,  he  will  push  on  or  come  back,  I  cannot  say. 
He  was  ill  of  fever  when  he  wrote,  but  has  got  tolerably  well. 

"  The  men  who  came  down  return  to-morrow,  and  ought  to  be  there  in 
twenty-five  days,  for  the  road  is  fine,  and  grass  and  food  plenty. 

"  Believe  me,  dear  Sir  Roderick,  yours  most  sincerely, 

"John  Kirk." 


"  Zanzibar,  September  22,  1871. 

"  My  Lord, — Letters  just  received  by  special  messengers,  who  left  Unya- 
nyembe  about  a  month  ago,  inform  us  of  a  sad  disaster  that  has  befallen  the 
Arab  settlement  there,  and  that  will  in  all  likelihood  stop  the  road  to  Ujiji  and 
Karague  for  some  time  to  come. 

"  All  accounts  agree  as  to  the  main  facts  ;  but  naturally  the  letters  written 
by  Mr.  Stanley,  an  American  gentleman,  who  was  on  the  spot,  are  the  most 
circumstantial  and  reliable.  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Webb,  the  American 
Consul  here,  for  some  details  related  in  those  letters,  which  will,  no  doubt,  be 
published  in  full  elsewhere.  Briefly  the  position  is  this  :  the  Arab  colony 
of  the  interior,  whose  centre  is  Unyanyembe,  has  for  some  time  been  led  by 
a  set  of  avaricious,  unprincipled  men,  whose  acts  of  extortion,  both  on  natives 
and  the  poorer  Arabs,  have  for  some  time  back  been  complained  of  to  Seyd 
Burghash,  who  is  impotent  to  interfere  at  such  a  distance  so  long  as  things  go 
well  for  the  Arabs.  A  chief,  whose  village  was  one  day's  journey  distance  on 
the  main  road  to  Ujiji  and  Karague,  fell  under  the  displeasure  of  the  Unya- 
nyembe settlers,  and  his  place  was  attacked  in  due  course  by  a  force  of  abouA 
1500  muskets.  Seeing  that  he  could  not  hold  the  blockaded  village,  he  retired 
with  his  followers,  and  formed  an  ambush  for  the  return  of  the  attacking 
party,  when  laden  with  ivory  and  other  booty.  The  result  was  disastrous  to 
the  Arabs,  and  a  great  many  were  killed,  including  ten  or  twenty  of  the 
leaders,  men  of  good  family  here.  The  Arab  retreat  soon  became  a  rout,  and 
much  property  was  lost.  Fortunately  Mr.  Stanley,  who  was  weak  and  ill 
from  fever,  managed  to  return  to  Unyanyembe,  but  he  was  abandoned  by  the 
Arabs,  whose  conduct  he  speaks  of  as  cowardly  in  the  extreme. 

"  Such  is  the  constant  state  of  things  in  Central  Africa.  The  road  to  Ujiji 
will  now  be  shut  for  a  time,  and  when  we  may  again  hear  of  Dr.  Livingstone 
is  most  uncertain.  One  of  the  men  who  came  down  now  says  that  there  was 
a  rumour  that  Mahomed  bin  Gharib  and  the  white  man  (Dr.  Livingstone) 
would  come  back  from  Manyema  by  way  of  Marungu  and  Wemba.  The 
report  is  worth  nothing,  I  consider,  but  I  may  as  well  mention  it. 

The  last  lot  of  things  sent  by  Mr.  Churchill  had  reached  Unyanyembe,  as 
I  have  before  reported ;  but  I  now  learn  that  the  headman,  in  whose  charge 
they  were,  died  the  day  after  setting  out  for  Ujiji,  and  the  goods  were  brought 
back  to  Unyanyembe.  I  have  little  faith  now  in  the  sheikh  Saeed  bin 
Salirn,  and  shall  write  to  Mr.  Stanley,  who  will  probably  not  have  been  able 
as  yet  to  quit  the  place,  and  authorize  him  to  make  such  arrangements  as  he 
can  to  get  the  goods  forwTarded,  or  if  not,  to  act  for  me  to  the  best  of  his 
judgment  in  protecting  them  from  plunder ;  but  in  such  a  state  of  things  as 
this  it  will  be  most  fortunate  if  they  have  escaped,  and  ever  reach  their 
destination. 

"  The  messengers  will  start  on  their  return  in  a  day  or  two,  and  should  be 


APPENDIX. 


703 


able  to  accomplish  the  journey  easily  in  seventy  or  seventy-five  days,  for  the 
way  so  far  is  open  and  food  plenty. 

"To  the  Arab  ivory  trade  the  present  position  of  affairs  is  most  serious; 
they  have  now  settled  far  up  in  the  country,  and  collected  about  them 
thousands  of  slaves  drawn  from  the  country  itself ;  these  they  cannot  do 
without,  and  yet  cannot  trust;  they  are  all  armed,  and  may  turn  against  their 
masters. 

"  The  chief  with  whom  they  are  at  war  is  well  provided  with  arms,  and  a 
caravan  of  his  is  now  on  the  way  up  with  several  hundred  kegs  of  powder. 
To  stop  these  people  on  the  way,  the  Wasagara  have  been  told  already  to 
attack  and  plunder  them;  but  this  too  may  be  but  the  beginning  of  similar 
attacks  on  Arab  caravans  ;  for  the  wild  tribes,  when  once  plunder  has  been 
encouraged,  will  care  little  whom  they  attack. 

"  I  have,  &c, 

"John  Kirk, 
"  Acting  Political  Agent  and  Consul  for  Zanzibar. 

"  Earl  Granville." 

Captain  R.  F.  Burton  said  this  was  not  the  first  time  that  disturbances 
had  broken  out  between  the  Arab  trading  communities  and  the  natives  of 
Unyanyembe  and  Unyamwezi.  The  present  state  of  things  might  continue 
for  two  or  three  years ;  but  if  Livingstone  wished  to  avoid  passing  through 
that  district  there  would  be  no  difficulty  in  his  returning  by  the  south  of 
Lake  Tanganyika.  At  the  same  time,  a  white  man  like  Livingstone,  fearless, 
and  speaking  the  native  languages,  would  be  able  safely  to  pass  through 
places  in  which  no  black  man  dare  venture.  He  had  not  the  slightest  fear 
with  regard  to  Livingstone.  He  was  convinced  that  the  moment  anything 
happened  to  him  the  news  would  rapidly  spread  to  the  coast,  and  the  Society 
would  hear  of  it  almost  as  if  it  came  by  telegraph. 

November  27th. — Sir  Henry  Rawlinson  announced  that  he  had  a  com- 
munication to  make  to  the  meeting  on  another  subject  in  which  the  Geographical 
Society  took  an  equally  warm  interest — namely,  Dr.  Livingstone.  At  the  last 
meeting  he  had  occasion  to  read  certain  letters  which  had  been  addressed  by 
Dr.  Kirk  to  our  late  revered  President  and  to  the  Government  of  Bombay,  in 
which  he  described  the  accidental  outbreak  of  troubles  in  Africa  which  had  cut  off 
the  communication  between  the  sea-coast  and  Lake  Tanganyika.  The  despatch 
on  the  same  subject  addressed  by  Dr.  Kirk  to  the  Foreign  Office  had  since  then 
been  received,  and  proved  to  be  a  duplicate  of  that  before  read,  addressed  to 
the  Government  of  Bombay.  He  wished  now  to  announce  the  measures  which 
the  Council  had  that  day  proposed  to  undertake  in  consequence  of  the  receipt 
of  these  letters.  It  appeared  to  the  Council  and  himself,  now,  that  the  hope 
which  we  had  of  communicating  with  Dr.  Livingstone  through  Mr.  Stanley, 
the  American  traveller,  must  for  the  present  be  abandoned  ;  and  it  had  become 
consequently  their  duty  to  cast  about  for  some  other  means  of  reaching  him. 
Their  intention  now  was  to  address  the  Foreign  Office,  with  a  view  of  arranging, 
either  directly  from  the  Foreign  Office  or  through  co-operation  between  the 
Foreign  Office  and  our  Society,  some  means  of  communicating  with  the  interior 
district  where  Livingstone  was  supposed  to  be.  One  plan  proposed  was  to  send 
native  messengers,  offering  a  reward  of  one  hundred  guineas  to  whichever 
would  bring  back  a  letter  in  Dr.  Livingstone's  handwriting  to  the  sea-coast ; 


701 


APPENDIX. 


another,  recommended  by  one  of  our  African  travellers,  was  to  organise  a  direct 
expedition  headed  by  some  experienced  and  well-qualified  European.  Which 
of  those  two  arrangements  might  be  most  advisable  to  pursue  would  depend 
upon  the  result  of  their  communication  with  the  Foreign  Office;  but  the 
Society  might  rest  assured  that  the  Council  would  leave  no  means  untried  of 
ascertaining  whether  Dr.  Livingstone  was  detained  at  Manyema,  where  he  has 
been  so  long  reported  to  be  staying,  in  company  with  the  Arab  trader  Mohamed 
bin  Gharib. 

Mr.  Hormuzd  Rassam,  on  being  asked  for  his  opinion,  said  his  experience 
in  Abyssinia  taught  him  that  the  best  way  to  get  information  from  indi- 
viduals at  a  distance  was  by  sending  native  messengers.  On  three  different 
occasions  he  adopted  this  plan  of  communicating  with  the  Magdala  captives 
from  Massowah.  He  employed  three  different  messengers — one  Christian, 
another  a  Mohammedan,  and  a  third  a  native  of  Western  Abyssinia.  He  sent 
them  by  different  routes,  and  was  perfectly  convinced  that  they  were  ignorant 
of  each  other's  movements.  One  of  them,  it  was  true,  concocted  a  letter  and 
brought  it  back  ;  but  the  other  two  returned  within  ten  days  of  the  promised 
time  with  authentic  intelligence.  Several  Arabs  at  Muscat,  who  had  travelled 
as  far  as  Lake  Tanganyika,  had  assured  him  that  there  was  no  difficulty  in 
going  up  and  down  with  beads  and  other  articles  for  barter. 

General  Rigby  felt  convinced  that  the  plan  recommended  by  Mr.  Rassam 
would  entirely  fail.  In  Abyssinia  single  travellers  might  go  from  one  distant 
part  of  the  country  to  another,  but  on  the  east  coast  of  Africa  they  could  not. 
All  travellers  must  there  be  accompanied  by  caravans  with  a  body  of  armed 
men.  The  only  caravans  that  performed  the  journey  to  the  lakes  were  those 
of  traders,  to  whom  the  time  occupied  was  of  no  moment,  and  if  the  Sociery 
depended  on  any  single  native  going  in  with  a  caravan  and  having  to  wait  until 
he  could  return  with  another,  they  might  probably  have  to  wait  five  years  or 
more.  He  was  convinced  the  only  means  of  communicating  with  Livingstone 
and  of  rescuing  him  would  be  by  sending  an  enterprising  English  traveller 
from  Zanzibar  with  a  small  armed  party,  well  provided  with  supplies. 

Mr.  Rassam  wished  to  add  that  he  had  communicated  by  means  of  mes- 
sengers with  chiefs  in  the  distant  Galla  country,  to  reach  whom  a  journey  of 
thirty  or  forty  days  was  required.  He  thought  there  might  be  no  harm  in 
trying  both  plans. 

The  President  said  the  Council  had  decided  first  to  try  the  plan  of  offering 
a  reward  to  native  messengers,  and  if  that  failed  they  might  then  undertake 
the  more  serious  affair  of  sending  an  expedition. 

The  following  correspondence  relating  to  supplies  forwarded  to 
Dr.  Livingstone  has  been  issued  from  the  Foreign  Office : 

"  Dr.  Livingstone  to  Dr.  Kirk. 

"  Ujiji,  October  30,  1871. 
"  Sir, — 1  wrote  on  the  25th  and  28th  two  very  hurried  letters,  one  lor  you 
and  the  other  for  Lord  Clarendon,  which  were  forwarded  to  Unyanyembe.  1 
had  just  reached  this  place,  thoroughly  jaded  in  body  and  mind,  and  found 
that  your  agent,  Shereef  Basha,  had  sold  off  all  the  goods  you  sent  for  slaves 
and  ivory  for  himself.    He  had  divined  on  the  Koran  and  found  that  1  was 


APPENDIX. 


706 


dead.    He  also  wrote  to  the  Governor  of  Unyanyenibe  that  he  had  sent  slaves 
to  Manyema,  who  returned  and  reported  my  decease,  and  he  wished  the  per- 
mission of  the  Governor  to  sell  the  goods.    He,  however,  knew  from  men  who 
came  from  me  in  Manyema  that  I  was  near  Ujiji,  at  Bambarre,  and  waiting 
for  him  and  supplies ;  but  when  my  friends  here  protested  against  the  sale  of 
my  goods,  he  invariably  answered,  '  You  know  nothing  about  the  matter ;  I 
alone  know  that  the  Consul  ordered  me  to  remain  one  month  at  Ujiji,  and  then 
sell  off  and  return.'    When  I  came,  he  said  Ludha  had  so  ordered  him.  From 
the  Banian  slaves  you  sent  I  learn  that  Ludha  went  to  Ali  bin  Salim  bin 
Rashid,  a  person  notoriously  dishonest,  and  he  recommended  Shereef  Basha  as 
leader  of  the  caravan.    No  sooner  did  he  obtain  command  than  he  went  to 
Muhamad  Nassur,  who  furnished  twenty  full  boxes  of  soap  and  eight  cases  ol 
brandy,  to  be  retailed  in  the  course  of  the  journey  inland.  At  Bagamoyo  Shereef 
got  a  quantity  of  opium  and  gunpowder  from  two  Banians  there,  whose  names 
are  unknown  to  me.    In  their  house  Shereef  broke  the  soap  boxes  and  stored 
the  contents  in  my  bales ;  the  brandy  cases  were  kept  entire,  and  pagazi  em- 
ployed to  carry  them  and  the  opium  and  gunpowder,  and  paid  out  of  my  bales. 
The  Banians  and  Shereef  had  interposed  their  own  trade  speculation  between 
two  Government  officers,  and  thenceforward  all  the  expenses  of  the  journey 
were  defrayed  out  of  my  supplies,  and  Shereef  was  able  to  send  back  to  his 
accomplices  five  frasilahs  of  ivory  from  Unyanyenibe,  value  some  £60 ;  the 
pagazi  a£iain  paid  by  me.    He  was  in  no  hurry  to  aid  me,  but  spent  fourteen 
months  in  traversing  a  distance  that  could  easily  have  been  accomplished  in 
three.    If  we  deduct  two  months'  detention  by  sickness,  we  have  still  twelve 
months,  of  which  nine  were  devoted  to  the  private  interests  of  the  Banians  and 
Shereef.    He  ran  riot  with  my  goods,  buying  the  best  provisions  and  drink 
the  country  afforded ;  lived  in  my  tent  till  it  was  so  rotten  and  full  of  holes  I 
never  could  use  it  once  ;  remained  two  months  at  three  several  places  retailing 
brandy,  opium,  gunpowder,  and  soap,  and,  these  being  finished,  on  reaching 
Ujiji  he  would  go  no  further.    Here  it  is  commonly  reported  he  lay  drunk  for 
a  mouth  at  a  time,  the  dura,  pombe,  and  palm-toddy  all  bought  with  my  fine 
samsam  beads.    He  issued  twenty-four  yards  of  calico  per  month  for  himself, 
eight  yards  ditto  for  each  of  his  two  slaves,  eight  yards  ditto  for  his  woman,  and 
eight  yards  ditto  to  Awathe,  the  other  headman  ;  and  when  he  sent  seven  of  the 
Banian  slaves  employed  by  Ludha  to  me  at  Bambarre  he  would  not  allow  me 
more  than  two  frasilahs  of  the  very  coarsest  beads,  evidently  exchanged  for 
my  fine  samsams,  a  few  pieces  of  calico,  and,  in  great  mercy,  half  of  the  coffee 
and  sugar.    The  slaves  came  without  loads.    Shereef  finished  up,  as  above 
stated,  by  selling  off  all  except  the  other  half  of  the  coffee  and  sugar  and  one 
bundle  of  unsaleable  beads,  and  four  pieces  of  calico.    He  went  off  from  this, 
but  hearing  of  disturbances  at  Unyanyembe,  deposited  his  ivory  in  a  village 
near  to  this,  and  coming  back  took  the  four  pieces  of  calico,  and  I  received,  of 
all  the  fine  calico  and  beads  you  sent,  not  a  single  yard  or  string  of  beads. 
Awathe,  the  other  headman  employed,  was  a  spectator  of  all  the  plunder  by 
Shereef,  from  the  coast  upwards,  and  never  opened  his  mouth  in  remonstrance 
or  in  sending  back  a  report  to  his  employer.    He  carefully  concealed  an  infir- 
mity from  you  which  prevented  him  from  performing  a  single  duty  for  me. 
He  had  his  shepa  long  before  he  was  engaged,  and  he  stated  to  me  that  the 
large  fleshy  growth  came  up  at  once  on  reaching  Ujiji.    It  is  not  hydrocele 
but  sarcocele,  and  his  own  statement  proved  that  the  pain  he  feigned  had 
entirely  ceased  when  a  friend  of  mine,  Dugumbe,  offered  to  convey  him  by 
short  easy  stages  to  me.    He  refused,  from  believing  that  the  Banians  have  so 
much  power  over  us  that  he  will  be  paid  in  full  for' all  the  time  he  has  been 
devouring  my  goods,  though  quite  unable  to  do  any  duty.    Dugumbe  also 
offered  to  convey  a  packet  of  letters  that  was  delivered  to  Shereef  here  as  my 
agent,  but  when  he  told  him  that  he  was  about  to  start  it  was  not  forthcoming 
It  was  probably  destroyed  to  prevent  my  seeing  the  list  of  goods  you  sent  by 

2  z 


706 


APPENDIX. 


one  Hassani  to  Unyanyembe.  With  due  deference  to  your  judgment,  I  claim 
all  the  expenses  incurred,  as  set  down  against  me  in  Ludha's  books,  from  the 
Banians,  who  by  fraud  converted  a  caravan  to  help  me  into  a  gratification  of 
their  own  greed.  Muhamad  Nassur  can  reveal  the  names  of  the  other  Banian 
accomplices  of  Shereef  wno  connived  in  supplanting  help  for  me  into  a  trade 
speculation  ;  they  ought  to  pay  the  slaves  sent  by  Ludha,  and  let  them,  the 
Banians,  recover  from  Shereef.  I  report  this  case  to  her  Majesty's  Government 
as  well  as  to  you,  and  believe  that  your  hands  will  thereby  be  strengthened  to 
see  that  justice  is  done  tome  and  that  due  punishment  be  inflicted  on  the  Bani- 
ans, on  Shereef,  and  Awathe,  and  on  the  Banian  slaves  who  baffled  and  thwarted 
me  instead  of  fulfilling  the  engagement  entered  into  in  your  presence.  In  intrust- 
ing the  matter  of  supplies  and  men  for  me  to  the  Banian  Ludha,  you  seem  to 
have  been  unaware  that  our  Government  forbids  its  servants  to  employ  slaves. 
The  commissioner  and  consul  at  Loanda,  on  the  West  Coast,  sent  all  the  way 
to  St.  Helena  for  rather  stupid  servants,  so  as  not  to  incur  the  displeasure  of 
the  Foreign  Office  by  using  very  clever  Portuguese  slaves  within  call.  In  the 
very  trying  circumstances  you  mention,  during  the  visitation  of  cholera,  and  in 
the  absence  of  the  instructions  I  had  enclosed  to  employ  free  men  and  not 
slaves,  as  also  in  the  non-appearance  of  the  checks  for  money  enclosed  in  the 
lost  packet,  the  call  on  Ludha  was,  perhaps,  the  easiest  course,  and  I  trust  that 
you  will  not  consider  me  ungrateful  if  I  point  out  that  it  involved  a  great  mis- 
take. Ludha  is  polite  enough,  but  the  slave  trade,  and,  indeed,  most  other 
trades,  is  carried  on  chiefly  by  the  money  of  Banians — British  subjects,  who 
receive  most  of  the  profits,  and  adroitly  let  the  odium  of  slaving  fall  on 
the  Arabs.  They  hate  us  English,  and  rejoice  more  over  our  failures  than 
successes.  Ludha  sent  his  own  and  other  Banian  slaves,  at  $60  a  year, 
while  the  usual  pay  of  free  men  at  Zanzibar  is  from  $25  to  $30  a  year.  He 
will  charge  enormous  interest  on  the  money  advanced — it  is  reported  of  20 
or  25  per  cent. ;  and  even  supposing  Shereef's  statement  that  Ludha  told 
him  not  to  go  beyond  Ujiji,  but  after  one  month  sell  off  all  and  return,  to  be 
quite  untrue,  it  is  passing  strange  that  every  one  of  the  Banian  slaves  em- 
ployed stoutly  asserted  that  they  were  not  to  follow,  but  to  force  me  back. 
I  had  no  hold  on  people  who  knew  that  they  would  not  be  allowed  to 
keep  their  wages.  It  is  also  very  remarkable  that  the  objects  of  your 
caravan  should  be  so  completely  frustrated  by  Banians  conniving  with 
Shereef  almost  within  the  shadow  of  the  Consulate,  and  neither  dragoman 
nor  other  paid  officials  under  your  orders  give  any  information.  The  cha- 
racters of  Ali  bin  Salem  bin  Raschid  and  of  his  chum  Shereef  could  scarcely 
have  been  hid  from  them.    Why  employ  them  without  characters? 

"  Yours  very  truly, 

"  David  Livingstone." 

"  P.S. — November  16,  1871. — I  regret  the  necessity  of  bringing  the  fore- 
going very  unpleasant  subject  before  you,  but  I  have  just  received  information 
and  letters  that  make  the  matter  doubly  serious.  Mr.  Churchill  informed  me, 
by  a  letter  of  September,  1870,  that  her  Majesty's  Government  had  most 
kindly  sent  1000Z.  for  supplies  to  be  forwarded  to  me ;  some  difficulties  had 
occurred  to  prevent  500?.  worth  from  starting,  but  in  the  beginning  of 
November  all  were  removed.  But  you  had  recourse  to  slaves  again,  and 
one  of  these  slaves  now  informs  me  that  they  remained  at  Bagamoyo  four 
months,  or  till  the  end  of  February,  1871.  No  one  looked  near  them  during 
that  time,  but  a  rumour  reached  them  that  the  Consul  was  coming,  and  off 
they  started  two  days  before  your  arrival,  not  on  their  business,  but  on  some 
private  trip  of  your  own.  These  slaves  came  to  Unyanyembe  in  May  last, 
and  there  they  say  that  the  war  broke  out  in  July,  and  gave  them  a  good 
excuse  to  be  there  still.    A  whole  year  has  thus  been  spent  in  feasting  slaves 


APPENDIX. 


707 


on  500J.  sent  by  Government  to  me.    Like  the  man  who  was  tempted  tc 

despair  when  he  broke  the  photograph  of  his  wife,  I  feel  inclined  to  relin- 
quish the  hope  of  ever  getting  help  from  Zanzibar  to  finish  the  little  work 
I  have  still  to  do.  I  want  men,  not  slaves,  and  free  men  are  abundant  in 
Zanzibar  :  but  if  the  matter  is  committed  to  Ludha,  instead  of  an  energetic 
Arab,  with  some  little  superintendence  by  your  dragoman  or  others,  I  may 
.vaii  twenty  years,  and  your  slaves  feast  and  fail." 


"  Dr.  Livingstone  to  Dr.  Kirk. 

"  Unyanyembe,  February  20,  1872. 
"  My  dear  Kirk, — As  I  am  sending  by  Mr.  Stanley  for  fifty  freemen 
from  Zanzibar  to  enable  me  to  finish  up  my  work,  I  beg  you  to  favou* 
me  with  your  influence  with  the  Sultan,  that  he  may  give  me  an  able 
headman  to  lead  them  quickly  here,  and  continue  with  me  till  I  have 
finished  what  I  have  still  to  do— a  man  of  good  character,  willing  to  work 
tor  me,  and  on  no  account  to  attempt  to  inflict  (sic)  any  private  speculation 
on  my  expedition.  It  is  necessary  to  be  explicit  on  this  point;  but  if  he 
proves  himself  a  good  energetic  headman,  when  we  come  into  the  country 
where  ivory  is  abundant  I  shall  try  to  make  it  worth  his  while  to  have 
come  by  means  of  my  own  goods.  If  he  has  gone  with  a  caravan  previ- 
ously, he  will  know  what  duties  he  owes  to  the  chief  of  it.  We  shall  see, 
on  his  arrival  here,  by  the  manner  in  which  he  has  obeyed  Mr.  Stanley's 
instructions  as  to  the  donkeys  and  meD,  whether  he  is  qualified  to  accompany 
me  further.  His  duty,  as  you  very  properly  told  others,  is  to  do  what  he  iz 
ordered,  and  see  that  those  under  him  do  the  same,  without  reference  to  the 
customs  or  practices  of  any  other  caravan.  I  wish  you  to  hand  over  to 
Mr.  Henry  M.  Stanley  the  sum  of  £500  out  of  the  money  placed  in  your  hands 
for  my  use  by  her  Majesty's  Government,  to  be  laid  out  by  him,  and  you  will 
receive  his  receipt  as  a  sufficient  acknowledgment  from  me.  He  knows  the 
kind  of  men  and  necessaries  I  need,  and  I  am  sure  your  consular  influence  will 
be  used  to  help  him  to  get  all  I  require,  and  a  speedy  departure  of  the  party 
inland.  If  you  received  two  letters  written  hastily  on  the  28th  of  October, 
1871,  as  soon  as  I  reached  Ljiji,  one  for  you  and  the  other  for  Lord  Clarendon, 
you  may  have  been  led  to  employ  Banian  or  other  slaves  again  instead  of  free 
men.  Do  not  hesitate  ;  please  at  once  to  discharge  them,  no  matter  what 
expense  may  have  been  incurred.  I  have  given  Mr.  Stanley  a  draft  on 
Bombay  in  case  of  your  having  spent  all  the  money  (10007.)  sent  by  Govern- 
ment. No  slaves  must  be  sent,  for  all  those  already  employed  came  full 
of  the  idea  that  they  were  not  to  follow  but  force  me  back,  and  they 
positively  swore  (falsely,  of  course,)  that  you,  the  consul,  had  so  instructed 
them.  I  enclose  a  receipt  for  a  pocket  chronometer  from  the  captain  of 
aDv  man-of-war  who  may  be  able  and  willing  to  lend  me  one  without  inter- 
fei  'ig  with  the  navigation  of  his  own  ship ;  and  before  leaving  this  and  pecu- 
niary matters,  I  would  just  add  that  haste  is  of  vital  importance,  and  if  any 
other  way  of  getting  money  quickly  suggests  itself,  either  from  Mr.  Young  or 
irom  my  baukers,  Coutts  &  Co.,  please  adopt  it,  and  I  hereby  engage  to  refund 
the  whole  by  cheque  as  soon  as  Mr.  Stanley's  men  reach  Unyanyembe.  By 
some  newspapers  sent  by  Mr.  Webb  to  Mr.  Stanley,  I  see  that  you  are  under 
the  impression  that  goods  and  packets  committed  by  you  to  Banians  may 
reach  Ujiji  in  about  a  month  after  delivery.  The  box  packed  by  you  was 
about  four  years  in  the  way;  goods,  and  I  suppose  letters,  were  sent  by 
one  Hassain,  and  totally  disappeared.    Letters  sent  by  Shereef  were  fourteen 


708 


APPENDIX. 


months  on  the  way  to  Ujiji ;  one  packet  of  them  was  destroyed.  All  tli€ 
goods  were  sold  off  for  slaves  and  ivory.  But  you  were  misled  to  cause  Earl 
Granville  to  say  in  the  House  of  Lords  that  all  my  wants  had  been  supplied. 
I  need  not  enlarge  further  than  give  a  bird's-eye  view  of  your  last  supplies 
through  Ludha  and  slaves.  The  letters  were  fourteen  months  in  the  way  to 
Ujiji,  and  came  only  through  Mr.  Stanley  accidentally  seeing  and  seizing  them 
for  me.  The  slaves  you  sent  would  not  accompany  him  to  Ujiji.  Why 
should  they  all  have  been  taught  not  to  follow  me  ?  They  told  me  that 
they  lay  four  months  at  Bagamoyo.  Three  bags  of  beads  and  one  bale  of 
cloth  disappeared  there  ;  then  the  two  headmen  ran  riot  on  the  goods  here. 
One  died  of  smallpox,  and  Athman,  the  survivor,  broke  the  bolt  and  keys  of 
Mr.  Stanley's  store  in  open  day,  and  stole  his  goods.  Dismissed. 

"  I  am,  &c, 

"  David  Livingstone, 

"  Her  Majesty's  Consul,  Inner  Africa." 


Dr.  Kirk  to  Earl  Granvllle. 

"  Zanzibar,  May  9,  1872 

"  I  have  the  honour  to  report  that  yesterday  Mr.  Stanley,  whose  approach 
I  had  already  announced,  entered  Zanzibar  and  placed  in  my  hands  letters 
from  Dr.  Livingstone,  of  which  I  herewith  furnish  copies.  Dr.  Livingstone 
having  studiously  refrained  from  affording  the  smallest  hint  either  of  his  past 
labours  during  the  three  years  he  has  been  silent,  or  regarding  the  new  ex- 
plorations he  is  about  to  embark  on  and  for  which  he  orders,  through  Mr. 
Stanley,  a  grant  of  fifty  armed  men,  and  authorizes  an  expenditure  of  500Z.,  I 
must  allow  Mr.  Stanley,  who  has  been  intrusted  with  the  secret,  to  disclose  it  in 
the  way  that  best  suits  the  interests  of  his  employer.  To  Mr.  Stanley  has 
been  confided  the  whole  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  diary  and  notes,  with  special 
instructions  to  allow  nothing  to  transpire  here  as  to  his  route  or  plans  ;  and 
letters  formerly  written,  in  which  some  information  was  given,  have  been  sup- 
pressed or  lost.  The  balance  of  the  Government  grant  of  1000?.,  placed  by  your 
Lordship  in  Mr.  Churchill's  hands,  having  been  transferred  at  your  directions  to 
the  Livingstone  Search  and  Relief  Expedition,  is  already  at  the  disposal  of  Mr. 
W.  0.  Livingstone,  who  now  represents  that  expedition,  the  senior  members 
having  judiciously  retired  on  its  being  known  that  Dr.  Livingstone  was  safe 
and  within  easy  access  at  Unyanyembe,  and  in  possession  of  ample  stores  for 
the  years  that  he  still  purposes  remaining  in  the  country.  Mr.  Stanley  has 
shown  me  the  list  of  things  now  ordered  through  him,  almost  all  of  which  are 
already  in  the  outfit  of  the  expedition  and  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  W.  O.  Living- 
stone. The  expensive  cotton  goods  and  beads  already  packed  for  the  journey 
will  therefore,  in  all  probability,  be  sold,  as  we  know  they  are  no  longer 
needed  by  Dr.  Livingstone.  In  the  hands  of  the  expedition  there  are  also 
fifty  rifled  carbines,  that  will  render  unnecessary  any  fresh  outlay  on  this  head 
in  arming  the  fifty  men  to  be  selected  by  Mr.  Stanley  ;  in  fact,  slave-chains 
ordered  by  Dr.  Livingstone  to  be  provided  for  the  guard,  to  be  used  in  case  of 
their  refusing  work,  as  did  those  whom  he  before  had,  are  about  the  only 
things  not  already  purchased,  but  the  conduct  of  the  whole  matter  as  it  affects 
the  expedition  is  now  in  the  hands  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  own  son,  and  the 
selection  of  men  is  jealously  placed  in  Mr.  Stanley's  hands.  The  party,  at 
Dr.  Livingstone's  express  request,  will  start  off  at  once  in  light  marching 
order.  The  bulky  correspondence  I  enclose  shows  clearly  that  the  agent, 
Shereef  Bashft,  intrusted  to  convey  stores  to  Ujiji,  did  so  in  the  most  dilatory 


APPENDIX.  700 

and  dishonest  manner  ,  but  it  seems  that  the  trading  speculations  on  the  first 
part  of  the  way  were  chiefly  carried  on  with  goods  borrowed  on  the  coast 
which  he  mixed  with  Government  stores  in  order  to  esca^  the  cost  of  transit. 
He  arrived  at  Ujiji,  however,  with  an  ample  store  of  Government  goods,  which, 
if  honestly  given  up,  would  have  long  sufficed  for  all  Dr.  Livingstone's  wants. 
At  Ujiji,  thinking  that  Dr.  Livingstone  would  not  return  from  Manyema,  he 
made  away  with  the  most  valuable,  sending  only  a  very  little  to  the  Doctor. 

"  The  second  supply  forwarded,  being  a  duplicate  of  the  first  order,  has 
readied  Unyanyembe.  This  party  was  first  organised  and  sent  off  by  Mr 
Churchill,  but  the  men  skulked  on  the  coast  until  after  Mr.  Churchill's  de- 
parture from  Zanzibar.  Having  reason  to  suspect  that  this  was  the  case,  I 
first  sent  a  consular  servant  and  followed  myself;  most  of  the  party  had 
started  off  precipitately  on  hearing  of  my  approach,  but  there  remained  several 
loads  which  I  had  personally  to  expedite  from  Bagamoyo.  It  is  however 
these  goods  that  are  now  in  Dr.  Livingstone's  hands,  and  it  was  regarding 
them,  on  learning  war  had  broken  out,  that  I  requested  Mr.  Stanley,  who  was 
at  Unyanyembe,  to  act  for  me  in  forwarding  them  to  Dr.  Livingstone.  At 
that  time  it  was  not  known  here  that  Mr.  Stanley  had  gone  in  search  of 
Dr.  Livingstone,  for  this  he  had  carefully  concealed  at  starting  ;  but  finding  a 
white  man  on  the  spot  I  requested  him  to  do  what  he  could  to  push  on  stores 
intended  for  a  fellow-traveller.  Much  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  correspondence  with 
this  office  relates  to  formal  charges  of  slave-holding  against  several  of  the  most 
important  members  of  the  British  Indian  community.  I  can  vouch  for  it  that 
each  man  fully  understood  every  word  written  in  the  contract ;  and  further, 
that  these  men,  said  to  be  slaves  of  Banians,  declared  themselves  freed  men. 
That  these  men  have  turned  out  badly  there  can  be  no  doubt ;  but  Mr.  Stanley 
tells  me  that  he  has  been  compelled,  with  his  own  escort  under  his  eye,  to 
march  them  in  slave-chains  to  prevent  similar  disasters,  and  Dr.  Livingstone, 
in  a  paper  in  his  own  handwriting,  orders  chains  for  such  a  use  for  the  men 
who  now  go  up  to  join  him.  With  the  old  affair  of  the  Johanna  men  and  Dr. 
Livingstone's  pecuniary  claim  against  them,  I  shall  await  your  Lordship's 
orders  ;  but  as  Johanna  is  not  within  my  jurisdiction  I  enclose  the  paper 
relating  thereto  in  original.  I  refrain  from  making  any  observations  on  the 
very  uncourteous  tone  of  these  official  letters,  or  the  ungenerous  personal  in- 
sinuations affecting  myself  and  Mr.  Churchill's  conduct,  but  I  shall  be  ready, 
when  required,  to  answer  any  point  on  which  your  Lordship  may  call  fur  an 
explanation.  I  am  wholly  at  a  loss  to  explain  why  Dr.  Livingstone,  accredited 
as  her  Majesty's  consul,  should  not  at  once  have  taken  the  strongest  measures 
to  put  an  end  to  murder,  slave-stealing,  and  robbery,  all  of  which,  he  says, 
were  openly  earned  on  by  Xassick  boys — British  ]>roteyes — who,  if  not  now 
part  of  his  escort,  were  at  least  introduced  into  the  country  by  him,  and  at  the 
time,  in  the  same  camp.  If  he,  on  the  spot,  armed  with  the  consular  autho- 
rity, after  seeing  what  he  describes,  finds  himself  powerless  to  interfere,  how 
can  he  expect  justice  to  overtake  the  accused  from  this  distance,  in  a  region 
not  in  any  way  within  the  power  of  the  Zanzibar  Sultan  T 


(Extract.) 

"  Dr.  Kirk  to  Earl  Granville.    (Received  July  22.) 

"  Zanzibar,  May  18,  1872. 
"  I  have  the  honour  to  report  that,  on  receipt  of  certain  intelligence  that 
Dr.  Livingstone  was  at  Unyanyembe,  distant  only  thirty  days'  journey  from 
the  coast,  in  good  health,  and  in  possession  of  ample  supplies,  but  without  any 


♦ 


710  APPENDIX. 

intention  of  leaving  Africa  for  the  present,  Lieutenant  Dawsor.,  leader  of  the 
4  Search  and  Relief  Expedition,'  determined  that  his  services  as  a  hydrographer 
and  skilled  surveyor  were  not  required.  Dr.  Livingstone's  son  still  insisting  on 
proceeding  to  join  his  father  and  follow  him,  and  Lieutenant  Henn,  under  this 
circumstance,  thinking  it  hardly  well  to  allow  him  to  proceed  alone,  took 
command  on  Lieutenant  Dawson  retiring.  Mr.  New,  missionary,  who  had 
joined  the  expedition  here  as  interpreter,  offered  also  to  go,  and  the  new  party 
were  ready  for  a  start  when  Mr.  New  resigned,  on  the  ground  that,  after 
better  reflection,  he  could  not  accept  a  second  position.  His  services  were  at 
once  dispensed  with  and  his  resignation  accepted.  Lieutenant  Henn,  Mr. 
W.  0.  Livingstone,  and  the  native  guard  next  proceeded  to  the  African  main- 
land, where  the  goods  had  already  been  collected  under  Lieutenant  Dawson. 
The  party  was  ready  to  start,  and  perhaps  no  expedition  ever  set  out  under 
better  auspices  or  better  fitted  out,  when  Mr.  Stanley,  the  American  news- 
paper correspondent,  who  a  year  ago  had  gone  off,  reached  Bagatr.oyo.  Mr. 
Stanley  lost  no  time  in  assuring  Lieutenant  Henn  that  he  had  written  orders 
irom  Dr.  Livingstone  to  turn  any  expedition  he  might  meet  coming  up 
country  to  him,  and  informed  Lieutenant  Henn  that  he  and  his  party  would 
be  far  from  welcome,  and  their  presence  only  an  incumbrance,  as  he  (Mr. 
Stanley)  held  the  Doctor's  own  orders  for  a  gang  of  men  and  the  special 
supplies  he  still  required.  On  returning  to  Zanzibar,  where  it  was  obvious 
from  the  tenour  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  official  correspondence  that  he  would  not 
welcome  the  arrival  of  any  assistance  unless  through  Mr.  Stanley,  his  con- 
fidential agent,  Lieutenant  Henn,  necessarily  retired,  but  Mr.  W.  0.  Living- 
stone still  persisting  in  his  purpose  to  reach  his  father  at  all  hazards  in 
company  with  Mr.  Stanley's  men,  the  expedition  stores  were  transferred  to 
his  care.  Mr.  Stanley  lost  no  time  in  applying  for  the  £500  that  Dr.  Living- 
stone had,  in  a  letter  I  have  already  sent  in  copy,  ordered  me  to  deliver  over. 
1  informed  him  that  I  then  held  no  such  funds,  all  having  been  some  time 
before  made  over  by  your  Lordship's  orders  to  the  Search  Expedition,  and  that 
the  whole  responsibility  of  the  same  rested  with  Mr.  W.  0.  Livingstone.  Mr. 
Stanley  thereupon  destroyed  a  check  of  Dr.  Livingstone  for  the  sum  of  £500, 
drawn  on  Bombay.  Mr.  W.  0.  Livingstone,  since  perusing  his  father's  letters, 
refused  to  accompany  Mr.  Stanley's  party  or  go  to  his  father.  He  has  given 
Mr.  Stanley  all  he  needed  in  stores  and  money,  and  the  American  party  left 
yesterday  for  the  coast.  I  shall  here  add,  as  otherwise  my  conduct  may  be 
misrepresented,  that  Mr.  Stanley,  in  order  to  evade  blame  if  his  men  did  not 
reach  Unyanyembe  in  time,  applied  to  me  to  see  them  started  off  after  his 
departure  from  Zanzibar.  This  was  positively  and  at  once  declined,  and  I 
informed  him  that  I  could  not,  after  what  Dr.  Livingstone  had  done  and  said, 
act  in  any  but  an  official  capacity.  Mr.  W.  0.  Livingstone  has  sold  off  here 
the  surplus  stores  of  the  expedition  and  will  render  his  accounts  to  the  Royal 
Geographical  Society." 

From  the  above  we  see  that  Dr.  Livingstone  writes  a  formal  com- 
plaint to  Dr.  Kirk,  and,  of  course,  is  obliged  to  address  his  friend  by 
the  formal  term  of  "  Sir."  He  then  goes  on  to  relate  the  results  of 
the  several  caravans  sent  to  him  from  Zanzibar,  and  in  a  postscript 
confesses  that  he  regrets  the  necessity  of  writing  upon  an  unpleasant 
subject. 

In  the  letters  of  Dr.  Kirk,  which  evidently  show  that  he  resents 
the  complaint,  we  find  him  retaliating  with  the  following  charges 
against  Dr.  Livingstone  and  myself : 


APPENDIX. 


711 


1st.  Dr.  Livingstone  has  "  studiously  "  refrained  from  affording  the 
smallest  hint  either  of  his  past  labours  during  the  three  years  he  has 
been  silent,  or  regarding  his  new  explorations. 

2nd.  Mr.  Stanley  has  special  instructions  to  allow  nothing  to  trans- 
pire here  as  to  his  (future)  route  or  plans. 

3rd.  Letters  formerly  written  in  which  some  information  was  given 
have  been  suppressed  or  lost 

4th.  Mr.  Stanley  has  been  compelled  to  march  his  men  in  slave 
chains  to  prevent  similar  disasters  from  those  which  Dr.  Livingstone 
has  suffered. 

5th.  Dr.  Livingstone,  in  a  paper  in  his  own  handwriting,  orders 
chains  for  such  a  use  (to  prevent  disasters)  for  the  men  who  now  go 
up  to  join  him. 

6th.  The  tone  of  the  official  letters  of  Dr.  Livingstone  are  un- 
courteous,  and  the  personal  insinuations  affecting  myself  and  Mr. 
Churchill's  conduct  are  ungenerous. 

7th.  I  wonder  that  Dr.  Livingstone,  armed  with  the  consular 
authority,  finds  himself  powerless  to  interfere  to  put  an  end  to  murder, 
slave-stealing,  and  robbery,  openly  carried  on  by  Nassick  boys — 
British  protiges. 

8th.  Mr.  Stanley  lost  no  time  in  assuring  Lieutenant  Henn  that  lie 
had  written  orders  from  Dr.  Livingstone  to  turn  any  expedition  he 
might  meet  coming  up  country  to  him. 

9th.  It  is  obvious,  from  the  tenor  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  official  cor- 
respondence, that  he  would  not  welcome  the  arrival  of  any  assistance 
unless  through  Mr.  Stanley,  his  confidential  agent. 

10th.  Mr.  W.  0.  Livingstone,  since  perusing  his  father's  letters, 
refused  to  accompany  Mr.  Stanley's  party  or  to  go  to  his  father. 

Since  Dr.  Livingstone  is  absent,  and  as  I  can  answer  the  above 
charges  as  well  as  if  he  were  in  England  himself,  and  as  I  am  in- 
volved in  some  of  the  statements  and  charges  made,  it  is  my  duty  to 
explain  them  as  correctly  as  possible.  My  replies  will  be  made  in  the 
same  order  as  the  statements  are  made. 

1st.  Dr.  Livingstone  has  not  studiously  refrained  from  affording 
clues  to  his  future  plans  or  his  past  labours.  Time  and  time  again 
he  wrote  letters — copies  of  which  I  have  seen  in  his  diary — detailing 
his  discoveries. 

2nd.  Mr.  Stanley  never  received  special  instructions  to  allow 
nothing  to  transpire  as  to  Dr.  Livingstone's  future  route  or  plans, 
either  from  Dr.  Livingstone  or  Mr.  Bennett,  a  proof  of  which  is  that, 
when  the  correspondent  of  the  Daily  Telegraph  came  to  me  at  Marseilles 
for  information,  I  freely  gave  it  to  him. 

3rd.  Letters  with  information  from  Dr.  Livingstone  to  Dr.  Kirk 


712 


APPENDIX. 


and  Lord  Clarendon,  written  soon  after  his  arrival  in  Ujiji,  were  Bent 
by  couriers  to  Unyanyembe  and  received  by  Sayd  bin  Salim.  They 
were  subsequently  "  suppressed  or  lost "  between  Sayd  bin  Salim  at 
Unyanyembe  and  the  British  Consulate  at  Zanzibar  while  I  was 
travelling  with  Dr.  Livingstone  from  Ujiji  to  Unyanyembe. 

4th.  I  was  only  compelled  to  march  the  few  refractory  and  deserters 
in  chains — men  who  constantly  endangered  my  Expedition  by  leaving 
the  property  on  the  road,  or  by  mutiny. 

5th.  Dr.  Livingtone,  according  to  my  suggestions,  promised  to  try 
the  moral  effect  of  a  chain  on  the  refractory  and  deserters,  as  I  had 
done.  Some  means  of  punishment  are  as  necessary  in  Central  Africa 
for  the  incorrigible  as  prisons  in  civilised  lands. 

6th.  The  tone  of  the  letters  of  Dr.  Livingstone  are  not  uncourteous. 
Discourtesy  was  never  intended ;  they  are  mere  formal  complaints. 

7th.  Dr.  Livingstone,  armed  even  with  despotic  and  royal  authority, 
unless  he  had  means  to  enforce  it,  would  be  as  powerless  as  with  only 
consular  authority.  He  could  not  punish  the  British  'proteges  with 
capital  punishment  or  imprisonment  in  the  wilds  of  Central  Africa 
were  he  armed  with  the  authority  of  all  the  civilized  nations,  unless 
he  had  means  to  enforce  that  sublime  authority.  He  could  only 
dismiss  the  miscreants. 

8th.  I  advise  readers  to  read  the  chapter  entitled  "  Valedictory." 

9th.  It  is  not  obvious,  from  the  tenor  of  Dr.  Livingtone's  official 
letters  to  Dr.  Kirk,  that  he  would  not  welcome  any  assistance  unless 
through  Mr.  Stanley.  Dr.  Livingstone  was  not  aware  that  the  British 
public  was  organising  assistance  for  him.  In  the  absence  of  this 
knowledge  he  requested  me  to  do  the  best  I  could  for  him ;  but  the 
men  and  stores  such  as  he  said  he  required  were  sent  to  him  from 
Zanzibar  wholly  from  English  support. 

10th.  Mr.  W.  0.  Livingstone,  since  perusing  his  father's  letters,  did 
not  "  refuse  to  accompany  Mr.  Stanley's  party  or  to  go  to  his  father." 
Mr.  Livingstone  merely  withdrew  according  to  the  friendly  and 
medical  advice  given  to  him  by  Dr.  Kirk,  that  in  the  then  poor  state  of 
his  health,  it  would  have  been  extremely  unwise,  if  not  dangerous,  for 
him  to  attempt  reaching  Unyanyembe  during  the  worst  monsoon  that 
ever  visited  East  Africa. 

I  conclude  with  the  hope  that  when  Dr.  Livingstone  returns,  the 
feeling  which  Dr.  Kirk  seems  to  entertain  for  him  now  will  be  replaced 
by  one  more  courteous  and  forbearing,  which  will  tend  to  re-establish 
the  friendly  intimacy  that  formerly  characterised  the  intercourse  be- 
tween these  two  old  friends  when  they  travelled  and  lived  together  in 
the  regions  of  the  Zambezi  and  Nyassa  Lake.  On  Dr.  Livingstone's 
side  I  think  I  may  promise  a  cheery  and  hearty  response  to  this  senti- 


APPENDIX. 


713 


ment.  As  for  myself,  nothing  would  delight  me  more  than  to  see  a 
general  shake-hands  all  round.  Dr.  Livingstone  is  well  aware  of  the 
sentiments  I  entertain  for  him,  and  Dr.  Kirk  may  rest  assured  that  I 
have  a  sincere  admiration  for  himself. 

The  following  is  the  very  latest  intelligence  (received  at  the  Foreign 
Office  on  the  19th  of  October  last  past)  from  Dr.  Livingstone,  and 
goes  to  prove  precisely  what  I  have  stated,  that  he  meant  no 
discourtesy  to  Dr.  Kirk,  or  to  attack  his  conduct,  and  that  I  judged 
his  feelings  correctly  in  the  preceding  paragraph. 

Dr.  Livingstone  to  Lord  Granville. 

"  Unyanyembe,  July  1st,  1872. 
"  My  Lord, — It  is  necessary  to  recall  to  memory  that  I  was  sub- 
jected to  very  great  inconvenience  by  the  employment  of  slaves  instead 
of  freemen.  It  caused  me  the  loss  of  quite  two  years  of  time,  inflicted 
1,800  or  2,000  miles  of  useless  marching,  imminent  risk  of  violent 
death  four  several  times,  and  how  much  money  1  cannot  tell.  Certain 
Banians,  Indian  British  subjects,  headed  by  one  Ludha  Damji,  seem 
to  have  palmed  off  their  slaves  on  us  at  more  than  double  freemen's 
pay,  and  all  the  slaves  were  imbued  with  the  idea  that  they  were  not 
to  follow,  but  to  force  me  back.  By  the  money  and  goods  of  these 
Banians  nearly  all  the  slave  trade  of  this  region  is  carried  on.  They 
employed  dishonest  agents  to  conduct  the  caravans,  and  this  has  led 
to  my  being  plundered  four  several  times.  No  trader  is  thus  robbed. 
I  sent  a  complaint  of  this  to  Dr.  Kirk,  and  in  my  letter  of  the  14th  of 
November  last  I  enclosed  a  copy,  in  the  hope  that,  if  necessary,  his 
hands  might  be  strengthened  by  the  Foreign  Office  in  administering 
justice,  and  I  was  in  hopes  that  he  would  take  action  in  the  matter 
promptly ;  because  the  Banians  and  their  dishonest  agent,  Shereef, 
placed  a  private  trade  speculation  between  Dr.  Kirk  and  me,  and  we 
were  unwittingly  led  into  employing  slaves,  though  we  all  objected  to 
Captain  Fraser  doing  the  same  on  his  sugar  estate.  I  regret  very 
much  to  hear  incidentally  that  Dr.  Kirk  viewed  my  formal  complaint 
against  Banians  as  a  covert  attack  upon  himself.  If  I  had  foreseen 
this,  I  should  certainly  have  borne  all  my  losses  in  silence.  I  never 
had  any  difference  with  him,  though  we  wrere  together  for  years,  and 
I  had  no  intention  to  give  offence  now.  But  the  public  interest  taken 
in  this  expedition  enforces  publicity  as  to  the  obstacles  that  prevented 
its  work  being  accomplished  long  ago.  I  represented  the  Banians  and 
their  agents  as  the  cause  of  all  my  losses,  and  that  the  Governor  here 
is  their  chief  trade  agent.  This  receives  confirmation  by  the  fact  that 
Shereef,  and  all  the  first  gang  of  slaves,  are  now  living  comfortably 


714 


APPENDIX. 


with  him  at  Mfutu,  a  village  about  twelve  miles  distant  from  the  spot 

at  which  I  write. 

"  Having,  as  I  mentioned  in  my  above  letter,  abundant  supplies  to 
enable  me  in  a  short  time  to  make  a  feasible  finish-up  of  my  work,  and 
the  first  and  second  gangs  of  slaves  having  proved  so  very  unsatisfac- 
tory, I  felt  extremely  anxious  that  no  more  should  come,  and  requested 
Mr.  Stanley  to  hire  fifty  freemen  at  Zanzibar ;  and  should  he 
meet  a  party  of  slaves  coming,  by  all  means  to  send  them  back,  no 
matter  what  expense  had  been  incurred.  I  would  cheerfully  pay  it 
all.  I  had  no  idea  that  this  would  lead  to  the  stoppage  of  an  English 
expedition  sent  in  the  utmost  kindness  to  my  aid.  I  am,  really  and 
truly,  profoundly  grateful  for  the  generous  effort  of  my  noble  coun- 
trymen, and  deeply  regret  that  my  precaution  against  another  expe- 
dition of  slaves  should  have  damped  the  self-denying  zeal  of  gentlemen 
who  have  not  a  particle  of  the  slave  spirit  in  them.  As  I  shall  now 
explain,  but  little  good  could  have  been  done  in  the  direction  in  which 
I  propose  to  go ;  but  had  we  a  telegraph,  or  even  a  penny  post,  I 
should  have  advised  work  in  another  direction  that  would  have  pleased 
the  Council. 

"  A  war  has  been  going  on  here  for  the  last  twelve  months.  It 
resembles  one  of  our  own  Caffre  wars  in  miniature,  but  it  enriches  no 
one.  All  trade  is  stopped,  and  there  is  a  general  lawlessness  all  over 
the  country.  I  propose  to  avoid  this  confusion  by  going  southwards 
to  Fipa,  then  round  the  south  end  of  Tanganyika,  and  crossing  the 
Chambeze,  proceed  west  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Bangweolo.  Being 
then  in  latitude  12  degrees  south,  I  wish  to  go  straight  west  to  the 
ancient  fountains  reported  at  that  end  of  the  watershed,  then  turn 
north  to  the  copper  mines  of  Katanga,  which  are  only  about  ten  days 
south-west  of  the  underground  excavations.  Returning  thence  to 
Katanga,  twelve  days  south- south-west  leads  to  the  head  of  Lake 
Lincoln.  Arrived  there,  I  shall  devoutly  thank  Providence  and 
retire  along  Lake  Kamolondo  towards  Ujiji  and  home.  By  this  trip 
I  hope  to  make  up  for  the  loss  of  ground  caused  by  the  slaves.  I  was 
forced  back  from  near  the  confluence  of  the  Lomame  with  Webb's 
Lualaba.  Lomame  is  the  prolongation  of  Lake  Lincoln  into  the 
lacustrine  central  line  of  drainage — Webb's  Lualaba.  The  route  in- 
dicated utilizes  my  return  tramp  by  going  round  outside,  or  say  south, 
about  all  the  sources  together,  and  this,  going  back  through  Manyuema 
to  take  up  the  thread  of  exploration,  would  not  do.  It  also  takes  me 
outside  the  area  of  the  Ujijian  or  mainland  slaving  and  bloodshed, 
which  the  Manyuema  are  learning  to  revenge.  If  I  retired  now,  as  I 
wish  with  all  my  heart  I  could  do  with  honour,  I  should  be  conscious 
of  having  left  the  discovery  of  the  sources  unfinished,  and  that  soon 


APPENDIX. 


715 


some  one  else  would  come  and  show  the  hollowness  of  my  claim,  and 
worse  than  that  by  far,  the  Banians  and  their  agents,  who  I  believe 
conspired  to  baffle  me,  would  virtually  have  success  in  their  design. 
I  already  know  many  of  the  people  among  whom  I  go  as  quite 
friendly,  because  I  travelled  extensively  in  that  quarter  in  eliminating 
the  error  into  which  I  was  led  by  the  Chambeze  being  called,  by  the 
Portuguese  and  others,  the  Zambesi.  I  should  very  much  like  to 
visit  the  Basango,  who  are  near  my  route ;  but  I  restrict  myself  to  six 
or  eight  months  to  undo  the  losses  I  sustained.  About  five  genera- 
tions ago,  a  white  man  came  to  the  highlands  of  Basango,  which  are 
in  a  line  east  of  the  watershed.  He  had  six  attendants,  who  all  died, 
and  eventually  their  head  man,  called  Charura,  was  elected  chief  by 
the  Basango.  In  the  third  generation  he  had  sixty  able-bodied  spear- 
men as  lineal  descendants.  This  implies  an  equal  number  of  the 
other  sex.  They  are  very  light  in  colour,  and  easily  known,  as  no 
one  is  allowed  to  wear  coral  beads  such  as  Charura  brought  except 
the  Royal  family.  A  book  he  brought  was  lost  only  lately.  The 
interest  of  the  case  lies  in  its  connection  with  Mr.  Darwin's  celebrated 
theory  on  the  'origin  of  species,'  for  it  shows  that  an  improved  variety, 
as  we  whites  modestly  call  ourselves,  is  not  so  liable  to  be  swamped 
by  numbers  as  some  have  thought. 

1 '  Two  Mazitu  chiefs  live  near  the  route.  I  would  fain  call  and 
obtain  immunity  for  Englishmen  such  as  has  been  awarded  to  the 
Arabs  of  Seyed  Majid,  but  I  am  at  present  much  too  rich  to  go  among 
thieves.  At  other  times  I  could  have  gone  safely,  because,  to  use  a 
Scotch  proverb,  'No  one  can  take  the  breeks  of  a  Highlander.'  With 
ordinary  success  I  hope  to  be  back  at  Ujiji  eight  months  hence.  If 
any  one  doubts  the  wisdom  of  my  decision,  or  suspects  me  of  want  of 
love  to  my  family  in  making  this  final  trip,  I  can  confidently  appeal 
for  approbation  to  the  Council  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  as 
thoroughly  understanding  the  subject. 

"Had  it  been  possible  for  me  to  know  of  the  coming  of  the  late 
Search  Expedition,  I  should  certainly  have  made  use  of  it  as  a  branch 
expedition  to  explore  Lake  Victoria,  for  which  the  naval  officers 
selected  were  no  doubt  perfectly  adapted.  The  skeleton  of  a  boat 
left  here  by  Mr.  Stanley  would  have  served  their  purpose,  and  they 
would  have  had  all  the  merit  of  independent  exploration  and  success. 
I  travelled  for  a  considerable  time  in  company  with  three  intelligent 
Sanheli,  who  had  lived  three,  six,  and  nine  years  respectively  in  the 
country  east  of  the  Victoria  Lake,  there  called  Okara,  but  on  this  side 
Mkara.  They  described  three  or  four  lakes,  only  one  of  which  sends 
Its  waters  to  the  north.  Okara  seems  to  be  Lake  Victoria  proper  ; 
about  its  middle  it  gives  off   an  ami   eastwards  called  Kidette,  in 


716 


APPENDIX, 


which  many  weirs  are  set  and  many  fish  caught.    It  is  three  days  in 

length  by  canoe,  and  joins  Lake  Kavirondo,  which  may  not  deserve 
to  he  called  a  lake,  but  only  an  arm  of  Okara.  Very  dark  people 
live  on  it,  and  have  cattle.  The  Masai  are  further  east.  To  the 
south-east  of  Kavirondo  stands  Lake  Neibash,  or  Neybash;  they 
travelled  along  its  southern  bank  for  three  days,  and  thence  saw 
Mount  Kilimanjaro,  also  in  the  south-east ;  it  had  no  outlet.  Away 
far  to  the  north  of  Kavirondo  they  described  Lake  Bariiigo  (not  Bahr 
Ngo).  A  river  or  rivulet,  called  Ngare  na  Eogwa,  flows  into  it  from 
the  south  or  south-east.  Its  name  signifies  that  it  is  brackish. 
Baringo  gives  forth  a  river  to  the  north-east,  called  Ngardabash. 
The  land  east  and  north  of  Baririgo  is  called  Burukineggo,  and 
Gallahs  with  camels  and  horses  are  reported  ;  but  my  informants  did 
not  see  them.  I  give  their  information  only  for  what  it  may  be 
worth  ;  their  object  was  plunder,  and  they  could  scarcely  be  mistaken 
as  to  the  number  of  lakes  where  we  suppose  there  is  only  one. 
The  Okara,  or  Lake  Victoria  proper,  is  the  largest,  and  has  many  very 
large  islands  in  it.  I  have  not  the  faintest  wish  to  go  near  it,  either 
now  or  at  any  future  time.  In  performing  my  one  work  I  desire  to 
do  it  well,  and  I  think  that  I  may  lay  claim  to  some  perseverance. 
Yet  if  ordered  to  go  anywhere  else,  I  should  certainly  plead  1  severe 
indisposition,'  or  '  urgent  private  affairs.'  I  have  been  reported  as 
living  among  the  Arabs  as  one  of  themselves ;  that  only  means  that  I 
am  on  good  terms  with  them  all.  They  often  call  me  the  1  Christian, 
and  I  never  swerved  from  that  character  in  any  one  respect. 

"  An  original  plan  of  getting  the  longitude,  which  I  submit  to 
Sir  Thomas  Maclear,  of  the  Royal  Observatory  at  the  Cape,  gives 
27  degrees  east  as  the  longitude  of  the  great  river  Lualaba,  in  latitude 
4  degrees  9  minutes  south.  It  runs  between  26  degrees  and  27  degrees 
east,  and  is  therefore  not  so  far  west  as  my  reckoning — carried  on 
without  watch,  through  dense  forests  and  gigantic  grasses — made  it. 
It  is  thus  less  likely  to  be  the  Congo,  and  I  ought  to  meet  Baker  on 
it.  In  reference  to  the  ancient  fountains,  I  already  know  the  four 
rivers  that  unquestionably  do  arise  near  or  on  the  western  end  of  the 
watershed.  Mr.  Oswell  and  I  were  told,  about  1851,  that  the  Kafue 
and  Liambai  (Upper  Zambesi)  arose  at  one  spot,  though  we  were  then 
some  three  hundred  miles  distant.  The  two  rivers  Lomame  and 
Lufira  come  from  the  same  quarter;  the  only  point  that  remains 
doubtful  is  the  distances  of  their  fountain  heads,  and  this  I  am  very 
anxious  to  ascertain.  I  send  astronomical  observations  and  a  sketch- 
map  to  Sir  1  homas  Maclear  by  a  native.  The  map  is  very  imperfect, 
from  want  of  conveniences  for  tracing,  and  no  position  is  to  be  con- 
sidered settled  or  published  until  it  is  recalculated  at  the  Observatory. 


APPENDIX. 


71? 


"  There  is  a  good  deal  of  risk  in  so  doing,  but  not  so  much  danger 
as  if  I  intrusted  it  to  my  friend  the  Governor.  A  former  sketch-map, 
a  multitude  of  astronomical  observations,  and  nearly  all  my  letters, 
always  disappeared  here ;  but  it  is  better  that  they  run  the  risk  in 
the  hand  of  a  native  than  go  with  me  over  waters  innumerable.  The 
fear  of  losing  my  journal  altogether  led  me  to  intrust  it  to  Mr.  Stanley 
to  be  kept  by  my  daughter  till  I  return,  and  I  hope  it  has  arrived 
safely.  I  am  waiting  here  only  till  my  fifty  men  arrive.  The  natural 
anxiety  I  feel  for  the  safety  of  my  son  Oswell  coming  through  the 
feverish  districts  between  this  cold  highland  and  the  coast  would  have 
been  threefold  increased  had  the  naval  gentlemen  come. 

"  In  conclusion,  let  me  beg  your  lordship  to  offer  my  very  warmest 
thanks  to  them,  to  the  Council  and  Fellows  of  the  Eoyal  Geographical 
Society,  and  to  all  who  kindly  contributed  in  any  way  towards  se- 
curing my  safety.  I  really  feel  that  no  one  in  this  world  ought  tc 
bo  more  deeply  grateful  than  your  most  obedient  servant, 

"  David  Livingstone, 
u  Her  Majesty's  Consul,  Inner  Africa.54 


CONCLUDING  CHAPTER. 


The  following  correspondence,  and  especially  the  last  letter,  which 
was  accompanied  by  a  beautiful  and  valuable  gold  snuff-box  set  with 
brilliants,  will  be  treasured  by  me  as  among  the  pleasantest  results 
of  my  undertaking. 

E.  M.  S. 

"  Foreign  Office,  August  1. 
*  Sir, — I  am  directed  by  Earl  Granville  to  acknowledge  the  receipt  of  a 
packet  containing  letters  and  despatches  from  Dr.  Livingstone,  which  you  were 
good  enough  to  deliver  to  her  Majesty's  ambassador  at  Paris  for  transmission 
to  this  department ;  and  I  am  to  convey  to  you  his  Lordship's  thanks  for 
taking  charge  of  these  interesting  documents. 

"  I  am,  Sir, 

"  Your  most  obedient  humble  servant, 

**  Enfield." 

"  Henry  M.  Stanley,  Esq.,  New  York  Herald  Bureau, 
"  46,  Fleet  Street,  London." 


"  London,  August  2. 
"  Henry  M.  Stanley,  Esq.,  has  handed  to  me  to-day  the  diary  of  Dr.  Living- 
stone, my  father,  sealed  and  signed  by  my  father,  with  instructions  written  on 
the  outside,  signed  by  my  father,  for  the  care  of  which,  and  for  all  his  actions 
concerning  and  to  my  father,  our  very  best  thanks  are  due.  We  have  not  the 
slightest  reason  to  doubt  that  this  is  my  father's  journal,  and  I  certify  that  the 
letters  he  has  brought  home  are  my  father's  letters,  and  no  others. 

"Tom  S.  Livingstone." 

CO* 

"  August  2,  1872. 

"  Sir, — I  was  not  aware  until  you  mentioned  it  that  there  was  any  doubt  as 
to  the  authenticity  of  Dr.  Livingstone's  despatches,  which  you  delivered  to 
Lord  Lyons  on  the  31st  of  July.  But,  in  consequence  of  what  you  said  1 
have  inquired  into  the  matter,  and  I  find  that  Mr.  Hammond,  the  under- 
secretary of  the  Foreign  Office,  and  Mr.  Wylde,  the  head  of  the  Consular  and 
Slave  Trade  Department,  have  not  the  slightest  doubt  as  to  the  genuineness  of 
the  papers  which  have  been  received  from  Lord  Lvons.  and  which  are  being 
printed 


APPENDIX. 


719 


"I  cannot  omit  this  opportunity  of  expressing  to  you  my  admiration  of  the 
qualities  which  have  enabled  you  to  achieve  the  object  of  your  mission,  and  to 
attain  a  result  which  has  been  hailed  with  so  mucii  enthusiasm  both  in  the 
United  States  and  in  this  country. 

"  I  am,  Sir, 

M  Your  obedient, 

"  (iBANVILLE." 

"Henry  Stanley,  Esq." 


*  Foreign  Office,  August  27. 

u  Sir, — I  have  great  satisfaction  in  conveying  to  you,  by  command  of  the 
Queen,  her  Majesty's  high  appreciation  of  the  prudence  and  zeal  which  you 
have  displayed  in  opening  a  communication  with  Dr.  Livingstone,  and  relieving 
her  Majesty  from  the  anxiety  which,  in  common  with  her  subjects,  she  had 
felt  in  regard  to  the  fate  of  that  distinguished  traveller. 

"The  Queen  desires  me  to  express  her  thanks  for  the  service  you  have 
thus  rendered,  together  with  her  Majesty's  congratulations  on  your  having  so 
successfully  carried  on  the  mission  which  you  fearlessly  undertook,  tier 
Majesty  also  desires  me  to  request  your  acceptance  of  the  memorial  which 
accompanies  this  letter. 

"lam,  Sir, 

M  iour  most  obedient  humble  servant, 

**  Granville." 


THE  MKMOaiAJ- 


GLOSSARY. 


Boma.        .  .  enclosurs. 

Bubu .        .  .  black  beads. 

Diwan        .  .  elder,  chief,  or  magistrate 

Doti  .        .  .  four  yards  of  cloth. 

Dowa.        .  .  medicine. 

Fundo        .  ten  necklaces,  or  ten  khetes. 

Ghulabio    .  a.  species  of  bead. 

Hafde        .  .  a  species  of  bead. 

Hamal        .  .  carrier. 

Honga       .  .  tribute. 

Ismahili     .  .  a  native  name  for  a  particular  kind  of  cloth. 

Kadunguru  .  .a  brick-colored  species  of  bead. 

Kaif-Halek  .  .  «  How  do  you  do  ?" 

Kanik!       .  .  a  blue  cloth  manufactured  in  India. 

Khambi      .  .  camp. 

Khete        .  .  one  necklace,  or  a  tenth  of  a  fundo. 

Kichuma-chuma  .  u  Little  Irons,"  a  disease  of  the  livei. 

Kirangozi   .  .  guide. 

Kitambi      .  .  a  cloth. 

Kiti   .        .  .  stool 

Lakhio       .  .  a  pink-colored  species  of  bead. 

Lunghio     .  .  blue  beads. 

Lunghio  mbamba.  small  blue  beads. 

Lunghio  rega  .  large  blue  beads. 

M  •  a  prefix  to  denote  a  person  of  any  country ;  suoh 
as  M-jiji,  a  native  of  JijL 

3  A 


722 


APPENDIX. 


Manyapara  .  .    elder,  or  sub-chief. 

Matama      .  •    Holcus  sorghum,  or  the  Arabic  dourra. 

Mbembu     •  .    forest  peach. 

Merikani    .  •    unbleached  domestics  manufactured  in  America. 

Mganga      .  .    a  medicine  man,  or  magic  doctor. 

Miezi-Mungi  .    a  Kisawahili  term  for  "  God." 

Mtemi       .  .    a  term  synonymous  with  king. 

Mtoni.       .  .  nullah. 

Muhongo     .  .  tribute. 

Mulungu     .  .    a  native  term  for  a  Goa." 

Makunguru .  .    intermittent  fever. 

Mvuha       .  .  thunder. 

Ngombe     •  .    a  cow. 

Pagazi       .  .    a  porter,  or  carrier, 

Posho        .  .  food. 

Sami-Sami  .  .    the  name  of  red  beBC£. 

Shamba      .  ,    a  field. 

Shash        .  .    a  muslin  cloth. 

Sheikh       .  .    a  title  of  courtesy  given  to  an  elderly  man 

Shukka      .  .    two  yards  of  cloth, 

Sohari        .  .    a  kind  of  colored  cloth. 

Sungomazzi  .    large  glass  or  china  beads  of  the  size  of  marbles. 

Toujiri       .  .    the  name  for  a  particular  kind  of  cloth. 

U      •        •  .a  prefix  to  denote  the  country:  thus  U-jiji  sig- 
nifies the  country  of  Jiji. 

Uganga      •  ,  medicine. 

Wa-  ,        i  .a  prefix  to  denote  persons:  thus  Wa-jiji  would 

signify  people  of  Jiji. 
Washensi  .    a  term  of  contempt  applied  to  the  natives. 

Yambo       .        .    "  How  are  you  V ' 
Ziwa  .       .       .a  pool,  or  lake. 
Ziwani       .        •    a  pond, 


INDEX. 


A-bdal  Kadei,  tailor  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, 67,  216  ;  retirement  of,  318 
Abdullah  bin  Nasib,  165 
Acacia  horrida,  203 
African  bridges,  125 
Ali  bin  Salini,  45,  47,  49 
Aloes,  525 
Ambari,  345,  349 

Amer  bin  Sultan,  type  of  an  old  Arab 

Sheikh,  219 
Amram  bin  Mussood,  271 
Anderson,  Mr.,  on  the  failure  to  reach 

Lake  Ngami,  687 
Animals,   domesticated,  of  Central 

Africa,  529 
Ant-hills,  remarkable,  362 
Ants,  white,  destructiveness  of,  170 
Arabs,  antipathy  to,  as  slave-traders, 

in  Africa,  461 
Aranselar,  chief  butler  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, 67  ;  his  desperate  expedient 

to  escape  service,  68 
Asmani,  giant  stature  of,  306,  348; 

his  murderous  deportment,  344 
Austin,  Dr.,  of  London,  100 

Baba  (Father),  terrr.  of  courtesy  in 
addressing  elderly  persons,  597 

Baboons,  Wanderoo,  527  ;  dog-faced, 
528 

Bagainoyo,  Drench  Mission  Station 
at,  20,  43 ;  life  at,  41 ;  climate  of, 

66 

 to  Unyanyembe,  distance  of,  224 


Bambarre,  ivory  de"p6t,  450 

Bana  Mkuba,  the  "  Big  Master,"  70 

Bangwe  Island,  479 

Bangweolo  Lake,  448 

Banyans,  4  ;  keen  trading  of,  6  ;  their 

influence  on  African  trade,  7 
Baobab,  fruit  of  the,  175 
Baruti,  one  of  Speke's  Faithfuls,  death 

of,  302 

Beads  as  currency  in  the  interior,  23 

Bees,  attack  of,  on  the  caravan,  595 

Beke,  Dr.,  dogmatism  of,  468,  685 

Bemba,  wooded  hills  of,  480 

Bennet,  Mr.  James  Gordon,  424 ; 
Letter  to,  from  Dr.  Livingstone, 
617 ;  generous  act  of,  in  respect  to 
Dr.  Livingstone's  letters,  679 

Benta  forest,  324 

Bihawana,  182 

Bikari,  cluster  of  villages,  489 

Birds  of  Central  Africa,  530 

"  Bombay,"  or  Mombay,  28,  30,  314, 

345,  487 
Bomboma's  village,  277 
Borassw  flabelUf omnia,  or  Palmyra 

palm,  142 
Brooks,  Dr.,  679 
Buffalo  gnats,  354 
 herd,  376 

Bunder  Salaam,  cook  of  the  Expedi- 
tion, 67 

Burial  ceremonies,  302 

Burton,  Capt.,  4  Lake  Regions  of  Cen- 
tral Africa,'  1 ;  his  map  of  region 


724 


INDEX, 


si  Bagamoyo,  a  blank,  83 ,  expe- 
rience of  Banyans,  91 ;   iread  of 
fever  by,  93;  517,519 
Bustard,  337 

Cacti,  525 

Cazem be,  King,  444 ;  Ha  Queen  and 

her  Amazons,  445 
Chamati  Hill,  505 
Chambezi,  drainage  of,  427 
 ,  Livingstone's  difficulty  about 

the,  446 

"  Charley's "  lodging-house  at  Zan- 
zibar, kindly  spirit  of  its  land- 
lord, 3 

Chowpereh,  Mgwana  soldier,  152, 
348 

Christie,  Dr.,  physician  to  Seyd  Bur- 

ghash,  68,  662 
Chufwa  fly,  90 

Chuma,  Dr.  Livingstone's  servant, 
409 

Cloth  as  currency  in  the  interior,  23 
*  Columbine;  H.M.S.,  64 
Comorines,  9 

Cooley,  Mr.,  his  unwillingness  to  give 

up  a  pet  theory,  468,  517 
Corn-grinding  women  of  Kisemo,  106 
Crocodile,  narrow  escape  of  the  author 

from,  339 
Customs,  curious,  of  the  Wanya- 

mwezi,  544 

Dihomey,  King  of,  19 

'  Daily  Telegraph,'  representative  of, 
at  Aden,  679 

Dar  Salaam,  port  of,  225 

Dawson,  Lieut.,  visit  from,  con- 
versation as  to  his  resigning  com- 
mand of  the  Search  Expedition, 
660 ;  misapprehension  as  to  the 
authors  feelings  towards  him,  678  ; 
justification  of  his  action  in  regard 
to  the  Search  and  Belief  Expe- 
dition, 689 

Deity,  notions  of  natives  as  to,  545 

Dhows,  2 

Dilima  Peaks.  94,  288 


Diseases  common  to  the  natives,  533 
Dogara,  or  whitebait,  473,  533 
Donkeys,   equipment  of,   26;  fine 

breed  of,  in  Ubanarama,  212 
"  Dowa,"  medicine,  86 

Earwigs,  plague,  of  at  Mpwapwa,  169 
Elephantiasis  common  in  Zanzibar. 
148 

Elephants,  herd  of,  358 ;  difficulty  of 
shooting,  582 

Emancipation  Proclamation  of  Abra- 
ham Lincoln,  451 

English  press,  misconceptions  and 
inaccuracies  of,  680 

Esau,  Jemadar,  42 

Farquhar,  W.  L.,  26, 39,  67, 145, 156, 
157;  his  death,  291;  account  of, 

639 

Faulkner,  Mr.,  incredible  statements 
of,  582 

Fauna  of  Central  Africa,  527 
Ferajji,  350 

Fire-arms,  what  most  suitable  to  the 

traveller,  62 
Fish  of  the  Tanganika,  530 
Fish-eagle,  337 

Food  of  the  Arab  tribes,  526;  of 

Central  Africa,  550 
Forest  peach,  356 

Forest  scenery  of  Unyamwezi,  322  ; 
sublime  aspect  of,  520 

Foreign  Office,  letters  from,  616 

Franklyn,  Mr.  Hales,  679 

Eraser,  Capt.,  18,  662,  663 

Freiligrath's  description  of  the  lion's 
habitat,  368 

French  Missionaries,  practical  cha- 
racter of,  20;  Mission  Station  at 
Bagamoyo,  20,  43 

Fruit-trees,  526 

Galton,  Mr.  F.,  his  designation  of  the 
author's  defence  of  Dr.  Living- 
stone as  a  sensational  story,  468 
684;  his  failure  to  reach  Lake 
Ngami,  688 

Giraffes,  difficulty  of  killing,  590 


INDEX. 


725 


Glossina  morsitans,  or  tsetse  fly, 
87-90 

Great  Makata  River,  230 
G-oma  Pass,  151 

Gombe  Rivers,  North  and  South,  521 
Grant,  Col.,  685 

Granville,  Lord,  letter  from,  convey- 
ing the  thanks  of  Queen  Victoria 
and  the  announcement  of  the  Royal 
present,  716 

Goodhue,  Mr.,  or  "  Bana  Mkuba,"  39, 
70 

Guinea  palm,  524 
Haematite,  353 

Half-castes,  contemptible  character 
of,  6 

Halimah,  Dr.  Livingstone's  cook, 
417 

Hassan,  the  Mseguhha,  355 

Henn,  Lieut.,  his  meeting  with  the 
author,  653 ;  resigns  the  leader- 
ship, 664 

Herembe,  Cape,  574 

Herodotus,  his  account  of  the  Nile 
sources,  455 

Hindis,  Mohammedan,  cheating  cha- 
racter of,  8 

Hippopotami,  571 

Honey-bird,  337  ;  habits  of,  353 

Honna,  or  tribute,  55,  395 

Horner,  Pere,  65 

Hosmer,  Dr.,  679 

Hunter  s  Paradise,  the,  336 

Hysenas,  194,  528 

Ibrahim  bin  Rashid  slain,  293 
Imbiki,  101 

Insects  of  Central  Africa,  530 
Itage  village,  373 

Jackals,  528 

Jackson,  Gen.  Andrew,  advice  of,  374 
Jako,  employe*  of  the  Expedition,  67, 
165 

Jesuit  Mission  at  Bagamoyo,  20,  43 

Jiweh  la  Singa  district,  209 

Johari,  dragoman,  27,  37  ;  engaged  to 


conduct  the   caravan  conveying 
stores  to  Dr.  Livingstone  as  far  as 
the  Kingani,  666 
Jumah,  349 

Jungle  of  Msuwa,  its  horrors,  648 
Kabogi,  Cape,  511 

Kabogo  Mountain,  singular  pheno- 
menon of,  400 

Kadetamare,  or  Misonghi,  village,  144; 
favourable  situation  of,  as  mission 
field,  234 

Kahirigi,  boma  of,  394 

Kaif-Halek  or  "  How-do-ye-do,"  tha 
letter-carrier,  317 

Kalulu,  the  boy- slave,  303,  352 

Kamolondo  Lake,  450 

Kamyenyi,  635 

Kanengi  River,  394,  397 

Kaniyaga  village,  630 

Kanjee,  60 

Kanyamabengu  River,  507 
Kanyenyi,  190 
Kaole  village,  225 
Kaseh,  a  myth,  260 
Kasera  ridge,  364 
Katanga,  copper  mines  of,  464 
Katangara  Islands,  506 
Kavimba,  507 

Kema  Kagiiru  Mountains,  231 
Khamis  bin  Abdullah,  267  ;  his  death, 

293 

Khamisi,  desertion  of,  101 ;  his  nar- 
row escape,  107  ;  flogged  for  deser- 
tion, 108 ;  precis  of  character,  349 

Khonze,  remarkable  globes  of  foliage 
at,  633 

Kiala,  chief,  381 

Kibwe,  Mount,  245 

Kigoma  Bay,  479 

Kigondo,  chief,  137 

Kigwa,  220 

Kigwena  River,  488 

Kikoka  village,  81,  82 

Kikuma  River,  488 

Kilwa,  port  of,  225 

Kingani  River,  78,  81 ;  area  drained 
by,  226  ;  Valley,  77 


7>6 


INDEX, 


Kingaru  village,  94 

Kingwere,  the  canoe  paddler,  79 

Kiora  village,  144 ;  Peak,  110,  112 

Kirk,  Dr.,  Mr.  Stanley's  introduction 
to,  12  ;  his  nonchalance  in  regard 
to  Dr.  Livingstone,  14 ;  deprecia- 
tory remarks,  15 ;  his  interview 
with  Speke's  "Faithfuls,"  28; 
tardy  visit  to  Bagamoyo  in  refer- 
ence to  the  u  Livingstone  caravan," 
64  ;  wish  that  the  author  should 
explore  theEufiji  route,  83  ;  objec- 
tion to  horses  in  the  interior,  99 ; 
congratulates  the  author  on  his 
success,  662 ;  decides  as  to  the  sale 
of  part  of  the  stores  for  Livingstone, 
664 ;  advises  Mr.  0.  Livingstone  not 
to  go  on  to  his  father,  673  ;  letter 
to  the  author  on  securing  an  effi- 
cient leader  from  Seyd  Burghash, 
674 ;  his  refusal  to  act  for  Dr.  Li- 
vingstone except  in  an  official  ca- 
pacity, 675 

Kirondo,  chief,  569 

Kirurumo  village,  209 

Kisabengo,  chief,  a  minor  Theodore, 
116 

Kiscmo  village,  104  ;  belles  of,  105 

Kisuka  village,  495 

Kisigo  River,  235 

Kisunwe  River,  488 

Kitanda  or  bedstead,  85 

Kiti  defile,  203 

Kitunda  Cape,  486 

Kiwyeh,  Sultan  of,  198  ;  village,  630 ; 

population  of,  631 
Kiwrima  Valley,  113 
Kolquall  or  candelabra  tree,  161, 

524 

Konduchi  village,  225 

Krapf  and  Rebman,  Messrs.,  516 

Kudu,  341 

Kukumba  Point,  508 

Kulabi,  639 

Kusuri  or  Konsuli,  209 

Kwala  or  North  Gombe  River,  521 

Kwala  Mtoni,  216 

Kwikurkura,  261 


Ladies'  tea-parties,  early  origin  of, 
546. 

Lares  and  Penates  of  the  Wazavira, 

367 

Leopard  of  Central  Africa,  528 
Letter  of  Shaw,  145  ;  of  Farquhar, 
146 

Leukole,  chief,  164:  his  account  of 
Farquhar's  death,  639 

Liemba,  Lake,  447 

Limestone,  pisolitic,  521 

Lincoln,  Abraham,  lake  named  after, 
by  Livingstone,  451 

Lion  and  leopard,  home  of  the,  Freilig- 
rath's  description  of,  368 

Lion  of  Central  Africa,  528 

Little  Makata  River,  230 

Liuche,  valley  of  the,  407 

"  Livingstone  Cottage  "  at  Mane*  (Sey- 
chelles), happy  intercourse  at,  679 

Livingstone,  Dr.,  the  author's  first 
interview  with,  at  Ujiji,  412 ;  his 
anxiety  for  news,  414  ;  the  low  ebb 
of  his  resources,  418;  his  early 
rising,  422 ;  took  the  author  for  an 
emissary  of  the  French  Govern- 
ment, 423;  his  hard  fare,  424; 
his  sufferings  and  privations,  425  ; 
revival  of  his  enthusiasm,  427  ;  his 
guileless  character,  428 ;  his  phy- 
sical appearance,  429 ;  absurd  re- 
port of  his  marriage,  his  general 
character  and  careful  observations, 
430;  sensitiveness  of  criticism,  431, 
amiable  traits  of  his  character,  and 
his  Spartan  heroism,  432  ;  his  high 
spirits,  inexhaustible  humour,  and 
retentive  memory,  433 ;  sincerity 
of  his  religion,  434;  his  Sunday 
services,  435  ;  ability  to  withstand 
the  African  climate  due  to  his  tem- 
perate life,  435  ;  his  determination 
to  complete  his  task,  spite  of  all 
difficulties,  436  ;  completeness  of 
his  discoveries,  437  ;  summary  of 
his  experiences,  438 ;  interview 
with  King  Cazembe,  444;  diffi- 
culty as  to  the  Chambezi,  447 


INDEX. 


727 


discovery  of  Lake  Liemba,  447; 
investigation  of  the  Luapula,  448 : 
intervention  in  behalf  of  Mahomed 
bin  Sali  repaid  by  base  ingrati- 
tude, 448  ;  exploration  of  Uguhha, 
449;  sufferings  at  Bambarre,  dis- 
covery of  the  Lualaba,  description 
of  the  beauties  of  Moero  scenery, 
450  ;  admiration  of  Abraham  Lin- 
coln, 451 ;  his  belief  that  the  Lua- 
laba or  Webb's  Eiver  is  the  true 
Kile,  452;  his  admission  that  the 
Nile  sources  have  not  been  found, 
454 ;  his  opinion  as  to  the  account 
of  Herodotus,  455;  thwarted  by 
the  cowardice  of  his  men,  464; 
return  to  Ujiji,  dishonesty  of  Sherif, 
465;  destitute  condition  of  the 
Doctor,  his  complaint  of  the  Zan- 
zibar people  not  sending  him  free- 
men, 466;   his  objection  to  the 
"doctoring"  of  his  despatches  at 
home,  467 ;  his  relations  with  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  469- 
471 ;  improvement  of  his  health  from 
more  generous  diet,  contemplated 
cruise  on  the  Tanganika,  472  ;  start 
from  Ujiji,  479 ;  liability  to  diar- 
rhoea, 483  ;  manner  of  dealing  with 
demands  for  honga,  486 ;  loss  of 
stores,  &c.,  from  Bombay's  intoxi- 
cation, 487  ;  his  unwillingness  to 
retaliate  on   the  hostile  natives, 
490;  his  tenderness  in  sickness, 
497 ;  disturbed  in  bed  by  his  ser- 
vant Susi  in  a  state  of  intoxication, 
498 ;  his  opinion  that  the  Tanga- 
nika must  have  an  outlet,  505 ; 
names  the  Kavunvweh  islands  the 
"New  York  Herald  Islets,"  510; 
his  coolness  at  the  hostility  of  the 
Wasansi,  512;  calms  them  down 
by  his  gentle  bearing  and  conver- 
sation, 513  ;  his  resolve  to  finish 
his  task,  560;  complaint  of  Dr. 
Kirk's  sending  only  slaves,  561; 
resolves  to  accompany  the  author 
to  Unyanyembe,  562;  his  suffer- 


ings on  the  road,  587 ;  atMpokwa's 
village,  588  ;  his  value  as  a  travel- 
ling companion,  590 ;  stung  by  wild 
bees,  596 ;  his  qualifications  as  a 
traveller,  599 ;  peaceful  recollections 
of  his  wife's  grave,  his  relation  of 
incidents  of  the  life  of  his  son  Ro- 
bert, 601 ;  arrival  at  Ugundo,  604 ; 
letters  from  Dr.  Kirk  and  home,  605; 
welcome  to  Unyanyembe,  607 ;  in 
comfortable  quarters  and  in  pos 
session  of  stores,  608  ;  wreck  of  the 
stores  detained  by  Sayd  bin  Salim, 
612;  in  possession  of  four  years' 
store  of  supplies,  613  ;  his  letter  to 
Mr.  Bennett,  jun.,  616 ;  probable 
results  of  his  perseverance  in  Afri- 
can discovery,  619 ;  his  last  day 
with  the  author,  C22 ;  his  inten- 
tions as  to  the  future,  626 ;  the 
parting  farewell,  627 ;  instructions 
to  turn  back  any  slave  caravan  sent 
to  his  relief,  663 

>  ,  Mr.  Oswald,  introduction  to, 

655  ;  equipment  of  his  proposed  ex- 
pedition, 672  ;  determines  to  resign, 
by  Dr.  Kirk's  advice,  673 

 ,  Robert  Moffatt,  incidents  of  his 

life,  601 

■  ,  Mr.  T.  S.,  testimony  of,  to  the 

genuineness  of  the  Despatches  from 
his  father,  615 

Lizard,  large,  482 

Loajeri  River,  536 

Loeki  or  Lomani  River,  451 

Lualaba  or  "  Webb's  River  "  of  Liv- 
ingstone, 450  ;  thought  by  him  to 
be  the  true  Nile,  452 

Luapula  River,  448 

Lubilash  River,  452 

Ludha  Damji,  37 

Lufira  River,  451 

Luhanga  Peak,  493 

Lukomo  village,  388 

Luvumba  Cape,  511 

Mabruki,  cruel  treatment  of;  2w  ; 


728 


INDEX. 


Mabunguru  Nullah  205  ;  River, 
233 

Madedita,  213 

Magala,  Mutware  oi,  494 

Maganga,  86,  94,  100 

Magunda  Mkali,  201 

Mahommed  bin  Sali,  his  release  by 
Livingstone  fnd  subsequent  in- 
gratitude, 4^3 

Maizun,  Mons.,  637 

Makata  Valley,  127  ;  River,  136, 645  ; 
Plain,  641 

Makololo  race,  extinction  of,  542 

Makumbi,  chief,  385 

Malagash  Inlet,  16,  17 

Malagarazi  River,  381,  537 

Manyuema  country,  people  of,  459 ; 
the  El  Dorado  of  the  Arabs,  460  ; 
sought  as  slaves,  464 

•  tribe,  clever  weapon  manufac- 
turers, 557 

Mapanga,  635 

Marefu,  355 

Marenga  Mkali,  162,  172,  638 
Masangi,  277 

Masika,  or  rainy  season,  46,  95,  123, 

138,  640 
Matamombo,  162 

Mazitu,  marauding  propensities  of, 
444 

Mbawala,  species  of  antelope,  366 

Mbembu,  or  forest  peach,  356,  375 

Mbengerenga  River,  230 

Mbegu-tree,  523 

Mdaburu  River,  233,  630 

Medical  appliances  used  by  the  na- 
tives, 534 

Medicine  for  daubing  warriors,  280 

Metals  known  to  the  tribes  of  Central 
Africa,  533 

Mfuto,  Eastern,  278 

Mganga,  medicine-man  of  Unya- 
mwezi,  543 

Mgongo  Tembo,  or  "  Elephant's 
Back,"  211 

Mgwana,  107 

Mikiseh,  113 

jflarrra,  Mutware  of  Kimenyi,  388 


Mirambo,  280;  defeated  at  Mfulo, 
304 

Misonghi,  deserted  village,  366 
Mizanza,  191 

Mkambaku  range  of  Speke,  226 

Mkora  tree,  523 

Mkurongo  tree,  523 

Mkuti  River,  404 

Mkuyu,  gigantic  sycamore,  327 

Moero   Lake,  447;  beauty  of  the 

scenery,  450 
Mohammed  bin  Abdulla  slain,  293 
Mohammed  bin  Gharib,  570 
Monkeys,  troop  of,  370 
Morris,  Hon.  E.  J.,  79 
Mpokwa  River,  367 
Mponda,  chief,  441 
Mpwapwa,    its    fruitfulness,    163  j 

Mountains,  154,  166 
Mrera,  chief,  358 

 ,  warriors  of,  359 

Mrima,  portion  of  country  so  called, 

224 

Msagara,  youthful,  the  beau-ideal  of 

African  savage,  248 
Msuwa,  102 

Mtamba  sycamore,  gigantic  size  of, 
522 

Mtemi,  chief,  333 
Mud-fish,  216 
Mugere  River,  496 
Mugeyo  village,  493 
Mugihewa  territory,  500 
Mukamba,  chief,  496 
Mukondoku,  chief,  632 
Mukondokwa  Range,  151 ;  Pass,  230, 

642;  River,  151,  230,  641;  feeders 

of,  231 
Mukungu,  486 

Mukunguru,    African  intermittent 

fever,  86,  119,  130,  325 
Munieha,  203 
Muniyi  Usagara,  151 
Musa,  chief  of  the  Johanna  men,  442 
Murembwe  Cape,  489  ;  Point,  490 
Muscat  Arabs  of  Zanzibar,  6 
Mussoudi,  the  Diwan's  account  of  an 

extraordinary  flood,  647 


INDEX. 


729 


Musunya  Lake,  399 
Muzimu  Island,  482,493 
Mvule  tree,  524 
Mvumi  village,  641 
Mwaru,  357 
Myombo  tree,  126 
Mussoud  bin  Abdullah,  266 
Mussoudi,  109  ;  beautiful  prospect  at, 
110 

"  Nazi-Moya  "  at  Zanzibar,  5,  13 
Negroes  of  Zanzibar,  9  ;  character  of, 
10 

New,  Rev.  Charles,  introduction  to, 
659  ;  his  account  of  the  collapse  of 
the  English  Relief  Expedition,  615 

"  New  York  Herald  "  Islets,  510 

Ngaraiso  village,  630 

Nghwhalah  River,  521,  630 

Nguru  Peak,  151, 153 

Niamtaga,  404 

Niasauga  village,  482 

Niongo,  357 

Nendo,  Speke's  runaway,  214 
Nullahs,  description  of,  232 
Nyabigma  island,  484 
Nyarnbwa,  186 
Nzoe,  antelope  of  Speke,  366 

"Omar,"  Mr.  Stanley's  watch  dog, 

85 ;  death  of,  162 
Pallah  buck,  341 
Peach  trees,  wild,  535 
Pembera  Pereh,  Sultan,  184,  187 
Perpusilla,  the,  337,  529 
Piaggia,  the  Italian  traveller,  453 
Pisolitic  limestone,  94 
Plantains,  toddy  made  from,  525 
Pottery,  native,  of  the  Wazavira,  367 

Queen  Victoria,  letter  conveying  the 
thanks  of  Her  Majesty  and  the 
announcement  of  the  Royal  pre- 
sent, 616. 

Rawlinson,  Sir  Henry,  685,  687,  692 
Ras  Shangani,  "  Sandy  Point,"  13 
Rehenneko  village,  142,  641 


I  Reptiles  of  Central  Africa,  53o 

i  Rocky  Mountains  and  East  African 

chain  compared,  246 
1  Rosako  village,  84 

Royal  Geographical  Society,  their 
relations  with  Dr.  Livingstone, 
467;  leavened  with  Cooleyism, 
469 ;  their  conduct  towards  the 
author,  683  ;  their  censure  of  the 
"Search  and  Relief  Expedition" 
undeserved,  688  ;  its  collapse  due 
to  their  neglect  in  issuing  instruc- 
tions contingent  on  the  author^ 
success,  690 

Rua  country,  449  ;  people,  459 

Rubeho  Slopes,  151 ;  Peak,  167 

Rubuga,  219 

Rudewa  River,  140 

Rufiji,  or  Ruhwha  River,  235 

Rugufu  Lake,  400 ;  River,  376,  536 

Ruhinga,  chief,  501 

Rusizi  River,  495  ;  problem  of,  476 ; 
delta  of,  500 

Saadami,  port  of,  225 
Said  bin  Majid,  414 
Salim  bin  Rashid,  114 
Saline  lagoons,  origin  of,  232 
Sultana  of  Simbamwenni,  116,  131, 
132 

Sami-sami,  red  beads,  357 
Sawahili,  meaning  of  the  term,  224 
Sayf,  son  of  Ali,  slain,  293 
Sayd  bin  Salim's  house,  258 
Selim,  interpreter,  70 

 ,  the  Arab  boy,  351 

Sitting  on  Pombe,  189 

Sentakeyi,  Cape,  493 

Shaw,  J.  W.,  26,  32,  39,  66,  70,  118, 

139, 152, 157,  278,  305,  315  ;  leaves 

the  Expedition,  321 
Shamba    Gonera,     or,  "Gonera's 

Field,"  good  disposition  of  the 

Indian  widow  towards  the  whites ; 

appearance  of  the  place,  trade,  &c, 

75 

Sheikh  Sayd  bin  Salim,  266,  268,  612 
 Hamed,  188 


730 


USDEX. 


Sheikh  Hassid,  22 

 Khamis  bin  Abdullah,  266 

 bin  Nasib,  266,  297 

 Sultan  bin  Ali,  266 

 Thani,  162,  178 

Sherif,  Dr.  Livingstone's  servant,  dis- 
honesty of,  465 
Shiza.  220 
Sigungwa,  575 

Shrubs,  &c.  of  Central  Africa,  526 
Simbamwenni,  115  ;  desolation  of,  by 

flood,  646 

 Sultana  of,  120,  131,  132 

Simba,  ruler  of  Kasera,  364 
Simbo,  228,  645 

 Khambi,  126 

Simeon  Price,  Livingstone's  servant, 

443 

Singwe,  a  plum-like  fruit,  472 
Slave-trade,  225,  244 
Slave-gang,  chained,  104 
Small-pox,  terrible  scourge  of  East 

and  Central  Africa,  533 
Smoking  among  the  Wanyamwezi, 

548 

Son  beads,  473 
Somalis,  9 

Soor  Hadji  Palloo,  50,  51,  52,  55,  56, 
57,  100 

Soud,  the  Arab,  269 

 ,  son  of  Sayd  bin  Majid,  266 

 bin  Sayd,  his  attack  on  Wilyan- 

kuru,  282  ;  his  death,  283 

Speke,  Capt.,  227,  517  ;  his  "Faith- 
fuls," 27 ;  treatment  of  "  Bombay  " 
by,  28 ;  error  of,  as  to  altitude  of 
Tanganika,  466 

Stanley,  Mr.,  start  from  Bombay,  1 ; 
landing  at  Zanzibar,  hospitable  re- 
ception by  Capt.  Webb,  3 ;  im- 
pressions of  the  city,  4 ;  interview 
with  Dr.  Kirk,  12  ;  organization  of 
the  expedition,  21 ;  visit  to  the 
Sultan,  36  ;  departure  from  Zanzi- 
bar, 40  ;  landing  at  Bagamoyo,  41 ; 
troublesome  experiences,  47 ;  visit 
to  the  "  Livingstone  caravan,"  63 ; 
interview  with  Dr.  Kirk,  65  ;  pre- 


parations for  departure  into  the 
interior,  66  ;  difficulties  with  em- 
ploye's, 67 ;  chase  after  a  thief, 
despatch  of  four  caravans,  68; 
apology  for  egotism,  69  ;  departure 
of  the  fifth  caravan,  led  by  himself, 
70 ;  members  composing  it,  71 ; 
outfit,  72 ;  the  start,  first  camp. 
Shamba  Gonera,  73,  75  ;  crossing 
the  Kingani,  78 ;  hippopotami 
shooting,  80  ;  Kikoka  village,  82  ; 
map  of  Bagamoya  region,  83 ;  halt 
at  Rosako,  84 ;  "  Omar,"  watch- 
dog, missing,  85  ;  formidable  num- 
ber of  insects,  the  tsetse-fly,  87- 
90;  game  hunting,  91;  difficulty 
of  penetrating  an  African  jungle, 
92 ;  camp  at  Kingaru,  94 ;  death 
of  the  grey  Arab  horse,  and  offence 
given  by  its  interment,  96 ;  inter- 
view with  the  king  of  Kingaru,  97 ; 
loss  of  the  remaining  horse  from 
cancer,  99 ;  desertion  and  sick- 
ness, 100;  appearance  of  Ma- 
ganga's  caravan,  100 ;  march  to 
Jmbiki,  101 ;  reach  Msuwa,  perils 
of  the  jungle,  102 ;  astonishment 
of  the  chief,  103;  chained  slave- 
gang,  104 ;  halt  at  Kisemo,  104 ; 
belles  of,  105 ;  narrow  escape  of 
Khamisi,  107  ;  flogged  for  deser- 
tion, 108;  arrival  of  Wangwana 
caravan  with  file  of  '  Heralds,'  &c, 
108 ;  visit  of  Kisemo's  daughters, 
109;  Mussoudi,  109;  beautiful 
prospect,  110  ;  cross  the  Ungeren- 
geri,  111  ;  start  for  Mikeseh,  112  ; 
Ulagalla  and  Muhalleh,  113  ;  over- 
take Maganga's  caravan,  meet  with 
Selim  bin  Rashid,  news  of  Living- 
stone, 114 ;  pass  town  of  Simba- 
mwenni, 115 ;  its  fortifications,  116 ; 
curiosity  of  the  inhabitants,  117; 
four  days'  halt  and  overhaul  of  the 
luggage,  118 ;  attack  of  ague,  119 ; 
visit  of  ambassadors  of  the  Sultana 
of  Simbamwenni,  120;  wretched 
'jncampment  on  the  Ungerengeri, 


INDEX. 


124;  difficulty  of  crossing  the 
river,  125 ;  Simbo  Khambi,  Bun- 
der Salaam,  the  cook,  flogged  for 
pilfering,  126;  Makata  Valley, 
127  ;  loss  of  Bombay's  equipage, 
123;  assistance  of  the  Sultana  of  | 
Simbaniwenni  in  its  recovery,  131 ;  I 
her  appropriation  of  tribute  claimed  j 
as  due,  132  ;  intervention  of  Sheikh  i 
Thani,  132 ;  difficulties  of  the  Ma- 
kata Valley,  135 ;  escape  and  cap-  \ 
ture  of  Kingaru,  137  ;  emerge  from 
the  swamp  Makata,  attack  of  dy- 
sentery, 141 ;  halt  at  Kehenneko, 
142  ;  ascent  of  the  Usagara  Moun- 
tains, 143;  Mukondokwa  Valley 
and  River,  144 ;  Kiora,  144 ;  camp 
at,  illness  of  Farquhar,  147 ;  unsatis- 
factory state  of  his  caravan,  148 ; 
ford  of  the  Mukondokwa  River, 
151 ;  Madete,  Lake  of  Ugombo, 
153 ;  revolt  of  Shaw  and  Farqu- 
har, 157;  Shaw's  penitence  and 
subsequent  attempt  at  assassina- 
tion, 160 ;  departure  from  Ugumbo, 
161 ;  camp  at  Matamombo,  death 
of  the  dog  "  Omar,"  Sheikh  Thani 
in  clover  at  Mpwapwa,  162 ;  a 
good  breakfast  and  dinner,  163 ; 
Farquhar  left  to  be  nursed,  164; 
twelve  pagazis  engaged,  166; 
abundance  of  earwigs,  169 ;  white 
ants,  170;  Chunyo,  badness  of  the 
water,  172 ;  attack  of  fever,  173 ; 
Ugogo,  174;  frantic  conduct  of 
the  population,  176  ;  West  Mvumi, 
177 ;  the  Sultan's  exorbitant  de- 
mand of  Konda,  178  ;  Matamburu, 
reasonableness  of  the  Sultan  of, 
181 ;  Bihiwana,  182  ;  attack  of  in- 
termittent fever,  183;  Kididimo, 
bleak  aspect  and  bad  water,  184 ; 
Nyambwa,  demonstrativeness  of 
the  people,  186 ;  Mizanza,  191 ; 
benefit  from  quinine,  visit  from 
the  Sultan,  192;  Little  Mukon- 
doku,  194 ;  Mukondoku  Proper, 
195;  commotion  and  cowardice, 


196;  uproar  in  the  camp,  197; 
debate  as  to  route,  199  ;  threatened 
mutiny,  202  ;  Munieka,  203  ;  Ma- 
bunguru  Nullah,  205;  Unyam- 
bogi,  206;  Kiti,  207;  Msalalo, 
Ngaraiso,  208;  Kirurumo,  greet- 
ing from  the  villagers,  inter- 
view with  Sultan  bin  Mahommed, 
209 ;  Kusuri,  visit  from  Sheikh 
Hamed,  and  party  of  elephant- 
hunters,  210;  halt  at  Mgongo 
Tembo,  211 ;  Xghwhalah  Mtoni, 
abundance  of  sweet  water,  212 ; 
Madedita,  tsetse-fly  troublesome, 
213 ;  reach  Unyamwezi  territory 
at  Eastern  Tura,  cultivated  region, 
213 ;  Xondo,  Speke's  runaway, 
214;  Central  Tura,  attempted 
night  robbery,  214;  a  thief  shot 
dead,  pass  "Western  Tura,  215; 
Kwala  Mtoni,  mud-fish,  illness  of 
the  tailor,  Abdul  Kader,  216; 
wishes  to  give  up  his  post,  217 ; 
Eubuga,  desolation  of,  since  Bur- 
ton's visit,  219;  meeting  with 
Amer  bin  Sultan,  219;  Kigwa, 
wasted  condition  of,  220;  Shiza, 
pastoral  aspect  of,  visit  from  the 
Sultan,  220;  rejoicings  in  camp 
on  reaching  Unyanyembe  territory, 
221 ;  geography  and  ethnography 
of  the  country  traversed,  223-257  ; 
life  in  Unyanyembe,  258;  break- 
fast and  gossip  with  Sayd  bin 
Salim,  259 ;  Kazeh,  a  myth,  260 ; 
leave  Kwikuru,  261 ;  in  comfort- 
able quarters,  262  ;  visit  from  the 
Tabora  Arab  magnates,  264  ;  Ta- 
bora,  chief  Arab  settlement  in  Cen- 
tral Africa,  266  ;  attend  a  council 
of  war,  267  ;  feast  at  the  close  of  the 
council;  return  to  Kwihara,  271; 
the  Livingstone  caravan's  halt  of 
100  days,  272  ;  attack  of  fever,  273  ; 
preparations  for  the  march,  275; 
warlike  demonstration,  277  ;  East- 
ern Mfuto,  illness  of  Shaw,  per" 
sonnel  of  th«3  army,  278 ;  Umanda, 


732 


INDEX. 


medicine  daubing,  war  harangue, 
280;  Zimbizo,  attack  on  the  vil- 
lage, 281 ;  fate  of  Soud  bin  Sayd 
and  his  Arabs,  283 ;  retreat  and 
stormy  councils  of  war,  284 ;  fur- 
ther retreat  of  the  Arabs  to  Tabora, 
288 :  serious  position  of  the  Expe- 
dition, 289 ;  intelligence  of  Living- 
stone, 290 ;  news  of  death  of  Far- 
quhar,  291 ;  illness  of  Shaw,  attack 
of  Mirambo  on  Tabora,  292; 
Khamis  bin  Abdullah,  &c,  slain, 
293;  preparations  for  Mirambo's 
threatened  attack  on  Kwihara, 
295 ;  visit  to  Sheikh  bin  Nassib, 
297 ;  retreat  of  Mirambo,  298 ; 
determination  to  lead  a  flying  ca- 
ravan to  Ujiji,  299 ;  apathy  of 
Shaw,  300 ;  visit  to  Thani  bin  Ab- 
dullah, arrival  of  letters,  301; 
death  of  Barusi,  evil  reports  by  the 
Arabs,  302;  present  of  a  boy- 
slave,  303;  defeat  of  Mirambo  at 
Mfuto,  304;  nursing  experiences, 
305 ;  farewell  feast  at  Unyanye- 
mbe,  307 ;  march  to  Ujiji  com- 
menced by  southern  route,  310 ; 
list  of  *'  braves  "  of  the  Expedition, 
311 ;  Bombay's  tender  passion, 
313 ;  the  start,  314 ;  Shaw  shows 
the  white  feather,  315 ;  Kinya- 
mwezi  village,  attack  of  fever,  316  ; 
arrest  of  runaways,  threat  of  slave- 
chain,  317 ;  Ineseuka,  further  de- 
sertions, punishment,  withdrawal 
of  Abdul  Kader  the  tailor,  318; 
sickness  in  camp,  adverse  appear- 
ances, 319 ;  Kasegara,  rejoicings 
at  319 ;  Kikandu,  Shaw's  by-play, 
320 ;  his  withdrawal,  321 ;  beauty 
of  Unyamwezi  forest  scenery,  322 ; 
Ugunda,  323;  Benta,  324;  Ki- 
kuru,  the  mukunguru  or  fever, 
325;  camp  at  Ziwani,  327;  gi- 
gantic sycamore,  328;  Manyara, 
cultivated  region,  331 ;  difficulty 
of  buying  provisions,  332 ;  visit  of 
Mtemi,  333;  his  astonishment  at 


the  author's  medicine-chest,  334: 
Gombe  River,  its  beautiful  neigh- 
bourhood, 336 ;  narrow  escape 
from  a  crocodile,  suspicious-looking 
natives,  339;  a  peaceful  camp- 
scene,  340 ;  symptoms  of  revolt  at 
starting  onwards,  343 ;  murderous 
aspect  of  Asmani  and  Mabruki, 
344 ;  Bombay  and  Ambari  in 
chains,  the  march  resumed,  sketch 
of  the  principal  men  of  the  Expe- 
dition, 348  ;  Ziwani  (pool),  water- 
less condition  of,  352 ;  Tongoni, 
abundance  of  honey-birds,  353; 
Marefu,  rumours  of  war  in  our 
front,  355  ;  march  through  a  forest 
abounding  with  peach-trees^  356 ; 
Utende  village,  356  ;  Mwaru,  357  ; 
supposed  report  of  Livingstone, 
Mrera's  district,  wild  elephants, 
358;  Selim  falls  ill,  359;  start 
from  Mrera  north-westward,  361 ; 
confidence  restored  in  the  camp, 
remarkable  ant-hills,  362  ;  camp 
in  the  jungle,  363 ;  embassy  from 
Simba,  364 ;  Uzavira,  ruined  neigh- 
bourhood of,  366 ;  Misonghi,  366 ; 
Mpokwa  River,  deserted  village 
near,  367;  Mtambu  stream,  its 
beauty,  368 ;  attack  by  a  leopard, 
369;  shot  at  a  wild  boar,  370; 
proximity  of  lions,  371 ;  Itaga 
village,  beginning  of  troubles,  373 ; 
shortness  of  provisions,  377 ; 
"  Welled  Nzogera's  "  village,  abun- 
dant supplies,  379 ;  crossing  a 
marsh,  380 ;  reach  the  Malagarazi, 
heavy  exaction  of  the  chief  Kiala, 
381 ;  island  of  Ihata,  fresh  de- 
mands for  ferriage,  382;  donkey 
seized  by  crocodile,  383 ;  Uvinza, 
news  of  Livingstone,  384 ;  depar- 
ture from  the  Malagarazi,  385; 
country  of  Uhha,  halt  at  Kawan- 
ga,  386 ;  halt  on  the  Pombwe 
stream,  388  ;  interview  with  Mion- 
vu,  389;  exorbitant  demand  of 
honga,  392;  cross   the  Kancngi 


INDEX. 


78S 


AlTfX,  39*  ?  11  ore  claims  of  honga, 
;  departure  by  stealth,  396 ; 
Kaneragi  River,  397 ;  cross,  the 
IfciaTLgi,  tA.'jiiAg  a  sable  shrew,  398  ; 
L&ke  Slusunya,  399;  Rugufu 
River,  Kalogo  Mountain,  singular 
-o'nenome'DOD  of,  400;  Sunuzzi 
stream,  401 ;  enter  Ukaranga,  402  ; 
beauty  of  the  landscape,  403; 
Mkute  River,  Niamtaga,  alarm  of 
the  people,  404 ;  first  view  of  the 
Tanganika,  406;  Port  of  Ujiji  in 
view,  407  ;  salute  announcing  the 
approach  of  the  caravan,  408 ; 
meeting  »vith  Susi,  the  servant  of 
Dr.  Livingstone,  409  ;  excitement 
of  the  inhabitants,  410;  appear- 
ance of  the  Doctor,  411 ;  the  intro- 
duction, 412;  conversation,  413; 
the  over-due  letter-bag,  365  days 
from  Zanzibar,  414 ;  budget  of 
news,  415;  intercourse  with  Li- 
vingstone, 420,  et  seq. ;  suggestions 
as  to  his  future  course,  477  ;  start 
with  Livingstone  for  cruise  on  the 
Tanganika,  479 ;  pass  Bangwe  Is- 
land, 479  ;  wooded  hills  of  Beniba, 
480 ;  camp  at  Niasanga,  482  ;  Ny- 
abigma  Island,  484 ;  Mukungu, 
486  ;  loss  of  valuables  from  Bom- 
bay's intoxication,  487  ;  hostile  de- 
monstrations of  the  Bikari  people, 
490 ;  bivouac  on  the  shore  disturbed 
by  natives,  491 ;  round  Cape  Sen- 
takeyi,  and  sleep  at  Mugeyo,  493  ; 
Magala,  hospitality  of  the  people, 
visit  of  the  Mutware  of,  494 ;  ru- 
mours of  wars,  494  ;  Kisiku,  native 
report  as  to  the  Rusizi  River,  495  ; 
Mugere,  delta  of  the,  496 ;  visit 
Mukamba,  attacked  by  fever  and 
experience  Livingstone's  tender- 
ness, 497  ;  Mugihewa  territory  on 
the  delta  of  the  Rusizi,  500  ;  visit 
of  the  chief  Ruhinza,  his  geo- 
graphical information,  501 ;  explo- 
ration of  the  Rusizi  debouchure, 
504;  Kukumba  Point,  enchanting 


scenery  near,  508  ,  halt  at  Bemba, 
superstition  of  the  Wajiji,  509: 
1  New  York  Herald  Islets,'  so  named 
by  Livingstone,  510;  Cape  Lu- 
vumba,  hostile  aspect  of  the  Wa« 
sansi,  511 ;  return  to  Ujiji,  domestic 
and  foreign  news,  515  ;  geographical 
and  ethnographical  notes,  514  et 
seq. ;  preparations  for  march  to 
Unyanyembe,  562  ;  attack  of  fever, 
564 ;  Christmas  Day  at  Ujiji,  565 , 
the  departure,  566 ;  meet  with 
Mohammed  bin  Gharib,  570;  Si- 
gunga,  beautiful  aspect  of,  574; 
sport,  at  Uriiiiba,  575,  homowanl 
bound,  576  et  seq.;  an  elephant 
herd,  581 ;  Ukawendi,  luxuriance 
of  its  vegetation,  584 ;  painful 
march  to  Imrera,  586  et  seq.;  a 
giraffe  shot,  593  ;  severe  attack  of 
fever,  the  Doctor's  prescription, 
594 ;  the  caravan  attacked  by  bees, 
595  ;  Mrera,  meeting  with  caravan 
sent  by  Sayd  bin  Habib,  exchange 
of  news,  596  ;  encounter  a  lion, 
600;  Ugundu,  the  deserter  Ham- 
dallah  retaken,  604 ;  receipt  of 
letters  and  newspapers,  605  ;  wel- 
come to  Unyanyembe,  607  ;  stores 
found  tampered  with,  610 ;  a  second 
Christmas  celebration,  611;  four 
years'  store  of  supplies  turned  over 
to  the  Doctor,  613  ;  commission  to 
enlist  at  Zanzibar  fifty  freemen  as 
his  carriers,  615  ;  farewell  dance  of 
natives,  620 ;  choragic  adieu  of  the 
Wanyamwezi,  621 ;  last  night  with 
Livingstone,  622 ;  the  last  walk  in 
his  company,  625 ;  the  farewell, 
627 ;  a  letter  from  the  Doctor,  628  ; 
Ngaraiso,  hostility  of  the  Wa- 
kimbu,  630;  Ugogo,  warlike  de- 
monstrations, 631 ;  march  of  war- 
riors arrayed  lor  the  fight,  632; 
Khonze,  determined  mode  of  deal- 
ing with  the  chief  successful,  633  ; 
Karryenyi,  cordial  reception  by 
the  Msagira   of,  634;  Mananga, 


734 


INDEX. 


hostile  demonstration,  636 ;  asked 
to  act  as  rain-maker,  637  ;  Kulabi, 
experience  of  a  "  peppo,"  638 ; 
Marenga  Mkali,  639;  Mukon- 
dokwa  valley,  experience  of  the 
Masika,  640;  Mauata  plain,  bat- 
tling with  the  floods,  641 ;  Mvumi 
village,  fighting  with  mosquitoes, 
641 ;  the  Doctor's  despatches  in 
danger,  642 ;  a  perilous  ford,  644 ; 
ten  days'  camp  at  Rehenneko,  diffi- 
culties of  the  march  to  the  Makata 
River,  645 ;  arrive  at  Simbo,  cross 
the  Unkerengere,  and  reach  Sim- 
bamwenni,  its  desolated  aspect, 
646 ;  Ulagalla,  extraordinary  de- 
vastation by  flood,  647;  Msuwa, 
horrors  of  its  jungle,  648  ;  Kingaru 
Hera,  news  of  the  Zanzibar  storm, 
649;  Rosako,  welcome  consign- 
ment from  the  American  Consul, 
649;  ill-natured  criticisms,  infor- 
mation as  to  the  "Livingstone 
Search  and  Relief  Expedition," 
660;  Kingwere's  ferry,  a  watery 
waste,  four  miles  broad,  651 ;  wel- 
come to  Bagamoyo,  652 ;  meeting 
with  Lieut.  Henn,  653 ;  introduc- 
tion to  Mr.  Oswald  Livingstone, 
655 ;  the  march  ended,  657 ;  wel- 
come at  Zanzibar,  the  American 
Consul  and  Rev.  C.  New,  658; 
congratulation  of  Lieut.  Dawson, 
discussion  as  to  his  resignation, 
599;  visit  from  Dr.  Kirk  and 
Bishop  Tozer,  662 ;  change  in  the 
author's  appearance  on  his  return, 
663 ;  conversation  with  Lieut. 
Henn,  664 ;  explanations  from  the 
He?  C.  New,  665,  et  $eq. ;  prepa- 
rations for  Mr.  0.  Livingstone's 
Expedition,  672 ;  his  resignation, 
373;  selection  of  an  Arab  leader, 
674 1  parting,  with  Lieut.  Dawson, 
674:  '"scussion  with  Dr.  Kirk  on 
the  misunderstanding  with  Living- 
stone, 675 ;  farewell  to  old  travel- 
og companions,  666  ;  departure 


froa.  Zanzibar  in  th«  'Africa,' 
677  ;  reach  Seychelles,  a  month's 
delay  at  Mahe,  agreeable  inter- 
course at  "Livingstone  Cottage," 
678;  arrival  at  Aden  and  Mar- 
seilles, 679 ;  a  few  remarks  as  tc 
the  English  Press,  679;  and  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  683; 
defence  of  the  English  Expedition 
against  the  censure  of  the  Council, 
689  ;  honor  rendered  to  the  author 
by  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
691 ;  award  of  the  Victoria  Medal, 
692. 

Sultan  bin  Mohammed,  209 

Sultan  of  Zanzibar,  Mr.  Stanley's  in- 
terview with,  37 

Sunuzzi  stream,  401 

Sunset  at  Ujiji,  magnificence  of,  539 

Susi,  Dr.  Livingstone's  servant,  409, 
498 

Swaruru,  Sultan,  196 
Sycamore,  gigantic,  327 
Syed  Burghash,  Sultan  of  Zanzibar, 
37,  38 

Tabora,  264 

Tagamoyo,  massacre  of  the  Wama- 

nyuema  by,  463 
Tamarind-trees,  525 
Tamarisks,  525 

Tanganika  Lake,  first  visit  to,  406 ; 

cruise  on,  with  Dr.  Livingstone, 

479  et  seq. 
Tarya  Topan,  integrity  of,  9,  37,  50 
Tembe,  the,  253 
Thani  bin  Abdullah,  266,  301 

 ,  Sheikh,  132 

Thata  Island,  382 
Tongoni,  353 

Tozer,  Bp.,  his  residence  at  Zanzi- 
bar, 5, 19  ;  his  character  and  High 
Church  practices,  19,  20  ;  his  con- 
gratulations at  the  author's  success, 
663 

Trade,  mode  of  conducting,  in  Africa. 
8 

Tsetse  fly,  87,  213,  330,  354 


INDEX. 


735 


Tu/a,  Eastern,  213;  Central,  214; 
Western  or  Tura  Perro,  215 

Udoe,  cones  of,  94 

 ,  picturesque  aspect  of,  and  war- 
like character  of  the  people,  240 

"  Uganga,"  or  charm,  106 

Ugombo,  Lake,  153,  231 ;  Peak,  156 ; 
Plain,  167 

Ugunda  village,  323 

Uhha  country,  geological  interest  of 
538  ;  king  of,  387 

Ujiji,  magnificence  of  sunset  at,  539 ; 
port  of,  407 

Ukaranga  territory,  its  beautiful  as- 
pect, 403,  539 

Ukawendi  country,  536,  537,  585; 
scenery  of,  375 

Ukonongo,  535 

Ukwere,  territory  of,  226 

Ulagalla  district,  113 

Ulimengo,  absconding  slave,  349, 592 

Unamapokera,  friendliness  of,  635 

Ungerengeri  Eiver,  105,  111,  123, 
647  ;  rise  of,  227  ;  Valley,  110 

U rundi  Mountains,  488 

Unyamwezi  forest  scenery,  beauty  of, 
322 ;  meaning  of  the  name,  516 ; 
territory,  213 

Unyambogi,  206 

Uplands  of  Africa,  health  and  abun- 
dance in,  234 

Urimba,  575 

Uronga  River,  230 

Urimba,  camp  at,  558 

Usagara  Mountains,  126,  143 

Useguhha,  territory  of,  226 

Utende  village,  356 

Uvinza,  Southern  and  Northern,  537 

Uwelasia  River,  575 

tJyanzi,  Magunda  Mkali,  or  "  Hot 
Field,"  257 

Uyoweh,  Mirambo  of,  267 

Uzavira,  village  in,  367 

Victoria  Medal  of  the  Royal  Geo- 
graphical Society  awarded  to  the 
author,  692. 


Wabembe,  or  Wavembe,  tribe  of  can- 
nibals, 555 

Waganga  or  medicine  men,  244  i 
filthy  war-potion  concocted  by,  295 

Wagogo  tribe,  249  ;  villages  cf,  214 

Wagtails  regarded  as  birds  of  good 
omen,  483 

Waguhha  tribe,  384 

Wagunda  tribe,  324 

Wahumba  tribe,  195 

"  Wait-a-bit"  thorn,  525 

Wajiji  tribe,  552  ;  superstition,  509 

Wakimbu  of  Tura,  rascality  of,  2.14 

 tribe,  208  ;  villages  of,  214 

Wakwere  tribe,  238 

Wakonongo,  339 

Wamanyuema,  fondness  of,  for  mar- 
keting, 463 

Wami  River  distinct  from  the  Kin- 
gani,  229  ;  available  for  commerce, 
233 

Wangwana  caravan,  108 
 village,  219 

 ■  tribe,  gormandizing  of  the,  342 

Wanyamwezi  tribe,  9,  197;  their 
superstitious  aversion  to  antelope 
meat,  366 ;  the  Yankees  of  Africa, 
540 

War,  council  of,  267 
Warfare,  tame  mode  of  conducting, 
495 

Wa-Ruga-Ruga,  354 
Warundi  tribe,  555 
W'iHawahili  tribe,  9,  237 
V,  aaansi  or  Basansi  tribe,  511 
Waseguhha  territory  and  tribe,  114, 
42 

Washenshi,  103,  104 

Wavinza  tribe,  385 ;  greed  of,  384 

Webb,  Capt.  F.  R.,  U.S.  Consul,  hia 

hospitaliiy  and  courtesy,  3, 12,  17, 

37 

 ,  Mr.,  of  Nowstead  Abbey,  451  • 

river  named  after  him,  451 
 ,  Mrs.,  40 

Wagogo,  cool  impudence  of  the,  85 

Whinde,  port  o',  225 

Wilderness,  African  more  favourable 


736 


INDEX. 


to  the  traveller  than  the  populated  | 

country,  205 
Wild-boar,  372 
Wilyankuru,  attack  on,  282 
Wine,  high  value  of,  in  the  interior, 

25 

I 

Zanzibar  city,  view  of,  from  the  bay, 
harbor, "  Charley's  "  lodging-house, 
3 ;  character  of  the  streets  and  po- 
pulation, trade,  "  Nazi-Moya,"  4; 
house  of  Bishop  Tozer,  mart  of  the 
interior,  mode  of  commerce  un- 
changed for  agc«,  5;  population, 


11 ;  filth  and  unhealthiness  of,  16. 

inertness  induced  by,  17 ;  Palace 

of  the  Sultan,  36 
  Island,  misconceptions  as  to 

its  character,  1 ;  its  aspect  from 

the  sea,  2 ;  malarious  climate,  16 
Zassi  River  and  village,  483 
Zebra,  338 

Zimbizo,  attack  on  the  village,  281 
Zimmerman  on  the  benefit  of  an  un- 
encumbered mind,  433 
Ziwa,  or  pond,  216 
Ziwani  (pool),  327,  352 
Zogga,  palm  toddy,  487 


DATE  DUE 


C  A.  V  LORD 

P*\  NT  EO  IN  U.S.A. 

DT351  S786  1891 

How  I  found  Livingstone;  travels  and 

llllliininil  ll,hn?!.°^al  Sem'^y-Speer  Library 


1012  00023  7968 


